Yuchol - You did a really great job on this video. You make all of the steps you take on a project very clear. Thank you! The date I am leaving this comment is June 6, 2023. Harbor Freight's price on the Pittsburgh Pro T-Handle Tap Ratcheting Wrench (SKU# 97633) is now $19.99. That cost is up just over 5% in the 3 years since you made your post.
Nice work. Sometimes we have to force ourselves not to settle for half-ass. Glad you made the second part with tighter tolerances. I also appreciate the tip on the Kodiak Cutting Tools.
It is good that some people will give credit where credit is due this guy did just that. I have seen so many others copping other projects and making out that they were the first to make something without giving credit to the other people.
Great Job Yuchol. Adding the last step of surface grinding really makes the difference in appearance. If i ever find a good deal close to home on a small surface grinder i'm gona try to get one. I also have one of the tap wrenches that you have thanks to you i went straight to Harbor freight that day and bought it. I have several things i have bought at H/F that i really do like. BTW Amazon prime is well worth my annual fee. I use them a lot. I tallied up the freight I have saved over the last 13 months minus the annual fee and I have saved over $1100 in freight alone. Plus i love the 2 day shipping. My dogs greet the UPS driver instead of barking at him now. LoL
I have to say I’m impressed! Thanks to Everett’s Workshop I came across your Channel. I have been looking for a good machine work shop. I have to say I have some catching up to do with your videos.
Gday, that’s a brilliant idea for a quill lock, the finish surface off the surface grinder is beautiful, wish I had one in my shop, maybe one day hopefully if I sweet talk the wife long enough, the squeaky wheel always gets oiled😜, awesome video as always mate thank you and I’ll be sure to check out Dudley tool right for the drawing, Cheers Matty
Considering that lathe would have been designed and built as at least a small light industrial machine it's surprising how badly they cut corners on that tail stock quill locking method Yuchol. Fwiw and it's surprising just how many don't know it, but keyless chucks AREN'T designed nor made for use with those reduced shank S&D type drills. And for good reason, it's because of there self tightening feature. As the drill diameter increases the torque on the shank within the chuck jaws obviously increases as well. When the shank tries to spin the internals are designed tighten up even more to prevent that.There's a few threads about what can happen on the PM General forum. The chuck will start to self tighten to where the internals begin deforming, and with a bad drill catch breaking through the material your drilling it can be severe enough to permanently lock it up and destroy the chucks internals. If your ever struggling to loosen any well made keyless by hand it's a sure sign your over stressing the chuck past it's design limits. Used within there limits a good keyless should never need anything more than hand torque to tighten or loosen them. So those reduced shank drills really need to be used with a keyed chuck or a collet.The same holds true when power tapping with them, I limit mine to about 3/8ths tap size as a maximum. Your drill chuck looks very much like the 3 integral shank keyless I bought from Glacern. I've had real good luck with mine and they compare quite well with the Albrecht I have for runout.
Nice modification! Often the top of the tailstock casting is convex so your top clamp (while milling) would have a tendency to wander (as it did). Some wood packing material may help next time. I have sometimes thought about milling-flat the top of the tailstock casting for mounting a digital caliper, depth measuring attachment. Flat, and parallel to the spindle. Another project when time is found.
I'd be interested to know if the quill moves side to side or up and down when the clamp is applied? I have a similar lathe and with the original clamp the tail stock alignment is changed when the clamp is applied.
Hola meu amigo excelente trabalho e projeto perfeito!Se o amigo permitir talvez eu use este modelo de aperto no meu torno caseiro (cabeçote móvel )Obrigado por compartilhar!João Carlos - Brasil!
I'm a little late to the party here. But would it have been possible to notch the corners with the pinch bolt so you wouldn't need as long a tap or clearance drill? Considering the function of this add on, I don't think it would affect the clamping force. Came out nice though.
not bad, my only issue with the new lock design is it does not bind the quill to the bore. in other words push any bore to quill clearance to one side an lock the quill rigid from up an down an side to side movement. ofcource the tool end of the quill is locked but the handle end can wobble around inside the bore. you may get tapers and off center from a center hole running work with tailstock support or between centers. the original design was awfull as you said. but wen it worked it did lock the assemble to itself. just a thought to think about.
No it doesn’t. I installed all of the tailstock tooling and measured when they were ejected when I retracted the quill prior to the project. With the plate being 1/2” thick, and I machined off about 1/8” of the tailstock, I still have about 3/8” room to play with. Of course your mileage may vary depending on the lathe. Thanks Chuck!
I had to go check my tool box to make sure that ratchet tap driver got the same one up here in princess auto lol As far as end mill in drill chuck i even use mine in drill chuck on lathe and even my kitten 🙀🙀🙀😹😹couldn't bear to watch ha ha
Im a beginner lathe operator and I would like to fix the tailstock bottom is wore so I welded the corner to bring it back true. Any suggestions on how I can make it better?
Hi there , I've been waqtching a bunch of your videos & wondering can you tell me about the sheet metal part you have on the top of the saddle on he chuck side ? thanks animal
it would have never worked properly. The cam lever action has such small operating radius, it wouldn't have allowed me to apply just the amount of force needed. This is a much better design. Thanks.
You really need to learn how to use the fine Kurt vise you have. How do you justify a 0.0005 fit with the quill and then turn around and use a hand drill to mount the clamp bracket?
Too late now, but wouldn't it have been relatively easy to make a new cylinder and key out of tool steel, in other words re-make the original pieces / design so that it would function correctly? The plate seems to work well, but it looks like it costs you 3/4 inch of quill travel.
Well done Yuchol. My tailstock just might be getting one of these too, even though it locks up fine with the lever it could be more secure with this method. What kind of surface grinder do you have there? Looks nice.
I have the same problem; plus the other lever for locking the tailstock is not positive either. So it moves no matter how tight I make it. Guess I am going to have to fix both of these maladies. Why do machine builders always leave us with these aggravations? Huh?
Between this and the carriage lock I'd say that lathe isn't worth buying. I have an inexpensive Grizzly gearhead about that size, and everything works as it should right out of the box
That type of lock is better than the cam style because it grips better and holds the barrel centered. The Chicago Lathe combo machine has a rather elegant version of this using a round split collar- easy to make with a readily available off the shelf item. They also have used the same concept to make the tailstock telescoping, allowing 10" of travel. www.chicagolathe.com
Watching this made me pull my hair out you are working on a lathe and have a mill why didn't you just make a new pin for the original lock instead of hacking up your lathe?
Yuchol - You did a really great job on this video. You make all of the steps you take on a project very clear. Thank you! The date I am leaving this comment is June 6, 2023. Harbor Freight's price on the Pittsburgh Pro T-Handle Tap Ratcheting Wrench (SKU# 97633) is now $19.99. That cost is up just over 5% in the 3 years since you made your post.
Nice work. Sometimes we have to force ourselves not to settle for half-ass. Glad you made the second part with tighter tolerances. I also appreciate the tip on the Kodiak Cutting Tools.
Thanks and you’re welcome!
Now to really finish it off, machine a step in rear to fit an "O" ring to prevent debris going between quill and bore.
Cold blue would look good!!
It is good that some people will give credit where credit is due this guy did just that. I have seen so many others copping other projects and making out that they were the first to make something without giving credit to the other people.
Have had that harbor freight tap handle for years, love it. Great vid.
One of the good tools they sell
I hadn't seen Stefan's video, but this should solve your slippage issue for sure. Came out looking good too!
Came out great. I use an endmill all the time that way.
Ah, thanks Randy
Great video and project. Nice work.
Thanks for sharing.
I need to get some of that precision depth indicator.
Thank you, I really appreciate the time and effort taken to make these videos.
Thank you Ryan. It takes a lot of extra time filming and editing but I enjoy sharing.
Great Job Yuchol. Adding the last step of surface grinding really makes the difference in appearance. If i ever find a good deal close to home on a small surface grinder i'm gona try to get one. I also have one of the tap wrenches that you have thanks to you i went straight to Harbor freight that day and bought it. I have several things i have bought at H/F that i really do like. BTW Amazon prime is well worth my annual fee. I use them a lot. I tallied up the freight I have saved over the last 13 months minus the annual fee and I have saved over $1100 in freight alone. Plus i love the 2 day shipping. My dogs greet the UPS driver instead of barking at him now. LoL
Don't apologize for any mistakes. I think as hobbyists we have the right to make mistakes. And also to put end mills in drill chucks.
Thanks, I feel better 😁
Neat way to fix the problem, plus it’s simpler than trying to fix the internal one
Thanks Jim!
Came out nicely ! I like your sense of humor ! Lol
Great job. I might do this also. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Dale!
I have to say I’m impressed! Thanks to Everett’s Workshop I came across your Channel. I have been looking for a good machine work shop. I have to say I have some catching up to do with your videos.
Thanks George for your kind words. I’m just a home hobbyist, glad to help in any way.
Nice project. Thanks for the kodiac tap info. Always looking for good taps
Thanks Craig
Great video. The finished product says it all.
Gday, that’s a brilliant idea for a quill lock, the finish surface off the surface grinder is beautiful, wish I had one in my shop, maybe one day hopefully if I sweet talk the wife long enough, the squeaky wheel always gets oiled😜, awesome video as always mate thank you and I’ll be sure to check out Dudley tool right for the drawing, Cheers Matty
Good luck with the wife 😁
Wow--that turned out great. Nice job!
...by the way, you ONLY gave that end mill axial loading in the drill chuck. You didn't apply any *transverse* load.
Nice touch with the surface grind, well done.
Thank you Steven!
Nice work. That's going to be a handy improvement, and made for a great project video.
Thanks Dale!
Nice job. We featured your video on our homemade tools forum yesterday :)
Thank you! I would love to post my videos there, but I was surprised to see the cost to join
Email me at jon at our url and I'll send you a code to join for free; looks like you're one of us :)
Since the tailstock has flat surfaces...suggest adding a digital caliper modification for depth measurement of quill extension
Oh man, it’s like you’re reading my mind. How do you do that Chuck?😳
That would have to be the most poxy tail stock lock i have ever seen , No wonder you changed it ! Cheers .
Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop. Poxy , learned a new Australian slang today 😁
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Hey we never stop learning !!! Cheers .
As usual great video. And who needs an automatic surface grinder when you can go that fast.
😂 so true!
Almost 2 k subscribers! You are doing good!
Thanks John, the channel is doing well
Considering that lathe would have been designed and built as at least a small light industrial machine it's surprising how badly they cut corners on that tail stock quill locking method Yuchol. Fwiw and it's surprising just how many don't know it, but keyless chucks AREN'T designed nor made for use with those reduced shank S&D type drills. And for good reason, it's because of there self tightening feature. As the drill diameter increases the torque on the shank within the chuck jaws obviously increases as well. When the shank tries to spin the internals are designed tighten up even more to prevent that.There's a few threads about what can happen on the PM General forum. The chuck will start to self tighten to where the internals begin deforming, and with a bad drill catch breaking through the material your drilling it can be severe enough to permanently lock it up and destroy the chucks internals. If your ever struggling to loosen any well made keyless by hand it's a sure sign your over stressing the chuck past it's design limits. Used within there limits a good keyless should never need anything more than hand torque to tighten or loosen them. So those reduced shank drills really need to be used with a keyed chuck or a collet.The same holds true when power tapping with them, I limit mine to about 3/8ths tap size as a maximum. Your drill chuck looks very much like the 3 integral shank keyless I bought from Glacern. I've had real good luck with mine and they compare quite well with the Albrecht I have for runout.
Turning Point thanks for the advice. The chuck is from Precision Matthews and I really like it.
Nice modification! Often the top of the tailstock casting is convex so your top clamp (while milling) would have a tendency to wander (as it did). Some wood packing material may help next time. I have sometimes thought about milling-flat the top of the tailstock casting for mounting a digital caliper, depth measuring attachment. Flat, and parallel to the spindle. Another project when time is found.
Thanks Jim. I put a 1/16” copper sheet on top of the tailstock, wasn’t enough
I'd be interested to know if the quill moves side to side or up and down when the clamp is applied? I have a similar lathe and with the original clamp the tail stock alignment is changed when the clamp is applied.
Would you believe it? The cheap Harbor Freight 7x10 metal lathe comes standard with this type of tailstock quill locking mechanism.
Really nice fit and finish.
Thanks you Joseph
Hola meu amigo excelente trabalho e projeto perfeito!Se o amigo permitir talvez eu use este modelo de aperto no meu torno caseiro (cabeçote móvel )Obrigado por compartilhar!João Carlos - Brasil!
I'm a little late to the party here. But would it have been possible to notch the corners with the pinch bolt so you wouldn't need as long a tap or clearance drill? Considering the function of this add on, I don't think it would affect the clamping force. Came out nice though.
Beautiful work!!!
Thanks Michael
Hard to believe the standard design is so crappy! great job as Usual Yuchol. Really enjoy your vids, From Sydney, Australia :-) P.s Love the PDI lol
Thank you sir!
Yes I discovered I have several rolls of PDI.
not bad, my only issue with the new lock design is it does not bind the quill to the bore. in other words push any bore to quill clearance to one side an lock the quill rigid from up an down an side to side movement. ofcource the tool end of the quill is locked but the handle end can wobble around inside the bore. you may get tapers and off center from a center hole running work with tailstock support or between centers. the original design was awfull as you said. but wen it worked it did lock the assemble to itself. just a thought to think about.
Not if the bore in the tailstock is a very tight fit which it is. Also, if you align the tailstock using the new design, there won’t be any tapers.
Enjoyed, nice build/upgrade....curious, does the addition of material on the front cause issues with tooling’s tapered shank from locking or ejection?
No it doesn’t. I installed all of the tailstock tooling and measured when they were ejected when I retracted the quill prior to the project. With the plate being 1/2” thick, and I machined off about 1/8” of the tailstock, I still have about 3/8” room to play with. Of course your mileage may vary depending on the lathe. Thanks Chuck!
Yuchol awesome fix. Don't worry Randy will forgive you.lol Have a blessed day!
Thanks Anthony 😆
Ryan my tail stock is in trouble . Tried to restored it. no luck. i took the quill out of the tail and now it will not o back go it. Can you help?
Clever idea Yuchol👌
Thanks Clarke!
I had to go check my tool box to make sure that ratchet tap driver got the same one up here in princess auto lol
As far as end mill in drill chuck i even use mine in drill chuck on lathe and even my kitten 🙀🙀🙀😹😹couldn't bear to watch ha ha
😁
Im a beginner lathe operator and I would like to fix the tailstock bottom is wore so I welded the corner to bring it back true. Any suggestions on how I can make it better?
Depending on your capability and tooling, but you can remove material at the bottom and add new material to build it back up.
It came out very nice.
Old Iron Machine Works thanks, I’ve been using it and it’s so much nicer. 👍🏼
Hi there , I've been waqtching a bunch of your videos & wondering can you tell me about the sheet metal part you have on the top of the saddle on he chuck side ?
thanks
animal
Laura, I share the details in this video, hope this helps th-cam.com/video/iIjYByxpkRg/w-d-xo.html
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 thanls
Great fix Yuchol!
Fix and an upgrade! Thanks Wayne
I like how you test the lock by trying to push the quill by hand lol...
What can I say, camera brings out the weirdness in you 😁
Great Video-Well Done!
Thanks Michael!
Why didn't you just make a new one of the internal pieces (with the weld on it) from brass or even steel?
it would have never worked properly. The cam lever action has such small operating radius, it wouldn't have allowed me to apply just the amount of force needed. This is a much better design. Thanks.
You really need to learn how to use the fine Kurt vise you have. How do you justify a 0.0005 fit with the quill and then turn around and use a hand drill to mount the clamp bracket?
Too late now, but wouldn't it have been relatively easy to make a new cylinder and key out of tool steel, in other words re-make the original pieces / design so that it would function correctly? The plate seems to work well, but it looks like it costs you 3/4 inch of quill travel.
Only 3/8". See his comment below.
Excellent job!
Thanks William!
hi good job
what is brand of your lathe?
Jet
Well done Yuchol. My tailstock just might be getting one of these too, even though it locks up fine with the lever it could be more secure with this method. What kind of surface grinder do you have there? Looks nice.
Thanks Kyle. It’s Brown & Sharpe Micromaster 612.
Woods Creek Workshop that’s a nice machine! I believe Lance Baltzey has a nice micro master in his shop as well.
Nice work!
Thanks Larry!
Nice job.
Thank you Mike!
Amezing 😍
Nice job
GREAT PROJECT !
Nice work.
Thanks!
Turned out nice...that factory lock was sad
Beyond sad 😫. Thanks man!
I’m telling Mr. Pete! Detention for you!
Very nice!
Ooòooooooo shiny ! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
nice job !
Thanks Jeffrey
OMG! You just voided the warranty on your lathe. 😜
Hill Top Machine Works their crappy design/work doesn’t deserve warranty 🤣. I want to see some new concrete soon!
Woods Creek Workshop its raining right now. ☹️
I have the same problem; plus the other lever for locking the tailstock is not positive either. So it moves no matter how tight I make it. Guess I am going to have to fix both of these maladies. Why do machine builders always leave us with these aggravations? Huh?
They figured we are bored and need things to do besides trying to take over the world
No Unicorns died! Haha
Between this and the carriage lock I'd say that lathe isn't worth buying. I have an inexpensive Grizzly gearhead about that size, and everything works as it should right out of the box
I wouldn’t go buy this lathe new today, there are a lot of better options out there.
That type of lock is better than the cam style because it grips better and holds the barrel centered. The Chicago Lathe combo machine has a rather elegant version of this using a round split collar- easy to make with a readily available off the shelf item. They also have used the same concept to make the tailstock telescoping, allowing 10" of travel.
www.chicagolathe.com
So true
The Kurt vise is more than large enuff the hold the tailstock. Dont use such a large cutter! Use a longer 6 flute end mill and light cuts!
Not "slipping" but "shifting".
🤣
well done.
Thank you Jim!
Watching this made me pull my hair out you are working on a lathe and have a mill why didn't you just make a new pin for the original lock instead of hacking up your lathe?
Because this is a better design. It’s OK to have preferences that are different than others
That's funny, I thought it was pronounced goat-tess-vean-tur. Live and learn!
Dahut I have 0% confidence that I am saying his name correctly 🤣
Another reason NOT to buy a Jet.
Almost looks Chinese!
Ryan my tail stock is in trouble . Tried to restored it. no luck. i took the quill out of the tail and now it will not go back in. Can you help?