i am doing the same thing , making a new quill to repair my damaged one , thank you for your time and effort and skill making posting this video, i watched if a few times over and its helped me so much in making doing the repair as i am just a so so with a lathe, watching you make one step by step was a great help, thanks so much from australia very much appreciated cheers mate
That was a very practical-useful video, that answered many things that I myself had been wondering about how to approach. Thanks Mike, and keep the videos comming!! I really enjoy them.
I've been thinking a bit about making a spindle, but was unsure of the best way to do the taper, this answered a lot of my questions! Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to part three.
MIke, excellent walk through on the taper. I have a Clausing 11 made by Harrison that needs a spindle adapter - you just showed me how to make it. Thanks! _Dan_
Nice job Mike, no probs with the voice over, I think sometimes guys try or compete with noisy machines and if they don't have personal microphones, it can sometimes be an issue. Many thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
I have watched the "Logic Trace" commercials a dozen times. I don't know about others but even though you are supposed to get some support from it I just don't want to see it again. OK, now I am interested in what you are doing very much. No problem concerning the mic: we are human. (Sorry about the commercial rant, I guess I could "stop seeing it" and see another). I appreciate your skill and patience, thanks, Greg.
THE IRONWORKER I always find my drills end up spinning in the taper of my machine, and not once did i think of doing that with grubscrews on the tang. Lol i will go and do that now. Best comment i have read yet lol thanks
hey Backyard MS, hope you have a minute or two to help me. I purchased an older heavy metal lathe. I am on a budget, not by choice. My issue is I have a morse taper 1 tailstock quill, also a morse taper 1 headstock hollow section. I want to start boring and turning and I am stuck here. I want a drill chuck, and center in the tailstock quill. Also a lathe dog + center in the headstock. I also have a 4in. 4 jaw chuck. So is MT1 on both sides a problem?? I see a MT1 - MT2 adapter on ebay. Should that cause me issues? I am looking for some strategic expertise on pros/cons of my few choices at my disposal. Sorry to sound like a big baby, I am stuck. I did everything else, just stuck here. I want quality. Thanks much, hope you can aid me somehow. --Joseph
if yo cut an half inch off the quill would close yup inside the tail stock and half inch which would look terrible, I also wanted to save the original. If I didn't the other alternative would be to make an adapter.
Mike, when you were roughing out the first part of the taper, would it be useful to turn a small circle on the face of the quill, as a witness mark, to give some idea of how far to bore the taper? If you did that, perhaps you wouldn't need to do all those trial fits of the M4 centre before you reach for that beautiful reamer. I don't know that it would save a lot of time, or even if saving time is important, because this is a process where results depend upon care, and as we all know, the faster you go, the wronger you can sometimes get. That's what happens to me, anyway. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs. Just sayin'...
You're able to focus more on what you're saying as well. When your speaking and working at the same time, you tend to loose focus. That could get you hurt if you weren't as experienced as you are.
Everytime I drill cast I get sugar. You're actually getting curly chips. Voice overs are fine. The music breaks the akwarness of dead air, but it should be pulled way back so it isnt competeing with your voice at all. Think of the music as white noise, it's not nessasary to comprehend it. Think of the music as giving contrast to your voice.
Mt4 = 2 degrees 58 minutes and 30 seconds.Why couldnt they make our life easyer and make it 2°or 3? Because of a cave man measuring system based on barley corn and some dudes foot lenght
Because standards,each company tried to implement their own design as a standard.In this case none of those old farts thought about putting a whole 2°,because it would be easy to produce -no lets make some wierd number that only particular company has machining setup set to do.Greedy money grabbing whores set the world back once again Just like whole world uses metric system and only america and other 2 small shitholes uses imperial . Why to have world universal standard that is easy for everyone to work with...
Btw hows the concentricity of your taper? For me problem with reaming on the lathe is that if your tail stock isn't aligned like 100% you can brake a reamer easy(smaller ones),or get a bigger hole. Also have you tried a valve grinding paste,thats what we usualy used on when joining ships axle and propellers. To finish and smooth the taper,just you need one hard metal,in upper example stainless steel shaft and soft one like bronze propeller.
Everything turned out fine!
Thanks for the reply
i am doing the same thing , making a new quill to repair my damaged one , thank you for your time and effort and skill making posting this video, i watched if a few times over and its helped me so much in making doing the repair as i am just a so so with a lathe, watching you make one step by step was a great help, thanks so much from australia very much appreciated cheers mate
That was a very practical-useful video, that answered many things that I myself had been wondering about how to approach. Thanks Mike, and keep the videos comming!! I really enjoy them.
thanks
I have only just now found your channel and I like what I see--keep the videos rolling..
Thanks for watching
I've been thinking a bit about making a spindle, but was unsure of the best way to do the taper, this answered a lot of my questions! Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to part three.
Thanks for the reply
MIke, excellent walk through on the taper. I have a Clausing 11 made by Harrison that needs a spindle adapter - you just showed me how to make it. Thanks!
_Dan_
I don't think anyone minds the voice over. I forget to turn my mic on all the time. I should start doing more voice overs myself. Regards, Solomon
I agree on the voice over
That tapper turned out good. Nice job!
Thanks
Nice job!
Thanks
good series. looking forward to part 3.
Thanks Emma,
Saludos fraterno desde Perú 🇵🇪 Dios te bendiga mucho
great video thanks for taking the time to make it
Thank you for watching
nice work mike
thanks
It looked a good fit 😊
Thanks for the reply
very interesting Mike thanks.
thanks for watching and leaving a comment
Good video thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
nice video Mike thanks
thank you kevin
Nice job Mike, no probs with the voice over, I think sometimes guys try or compete with noisy machines and if they don't have personal microphones, it can sometimes be an issue. Many thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thanks for watching
Why didn't you just ream the old quill?
I wanted to keep the old quill
Looking good. Keep machining.
Thank you for watching
I have watched the "Logic Trace" commercials a dozen times. I don't know about others but even though you are supposed to get some support from it I just don't want to see it again. OK, now I am interested in what you are doing very much. No problem concerning the mic: we are human. (Sorry about the commercial rant, I guess I could "stop seeing it" and see another). I appreciate your skill and patience, thanks, Greg.
I switched to you tube red a while back, it was a decision I thought I could do without but I am now glad I did
Maybe you should drill and tap some screw holes in the Quill where the mt4 tang will go to stop drill bits from turning Good Luck
I am considering doing that, However I will have to modify the screw to push out the taper
THE IRONWORKER I always find my drills end up spinning in the taper of my machine, and not once did i think of doing that with grubscrews on the tang. Lol i will go and do that now. Best comment i have read yet lol thanks
Does that lathe have a powered compound slide?
good job thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
hey Backyard MS, hope you have a minute or two to help me. I purchased an older heavy metal lathe. I am on a budget, not by choice. My issue is I have a morse taper 1 tailstock quill, also a morse taper 1 headstock hollow section. I want to start boring and turning and I am stuck here. I want a drill chuck, and center in the tailstock quill. Also a lathe dog + center in the headstock. I also have a 4in. 4 jaw chuck. So is MT1 on both sides a problem?? I see a MT1 - MT2 adapter on ebay. Should that cause me issues? I am looking for some strategic expertise on pros/cons of my few choices at my disposal. Sorry to sound like a big baby, I am stuck. I did everything else, just stuck here. I want quality. Thanks much, hope you can aid me somehow. --Joseph
Would you lap that for a final finish?
I have considered lapping or grinding
could you have say cut 1/2 inch off the old tail stock qull and then drill out the taper as you have just done. All the very best pete
the markings would be off ,other than that i thought the same .
Pretty sure he wanted to save the original so the machine could be put back to original if wanted.
if yo cut an half inch off the quill would close yup inside the tail stock and half inch which would look terrible, I also wanted to save the original. If I didn't the other alternative would be to make an adapter.
Good Video, I do Like the DRO on your Lathe , What's the make. Cheers.
The Kingston has a Newell, the Monarch has a Sino
Mike, when you were roughing out the first part of the taper, would it be useful to turn a small circle on the face of the quill, as a witness mark, to give some idea of how far to bore the taper? If you did that, perhaps you wouldn't need to do all those trial fits of the M4 centre before you reach for that beautiful reamer.
I don't know that it would save a lot of time, or even if saving time is important, because this is a process where results depend upon care, and as we all know, the faster you go, the wronger you can sometimes get. That's what happens to me, anyway.
Not trying to teach you to suck eggs. Just sayin'...
I considered doing just that, However using a plug was just as easy
voice overs are better anyway. Less background noise.
I think I like them better
You're able to focus more on what you're saying as well. When your speaking and working at the same time, you tend to loose focus. That could get you hurt if you weren't as experienced as you are.
the voice over is better ! The music is too loud though !
Thanks Wayne I like the voice over better, and I am working my audio editing
Everytime I drill cast I get sugar. You're actually getting curly chips. Voice overs are fine. The music breaks the akwarness of dead air, but it should be pulled way back so it isnt competeing with your voice at all. Think of the music as white noise, it's not nessasary to comprehend it. Think of the music as giving contrast to your voice.
Mt4 = 2 degrees 58 minutes and 30 seconds.Why couldnt they make our life easyer and make it 2°or 3? Because of a cave man measuring system based on barley corn and some dudes foot lenght
Why couldn't they just used Jarno tapers
Because standards,each company tried to implement their own design as a standard.In this case none of those old farts thought about putting a whole 2°,because it would be easy to produce -no lets make some wierd number that only particular company has machining setup set to do.Greedy money grabbing whores set the world back once again
Just like whole world uses metric system and only america and other 2 small shitholes uses imperial .
Why to have world universal standard that is easy for everyone to work with...
Btw hows the concentricity of your taper?
For me problem with reaming on the lathe is that if your tail stock isn't aligned like 100% you can brake a reamer easy(smaller ones),or get a bigger hole.
Also have you tried a valve grinding paste,thats what we usualy used on when joining ships axle and propellers.
To finish and smooth the taper,just you need one hard metal,in upper example stainless steel shaft and soft one like bronze propeller.