Mate, your ability to turn an inexpensive Chinese mini lathe into a precision machine tool in unparalleled. I've been a big fan since your first videos upgrading this lathe. Proper job, much respect.
Very well done! I once did a very similar repair to a machine where the Tailstock weights about as much as the whole lathe here. Minus the glue part, heated up the casting and slid in the cooled sleeve and screwed it in place, completely eliminated the play in it too. Really awesome job!
When you bored out the tailstock body to take the insert you could have made a facing tool to fit the boring bar and faced off the tailstock body as a final operation with the boring bar, it would have saved you the trouble you went to with the grinder and probably more accurate as it would be at right angles to the bore you cut.
A nice alteration to eliminate the play, but the downside is the block on the end is completely unnecessary and is in fact a detriment to the tailstock. Because unless the quill is being replaced by a longer one you are now going to loose the drilling depth capacity by the thickness of that block.( unless you have extra capacity in the feedscrew, or make a new one to restore that capacity) And a tip for you, when using engineers blue for determining contact places, you used about ten times the amount needed. You only need a tiny spot and then rub it over the surface with a rag (or your finger if you don't mind it being blue for a week) just revolving your block around will show the high spots. Too much blue will result in false positives as the thickness of the blue film exceeds the depth of the difference in touching and non touching surfaces.
I remember these old skills when I was a young man in engineering so nice to see them still being used. I think with the modern world these skills are being lost whishing you the best in the future.
That was all through exceptionally well done and the touch with the reground masonry drill as a scraper is just genius - I had initially thought the grinders, even used delicately as you did were - AHEM - crude - I was wrong to rush to judgement
Very nice! I’m considering getting a mini lathe as a hobby- your videos really make me think a simple lathe can be upgraded to very precise and useful tool, and the upgrade process seems like part of the fun to me. I’m not a production shop, and there is a sale on some of these locally for me. The temptation has never been stronger haha
Don’t do it. Seriously. It requires a lot of work, dedication, time, and often, other machinery, as well as experience. He’s doing this to have content for his channel.
@ lol yeah, I realize that. I have a wood shop and I turned a bedroom into a specialized lutherie workshop.. no stranger to G.A.S. (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) 😂😂
I've had my 7x10 quite a long time and done several upgrades but still watch every upgrade video for them when I come across them That was very neat fix, now I feel I have to check tailstock barrel fit even though I rarely use it (short bed so most of the time it's on sheff)
At 2:00, you have 2 intersecting holes for boring bits, then you have 2 more intersecting holes, was there a dimensioning error? Did you use both sets of holes to complete the boring process?
This makes me think that perhaps buying a better lathe in the first place would have been the wiser choice. However, doing the work that should have been done in the factory was not only fun but, entertaining as well. Proving once more that anything made in China will be of tofu dreg quality at best. Your desing and workmanship is remarkable. What is really nice is that it can be upscaled to larger machines, too.
If you're willing to pay the appropriate price you will get plenty of high quality machines made in china. These small home workshop lathes and milling machines are built to a price bracket that ensures they are affordable for the hobbyist. Colchester quality lathes are available from Chinese manufacturers but not for peanuts prices....you get what you pay for every time.
The price of an import machine is added to the frustration. The important thing in one video, is the “bird’s nest” of chips that can and does get caught and whipped around the work and slash your hands and fingers. One got me years ago and made me look like the loser in a fight with a tiger. From that point I have kept a pair of cheap extended handle long nose pliers.
That’s not true. China makes some fine goods and machinery. But when someone goes looking for the cheapest products, that’s what they will get. We used to make a lot of total garbage here too, but other countries began producing equal low quality at lower prices and so a lot of our junk companies went out of business. Back in the day, South Bend, Atlas and a few others made “home shop” lathes that were pretty expensive and few could afford them. The base model South Bend 9” would, in today’s dollars, cost close to $5,000. And that’s with change gears, the simplest one. How many people who are willing to buy a decent Chinese model from better companies such as Precision Mathew or Grizzly would pay that for an equivalent size model? No one! So a lot of people would be locked out of the hobby. Same thing with mills and other equipment. So get real.
At 0:20, seconds to 45 seconds ... What are you doing? Are you measuring the inner diameter by experimentation? Are you comparing the slug you made to the actual tailstock telescoping tube at 45sec? Thanks for making this video and presenting this idea!
At 4:45, Why did you select steel vs brass or bronze? I'm not trying to be critical, I'm just trying to understand your decisions made vs other possible decisions. I desperately need to do something like this to my lathe! Thanks for this video!
At 2:45, Why did you not use the tailstock to bedway clamping bolt to help steady the boring process? Won't actually clamping the tailstock to the bedway during use, actually change the center height vs your repair height?
It is not possible to make an accurate boring this way, so I bored a little more and used epoxy glue, and positioned it with the quill clamped in the chuck.
Ah, yes - the angle grinder scraper... Among all the lesser known equipment, that is the king of precision work... Tho, jokes aside, i have seen a dude make a smithing anvil and grind it flat with a flap disc to the point where literally 0 light passed under a straight edge across the whole surface, and he checked it like an engine block - star pattern straight edge inspection method... Now, it is likely not absolute perfection, but that dude managed better with a flap disc than most modern parts are from the box - made with what is supposed to be precision machinery... The bore bushing seemed a bit wonky in that hole, not a sausage down a hallway scenario, but in machining terms - might as well be the same... Better than OEM offered, but wobble is still wobble... I would have cylinder hone-d it to fit, both the tstock bore and the bushing bore for the quill, just to make it a perfect fit... Hell, the tstock bore fit could have even been interference fit - the slightest of interference fits, literally the ``same size`` id as od, requiring just a bit of torch to heat up the tstock bore as to receive it - no real stress on the material and a guarantee of a rigid and precise fit for quill... You could also have added a hydraulic seal groove in that bushing, as well as a groove for the oiler felt wick behind that, just for sealing the bore and for additional lubrication... Otherwise, a nice idea and definitely a good start... Tho, that tailstock casting itself looks so fucking offensively bad in design that one can hardly think of an insult fitting the mind that spawned it... I would consider snagging a chunk of iron and just remaking the whole thing if i had one of these import lathes... You can get nice rectangular, quite big 20kg cast iron weights that are ideal size for such machinery... Hell, one could take 2 of those and remake the headstock and tailstock to generate some nasty rigid components, so much so that the bed would suddenly be one of the lightest large components of the whole system... Those weights ain`t the best iron, but they won`t crack, and once machined well - they will offer a shitload of solid mass to whatever they have been turned into... I actually considered doing so with my minila(not an import, but not skookum either) - just mill and lap in the ways geometry into the bottom of the weight, line-bore it and fit the bearings - it could have 4 bearings as to support both the spindle and the drive system independently as to negate any lateral loads from the belt tension(quite akin to oldie-goldie lathes from the good old days)... But i refrained - for now... Anyways, enough essaying... Kind regards and best wishes! Steuss
instead of facing the end of tailstock with grinder and Dremel - you could have simply ground a facing tool bit from HSS square lathe bit, to use in the align boring tool you fabricated.
i done it much simpler and faster, with similar results maybe even better. you measure difference between inner and outer diameter divide by 2 and chose a sheet shim that fit, for me was 0.05mm sheet. so i wrap the tailstock round piece in shim foil put epoxy on it then put it back in the tailstock then fix it in place with the screw and the chuck. let it cure then everything was align and snug fit, no machine at all. i used stainless steel shim sheet.
Find a used small industrial machine such as a Colchester Bantam or a Boxford. I had a 1970s Colchester Chipmaster. I paid £400 for it. Used it for 20 years and built 4 live steam locomotives, 2 - 7.25, 1 5in &1 3.5 in gauge.
Ha ha, I just snug down a little bit on the quill lock😊 but then again my tail stock quill doesn’t have near as much slop as that one. I got a 1995 grizzly.
acest tip de alezare,este utilizat in primul rand la fabricatie ,si nu doar la reparatie.nu vad sistemul de reducere a jocului dintre elementul fix si cel mobil.se vede doar surubul de blocaj....
Если уже так решили делать. Вставку надо обязательно изготавливать из чугуна. И при расточке задней бабки её (бабку) надо обязательно нагружать че-то тяжелым, т.е. положить сверху груз от 10кг.
Any Chance you could add 100000% more interest and value by narrating whats going on .....please Jimmy Diresta needs a beat down for starting the silent youtube maker genre
@badjuju6563: I was able to follow every move he made and why he was making them. Frankly, there's too much blather (and pointless music) in videos like this. I suppose a compromise would be to add a few _necessary_ subtitles.
@@tcarney57 OK then, At 0:20, seconds to 45 seconds ... What is he doing? Is he measuring the inner diameter by experimentation? Is he comparing the slug he made to the actual tailstock telescoping tube at 45sec?
you measured off of different points in the before and after, once on the center drill and once on the quill, this makes any comparison impossible. from what i can visually see, it looks like there isn't really much improvement in the backlash, with a lot of it coming from the morse tapers.
At 0:12 and 20sec you can visually see the excess deflection, then at 12:50, you almost can not measure the deflection, let alone "SEE IT". This is a massive improvement whether he measured it 'Before and After' properly or not! It LOOKS and MEASURES just fine for the purpose at hand.
Mate, your ability to turn an inexpensive Chinese mini lathe into a precision machine tool in unparalleled. I've been a big fan since your first videos upgrading this lathe.
Proper job, much respect.
This is the best repair of a factory defect on the tail stock of this mini-lathe, I’ve literally ever saw.
Awesome job.
Thank you
Literally lol.
Very well done!
I once did a very similar repair to a machine where the Tailstock weights about as much as the whole lathe here.
Minus the glue part, heated up the casting and slid in the cooled sleeve and screwed it in place, completely eliminated the play in it too.
Really awesome job!
Ok
When you bored out the tailstock body to take the insert you could have made a facing tool to fit the boring bar and faced off the tailstock body as a final operation with the boring bar, it would have saved you the trouble you went to with the grinder and probably more accurate as it would be at right angles to the bore you cut.
A nice alteration to eliminate the play, but the downside is the block on the end is completely unnecessary and is in fact a detriment to the tailstock. Because unless the quill is being replaced by a longer one you are now going to loose the drilling depth capacity by the thickness of that block.( unless you have extra capacity in the feedscrew, or make a new one to restore that capacity)
And a tip for you, when using engineers blue for determining contact places, you used about ten times the amount needed. You only need a tiny spot and then rub it over the surface with a rag (or your finger if you don't mind it being blue for a week) just revolving your block around will show the high spots. Too much blue will result in false positives as the thickness of the blue film exceeds the depth of the difference in touching and non touching surfaces.
I remember these old skills when I was a young man in engineering so nice to see them still being used. I think with the modern world these skills are being lost whishing you the best in the future.
Ok
nicely done , and good to see you making videos again after a long time
Thank you! I will try to make videos more often
What helped me was to install 2 safety razor blades into the gap between the tailstock housing.😏Good job! Like!
Top marks. Now I know why I break so many centre drills. 👍👍👍👍👍
Really well done! Enjoyed the video and your approach to the wobbly tailstock problem :) Thanks for sharing! I will take this for inspiration;)
thank you very much
That was all through exceptionally well done and the touch with the reground masonry drill as a scraper is just genius - I had initially thought the grinders, even used delicately as you did were - AHEM - crude - I was wrong to rush to judgement
Very nice! I’m considering getting a mini lathe as a hobby- your videos really make me think a simple lathe can be upgraded to very precise and useful tool, and the upgrade process seems like part of the fun to me. I’m not a production shop, and there is a sale on some of these locally for me. The temptation has never been stronger haha
Don’t do it. Seriously. It requires a lot of work, dedication, time, and often, other machinery, as well as experience. He’s doing this to have content for his channel.
@ lol yeah, I realize that. I have a wood shop and I turned a bedroom into a specialized lutherie workshop.. no stranger to G.A.S. (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) 😂😂
Beautiful job ! Well done !!!!
I've had my 7x10 quite a long time and done several upgrades but still watch every upgrade video for them when I come across them
That was very neat fix, now I feel I have to check tailstock barrel fit even though I rarely use it (short bed so most of the time it's on sheff)
Ok
At 2:00, you have 2 intersecting holes for boring bits, then you have 2 more intersecting holes, was there a dimensioning error? Did you use both sets of holes to complete the boring process?
This makes me think that perhaps buying a better lathe in the first place would have been the wiser choice. However, doing the work that should have been done in the factory was not only fun but, entertaining as well. Proving once more that anything made in China will be of tofu dreg quality at best. Your desing and workmanship is remarkable. What is really nice is that it can be upscaled to larger machines, too.
If you're willing to pay the appropriate price you will get plenty of high quality machines made in china. These small home workshop lathes and milling machines are built to a price bracket that ensures they are affordable for the hobbyist.
Colchester quality lathes are available from Chinese manufacturers but not for peanuts prices....you get what you pay for every time.
The price of an import machine is added to the frustration. The important thing in one video, is the “bird’s nest” of chips that can and does get caught and whipped around the work and slash your hands and fingers. One got me years ago and made me look like the loser in a fight with a tiger. From that point I have kept a pair of cheap extended handle long nose pliers.
@@robertqueberg4612are you saying it will be the fault of the company that made your car if you get into an accident driving carelessly ?
That’s not true. China makes some fine goods and machinery. But when someone goes looking for the cheapest products, that’s what they will get. We used to make a lot of total garbage here too, but other countries began producing equal low quality at lower prices and so a lot of our junk companies went out of business. Back in the day, South Bend, Atlas and a few others made “home shop” lathes that were pretty expensive and few could afford them. The base model South Bend 9” would, in today’s dollars, cost close to $5,000. And that’s with change gears, the simplest one. How many people who are willing to buy a decent Chinese model from better companies such as Precision Mathew or Grizzly would pay that for an equivalent size model? No one! So a lot of people would be locked out of the hobby. Same thing with mills and other equipment. So get real.
At 0:20, seconds to 45 seconds ... What are you doing? Are you measuring the inner diameter by experimentation? Are you comparing the slug you made to the actual tailstock telescoping tube at 45sec? Thanks for making this video and presenting this idea!
At 4:45, Why did you select steel vs brass or bronze? I'm not trying to be critical, I'm just trying to understand your decisions made vs other possible decisions. I desperately need to do something like this to my lathe! Thanks for this video!
I didn't have a suitable bronze blank
Because it's a movie star lathe, like difference between Rambo and Stallone.
Steel will resist wear better thn bronze or brass.
Wow lovely
Great work
Precision 👍🏼
At 2:45, Why did you not use the tailstock to bedway clamping bolt to help steady the boring process? Won't actually clamping the tailstock to the bedway during use, actually change the center height vs your repair height?
It is not possible to make an accurate boring this way, so I bored a little more and used epoxy glue, and positioned it with the quill clamped in the chuck.
Sorry, I can't explain everything through Google Translate
@@hammerland4028 At 12:30, I see that now, Thanks.
Why the four Allen head bolts AND epoxy? Wasn't the fit that good?
Great video! Got so many usefull ideas from it!
Very nice solution, bravo!
Very nicely done! 👍
Nice job...it turned out really well👌
very useful tecnique
Thanks for sharing
Congratulations! Nice job!
Sehr gute idee,und super umgesetzt👍👍
Couldn't You have Bored or Honed it out enough to press in a 360 Degree Stainless Steel Shim?
Nice work, I will check mine later to see how bad it is😂
Nice little upgrade.
Ah, yes - the angle grinder scraper... Among all the lesser known equipment, that is the king of precision work... Tho, jokes aside, i have seen a dude make a smithing anvil and grind it flat with a flap disc to the point where literally 0 light passed under a straight edge across the whole surface, and he checked it like an engine block - star pattern straight edge inspection method... Now, it is likely not absolute perfection, but that dude managed better with a flap disc than most modern parts are from the box - made with what is supposed to be precision machinery...
The bore bushing seemed a bit wonky in that hole, not a sausage down a hallway scenario, but in machining terms - might as well be the same... Better than OEM offered, but wobble is still wobble... I would have cylinder hone-d it to fit, both the tstock bore and the bushing bore for the quill, just to make it a perfect fit... Hell, the tstock bore fit could have even been interference fit - the slightest of interference fits, literally the ``same size`` id as od, requiring just a bit of torch to heat up the tstock bore as to receive it - no real stress on the material and a guarantee of a rigid and precise fit for quill...
You could also have added a hydraulic seal groove in that bushing, as well as a groove for the oiler felt wick behind that, just for sealing the bore and for additional lubrication...
Otherwise, a nice idea and definitely a good start... Tho, that tailstock casting itself looks so fucking offensively bad in design that one can hardly think of an insult fitting the mind that spawned it... I would consider snagging a chunk of iron and just remaking the whole thing if i had one of these import lathes... You can get nice rectangular, quite big 20kg cast iron weights that are ideal size for such machinery... Hell, one could take 2 of those and remake the headstock and tailstock to generate some nasty rigid components, so much so that the bed would suddenly be one of the lightest large components of the whole system...
Those weights ain`t the best iron, but they won`t crack, and once machined well - they will offer a shitload of solid mass to whatever they have been turned into... I actually considered doing so with my minila(not an import, but not skookum either) - just mill and lap in the ways geometry into the bottom of the weight, line-bore it and fit the bearings - it could have 4 bearings as to support both the spindle and the drive system independently as to negate any lateral loads from the belt tension(quite akin to oldie-goldie lathes from the good old days)... But i refrained - for now...
Anyways, enough essaying...
Kind regards and best wishes!
Steuss
Pretty cool idea. I supposed you could have bored straight thru and just re-sleeved. Nice work.
instead of facing the end of tailstock with grinder and Dremel - you could have simply ground a facing tool bit from HSS square lathe bit, to use in the align boring tool you fabricated.
A pergunta é: pra que tanta precisão no contraponto se o restante do equipamento não tem nenhuma precisão? 🤔 É muito tempo gasto...
świetna robota 👍👍
Dziękuję!
Power scrapping!
Very nice work sir
Bravo excellent job
i done it much simpler and faster, with similar results maybe even better.
you measure difference between inner and outer diameter divide by 2 and chose a sheet shim that fit, for me was 0.05mm sheet. so i wrap the tailstock round piece in shim foil put epoxy on it then put it back in the tailstock then fix it in place with the screw and the chuck. let it cure then everything was align and snug fit, no machine at all. i used stainless steel shim sheet.
very nice work!
Главное результат 👍👌
Нормальный такой люфт😮 смотрим.
Muy bueno , gracias 😊
Find a used small industrial machine such as a Colchester Bantam or a Boxford.
I had a 1970s Colchester Chipmaster. I paid £400 for it. Used it for 20 years and built 4 live steam locomotives, 2 - 7.25, 1 5in &1 3.5 in gauge.
Ha ha, I just snug down a little bit on the quill lock😊 but then again my tail stock quill doesn’t have near as much slop as that one. I got a 1995 grizzly.
You completed a good job. But it was a risk.
Зачем брать дорогие станки, а потом их доробатывать??? И ещё неизвестно что получится...
Well done!
El comentario no lleva ninguna carga semántica, sirve de apoyo al canal y agradecimiento al Autor.
acest tip de alezare,este utilizat in primul rand la fabricatie ,si nu doar la reparatie.nu vad sistemul de reducere a jocului dintre elementul fix si cel mobil.se vede doar surubul de blocaj....
Now you can spend a month getting all of the slop out of the carriage, gearing and lead screw.
Nice ❤❤❤
Если уже так решили делать.
Вставку надо обязательно изготавливать из чугуна. И при расточке задней бабки её (бабку) надо обязательно нагружать че-то тяжелым, т.е. положить сверху груз от 10кг.
Nice
А ведь всё просто решается, там есть винт который убирает люфт пиноли
Ты крут, чувак.
Merci !!!
You big silly, you just showed all these people that its ok to grab chip nests with your bare hands!
Можно было просто с натягом выточить и поставить
❤
time to to some sketchy shit do da, do da
Any Chance you could add 100000% more interest and value by narrating whats going on .....please
Jimmy Diresta needs a beat down for starting the silent youtube maker genre
I only know Ukrainian and Russian languages
@badjuju6563: I was able to follow every move he made and why he was making them. Frankly, there's too much blather (and pointless music) in videos like this. I suppose a compromise would be to add a few _necessary_ subtitles.
@@hammerland4028 Твоя третя мова - машинобудування. Переклад не потрібен.
This was fairly easy to follow. Anything I had questions about was answered by subsequent steps.
@@tcarney57 OK then, At 0:20, seconds to 45 seconds ... What is he doing? Is he measuring the inner diameter by experimentation? Is he comparing the slug he made to the actual tailstock telescoping tube at 45sec?
you measured off of different points in the before and after, once on the center drill and once on the quill, this makes any comparison impossible. from what i can visually see, it looks like there isn't really much improvement in the backlash, with a lot of it coming from the morse tapers.
At 0:12 and 20sec you can visually see the excess deflection, then at 12:50, you almost can not measure the deflection, let alone "SEE IT". This is a massive improvement whether he measured it 'Before and After' properly or not! It LOOKS and MEASURES just fine for the purpose at hand.
0:12 and 12:47, what is your point
@@Omsip123 I think his point is that he can only feel better by trying to make other people feel worse.
@@Gottenhimfella hahaha.. nice one, I need to remember that!
shity Chinese tools always need modify
Cheap chinese crap.