A clean lathe ( after use) is a happy lathe. I can not tolerate dirty machinery or tools, even if i.e. two hours of cleaning upon completion is required to have total chip free and lightly oiled following a project . That means EVERY day after use, no exceptions.
I’m really glad that I stumbled across your series of machining video’s. You did a great job re-engineering the poor design of your lathes carriage stop. I’m gonna take a peek at mine and make some changes. You got another subscriber with me. Thanks
That Carriage Lock turned out nice. Great Job Doc. I don’t know if you’re also a Surgeon, but if you are. It seems like being able to Machine things would be a advantage for you. I always like your Videos. Great Job.👍
Yuchol, A neat solution to a common problem. Sorry to be nit picky but I think I would use the term universal joint rather than swivel which is more for fishing also using the die manually to finish your thread won't allow the rod to fully seat, a better method is to use a thin parting or grooving tool to make a relief and then it will pull up to a shoulder with no gap. Great work but your lathe seems almost too clean!
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 well you can come and shoot a video at mine any time (as long as you clean up first! but it has been in 40°c+ on several days and there is fire ravaging the SE of the country but at least 3 hours from here).
Very nicely done, however,🤔, I think I would remove the remainder material from the block that extends beyond the carriage because it is only going to catch a lot of crap that you will have to clean off frequently. It will also look a lot cleaner with the excess removed. What a beautiful lathe, will you share with us the brand? I think it would look a lot better sitting in my shop than it does in yours. LOL... Wonderful job, I look forward to all of your video's, thank you for sharing.
Hi Richard, I may end up cutting off the excess, but the length helps with the anti-rotation when I tighten/loosen. The lathe is Jet GH-1340W. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏻
Nice job, good video. Now I have yet another project! You may as well cut off the block protruding from the saddle, there is no grip advantage and beside looking unsightly it will collect crap, and we like a tidy lathe, don't we...both. Envious of your chuck. Doing good work.
Well David, I am one of those that clean down and oil my lathe at the end of the day, almost always. Couple of reasons, but one really Big one is it lives 50m from salt water and will rust like a bitch if I don't!
Yuchol, very nice job. That new clamp looks like what should have come with the machine! I'd get rid of the "ledge" that you left. It's almost certainly going to collect swarf which will then be pulled in between the ways and the clamp surface. A most Happy New Year to you and your family! 새해 복 많이 받으세요
I made a similar lock for my lathe. I used one of the wiper holes to fit a stop to prevent the lock lever going back too far and contacting the tail stock.
I have found that most times when cutting tapers i get a better finish cutting from the thickest to thinnest, in your case left to right rather than right to left, I thinks its something to do with the angle the tool tip is to the work an not necessarily the shape of the tool. On your straight line cut it looked like a chrome finish. I need to do something like this as at the moment i have a sawn off alen key to fit under my dro scale and it either keeps falling off or interfears with the tailstock. I was thinking i might have enough room to do it upside down so the clamp handle is on the underside and using one of those movable handle things like i have on my mill table stops.
Yuchol, Happy New Years, be safe! On my lathe the lock wasn’t working so I added a copper shim up where the block contacts the bottom of the bed rail. Now it works very well.
Hey Yuchol. Just a tip from me. When roughing like at 3:00, instead of taking small depth bites at full width, take small stepover bites at full or 1/2 depth. Your endmills will last a lot longer.
Nice job! A small suggestion, if I may. Use a ball peen hammer if you have one rather than a claw hammer for hitting punches and chisels. Claw hammers are (supposed to) have hardened faces, and are intended to hit soft iron and wood. You can spall off slivers from the face of the hammer hitting hard stuff. Ask me how I know. They can burrow into flesh real easily when they come off at speed.
That is a lot neater than my locking knob. IHMO it is a modification well done, especially on lathes that use an allen screw or a square head bolt. The only difference I would have done is instead of welding the lower stud togheter I would have locktited it with bearing mount locktite (green) it would have been just as secure and saved some extra machining
Yuchol, your projects inspire me. I watched this three times to see if you used cast iron for your block. I could not determine what you used. Material softer than your ways should be used when contact of the piece is at issue. Did you consider using a double lead screw or triple lead screw? The handle would of course require only half the arc movement that a single thread would require.
I like this project. I would want not to pull on the outside under edge of the way. Clearance the clamping finger so it's pulling up further under. A radius or a dowel pin laying in a slot would be killer. I love you eliminated the forces bending the bolt. Very smart. A more course or double start thread would be a great way to limit the arc of the handle. At the expense of losing some tightening force. Meh, probably fine as is.
could you, for example, add the same clamp to the back rail, and a 'chain drive' from front to back, to allow for more clamping force, and symmetrical across the cross slide... just an idea?
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 rofl! That's too simple! I couldn't tell if the ratcheting part was a separate tool from a regular tap wrench. Thanks so much!
So would you recommand buying a « PRECISION Matthews lathe? I saw you rebuilt your gear box because the bearing were’nt good anymore and now the brake on the carriage. When you buy a piece of equipment that expensive, I beleive you wan’t it to work properly.
I’m working on my atlas lathe and want to get rid of the loose wrenches on the carriage lock and the tailstock lock. You just showed me the detail I was looking for. 3/8-16 bolt or stud. 1/4 turn from loose to tight. Thanks, John
My .02c regarding the short taper surface finish - your lead angle and relief on the insert were also WAYYY off compared to what you used on the body and that lead angle and relief will have a lot to do with cut quality and finish. I've found that making sure the angle is appropriate to the material AND specific insert type makes all the difference in the world. Edit: missed the 'cheap insert' comment, but the following can still apply. Also, is it a generic insert? Or one with a coating and geometry for the metal your cutting? I've completely gotten away from generic/multipurpose inserts for all operations besides heavy roughing.
Drill rod in its annealed state isn't very special. I once made from drill rod a sleeve with a hole on the side to replace the worn-out one on my scissor jack where the handle inserts. The hole quickly became sloppy. I made another but this time hardened and tempered it and it has lasted very well. Important lesson learned!
@@davidwillard7334 It taught me that if carbon steel isn't hardened, it's no better than mild steel, and that if I ever go searching for my heart's desire again, I won't look any further than my own backyard; because if it isn't there, I never really lost it to begin with.
My carriage lock doesn't bend, but it doesn't get really tight either. When I mod'ed mine I wondered if they make them weak on purpose so that if you have it on and engage the longitudinal power feed you don't break something.Your handle really turned out great.
The lathes at my school had role pins, and at least once a semester someone would hit the power feed with the carriage locked and the pin would shear, the manufacturer put them in a spot it took 2 people about 25 minutes to get the new role pin in.
Nice work, Yuchol 😊. Love them tap and die holders. Think I'm going to have to upgrade now, those look awesome! 😁 Glad your handle positioning worked out, best of luck to you in 2020 as well 😃! Thanks for the share!
You probably dont care at all but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Ty Alejandro Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I think those Lenze VFD's are limited to 10khz anyway, so it probably wouldn't help (I can still hear 10k). I see in their user manual that they want you to derate the drive at higher carrier frequencies as well. I use Teco and Fuji, and I don't recall that being mentioned. They're newer designs, and are probably using faster IGBT's.
Good video !!1 Thank you very much !!! I am very interested in the tip support, retractable, mounted in the milling spindle that you use to hold the tap, is it self-made? Or can you advise me where to buy it? Thanks in advance, Alberto from Italy !!
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I'm installing one now. Only subtle things have changed in all these years. The castings have never changed. I wanna see how you did the cross slide. My apron lock is in a real shitty location. This is no fun.
It's nobody's business but your own and how clean you keep your equipment. Clean machinery last longer. Nice machinery. What brand of la tathe are you running? It looks very professional. LjN
I was hoping that I'd get a good understanding of how to fix mine. But it seems like your lathe and mine are slightly different. (Mine is "broken" because some idiot currently responsible for the maintenance thought it was a good idea to pull the bolt out, and the locking plate iteself fell out - where it sits is completely impossible to reach - and yes, the idiot is me! :) )
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Not your fault. I shouldn't have taken the bolt out in the first place. Good job on the lock design. I did something similar to make a holder for a dial indicator on attaching to the ways.
Nice job Yuchol . perhaps a 45 on the top of the part thank sticks out from the apron for swarf to fall off , not that there is swarf on your lathe often , Happy New Year , Cheers Ade.
Tell me about that die holder at 12:53! Did you make it? I saw a video where a guy made one th-cam.com/video/bq2NtnbViF4/w-d-xo.html -I hope it has a tang that will lock it from turning in the taper.- No I guess it just floats. Can it hold taps, too? I had to tap a bunch of parts yesterday and held an 18mm tap in the drill chuck and let it drag the tailstock. It worked well until the tap became dull and the tailstock wanted to rock and the parts would slip in the chuck.
It just rides on the rod that goes into the tailstock. Your hand acts as a clutch. Just let go. It won’t hold a tap, you use the drill chuck and tailstock for that
Yuchol Wait ! Stop the show ! Tell me about that awesome Tap Wrench you are using . That is a got to have ! Okay Action start the camera rolling again.
Nice job, Yuchol. I agree with the commenter who suggested cutting the block back flush. And--if wear changes the lock position, check out these indexing handles.. www.mcmaster.com/6271k71 Happy New Year to you and yours.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
A clean lathe ( after use) is a happy lathe. I can not tolerate dirty machinery or tools, even if i.e. two hours of cleaning upon completion is required to have total chip free and lightly oiled following a project . That means EVERY day after use, no exceptions.
I’m really glad that I stumbled across your series of machining video’s. You did a great job re-engineering the poor design of your lathes carriage stop. I’m gonna take a peek at mine and make some changes. You got another subscriber with me. Thanks
Thank you 🙏🏻
I like your presentation style. Right to the point and no excess blah, blah, blah.
I sure do like your equipment. I’m drooling over the chuck you dog.
Nice work sir!
Thanks Jeff. It was an open box deal on eBay, worked out for me, but even with a big discount it’s expensive. But it’s repeatability is awesome 😁
That Carriage Lock turned out nice. Great Job Doc. I don’t know if you’re also a Surgeon, but if you are. It seems like being able to Machine things would be a advantage for you. I always like your Videos. Great Job.👍
Good Idea. I will make one of those for my lathe. Because of of the DRO installed on the cross feed, it has blocked access to the original lock bolt.
Go for it!
@@davidwillard7334 you're one dedicated troll
Yuchol. I thought i had subscribed long ago but the Tube said no, so i resubscribed and liked. Thanks for the video!
Norm in Arizona
Yuchol,
A neat solution to a common problem. Sorry to be nit picky but I think I would use the term universal joint rather than swivel which is more for fishing also using the die manually to finish your thread won't allow the rod to fully seat, a better method is to use a thin parting or grooving tool to make a relief and then it will pull up to a shoulder with no gap.
Great work but your lathe seems almost too clean!
Hi Michael, I try to clean up before I film, so I get that comment a lot 😁
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 well you can come and shoot a video at mine any time (as long as you clean up first! but it has been in 40°c+ on several days and there is fire ravaging the SE of the country but at least 3 hours from here).
Just a tip from me to you. you should lock the carriage when parting. Great video
Now the carriage lock is fixed I can
Very nicely done, however,🤔, I think I would remove the remainder material from the block that extends beyond the carriage because it is only going to catch a lot of crap that you will have to clean off frequently. It will also look a lot cleaner with the excess removed. What a beautiful lathe, will you share with us the brand? I think it would look a lot better sitting in my shop than it does in yours. LOL... Wonderful job, I look forward to all of your video's, thank you for sharing.
Hi Richard, I may end up cutting off the excess, but the length helps with the anti-rotation when I tighten/loosen. The lathe is Jet GH-1340W. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏻
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 If it fits, just tap another hole to the right to make the block flush with the carriage.
Great build, great video.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice job, good video.
Now I have yet another project!
You may as well cut off the block protruding from the saddle, there is no grip advantage and beside looking unsightly it will collect crap, and we like a tidy lathe, don't we...both.
Envious of your chuck.
Doing good work.
Thanks Carl!
Well David, I am one of those that clean down and oil my lathe at the end of the day, almost always.
Couple of reasons, but one really Big one is it lives 50m from salt water and will rust like a bitch if I don't!
Yuchol, very nice job. That new clamp looks like what should have come with the machine! I'd get rid of the "ledge" that you left. It's almost certainly going to collect swarf which will then be pulled in between the ways and the clamp surface. A most Happy New Year to you and your family! 새해 복 많이 받으세요
Nice! Thanks Jim, happy new year!
Nice project, Yuchol. I learned a good bit in this video!
John Hicks thanks John
I made a similar lock for my lathe.
I used one of the wiper holes to fit a stop to prevent the lock lever going back too far and contacting the tail stock.
Good idea!
Nice job. Problem is, now we all have to make one. Thanks for the video, JB San Diego
I don’t see a problem 😁
Very nice design on the parts. Very nice.
Hi Glenn, thank you!
I have found that most times when cutting tapers i get a better finish cutting from the thickest to thinnest, in your case left to right rather than right to left, I thinks its something to do with the angle the tool tip is to the work an not necessarily the shape of the tool. On your straight line cut it looked like a chrome finish.
I need to do something like this as at the moment i have a sawn off alen key to fit under my dro scale and it either keeps falling off or interfears with the tailstock. I was thinking i might have enough room to do it upside down so the clamp handle is on the underside and using one of those movable handle things like i have on my mill table stops.
Hi Derek, I waited too long to do this, overthinking. Thanks for stopping by and good luck on yours!
Nice job, well done and thanks for posting!
Good job. I'm sure there are a few modifications to do on any new lathe like making new handles from brass just to make it look good
That’s so true!
Yuchol, Happy New Years, be safe! On my lathe the lock wasn’t working so I added a copper shim up where the block contacts the bottom of the bed rail. Now it works very well.
That’s a neat trick! Happy new year my friend!
Bruce here:liked your approach and the way you went about it job well done.what brand of lathe do you have, thanks.
Great Job-Now I’ve Got To Build One!
Michael Rosenlof do it!
Nicely done. Happy New Year!
Thanks Bruce, happy new year to you!
Hey Yuchol. Just a tip from me. When roughing like at 3:00, instead of taking small depth bites at full width, take small stepover bites at full or 1/2 depth. Your endmills will last a lot longer.
Thanks!
Nice job!
A small suggestion, if I may. Use a ball peen hammer if you have one rather than a claw hammer for hitting punches and chisels. Claw hammers are (supposed to) have hardened faces, and are intended to hit soft iron and wood. You can spall off slivers from the face of the hammer hitting hard stuff. Ask me how I know. They can burrow into flesh real easily when they come off at speed.
That was a ball peen hammer
Happy New Year early there Yuchol. Here’s to a super 2020.
Happy new year to you also, thanks for your support! 🙏🏻
I like your pipe frame. For your camera and lights?
Thanks. It’s for mounting the camera, clamps on the pipe and can be moved easily.
That is a lot neater than my locking knob. IHMO it is a modification well done, especially on lathes that use an allen screw or a square head bolt. The only difference I would have done is instead of welding the lower stud togheter I would have locktited it with bearing mount locktite (green) it would have been just as secure and saved some extra machining
Thanks Jim. Happy 2020!
Damn, now I have to add another project to my "to do" list. Good job Yuchol. You done good. Hope you and yours have a happy and safe New Year.
Thanks Robert, happy 2020!
Great video. Happy new year buddy.
Thanks Dale 👍🏼
Yuchol, your projects inspire me. I watched this three times to see if you used cast iron for your block. I could not determine what you used. Material softer than your ways should be used when contact of the piece is at issue. Did you consider using a double lead screw or triple lead screw? The handle would of course require only half the arc movement that a single thread would require.
Gordon Brown thanks Gordon. I used mild steel for the block. The contact surface on the bed is only rough machined. It’s working out great. Thanks!
I like this project. I would want not to pull on the outside under edge of the way. Clearance the clamping finger so it's pulling up further under. A radius or a dowel pin laying in a slot would be killer. I love you eliminated the forces bending the bolt. Very smart. A more course or double start thread would be a great way to limit the arc of the handle. At the expense of losing some tightening force. Meh, probably fine as is.
It’s so easy to overthink this, that’s why it took me so long to get it done. I just said screw it and knocked it out 😁
Lovely job. 👍
could you, for example, add the same clamp to the back rail, and a 'chain drive' from front to back, to allow for more clamping force, and symmetrical across the cross slide... just an idea?
You could, but it’s not necessary. Just the front is plenty
At 12:20, anyone know the name of that ratcheting tool he uses to cut the threads, please? Thanks! Keep up the great work, Yuchol!
It’s called ratcheting tap wrench from Harbor Freight, made in Taiwan.
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 rofl! That's too simple! I couldn't tell if the ratcheting part was a separate tool from a regular tap wrench. Thanks so much!
So would you recommand buying a « PRECISION Matthews lathe? I saw you rebuilt your gear box because the bearing were’nt good anymore and now the brake on the carriage. When you buy a piece of equipment that expensive, I beleive you wan’t it to work properly.
If I was buying a new lathe today, I would get one of the Taiwanese by Precision Matthews
I’m working on my atlas lathe and want to get rid of the loose wrenches on the carriage lock and the tailstock lock. You just showed me the detail I was looking for. 3/8-16 bolt or stud. 1/4 turn from loose to tight.
Thanks,
John
Thanks John, glad it helps 👍🏼
Enjoyed this. What model lathe is this?
Ross Dugan Jet GH-1340W
Woods Creek Workshop thanks, I have a south Bend heavy 10 and have been keeping my eyes peeled for a larger lathe.
Ross Dugan there are many options hat are better and cheaper than mine. Look at Precision Matthews, especially ones made in Taiwan.
Nice work.
Thank you
My .02c regarding the short taper surface finish - your lead angle and relief on the insert were also WAYYY off compared to what you used on the body and that lead angle and relief will have a lot to do with cut quality and finish. I've found that making sure the angle is appropriate to the material AND specific insert type makes all the difference in the world.
Edit: missed the 'cheap insert' comment, but the following can still apply. Also, is it a generic insert? Or one with a coating and geometry for the metal your cutting? I've completely gotten away from generic/multipurpose inserts for all operations besides heavy roughing.
Thanks for the tip. The insert there was a cheap Chinese inserts that I am using up. Already have major brand inserts in stock ready to go!
Looks great . You havn't worn any of the paint of the lathe yet ! Have a great new year mate , Cheers .
Thanks, happy new year to you my friend!
@@davidwillard7334 Yuchol has a deal going with Aaron from Always Sunny In The Shop , They buy their Canuba Wax in bulk !!!
Gday, I really like the tap wrench, it’s a great idea, the carriage lock turned out really good, thanks for another great video mate, Matty
Thank you Matty!
Drill rod in its annealed state isn't very special. I once made from drill rod a sleeve with a hole on the side to replace the worn-out one on my scissor jack where the handle inserts. The hole quickly became sloppy. I made another but this time hardened and tempered it and it has lasted very well. Important lesson learned!
Yeah you have to harden it for a that sort of application.
@@davidwillard7334 I was a kid in school. I had no money! It actually worked fine and It taught me a good lesson.
@@davidwillard7334 It taught me that if carbon steel isn't hardened, it's no better than mild steel, and that if I ever go searching for my heart's desire again, I won't look any further than my own backyard; because if it isn't there, I never really lost it to begin with.
It's from the Wizard of Oz- th-cam.com/video/LT12WuZb_DU/w-d-xo.html
love it - got to do mine now - tailstock too
Yet *ANOTHER* reason not to buy JET. Yuchol, I owe you so much for helping to make up my mind LOL.
I'll take a JET over a mini lathe!
Love your work, I will have to lift my game.
Thanks!
I really like your projects great ideas for the home shop
Thanks!
Very nice work sir
I think the surface finish goes bad on the taper due to the turning insert angle of attack and clearance.
My carriage lock doesn't bend, but it doesn't get really tight either. When I mod'ed mine I wondered if they make them weak on purpose so that if you have it on and engage the longitudinal power feed you don't break something.Your handle really turned out great.
My lathe has clutches on both the feed screw and the threading screw and I'm sure you do also. It's working out well so far. Thanks!
The lathes at my school had role pins, and at least once a semester someone would hit the power feed with the carriage locked and the pin would shear, the manufacturer put them in a spot it took 2 people about 25 minutes to get the new role pin in.
Nice job
Happy New Year
Thanks Vernon!
Nice work, Yuchol 😊. Love them tap and die holders. Think I'm going to have to upgrade now, those look awesome! 😁 Glad your handle positioning worked out, best of luck to you in 2020 as well 😃! Thanks for the share!
Wishing you an awesome 2020!
Man Jet dropped the ball on the ole carriage lock. Good upgrade.
Jet isn’t what they used to be, cut too many corners
Another great video and a nice upgrade for your lathe. Happy new year. Cheers, Mike
Happy new year!
You probably dont care at all but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Elijah Crosby instablaster ;)
@Ty Alejandro Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ty Alejandro It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
That's an interesting tapping handle and it ratchets. Who makes that?
Harbor Freight, but it’s made in Taiwan, not China.
Great work!
What is that sweet ratcheting tap tool?
It’s a ratcheting tap wrench from Harbor Freight, made in Taiwan. Works well, around $17.
U got to train your grip strength...
Nice work by the way.
Fajny pomysł .A jak sie spisuje uchyt polski Bison-Bial
Nice job, Yuchol. Have you considered increasing the carrier frequency on your VFD to stop it from whining?
Hi Jon, I did experiment but found it to be pretty quiet in person and didn’t pursue it further. Maybe I am used to it? 🙄
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I think those Lenze VFD's are limited to 10khz anyway, so it probably wouldn't help (I can still hear 10k). I see in their user manual that they want you to derate the drive at higher carrier frequencies as well. I use Teco and Fuji, and I don't recall that being mentioned. They're newer designs, and are probably using faster IGBT's.
I will look at the manual again. I can ask Stan at Bar Z too since he uses a lot of the same drive for work. Thanks for the tip.
May I ask, what lathe do you have there?
Jet GH1340W and I don’t recommend it. Look at Precision Matthews if you’re buying new.
Good video !!1 Thank you very much !!! I am very interested in the tip support, retractable, mounted in the milling spindle that you use to hold the tap, is it self-made? Or can you advise me where to buy it? Thanks in advance, Alberto from Italy !!
It is spring-loaded tap follower and I made it, but they are commercially available too.
Any division of a 1/16 will work....187,.312,.062,.125 many more.
Yup
Looks good, and much more solid of a lock. Nicely done!
Thanks Everett!
Great job!
18:09 The tool is the "Rule" you are the "Ruler" :-)
That’s right!
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Isn't the "Better Half" the "Ruler" in most situations, lol?
You are dead right Everett
What model of lathe do you have?
Hi Bruce, the lathe is Jet GH-1340W. Thanks!
I like it but, I am at a loss as to why you are cutting external threads with a die when,you have quick change gearbox
Hi James, for a 5/16” thread, it was much quicker with a die especially with the special die holder I made. Thanks.
I just love to cut threads from 1/4x28 up..It’s gratifying.🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video
Are you going to stick a DRO on that thing?
worldtraveler funny you ask, I just finished installing couple weeks ago 👍🏼
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I'm installing one now. Only subtle things have changed in all these years. The castings have never changed. I wanna see how you did the cross slide. My apron lock is in a real shitty location. This is no fun.
worldtraveler I hope to have a video out soon
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 cool, get to work on it. Or come help install mine🍺
Great job ! Love your way of explaining , looking forward to more videos from you. Subbed!
Thank you so much!
Good job. Happy New Year 2020
Thanks Doug, happy 2020!
It's nobody's business but your own and how clean you keep your equipment. Clean machinery last longer. Nice machinery. What brand of la tathe are you running? It looks very professional. LjN
Thank you. The lathe is Jet GH-1340W
Nice carriage lock. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
I was hoping that I'd get a good understanding of how to fix mine. But it seems like your lathe and mine are slightly different. (Mine is "broken" because some idiot currently responsible for the maintenance thought it was a good idea to pull the bolt out, and the locking plate iteself fell out - where it sits is completely impossible to reach - and yes, the idiot is me! :) )
Sorry man
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Not your fault. I shouldn't have taken the bolt out in the first place. Good job on the lock design. I did something similar to make a holder for a dial indicator on attaching to the ways.
Nice work!
Thanks William
Thank you for sharing, good job, and very nice video, have a good day.
Thanks!
Nice project
Thanks Craig!
Cold blue the ball end.
It’s aluminum 😁
Nice job Yuchol . perhaps a 45 on the top of the part thank sticks out from the apron for swarf to fall off , not that there is swarf on your lathe often , Happy New Year , Cheers Ade.
Thank you Ade! Happy new year, may your shop see an awesome new milking machine 😁
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Thanks Yuchol. you had me totally baffled then until i realised it was a typo . I want a milking machine now lol. Cheers Ade
ADES WORKSHOP dumb autocorrect. 😆
I just had to clean my lathe . given you a shout on my latest vid as you inspired me to do it . not as clean as yours but much nicer. Cheers Ade.
Ah, such a nice chap! Thank you my friend!
So Harbor Freight. Who would have guessed.
Exactly
That truly was a great job, keep up the great video's
Thank you Richard! 🙏🏻
Happy New Year Yuchol great video. We need to meet in the next couple of weeks.
Bill from Monroe
Sounds good, just message me!
Thank You that was cool !! mods that you can do for your self !! and share
Thanks Chris!
Tell me about that die holder at 12:53! Did you make it? I saw a video where a guy made one th-cam.com/video/bq2NtnbViF4/w-d-xo.html -I hope it has a tang that will lock it from turning in the taper.- No I guess it just floats. Can it hold taps, too? I had to tap a bunch of parts yesterday and held an 18mm tap in the drill chuck and let it drag the tailstock. It worked well until the tap became dull and the tailstock wanted to rock and the parts would slip in the chuck.
It just rides on the rod that goes into the tailstock. Your hand acts as a clutch. Just let go. It won’t hold a tap, you use the drill chuck and tailstock for that
Nice lock came out great. Scale. Nice scribe. Nice Tap wrench. Come and clean my lathe.
I’ll be right there 😏
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Sweet. I now have pink eye. I love my grandkids, they are carrier's.
Randy Richard In The Shop I am literally bed-ridden now. Sucks being sick. At least God gave you 2 eyes so you can use the other eye
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I have it in both eyes, this is meserrible. Can't even see to type.
Randy Richard In The Shop then you’re screwed
What brand and model of lathe is that.
Jet GH-1340W
Happy New Year Yuchol. I really enjoyed the video. Nice work. And wishing you a great 2020. Gary
Thanks Gary, wishing you a fabulous 2020! 🤞🏻
Very cool!
Thanks Brandon!
Yuchol Wait ! Stop the show ! Tell me about that awesome Tap Wrench you are using . That is a got to have ! Okay Action start the camera rolling again.
Hi Terry, believe it or not, that tap wrench is from, get ready for this, Harbor Freight, and it’s made in Taiwan, not China 😁
Nice work, thank you.
Thanks Ray, 🙏🏻
Nice job.
Thank you.
Wish you a creative 2020.
Thanks my friend, same to you!
People mentioned your lathe was clean have super dirty lathes .
great work loll
Nice job, Yuchol. I agree with the commenter who suggested cutting the block back flush. And--if wear changes the lock position, check out these indexing handles.. www.mcmaster.com/6271k71
Happy New Year to you and yours.
Hi Joe, thanks and happy new year to you! 👍🏼
Свистеть дома нельзя,черти заведутся
Интересная фраза
I have an almost identical lathe. Great idea! thanks!
Thanks Darren!