Spot on directions. Nice job. I have and do install tons of metal roofs. The biggest things I do along with these is to lath the roof, not only to level but to make sure I know what i am screwing into. If you screw into a place where two pieces of plywood are connecting, you create a whole in your panel that you have to caulk. Lots of shortcuts can and are taken with roofs. Knowing what you are doing and why you are doing it is the biggest thing in my opinion.
I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .
Standing seam good system .I always ad more clips at bottom and top .you should be ok with that .to figure you're pans to see were you and up width of pan with eighth of inch grow rate
Great points. Reducing the number of penetrations in your roof is always a good idea. One of the points I was trying to make in this video was that spending a bit more time on the details will save you big trouble in the long run.
Au Crunk he’s obviously a non-union roofer. No red-tape, coffee breaks, or drinking at lunch. Just a quick, helpful video that didn’t go 500% over budget. 🤣
It’s awesome that you get strait to the point and help folks such as myself who’s about to install and 26 gauge delta rib metal roof on a 6/12 roof because I would have shit the bed…. Thanks again
I argued for that til I was blue in the face. That was the way it was done. You will not find a contracter or supplier that recomends screws in the ridges today.
I put a steel roof on my house 13 years ago & followed the advice I listed previously. You are right, it's important to take the time to make sure the penetrations are sealed well.
me too in my country we used corrugated galvanized iron roofing and the fastener has to be in the ribs or top of the curve portion not on the flat to prevent from leaking so easy. When install the Galvanized roofing correctly your roof stay longer even your grand children can benefit it
I was taught to put the screws in the top of the ridge, and use the backers that fill the gaps of the ridges. However, the backers fit for a while, but get off due to not being as accurate as the panels are. A pure waste of time! With freezing and thawing, hot and cold the metal eventually gave way and the panels did not hold. Now, I've seen screws in valleys before, and I've put some in valleys when necessary, along with silicone caulk. If I recall he said you could put sealant on before you put the screw in. This is what I will be doing with the small roof job I'm doing. Pre-drilling holes is a great way to keep all screw holes evenly spaced (I'm a fanatic about screw/nail lines and spacing). I believe when installed properly, the valley will actually be better in the long run. To each his own! I know that by putting a bead of silicone caulk between the top and bottom ridge, and under each screw hole will make a huge difference in how long the roof will last.
i was a roofer for about 10 yrs. i put the screws through the ribs. i also installed foam backer or other insulation barriers. i used 2 1/4" metal screws with a poly washer. no leaks. and i know many of these people that I've roofed for. no leaks. he is right about the silicone and plenty of screws for flashing. still more than i use. those roofs i did are around 17-19 yrs old now.
So much discussion on where to put the screws. You have two types of screw, you have roof to roof deck screws (these are fairly long), and you have stitching screws (short and thicker). Both have a rubber gasket or seal. The long screws go on the flat part of the roof. This makes for a solid connection. If the long screws are used on the top of the rib, over time they work thier way loose. The short screws are used to hold the panels together and do not go through the roof deck. Hope this helps.
I caught one mistake in the video, make sure to pre drill your screw holes reason for that is when you run your screw through with out it being pre drilled it makes the metal around it sharp and will tear your washer on the screw and makes it look neater because all the screws are perfectly even
Notes for me 1. Lapping panel. Fat lip diwn first, cover with short lio showing when done 2 do not over tighten screw... Place in flat place Ensure nut driver works well Caulk is secondary waterproofing Place caulk underneath shielded from sun Over hang only up to 2" Pvc pipe flashing Many screws Sealant under base of boot
I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.
Hey dude the screws go in the high ribs. (Screws 2-2.5 “ long with neoprene washers) .This also allows for slight movement from expansion and contraction on cloudy days. You will hear pinging on cloudy days. I have laid hundreds or tons of steel over 40 years(leadhead nails long ago).they are all still ok.
So I just looked at my roof and the screws are on the flats . Then I looked it up and most sites say put the screws on the flats . But a whole lot of sights say as the washers age and the roof moves having the washers on the high ribs will prevent leaks and that's kind of what a roof is for !
I live in Monroe County in Florida we have hurricane standards we screw four inches up from the bottom drip edge and then every 8 inch accordingly on the female and the male ribs. As well as in the middle of the panel this guarantees secure system, that has been proven on many occasions to withstand category 4 hurricanes. These standards across Monroe County are the strongest and most coherent in the country being that we do have hurricanes these systems wouldn't work unless there's at least a slope of 3 degrees pitch as so water won't pool from standing water. The Fasteners were not designed to be submerged under water. Anything with less than a 3 degree pitch involves a totally different other system and Hardware.
Lots of arguments about putting screws in flats or ribs. I've installed a lot of metal roofs. NEVER had a leak! If you put a hole in a piece of metal you create a place for it to leak.... I always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart. On perimeter we do put screws in the flats on 8" spacing to hold edges down which keeps wind from getting under the metal. Never had a leaker and never had a roof blow off. Two points I absolutely agree with in this video... pipe flashing technique and lapping edges... long edge on bottom.
Randy Jacks In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and still going strong after paint jobs and inspection ( these were done before us in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the height of the corrugated for free. If you put them in the low spots you do not have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in low spots get in the way of ***serviceability**** and leak when you have to go on the roof years later when you have to go up and do repairs. Keep in mind that you may have to paint it in 40 or so years depending on conditions. ***You will have to reset screws with washers in a **-much much-** shorter period of time before that if you are in the low spots, but it is of little concern if on the high spots.**** I've seen roofs from 1955 that have bare nails on the high spots that are backing out and weep a bit and I had to go up and replace them with screws but the southern pine wood is still good underneath. Some even had a layer of felt. This would never have survived with fasteners in the low spots. You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low spots without causing the screws to leak and damage, I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. ****Always strip the asphalt roof!**** before putting on a metal roof. Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or bending the roof. ***The entire idea of a metal roof is to get 3x or 4X times the age of an asphalt roof. Yes, that's right, no reason you cannot get 60+ years out of a steel roof with little or no maintenance.****Screws in the low spots assure this will not happen.
+eddie telleed Gentlemen, you may have saved me a world of heartache down the road, thank you. After watching this video I was going to screw in the low place vs. the seams. Randy I'm confused about what you said about when you always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart, if the panels are 3' wide wouldn't the screws be 3' apart across the row of the roof? I think I misunderstood what you meant. Anyway point is I'm going to fasten on the ribs and at the seems per the reasons you guys gave, thanks again for the helpful advice.
A common question about this type of panel. If you refer to the manufacturer's instructions on installation, you will see that they specifically indicate fastening in the flat of the pan. The ribs on this type of panel are curved on top and do not allow for a good seal of the washer. Screwing through the rib often causes the panel to buckle slightly, creating an unsightly 'fishmouth' effect along the bottom edge.
Roofing companies will uncover these particulars helpful together with the recording looks great you really have a very great offer to roofing companies. I'll recommend your videos
Every sheet metal roof should always have waterproof underlayment for 2 reasons. 1st doesn't matter if screws are on ridge or valley some of them WILL leak 2nd sheetmetal roof always condesate water underneath it from temperature changes and they will drop to insulations if there isn't any underlayment.
Photo Finish oh my god. You and the others shock me. Underlay is important in a shingle roof, let alone a metal roof which; 1- has more temperature change at a faster rate, so more condensation to be had 2)lasts 3x the length of a shingle roof, costs a bunch more as well. But hey why make it watertight??? What?? When water gets under shingles or metal roofs etc, if it then drains off the underlay your ok. When there’s not underlay your wood will be affected. Especially cause everywhere uses plywood not hardwood, which is fine, but for longer lasting roofs hardwood is more recommended for longevity. Plywood, even true ply let alone OSB is still glue based. Moisture releases the glue slowly. Your fasteners then don’t have the hold they did upon install. The longer your roof covering will last, the longer in theory you want the sheathing to last. If you have a metal roof with condensation forming on the backside with no underlay, that’s a recipe for rotten (or minimally expanded boards) which will need to be replaced eventually. Also not gaming proper ventilation throws a big loop in metal roofs. Not tearing the old shingles off and laying metal, eventually the shingle nails can back out from the wood over freeze/that cycles and actually dent the metal outward coming up from the bottom.
Out of all the roofers here who are claiming the panel should be attached thru the rib vs thru the panel has any 1 of you attended 4 yrs trade school and earned a journeyman card in Roofing or architectural sheet metal ? the reason this metal roofing panel is not allowed to be attached thru the rib is because the roof panels move with thermal shock ,when the panels move any gap between the metal panel & the fastener will be exploited by expansion & contraction ,the expansion & contraction causes the washers to become lose 1st ,then the screw itself to back itself out ,with the panel screwed directly thru the metal laying flat on the deck there is no weak spot between the fastener and roof panel to be exploited by expansion & contraction. As for the " Silicone " arguement " just know this ,every major manufacturer of asphalt roofing materials ,metal roofing materials ,EPDM and TPO, PVC etc in the USA specifies either Vulkem brand or Sika Flex ,some architects will allow Vulkem to be substituted with Quad brand caulking ,the 1 thing these caulking have in common is that all are Polyurethane caulk ,I challenge anybody here to go outside there house and peel the " 50 year " Silicone off their windows ,it will pull right off with ease ,silicone is such a terrible waterproofing agent it's not used in even 1 commercial & industrial building trade & architects put notes in bid packets that in no case will silicone be a substitute material in any waterproofing. Polyurethane caulks are like roofing tar where once tooled in they adhere 100% to any surface ,and they can flex exactly like silicone, the only thing high temp silicone is ever specified for is on extremely hot vent pipes to caulk the pipe collar .
I had always heard, NOT to screw the rib...but that seems to be standard practice down here, S La. 1 on the rib, 1 on the narrow rib side, right next to it.
Here is one most do not do. Clean the metal with alcohol before applying polyurethane to it. Also all these polyurethane products will peel off of TPO. PVC. I get a kick out of a repair made on a TPO roof with a dab of sealant. You want a good metal roof. Get standing seam . These barn metal roofs belong on a a barn not your house . All of the screws with washers are going to fail. I do commercial roof repair for a living . And the biggest mistake made in the roofing business is hiring the lowest bid . You get what you pay for . We need a printed pattern single ply roof system . That will look like a slate system.
Well the guy may not be perfect but experience makes the master and even thought i went to design school i realize that the real knowledge is in the experience. Experiencing the weird and forbidden things will give us a better insight
"Boots" or decktites as we call them here are no longer used like this. Flat plate is first installed over the penetration extending sideways to cover the nearest corrugations and extending up underneath the ridge. The " boot" is only then installed to a flat surface. Fitting like this ,especially over corrugations , and sometimes causing a dam will eventually cause a leak.
Jez Jukes came to the comments to find this. Good Commercial standing seam roof installation instructions expressly prohibit boots over a seam like that.
@@Harmon1ca yep WITHOUT the flat plate, just came across this , if you use anything other than a boot/decktite do it. Boot to roof straight is a massive no no.
The mounting methode depends on the surface under the sheets, when screwing metal on metal, always screw in the valley and not in the top. Use selfdrilling rvs screws with epdm rings. The first 2 and last 2 sheets double quantity and also in gutter and in the ridge. And if you want a very good tip from a very experienced company here it is: in the gutter, gentely bend the valleys of the sheets with a locking plier or something (do not damage the coatoing) about 5mm downwards, the water will run to the middle of the valley and the waterdrops will not hang for days under the cuttedsheet. It sounds a bit crazy but the sheet will last longer because of less rust in time on the cutting edge, the coating will not rimple in time.
as a contractor in Texas where we have extreme climate conditions and and the rubber washer of the screws tends to brake apart. what we do is install them on the flat surface because is faster, easier and more secured. then we paint the whole according to the clients choose of color using elastomeric paint. we use a paint sprayer to atomized paint and it can penetrate thus last longer. colored panels tend to get scuffs, scratches and bends that from a distances distorts the original Intended color. screws are as gold as the installation a good job is one where time is taken to do a good job. fast but efficient. we offer 30 yrs warranty in all our roof. while some competitors take 2 days for a roof we take 4 days to apply the required torque in each screw, the right cuts and process. time and cost are no good if efficiency is sacrificed because it will come back to bite you in the ass. a job well done speaks of you... and each head is a world so I've seen guys screwing on the ribs and on the edges they have to press down to screw or do lots of weird stuff to propertly tighten them. also screws on ribs doesn't let you see how deep have you gotten.
rudy nevarez "what we do is install them on the flat surface because is faster, easier " Sure, and putting on an expensive new roof is all about doing it as FAST as possible! screws on the flat surface will always be prone to leaking
+rudy nevarez Notice where you said: "because is faster, easier " Faster and easier are not the hallmarks of craftsmanship. I want you to study for a while the work of Gustav Stickley from 100+ years ago. Did he do things "faster and easier"? When you go to Mass ask yourself was the church built "faster and easier"? Look up at the workmanship. Was it done quick and dirty? Think on that for a long while. You might catch my drift. If you can't here's the short version: conduct workmanship as though it was a present to your wife on your very own house. Think about that for while. Quit being greedy and conduct you workmanship as though you yourself wanted to have it on your very own house. Too ashamed tor reply? Hmmm...that's too bad. Remember you reputation follows you like: a curse or a gift. You decide.
i always carry a pair of tweezers to pick out little chunks of steel that gets stuck to magnet in the 1/4 nut setter, nothing worse than a zip-it screw that keeps coming out of the nut setter when your trying to hang on to the work and hold on to a ladder and getting tired.
Many houses have far more roof penetrations than are needed. Connect plumbing vents together in the attic to reduce the number of VTRs to the minimum. Size them according to code & install wall clean-outs if required. The penetrations that remain should be moved so they come thru the panels in the best places. Wide penetrations should come thru the middle of a panel ridge so water can flow by in a valley on either side. Narrow penetrations should be centered in a valley.
BINGO!!!!! I live in Florida and they NEVER try to put the screws on the ribs. That shit will blow off. Doing it in the flats won't make them leak. INSTALLING THE SCREWS INCORRECTLY WILL MAKE THEM LEAK. My roof is rated at 150 MPH.
To the people talking about the location of screws. It is a give and take subject. If they are placed in the flat of the panel there is more screw penetrating the wood and is giving a better hold to wind yet it is more vulnerable to leak, and when the rubber washer extends its life span it will cause leaks. If the screw is placed in the high (high rib) it has less threads in the wood and isn’t going to be as strong but is less vulnerable to leak and will stay dry longer . Many Barnes and other structures are 50+ years old nd are still dry. Yet there is less screw penetrating making the roof more vulnerable to wind. I personally install these roofs in my own way that I feel is best( my opinion). I place the bottom screws 4 inches up the panel with a inch over hang and place those screws in the flat. The bottom is the area that takes the most wind and is the structures perimeter. Also if the washer is to fail the water should come out on the drip edge and exit. The in field fasteners are installed in the high rib as they aren’t as vulnerable to wind. This method place seems to be a good wind resistant and also avoids leaks as I’ve seen many roofs ruined due to all the screws in the flats. I’ve also seen roofs blow off from the screws in the high rib. I’ve personally seen the flaws of both installations so I thought to make the best of both and try and avoid any failures. But honestly if you want the best possible metal roof system investing in a double seamed standing seam roof will be the best, or a full clip (100% clip , clips are same length as panel) T panel. But both those systems are more than twice the traditional screw down panels in price. That’s my 2 pennies.
Metal roofing can be very tedious. That's why you should hire experienced roofing companies in CT. Too much sealant or rubber caulk is not the answer to correct and long lasting metal roof panel assemblies. great job by the guy in this video.
Video is clear, nicely done, and explains very well. I wonder how long does the rubber washers on the screws last before they start leaking and need replacing.
+WATCHMAN1611 that's what I always thought but these industry experts say to do it the other way. which is right and who or where is the substantiation?
If you put them on the high part, how would the metal be attached to the purlins unless you used much longer screw, and then the metal wouldn't be mated to the wood.
Even a truck with big Swampers dry rots. I layed down a lot of metal ROOFING, the biggest problem is ice damming. And " A" section wind.. so all the ones I put on the bottom flat or not get a dab of RTV thermostat sealant, Miami-Dade certified
With the chemistry of rubber it will only maintain its true chemical bond for around six years before it starts to degrade, dry out, loose flexibility, & eventually begin to crack 7-10 years later. The weather elements speed that process up.
In this video, you have a really nice B-vent that I'd like to get for a smoke pipe on a standing seam roof. I've been looking all-over the internet for it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who makes it please and where I might buy one? Thanks in advance.
You can settle an argument for me between my friend and myself, He is building a porch added on to his shop I told him he does not need to put OSB under the tin roof just strapping he said he needs to put the boys be so it will have more places to screw. Should he waste the money to put the OSB under the metal siding or just use strapping across the rafters one by fours
I would definitely NOT use OSB. With no decking, I like to use 2x4's placed 2 feet on center for the added strength, though 1x4s might work on 16" centers. OSB is a bad choice because the screws will not hold over time and will back out badly and leak after just a few years. If you want to use solid decking, ½" CDX plywood is a good choice.
Like the point about caulking. Most people don't realize just how much a steel roof structure moves as temperatures change. Even more than wood against stucco. Depend on the roof, not caulking.
2:26 you were talking about using the screws the correct way if you look behind the man towards the upper left you can see the metal has a few dents in it that's what happens when youve tightened the screws down too much
@The Sentry just pre measure for pulling, line up your sheets you can drill 10 sheets fairly easy. And all will be the same. You must adjust for overhang but it is fast and your people won't miss a screw.
I realize there is disagreement, even among manufacturers, over where to put the screws. I can't understand why it would be better to place them in the flat section. That area is a lower so it is where the majority of water flows. In a heavy rain the high points have water droplets whereas the valley has a constant flow of water. I wish someone could explain why the flat surface is the better choice for screws.
***** Are you putting on a metal roof or a rubber washer roof?, because you have to make up our mind. If you put them in the low spots, that's what you're doing: relying on washers to be your roof and throwing away 30-40% advantage of the metal roof. The washers should be able to fail and the roof should still go 40 years with touching it at all. Back before screws were around, you put nails in the top ribs. You don't even really need washers for a long time if you out them on top of the ribs and have a felt backing on top of quality lumber. Don't believe me? Try putting them in the low spots without washers and see how long your roof lasts.
rubber washers on the flats (valleys) is highly not recomended due the seal not always seatted correctly or age has caused it to rot or crack and have seen a time or two the seal just not there. common sence would tell you that you have less water in the peek than a flood in the valley.
It seems that way, Gene, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'? got a video on that?
If the last panel is going to be awkwardly skinny, you should adjust the first panel over some so that the last panel will be larger. You'll need to trim some off the first panel to make it more narrow and won't be able to start with the clean factory edge if you're using a drip edge trim.
Used a fiberglass ridge cap on a galvanized metal roof. Water coming off the fiberglass onto the metal caused it over time to rust at that point.This started after about 5 years.Now after 24 yrs no rust anywhere except at the peak where the water run/drips onto the galv/metal. My theory is the fiberglass starts to break down over time and etches the metal at that point. Sort of a slow glass beading effect. I don't think a galv/tin ridge cap would have done this. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don in Florida 🍺
We've had 3 metal roof put on garages/camper ports and ALL have condensation build up and dripping. It doesn't matter so much with carports but you always want underlayment protection on a house...ALWAYS
I just built a shed that I will be receiving a metal roof. I installed solar board panels over the rafters. What would be the recommended underlayment needed before the panels go on?
I have a question. I recently saw an issue where pressure treated timbers were used on a carport and one of them had warped badly. It had a plywood deck and this type of metal roofing. The roofing edge had lifted badly at the one rafter timber warping the plywood deck and metal deck. I this case what problems can arise with the metal roofing fasteners? Being that screwed fasteners were used would the heat and cold cycles cause expansion and contraction enough to elongate the fastener holes in the metal roofing panels eventually allowing water to penetrate the metal panels?
When I installed steel roofing a few yrs ago, we were always told to install the screws through the high rib and never on the lower flat surface. Why are your screws installed in the lower flat surface?
tell me what you do about the screws backing out because of heat in the tin roof. Expansion and contraction. Day in and day out of the roof doing this will back the screws out. I have to be on my roof twice a year tighten screws or replacing screws with bigger one. I want a roof that use a clip in a channel so your roof can move without loosen the screws.
Proceeds to over screw the screws (in the pan mind you). 3:10 In cyclonic areas in Australia it's not to code to screw in the pan. Put in decent 2-1/2 screws on each rib with a cyclone washer. Also, biggest mistake I see is not kicking the sheet along to make sure that over sheet rib edge is snug and touching the under rib. Don't want it gapping. If done properly, you will hardly see where the sheets lap.
i've been doing asphalt roofing for a long time, never did metal. crazy how many screws you put in that flashing. I guess that's how it's done though. It looked good.
Mp one feels sticky and quality when you put it on.Imust admit its better than water base but when you see it chalk and fall off in 5 or 6 years Id hope you didn't use it to actually hold out water.The less goop you use,the better.You new construction planners,keep penatrations to aminimum,and low on the roof as these boots will need gooped in 6or 7 years.The best goop at 10 11 bucks isgeocel at ace hardware but no colors,so,if youre trying to fill big gaps to fix anF up,it wont work.It isn't silly cone,but it isclear.
OK, I see there is a lot of controversy regarding putting the screws on the rib or on the flat. Chris, the narrator, lives in Georgia, USA, and manufacturers in this part of the world recommend placing the screws in the flat next to the rib. So, there you have it!
I have roofs on 20 years screws in the flats and no leaks.It seems obvious to me that expansion and contraction are absorbed by the ribs. A screw in the rib interferes.This is not 5 v tin.
Different panels require different methods to screw off American standard requires you to screw in the flat . I have screwed on the rib before on a pole barn in on the inside when you look through if you screw it on the high rib you can see daylight to me that is a leak you do what the manufacturer says to do which is screw on the flat I know it doesn't seem like the right thing to do but it is in in the north country I live in Maine if you install a metal roof you must take the gutters off because when the snow slides off it will tear the gutters write off every time
I can see how putting the screw on the flat would hold the gasket more flat and tight. But I would see it leaking easier eventually. Atleast putting on the ridge water would stand better chance of rolling down the ridge and onto the flat!!!! I was always taught on high rib!!!!
You still answering questions if so...I am installing a metal roof on a metal shop and I am having to cut the high rib off at 1 end so the trim will cover the sheet metal. What do I do to assure it doesn't leak since the high rib is being removed?
I do metal roofs over existing shingles and tar paper but I never fasten the sheeting to the wood I put metal runners to fasten the panels, because the wood expands and retracts and after a couple of yrs. the screws tend to loosen up I have seen it
@@photofinish8607 This is common down here in the South. You can still Inspect what you need to BEFORE you lay out your 1 X 4's etc.... This CAN be done, but of course it's recommended to tear off shingles... Don't think HACK is acceptable-- You should apologize to the man....... WOOP WOOP
@therockkkkher I prefer screws.. Deck screws... 3"-4" depending on what ya have there... I DO NOT RECCOMEND NAILS... screws, to me, is the way to go....!!
wow...crazy-ass comments. This guy is right on ALL counts, esp this silly issue of NOT putting screws in ribs. By placing screws in the flat, this is the only way the screws can be made tight, without creating a dimple in which water can lay.As someone else pointed out, read the manufacturer's directions. Roofing with steel, 35 years.
TH-cam- where EVERYONE is an expert, and knows more than everyone else. This video was posted almost 5 years ago and the experts are still crawling all over it.
I’ve had a metal roof installed very similar to this one. After the contractor had completed the job I just realized I had them put approximately 200 holes in my roof. The washers will eventually dry out and leak. A proper metal roof has the next ridge go over top of the last piece screwed down so the screws are hidden thus eliminating the potential leakage. Even in this video you can see the screws have indented the metal creating a small valley for water to potentially gather. They actually sell a chaulking gun specifically for chaulking the screw heads. I think they recommend doing after 10/15 years. I just did mine. Luckily my roof is fairly flat. Almost impossible to do on a sloped roof without having proper scaffolding. I wouldn’t use this style of metal on a roof. I believe this metal is made to use as vertical siding
ROGER BOURRET whole yes definitely a standing seam hidden fastener system is better than something like this, it is a lot more detailed to install. Not very much more, but it will cost quite a bit more. Not saying the benefits aren’t justified by the extra cost, but a properly secured roof with showing fasteners will be fine for years to come. The one thing I find really odd is to set the screws on the low part of the metal. This is where all the water flows. They make metal panels where the high ribs that run vertically are double bent for extra reinforcement, as your are supposed to put the fastener in the high area. Way less water travelling there. And you just sink until washer is relatively tight, and there no kinks etc. I see this done all over the place. Not sure if being up in Canada having ice is the reason, but leaves me to wonder why you would install screws in the low lying, high traffic area of the panel......
I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’
Nice job I have a question I have a mobile home it has a metal roof I want to install a new metal roof over the original one but I don't want to damage it how do I attach it any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
If your dumb enough to go on a slippery metal roof covered in snow and ice then your dumb enough to dent and scratch the shit out of it with a shovel. Get a snow rake slippery when wet boy.
I agree, in theory. But if there's three to four feet of snow on the roof and it starts to rain, that snow soaks up the water like a sponge. I had a beam sag 7/16 inch under such conditions, so I reluctantly removed some of the snow. Yes, the building WAS perhaps under-engineered, but sometimes we have extreme weather events that challenge a home built to code. Shoveling off a roof is no fun.
I would not use any type of metal roof system where I must put screws through the metal. It is bound to leak as washers dry out and from the normal expansion and contraction of the metal.
Hmm. Why does the small overlap the big? So it sits flatter? It seems to not let water under neath and get trapped and possibly freeze when it sheds away with the big over the small. I already layed a few down the opposite way, so ill see
I believe with a little bit of pre-planning and thoughtful installation you could have installed at least three more fasteners in the flashing boot. (sarcasm)
I am confused some say the big side of the panel goes first overlapped by the small side. Why do we need to do it the other way? What are the possible consequences?
The panels are specifically manufactured to be installed that way. The "fat/big lip" side of the panel has a small groove in it that prevents water from transferring over the lap via capillary action. Also, the extra lip on the fat side can trap debris under it if it is installed on top.
#6 having Anything penetrate the roof in the first place. All exhaust pipes and chimneys can be done out the wall. #7 Having Skylights in the roof. They will leak no matter what you do to seal them. #8 Forgetting to put a dab/line of sealant under where you plan on putting the screw if you decide to put them in the valleys as a extra measure/precaulksion.
How do the panels get screwed down in the purlins if you are only connecting them in the rib? It's a combination of both just like your wall panel installation
Why not install the screws on the ridges? It seems to me that having them rest on the flat part means that water runoff will cause more hydrostatic pressure there than on the ridge because water will runoff easier from the ridge.
Will be installing my own metal roof in the near future. Is it just me? I thought all new residential roofing uses the (best practice) Screw less method. In that screws are installed on outer ridge edge then the next panel snaps over and locks onto this ridge. Then repeat? Any of you guys have any experience with this?
All I can tell you is that MY metal roof required screws. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your roofing panels and ask their advice. Good luck with your project!
Screws on top of the ridges. Not in the channel only screws id put in the channel would be the eaves.at the bottom of the sheet above the soffit. If a screw leaks on top of the ridges not much will come in. But if a screw leaks in the channel. It will leak more. I only put the bottom screws in the channel to keep the wind from lifting the bottom edge.
Hi, I bought a brand new home built with wood trusts and metal roofing. The issue is that when the wind hits the roof just right, it sounds like a loud jackhammer on the roof from inside the house. Question: what would correct this horrible noise?
Common Mistake number 6It would probably look better if you made a cone and a wrap for the pipe so you cant see the boot, you also need to add sealant to the top of the boot around the pipe
I agree to the fact that the rib will never carry more water than the flat/lower section of the panel due to the fact that the rib aren't flat/wide enough to carry the amount of water that the flat section will, therefore not being able to leak as much as a screw drilled in the flat section of the panel. Not to mention the fact that if by tightening the screw too much in the flat section, will leave an indention in the panel, leaving more room for water to enter the home, whereas by putting the screw in the rib will give you a better chance of not having that issue bc of the rib being stronger than the flat section.
This is the perfect way to install metal roofing if you want to keep going back to your customers' houses to fix your mistakes and get sued for damages caused by leaks you created.
If I am putting on metal roofing above a good shingle roof (to more safely collect rainwater ... DO I NEED PURLINS ... as long as I can hit the trusses?
Spot on directions. Nice job. I have and do install tons of metal roofs. The biggest things I do along with these is to lath the roof, not only to level but to make sure I know what i am screwing into. If you screw into a place where two pieces of plywood are connecting, you create a whole in your panel that you have to caulk. Lots of shortcuts can and are taken with roofs. Knowing what you are doing and why you are doing it is the biggest thing in my opinion.
I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .
Where you from?
@@laserfalcon st. Albans vt.
@@laserfalcon st albans vt
@@tinamcwilliams7029 I am looking at doing my large shop with standing seam metal roofing,. Anything you suggest to avoid?
Standing seam good system .I always ad more clips at bottom and top .you should be ok with that .to figure you're pans to see were you and up width of pan with eighth of inch grow rate
Great points. Reducing the number of penetrations in your roof is always a good idea. One of the points I was trying to make in this video was that spending a bit more time on the details will save you big trouble in the long run.
Love that its 5 mistakes in under 5 minutes as opposed to other channels that would run this 20 minutes or more
That's called bringing your footage into an NLE and editing it.
Au Crunk he’s obviously a non-union roofer. No red-tape, coffee breaks, or drinking at lunch. Just a quick, helpful video that didn’t go 500% over budget. 🤣
It’s awesome that you get strait to the point and help folks such as myself who’s about to install and 26 gauge delta rib metal roof on a 6/12 roof because I would have shit the bed…. Thanks again
Mom said to put the screws on the ridges. All her other building advice is solid, so I'm gonna go with that.
Yep
I argued for that til I was blue in the face. That was the way it was done. You will not find a contracter or supplier that recomends screws in the ridges today.
Thank you. The videos explained metal roofing in an easy to understand format.
I put a steel roof on my house 13 years ago & followed the advice I listed previously. You are right, it's important to take the time to make sure the penetrations are sealed well.
me too in my country we used corrugated galvanized iron roofing and the fastener has to be in the ribs or top of the curve portion not on the flat to prevent from leaking so easy. When install the Galvanized roofing correctly your roof stay longer even your grand children can benefit it
Short and sweet, thorough and informative- Great upload Thank you
I was taught to put the screws in the top of the ridge, and use the backers that fill the gaps of the ridges. However, the backers fit for a while, but get off due to not being as accurate as the panels are. A pure waste of time! With freezing and thawing, hot and cold the metal eventually gave way and the panels did not hold. Now, I've seen screws in valleys before, and I've put some in valleys when necessary, along with silicone caulk. If I recall he said you could put sealant on before you put the screw in. This is what I will be doing with the small roof job I'm doing. Pre-drilling holes is a great way to keep all screw holes evenly spaced (I'm a fanatic about screw/nail lines and spacing). I believe when installed properly, the valley will actually be better in the long run. To each his own! I know that by putting a bead of silicone caulk between the top and bottom ridge, and under each screw hole will make a huge difference in how long the roof will last.
i was a roofer for about 10 yrs. i put the screws through the ribs. i also installed foam backer or other insulation barriers. i used 2 1/4" metal screws with a poly washer. no leaks. and i know many of these people that I've roofed for. no leaks. he is right about the silicone and plenty of screws for flashing. still more than i use. those roofs i did are around 17-19 yrs old now.
so you have been doing it wrong for 10 years...good for you...dont give me a quote..EVER
how can a 10 year roofer have roofs good at 17-19 years old ??
@@michaelbeerbados3291 Obviously the roofs outlasted his career
@@michaelbeerbados3291 because he stopped being a roofer 7-9 years ago
So much discussion on where to put the screws. You have two types of screw, you have roof to roof deck screws (these are fairly long), and you have stitching screws (short and thicker). Both have a rubber gasket or seal. The long screws go on the flat part of the roof. This makes for a solid connection. If the long screws are used on the top of the rib, over time they work thier way loose. The short screws are used to hold the panels together and do not go through the roof deck. Hope this helps.
Oops. The stitch screws go on top of the rib, where both panels come together.
Edward Padilla correct, they go into the battons
I caught one mistake in the video, make sure to pre drill your screw holes reason for that is when you run your screw through with out it being pre drilled it makes the metal around it sharp and will tear your washer on the screw and makes it look neater because all the screws are perfectly even
That's how a homeowner would do it. Contractors...not so much...
Why did one source recommend nail punch holes over drill bit? (i forgot)
Notes for me
1. Lapping panel. Fat lip diwn first, cover with short lio showing when done
2 do not over tighten screw...
Place in flat place
Ensure nut driver works well
Caulk is secondary waterproofing
Place caulk underneath shielded from sun
Over hang only up to 2"
Pvc pipe flashing
Many screws
Sealant under base of boot
I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.
John Boykin galvalum is a sheet coating nothing to do with strength moron. Stronger sheets equal heavier gauge metal
Hey dude the screws go in the high ribs. (Screws 2-2.5 “ long with neoprene washers) .This also allows for slight movement from expansion and contraction on cloudy days. You will hear pinging on cloudy days. I have laid hundreds or tons of steel over 40 years(leadhead nails long ago).they are all still ok.
So I just looked at my roof and the screws are on the flats . Then I looked it up and most sites say put the screws on the flats . But a whole lot of sights say as the washers age and the roof moves having the washers on the high ribs will prevent leaks and that's kind of what a roof is for !
@@johnnussberger8505😢h
5 Mistakes to avoid when installing metal roofing- very informative video about metal roofs, thank you.
I live in Monroe County in Florida we have hurricane standards we screw four inches up from the bottom drip edge and then every 8 inch accordingly on the female and the male ribs. As well as in the middle of the panel this guarantees secure system, that has been proven on many occasions to withstand category 4 hurricanes. These standards across Monroe County are the strongest and most coherent in the country being that we do have hurricanes these systems wouldn't work unless there's at least a slope of 3 degrees pitch as so water won't pool from standing water. The Fasteners were not designed to be submerged under water. Anything with less than a 3 degree pitch involves a totally different other system and Hardware.
Thanks for this video,I've actually learned a lot!
Lots of arguments about putting screws in flats or ribs. I've installed a lot of metal roofs. NEVER had a leak! If you put a hole in a piece of metal you create a place for it to leak.... I always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart. On perimeter we do put screws in the flats on 8" spacing to hold edges down which keeps wind from getting under the metal. Never had a leaker and never had a roof blow off. Two points I absolutely agree with in this video... pipe flashing technique and lapping edges... long edge on bottom.
Randy Jacks In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof
instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the
advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and
still going strong after paint jobs and inspection ( these were done before us in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just
galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen
trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak
like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put
them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the
height of the corrugated for free. If you put them in the low spots you do not
have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in
low spots get in the way of ***serviceability**** and leak when you have to go
on the roof years later when you have to go up and do repairs. Keep in mind that you may have to paint it in 40 or so years depending on conditions. ***You will have to reset screws with washers in a **-much much-** shorter period of time before that if you are in the low spots, but it is of little concern if on the high spots.**** I've seen roofs from 1955 that have bare nails on the high spots that are backing out and weep a bit and I had to go up and replace them with screws but the southern pine wood is still good underneath. Some even had a layer of felt. This would never have survived with fasteners in the low spots.
You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low
spots without causing the screws to leak and damage,
I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat
surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. ****Always strip the
asphalt roof!**** before putting on a metal roof. Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you
have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can
actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or
bending the roof.
***The entire idea of a metal roof is to get 3x or 4X times the age of an asphalt roof. Yes, that's right, no reason you cannot get 60+ years out of a steel roof with little or no maintenance.****Screws in the low spots assure this will not happen.
Absolutely agree with you. If you don't give a roof a place to leak it can't leak.
Randy Jacks
Simply and well said.
+eddie telleed Gentlemen, you may have saved me a world of heartache down the road, thank you. After watching this video I was going to screw in the low place vs. the seams.
Randy I'm confused about what you said about when you always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart, if the panels are 3' wide wouldn't the screws be 3' apart across the row of the roof? I think I misunderstood what you meant.
Anyway point is I'm going to fasten on the ribs and at the seems per the reasons you guys gave, thanks again for the helpful advice.
+eddie telleed Many times the screws should go in the low flats so the roof can be shoveled or if you need triangular strength.
I myself, had a standing seam roof put on, mainly too avoid the screw penetration issue.
Excellent choice.
I have a aluminum flat shingle roof, been on the house since 1985
A common question about this type of panel. If you refer to the manufacturer's instructions on installation, you will see that they specifically indicate fastening in the flat of the pan. The ribs on this type of panel are curved on top and do not allow for a good seal of the washer. Screwing through the rib often causes the panel to buckle slightly, creating an unsightly 'fishmouth' effect along the bottom edge.
Roofing companies will uncover these particulars helpful together with the recording looks great you really have a very great offer to roofing companies. I'll recommend your videos
Thanks for clarifying the lip covers.
Every sheet metal roof should always have waterproof underlayment for 2 reasons.
1st doesn't matter if screws are on ridge or valley some of them WILL leak
2nd sheetmetal roof always condesate water underneath it from temperature changes and they will drop to insulations if there isn't any underlayment.
Every agricultural building has absolutely no underlay.
Don’t spread lies
I have never seen a metal roof with what you describe
Photo Finish oh my god. You and the others shock me.
Underlay is important in a shingle roof, let alone a metal roof which;
1- has more temperature change at a faster rate, so more condensation to be had
2)lasts 3x the length of a shingle roof, costs a bunch more as well. But hey why make it watertight??? What??
When water gets under shingles or metal roofs etc, if it then drains off the underlay your ok. When there’s not underlay your wood will be affected.
Especially cause everywhere uses plywood not hardwood, which is fine, but for longer lasting roofs hardwood is more recommended for longevity.
Plywood, even true ply let alone OSB is still glue based. Moisture releases the glue slowly. Your fasteners then don’t have the hold they did upon install.
The longer your roof covering will last, the longer in theory you want the sheathing to last.
If you have a metal roof with condensation forming on the backside with no underlay, that’s a recipe for rotten (or minimally expanded boards) which will need to be replaced eventually.
Also not gaming proper ventilation throws a big loop in metal roofs.
Not tearing the old shingles off and laying metal, eventually the shingle nails can back out from the wood over freeze/that cycles and actually dent the metal outward coming up from the bottom.
Mr wize guy. You make good cookies.
@@justinstevenson2061 that's why you use wood slats
Out of all the roofers here who are claiming the panel should be attached thru the rib vs thru the panel has any 1 of you attended 4 yrs trade school and earned a journeyman card in Roofing or architectural sheet metal ? the reason this metal roofing panel is not allowed to be attached thru the rib is because the roof panels move with thermal shock ,when the panels move any gap between the metal panel & the fastener will be exploited by expansion & contraction ,the expansion & contraction causes the washers to become lose 1st ,then the screw itself to back itself out ,with the panel screwed directly thru the metal laying flat on the deck there is no weak spot between the fastener and roof panel to be exploited by expansion & contraction.
As for the " Silicone " arguement " just know this ,every major manufacturer of asphalt roofing materials ,metal roofing materials ,EPDM and TPO, PVC etc in the USA specifies either Vulkem brand or Sika Flex ,some architects will allow Vulkem to be substituted with Quad brand caulking ,the 1 thing these caulking have in common is that all are Polyurethane caulk ,I challenge anybody here to go outside there house and peel the " 50 year " Silicone off their windows ,it will pull right off with ease ,silicone is such a terrible waterproofing agent it's not used in even 1 commercial & industrial building trade & architects put notes in bid packets that in no case will silicone be a substitute material in any waterproofing.
Polyurethane caulks are like roofing tar where once tooled in they adhere 100% to any surface ,and they can flex exactly like silicone, the only thing high temp silicone is ever specified for is on extremely hot vent pipes to caulk the pipe collar .
Michael Ledford
Michael Ledford i
Michael Ledford
Lots of good info, thank u
I had always heard, NOT to screw the rib...but that seems to be standard practice down here, S La. 1 on the rib, 1 on the narrow rib side, right next to it.
Here is one most do not do. Clean the metal with alcohol before applying polyurethane to it. Also all these polyurethane products will peel off of TPO. PVC. I get a kick out of a repair made on a TPO roof with a dab of sealant.
You want a good metal roof. Get standing seam . These barn metal roofs belong on a a barn not your house . All of the screws with washers are going to fail. I do commercial roof repair for a living . And the biggest mistake made in the roofing business is hiring the lowest bid . You get what you pay for .
We need a printed pattern single ply roof system . That will look like a slate system.
Do you ever recommend placing the screws in the rib? Or should I place them in the flat part?
Would be nice to see you go around the heating vent looks very nice.
Well the guy may not be perfect but experience makes the master and even thought i went to design school i realize that the real knowledge is in the experience. Experiencing the weird and forbidden things will give us a better insight
"Boots" or decktites as we call them here are no longer used like this.
Flat plate is first installed over the penetration extending sideways to cover the nearest corrugations and extending up underneath the ridge.
The " boot" is only then installed to a flat surface.
Fitting like this ,especially over corrugations , and sometimes causing a dam will eventually cause a leak.
Jez Jukes came to the comments to find this. Good Commercial standing seam roof installation instructions expressly prohibit boots over a seam like that.
@@Harmon1ca yep WITHOUT the flat plate, just came across this , if you use anything other than a boot/decktite do it. Boot to roof straight is a massive no no.
The mounting methode depends on the surface under the sheets, when screwing metal on metal, always screw in the valley and not in the top. Use selfdrilling rvs screws with epdm rings. The first 2 and last 2 sheets double quantity and also in gutter and in the ridge. And if you want a very good tip from a very experienced company here it is: in the gutter, gentely bend the valleys of the sheets with a locking plier or something (do not damage the coatoing) about 5mm downwards, the water will run to the middle of the valley and the waterdrops will not hang for days under the cuttedsheet. It sounds a bit crazy but the sheet will last longer because of less rust in time on the cutting edge, the coating will not rimple in time.
as a contractor in Texas where we have extreme climate conditions and and the rubber washer of the screws tends to brake apart. what we do is install them on the flat surface because is faster, easier and more secured. then we paint the whole according to the clients choose of color using elastomeric paint. we use a paint sprayer to atomized paint and it can penetrate thus last longer. colored panels tend to get scuffs, scratches and bends that from a distances distorts the original Intended color. screws are as gold as the installation a good job is one where time is taken to do a good job. fast but efficient. we offer 30 yrs warranty in all our roof. while some competitors take 2 days for a roof we take 4 days to apply the required torque in each screw, the right cuts and process. time and cost are no good if efficiency is sacrificed because it will come back to bite you in the ass. a job well done speaks of you... and each head is a world so I've seen guys screwing on the ribs and on the edges they have to press down to screw or do lots of weird stuff to propertly tighten them. also screws on ribs doesn't let you see how deep have you gotten.
where in Texas are you?
McAllen and u?
argh.....too far away to have you work on my roof. My roof needs some work. Had a tree fall on it last year. Needs decking, insulation, etc.
rudy nevarez "what we do is install them on the flat surface because is faster, easier "
Sure, and putting on an expensive new roof is all about doing it as FAST as possible! screws on the flat surface will always be prone to leaking
+rudy nevarez Notice where you said: "because is faster, easier " Faster and easier are not the hallmarks of craftsmanship. I want you to study for a while the work of Gustav Stickley from 100+ years ago. Did he do things "faster and easier"? When you go to Mass ask yourself was the church built "faster and easier"? Look up at the workmanship. Was it done quick and dirty? Think on that for a long while. You might catch my drift. If you can't here's the short version: conduct workmanship as though it was a present to your wife on your very own house. Think about that for while. Quit being greedy and conduct you workmanship as though you yourself wanted to have it on your very own house. Too ashamed tor reply? Hmmm...that's too bad. Remember you reputation follows you like: a curse or a gift. You decide.
i always carry a pair of tweezers to pick out little chunks of steel that gets stuck to magnet in the 1/4 nut setter, nothing worse than a zip-it screw that keeps coming out of the nut setter when your trying to hang on to the work and hold on to a ladder and getting tired.
Many houses have far more roof penetrations than are needed. Connect plumbing vents together in the attic to reduce the number of VTRs to the minimum. Size them according to code & install wall clean-outs if required. The penetrations that remain should be moved so they come thru the panels in the best places. Wide penetrations should come thru the middle of a panel ridge so water can flow by in a valley on either side. Narrow penetrations should be centered in a valley.
I install screws in the flats per manufacturer specifications and exceed our local code requirements by following the Miami-Dade screw pattern
BINGO!!!!! I live in Florida and they NEVER try to put the screws on the ribs. That shit will blow off. Doing it in the flats won't make them leak. INSTALLING THE SCREWS INCORRECTLY WILL MAKE THEM LEAK. My roof is rated at 150 MPH.
Most helpful video I found. Thank you.
To the people talking about the location of screws. It is a give and take subject. If they are placed in the flat of the panel there is more screw penetrating the wood and is giving a better hold to wind yet it is more vulnerable to leak, and when the rubber washer extends its life span it will cause leaks. If the screw is placed in the high (high rib) it has less threads in the wood and isn’t going to be as strong but is less vulnerable to leak and will stay dry longer . Many Barnes and other structures are 50+ years old nd are still dry. Yet there is less screw penetrating making the roof more vulnerable to wind. I personally install these roofs in my own way that I feel is best( my opinion). I place the bottom screws 4 inches up the panel with a inch over hang and place those screws in the flat. The bottom is the area that takes the most wind and is the structures perimeter. Also if the washer is to fail the water should come out on the drip edge and exit. The in field fasteners are installed in the high rib as they aren’t as vulnerable to wind. This method place seems to be a good wind resistant and also avoids leaks as I’ve seen many roofs ruined due to all the screws in the flats. I’ve also seen roofs blow off from the screws in the high rib. I’ve personally seen the flaws of both installations so I thought to make the best of both and try and avoid any failures. But honestly if you want the best possible metal roof system investing in a double seamed standing seam roof will be the best, or a full clip (100% clip , clips are same length as panel) T panel. But both those systems are more than twice the traditional screw down panels in price. That’s my 2 pennies.
Metal roofing can be very tedious. That's why you should hire experienced roofing companies in CT. Too much sealant or rubber caulk is not the answer to correct and long lasting metal roof panel assemblies. great job by the guy in this video.
***** Agreed...:-)
Video is clear, nicely done, and explains very well. I wonder how long does the rubber washers on the screws last before they start leaking and need replacing.
+WATCHMAN1611 that's what I always thought but these industry experts say to do it the other way. which is right and who or where is the substantiation?
If you put them on the high part, how would the metal be attached to the purlins unless you used much longer screw, and then the metal wouldn't be mated to the wood.
you use 1.5" screws for the high part and 3/4" for the low part where metal covers metal. been learning a lot on the roof of moms home we just bought.
Even a truck with big Swampers dry rots. I layed down a lot of metal ROOFING, the biggest problem is ice damming. And " A" section wind.. so all the ones I put on the bottom flat or not get a dab of RTV thermostat sealant, Miami-Dade certified
With the chemistry of rubber it will only maintain its true chemical bond for around six years before it starts to degrade, dry out, loose flexibility, & eventually begin to crack 7-10 years later. The weather elements speed that process up.
In this video, you have a really nice B-vent that I'd like to get for a smoke pipe on a standing seam roof. I've been looking all-over the internet for it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who makes it please and where I might buy one? Thanks in advance.
You can settle an argument for me between my friend and myself, He is building a porch added on to his shop I told him he does not need to put OSB under the tin roof just strapping he said he needs to put the boys be so it will have more places to screw. Should he waste the money to put the OSB under the metal siding or just use strapping across the rafters one by fours
I would definitely NOT use OSB. With no decking, I like to use 2x4's placed 2 feet on center for the added strength, though 1x4s might work on 16" centers. OSB is a bad choice because the screws will not hold over time and will back out badly and leak after just a few years. If you want to use solid decking, ½" CDX plywood is a good choice.
Like the point about caulking. Most people don't realize just how much a steel roof structure moves as temperatures change. Even more than wood against stucco. Depend on the roof, not caulking.
2:26 you were talking about using the screws the correct way if you look behind the man towards the upper left you can see the metal has a few dents in it that's what happens when youve tightened the screws down too much
Predrill panels to keep lines straight
@The Sentry just pre measure for pulling, line up your sheets you can drill 10 sheets fairly easy. And all will be the same. You must adjust for overhang but it is fast and your people won't miss a screw.
I realize there is disagreement, even among manufacturers, over where to put the screws. I can't understand why it would be better to place them in the flat section. That area is a lower so it is where the majority of water flows. In a heavy rain the high points have water droplets whereas the valley has a constant flow of water. I wish someone could explain why the flat surface is the better choice for screws.
Roofing intelligent. Com
***** Are you putting on a metal roof or a rubber washer roof?, because you have to make up our mind. If you put them in the low spots, that's what you're doing: relying on washers to be your roof and throwing away 30-40% advantage of the metal roof. The washers should be able to fail and the roof should still go 40 years with touching it at all. Back before screws were around, you put nails in the top ribs. You don't even really need washers for a long time if you out them on top of the ribs and have a felt backing on top of quality lumber. Don't believe me? Try putting them in the low spots without washers and see how long your roof lasts.
rubber washers on the flats (valleys) is highly not recomended due the seal not always seatted correctly or age has caused it to rot or crack and have seen a time or two the seal just not there. common sence would tell you that you have less water in the peek than a flood in the valley.
It seems that way, Gene, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
Garbage screws through the top rib is the only way to guarantee a leak proof roof.
How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'? got a video on that?
If the last panel is going to be awkwardly skinny, you should adjust the first panel over some so that the last panel will be larger. You'll need to trim some off the first panel to make it more narrow and won't be able to start with the clean factory edge if you're using a drip edge trim.
@@RoofingIntelligence thanks
Used a fiberglass ridge cap on a galvanized metal roof. Water coming off the fiberglass onto the metal caused it over time to rust at that point.This started after about 5 years.Now after 24 yrs no rust anywhere except at the peak where the water run/drips onto the galv/metal. My theory is the fiberglass starts to break down over time and etches the metal at that point. Sort of a slow glass beading effect. I don't think a galv/tin ridge cap would have done this. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don in Florida 🍺
We've had 3 metal roof put on garages/camper ports and ALL have condensation build up and dripping. It doesn't matter so much with carports but you always want underlayment protection on a house...ALWAYS
I just built a shed that I will be receiving a metal roof. I installed solar board panels over the rafters. What would be the recommended underlayment needed before the panels go on?
I have a question. I recently saw an issue where pressure treated timbers were used on a carport and one of them had warped badly. It had a plywood deck and this type of metal roofing. The roofing edge had lifted badly at the one rafter timber warping the plywood deck and metal deck. I this case what problems can arise with the metal roofing fasteners? Being that screwed fasteners were used would the heat and cold cycles cause expansion and contraction enough to elongate the fastener holes in the metal roofing panels eventually allowing water to penetrate the metal panels?
When I installed steel roofing a few yrs ago, we were always told to install the screws through the high rib and never on the lower flat surface. Why are your screws installed in the lower flat surface?
Never seen them installed on the high point
Different areas of the country have different recommendations. For your area, follow the manufacturers instructions.
good work thanks for taking the time to show us..
tell me what you do about the screws backing out because of heat in the tin roof. Expansion and contraction. Day in and day out of the roof doing this will back the screws out. I have to be on my roof twice a year tighten screws or replacing screws with bigger one. I want a roof that use a clip in a channel so your roof can move without loosen the screws.
It depends on the manufacture on where the screws go. I have seen both ways.
Proceeds to over screw the screws (in the pan mind you). 3:10
In cyclonic areas in Australia it's not to code to screw in the pan. Put in decent 2-1/2 screws on each rib with a cyclone washer.
Also, biggest mistake I see is not kicking the sheet along to make sure that over sheet rib edge is snug and touching the under rib. Don't want it gapping. If done properly, you will hardly see where the sheets lap.
i've been doing asphalt roofing for a long time, never did metal. crazy how many screws you put in that flashing. I guess that's how it's done though. It looked good.
That's bull mp1 is some good caulk they have clear to and you can put it right on top
Mp one feels sticky and quality when you put it on.Imust admit its better than water base but when you see it chalk and fall off in 5 or 6 years Id hope you didn't use it to actually hold out water.The less goop you use,the better.You new construction planners,keep penatrations to aminimum,and low on the roof as these boots will need gooped in 6or 7 years.The best goop at 10 11 bucks isgeocel at ace hardware but no colors,so,if youre trying to fill big gaps to fix anF up,it wont work.It isn't silly cone,but it isclear.
OK, I see there is a lot of controversy regarding putting the screws on the rib or on the flat. Chris, the narrator, lives in Georgia, USA, and manufacturers in this part of the world recommend placing the screws in the flat next to the rib. So, there you have it!
I have roofs on 20 years screws in the flats and no leaks.It seems obvious to me that expansion and contraction are absorbed by the ribs. A screw in the rib interferes.This is not 5 v tin.
Do you have to use firing strips on a new truss roof with 5/8" OSB?
Different panels require different methods to screw off American standard requires you to screw in the flat . I have screwed on the rib before on a pole barn in on the inside when you look through if you screw it on the high rib you can see daylight to me that is a leak you do what the manufacturer says to do which is screw on the flat I know it doesn't seem like the right thing to do but it is in in the north country I live in Maine if you install a metal roof you must take the gutters off because when the snow slides off it will tear the gutters write off every time
jasen daszkiewicz that's what they make ice breaks for is to keep the snow from sliding off and ripping the gutters off of your house
jasen daszkiewicz hang gutters up to a small torpedo level that's sits on roof. They should be about 1 inch down from roof line
I can see how putting the screw on the flat would hold the gasket more flat and tight. But I would see it leaking easier eventually. Atleast putting on the ridge water would stand better chance of rolling down the ridge and onto the flat!!!!
I was always taught on high rib!!!!
You still answering questions if so...I am installing a metal roof on a metal shop and I am having to cut the high rib off at 1 end so the trim will cover the sheet metal. What do I do to assure it doesn't leak since the high rib is being removed?
can you tell me where to buy those panels? brand price etc thanks in advance... greate video
I do metal roofs over existing shingles and tar paper but I never fasten the sheeting to the wood I put metal runners to fasten the panels, because the wood expands and retracts and after a couple of yrs. the screws tend to loosen up I have seen it
You’re a hack, all current products should be removed.
How do you inspect the plywood or framing?
You should never admit that
You must be somewhere where it’s really hot and dry. ?
@@photofinish8607 This is common down here in the South. You can still Inspect what you need to BEFORE you lay out your 1 X 4's etc.... This CAN be done, but of course it's recommended to tear off shingles... Don't think HACK is acceptable-- You should apologize to the man....... WOOP WOOP
@therockkkkher I prefer screws.. Deck screws... 3"-4" depending on what ya have there... I DO NOT RECCOMEND NAILS... screws, to me, is the way to go....!!
Upper left of the image at 2:29 shows material badly distorted by what looks like overtightening.
Agreed, I also question his "Mistake # 1" based on common sense and how water ingress works..
We were told to never put screws anywhere in the flat valleys only to use screws at the tips of the ridges where water will not be
So on a long run on a re roof should you do 2 inches so it doesn’t shrink below a inch?
My Next Roofing job will include curve eaves with the same type of panel your using in this video. Can it be done without kinking the metal ?
wow...crazy-ass comments. This guy is right on ALL counts, esp this silly issue of NOT putting screws in ribs. By placing screws in the flat, this is the only way the screws can be made tight, without creating a dimple in which water can lay.As someone else pointed out, read the manufacturer's directions.
Roofing with steel, 35 years.
Wow thats new putting the screw in the bottom of the pan. Never seen it done that way before.
Do you completely rely on silicone or some sort of undertape to prevent leaks with roof penetrations or is there a way to counter flash them?
TH-cam- where EVERYONE is an expert, and knows more than everyone else. This video was posted almost 5 years ago and the experts are still crawling all over it.
BornToRunBarefoot, Look who's talking!
I’ve had a metal roof installed very similar to this one. After the contractor had completed the job I just realized I had them put approximately 200 holes in my roof. The washers will eventually dry out and leak. A proper metal roof has the next ridge go over top of the last piece screwed down so the screws are hidden thus eliminating the potential leakage. Even in this video you can see the screws have indented the metal creating a small valley for water to potentially gather. They actually sell a chaulking gun specifically for chaulking the screw heads. I think they recommend doing after 10/15 years. I just did mine. Luckily my roof is fairly flat. Almost impossible to do on a sloped roof without having proper scaffolding. I wouldn’t use this style of metal on a roof. I believe this metal is made to use as vertical siding
ROGER BOURRET whole yes definitely a standing seam hidden fastener system is better than something like this, it is a lot more detailed to install.
Not very much more, but it will cost quite a bit more. Not saying the benefits aren’t justified by the extra cost, but a properly secured roof with showing fasteners will be fine for years to come.
The one thing I find really odd is to set the screws on the low part of the metal. This is where all the water flows.
They make metal panels where the high ribs that run vertically are double bent for extra reinforcement, as your are supposed to put the fastener in the high area. Way less water travelling there.
And you just sink until washer is relatively tight, and there no kinks etc. I see this done all over the place.
Not sure if being up in Canada having ice is the reason, but leaves me to wonder why you would install screws in the low lying, high traffic area of the panel......
@@justinstevenson2061 high probability of screws snapping or loosening if they are not screwed into solid base. I.e the hollow ridge
Thanks just the info I was looking for.
I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’
You can screw directly to purlins. I'd recommend 2x4's if there is no decking.
Nice job I have a question I have a mobile home it has a metal roof I want to install a new metal roof over the original one but I don't want to damage it how do I attach it any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
Don't
Run a ridge board and rafters. You can have whatever pitch you want, and jump your ceiling R up as high as you want.
Thanks for this short and concise video!
in the flats ,that is what the WASHERS are for,they plug the hole.you remove the screw and the washer stays there,proof
@Chas Jostin yeah about 25 years !! buy some new screws every 25 years ya cheap prick !!
Screw in the flats. In the north country , when you have to shovel the roof, the snowshovel will rip the screws out.
So your roof isn't engineered strong enough if it can't bare snow load and needs shoveling.
phillip krywosa use a push broom upside down without too much down ward pressure. or just use it brissol side down. works good. or a gas blower.
u 2 r funny
If your dumb enough to go on a slippery metal roof covered in snow and ice then your dumb enough to dent and scratch the shit out of it with a shovel. Get a snow rake slippery when wet boy.
I agree, in theory. But if there's three to four feet of snow on the roof and it starts to rain, that snow soaks up the water like a sponge. I had a beam sag 7/16 inch under such conditions, so I reluctantly removed some of the snow. Yes, the building WAS perhaps under-engineered, but sometimes we have extreme weather events that challenge a home built to code. Shoveling off a roof is no fun.
Which cement is best for waterproofing?
I would not use any type of metal roof system where I must put screws through the metal. It is bound to leak as washers dry out and from the normal expansion and contraction of the metal.
damn that's a lot of screws
Agreed I use half as many, that's a hurricane zone screw pattern lol
If you install some skylights you may need a pallet of screws.
He could have at least doubled the amount of screws he put in. Plenty of space left.
Lmao
might be a requirement for hospital in hurricane area.
Hmm. Why does the small overlap the big? So it sits flatter? It seems to not let water under neath and get trapped and possibly freeze when it sheds away with the big over the small. I already layed a few down the opposite way, so ill see
I believe with a little bit of pre-planning and thoughtful installation you could have installed at least three more fasteners in the flashing boot. (sarcasm)
I am confused some say the big side of the panel goes first overlapped by the small side. Why do we need to do it the other way? What are the possible consequences?
The panels are specifically manufactured to be installed that way. The "fat/big lip" side of the panel has a small groove in it that prevents water from transferring over the lap via capillary action. Also, the extra lip on the fat side can trap debris under it if it is installed on top.
Does that overhang rule pertain to slant style roofs?
#6 having Anything penetrate the roof in the first place. All exhaust pipes and chimneys can be done out the wall.
#7 Having Skylights in the roof. They will leak no matter what you do to seal them.
#8 Forgetting to put a dab/line of sealant under where you plan on putting the screw if you decide to put them in the valleys as a extra measure/precaulksion.
Sounds like a mess.
How do the panels get screwed down in the purlins if you are only connecting them in the rib? It's a combination of both just like your wall panel installation
Why not install the screws on the ridges? It seems to me that having them rest on the flat part means that water runoff will cause more hydrostatic pressure there than on the ridge because water will runoff easier from the ridge.
Had a metal roof professionally installed this year. They put the screws on the ridges. I share your question/concern.
Will be installing my own metal roof in the near future. Is it just me? I thought all new residential roofing uses the (best practice) Screw less method. In that screws are installed on outer ridge edge then the next panel snaps over and locks onto this ridge. Then repeat? Any of you guys have any experience with this?
All I can tell you is that MY metal roof required screws. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your roofing panels and ask their advice. Good luck with your project!
Sometimes when a roof is way out of square snapping a line on ridge will stop saw toothing but panel must be a perfect length
Screws on top of the ridges. Not in the channel only screws id put in the channel would be the eaves.at the bottom of the sheet above the soffit. If a screw leaks on top of the ridges not much will come in.
But if a screw leaks in the channel.
It will leak more. I only put the bottom screws in the channel to keep the wind from lifting the bottom edge.
Hi, I bought a brand new home built with wood trusts and metal roofing. The issue is that when the wind hits the roof just right, it sounds like a loud jackhammer on the roof from inside the house. Question: what would correct this horrible noise?
Sounds like you have a loose piece of sheet metal either due to loose screws or insufficient screws. Probably along the edge of the roof somewhere.
hello can you tell me where could get an information how to install metal roof for a gazebo?? thank you
Common Mistake number 6It would probably look better if you made a cone and a wrap for the pipe so you cant see the boot, you also need to add sealant to the top of the boot around the pipe
standing seam roofing panel best there is only at the underneath screws is to be use with clamps at the end off d day no screws will be visserbel
I agree to the fact that the rib will never carry more water than the flat/lower section of the panel due to the fact that the rib aren't flat/wide enough to carry the amount of water that the flat section will, therefore not being able to leak as much as a screw drilled in the flat section of the panel. Not to mention the fact that if by tightening the screw too much in the flat section, will leave an indention in the panel, leaving more room for water to enter the home, whereas by putting the screw in the rib will give you a better chance of not having that issue bc of the rib being stronger than the flat section.
This is the perfect way to install metal roofing if you want to keep going back to your customers' houses to fix your mistakes and get sued for damages caused by leaks you created.
If I am putting on metal roofing above a good shingle roof (to more safely collect rainwater ... DO I NEED PURLINS ... as long as I can hit the trusses?