im doing a vu ute up, took it to the dyno last week and ive only done exhaust on it, it made 140kw (187hp), i want to top swap it for a l67 SC, get a cam for it and a intake and 10psi pully, but it just doesnt seem worth it if the l67 only makes 12hp more, surely if i did all that it would be a lot higher in the kw range
It's should be making 229 horse from factory which is 171kws I think the tuner said it was rear wheels power ,not sure ,I own a L67 I'm going too add a 4582 turbo is well no room in the engine bay so the location near the diff .
Check out billet race craft pulleys, they have standard sized aluminium alt, water, steering pulleys which are 1kg lighter than standard. Less rotating mass means less energy wasted spinning the crankshaft and supercharger. Ive installed a set on mine and I swear it’s freed up a bit of power on the top end so I would love to know from the Dyno if it’s true, or if it’s just in my head. They are only $225 for full set at the moment for the standard size, you can get 20% over sized but I didn’t think it’s appropriate for a street car.
Tbh i think it sounds like shit. But the thing is I can't point the full blame on the exhaust I believe the way the engine was designed it just turned out to be a horrible sounding engine
Run should be done in third gear as it's 1:1 4th is overdrive. Almost always pulling in 1:1. 200's not to bad I had 182 in a non SC with a towing cam but doubt I have the ft lbs that does. Extremely interested on how you plan on running the 21 psi pulley. What other mods are you going to do to save the pistons from the intake temperatures?
Hey mate Yeah ok we wernt sure what the ratio was of an auto box but if that's 1:1 thats really good. That's a good point about the intake air temp, maybe ill do the pulley at the same time as a front mount intercooler. I've got the pacemakers on now and just need to get on the dyno sometime this week
@@joeycool5810 quickest way to cook this is to smaller pulley and heat soak. Plus the power increase is small as the kr is huge and it pulls out all timing and adds fuel to try and not cook it. Intercooler definitely needed for those levels for it to make more then a pull or two.
@@hayden6056 yeah ok thanks for that info that all makes sense, maybe next ill go for the ls1 throttle body and something else. I want to do it all in stages that are affordable for people, and ill do dyno runs after each modification
@@hayden6056 from what i was aware the ls throttle body and the l67 are identical with the same plugs just the ls1 is obviously larger, it should just bolt on with an adapter from mace
Do yourself a favour and stop spending money on the little supercharger and rip it of and go turbo way easier to make power and less heat than those little chargers that will never be good on intake temps and power levels If you had a decent 30/76 garret on it at 10 psi it would’ve made around 250hp plus then easy 380-400hp at around 18-20psi
@@joeycool5810 Joey hear off the engine isn’t a concern for intake temp’s it’s the fact if you compress air in anyway it raises the temperature of that air hence intercoolers but again those little chargers struggled to keep intake temps down even on stock boost 5-7psi so when you increase the boost levels you only increase the intake temps more next time it’s on a dyno do three to four back to back pulls without giving it a break in between the power pulls and you will see the power drop off this is due to the excessive intake temps A decent turbo that’s designed to make good power say 600hp at roughly 25psi of boost won’t really have bad intake temps till around the 18-20 psi of boost when the turbo is really starting to work but in saying this you still run an intercooler unless your running on methanol a fuel that cools the intake temps dramatically
For most people like me on their Ps this is the perfect car because it just caps the power to weight limit, She might not be no hellcat but the torque is enough for me and my friends to have some fun.
Get a CAI and bigger throttle body from mace engineering, will help ya get more power bro on next dyno 😀 I get my l36 ecotec vx v6 commodore back next week, got full engine rebuild, upgraded pistons, stage 2 high ratio cam, 1.98 high ratio roller rockers, 120lb valve springs, 69mm bigger throttle body, CAI from ss induction (growler), full engine back exhaust with 100 cell high flow cat.... gonna be sweet to see what power my car makes to yours for comparison 😀 Ps also got a stage 2 shift kit in my 4l60e transmission (auto)
Did you fit the shift kit yourself is it manualised? I'm having issues with it staying in 3rd on the dyno. Even with the selector in 3rd it changes into 4th
@@joeycool5810 sadly no, was not feeling confident doing it myself so i got a transmission specialist that lived around the corner from me to install it. When i select from drive to 3rd, 2nd, or 1st it does stay in that gear untill i put it back into Drive mode.
This is my fisrt time here (instant sub). I love this bloke :) what ever you do keep the production low budget.
Hilarious and unique.
Haha thanks mate
@@joeycool5810 need more content my guy i love watching it haha
@@vSelticgaming yeahh comin dude I'm sorting out a new place to make the vids. I'm back out mining atm getting back on me feet
@joeycool5810 no worries mate started a l67 for myself in a vs ute would love some more mods n stuff to do
im doing a vu ute up, took it to the dyno last week and ive only done exhaust on it, it made 140kw (187hp), i want to top swap it for a l67 SC, get a cam for it and a intake and 10psi pully, but it just doesnt seem worth it if the l67 only makes 12hp more, surely if i did all that it would be a lot higher in the kw range
Yours will make more power man, the standard motors have higher compression pistons to start with
It will be a lot higher
Shouldnt it be making 230 something for this engine plus supercharger
It's should be making 229 horse from factory which is 171kws I think the tuner said it was rear wheels power ,not sure ,I own a L67 I'm going too add a 4582 turbo is well no room in the engine bay so the location near the diff .
X force exhausts are droney. You need new rear mufflers and hot dogs
Yeah ok ill look into man it sounds like shit as it is
How much did it make before the peacemakers?
Thanks for the vid. Helping with my L67 swap Oldsmobile f85
(Needed to route my belts n stuff
Yeah cool man. Im in the middle of a video putting in new intake manifold gaskets and a supercharger insulator
Is it being dynoed on a etcha sketch
Bit rough hey
😂😂
Can you just bout a supercharger on what’s the process
You can yeah you just need the manifold and cooling pipe that runs behind the engine. Go to the wreckers and have a look man
Does MR Squiggle draw the read outs by any chance?
looks like it
Great video mate got a new sub.👍
Thanks man
So it will work well if I just I slap a 10psi pulley on my L67 do I need to tune it after the pulley is on???
Hey dude. Yeah it should be fine, my car still has the standard fuel pump and there's no issue with the tune
@@joeycool5810 thank U man just what I needed to know and the video's are a big help nice work mate and thanks for replying to me
@@botboy5185 all good man, I just got out of jail so when I'm back on me feet ill be making more videos so stay tuned
Check out billet race craft pulleys, they have standard sized aluminium alt, water, steering pulleys which are 1kg lighter than standard. Less rotating mass means less energy wasted spinning the crankshaft and supercharger.
Ive installed a set on mine and I swear it’s freed up a bit of power on the top end so I would love to know from the Dyno if it’s true, or if it’s just in my head. They are only $225 for full set at the moment for the standard size, you can get 20% over sized but I didn’t think it’s appropriate for a street car.
man if i was that desperate for HP i would have literally got the engine as maxed out as it could go. its a good idea but very expensive
Might as well get a smaller pulley at that point
I’ve been told anything over 10 is gonna chew the gears in the m90 sooner rather than later and I’m not about to try and find out
What's wrong with the Dyno read out ?
there was an issue cody was saying before i took the videos, i think we had dramas because of the runs being taken in top gear. but its not that bad
Hahah mad explosion puttin on tha shades haha
Where the fully sick burnouts bro?? Haha
Very soon. Im waiting on dyno time, so ill get the skids done before then I guess
Merry Christmas blah blah blah New Year hope the Mrs and the Family and kids are doing okay 👌
The UFOs went mental on the night the Russian war broke out insane haven’t heard from you hope you haven’t been ploughed by some Bigfoot 😂👌
Been watching the summer Nats Absolute stinker is out there
Hey Joey is back in jail he gets out soon
@@joeycool5810 that’s messed up. Hope all of youse are doing well. 👌
How do u like the xforce exhaust?
Tbh i think it sounds like shit. But the thing is I can't point the full blame on the exhaust I believe the way the engine was designed it just turned out to be a horrible sounding engine
@@joeycool5810 Hey mate, it's been a while. Have you found a system that makes it sound good?
#600th boganary subaroonie matey
yep
fuck yeh I’ve got a vy spac too, be good to learn from ya
you have a really good attitude
Not good either ,burn it
Where did u get the supercharger from
they come on the car stock?
yeah man thats how they come from factory in australia. tbh i think theyre abit under rated for what it can do
Run should be done in third gear as it's 1:1 4th is overdrive. Almost always pulling in 1:1.
200's not to bad I had 182 in a non SC with a towing cam but doubt I have the ft lbs that does.
Extremely interested on how you plan on running the 21 psi pulley.
What other mods are you going to do to save the pistons from the intake temperatures?
Hey mate
Yeah ok we wernt sure what the ratio was of an auto box but if that's 1:1 thats really good. That's a good point about the intake air temp, maybe ill do the pulley at the same time as a front mount intercooler. I've got the pacemakers on now and just need to get on the dyno sometime this week
@@joeycool5810 quickest way to cook this is to smaller pulley and heat soak. Plus the power increase is small as the kr is huge and it pulls out all timing and adds fuel to try and not cook it.
Intercooler definitely needed for those levels for it to make more then a pull or two.
@@hayden6056 yeah ok thanks for that info that all makes sense, maybe next ill go for the ls1 throttle body and something else.
I want to do it all in stages that are affordable for people, and ill do dyno runs after each modification
@@joeycool5810 do you have Nvram installed? I think LS throttle body requires one small welding an changing the stepper count on the iacv.
@@hayden6056 from what i was aware the ls throttle body and the l67 are identical with the same plugs just the ls1 is obviously larger, it should just bolt on with an adapter from mace
Do yourself a favour and stop spending money on the little supercharger and rip it of and go turbo way easier to make power and less heat than those little chargers that will never be good on intake temps and power levels
If you had a decent 30/76 garret on it at 10 psi it would’ve made around 250hp plus then easy 380-400hp at around 18-20psi
Check out my other vids man it has an insulator now
@@joeycool5810 Joey hear off the engine isn’t a concern for intake temp’s it’s the fact if you compress air in anyway it raises the temperature of that air hence intercoolers but again those little chargers struggled to keep intake temps down even on stock boost 5-7psi so when you increase the boost levels you only increase the intake temps more next time it’s on a dyno do three to four back to back pulls without giving it a break in between the power pulls and you will see the power drop off this is due to the excessive intake temps
A decent turbo that’s designed to make good power say 600hp at roughly 25psi of boost won’t really have bad intake temps till around the 18-20 psi of boost when the turbo is really starting to work but in saying this you still run an intercooler unless your running on methanol a fuel that cools the intake temps dramatically
@@anthonywhelan8373 yes but I want to keep it original. Im not after the fastest car man
th-cam.com/video/0B0S9ewfrII/w-d-xo.html
Where’s the burnouts ya mad rooter
Haha on way, I just finished editing the exhaust change out so thats comin up very soon and ill go do some skids for ya
They run 171kw stock idk how you lost power
Rear wheel (rwkw) rating on the dyno vs flywheel (fwkw) rating from the the factory you have to factor in the 20-25% for drivetrain loss
way to read the brochure bud lol. yeah thats wheel power and auto transmissions absorb more power than manuals
That's 171kw at the fly wheel not rear wheels
polish a turd, its still a turd. buy an SS lad.
For most people like me on their Ps this is the perfect car because it just caps the power to weight limit, She might not be no hellcat but the torque is enough for me and my friends to have some fun.
if i got an ss where would you find a video on the L67
Get a CAI and bigger throttle body from mace engineering, will help ya get more power bro on next dyno 😀
I get my l36 ecotec vx v6 commodore back next week, got full engine rebuild, upgraded pistons, stage 2 high ratio cam, 1.98 high ratio roller rockers, 120lb valve springs, 69mm bigger throttle body, CAI from ss induction (growler), full engine back exhaust with 100 cell high flow cat.... gonna be sweet to see what power my car makes to yours for comparison 😀
Ps also got a stage 2 shift kit in my 4l60e transmission (auto)
Yeah sick let me know how it goes im actually interested
Did you fit the shift kit yourself is it manualised? I'm having issues with it staying in 3rd on the dyno. Even with the selector in 3rd it changes into 4th
@@joeycool5810 sadly no, was not feeling confident doing it myself so i got a transmission specialist that lived around the corner from me to install it. When i select from drive to 3rd, 2nd, or 1st it does stay in that gear untill i put it back into Drive mode.
@@joeycool5810 look up on ebay (commodore stage 2 shift kit) should be 1 for commodores from VR -VE for $255 by Brand called Transgo 😀
@@ghostrider852 ok so with that kit if its in drive then it will drive normally?
Lame as
Why?
Why wtf
When?
lol thanks