She be right. New rad hose and coolant and off you go for more. These things always seize then bust a coolant hose. They always fire right back up tho and keep going.
that was a violent stop .. in addition to the high water pressure, exhaust probably got into the cooling system resulting in the coolant over-pressure and blowing up. Hes probably looking at an overhaul at least, heads, bearings, etc and probably supercharger. But im sure its all in good fun for the next competition.
Seizing means a piston or more has physically welded itself to the bore, a seized motor doesn't just start back up. I get what you meant though, the l67's are a surprisingly tough bottom end
WhatIThinkNation Can confirm this engine is still running to this day , was a 35*+ day , I put too bigger rims than I normally run with tyres on 17/8.5 wide, blew the radiator, I drove it on the trailer later that day , has done a few more comps since then untouched other than a radiator and oil changes . I have no idea how this motor is still going haha Not bad for a car that lived in the paddock for 2years as I had no where else to store it .
Hey, did that L67 have mods, do you modify these engines? Reason is, here in Canada, they don't heavily modify the "3.8 series 2" engine. I have one in my Grand Prix and want to push around 550 to the wheel. I have full headers to a 3 inch exhaust, a basic tune(30whp) a 3.4 pulley and 4 inch intake with 9"× 4" AEM filter. I want to keep it supercharged so what else can I get to achieve 500-550 whp?
im not sure about how strong these motors are, but you could try a smaller charger pully to get a lil more boost... but to push real big power I think you have to build the motor
@@anybudz Yea, I got in touch with ZZPerformance, they told me, for the bolt ons I have now, a 3.4 pulley is the smallest I should go, anything smaller, I need stronger valve springs and retainers. So I am build8ng the head up, then forging the block. These engines are very strong.
Easiest and cheapest way to get 500-550 rwhp from a L67 is to pull the engine and replace it with a strong V8. It's pointless putting lots of money into a motor that is poorly balanced, and is down on performance in so many ways.
I had a fg xr6 BARRA, 195kw blew the gearbox to bits and engine was pouring oil from head to sump (rubbish ) now have a LFX sv6 holden ute 210kw , better on fuel and more power, RAM your Barra's they are rubbish
@@19jacobob93 um no mate🤣😭 this happens to me all the time skidding on limiter for minutes. The owner of this car did another skid comp later this day the car started right back up with new coolant and radiatior don't assume shit ya don't know mate. It's like a safety to slow engine down before pop lol
![[Official Music Video] ฝังใจ - BOW Maylada [Prod. By Tan LIPTA]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rSjk1jKWRN4/mqdefault.jpg)
This is how to properly and honorably send your engine out - with a bang
Solid effort!!!
lmao flips off the engine after
She be right. New rad hose and coolant and off you go for more.
These things always seize then bust a coolant hose.
They always fire right back up tho and keep going.
that was a violent stop .. in addition to the high water pressure, exhaust probably got into the cooling system resulting in the coolant over-pressure and blowing up.
Hes probably looking at an overhaul at least, heads, bearings, etc and probably supercharger.
But im sure its all in good fun for the next competition.
Seizing means a piston or more has physically welded itself to the bore, a seized motor doesn't just start back up. I get what you meant though, the l67's are a surprisingly tough bottom end
the l/h plastic radiator tank exploded. replaced rad /refilled all good. and its smashed plenty of tread since
@@JordyValentine I've seized a buick v6 and fired and ran perfectly the next day hahaha
WhatIThinkNation
Can confirm this engine is still running to this day , was a 35*+ day , I put too bigger rims than I normally run with tyres on 17/8.5 wide, blew the radiator, I drove it on the trailer later that day , has done a few more comps since then untouched other than a radiator and oil changes . I have no idea how this motor is still going haha
Not bad for a car that lived in the paddock for 2years as I had no where else to store it .
Wonder if its an actual Buick L67 3.8 imported from America or just the Ecotech 3.8. The American ones typically hold up better from what I've heard
Yeah the boys!
Looks like a rad hose just busted off. that lil buick motor prob fine
It's a ecotech as well mate not buick
@@nickpearce6436 they're based off an old buick v6
@@cliner3558 made and designed in Elizabeth
@@FiendishlyDelightedSefto the L67 was a buick engine buddy
@@chiknj23 nah
time to rebuild it stronger than ever.
Now thats how its done brah
Sounds tuff af can't wait to run my stato super6 lols
2.51 best bit. now lock it up n leave it
nice engines mate
all these kids angry about brakes... first up his rear brakes are possibly disconnected & its also called throttle control...............
Hey, did that L67 have mods, do you modify these engines? Reason is, here in Canada, they don't heavily modify the "3.8 series 2" engine. I have one in my Grand Prix and want to push around 550 to the wheel. I have full headers to a 3 inch exhaust, a basic tune(30whp) a 3.4 pulley and 4 inch intake with 9"× 4" AEM filter. I want to keep it supercharged so what else can I get to achieve 500-550 whp?
im not sure about how strong these motors are, but you could try a smaller charger pully to get a lil more boost... but to push real big power I think you have to build the motor
@@anybudz Yea, I got in touch with ZZPerformance, they told me, for the bolt ons I have now, a 3.4 pulley is the smallest I should go, anything smaller, I need stronger valve springs and retainers. So I am build8ng the head up, then forging the block. These engines are very strong.
How did that l67 build go? I used to have one and I'm wanting to get another and push some good power
Easiest and cheapest way to get 500-550 rwhp from a L67 is to pull the engine and replace it with a strong V8. It's pointless putting lots of money into a motor that is poorly balanced, and is down on performance in so many ways.
@@johncoops6897 lol that's why it's the fastest 6 in the quater mile. L67 are made strong. Had 2. Like everything at full noise shit breaks
Ah well what a bang
Lots of brake and then it broke...
Holdens.. haven’t seen a tickford or Barra blow up
Obviously searching "blown l67" more than "blown barra"
I had a fg xr6 BARRA, 195kw blew the gearbox to bits and engine was pouring oil from head to sump (rubbish ) now have a LFX sv6 holden ute 210kw , better on fuel and more power, RAM your Barra's they are rubbish
Line em up
get off the brake!!
I bet your the type of guy to claim your xr6tubo makes 300rwkw with just a tune
@@joshuayoung1130 what does that have to do with him saying get off the brake
Real 6's come in a straight configuration 🖕🏻
Real men respect all builds
L67 engine is better then the barra thus why u salty as heck
fuck off
@@YeetYeet-lm1jc you sir have the most respectable comment
All my 6cyls have been inlines however as far as V6s go, the L67 is up there with the best
Ouch
Brake boy
You do better girly man
Shit fuckking engines the blow up all the time
Hahhahaahahhaahah
poor car
Click bait.... Just stops and the cooling system let's go!!!
Really? You didn't hear the knocking before it cut out? She's toast
@@19jacobob93 um no mate🤣😭 this happens to me all the time skidding on limiter for minutes. The owner of this car did another skid comp later this day the car started right back up with new coolant and radiatior don't assume shit ya don't know mate. It's like a safety to slow engine down before pop lol
@@JackSon-yd9qn I know, I was there you dick
jesus christ! baaahahahahahahahahaaa
How to waste money and stay poor !
shut up ya fat oompa loompa