How to build a Chevy 383 Part 3: How To Install a Cam & Timing Chain
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 3 in the series "How to Assemble a 383 Chevy Small Block Stroker Engine." This segment explains and shows what a 4 stroke engine is and how it works and then gives details on how to install a camshaft and timing chain. You can download a custom engine "build sheet' on my website to plan your engine build. For more car and engine pix and videos check out www.corvettesan...
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When u said the fuel burns and expands u just described an explosion. Rapid burning and expansion of compressed gasoline. But seriously I'm building a 383 right now and I keep going back to reference your videos. Great job extremely helpful thank u
Thanks man. I'm glad they help!
This is such a great video! I've been tinkering with chevy small blocks since about 1965 when I bought my first of two '55 Chevy's. I knew the basics but never really knew the details the way you explain them. I want to build a 383 stroker for my 1988 chevy stepside. This will be my guide for every step. Thanks!
Roger Kellerman Thank you! I am glad you like the series. I have a new series on the external parts like oil pan and valve covers, etc. Good tips in there and much nicer engine as well. LOLGood luck and let me know if you ever have any questions. Go to my website and print out the "Build Sheet" it will help you plan and budget your engine build. www.corvettesandcustoms.org
+SanDiegoHotRod What about the rod in the block for the mechanical fuel pump. If the pump is still on the engine, will you have to remove the fuel pump, so the rod can be dropped down to allow the cam to be installed?
+w41duvernay Yes the rod for the pump will have to be taken out or at least dropped down. You can take the 2 big bolts out that hold the fuel pump in and let the rod drop down inside the plate. After the cam is put in you can reinstall the fuel pump. In the front of the block near the pump are two 3/8" holes. The upper hole should have a short bolt in it to keep oil in the pump rod area. If you take the short bolt out you can push the rod up in the hole and use a longer 3/8" bolt in this upper hole to hold the rod up while you install the pump. After the pump is in take out the long threaded bolt and replace it with the short bolt to seal the hole again.
SanDiegoHotRod Thank you! I'm putting a 270h comp cam in a 305 '86 firebird soon. Never done an actual SBC engine before in the car.
I really appreciate that you took the time to make a video on this. It gave me a great insight to what I'm hoping to build. Thanks a lot.
Thanks. I usually don't degree a cam but I have on specific builds. The best guys to talk to are at Comp Cams. They have a "Cam Quest" page on their site to help you choose a cam and grind. Cam installs and degreeing are a bitch if the engine is installed already. If it is a stock bottom end I would just pick a cam that makes the power or torque where you want it at your desired rpm.
Yes when you advance or degree a cam you use small round spacers like thick washers to offset the cam gear. It is a science I never really got into. On a stocker app I would not worry about it.
Awesome videos! Its nice to see things fully explained and put together the correct way especially when I'm trying to teach myself these things. (with the help of your vids of course lol)
+Josh P Thank you very much. They are not perfect and have a few small faux pas' but it was the first time I filmed myself building an engine with one hand and narrating at the same time! LOL Subscribe because I have some very cool videos (and a CAR music video) coming out soon. Check out the "Build Sheet" page on my website www.corvettesandcustoms.org and "like" my facebook page for the very latest fun projects. facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms
+SanDiegoHotRod Hey will do!
If you don't need the beginner's 4-stroke lesson, the actual cam installation begins at 5:38...
i enjoyed the series--i appreciate the vinyl tile floor, too-good idea-
Thank you. Just trying to finish the last part. Have some more video on engines and cars. just have to cut them together and upload them. Stay tuned!
Ill check them out and what I ment was advancing the cam but thanks for your time and response
Did you really just suggest "zipping it down with a gun"? You use an impact gun on your cam bolts?
Thanks man. Stand by for the heads and rockers! My web series The Yard should be fun buying and flipping cars!
You are welcome and thank you.
Great video, very helpful. Keep it up!
The cylinders were okay but if you watch part 1 you can see where I ground the block to clear the rods.
this guy does not even want to know what he did wrong. i hope one day he understands.
SDNC got it.
+Gfdf Perte So tell me what I did wrong. I am always willing to learn.
umm a double roller is about 40$ new why not spring for it.. and I don't see the point in explaining the 4stroke method for explaining compression ratio.. it works exactly the same on a two stoke..
You forgot to tell people that when installing a new aftermarket cam that it might need to be dialed in or that it needs a 30 minute break in time at idle before reving the engine or putting it under a load
This NOT my engine. This belongs to a cheap bastard that just wanted the parts put together. The reason for explaining how a 4 stroke works is because many people do not know and it is easier to see when the engine is apart. Who the hell was talking about 2 stroke engines anyway???? Starting the engine for the first time and breaking in the cam is a different video. Also if you start an engine for the first time with a new cam you need to run it above 1500 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam. If you run a new engine at idle for 30 minutes before "revving" it the cam will go flat. I just have no idea where you pretend to know anything. It's amazing. You have NO idea what you are talking about. Build an engine. Film it. Explain it. and then get back to me.
Try reading ANYTHING on how to build an engine before you write a comment. ANY camshaft install guide will tell you the same thing.
"As soon as the engine fires, bring the RPM up to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. "
www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/COMP4-115.pdf
SanDiegoHotRod I don't have to I've been doing it for 14years and never had a 1stroke or 4stroke blow up due to something I've done.. and I always break my engines in I never trust a customer.. also here's something they don't tell you on a cam always mic your distributor gear they can be defeated on ford's and chevys
did you have to do any grinding on the bottom of the cylinder bores for rod clearence?
Quick question.By lining up the markings on the cam and crank sprocket,even though the #1 cylinder is @ TDC,the cam is set for firing the #6.If I install the distributor with the marks aligned,won't it be 180 degrees out?
Good question. That is why a lot of people get the dist. in 180 out. Any time you install a dist. you need to bump the engine over so that #1 is on TDC (or just before) on the compression stroke. Yes you can set the timing using #6 cylinder (so I have been told but never tried) if you really want to screw with somebody! LOL
Hey man good vid got a question im New to Chevys on a build installing a 280/480 cam in a 350 stock spec bottom end would you degree the cam on install and if so how much thanks for your time
When should you use a wear plate between the timing gear and the block I am installing a mechanical roller cam in my 383 and they suggest the wear plate but I've never built motor that required one before.
richard lundy When you install a roller cam (not just roller rockers) the cam lobes are ground at a flat angle for the roller lifters to ride on. Hydraulic lifter cam lobes are ground with a slight angle so the lifter spins and also puts backward force on the cam to hold it in. Hence no retaining plate or cam button. With "flat" roller cam lobes the cam is able to move out towards the front of the block. When you install a "full roller" cam you need a cam "button" between the cam gear and the timing cover to hold it in place. Since this puts back pressure on the cam you need the wear plate to keep the gear from grinding down the front of the block. That's where the wear plate comes in. I prefer to use a thrust bearing style but you should check the paper work that cam with your camshaft to get the proper thickness cam button and plate. Comp Cams online also has some good info. Hope this helps.
Thanks alot. I have the cam button and the wear plate and the paperwork with the wear plate says I need to have .030 taken off the block or the back of the cam sprocket but what you said all makes sense and I appreciate it very much thank you sir
When number 1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke, what piston is coming up on the exhaust stroke. I'm trying to determine if my cam is set right. I still have heads off. I don't wanna take timing cover off if I don't have to.
Not sure how you would decide if the cam is right with the cover on and the heads off. Number 6 piston should be on exhaust with number 1 at TDC. I have been told that you can time and engine with the timing light on number 6 but have never tried it. If you think you jumped a tooth on the timing chain you should really take a look at it. If you have a timing chain with plastic teeth (covering) or single tooth design you want to make sure it is set right and not loose or jumped a tooth so you don't bend your valves because the valve timing is off.
What I want to know is what piston is at bottom dead center if number 1 is on compression stroke tdc.
So what I gathered from you is when number 1 is on the compression stroke, number 6 is on the exhaust stroke?
Bryan Sweetser
The only way to make sure your cam is set right is to look at the marks on the timing gears.
Yes, it explodes due to the high compression. Rapid expansion of air is the very definition of an explosion. Lighting gasoline without it being in an compressed environment will simply combust and produce no power for a piston.
An explosion ("a specific type of combustion") in the combustion chamber is called "detonation" and is what destroys engines and burns holes into pistons. A controlled burn of vapor in the cylinder and expanding gases which push the piston down is different than the molecular and chemical reaction that happens in an actual "explosion." Way too much information to get into here but do some research and learn the difference. here is a good place to start. answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100206193818AAYIzNP
A detonation is a specific type of explosion that produces a shock wave that is supersonic. A subsonic explosion is NOT a detonation and thus would not destroy an engine. Remember the very definition of an explosion is a rapid expansion of air, which is what is occurring in an internal combustion engine and this subsonic explosion produces the force needed to power the pistons.
Basic college physics
That link is a joke and who wrote does not know the difference, here is a link with an engineering expert:
www.justanswer.com/engineering/6e831-explosive-combustion-causes-occur-describe.html
here is the actual explosion type occurring in an internal combustion engine:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Explosion
Sorry this is the actual link :
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deflagration
Is there a thrust bearing in between the Timing gear and the camshaft. I am putting a Hydraulic Flat Tappet in a zz4 roller block ? Thanks for the Video it was what I was looking for.
Thank you! If you don't have a roller camshaft and roller lifters then you should not need the bearing or a retainer plate.
That what I needed to know. Thanks
I'm about to re time a 350 that supposedly jumped time (ran rough, then died). Won't start now. Would it not be enough to just find TDC on cylinder one, then line up the marks for the cam at 6;00 and the crank at 12:00? Assuming the engine isn't damaged.
If you are looking at the timing gears then you need to make sure the marks on the gears line up. If you set the crank at high noon the valve timing will be off and you can bend your valves. The keyway needs to be at 1 o'clock for number 1 piston to be at TDC. Step #1 in any Chevy shop service manual is always "Verify the problem." You need to determine if the distributor jumped a tooth, the cam jumped a tooth or if the balancer is "spun" meaning that the rubber between the crank hub and outer ring of the balancer took a crap. The balance of the engine will be off causing it to shake and the timing marks will be off making it hard to time right or not run. Take a look at my newest video "How to install a balancer" for a better visual:
th-cam.com/video/uXTybjjdPAI/w-d-xo.html&spfreload=10
Thanks for the reply. The owner claims that there was a great white puff of smoke, ran horribly, now it won't start. I do have the Chevy shop manual for the engine, very thankful, but I think the chain just jumped after so long. How would I go about re timing it as to not damage the valves or piston heads?
Charlie Gates
I still don't know why you would think it jumped a tooth. White smoke and not running well could be a lot of things. Usually white smoke could be a fuel thing or it could be a bad trans module leaking trans fluid into the carb. The only way to verify the problem is pull the timing cover. If it did jump you need to replace the timing chain. There is no "fix." Basic steps are test for spark. Test for fuel and do a compression test. Then pop the valve covers and check the rockers. Make sure none of the rocker studs is pushed out a little. WAY too many things to check before even getting to the chain.
Thanks for your reply. I work for Toyota so these engines are kind of foreign to me!
Now what would be the first thing to check? I'd like to check the easiest things first. Spark will be my first. Compression after that.
Charlie Gates
Does it have a Holley carb? If it coughed and blew white smoke now runs like crap it could have blown a power valve in the carb.
why is the one piston so clean but the other one isnt?
The client told me it was a boat "motor" with only 10 hours on it and one piston was bad so they replaced it. The machine shop did a crappy job and the guy who sold the parts to my client lied about a bunch of stuff. My client was a super cheap douchebag on top of all that. This is the reason I won't buy a car or engine from someone and take their word on ANYTHING! I prefer to buy a car with NO engine and build my own. That is the only way to KNOW for sure it is a good engine.
No. He was a total scam artist I just met. Nothing but constant lies about EVERYTHING! He took $30,000 up front to restore a 69 Chevelle from a semi friend of his and told me he only had $20,000. He then took the money to rebuild the car and bought cars for HIMSELF to flip and make money. He also kept trying to do everything as cheap as possible even if it was not safe. I finally met the owner of the car and he worked with him directly. He completely screwed the owner of the car but the owner still loves me and my work but yeah, douchebag! Take a look at the blue 69 Chevelle with the awesome blue 454 big block I built with NO money on my FB page. facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms
its good been a while
The pistons (cam and combustion chamber) determine the compression "ratio" and the longer stroke on the crank (3.75" instead of 3.48") changes the "stroke" and total cubic inch displacement.
why didn't you put in the cam thrust plate and bolts
Because a non roller hydraulic cam does not need a plate.
whats the torque on those 3 bolts for the cam??
I believe it is 20 ft. lbs. It is hard to hold the cam still so I usually just snug the bolts with a 3/8 " air gun. Use a drop of Loctite on the threads either way.
how did you get the cam bearings in?
I have a cam bearing installation tool. It is very important to get them in lined up with the oil holes and not crooked. It is also very easy to burr the edges of the cam bearings. I usually just have the machine shop install them after they finish the machine work; boring, honing or grinding the crank, etc.
+SanDiegoHotRod I see. im going to attempt a 383 build this winter. Thanks for all the info!
Hey I was looking through your striker motor build looking for cam bearing install. Did you do the cam bearing install in a video?
jonathan Clift I don't have a video on the cam bearing install. I usually have the machine shop do it for me. I do have an installing tool. It looks like a oil pump priming tool just a LOT bigger! LOL I think you can rent or borrow one from Napa or Auto Zone. Just have to make sure the bearings go in straight right off the bat or they get messed up. Make sure the oil holes are lined up properly also. Personally I hate installing cam bearings. D'oh!
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
What is the hp on that engine ?
Roughly 380hp depending on carb and exhaust.
LOL Awesome!
You also never put in the cam retaining plate..
Retaining plates are for full roller cams (roller lifters). The design of the cam lobes, drive gear and UNmachined end of the cam does not require or allow for a cam retaining plate. This is a newer Vortec block that originally came with a roller cam but this is OLD school flat tappet hydraulic lifters and camshaft.
u always need a camshaft retainer -.-'
Really? So the millions of engines built without the holes for the cam retainer bolts all need to be taken apart, drilled and tapped for a retainer to be installed??
You only need a cam retainer for roller cams.
You should not touch the cam shaft with your bare hands. Justb saying
it really doesn't matter
Most quality engine builders would beg to differ.
MOTORcycle
Begins by " i am just gona explain how a 4 stroke engine works quickly". Takes 4 minutes to explain it...
That's pretty fast. Have you ever read any of the engineering books on how a 4 stroke engine works? "Gas and air come in, burns and goes out" is not really a good explanation.
to bad this guy did not tell you that is not the full story on how to install the cam and chain. This is not the full information. If you do this you will drive your self crazy when you put the Disturbing in and try to get the Engine Running. If you want to know more let me know
spell really is that all you got to say. You do not not even know that you are showing people.
you are not telling them the correct way to set up the chain when you are done. Once more you show that you do not know what you did wrong or at least tell people what they need to do after they set up the cam as you showed.
if you find spelling fucks up i do not care. but please tell people what they need to know, I bet you do not know, if you do tell us
For the record I look for videos that can cause people problems. And yours is one of them.
SDNC Got it.
what you did wrong is not to let the people watching is that when you line up the two dots as you did, and most people do this as it is easy to make sure the line up.
the problem is that when you do this the number one cylinder in not on top dead center, in the Fire condition, Number Six is. Just check the cam lobe's and you will see what I mean.
yes the piston is up to the top but the cam is not going to let the number one cyl fire. The Number Six Cylinder is in compression, So if you use this as TDC you will be off 180 Degrees when you try to fire the engine. The Correct way to have TDC is when the two Dots are at the 12 o'clock. That is TDC on a Chevy Small Block Engine for number one cyl. Just a bit of information to know for the older Small block Engines. Pass that along for the new guys
+Gfdf Perte Geez. Really? I guess you are right. I did not mention that you had to turn the crank before you install the distributor. I also did not mention about using grease to install the fuel pump rod, or how to install the carburetor, or how to install the intake manifold, or how to wire the ignition, and so on and so on....
If you watch the second series on the "Engine dress up" I go through installing the oil pan, intake and so on including PRIMING the oil pump with the oil pump primer and installing the distributor which includes HOW TO FIND TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Many people change distributors without changing the cam and they just want to watch a short video on how to find top dead center on compression stroke and dead time the distributor without watching a 2 hour video just to get to that part.
Keep in mind that after installing the cam you still need to install the heads and adjust the rockers (part 4 and 5) and that involves TURNING THE CRANK over which would make the cam out of the 12 oclock position. Are you going to install the distributor BEFORE you install the timing cover just so you can have the cam in the right place??? Bottom line is you still have to align the dots to install the camshaft properly so you don't get the cam installed a tooth off either way.
I still have a couple more videos to edit and upload for the second series on installing the EXTERNAL parts of an engine, including the dist. and carb. Many people do install the dist. 180 out because of this that is why I have another video coming out on "FINDING TDC AND INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR"
I appreciate you watching and paying close attention.
Well you just told every one so My job is done. But remember 99.9 % of the guys watching do not know what you know and it is easy to glaze over or just not talk about items that need to be done. That is why I said to look at the lobe's and how a SBC can be at the 6 or 1 fire position when the marks are at Zero. Once you know that bolt on the cover and the pan and have fun.
For easy start when you install the Dist bring the timing mark up to 15 to 20 Deg BTC put the Dist in and line up the rotor with the number one post. This way you know you will start right up and have some advance when you start.
Do a video to show how that can be done right on the engine stand. The cap can come off when putting the engine in.
+Gfdf Perte A friend of mine used to set his timing with the timing light on #6 to to mess with people! LOL
I tell most people just use the coil wire. Fast and easy and the wires on the Timing light do not get hot. This does not work on EFI with 8 coils.
maybe not
pistons
wrong
this is not a 383
greetings from berlin
You need to watch part 1 and look up the part number on the crank.