Engine Building Part 3 Installing and Degreeing the Cam 350 Chevy Small Block
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2018
- How to install and degree your cam. Chevy 350 small block.
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Major props to you, Pete. You’re helping many aspiring mechanics like myself
Good luck to you my friend
I'm currently in school for automotive mechanics (Its the big school you see all the commercials for on TV) and due to COVID we are doing all our lectures and watching the labs via google classroom and we come in just to do the labs after we have the lectures and watch the demonstrations. I just wanted to say your videos are much better than the ones I"m watching now. I'm referring to quality and how well you explain things. Great Job, thank you for doing these and taking the time to make a good quality video that's really helped me quite a bit.
Thank you Richard, I'm happy they help
i think its time you ask for a refund from this school and go to petes garage university lol
I went to that school in 1988... Loved it.... Sorry to hear about how they teach today... It will get better soon.
I love the craftsman tool boxes, and the giant pipe attached to the wrench. This guy is me! lol
I have many fancy tools. My goal is to show how to do the work without the fancy tools so the average guy can do it.
@@PetesGarage The lack of on screen fancy tools are part of the appeal! Thank you for all the great videos!
***UPDATE*** Do Not make my mistake. After chasing no oil pressure on a fresh 355. We pulled oil pump Melling HV55 to inspect. Nothing wrong. I told my son to check bottom of pan for maybe we forgot a rag or something. He comes up with Timing gear teeth. Pulled mains /looked good/ pulled t-cover only to find half the teeth missing on lower gear. Culprit was 2 cam galley plugs pushed out of the front of block got caught in middle of dbl roller and granaided sprocket. For the love of god please taps those cam 1/4 pipe plugs. Especially when using a HV pump. Lesson learned. Now i have to put the puzzle together and find all the teeth.
Great comment, thanks John
Good call. Sorry u had to find out that way. My machinist gave me the budget package. I think I'll pull the cover and plugs and run a tap in there. Thanks
My favorite show! Thanks Pete
Very cool video. Thanks 😎 😎 😎 😎 😎
Finally....a vid on this subject that's worth a fu@%. Thank you very much!
Thanks my friend
Great video. Hats off to you.
Thanks Pete. Excellent content, tuition and presentation. Looking forward to the next installment.
Thank you my friend.
He’s checking the card to match up but the card represents what the cam will do after breakin
No break in, roller cam
You're a great teacher. I really appreciate your videos.
Thank you God bless you
Thank you Mike, I appreciate your comment
Thanks for the vid. Simple, straight to the point and you can understand it. You cut through all the horseshit. Great vid 👍
Thanks for watching
Great video ! Never knew how to degree a cam with those tools before .
I want to make videos that the average guy can follow. I don't need to impress anyone with my tool collection, I need to show you how to do the job with what you are likely to have.
Thank you for your videos . They are very informative and easy to watch. Keep up the great job !
Great of you to take your time to explain in detail.
A lot of people rush through assuming other people understand.
You realize the need to emphasize over explaining, Teaching!
I gotta say I LEARNED!
Thank you sir!
Thank you my friend. I realize this is not an easy process to learn or do. If the little steps are left out it can make it confusing and over complicated. I try to give enough information to be helpful without being too boring.
Another great video and explanation.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
Dale
Tasmania
Awesome! Thank you my friend
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU!
Thanks my friend
Watching your videos reminds me of when me and my dad was building a motor together
I hope that's good...we all learn together
LMAO
I’m watching this video cause my dad went for a beer run 17 years ago, lol
I always stand my motor on its back then you dont risk nicking the bearings also assemble the bottom end the same way never needed an engine stand
this is one of the clearer and easy to follow explanations on yt.
Thank you my friend
Busing watching the great tutorial videos,i really appreciated the quality of the videos....Great work Mr Pete.
Very welcome
Pete I finally got around to buying tools and part's and now I'm putting my engine together. But I would not have the confidence and knowledge. You made even me look smart .
Pete I would personally like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Happy New Year to you and your Family 🤗 👌
That's awesome Charles! Good for you and happy new year to you.
Thanks Pete ,great video. Haven't degreed a cam since I built my Mopar 360 15 years ago. Now the wife wants me to do her 327 . Well explained, had to subscribe.
Thank you my friend
Its really great that we have things like TH-cam and channels like this. Now Im no engine guy by any means but I am an instrument maker, specifically drums. Drum manufacturing uses a lot of trig. I'm working on a small block now and all my buddies talk about all these wives tails and say "You can't do that, You gotta this and You gotta that" and it's like, No dude, You're talking all this shit you (heard) third hand from so and so's brothers friend when all you gotta do is a little bit of research and realize it's not rocket surgery. I had my land lord over, he was trashed and I was doing valve lash the way Vice Grip Garage showed... Incredibly easy and he had a fucking fit because he's talking about all this equipment that only a machine shop has. It's like Man, this is the age of information. If Derek tells me it's correct than I guarantee you it's correct. I'm not taking advice from a 4th generation that doesn't even know what they're doing and half scared of it anyway.
So all that being said, thanks for posting and sharing. I appreciate that because now I can go out and do this myself and not have to deal with the drunk shit. I can now confidently do this myself... Drunk.
You're not alone, I hear the same things. People think their way is the only way. I agree with you.
excellent explanation, thank you for this simple way of degreeing a cam
Glad it was helpful!
Lots of great info to know.Thanks.
Thanks Rudy
I enjoyed watching this video. Very educational. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@PetesGarage could you tell me if the timing chain is the same on a 350 and a 400 cubic inch Chevy motor
I like your videos so much as a driver who learns to repaer my own car.
Glad you like them!
Whole notha level. Great stuff.
Thanks dude
this video was really good. appreciate your thoughtful approach explaining things.
Thank you my friend
Excellent just the type of advice I need I blew out my engine to a Chevy G30 was going to buy a new engine but now I think I'm going to try this
Right on
Thanks for making it easy
Thanks Cody
awesome work !!!
Thanks my friend
Hey hows it going ...my name is gino I'm from lynn Massachusetts lynn lynn city of sin they call it lol in any event I'm currently building my first engine it's actually in my bedroom it's kinda cold out ...but I really just wanted to thank you...I've always wanted to do it just never had my own project well 45yrs isn't to late to learn rite haha...I just wanted you to know you and I are currently building a sbc 400 based solely on your videos ...my friend gave me the recipe to get where I want to be ..but we you and me are stuck doing all the work ....I appreciate you more than you know making these videos I feel like I owe you for your knowledge ...your videos are so thorough and you break it down so a novice carpenter can follow you and completely build a motor from scratch your an amazing person for sharing like you do cant thank you enough ...I dont mean to rant im actually comment ignorant I never have but I just cant thank you enough just waiting on my degree wheel so I can get back to work...that's another reason it's in my bedroom I can just follow along with your videos ...its like cheating on a test in school ....🤫👍
That is awesome! You can do it. I wish I saw your comment earlier, I was just in Mass this week, I could have stopped by and said hi. Thanks for watching my friend.
Crap...sorry I missed you it's ok I'll catch you next time ..thanks again
Cool stuff
It's important to note that the further from the top you use the piston stop points when locating TDC, the more accurate you will be. Ideally, the most accurate point would be when the piston is exactly half way up the bore, since this is where the vertical movement (speed, if you like) of the piston is maximum per degree of crankshaft rotation. That of course, is a little impractical so we use a point reasonably close to the deck, but still, the lower the better for accuracy.
As Pete mentioned, trying to find TDC directly with the dial indicator is extremely inaccurate since when the piston is at the top of its travel there's almost no vertical movement over several degrees of crankshaft rotation, so it's almost impossible to pick exactly the correct point. Hence the "double stop" method used in this video. Have a look at a sine curve and you'll get a feel for how the piston moves in the bore.
Excellent comment! Thank you very much
Hi; is the same inaccuracy that all use when check for intake centerline zeroing the clock on max lift
Thanks for the great info
Thanks my friend
Great Job , Thanks bro subscribed
Welcome my friend
Great vid. The first time i assembled my motor we degreed the cam to verify that the cam was exactly what we ordered but i have since rebuilt the motor twice and the last two builders didnt degree it they told me it ran so it will be fine
Great Job!
Awsome job
Thanks Randy
Very good information
Thanks Derek
Good video Pete. I am a life long mechanic ( on and 0ff ) because of working in medicine. TY.
Right on
For a solid small V8, the 327 was a great engine. Moderate power for small cars that don’t have room for a hemi.
327's are pretty awesome.
I agree, the 327 is hard to beat in terms of durability.
Mate good hey from Australia love you show buddy
Thanks Steve....that's a long way my friend
Good explanation of true TDC (using your arm). Good video
Thanks 👍
I remember the episode of "Home Improvement", when Tim Allen had his arm in the cylinder bore! Anybody else remember that one...thanks 😊 awesome website for the various tips!! Gotta love the SBC!! Mine has been resting for over 30 years... I am on it now, Sea Foam deep creep is a great creation. Thanks for the videos!!
Good job Pete. A larger degree wheel and shorter pointer wire helps with accuracy readings.
Good tip!
thankyou sir, i may actually do this now that its been properly explained, building a 302 for an old 63 comet for my wife lol at least she thinks its for her
It's worth it, good luck Dan
Why is this not a dance move @ 9:39 🤗, great video of duration checks of the crank...🏆🤺🏁
I'm not a dancer....lol
It may not make much difference but I've been taught to rotate the crank CW for both .050" measurements when checking for ICL. This way the slack in the timing chain is treated the same for both measurements. Good video.
That is a good practice
I know everyone has their own way of doing things but i install the camshaft first before the crank. I find it easier to guide the cam through the bearings.
I can see that. The only reason I do the crank first is that if the cam is installed and a fastener falls it could knick the cam.
HI my friend. There are two ways to do it, like here let the mashine shop do it with the baring crings. But your right if i would do it I would also install the cam first. Cheers
Same here. Just made a rant and then saw your comment.
@@jimburig7064 I build engines for a living and I always install the camshaft first , mainly because if you have a problem with a cam bearing you can fix it before you put the rest of your parts in . Just my personal reason .
I refreshed my stock engine in my 1979 Z28 (I know, not a performance engine but I didn't have the money for my desire). Installed the cam bearings and couldn't get cam past bearing # 3. R&R'd another set, still couldn't get past bearing #3. Brought to machine shop and they installed their own set of cam bearings. I brought my cam to the machine shop, and sure enough it went in fine, so I asked them, what was it I was doing wrong?
They said, nothing. The casting was not machined properly and the #3 cam bearing bore was undersized in the machining process, which caused #3 cam bearing to "contract" too small when installed into the block. So I asked, what did they do? Honed the cam Bearing.
Kind of hokey for a machine shop, now I have 5 psi of oil pressure at idle.
It was easier with the crank out.
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks so much pete. i hope you have recovered well from covid 19, my father died because covid 6 month ago!.
I'm so sorry to hear that my friend
Thanks Pete
Pete I need to be at top dead center on #1 before aligning the cam and gear dot to dot? Can’t wait for more videos. I would love to see a video on sbc 350 initial timing for first start when and if you have opportunity. Thanks again for all the help and education.
That is correct
Your measurements were all off by a degree or less. That leads me to believe you didn't have your indicator set exactly in line with the lifter. Just off a bit in any direction will cause you to loose a little measured lift. This is exactly how I have always done mine and I believe it is plenty close for 99.9% of the engines out there. Especially a street motor... ;) And I don't think that most people even understand how much shaving a block can change the cam degree... Happy you pointed that out.....
Thanks Steve, I'm just trying to explain it, I'm not going to argue with people who don't understand it. I agree, it's plenty close enough, thanks for your comment
Loose is Fast!
When I used to build engines, the camshaft was the first thing to go in with the block upside down so I could reach in and carefully guide the lobes past the cam bearings without scratching them. Now, almost without exception on TH-cam I wince with every clank, clink and clunk as the cam is installed after the rotating members are all buttoned up. Just saying...
Would you be surprised to know that every engine plant puts the crank in first? Every assembly line I was ever an engineer for, that's the way it was done. If you are careful, the clink and clank should just be resting a lobe on a bearing. I have been doing it like this for a long time and never had an issue or found a damaged bearing during disassembly. There are many ways to build an engine and they are all right if you are successful. Thanks for your comment.
Another great video Pete. In the dyno video for this engine you stated this roller lifter cam is just a notch above stock. What timing would you set for this cam? For SBC 350's I have seen 4deg BDTC for manual trans and 8deg for auto. I have a man trans with a 1970 383 stroker with a slighty more aggressive comp cams with similar cam card. At 0.050" it has 230/236deg duration and .340/.347" lobe lift at I & E respectively. My timing marks have no numbers just A and R at the 4th tick mark on each side. I think I set the advance to 8deg after seeing most marks increment by 2deg. I read comments on forums stating that 4deg BDTC will melt headers so they recommend much more advance like 12 up to 20 deg. Do you need more advance for more aggressive cams? Does less advance result in more unburned fuel causing the headers to get hotter or are these forum comments incorrect? I don't want to run too much advance causing premature detonation. Thank you.
This one was set about 14 degrees ahead. You have an interesting situation. You advance the timing to get more power, but it makes more heat, so use a higher octane fuel that will run cooler and not pre-det. It really depends on compression and the cam specs so it's tough to make a general statement about it.
grate video
Thanks my friend
Great video. My guess is that you want smooth running so you selected a relativly mild cam? Thanks for posting.
Yes, this is a daily driver with only a tad upgrade in performance. Need enough vacuum to run brakes.
Nice i lerned a lot
Thank you
After all these years this still baffles me. Of course I took trade math in high school so I could get high at lunchtime....ah do what I want!
I took lunch
Hi Pete you know Jesus said is more happiness in giving then receiving you must be a happy man Thanks for sharing with all of us want to be mechanics.
It does make me happy to share
Great video, you explain things very well. I am attempting to find out the specs of this cam that came in my car. The car is a 1964 Plymouth with a 440 C.I.and a 426 Max Wedge dual quad set-up. I did not pull the engine out of the car but did remove the heads and intake manifold. Due to my limited space, (I don't have room to mount the degree wheel on the crank with the engine, radiator, etc. installed), I made an adaptor for the degree wheel (small) to mount on the distributor shaft. My question is, Do you think this will work for degreeing the cam? It looks like it reads direct cam degrees, so I have to read it @ TDC and BDC, rather than a full 360-degree rotation. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks Stephen, I don't think you can use the distributor for that. There really isn't a short cut
I love you vids. Thanks for sharing you knowledge. I am currently rebuilding an engine. Stock. When inspecting cam one of the lobes was pitted. My machine shop said not to use. If I replace with stock cam do I still need decree cam? An nobody ever tell LS what to do if it’s off??? Help please. Thanks again.
Thanks Ray. If you just replace the cam you don't need to degree it, just make sure it's lined up.
Nice
Quick question: what kind of tolerances do you find acceptable for crankshaft vs. crank sprocket dimentions? I have a crank gound on the light side, and am looking at an interference fit.
An interference fit is in the .0005" range
Subscribed
Welcome my friend
Hey Pete, I'm putting a new comp cam in an 82 Bronco, no machine work to the block, putting the cam in and some iron gt40p heads. Was just curious, what would/could happen if I don't degree my cam? I haven't seen you make any adjustments to any thing besides the wire, so just curious if I'll actually need to degree the cam or not. Thanks Pete!
If you're not machining anything, just make sure its straight up timing and you'll have no problem.
Yeah if you didn’t get your block surface decked then just make sure cam is in the same orientation with the engine at top dead center
A lot of street motors never get degreed cams. If your building a race motor then yes always degree your cam shaft
After top dead center when piston starts its down stroke, allow for a thousandths or 4 thousandths drop, then you can adjust the rest at distributor. Do they make a gauge that threads in the spark plug hole?
There are spark plug hole guages.
great videos. Really useful information. Can u make a video on how to rebuild an engine for a Honda accord 97?
Sure, send the engine and I'll rebuild it.
Hi Pete! first off all thanks for the time you take to explain the details and names on what you do. I do have a question about dot to dot, I saw anothershort film on youtube he would never do this because the engine would never turn over. What do he mean about that because i just you do exactly the opposite thing. Thanks again Pete
That's a great question. If you share the video with me I'll share it and let you know. Dot to dot is straight up timing. If it does not turn over something else is wrong,.
Hey Pete live the information.. but u wanted to ask u a question. I have a 1971 Buick Electra 455 engine.. it runs well all stock original engine never rebuilt.. I wanted to Kno how can I check if it's getting the full 315 horses it says it made off the lot.?
You should be able to get more than that, usually 1 HP per CI
What would need to be done if you needed to change the degree of the cam?
Preciate it brother ! I got a 350 I’m installing a cam in and this helped a lot and as is the difference in cam size the settings will be different,correct?
Cam timing will always be the same regardless of the size of the cam.
hello so I could be wrong but are you essentially just checking the cam specs. how is the information that you have obtained then used when building or using the engine I guess I'm trying to say ? cheers mate
This is just checking the cam. I have seen the wrong cam come out of the box. I do have videos about degreeing the cam.
Hey Pete, question about cam timing.if a cam has 4 degrees advance built into a cam grind.do you deduct those degrees when setting base timing on your pointer from factory settings with a timing light? Comp cams L79 nostalgia camshaft.having a hard time setting timing.won't run unless it is around 20 degrees BTDC
No, timing is about when a plug fires, not valve timing
Basically checking to see if your cam card is correct.I've never had an issue.correct timing per setup is what's important. I don't think that tiny cam with have any clearance issues
I have gotten the wrong cam out of the box. It doesn't hurt just to check.
@@PetesGarage I'll definitely agree in the event that your building something with a lot of lift with a high done piston. Pre detonation is very important. Correct timing is everything. I'm by no means downing your video I think you were exact and precise.I give it a thumbs up.
Thanks my friend
Hey Pete, how do you go about transporting the engine when you go back and forth to the machine shop?
Depending on the block I lift it, slide it, or hoist it into a truck or trailer.
Yep I hoist the engine in the bed of a truck using wood or a tire to sit it on.
So checking intake centerline just verifies the center if the intake lobe in conjunction with crank degree?
Do you normally only check lift on intake lobe?
Is there a way to check LSA and duration? Im trying to do this in reverse to find unknown cam specs.
Yes, I usually check both. Sure, you can measure form .050 to .050
Good morning do you only need to degree aftermarket performance cams or it applies to OEM cams as well, thanks ?
If you're replacing the cam it's a good idea to check, just to make sure they didn't throw the wrong cam in the box.
It through me off when you went counter clockwise. Still makes sense but I go clockwise myself.
Also, it prevents having to worry about the bolt backing out...also my Comp cams kit has a crank adapter for that reason.
What may be helpful for folks in the future is to use a long breaker bar or leverage bar to aid in spinning the crank over without having to "bump" the ratchet.
Regardless, I still like your videos man!
Great tips, thanks Mathew
Dot to dot at TDC #1 would in fact be the exhaust stroke NOT the compression stroke. It's actually the compression stroke on #6 cylinder. This is why the distributor tends to get installed at 180 degrees off of where it should be.
That is why I always urn over the engine to make sure #1 is on the compression stroke before installing the distributor.
Thanks
Thanks Arvin
Do you absolutely have to have the cam thrust plate on. The engine I'm using does not have it. So do I absolutely have to have it or can I put it together without it
Yes, if the engine has one. Some engines do not use one because the cam thrusts backwards. If your engine has one you must use it.
I replaced my timing chain and gears with a double roller style. I also removed the cam just to check it out. It checks fine. I reinstalled everything, and my question is, can my cam be 180 degrees out? How do I check this for sure. I do not have the heads off, and have never had them off. Thanks for any help.
Yes it can be. Make sure piston #1 is a TDC. The dot on the crank sprocket should be facing up. Align the dot on the cam sprocket with that.
I don`t agree that decking block will change valve timing in this engine. In OHC engine yes but not in OHV engine.
I think he's referring to the fact that it will affect valve clearance, which explains why you'd want to verify cam specs and how it relates to valve timing on the cam.
Let's really exaggerate the situation. Let's say you cut 1/2" off the deck, and let's' assume the piston will not hit the valves. The piston will get to the top way before the valve timing would at standard timing, therefore the cam is way behind and the valve timing retarded. In that case you'd have to advance the cam timing probably close to 100 degrees.
Well piston will be higher respectively to the block deck but the crank angle of TDC will not change. The only thing that will change is compression ratio and piston to valve clearance. Same if you put a stroker in there. Cam timing won`t change because of the longer stroke. TDC will alwasy be in the same crank rotation angle.
kitastan distance from center of crank changes for the valves, therefore timing does change
what are you taking about.... timing of opening/closing valves DO NOT CHANGE in respect to crank angle.
great video
when you round up 13 to 14 ... what's the max you it could be off if you should have rounded down to 12 instead ?
is it such a small degree that doesn't matter ? like 1/4 or 1/2 degree ??
When the difference is so small, there is no way to really make up for it
@@PetesGarage ok thank you !! live the channel !!
Tanks my friend
Pete can I use roller lifters and a cam button along with stock rockers or do I have to change those as well? Thanks again for great video content.
You can use stock rockers
Hey Pete. I just found these vids. I am not sure if you are still available to answer questions on your older vids, but I have one for you. Do you degree your cam using the lobes for the #1 cylinder only or do you check each lobe in each hole? I ask because you have confirmed the two lobes for the no. 1 cylinder are correct, but is there a chance the lobes may be incorrect for the other cylinders?
That's a great point Dennis.. You degree off #1, but you can check all of the.m
I heard you say that you always degree the cam, however I didn't hear you say whether it's REALLY necessary?? On all the videos on HughTube about degreeing a cam, I never see any adjustments made after the procedure. So it it REALLY necessary when installing a new flat tappet cam and lifters; and if so, why? Thank you!
I guess it depends on how much you trust the cam manufacturer. I usually check a few lobes to make sure the wrong cam wasn't put in the box. Also, for a more radical build I sometimes advance the cam 2 degrees, so you will not see any changes on most builds
Great video sir do you have a video showing setting the cam button thanks.
I believe it's the next video in the series
I know this may be a stupid question, but here it goes anyway. You said that when you install a camshaft, you only lube the bearing journals and leave the cam lobes dry because the lifter rollers have a tendance to skate running over lobes. Is this a procedure you do to ensure accuracy when your degreeing the cam and will lube cam lobes later. Just wondering.
Great question. If the lifter roller skates it will cause a flat spot on the roller. It will not affect the measurements when degreeing the cam because any lube would be very thin.
I installed a cam shaft on a 05 Silverado 5.3 I also removed the both heads to clean them and change my lifters as well, but I have a very important question about regarding my crankshaft, so after I finished installing the new cam with retainer plate tighten down and cam sprocket to 6:00 and the crank sprocket at 12:00 along with cylinder @ TDC everything torqued down afterwards I went to crank the crank shaft with a ratchet and only allows me to turn it almost 90 degree to clockwise and counterclockwise then stops and I cant crank any further on either direction this is not normal I can only go back from the 90 degrees on what ever direction I'm turning to I even tried cranking the crank with no cam shaft and still the same issue also my heads are not installed yet.
You'll have to take it apart and turn the crank until you find out what is binding
Hey! building an engine for my 1989 vett. What cam did you use? Or what cam do you recommend?
All depends on your budget, but you can go up a couple from stock on the same valve springs
a bit off subject, I am tearing down an old 66' 283 it doesn't appear I have a cam sprocket button or a threaded crank end. Will my replacement timing set come with bolts and button? also would it be wise to thread my crankshaft?
Is there a cam retention plate? Do not thread anything that does not come threaded.
Yes there are bolts with a plate similar to this. I ask about the shaft because I have seen it successfully threaded with a tool/guide that slips over the crankshaft end to guide the tapping bit and die centered. 66’ 283
If there is a cam retention plate you do not need a button
When you do the duration there no showing the gauge, and I think you are skipping some parts like when you count backwards.. plus wont going back and forth affect the cam degrees unless the timing chain is seriously tight? Thanks - ill have to sit down and go thru this sometime.. Ive always dropped cams in straight up
I have a couple videos on cam degreeing. I don't do every step in each one to make them all a little different.
You made measurements based on clockwise and counterclockwise crank rotation. So what about the clearance in the crank and piston pin bearings?
That is in a different video
Read no write? What do you do with the info you gathered? How to fix if off by alot?
I do write down the readings. If it needs to be fixed you make a move with the cam sprocket and re-measure.
So... I get that this the process of how to check timing.. What if the timing is off? How is the issue resolved?
If the timing is off you can add or subtract degrees by the keyways in the crank sprocket. If it does not have extra keyways you can add or subtract one tooth and recheck.
Great video Pete. But the part with intake centerline would be great to see also the degree wheel to better understand. But the big question is : what is to do, if my measurement has a bigger difference than 1-2 degrees at all??? Cam card says intake centerline : 108 and my measurements says 112. 🙄
Did you add both center lines and divide by 2? You can retard timing on the sprocket
I never degrees the cam.STD. installation always. My last engine I get 1100HP on the Dyno. I am happy amature.👍
Nice 👍
Hey Pete,
I have a 350 4 bolt 2 piece seal, 60 over, with 906 vortex heads. I'm installing a summit 444/466 #1103 cam flat tappet. Do I really need to degree the cam?
No, but it does not hurt to check
@@PetesGarage thanks. Watching all your videos so I won't miss anything.
@@PetesGarage also,
My heads are stock with the roller rollers 1.5 from comp cams. Is there anything I should be worried about with the same pistons you have in the video and my 444/466 cam?
I don't know about worried, just check all clearances
What all do you need to have off to do this? If you just want to replace the stock cam do you need new bearings or is it just as simple as Removing the old one and sliding in the old one?
Well, you need all of the pulleys, water pump and timing cover off which is tied in with the oil pan. You can take a chance, but the bearings should be changed. You'll have to pull of the intake to get the lifters out so it would be worth it.
Thank you, great videos!
i set my block on end and lower cam in to avoid scratching bearings with lobes
That's one way to do it