Camshaft Bearing Installation - Step by Step
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2022
- In this video we’ll be taking an in depth look at the process of installing camshaft bearing in a Small Block Chevy.
Previous video showing engine disassembly and cam bearing removal:
• Using a Flex Hone - Ti...
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Its important that the installer doesn’t bounce on the bearing. That’s the only mistake you made. There was a chip of metal coming of the bearing.
There should be a piece of rubber between them
I really enjoyed your video as it offered a different view for the install.Every TH-cam presenter seemed to have their little tips
which joined together make it easier for me to understand since I’ve never removed/installed cam bearings. One thing I noticed that some builders recommended using a special Zinc lube to oil the cam to help protect it from first engine start. They included the cam bores. I agree with your installation of not lubing the cam bore to decrease the chance of spinning. Thank you for your time in making such a good video for beginners. I didn’t think it was too slow just detailed.
I’m very happy to hear it helped! This video was intended for those who might be doing this for the first time. I did my best to cover everything I could! No sense in rushing - the main thing I want to do is give beginners enough information and a clear demonstration that leaves them feeling confident in doing it themselves.
As for the lube - flat tappet camshafts require an oil with sufficient zinc additives. This can be achieved by either buying the proper oil, or by adding a zinc (ZDDP) additive. I recommend going with the right oil in the first place, as the oil was formulated with the zinc additive package in mind, rather than an afterthought.
What you’re referring to is assembly lube (some people use cam grease on the cam). The purpose of this is to sufficiently lubricate moving engine components that may not immediately receive oil on first start up. It’s typically thicker than oil so it stays in place during and after assembly, as well as for added protection. It gets placed on the INSIDE of bearings, cam lobes, lifter faces, etc.
I recommend PennGrade 1 assembly lube (“the green oil”) and PennGrade break in oil. I don’t like cheapijg out on oil for break in, as it is too crucial to the procedure.
Hope this information was useful. Any questions, feel free to ask!
This is the exact sequence which the factory uses to install camshaft bushings/bearings, and which I have used for over 40 years. Despite my informing machine shops of this sequence, they have a'lways positioned the oil feed hole at the main bearing access feed port.
Also, I fit #1 bearing from the inside from the rear of the block.
4 o'clock? Is the hole at 6 o'clock? It's hard to see. I'm about to do my Jeep stroker and wonder exactly where to line it up. The block has more of a groove than a hole.
This was a great informative video. So understandable. Thank you
Well done, Sir.
Very nice video. You describe it very well
Wow! Look at the core shift in the cam tunnel, I do like the lifter bores on top being deburred.
I don't like "beating" on bearings. I've always used a threaded arbor and pressed the bearings in the bores.
I have the same tool! I bought it from e-bay at leat 10-12 years ago.
Great video
the tapered side facing the engine only when the first bearing is not installed.
Thanks!
Great Video, thanks! I am curious why a dry fit is used though. Is there risk of the bearings spinning, even with them being interference fit?
Good work, noticed some of the shell, probably stainless chipped, like 396 camaro said might have been caused by bounce, but repeated removal of the arbor allowed some into the bearing ID and bedded it in the babbit.
Appreciate the comment! The close up shots from the video allowed me to see some errors in my installation. I always welcome constructive comments.
I'm learning too, If you can, remove the block from the stand and work on it vertically ( with protection from the floor) helps alignment and reduce bounce ( gravity), also put the bearings in the freezer ( dry ice better) and warm the cam tunnels with propane torch (not excessively) @@BriGuyGarage
that was great lesson how to make the job done!!
If you draw a center line all the way around the bearing you can look in main oil hole and see how deep it needs to be
I have seen the #1 & #2 bearing being installed with the tool threw the back of the block and also blue loctite litely on new bearing.
If the tool is long enough, you can definitely get #1 from the back. Whichever feels more stable for you and the tool you’re working with. All that matters is that you get it in there square and centered with the feed passage.
The cam bearings are interference fit. They won’t be going anywhere unless something is out of spec. “Thread sealant” type loctite should not be used on bearings. Some bearing types require a retaining compound, but not any that are found in a SBC.
The oil hole should be at 4. This feeds the oil to the cam journal at the ideal point where it will naturally be pulled into the point of highest load which is at the bottom of the cam journal. All the lifters are pushing the cam down so the highest load is at the bottom.
The age old argument... Most engine builders and bearing manufactures go 12 - 2 degrees. Test show any past 2 degrees you won't have the oil build up enough yet. Takes a but of time for the flow to be enough. Now you run a high pressure AND high volume oil pump, you are correct otherwise the extra oil would wash out.
Can you put new bearing in with a he pistons in?
Could the cam bearings be put in the freezer(to shrink) before driving them in to prevent peeling the metal off of the bearing....GREAT video by the way!
If you read through the comments, a few people mentioned that the “bouncing” of the installation tool caused that issue to occur. You can put the block down on the ground or workbench, and install them by hitting downwards - that should eliminate the bounce. Holding the tool more firmly probably would’ve helped too, I’m sure.
But yes, you can definitely throw them in the freezer - I’ve done that before with transmission bushings/bearings. Be careful not to drive them too far though. Let me know how it goes!
How much it cost to replace does cam bearings on a 2012 dodge ram??
I have a question, I got a 350 vortec block and my cam bearings holes is aligned with the main bearing holes that you can see through the other side. I just want to make sure if it will get proper oil pressure if they're aligned that way.
Hello! Yes, as I said in the video, it isn’t a make or break difference having them lined up with the mains. I’m not entirely sure but Ive heard people saying their crate engines had them installed that way. It’s just something the bearing companies specify, but it’s possible that it’s simpler for them to like them up hole to hole on assembly lines or something. Either way, if your cam bearings look good, lasted you this long, and gave you adequate oil pressure before, you should be fine. A lot of guys still install them that way, and it’s a hot debate.
Just make sure you don’t use any caustic cleaners with the cam bearings still installed, or it will ruin them and you will then have to replace them.
Thanks for watching!
I'd replace them and make sure your 2. 3. and 4 bearings are positioned at 2 o'clock (8 o'clock when upside down) Front bearing at 11 and 2 o'clock (8 o'clock and 4 o'clock when upside down}. When the bearings are aligned with the main feed holes the oil film cannot support the camshaft from the pressure of the springs pushing the camshaft down because the oil is constantly draining.
I am using a stock replacement cam on my 350. Can I line the oil feed holes up? Motor is stock.
Lining up the feed holes certainly isn’t the worst place to put it, but I opted to follow the bearing manufacturer’s advice. It’s one of those “debates.” If you Google it, you’ll see for yourself. What position were your old ones in?
Are you sure? if the last bearing is 10 thou bigger than the 2 before it, how does number 5 journal get through shells 3 and 4?? I know on mine they only get smaller from front to rear.....
You drop the bearings in from the top when the engine is upside down.
@@alaskanadventures1164 That has absolute fck all to do with what we are talking about.
@@borismcfinnigan3430 oooook. Good luck bud
@@borismcfinnigan3430 oh i see he was wondering how the cam fits through the bearings during instal. Lol. It's magic! Haha
Is it normal that the edge of the bearing gets smashed that way 😮 Looks sketchy…even if it works
The only instruction on my bearing box from Sealed Power says to "Apply Assembly Lube to OUTSIDE Diameter of the Bearing to aid in Installation". Dry is not recommended.
Interesting, that is the first time I’ve heard the recommendation of applying lube from the manufacturer. Clevite says the opposite - apply them completely dry. Several articles and engine books say dry as well. What are you working on?
Hmm, interesting. I just ordered some cam bearings for an olds 403. I have never installed them before so I was never sure if you lube them or not. Would love to know what you are working in.
Bearing looks as though it took a pretty bad beating😢
WD40 is not a lubricant- use oil or white grease
I like your video...but your moving a little slow for me....losing my attention span.....you should assume your viewers are somewhat versed on engine building and move things along a bit more.