I wish I would’ve seen this video 13 months ago. My problems included hard to fill gas tank, engine idling erratically, hard to start, poor fuel economy and performance, and the truck cutting off while driving!!! I replaced both the purge valves and I finally cleared the check engine light. Runs like brand new again. Thanks!
I never comment on a video but today is the day! Thank you for your help, after watching your video I found out what was wrong on my truck and after watching your video 100 times more I decided to do it myself i spend 2 hours and 400 dollars to fix it and you saved me another $500 thank you amigo!
Great video. Very helpful. Good pictures. Good explanation and directions. I blew out my vapor canister, ran the tests, put everything back together...check engine light went out. I had a lot of sand in the system. Not surprising. I live in the Mojave desert.
Nice i got the p1446 code and i replaced the vent control valve and the light went away...A month and a half later the light turned back on, My favorite
I had this problem with my 2006 Xterra at 190,000 miles. The valves and canister were full of dirt. I drive a lot on dirt roads. Gas pump had been frequently shutting off during fill-ups. And "Service engine soon" was lit up. Having not seen this video and having a trip planned soon, I took it in to my local dealer for service. In case anyone is interested it cost me $650 which included new control valve and canister. My code was P0448 Vent Control Valve. Good video! Had I seen it I might have given it a try by blowing out as much dirt as possible.
The valve is $20. Takes about 20 minutes to do and rarely needs a new canister. You can clean the old one out but Nissan always tries to sell a new one because it takes less time to throw new parts at it. While under there if you throw the old vent hose away and replace it with a new one with the open end routed up behind the tail light it stops it from getting packed with dirt again. owner of 2007 xterra
Great vid Ry! Used this to troubleshoot the lines, valves, & canister on my 2nd gen Xterra. Turns out the control valve o-ring was leaking. You A, B, C tests were tremendously helpful. Thanks again!
Hey you're welcome. 😃 I'm so glad someone actually used the diagnostics! Thank you for letting me know because I always wonder if I should put that stuff in.
Hey Ry, your videos are a literal lifesaver man. My vehicle popped a p0447 code, noticed that code wasn't on your on screen list. Im assuming it's the same part I need, the vent control valve.
Reallyreallyreally appreciate all you do because you explain me clear and I Change same like you explain really appreciate it man I’m a painter I’m not a mechanic but you see me $400 thank you man
my 2004 does the SAME thing!!!! i installed a slip tank into the box. i WISH mine was as clean and NO RUST!!! like yours. Mine ALSO has the tire sensor light on. My 2004 titan never came with (or previous owner removed) the TPS Keep up the great videos
I know it sounds funny but try replacing your gas cap. If they go bad they can leak. That or check your connections again. Including the filler neck and evap hoses. There is a leak somewhere.
Thanks so much for this, going to give this a try on our 13 NV3500. It's supposed to be a van on a Titan base and is giving the same code, so we'll see!
Love the video, and I'll be tackling this project hoping it resolves the issue.. please make a video if you get to repair that annoying clicking sound... thanks bro
Great video!! very helpful. I have a 2020 Armada that had the same code and it turned out to be clogged with our south florida white limestone dust i drive one while hunting. I replaced the canister, valve and filter but kept the old ones since it was covered by emissions warranty (evap control system). Is there an additional filter we can install to keep the vent hose from aspirating all that dust and sand? its only a matter of time before this happens again and nissan created a TSB for the Xterra and Frontier. I even think they have something in the overseas markets for the Patrols (y61 and y62).
Hey, Ryan, I am looking for some tips. I have replaced the canister. The hoses, the pressure sensor and both solenoids and I'm still getting the large Eva. Leak code, also replaced the gas cap. Did mild smoke test and did not see any other indicators of leakage outside of the evap Canister filter on the vent port to frame?? Thought s D
Noticed as you were starting the truck before clearing codes that you had a "ticking noise". I'm going to assume it is from under the dash. My 2007 Nissan Titan SE does the same thing. Let's fix together....what I mean by that is you fix it and make a video so I can fix mine! Love the channel! Been a huge help with my questions. I also have a 2005 Nissan Xterra!
Had the same problem following a heavy Woolwax of the undercarriage (gas nozzle shutting off or fuel spit back out with only a couple of gallons in the tank). It cleared itself luckily but now I know precisely where the valve is and how to avoid it in the future. You rock!!
Ive had my 2010 titan since 2013 and jus hit 152k miles. I just got this code p0448 and followed the steps you provided and believe that its fixed but will drive around to make sure. My question is "Did you ever relocate the vent hose that goes inside the bed frame tube and if you did where did you put it and what parts did you use or would you recommend??? I look forward from hearing from ya, bc I really want to relocate that vent bc it doesnt belong there and should be better protected. Thanks for the video it helped a lot
@@Rythecarguyi found info on some forums. I took off that vent hose and ran a 5/8in hose from the vapor canister filter up and behind the driver side taillight. I then put a crankcase breather filter on the end of the hose. I hope this helps anyone doing some research on this mod. Thanks again
Thank you for the “oil catch can “vlog I already ordered probably it will arrived next week,but probably I have to replace my canister evap too,it looks like it’s hard to install,I’m new in your vlog but can you show also how to install a Transmission cooler ,my Titan is more than two hundred thousand miles now but still good hopefully. But I do the oil change myself after the warranty,every 3000 miles since then,synthetic oil regardless of the oil brand.Anyway I’m your new subscriber now,your vlog is really educational.Thank you.
I really wish you had a video of the part getting the middle hose off because I can't find anywhere how to disconnect this and I'm very frustrated haha My evap solenoid also refuses to go back in properly old or new... about to bypass all of this and say screw it
Yea sorry. It's a pain and o couldn't get the camera to see it. It's like a push/squeeze/pull type connector. If you bypass find a place for the solenoid to sit so you don't get voltage codes. If you do it let me know how it goes.
@Rythecarguy ah I feel the pain with that connector, took me a good while and a pick set to just get the little barbed teeth to open up, putting it back on was also a pain, they really could've used a different connector or just a good old fashion clamp around a tube straight into the barbed connector it had haha I replaced the solenoid and my problem of filling back up with fuel and having to do it very slowly is still happened which I suspect is the carbon cannister evap itself so I'll probly still have to bypass it. Was thinking of just using the vent line to the intake instead but that's just a maybe for now, I'm frustrated with this and most emission control equipment causing the majority of the problem on vehicles it seems 🙄
Did you ever fix the clicking when you turn your key on? Mine is doing that now, and I dont know what it is. I think it has to do with the heating / A/C system.
Yes it's one of your blend door actuators. They are little electric motors that open and close different doors based on what you chose. There are between 4-6 based on the system you have. I was able to replace all but one without taking out the dash.
RY, that's a great looking truck. Question.... Why was there so much sand? It was built up all over including in the canister. I'm from Texas and we just have mud. Oh yeah....and beer. (Great informative video too!!!)
This cars history is mixed. It spent time in the north (hence the rust, so annoying) and also in Florida. If it spent any time off road in Florida then that's how the sand got here. In my area we basically do not have mud. Just sand... and beer lol. Thanks for watching!
UPDATE UPDATE SEE BELOW I had to smog my 2014 Titan and I ended up failing because I had a P0456 code. I found the Nissan TSB NTB17-82a which states that the cause, if NOT the fuel cap, is the O-Ring on the valve where it has the bayonet lug where you rotated the valve off initially. I went to the Nissan dealer and the part number for the O-Ring has been superceded to 14935-JF02C. That little rubber O-Ring was quoted to me at $179.96 and $180.00 to install. 😳 I'll just buy an O'Ring for 50 cents and do it myself now that I know where to look. THANKS!!! UPDATE: So, upon further investigation I found out through a very knowledgeable parts guy that Nissan canceled the O-Ring and went back to selling the solenoid valve subassemblies which, by the way, COME WITH THE O-RING. Those subassemblies can be bought online for about $20 AND COMES WITH THE O'RING. So, I guess I'll be buying a $20 O-Ring.
Hey Ry: When you go to restart your truck I noticed that there’s some knocking noise in the cab. My QX56 makes the same noise. Do you know what that is? Is it an air conditioning valve or something?
Yes, it is an HVAC vent door actuator. I ended up tearing out my dash and replacing every one of those I could reach. I got all but one. www.reddit.com/r/NissanTitan/comments/oi6x72/time_for_a_deep_deep_clean_of_the_dash/?
Thanks for the tips. however, it did not help me to solve my problem. Now I have p1446 code (Evaporative Vac Solenoid Circuit Malfunction). I have checked voltage on Vent control valve and it gives me only 10 volts (should be 12). It appears Vent control valve could not operate on 10 volts. I have checked all fuses connections. No luck there. Do you know what module sends signal to the valve? Thank you in advance.
Look just on the drivers side of the top of the motor. It's mounted to the side of the of the intake manifold. It's look very simular to the one he is described. It has 1 sensor 2 hoses and 2 - 10mm bolts.
I don't remember the code on the wife's 05 X, but is it for an evap leak? It throws a code and has a real bad rough idle 70% of the time and then flashing CE light. Then clears up but the light goes solid. I've replaced the control valve and put air to the box, but it still happens.
@@glock316 sadly no lol. I did the timing chains and inspected all the lines, blew the entire system out. New canister and both new electronics on it. Only part I haven't change is the last valve before the intake on the front driver of the motor. It's expensive lol. I'm going to just check that valve with some 12v probes. And if it is working I'm going to just throw my hands up and drive it like it's not there, or until the CE light burns out 🤣
@@Rythecarguy 66k miles I had took it to mechanic last year he change the vent control value code disappear 6 months after code re appears not sure where to start next think it’s the canister??
I did this without disconnecting the battery. Now it won’t start up or even make a noise other than a single tick in the dash. I put the old setup back and the result is the same. Any idea? Shouldn’t have done this without disconnecting the battery. I’ve heard of strange Titan wiring things.
Haha these old meat hook have had a lot of practice on annoying connectors. I swear I could use my fingers for can openers at this point. It's likely has dirt or sand in the connection. Try gently rocking the connection back and fourth while depressing the clip.
@@Rythecarguy ....don't forget to press record while doing it. I would like to see how this is done. Mine is soaked with Mike. Hope it helps. But wanna make sure. Thumbs up man!
PB Blaster surface shield is a new product that shows a lot of promise. Woolwax has been my go to along with fluid film for areas I wanted it creep more and don’t have to worry about it washing off (like inside of panels and channels). ACF-50 is great for alloy corrosion and rusty areas. Seems to neutralize a bit more but washes off easier. Supposed to be safe on plastics too. Woolwax might have a tendency to swell open cell foam (might just be a rumor). I got some on some of the firmer less spongy exterior foam in areas between the door/fender but it doesn’t seem to have done anything.
12:05 the clicking sound of our people 🤣
Haha yes!!! I just recently fixed it. What a pain.
@@Rythecarguy if it's not making the sound... I would be worried 😆
I wish I would’ve seen this video 13 months ago. My problems included hard to fill gas tank, engine idling erratically, hard to start, poor fuel economy and performance, and the truck cutting off while driving!!! I replaced both the purge valves and I finally cleared the check engine light. Runs like brand new again. Thanks!
Wild that one little tiny valve can do all that huh?!
I never comment on a video but today is the day! Thank you for your help, after watching your video I found out what was wrong on my truck and after watching your video 100 times more I decided to do it myself i spend 2 hours and 400 dollars to fix it and you saved me another $500 thank you amigo!
You’re welcome, thanks for much for watching and im glad to help.
Well that was more interesting than I thought it would be. Never gave much thought to the evap canister. Thanks for the informative content.
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Learned something today, did not know that there was a replaceable valve on the canister itself. Going out to check that out now. Thanks.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great video. Very helpful. Good pictures. Good explanation and directions. I blew out my vapor canister, ran the tests, put everything back together...check engine light went out. I had a lot of sand in the system. Not surprising. I live in the Mojave desert.
Nice i got the p1446 code and i replaced the vent control valve and the light went away...A month and a half later the light turned back on, My favorite
I had this problem with my 2006 Xterra at 190,000 miles. The valves and canister were full of dirt. I drive a lot on dirt roads. Gas pump had been frequently shutting off during fill-ups. And "Service engine soon" was lit up. Having not seen this video and having a trip planned soon, I took it in to my local dealer for service. In case anyone is interested it cost me $650 which included new control valve and canister. My code was P0448 Vent Control Valve. Good video! Had I seen it I might have given it a try by blowing out as much dirt as possible.
The valve is $20. Takes about 20 minutes to do and rarely needs a new canister. You can clean the old one out but Nissan always tries to sell a new one because it takes less time to throw new parts at it.
While under there if you throw the old vent hose away and replace it with a new one with the open end routed up behind the tail light it stops it from getting packed with dirt again.
owner of 2007 xterra
@@user-neo71665 i know that now, but i am beyond the age that wants to crawl under the car.
Well, it’s good to know that you can use the evap canister for a salt shaker if you ever need one
😂
My 04 started doing this the other day. Gonna attempt to follow your video. Awesome video. New subscriber 👍
Thanks man! Hope it helps!
Great vid Ry! Used this to troubleshoot the lines, valves, & canister on my 2nd gen Xterra. Turns out the control valve o-ring was leaking. You A, B, C tests were tremendously helpful. Thanks again!
Hey you're welcome. 😃 I'm so glad someone actually used the diagnostics! Thank you for letting me know because I always wonder if I should put that stuff in.
Awesome, help. Just the fact of the sand clogging the hose, who wondered. Thank you.
🤘🏻
Hey Ry, your videos are a literal lifesaver man. My vehicle popped a p0447 code, noticed that code wasn't on your on screen list. Im assuming it's the same part I need, the vent control valve.
Reallyreallyreally appreciate all you do because you explain me clear and I Change same like you explain really appreciate it man I’m a painter I’m not a mechanic but you see me $400 thank you man
Youre welcome!
my 2004 does the SAME thing!!!! i installed a slip tank into the box.
i WISH mine was as clean and NO RUST!!! like yours.
Mine ALSO has the tire sensor light on. My 2004 titan never came with (or previous owner removed) the TPS
Keep up the great videos
I love that he says he gets gas frequently at the beginning. Made me chuckle, titans are thirsty bois
😂
Nope. I said the gas pump shuts off frequently.
Excellent video! Truck may be a flood car. Typically you can't sell a flood car without disclosing
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the information and great explanation!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
THX. the cod in my titan 2008 is P0455. I did change the parts after a 1 day run the light showed up
I know it sounds funny but try replacing your gas cap. If they go bad they can leak. That or check your connections again. Including the filler neck and evap hoses. There is a leak somewhere.
Thanks so much for this, going to give this a try on our 13 NV3500. It's supposed to be a van on a Titan base and is giving the same code, so we'll see!
Hope it goes well for you!
Love the video, and I'll be tackling this project hoping it resolves the issue.. please make a video if you get to repair that annoying clicking sound... thanks bro
🤘🏻🤘🏻
Great video!! very helpful. I have a 2020 Armada that had the same code and it turned out to be clogged with our south florida white limestone dust i drive one while hunting. I replaced the canister, valve and filter but kept the old ones since it was covered by emissions warranty (evap control system). Is there an additional filter we can install to keep the vent hose from aspirating all that dust and sand? its only a matter of time before this happens again and nissan created a TSB for the Xterra and Frontier. I even think they have something in the overseas markets for the Patrols (y61 and y62).
Hey, Ryan, I am looking for some tips. I have replaced the canister. The hoses, the pressure sensor and both solenoids and I'm still getting the large Eva. Leak code, also replaced the gas cap. Did mild smoke test and did not see any other indicators of leakage outside of the evap Canister filter on the vent port to frame??
Thought s
D
I should check if mine is like this, before I start having problems. Previous owner lived in Atlantic City and drove it on the beach all the time.
Oh yea dude. You probably have sand all up in there.
Noticed as you were starting the truck before clearing codes that you had a "ticking noise". I'm going to assume it is from under the dash. My 2007 Nissan Titan SE does the same thing. Let's fix together....what I mean by that is you fix it and make a video so I can fix mine!
Love the channel! Been a huge help with my questions. I also have a 2005 Nissan Xterra!
I am also throwing a evap code, which is why I watch and noticed the actuator ticking.
Haha I love the idea but I did that off camera one morning. Had to take the whole
dash out and replaced all the blend door actuators
Had the same problem following a heavy Woolwax of the undercarriage (gas nozzle shutting off or fuel spit back out with only a couple of gallons in the tank). It cleared itself luckily but now I know precisely where the valve is and how to avoid it in the future. You rock!!
Thanks Doug! Glad you liked it.
Ive had my 2010 titan since 2013 and jus hit 152k miles. I just got this code p0448 and followed the steps you provided and believe that its fixed but will drive around to make sure. My question is "Did you ever relocate the vent hose that goes inside the bed frame tube and if you did where did you put it and what parts did you use or would you recommend??? I look forward from hearing from ya, bc I really want to relocate that vent bc it doesnt belong there and should be better protected. Thanks for the video it helped a lot
You're welcome, I did not move the hose. I just cleaned all the sand out,
@@Rythecarguyi found info on some forums. I took off that vent hose and ran a 5/8in hose from the vapor canister filter up and behind the driver side taillight. I then put a crankcase breather filter on the end of the hose. I hope this helps anyone doing some research on this mod. Thanks again
Thanks for the info! Having this exact problem with my NV van
No problem 👍 Hope it helps.
@@Rythecarguy discovered the valve was seized in the closed position. Easy fix. I can gas up 5 min now! Again thank you 😀
Thank you for the “oil catch can “vlog I already ordered probably it will arrived next week,but probably I have to replace my canister evap too,it looks like it’s hard to install,I’m new in your vlog but can you show also how to install a Transmission cooler ,my Titan is more than two hundred thousand miles now but still good hopefully. But I do the oil change myself after the warranty,every 3000 miles since then,synthetic oil regardless of the oil brand.Anyway I’m your new subscriber now,your vlog is really educational.Thank you.
Glad you like it! I might be installing a new cooler when I do the VK swap.
same truck is mine white also I love working in my truck titan
👍🏻
Excellent work...thanks!
👍🏻🤘🏻
Thanks man
You're welcome!
How did you remove the middle hose on the eavap cannister
That’s all I’m here for!!!
Me to and nothing wtf
Same
Hi guys. I used a small screwdriver to leverage [gently] the 2 plastic tabs holding the pipe.
Thanks very helpful
You're welcome!
Where can I hook my smoke hose to ,too to check vac leaks 2006 frontier,thank 4 any help😎😎😎😎
I really wish you had a video of the part getting the middle hose off because I can't find anywhere how to disconnect this and I'm very frustrated haha
My evap solenoid also refuses to go back in properly old or new... about to bypass all of this and say screw it
Yea sorry. It's a pain and o couldn't get the camera to see it. It's like a push/squeeze/pull type connector. If you bypass find a place for the solenoid to sit so you don't get voltage codes. If you do it let me know how it goes.
@Rythecarguy ah I feel the pain with that connector, took me a good while and a pick set to just get the little barbed teeth to open up, putting it back on was also a pain, they really could've used a different connector or just a good old fashion clamp around a tube straight into the barbed connector it had haha
I replaced the solenoid and my problem of filling back up with fuel and having to do it very slowly is still happened which I suspect is the carbon cannister evap itself so I'll probly still have to bypass it. Was thinking of just using the vent line to the intake instead but that's just a maybe for now, I'm frustrated with this and most emission control equipment causing the majority of the problem on vehicles it seems 🙄
Did you ever fix the clicking when you turn your key on? Mine is doing that now, and I dont know what it is. I think it has to do with the heating / A/C system.
Yes it's one of your blend door actuators. They are little electric motors that open and close different doors based on what you chose. There are between 4-6 based on the system you have. I was able to replace all but one without taking out the dash.
If you go slow for the first 5 gallons then you can go fast again while fueling.
Just had to replace that valve recently. In my case it was stuck due to years of rust build-up. Not hard to get to even without removing the wheel.
Nice. Gotta love simple fixes.
Where you having the problem of gas spitting out and did this repair fix it?
@@akuacasemars2674 I didn’t have problems filling the tank. Just a check engine light (P0456) in my case.
Hey Ry I have a 2008 Titan it just threw a p0455 any idea what it could be??
Im thinking about running the purge hose to the front with a filter in the engine compartment
Oh that's a good idea. I like that.
There is also one on top of the motor on drivers side
🤘🏼
Did it do that constantly or did it go away after the truck was driven for awhile?
Mine fills fine but I hear a loud high pitch whistle while filling is that evap?
Yea might just be crud in your valve making a whistle
Could that cause my Titan to quit running after 20 minutes? I do have the fuel gush while filling. I do get a PO448 code.
I replaced the valve and gas ‘sometimes’ spills back out but code came back any solutions , thx for videos
Canister might be plugged :(
RY, that's a great looking truck. Question.... Why was there so much sand? It was built up all over including in the canister. I'm from Texas and we just have mud. Oh yeah....and beer.
(Great informative video too!!!)
This cars history is mixed. It spent time in the north (hence the rust, so annoying) and also in Florida. If it spent any time off road in Florida then that's how the sand got here. In my area we basically do not have mud. Just sand... and beer lol. Thanks for watching!
I see you have notorious blend door actuator tap the titans and armadas r notorious for 🤦🏻♂️ lol
Yea. So annoying. I eventually fixed it on that one but not in my green one yet.
UPDATE UPDATE SEE BELOW
I had to smog my 2014 Titan and I ended up failing because I had a P0456 code.
I found the Nissan TSB NTB17-82a which states that the cause, if NOT the fuel cap, is the O-Ring on the valve where it has the bayonet lug where you rotated the valve off initially.
I went to the Nissan dealer and the part number for the O-Ring has been superceded to 14935-JF02C. That little rubber O-Ring was quoted to me at $179.96 and $180.00 to install. 😳
I'll just buy an O'Ring for 50 cents and do it myself now that I know where to look.
THANKS!!!
UPDATE:
So, upon further investigation I found out through a very knowledgeable parts guy that Nissan canceled the O-Ring and went back to selling the solenoid valve subassemblies which, by the way, COME WITH THE O-RING.
Those subassemblies can be bought online for about $20 AND COMES WITH THE O'RING.
So, I guess I'll be buying a $20 O-Ring.
That's insane!!! Good old stealerships at it again
@@Rythecarguy
See my update to my original post.
My x has this code right now. My buddy ran the breather tube up behind his tail light. Poor design to put it next to a tire. No wonder these clog up.
IKR? Really dumb.
Thanks for the video! Would this process be the same for a 2015 Nissan Xterra?
Very similar.
Hey Ry: When you go to restart your truck I noticed that there’s some knocking noise in the cab. My QX56 makes the same noise. Do you know what that is? Is it an air conditioning valve or something?
Yes, it is an HVAC vent door actuator. I ended up tearing out my dash and replacing every one of those I could reach. I got all but one.
www.reddit.com/r/NissanTitan/comments/oi6x72/time_for_a_deep_deep_clean_of_the_dash/?
Thanks for the tips. however, it did not help me to solve my problem. Now I have p1446 code (Evaporative Vac Solenoid Circuit Malfunction). I have checked voltage on Vent control valve and it gives me only 10 volts (should be 12). It appears Vent control valve could not operate on 10 volts. I have checked all fuses connections. No luck there. Do you know what module sends signal to the valve? Thank you in advance.
Look just on the drivers side of the top of the motor. It's mounted to the side of the of the intake manifold. It's look very simular to the one he is described. It has 1 sensor 2 hoses and 2 - 10mm bolts.
@@bigtre9719 this Solenoid was replaced too. Still the same error code p1446.
Would the evap canister be the same on a 2012 Armada..thanks
Nearly identical if not identical.
I don't remember the code on the wife's 05 X, but is it for an evap leak? It throws a code and has a real bad rough idle 70% of the time and then flashing CE light. Then clears up but the light goes solid. I've replaced the control valve and put air to the box, but it still happens.
Did you ever figure this out?
@@glock316 sadly no lol. I did the timing chains and inspected all the lines, blew the entire system out. New canister and both new electronics on it. Only part I haven't change is the last valve before the intake on the front driver of the motor. It's expensive lol. I'm going to just check that valve with some 12v probes. And if it is working I'm going to just throw my hands up and drive it like it's not there, or until the CE light burns out 🤣
My evap canister fills up with straight gasoline when filling Up
Does this same part number for the control valve still fit a 2021 titan?
I’m sorry but I can’t tell you with any level of certainty. I would say likely not.
I replaced my control vent valve is it normal for the check engine light to stay on after you fixed the problem?
Yes, you have to manually reset it. Any auto parts store should be able to do it for you.
So I went to my auto parts store cleared the code it went away then when I started my truck again it came back on again
@@Trone-dog93 run it again. Maybe it's a different code
I ran it again and it's the same code maybe the part is bad? Or is it the whole canister or the electrical connectors are bad?
Have this code for 2 years had took it to mechanic they change eval control valve and code re appear 6 months later
You’re canister could be at the end of its life. How many miles?
@@Rythecarguy 66k miles I had took it to mechanic last year he change the vent control value code disappear 6 months after code re appears not sure where to start next think it’s the canister??
Could this help P1446 as well? That's what I'm getting
Yes, but with that code you may be able to get away with just replacing the vent control valve.
@@Rythecarguy that makes my life so much easier. Thanks
@@yungavalor3192 any time my dude, luckily that's the easy part! 👍🏻👍🏻
I did this without disconnecting the battery. Now it won’t start up or even make a noise other than a single tick in the dash.
I put the old setup back and the result is the same.
Any idea? Shouldn’t have done this without disconnecting the battery. I’ve heard of strange Titan wiring things.
Still finding more sand... who the hell owned the Titan before you?! Did you ship this in from the Sahara?!
Right?! That's what I want to know.
You never explained how you got that middle fuel line off!!!!!!!
How did you do it
How in the name of Zeus's butthole...did you get the damn electrical connector to come off????
Haha these old meat hook have had a lot of practice on annoying connectors. I swear I could use my fingers for can openers at this point. It's likely has dirt or sand in the connection. Try gently rocking the connection back and fourth while depressing the clip.
Dude your Titan is kinda rusty. Never thought you might consider this to be all right.....
I don't, I have to remediate it. It's on the list.
@@Rythecarguy ....don't forget to press record while doing it. I would like to see how this is done. Mine is soaked with Mike. Hope it helps. But wanna make sure.
Thumbs up man!
PB Blaster surface shield is a new product that shows a lot of promise. Woolwax has been my go to along with fluid film for areas I wanted it creep more and don’t have to worry about it washing off (like inside of panels and channels). ACF-50 is great for alloy corrosion and rusty areas. Seems to neutralize a bit more but washes off easier. Supposed to be safe on plastics too. Woolwax might have a tendency to swell open cell foam (might just be a rumor). I got some on some of the firmer less spongy exterior foam in areas between the door/fender but it doesn’t seem to have done anything.
@@dougm9007 I saw a video on PB Blasters new rust proofer, said you could only buy it at Home Depot. I'm definitely going to use it.