Very helpful video. This helped immensely with the diagnosis and undertaking of this job. I just finished this job and can offer a few tips. 1. No reason to take the HP fuel pump out or mess with most of the fuel lines at all for the PCV replacement. Just loosen the bridge line between the upper and lower fuel rails and take off the nut directly under the fuel pressure sensor. This is done from below with an open end wrench or crow's foot wrench. This is the only fuel line that needs removed. 2. The most helpful thing to make this job easier is the removal of the steel coolant line and bracket from the underside of the intake manifold on the driver's side. Once you remove the screw from the bracket under the manifold toward the back (it comes up from the bottom) you can slide the steel coolant line to release it from the manifold because on the front it is held on with plastic pegs that fit in slotted holes on the bracket. This makes it so you do not have to unhook the heater hoses from this steel line, and gives great access to the rear lower intake manifold bolt. You can actually see the bolt once this steel coolant line is disconnected from the manifold. I did it without removing this line from the manifold and it made it nearly impossible to get to this bolt. 3. It is helpful to remove the radiator hoses and the front heater hose and to pull/fold them up and out of the way to do this job. So, drain the coolant first so you don't have to deal with a puddle when you do the underneath work, like I did. 4. To unplug the electrical connectors, generally you can stick a small screwdriver into the square hole and push down on the end of the connector, and up near the catch on the connector. This is much easier than trying to squeeze by hand and unlatches most of them very easily. 5. Unless you are messing with the upper fuel rail, no need to order the upper fuel injector seals, as you won't be disturbing that rail. Overall, this was a bear of a job, but removing the steel coolant line would have made it much easier. Have fun.
When you were talking about the fuel I agreed with you but when u started talking about cooling hoses that's a no no , I wouldn't want to bleed the system its Tim consuming time is money bro but thanks for your input I'll try not removing the hpfp next time that'll save me time
Without this excellent video I would NEVER have been able to attempt, much less complete this difficult job. My Independent Porsche mechanic wanted $2,100 (included new valve cover assembly instead of just swapping out the PCV). I researched and added up $600 in parts and thought “I can do this, how hard could it be?” I WAS WRONG! This was easily the most difficult and frustrating DIY mechanical job I’ve ever done. I watched your video probably twenty times, took notes, made a list of the tools I’d need, then jumped in. Kudos to Pelican Parts for their excellent service and advice on getting the parts ordered (sorry for the plug, but they really were great). Here are a few observations (absolutely NOT criticisms) that I found during my job: 1) the heat shield does not need to be removed. It’s a PITA to replace. You can simply remove the top bolt and leave shield in place. Therefore, the O2 sensor will not need to be removed. 2) I agree that the high pressure fuel pump does need to be removed to give access to the fuel rail metal lines. Otherwise, the bottom rail cannot easily be removed. it’s nearly impossible to get a clawfoot and or stubby 17mm on them to loosen/tighten. I bought a special 17mm line socket that grips the nut from the top and it was very useful. 3) the Harbor Freight Torx driver mentioned is a life saver. Note, HF sells two versions. The cheaper set (branded as Pittsburgh) is around $15 and works fine. They sell a $30 set (branded Icon) that works too, but it is harder to use on the back intake bolt due to interference with firewall. 4) Although Porsche does not recommend any gasket sealant on the intake manifold gasket, I used a bit of the Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket for insurance. 5) I was able to install the fuel injectors o-rings without the special tools in the video. Thankfully, no leaks. 6) Lastly, I made some errors in lining up the hard fuel lines when I reinstalled them. I had small fuel leaks because of it. I had to remove and reposition them to stop the leak. By the time I completed everything, I was in for around $900 [Bought diagnostic tool to read/clear codes, replaced spark plugs and one coil that I thought was sending a code, misc. tools, etc). If I had it to do over again, I would probably have just paid the $2,100!
Absolutely fantastic video. There is no way I would've tried, let alone done this job without reviewing this great tutorial several times. As many have said in the comments, anyone attempting to take on this task will be grateful for Kevin taking the time to record and edit the journey that is this procedure. I bought the replacement diaphragm thinking that repairing the PCV valve in my 2008 Cayenne 3.6l V6 would be as straight forward as it is with the other versions of the Cayenne remove a cap and replace the diaphragm), and I was initially crushed when I finally realized where that disc lived (under the valve cover, in the rear on the passenger side). After watching this several times I dove in. In addition to the video, I learned a lot from the other comments and also from my own experience. Here area few items that may or may not have been covered by others or the video (especially since the video is about a 958, not the 957, which I have): 1. Allow MANY hours for the first disassembly. Once everything is removed, you will be able to more easily see where things should be and how to re-attach them, but it can be frustrating to get to some of the items when you have not done this before. case in point -- I made a mistake in the re-assembly that meant that I needed to remove the intake manifold for a second time. It only took me 2 hours, where the first time I did it was much, much longer. If you can allow yourself the time, it will cut down on your frustration. 2. Many of the items are in very tight quarters, making direct line of sight difficult -- especially during the disassembly. I bought an inexpensive endoscope on Amazon (get the one with its own screen, the one that feeds the image to your phone has terrible battery life) which allowed me to see into the nooks and crannies as I was going. Extremely helpful. 3. There is much said in the comments about the evil pipe (in the 957, it is black) that runs just below the intake manifold on the driver's side from around midway to about the end of the intake manifold. It's all true -- that thing is right in the way of two of the triple-square bolts on that side. It was super frustrating for me, especially since I didn't quite understand how it was held in place. Yes, there is a screw that is inexplicably attached from the underside of the manifold towards the rear end, and it HAS to be removed before you can move that damn pipe. The other connection on the pipe which becomes a million times more obvious after the intake manifold comes off is a flat bracket that is attached to/part of the pipe, around 5 or 6 inches toward the front of the car from that upside-down screw. You can't see the bracket before the manifold is removed because it is hidden by the solenoid, and also because it is tucked up to the underside of the intake manifold. It has two holes/slots in it that correspond to two screws in the underside of the intake manifold, so when it is described that you should "slide the pipe forward to release it" what is meant is that "forward" means towards the front of the car, and what will happen is that the bracket will be slid to the point where the holes in the bracket match up with the screws in the manifold, allowing pipe to drop down a little (you will need to push on it), giving you at least a slightly better path for removing the triple-square bolts in the middle and toward the rear. 4. Even more has been said about the "bridge" pipe between the upper fuel rail and the lower fuel rail. Some that have commented say that you only need to disconnect one end or the other, and others have said that the pipe must come out or it will be bent as you remove the intake manifold . I did it both ways, removing the pipe the first time I took off the manifold and detaching one end the next. I can say without a doubt that I should have completely removed it both times, as I did bend that hard line, which caused much grief later, and ultimately resulted in my having to replace that 5 inch long pipe at a cost of $59. I think that the reason that some have said that you can skip removing the whole pipe is because it is impossible (at least in my vehicle) to get at both ends of that pipe without removing the fuel pump and the two lines coming off the top of it. I also removed the fuel pressure sensor to give my fat fingers more room will loosening the bottom connection of that bridge pipe. It takes more time to remove all of those items, but for me it was just easier, and I lost any time savings because the pipe got bent. And another note about the fuel pump: on the 957 the Torx screws/bolts take a size 30 Torx wrench, not the size 27 mentioned for the 958. 5. Last, as others have mentioned, hoses may very well break in your hands as you remove them. As soon as I tried to take off the crankcase breather hose (one of the first steps :) it split in two. Same thing with the small, corrugated hose that goes from the solenoid to the plastic device at the front of the manifold. While it is not directly related to this repair, the brake booster pump lines are at the rear of the engine compartment. They are fairly hard plastic, and the ends will likely have split where they were pushed onto the barbed fittings, causing a vacuum leak. And while the valve cover gasket looked fine (I did plan on replacing it), the moment that I tried to pry some of it out of its groove it snapped, showing how dried out it had become. You can save yourself some time by ordering replacements for the hoses and gaskets before you head into this job. All of the above being said, it was well worth the struggle of this doing this job. In addition to the huge savings on labor, it was really satisfying to know that several nagging issues with this car were solved. I hope your repair goes smoothly!
Thanks for your awesome update for the 957. I have a 957 and need to replace brake booster vacuum line. I'm unsure how to access the connection at the rear of the motor? Can't even see it. How would you approach it?
Great tutorial, did it, ... three times! - gets a lot faster after each time. The whole process should take about 2 hrs (the first try took me over 6hrs) - make sure of the following to make it easier: 1. safety: protect (+) terminal on starter (otherwise might short as it is close to where you'll be working) - or ...disconnect the battery (little more work). 2: Go in order: Remove the hood piston - this allows to open hood fully - protect windshield with towel and tie hood to back gate to keep from coming down - this allows better access. A-Remove passenger side stuff as in video (no need to remove inferior 2 bolts on heat shield, only the middle top one - it all comes out together fine - no need to remove sensor either).B-disconnect radiator hose top (there is a metal pin that slides down), and both clamps from connection below, move out of the way (backwards). C- follow instructions as in video- make sure to remove fuel pump first (that allows to disconnect top from bottom gas rails which is needed to remove manifold without bending metal connectors) - without removing fuel pump it is not possible to access the connector. Make sure to re-connect fuel injector electrical connectors before placing manifold back (that called for the second attempt). Make sure that the fuel injector electrical connectors are not being pinched by the manifold when putting things back (third attempt!). Also, make sure to replace ALL of the gaskets - unless pulling fuel injectors out, I think you can get by with replacing ONLY the most outer o-rings on the fuel injectors (as opposed to all). Overall is a fun project, will need a T30 (I cut the one from harbor freight and used it with a ratchet - to make it fit better). Also, when tightening the valve cover- as above, need to do it in two parts, the first time around to 10 kN (all bolts), then again to 14kN (from pelican web site). Have fun!.
This is one of the best DIY for Porsche Cayenne channel. I was afraid to pull the trigger on used Cayenne and steer me to X5. With your DIY videos. It eases my worry. Time to hunt one....Thank you Kevin.
It is definitely a lot of work for just the valve. Most cars it’s a really easy thing to change. Just European cars companies like to put it there. Thanks for watching
Thanks Kevin - Feb 19, 2021 was invoiced $2003.54 for the same repair at Porsche. Diagnosis - PCV Valve in CAM cover leaking air with Codes P05070 (idle speed above set point), P2187 (Bank 1 lean) and P2189 (Bank 2) for 2016 Cayenne with 67K miles. $466.37 for Part 958-105-135-31 Valve Cover Complete because they don't sell the diaphragm! Watching the effort required made the cost slightly more bearable, but ... incentive to DIY next time!
Thanks for watching. I always wondered what they would charge. I never had them price it out. But I knew it wasn’t cheap and that you had to buy a whole valve cover because they don’t sell that valve. Thanks for the info.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage the initial verbal diagnosis from Porsche was confusing because I was told that it was a AOS (Air Oil Separator) failure, but the invoice said PCV failure. When researching AOS, it appeared to be a simple diaphragm replacement, not a complete valve cover. Guess the risk of separating the (AOS) cover (at 16:20 in video) is avoided by forcing consumer to pay for a major replaceable unit at $466.37 ... it certainly isn't offset by reduced labor costs to replace a diaphragm.
Holy moly this is a labour intense job… Used to deal with BMW’s where removing the manifold is copleted within 20minutes. This is going to be much more. Good video!!
Great video, helped a lot in doing the job. 1 thing to add, when putting the intake back on unplug those 2 top injectors and get the wire harness over the intake on the back corner and then slide hand under and plug those 2 back in. The fuel area was the hardest, but going back in was easier then coming out. 1 let down, to find out that it’s a VW engine in a Porsche. Thanks for the video have a great day.
Thanks buddy! I’m so behind on videos I have at least 4 to edit still. I just did the oil filter housing gasket on my Mini. It took 8 hrs and i didn’t even film it.
I watched his video and it helped me do mine! It took me 10-11 hours but I took my time and cleaned everything as well. I personally didn’t have to take off my fuel pump... only had to remove the lower fuel line that goes to lower fuel rail. I have a 2010 Cayenne Base. Good luck!
Thanks for posting the video. You did a great job. I wish you had made it 2 years ago. I performed the same repair on my 2009 Audi Q7 3.6 and it sucked. I used the same upgraded diaphragm. Reinstalling the intake manifold was frustrating and broke one of the vacuum ports and ended up using one that was sealed from the factory. I don't want to ever do it again.
At 2:40, you said that the throttle body and the surrounding parts were cleaned to check if the PCV has a problem. I am wondering if you took any "relearn" or "reset" process without PIWIS or a special tool. I heard that people ended up with an expensive repair/calibration at a dealership after they cleaned a throttle body. This is my next project since my 2013 Cayenne V6 has white smoke comes out when starting engine for 10-15 seconds (only in the morning). No coolant leak. It would be great if I can confirm that PIWIS is not needed after all these works including a throttle body cleaning. Thanks so much for your great videos. You are very dexterous!
I had cleaned the surrounding parts because if the pcv valve goes bad there can excessive oil in the intake. The way to check is the valve is really bad is by that little hole on the valve cover if its pulling a vacuum you definitely have a bad valve. I didn't have to reset the throttle. When I cleaned it I just wiped it down with a rag with some brake clean on it, on the inside. I didn't pull it apart maybe someone removed the sensor and didn't install it correctly or did something to the motor I can see that needing a calibration. But if you don't disturb any of that you should be fine.
I just completed this repair and wanted to provide feedback here. It took me longer than I expected as the biggest challenges are working in the engine bay on drivers side due it being very cramped and taking my time being careful not break any of the plastic parts , connectors etc.. I chose not to remove the fuel pump. I only removed the hard fuel line connecting the top fuel rail to the bottom rail on the back of the engine and only loosened the top nut and disconnected the bottom nut. I'm not so sure I could have reinstalled it if I had completed removed it. I cracked the back top fuel injector electrical connector while removing the intake and had to order a replacement which I found on Amazon. It's actually an Audi/VW part and it was an exact fit. The difficult part was reinstalling the intake manifold. After several attempts I installed it without the bottom fuel rail. I then installed the bottom fuel rail with the intake installed. It took me several tries and I had to remove another electrical connector on the alternator and wiggle it past a coolant hose to get it in. Reattaching the hard fuel line was tricky after I improvised with a coat hanger to slide the nut up the hard line to attach to the bottom rail. Thanks Kevin on the heads up on the RKX PCV replacement. I had to crank the engine about 4 times to get it to fire up. Car runs great now. Would I do this again, geez I hope not.
I’m glad you were able to successfully complete it. It is a pain. I too hope I never have to do it again myself. I think the quality of the RKX diaphragm is really good I hope it lasts the life of the car. Luckily that’s probably the worse thing you’ll have to do on your car. Soon I’ll be replacing my bad flex sections on both cats. I’ll will not be tackling it. I found a local tuner that has replaced them before that will do the job. If I had a welder I probably would do it myself.
I have this exact same year and engine and this same problem! I’m a little skeptical about doing this but I am going to jump in this weekend and try and knock it out! Wish me luck
Hi, what a helpfull video,ive got the same Cayenne and reasondly found some power steering OR automatic gearbox oil the coolant reservoir.Vehicle performance good ,no overheating and engine warning light on.Im very worried about oil
Thank you VERY much for this tutorial. I used it extensively for my PCV valve replacement and the only tip that I have is you might need to replace the PCV vent tube. It crumbled when I tried to remove it from the intake manifold and it's an $80 part from Porsche. You can simply cut off the ends and reuse them with some generic heater hose. I think a paid $12 for a generic hose with a 90 degree bend in it. I also managed to snap off the retaining clip on #6 injector connector and will have to replace it. I tried running the car but the injector connector wiggled loose after 6 miles so I get to take off and install the manifold one more time. LOL
Are their clips that hold the lower injectors to the fuel rail? Or the lower manifold/fuel rail bolts are the ones that secure the fuel rail to the injectors? I’m currently as we speak doing this job on my 3.6 Audi Q7. Thanks
Yes those bolts on the bottom secure the lower fuel rail to the intake manifold and then to the head. And the injectors are pretty tight in the rail it’s hard to undo that rail with taking the injectors with it and or damage on the injector to rail o-rings.. good luck and thanks for watching!
Wow I’m having the exact same problem thank you and I always google everything and there where no videos with this issue hopefully save me a lot of money god bless 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 thanks for a great video
Is it absolutely necessary to actually pull out the bottom three injectors you pull out and re seal them (starting at 11:05 to 13:27) is there a way I can leave them in the head and only replace the most outer three rubber injector o-rings with out replacing any of the teflon parts cause I don't have those special brass tool set you had to stretch and compress the new teflon seals onto the injectors like you did, nor would I know where to even look to barrow that toolset you had, and are the injectors seals also a culprit of the 3 codes the pcv vacuum leak shoots out , I have those 3 codes you mentioned along with an additional one p0089. Anyways what's your take about leaving the injectors in the head and only repairing the valve cover issues ?
Most likely yes. The lower fuel rail rests on the bottom of the intake manifold. The intake manifold bolts go through both then into the head. When pulling back the rail the rubber o-rings on the end the fuel injectors were stuck to my fuel rail and 2 of the 3 o-rings tore and 2 of the injectors has pulled out of the head. You might get lucky and they don’t come out and stay in the head. Maybe your o-rings won’t tear either and. You just won’t know till you get there. It’s almost impossible to get your hands down there to hold the injectors still and pull on the fuel rail to remove it. The few other people I had talked to that did the job before all had similar outcomes with the injectors. That’s why I did the resealing and didn’t discuss maybe or maybe not you will have to replace the seals. I bought the tool to do this job. I’ll probably never use it again.
Fantastic video, don't know why this never popped up in my recommended list before. I enjoyed your walkthrough and really liked how you point out all the tricky screws locations. One day, hopefully not in the near future, I may have to give it a crack on mine. I have the same model 958.2 V6 engine. :)
Indy quoted close to 2k for this on my 957 Cayenne. Needless to say I spent less than $50 for diaphragm, intake gaskets and value cover gasket. Job took 4 hours with motivation. Fuel rail was the hardest part being that I didn’t remove all the high pressure fuel hoses. Had to make sure it was not bent putting intake back on. Wish I had found your video at the time.
Yes because some injectors came out as i was removing the fuel rail. I had to install new seals. It is not recommended to reuse the injector seals. The seals that go on the injector where it goes into the engine are made of Teflon and need to be compressed to get the injector in. that tool will compress them so they can be installed. But you have to do i quickly as they expand to seal the injector.
I have a caynne 2013 base model. i have been having a white smoke occasionally and was told its the AOS that needs to be replaced. What you TH-cam on replacing the PCV is this the AOS?
It’s a term that use almost interchangeably but they are different depending the on the car the AOS on a 911 while is does a similar this is more complicated. The Cayenne has just a pcv valve. When there go bad the diaphragm starts to rip and then there is a vacuum leak. Symptoms are really bad idle. It will surge and and a check engine light will come on. I did not have smoke associated with my bad pcv valve. It’s not to say it isn’t possible. It’s a lengthy fix and isn’t cheap. Without seeing the car it’s hard to say for sure.
Thank you for that clarification. My cayenne 2013 when you first start no smokes. However, intermittently make white smoke in different occasions, like standing with my AC on for 45min no white smoke seen, but i shutoff the engine for 2min and 30sec later after i start i sow a white smoke that i cant see the cars in the back. Just wanted to know what coarse of action to take. Thank you.
Ive been watching your videos and let me tell you they are great. I live in the DR and I’ve been thinking of buying a used Cayenne 12 or 13 for a couple of weeks and checking around parts aren’t that expensive if i compare them to my current suv (4runner) i know its a german car but toyota is right up there in costs for parts. And all things a read about in all the forums and a can many say that the Cayenne is the Toyota version of the European Cars. What do you think? PS - labor here in the DR isn’t cheap but nothing like the US
Hi Kevin. Your videos are great, very informative and helpful. I have an idea. If we cat in the middle the PCV valve hose and instal there an universal PCV valve. What do you think is it going to work?
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage What tool were you using to put the new seals on the fuel injectors? Also did you replace the seals on all 6 injectors or just the 3 in the video?
Here is a link for the tool www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/fuel-injector-puller-installer-tool-kit/p-695a/ I only changed the seals on the ones for the lower rail. The upper rail doesn’t have to come so I left them alone.
On the Audi Q7 3.6 the ECT sensor is on the coolant pipe located between the firewall and the high pressure fuel pump. You can see it if you are underneath the vehicle by looking up towards the engine, driver's side.
@@LusoiHardware Thank you, yes.I have seen it ,not sure if it is. This location is hard to reach it. Not to mention to work on it. I think removal intake manifold is necessary.This sensor is watertight. without good access. coolant may leak out.
Hi Steve sorry I don’t at this time. Mine hasn’t failed yet. It looks like it could be accessible thought the drivers fender well. Thanks for watching.
I have been looking at scanners as I need to get one but I haven’t purchased one yet. Each of these manufacturers have multiple models which ones were you looking at? What I look for is multi car brand and it need to be able to reset the maint schedule not just the oil change. I’m still looking. There are so many options to choose from!
Move the driver’s seat through the entire range of motion using the buttons on the side. Up, down, front and back. The ENTIRE range of motion, it helps if you are not sitting in the seat when you do it. The seat memory will then reset and your Set Button will now illuminate in red. Now, you’ll be able to set your seat’s memory, plus an additional key specific, memory configuration.
Does the bottom fuel rail remain on the intake manifold when its removed? If so, then I take it that the injectors may or may not come out. With that said is it a must that I purchase the injector tool kit? Canbthe job be done without it? I followed the link for that kit and I contacted the seller and they said it would not work on a Porsche. Can you confirm the kit number? Im trying to figure out what I will need. A long T30 torque bit A 10 mm 3 square bit A 17 mm stubbie open end wrench A 17 mm crowsfoot Injector tool kit. Normal shop tools (screwdrivers, metric sockets, needle nose pliers) Thanks for a great post. I will be using it this weekend.
Fanatic job! Quick question, why do you need to remove the high pressure fuel pump? I’m asking because I’ve recently replaced mine and I don’t want to perform the job again. lol
Hey Kevin thanks for all the help + insight !! Kevin here also , 14 cayenne base. Trying to order rkx 3.6 kit but I have no idea if my m55.02 3.6 is a 1 piece or 2 piece manifold ?? Can’t find this answer nowhere ? Thanks in advance 👍
Kevin, are you putting some kind of sealant before you are putting cover? I've noticed you did add something but wonder what are you using and are you putting it all around the cover or just in two spots? thanks
I’m putting some silicone sealant at spots where two pieces of a aluminum or where there is a break in the seam. Those type of spots have a tendency to leak if not sealed correctly.
Great video, thanks for making this! It's beyond my DIY experience and desires, but if nothing else it helps knowing what kind of job the mechanic needs to do! Question: I understand that the oil separator is in the valve cover. Is that part shown somewhere in this video?
Thanks for watching. The pcv valve is that round diaphragm I start removing it from the valve cover at 16:16. That’s the part that went bad. All that work for that little part.
On average its going to cost anywhere from $600 to $1200. On the low end that is labor, parts and an aftermarket diaphragm still using the original valve cover. It they wont change just the diaphragm they will make you purchase a new valve cover. I would not use aftermarket one heard too many issues with those leaking over time. New Porsche ones are expensive. Labor can vary so it really hard to say exactly. Thanks for watching
Thanks for watching its hard to say how long something like that would take a novice. The book I think says 5 hrs. I bet an experienced mechanic could do it in less than three hrs. Maybe anywhere from 6 to 8 hrs depending on their skill level for a novice.
Can you share the part numbers for the gaskets and fuel injector seals, or provide updated pelican parts links? The current links don't work. Great in-depth video. I think the PCV valve just went. It threw a CEL, some codes I have never seen before (P000fa7, P00100d, and P001009 - "fault code not found in the database"), but I have that hissing from that hole in the valve cover so I assume that's what it is.
That missing from the hole is the sign its bad. When you cover the hole and the engine speed changes then for sure it is bad. There should be no vacuum from that hole.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage perfect thank you and thanks for sharing updating p/n. I think I’m going to tackle this weekend provided the parts come in. Called a Porsche indy shop and they quoted 10-20 hours at 175 per hour (and they want to replace the whole valve cover) so I have a lot of incentive to DIY.
hey mate thanks for the video. I have a coolant leak from the housing where the coolant temperature sender is located. the housing has three bolts that attach to the block. DO I need to remove the intake manifold to get to that third bolt? or can I just remove the high pressure fuel pump? appreciate any advice you could give.
If the engine is a direct injection engine it will be very similar. I haven’t had my hands on one to know for sure. But from the pics I say yes. Thanks for watching .
Really good presentation. I have done this job before, it is really a time consuming one. Question, do you also consider to replace those vacuum lines? I remember the one on the driver side that connects the actuator is really fragile. Subscribed, wish to see more.
I remember which one you’re talking about when I was taking it apart I was really careful not to snap it. I would have some vacuum hose around for repairs when doing something like that
Hello, I have a cayenne turbo 4.5, it starts very cold, it starts very hot if it is not stopped for more than 10 or 15 minutes, if there is more time stopped it takes 10 seconds to start and it does so as if it were drowned with fuel, and replace the crankshaft position sensors and camshafts, repair the pcv valve, check the canister, bovines, spark plugs, maf, everything is ok, there are no errors when scanning, something curious if I inject air through the canister hose to the intake manifold, it turns on well, the truth is that I have fried, something similar happened to you? Thank you very much in advance, greetings from Argentina
Thanks for watching from Argentina! I looks like you have covered a lot of stuff there. I’ve heard for vacuum lines cracking on this engine have you checked your to make sure there isn’t any cracks? Also I would check the fuel pump. Sounds like you don’t have pressure right away. I would check the pressure when it does this. Other than that I don’t have much more to go on. I haven’t had any issues like that with my car. It hard to diagnose with out the car. But if you haven’t checked that yet. That’s the next thing I would check.. Good luck let us know how it checks out.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thanks for answering, check all the vacuum lines and they are fine, the idle is stable, I also connected the pumps so that they start when contacting and it did not work either, the only thing that worked is to send compressed air through the intake manifold, it is very rare when It is extremely cold it also starts fast, it is as if it suffocates with oil vapors, the engine does not have oil consumption either
I have never encountered something like this with mine. But I have heard weird things happening with the evap system on others cars causing hard starts. I’m trying to remember but I can’t, it was over a decade ago that I heard this. Maybe try removing the gas cap and see what happens. At this point I would be in the same situation as you. I would be looking through some forums to see if anyone else has had this issue.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I already tried everything you can imagine, I also spent a month in an exclusive electronics workshop, I do the mechanical part in my private workshop but electronics is limited for me, they also did not find anything, so I consult I think the only thing that can help me is that some other user has the same thing happened to him, it happens that it is embarrassing that a porsche takes time to turn on
Hi! How do you get to the left lower bolt of the high-pressure fuel pump? I've been trying to unscrew that bolt for couple hours... That hose in front of that bolt just blocked everything, I'm so frustrated...
There is a water tube that’s under the intake manifold that’s held on by one screw and slides to the left to release it from the tab. That has to be pushed aside before you can take off the fuel pump. I take it off starting at 5:46. It was really hard to film everything that happened down there no room at all
Kevin’s European Garage I wish I could just followed your steps. I skipped that bracket, and end up stripped that T27 screw on the fuel pump. Is there a way I can go around without taking of that fuel pump? I’m replacing the intake manifold
I will have to take a look at my car tomorrow to see if you could work around it. I think the issue is the lower fuel rail is too close to the fuel pump. Another thing you could try is if you have enough room, put the torx bit in the bolt even though it is rounded off I bet there is a little left put a short extension on the bit and try and tap it with a hammer into the bolt. You might be able to straighten out the slots in the bolt and the shock might losen up the bolt and make it easier to break free.
Kevin’s European Garage I wasted way too much time fighting that T27 screw. It’s completely rounded off, I even tried screw extractor and it didn’t work. So the only thing preventing me from pulling off the intake manifold is the lower fuel rail? I’ve already unscrew other bolts, the T30s and tripesquares
The P695a is the kit I used. You don’t need all the parts. Mainly the brush to clean the injector holes and the parts to install the seal and compress them so you can slide the inject back in before the Teflon expands again. I did buy a couple extra seal kits. I didn’t need them but I came close to needing one.
I have the same engine (manual transmission) and my idle is really up and down and all over. I don't have any noise coming from the pinhole you describe and there is no change when I put my finger on it. I do feel suction on my finger from the pinhole. Is it possible that my PCV valve is fine and the rough idle is coming from someplace else? if I remove my oil filler cap when the engine is idling, there is a huge amount of suction trying to keep that oil filler cap on the manifold. the dipstick tube has a huge amount of suction as well. Nice video!!!
I'll double check my car tomorrow but I believe there shouldn't be any vacuum coming from that hole. Its possible your diaphragm doesn't have a very bad break. Mine was quite torn. Thanks for watching!
I have looked everywhere for the torque values of the three M10 that hold that lower fuel rail and injectors in and unfortunatly that is where your video cut out. Do you have those values?
Hi Kevin, I am a beginner. Really good presentation, how do you suggest to start learning Porsche? I have Cayenne. I noticed that majority of mechanics do not want to work on it since it has a lot of specifics/unique issues. Are the diagrams and schematics you can recommend for Porsche Cayenne may be? I am currently trying to fix 2187 and 2189 codes plus engine misfire (even though i changed coils and spark plugs). Thanks much.
I use alldata it has all the diagrams basically the factory service manual for the car. Have you checked the low pressure pump? It noted that as a possible issue along with fuel leaks. Possible issue with voltage too.
Hi Kevin, i have cayenne 958 92A same engine like your car and idle is unstable, i use scan tools and got the code p050700,p218700 and p218900 is that mean my car have the same issue like yours need to replace pcv valve? Thanks
Because there are two separate fuel rails an upper and lower. The lower gets removed while the upper remains bolted to the head and doesn’t need to be removed. Thanks for watching !
Well there are three temp sensors. The one for the computer is in the front of the engine next to the alternator. That’s for the computer. The one for the gauge is at the back of the engine on the coolant pipes to the right of the intake manifold when looking at it from the left front tire. The other is for the fans. I’m unsure of when that one is
did you remove the lower fuel rail when you detached manifold? i am having difficult time aligning high pressure fuel connection when i put back the manifold
Thanks! I think the book says the job takes 6 hrs and the parts are around $150. Then what ever the current labor rate is in your area. I'm not sure what that is around Boston
There is a hard line that I couldn't get a wrench on or a crows foot. The fuel pump was in the way as soon as I removed that then I was able to remove the line. The line was for the lower fuel rail I believe..
Sorry I only work on my personal vehicles I do not have a garage to work on other peoples cars. I barely have enough time to work on my own stuff right now. A good garage in the Boston area that is reasonably priced is RayTeam Auto in Waltham. They did my exhaust I am happy with their work
This is a stupid engine design that requires to take the whole god damn engine apart to replace a finicky $4 plastic valve. Most other Porsche engines have this valve right outside the engine cover at the top where any kid can replace it in 5 mins.. smh
Yeah I wasn’t too happy when I had to do this. You can’t buy the valve from Porsche you have to buy the whole cover $400. This is definitely a time where engineering went to far.
the video would be great if it identified WHY certain seqence is followed. for example, it does not outline why do you need to remove the fuel pump, as it seems unnccessary. points to note while assembling back: 1. pay attention to injector wiring harness not to be pinched under the intake 2. be careful not to break off fuel pump sensor at the bottom. 3. handle the common rail with extra care not to break sensor on the rightmost side. 4. pay attention not to bend the bottom fuel line (metal) as reassembly may be impossible 5. the t30 torx need to be at least 6.25in long 6. the job will be that much easier if you remove the coolant hoses, while servicing thermostat, water pump, etc., but nit mandatory.
I don’t know anyone in NYC that i could send you to. The closest place I that i know the people at is The Shop CT in Stratford CT its a long drive but they do good work and you can take the metro north RR back to nyc.
The book time is 3.5 hrs which I think is a little low so they might come back with 4.5. So depends on the labor rate where you live. If you change the valve cover your looking at $600 est. in parts. If you do what I did I think I spent less than $200 in parts. But that should give you an idea of what to expect.
Kevin’s European Garage I have my car in the shop now, for what the mechanic believes this is the problem. Did you have a like a rumble at idle and at take off?
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage 2013 VW Touareg V6 lux gas. P2189 lean bank 2 idle. Check engine and epc light is both on. That hole is sucking in air continually. I’m afraid it’s the pcv diaphragm
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I removed the hose from the breather box and plugged it. For short term fix car is idling fine now. Cel and cpc lights still on with limp mode.
Very helpful video. This helped immensely with the diagnosis and undertaking of this job. I just finished this job and can offer a few tips. 1. No reason to take the HP fuel pump out or mess with most of the fuel lines at all for the PCV replacement. Just loosen the bridge line between the upper and lower fuel rails and take off the nut directly under the fuel pressure sensor. This is done from below with an open end wrench or crow's foot wrench. This is the only fuel line that needs removed. 2. The most helpful thing to make this job easier is the removal of the steel coolant line and bracket from the underside of the intake manifold on the driver's side. Once you remove the screw from the bracket under the manifold toward the back (it comes up from the bottom) you can slide the steel coolant line to release it from the manifold because on the front it is held on with plastic pegs that fit in slotted holes on the bracket. This makes it so you do not have to unhook the heater hoses from this steel line, and gives great access to the rear lower intake manifold bolt. You can actually see the bolt once this steel coolant line is disconnected from the manifold. I did it without removing this line from the manifold and it made it nearly impossible to get to this bolt. 3. It is helpful to remove the radiator hoses and the front heater hose and to pull/fold them up and out of the way to do this job. So, drain the coolant first so you don't have to deal with a puddle when you do the underneath work, like I did. 4. To unplug the electrical connectors, generally you can stick a small screwdriver into the square hole and push down on the end of the connector, and up near the catch on the connector. This is much easier than trying to squeeze by hand and unlatches most of them very easily. 5. Unless you are messing with the upper fuel rail, no need to order the upper fuel injector seals, as you won't be disturbing that rail. Overall, this was a bear of a job, but removing the steel coolant line would have made it much easier. Have fun.
Lol. I don't think I'll be doing this one myself.
It’s a tough job to do
When you were talking about the fuel I agreed with you but when u started talking about cooling hoses that's a no no , I wouldn't want to bleed the system its Tim consuming time is money bro but thanks for your input I'll try not removing the hpfp next time that'll save me time
Without this excellent video I would NEVER have been able to attempt, much less complete this difficult job. My Independent Porsche mechanic wanted $2,100 (included new valve cover assembly instead of just swapping out the PCV). I researched and added up $600 in parts and thought “I can do this, how hard could it be?” I WAS WRONG! This was easily the most difficult and frustrating DIY mechanical job I’ve ever done. I watched your video probably twenty times, took notes, made a list of the tools I’d need, then jumped in. Kudos to Pelican Parts for their excellent service and advice on getting the parts ordered (sorry for the plug, but they really were great). Here are a few observations (absolutely NOT criticisms) that I found during my job: 1) the heat shield does not need to be removed. It’s a PITA to replace. You can simply remove the top bolt and leave shield in place. Therefore, the O2 sensor will not need to be removed. 2) I agree that the high pressure fuel pump does need to be removed to give access to the fuel rail metal lines. Otherwise, the bottom rail cannot easily be removed. it’s nearly impossible to get a clawfoot and or stubby 17mm on them to loosen/tighten. I bought a special 17mm line socket that grips the nut from the top and it was very useful. 3) the Harbor Freight Torx driver mentioned is a life saver. Note, HF sells two versions. The cheaper set (branded as Pittsburgh) is around $15 and works fine. They sell a $30 set (branded Icon) that works too, but it is harder to use on the back intake bolt due to interference with firewall. 4) Although Porsche does not recommend any gasket sealant on the intake manifold gasket, I used a bit of the Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket for insurance. 5) I was able to install the fuel injectors o-rings without the special tools in the video. Thankfully, no leaks. 6) Lastly, I made some errors in lining up the hard fuel lines when I reinstalled them. I had small fuel leaks because of it. I had to remove and reposition them to stop the leak. By the time I completed everything, I was in for around $900 [Bought diagnostic tool to read/clear codes, replaced spark plugs and one coil that I thought was sending a code, misc. tools, etc). If I had it to do over again, I would probably have just paid the $2,100!
Jobs like this one make everything seem so much easier afterwards 😊
Any tips on how you got the lower upper fuel rail line aligned properly I’m also running into a fuel leak problem
This video needed better lighting
Absolutely fantastic video. There is no way I would've tried, let alone done this job without reviewing this great tutorial several times. As many have said in the comments, anyone attempting to take on this task will be grateful for Kevin taking the time to record and edit the journey that is this procedure. I bought the replacement diaphragm thinking that repairing the PCV valve in my 2008 Cayenne 3.6l V6 would be as straight forward as it is with the other versions of the Cayenne remove a cap and replace the diaphragm), and I was initially crushed when I finally realized where that disc lived (under the valve cover, in the rear on the passenger side). After watching this several times I dove in. In addition to the video, I learned a lot from the other comments and also from my own experience. Here area few items that may or may not have been covered by others or the video (especially since the video is about a 958, not the 957, which I have):
1. Allow MANY hours for the first disassembly. Once everything is removed, you will be able to more easily see where things should be and how to re-attach them, but it can be frustrating to get to some of the items when you have not done this before. case in point -- I made a mistake in the re-assembly that meant that I needed to remove the intake manifold for a second time. It only took me 2 hours, where the first time I did it was much, much longer. If you can allow yourself the time, it will cut down on your frustration.
2. Many of the items are in very tight quarters, making direct line of sight difficult -- especially during the disassembly. I bought an inexpensive endoscope on Amazon (get the one with its own screen, the one that feeds the image to your phone has terrible battery life) which allowed me to see into the nooks and crannies as I was going. Extremely helpful.
3. There is much said in the comments about the evil pipe (in the 957, it is black) that runs just below the intake manifold on the driver's side from around midway to about the end of the intake manifold. It's all true -- that thing is right in the way of two of the triple-square bolts on that side. It was super frustrating for me, especially since I didn't quite understand how it was held in place. Yes, there is a screw that is inexplicably attached from the underside of the manifold towards the rear end, and it HAS to be removed before you can move that damn pipe. The other connection on the pipe which becomes a million times more obvious after the intake manifold comes off is a flat bracket that is attached to/part of the pipe, around 5 or 6 inches toward the front of the car from that upside-down screw. You can't see the bracket before the manifold is removed because it is hidden by the solenoid, and also because it is tucked up to the underside of the intake manifold. It has two holes/slots in it that correspond to two screws in the underside of the intake manifold, so when it is described that you should "slide the pipe forward to release it" what is meant is that "forward" means towards the front of the car, and what will happen is that the bracket will be slid to the point where the holes in the bracket match up with the screws in the manifold, allowing pipe to drop down a little (you will need to push on it), giving you at least a slightly better path for removing the triple-square bolts in the middle and toward the rear.
4. Even more has been said about the "bridge" pipe between the upper fuel rail and the lower fuel rail. Some that have commented say that you only need to disconnect one end or the other, and others have said that the pipe must come out or it will be bent as you remove the intake manifold . I did it both ways, removing the pipe the first time I took off the manifold and detaching one end the next. I can say without a doubt that I should have completely removed it both times, as I did bend that hard line, which caused much grief later, and ultimately resulted in my having to replace that 5 inch long pipe at a cost of $59. I think that the reason that some have said that you can skip removing the whole pipe is because it is impossible (at least in my vehicle) to get at both ends of that pipe without removing the fuel pump and the two lines coming off the top of it. I also removed the fuel pressure sensor to give my fat fingers more room will loosening the bottom connection of that bridge pipe. It takes more time to remove all of those items, but for me it was just easier, and I lost any time savings because the pipe got bent. And another note about the fuel pump: on the 957 the Torx screws/bolts take a size 30 Torx wrench, not the size 27 mentioned for the 958.
5. Last, as others have mentioned, hoses may very well break in your hands as you remove them. As soon as I tried to take off the crankcase breather hose (one of the first steps :) it split in two. Same thing with the small, corrugated hose that goes from the solenoid to the plastic device at the front of the manifold. While it is not directly related to this repair, the brake booster pump lines are at the rear of the engine compartment. They are fairly hard plastic, and the ends will likely have split where they were pushed onto the barbed fittings, causing a vacuum leak. And while the valve cover gasket looked fine (I did plan on replacing it), the moment that I tried to pry some of it out of its groove it snapped, showing how dried out it had become. You can save yourself some time by ordering replacements for the hoses and gaskets before you head into this job.
All of the above being said, it was well worth the struggle of this doing this job. In addition to the huge savings on labor, it was really satisfying to know that several nagging issues with this car were solved. I hope your repair goes smoothly!
Thanks for your awesome update for the 957. I have a 957 and need to replace brake booster vacuum line. I'm unsure how to access the connection at the rear of the motor? Can't even see it. How would you approach it?
Great tutorial, did it, ... three times! - gets a lot faster after each time. The whole process should take about 2 hrs (the first try took me over 6hrs) - make sure of the following to make it easier: 1. safety: protect (+) terminal on starter (otherwise might short as it is close to where you'll be working) - or ...disconnect the battery (little more work). 2: Go in order: Remove the hood piston - this allows to open hood fully - protect windshield with towel and tie hood to back gate to keep from coming down - this allows better access. A-Remove passenger side stuff as in video (no need to remove inferior 2 bolts on heat shield, only the middle top one - it all comes out together fine - no need to remove sensor either).B-disconnect radiator hose top (there is a metal pin that slides down), and both clamps from connection below, move out of the way (backwards). C- follow instructions as in video- make sure to remove fuel pump first (that allows to disconnect top from bottom gas rails which is needed to remove manifold without bending metal connectors) - without removing fuel pump it is not possible to access the connector. Make sure to re-connect fuel injector electrical connectors before placing manifold back (that called for the second attempt). Make sure that the fuel injector electrical connectors are not being pinched by the manifold when putting things back (third attempt!). Also, make sure to replace ALL of the gaskets - unless pulling fuel injectors out, I think you can get by with replacing ONLY the most outer o-rings on the fuel injectors (as opposed to all). Overall is a fun project, will need a T30 (I cut the one from harbor freight and used it with a ratchet - to make it fit better). Also, when tightening the valve cover- as above, need to do it in two parts, the first time around to 10 kN (all bolts), then again to 14kN (from pelican web site). Have fun!.
This is one of the best DIY for Porsche Cayenne channel. I was afraid to pull the trigger on used Cayenne and steer me to X5. With your DIY videos. It eases my worry. Time to hunt one....Thank you Kevin.
Glad I was able to help, thanks for watching!
What an incredible pain in the *** for a PCV valve glad you were able to make the repairs and save dealership rates
It is definitely a lot of work for just the valve. Most cars it’s a really easy thing to change. Just European cars companies like to put it there. Thanks for watching
German Porsche made everything complicated, I salute to anyone who simplifies our life.
Great video. Wish I had the time to do this because the pcv valve on my Cayenne 958 just went and now about to pay the dealer 3k to replace it
Thanks Kevin - Feb 19, 2021 was invoiced $2003.54 for the same repair at Porsche. Diagnosis - PCV Valve in CAM cover leaking air with Codes P05070 (idle speed above set point), P2187 (Bank 1 lean) and P2189 (Bank 2) for 2016 Cayenne with 67K miles. $466.37 for Part 958-105-135-31 Valve Cover Complete because they don't sell the diaphragm! Watching the effort required made the cost slightly more bearable, but ... incentive to DIY next time!
Thanks for watching. I always wondered what they would charge. I never had them price it out. But I knew it wasn’t cheap and that you had to buy a whole valve cover because they don’t sell that valve. Thanks for the info.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage the initial verbal diagnosis from Porsche was confusing because I was told that it was a AOS (Air Oil Separator) failure, but the invoice said PCV failure. When researching AOS, it appeared to be a simple diaphragm replacement, not a complete valve cover. Guess the risk of separating the (AOS) cover (at 16:20 in video) is avoided by forcing consumer to pay for a major replaceable unit at $466.37 ... it certainly isn't offset by reduced labor costs to replace a diaphragm.
So this PCV valve has a 67K mile service interval? Trying to gauge the annual service spend for a Cayenne for a non-DIY owner using independent shop.
It's a perfect video, I just have a problem to get those 2 bottom bolt off
Wow - you have done like over 10 maintenance service items on the way to the PCv valve - awesome video bro !!
Thanks! It was a lot of work so many hrs of video down to 30 min. It’s not an easy job.
Holy moly this is a labour intense job… Used to deal with BMW’s where removing the manifold is copleted within 20minutes. This is going to be much more.
Good video!!
Great video, helped a lot in doing the job. 1 thing to add, when putting the intake back on unplug those 2 top injectors and get the wire harness over the intake on the back corner and then slide hand under and plug those 2 back in. The fuel area was the hardest, but going back in was easier then coming out. 1 let down, to find out that it’s a VW engine in a Porsche. Thanks for the video have a great day.
You did awesome work for your Cayenne, I have 2014 @ 78K. Thank you for your contribution. Great Work, buddy
Thanks for watching I appreciate the support
You have got some patience!!!! Great job and capturing the work involved. Not sure I have that amount of patience....or tools!
Thanks for watching it wasn’t easy filming and working at the same time. Filming doubles the amount of time it takes.
Of course it in the valve cover, that is crazy!
The only thing is that you probably will only have to do it once.
Still probably the best video for those that have done this job. Amazing work! I did this on my Cayenne V6 as well. :-).
Thanks buddy! I’m so behind on videos I have at least 4 to edit still. I just did the oil filter housing gasket on my Mini. It took 8 hrs and i didn’t even film it.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Everyone is waiting for your edits my friend! ;-). There are some DIYs I meant to film too… but got too frustrated.
This is exactly what is happening to my 2008 Cayenne. Thanks for the DIY video!
Thanks for watching! I hope it will help you with your repair.
I watched his video and it helped me do mine! It took me 10-11 hours but I took my time and cleaned everything as well. I personally didn’t have to take off my fuel pump... only had to remove the lower fuel line that goes to lower fuel rail. I have a 2010 Cayenne Base. Good luck!
10 hrs isn’t a bad time at all. I’m glad my video helped you.
Kevin’s European Garage Yeah. I’m confident I can do it in about 2-4 hours now if I had to do it again.
Do you really have to remove high pressure fuel pump
Awesome! It’s way beyond my DIY item but I really enjoyed your nice video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I don’t have a cayenne, but really enjoyed the vid. Thanks for doing it
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting the video. You did a great job. I wish you had made it 2 years ago.
I performed the same repair on my 2009 Audi Q7 3.6 and it sucked. I used the same upgraded diaphragm. Reinstalling the intake manifold was frustrating and broke one of the vacuum ports and ended up using one that was sealed from the factory.
I don't want to ever do it again.
No it’s not an easy job. I hope I never have to do it again too. I like doing more fun stuff like putting coilovers on my 911
At 2:40, you said that the throttle body and the surrounding parts were cleaned to check if the PCV has a problem. I am wondering if you took any "relearn" or "reset" process without PIWIS or a special tool.
I heard that people ended up with an expensive repair/calibration at a dealership after they cleaned a throttle body.
This is my next project since my 2013 Cayenne V6 has white smoke comes out when starting engine for 10-15 seconds (only in the morning). No coolant leak.
It would be great if I can confirm that PIWIS is not needed after all these works including a throttle body cleaning. Thanks so much for your great videos. You are very dexterous!
I had cleaned the surrounding parts because if the pcv valve goes bad there can excessive oil in the intake. The way to check is the valve is really bad is by that little hole on the valve cover if its pulling a vacuum you definitely have a bad valve. I didn't have to reset the throttle. When I cleaned it I just wiped it down with a rag with some brake clean on it, on the inside. I didn't pull it apart maybe someone removed the sensor and didn't install it correctly or did something to the motor I can see that needing a calibration. But if you don't disturb any of that you should be fine.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thank you for sharing your expertise. You made my day!
I just completed this repair and wanted to provide feedback here. It took me longer than I expected as the biggest challenges are working in the engine bay on drivers side due it being very cramped and taking my time being careful not break any of the plastic parts , connectors etc.. I chose not to remove the fuel pump. I only removed the hard fuel line connecting the top fuel rail to the bottom rail on the back of the engine and only loosened the top nut and disconnected the bottom nut. I'm not so sure I could have reinstalled it if I had completed removed it. I cracked the back top fuel injector electrical connector while removing the intake and had to order a replacement which I found on Amazon. It's actually an Audi/VW part and it was an exact fit. The difficult part was reinstalling the intake manifold. After several attempts I installed it without the bottom fuel rail. I then installed the bottom fuel rail with the intake installed. It took me several tries and I had to remove another electrical connector on the alternator and wiggle it past a coolant hose to get it in. Reattaching the hard fuel line was tricky after I improvised with a coat hanger to slide the nut up the hard line to attach to the bottom rail. Thanks Kevin on the heads up on the RKX PCV replacement. I had to crank the engine about 4 times to get it to fire up. Car runs great now. Would I do this again, geez I hope not.
I’m glad you were able to successfully complete it. It is a pain. I too hope I never have to do it again myself. I think the quality of the RKX diaphragm is really good I hope it lasts the life of the car. Luckily that’s probably the worse thing you’ll have to do on your car. Soon I’ll be replacing my bad flex sections on both cats. I’ll will not be tackling it. I found a local tuner that has replaced them before that will do the job. If I had a welder I probably would do it myself.
Hey Frank... what is the part number of the Audi/VW fuel injector electrical connector you used. Thx in advance
I have this exact same year and engine and this same problem! I’m a little skeptical about doing this but I am going to jump in this weekend and try and knock it out! Wish me luck
Good luck! Make sure you set enough time aside to do it..
Hi, what a helpfull video,ive got the same Cayenne and reasondly found some power steering OR automatic gearbox oil the coolant reservoir.Vehicle performance good ,no overheating and engine warning light on.Im very worried about oil
Thanks for this video, now i know how i can change my valve gascket.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you VERY much for this tutorial. I used it extensively for my PCV valve replacement and the only tip that I have is you might need to replace the PCV vent tube. It crumbled when I tried to remove it from the intake manifold and it's an $80 part from Porsche. You can simply cut off the ends and reuse them with some generic heater hose. I think a paid $12 for a generic hose with a 90 degree bend in it. I also managed to snap off the retaining clip on #6 injector connector and will have to replace it. I tried running the car but the injector connector wiggled loose after 6 miles so I get to take off and install the manifold one more time. LOL
Are their clips that hold the lower injectors to the fuel rail? Or the lower manifold/fuel rail bolts are the ones that secure the fuel rail to the injectors? I’m currently as we speak doing this job on my 3.6 Audi Q7. Thanks
Yes those bolts on the bottom secure the lower fuel rail to the intake manifold and then to the head. And the injectors are pretty tight in the rail it’s hard to undo that rail with taking the injectors with it and or damage on the injector to rail o-rings.. good luck and thanks for watching!
Kevin do we have to remove high pressure fuel pump to remove the manifold?... i found it difficult to play things behind thr engine
I didn’t have to remove mine. Only the lower line that goes to the lower fuel rail. It’s really tight though.
It is really tight back there. I don't remember exactly why I removed it I'll have to take a look to see why.
Wow I’m having the exact same problem thank you and I always google everything and there where no videos with this issue hopefully save me a lot of money god bless 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 thanks for a great video
Thanks for watching, I'm glad I could help.
Is it absolutely necessary to actually pull out the bottom three injectors you pull out and re seal them (starting at 11:05 to 13:27) is there a way I can leave them in the head and only replace the most outer three rubber injector o-rings with out replacing any of the teflon parts cause I don't have those special brass tool set you had to stretch and compress the new teflon seals onto the injectors like you did, nor would I know where to even look to barrow that toolset you had, and are the injectors seals also a culprit of the 3 codes the pcv vacuum leak shoots out , I have those 3 codes you mentioned along with an additional one p0089. Anyways what's your take about leaving the injectors in the head and only repairing the valve cover issues ?
Most likely yes. The lower fuel rail rests on the bottom of the intake manifold. The intake manifold bolts go through both then into the head. When pulling back the rail the rubber o-rings on the end the fuel injectors were stuck to my fuel rail and 2 of the 3 o-rings tore and 2 of the injectors has pulled out of the head. You might get lucky and they don’t come out and stay in the head. Maybe your o-rings won’t tear either and. You just won’t know till you get there. It’s almost impossible to get your hands down there to hold the injectors still and pull on the fuel rail to remove it. The few other people I had talked to that did the job before all had similar outcomes with the injectors. That’s why I did the resealing and didn’t discuss maybe or maybe not you will have to replace the seals. I bought the tool to do this job. I’ll probably never use it again.
Fantastic video, don't know why this never popped up in my recommended list before. I enjoyed your walkthrough and really liked how you point out all the tricky screws locations. One day, hopefully not in the near future, I may have to give it a crack on mine. I have the same model 958.2 V6 engine. :)
Thanks for watching. It’s not a bad job just time consuming.
Indy quoted close to 2k for this on my 957 Cayenne. Needless to say I spent less than $50 for diaphragm, intake gaskets and value cover gasket. Job took 4 hours with motivation. Fuel rail was the hardest part being that I didn’t remove all the high pressure fuel hoses. Had to make sure it was not bent putting intake back on. Wish I had found your video at the time.
2k is crazy high for this job and 4 hrs is moving pretty quick. I have no clue how long it took me with having to set up to film all the time.
Did you need to buy the fuel injector puller/installer tool kit to complete the job?
Yes because some injectors came out as i was removing the fuel rail. I had to install new seals. It is not recommended to reuse the injector seals. The seals that go on the injector where it goes into the engine are made of Teflon and need to be compressed to get the injector in. that tool will compress them so they can be installed. But you have to do i quickly as they expand to seal the injector.
I have a caynne 2013 base model. i have been having a white smoke occasionally and was told its the AOS that needs to be replaced. What you TH-cam on replacing the PCV is this the AOS?
It’s a term that use almost interchangeably but they are different depending the on the car the AOS on a 911 while is does a similar this is more complicated. The Cayenne has just a pcv valve. When there go bad the diaphragm starts to rip and then there is a vacuum leak. Symptoms are really bad idle. It will surge and and a check engine light will come on. I did not have smoke associated with my bad pcv valve. It’s not to say it isn’t possible. It’s a lengthy fix and isn’t cheap. Without seeing the car it’s hard to say for sure.
Thank you for that clarification. My cayenne 2013 when you first start no smokes. However, intermittently make white smoke in different occasions, like standing with my AC on for 45min no white smoke seen, but i shutoff the engine for 2min and 30sec later after i start i sow a white smoke that i cant see the cars in the back. Just wanted to know what coarse of action to take. Thank you.
How much oil are you burning?
Great video. I replaced the valve cover following your instructions and it worked great. It took some time but was done. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. I’m glad my video helped
How long did it take you to to?
Ive been watching your videos and let me tell you they are great. I live in the DR and I’ve been thinking of buying a used Cayenne 12 or 13 for a couple of weeks and checking around parts aren’t that expensive if i compare them to my current suv (4runner) i know its a german car but toyota is right up there in costs for parts. And all things a read about in all the forums and a can many say that the Cayenne is the Toyota version of the European Cars. What do you think? PS - labor here in the DR isn’t cheap but nothing like the US
Hi Kevin. Your videos are great, very informative and helpful.
I have an idea.
If we cat in the middle the PCV valve hose and instal there an universal PCV valve. What do you think is it going to work?
Have you ever came across code P025A Fuel Pump module activation, electrical fault/circuit open? Fuel pumps been replace.
Wow just what I was looking for Nice job Kevin.
Thanks for watching.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage What tool were you using to put the new seals on the fuel injectors? Also did you replace the seals on all 6 injectors or just the 3 in the video?
Here is a link for the tool
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/fuel-injector-puller-installer-tool-kit/p-695a/
I only changed the seals on the ones for the lower rail. The upper rail doesn’t have to come so I left them alone.
Great job, do you know where engine coolant temperature is? I couldn't find it.
On the Audi Q7 3.6 the ECT sensor is on the coolant pipe located between the firewall and the high pressure fuel pump. You can see it if you are underneath the vehicle by looking up towards the engine, driver's side.
@@LusoiHardware Thank you, yes.I have seen it ,not sure if it is. This location is hard to reach it. Not to mention to work on it. I think removal intake manifold is necessary.This sensor is watertight. without good access. coolant may leak out.
Hats of to you for doing such job will even put to shame some mechanics when I see this video my head spins great job
Haha thanks for watching
Hello kevin, good vid....do you have one for changing a thermostat on 2012 cayenne v6 3.6 liter
Hi Steve sorry I don’t at this time. Mine hasn’t failed yet. It looks like it could be accessible thought the drivers fender well. Thanks for watching.
Hi Mr Kevin my 2012 Cayenne like same condition you car but scanner said misfire and need change intechmanifo gas ket what do you think thanks
Ryo what code did it did it say?
Hi Kevin wich is the best one icarsoft and lunch 123X scanner thanks
I have been looking at scanners as I need to get one but I haven’t purchased one yet. Each of these manufacturers have multiple models which ones were you looking at? What I look for is multi car brand and it need to be able to reset the maint schedule not just the oil change. I’m still looking. There are so many options to choose from!
I changed the PVC valve on a !973 Dodge Dart back in the day. Looks like things have changed a bit. 😩
Subarus are easy anything german well they make things difficult
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage
Subarus are great vehicles. Love the boxer engine.
What should I pay special attention to when disassembling the manifold?
Hi Mr Kevin my 2012 Cayenne driver side seat memory no working still have power but no light on do you have like this thanks
Unfortunately I don't have the memory option on my car. I wouldn't be much help..
Move the driver’s seat through the entire range of motion using the buttons on the side. Up, down, front and back. The ENTIRE range of motion, it helps if you are not sitting in the seat when you do it. The seat memory will then reset and your Set Button will now illuminate in red. Now, you’ll be able to set your seat’s memory, plus an additional key specific, memory configuration.
Thanks for the video. Going to tackle this in the spring.
Does the bottom fuel rail remain on the intake manifold when its removed? If so, then I take it that the injectors may or may not come out. With that said is it a must that I purchase the injector tool kit? Canbthe job be done without it? I followed the link for that kit and I contacted the seller and they said it would not work on a Porsche. Can you confirm the kit number?
Im trying to figure out what I will need.
A long T30 torque bit
A 10 mm 3 square bit
A 17 mm stubbie open end wrench
A 17 mm crowsfoot
Injector tool kit.
Normal shop tools (screwdrivers, metric sockets, needle nose pliers)
Thanks for a great post. I will be using it this weekend.
Fanatic job! Quick question, why do you need to remove the high pressure fuel pump? I’m asking because I’ve recently replaced mine and I don’t want to perform the job again. lol
Hey Kevin thanks for all the help + insight !! Kevin here also , 14 cayenne base. Trying to order rkx 3.6 kit but I have no idea if my m55.02 3.6 is a 1 piece or 2 piece manifold ?? Can’t find this answer nowhere ? Thanks in advance 👍
Kevin, are you putting some kind of sealant before you are putting cover? I've noticed you did add something but wonder what are you using and are you putting it all around the cover or just in two spots? thanks
I’m putting some silicone sealant at spots where two pieces of a aluminum or where there is a break in the seam. Those type of spots have a tendency to leak if not sealed correctly.
Great video, thanks for making this! It's beyond my DIY experience and desires, but if nothing else it helps knowing what kind of job the mechanic needs to do!
Question: I understand that the oil separator is in the valve cover. Is that part shown somewhere in this video?
Thanks for watching. The pcv valve is that round diaphragm I start removing it from the valve cover at 16:16. That’s the part that went bad. All that work for that little part.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Got it. So "oil separator" and "PCV" are two different terms for the same thing, then. Thank you for the reply!
On average its going to cost anywhere from $600 to $1200. On the low end that is labor, parts and an aftermarket diaphragm still using the original valve cover. It they wont change just the diaphragm they will make you purchase a new valve cover. I would not use aftermarket one heard too many issues with those leaking over time. New Porsche ones are expensive. Labor can vary so it really hard to say exactly. Thanks for watching
Hi it look very hard how long would it take a person to learn to do this on their own? You did a good job. Thank you
Thanks for watching its hard to say how long something like that would take a novice. The book I think says 5 hrs. I bet an experienced mechanic could do it in less than three hrs. Maybe anywhere from 6 to 8 hrs depending on their skill level for a novice.
The 3 bots on the driver side bottom triple 10m will not go in is it a triple 9? I have 8 and 10
Can you share the part numbers for the gaskets and fuel injector seals, or provide updated pelican parts links? The current links don't work.
Great in-depth video. I think the PCV valve just went. It threw a CEL, some codes I have never seen before (P000fa7, P00100d, and P001009 - "fault code not found in the database"), but I have that hissing from that hole in the valve cover so I assume that's what it is.
That missing from the hole is the sign its bad. When you cover the hole and the engine speed changes then for sure it is bad. There should be no vacuum from that hole.
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/95511091000.htm?pn=955-110-910-00-OEM&SVSVSI=4936&DID=12374
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/95511091100.htm?pn=955-110-911-00-OEM&SVSVSI=4936&DID=15374
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage perfect thank you and thanks for sharing updating p/n. I think I’m going to tackle this weekend provided the parts come in. Called a Porsche indy shop and they quoted 10-20 hours at 175 per hour (and they want to replace the whole valve cover) so I have a lot of incentive to DIY.
Well done absolutly pristine complétion replacment thank man keep up the good work
Thanks for watching!
hey mate thanks for the video. I have a coolant leak from the housing where the coolant temperature sender is located. the housing has three bolts that attach to the block. DO I need to remove the intake manifold to get to that third bolt? or can I just remove the high pressure fuel pump? appreciate any advice you could give.
Let me look into it. Off the top of my head I’m not too sure. Thanks for watching
Thanks mate. It’s a very small leak at the moment so no rush.
I got around to do it. It was actually easily accessible from below.
bro do you know how to do dsm turbos?
Is this the same for 2009 cayenne base model? It is a 3.6
If the engine is a direct injection engine it will be very similar. I haven’t had my hands on one to know for sure. But from the pics I say yes. Thanks for watching .
Really good presentation. I have done this job before, it is really a time consuming one. Question, do you also consider to replace those vacuum lines? I remember the one on the driver side that connects the actuator is really fragile. Subscribed, wish to see more.
I remember which one you’re talking about when I was taking it apart I was really careful not to snap it. I would have some vacuum hose around for repairs when doing something like that
Hello, I have a cayenne turbo 4.5, it starts very cold, it starts very hot if it is not stopped for more than 10 or 15 minutes, if there is more time stopped it takes 10 seconds to start and it does so as if it were drowned with fuel, and replace the crankshaft position sensors and camshafts, repair the pcv valve, check the canister, bovines, spark plugs, maf, everything is ok, there are no errors when scanning, something curious if I inject air through the canister hose to the intake manifold, it turns on well, the truth is that I have fried, something similar happened to you? Thank you very much in advance, greetings from Argentina
Thanks for watching from Argentina! I looks like you have covered a lot of stuff there. I’ve heard for vacuum lines cracking on this engine have you checked your to make sure there isn’t any cracks? Also I would check the fuel pump. Sounds like you don’t have pressure right away. I would check the pressure when it does this. Other than that I don’t have much more to go on. I haven’t had any issues like that with my car. It hard to diagnose with out the car. But if you haven’t checked that yet. That’s the next thing I would check.. Good luck let us know how it checks out.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thanks for answering, check all the vacuum lines and they are fine, the idle is stable, I also connected the pumps so that they start when contacting and it did not work either, the only thing that worked is to send compressed air through the intake manifold, it is very rare when It is extremely cold it also starts fast, it is as if it suffocates with oil vapors, the engine does not have oil consumption either
I have never encountered something like this with mine. But I have heard weird things happening with the evap system on others cars causing hard starts. I’m trying to remember but I can’t, it was over a decade ago that I heard this. Maybe try removing the gas cap and see what happens. At this point I would be in the same situation as you. I would be looking through some forums to see if anyone else has had this issue.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I already tried everything you can imagine, I also spent a month in an exclusive electronics workshop, I do the mechanical part in my private workshop but electronics is limited for me, they also did not find anything, so I consult I think the only thing that can help me is that some other user has the same thing happened to him, it happens that it is embarrassing that a porsche takes time to turn on
I understand your frustration with your problem. I wish you luck hopefully you find the solution and when you do please let me know.
Hi! How do you get to the left lower bolt of the high-pressure fuel pump? I've been trying to unscrew that bolt for couple hours... That hose in front of that bolt just blocked everything, I'm so frustrated...
There is a water tube that’s under the intake manifold that’s held on by one screw and slides to the left to release it from the tab. That has to be pushed aside before you can take off the fuel pump. I take it off starting at 5:46. It was really hard to film everything that happened down there no room at all
Kevin’s European Garage I wish I could just followed your steps. I skipped that bracket, and end up stripped that T27 screw on the fuel pump. Is there a way I can go around without taking of that fuel pump? I’m replacing the intake manifold
Kevin’s European Garage If there is not, I will have to put everything back together and send it to a shop which I hate to do😭
I will have to take a look at my car tomorrow to see if you could work around it. I think the issue is the lower fuel rail is too close to the fuel pump. Another thing you could try is if you have enough room, put the torx bit in the bolt even though it is rounded off I bet there is a little left put a short extension on the bit and try and tap it with a hammer into the bolt. You might be able to straighten out the slots in the bolt and the shock might losen up the bolt and make it easier to break free.
Kevin’s European Garage I wasted way too much time fighting that T27 screw. It’s completely rounded off, I even tried screw extractor and it didn’t work. So the only thing preventing me from pulling off the intake manifold is the lower fuel rail? I’ve already unscrew other bolts, the T30s and tripesquares
The injector kit at ECS says its for a 2.0 motor only. Is that the one you used? Just want to make sure before buying it.
The P695a is the kit I used. You don’t need all the parts. Mainly the brush to clean the injector holes and the parts to install the seal and compress them so you can slide the inject back in before the Teflon expands again. I did buy a couple extra seal kits. I didn’t need them but I came close to needing one.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage thanks for clarifying! Great video!
Thanks, glad I could help
Good lawd...and i thought my e39 bmw pcv valve was a pain...this is ridiculous and such a pain
what’s the solution you put when placing back plastic body of coil covers
Where can I get the diaphragm for the PVC valve?
intake manifold wont come off, any recommendations, little bit of play in left side, right side stiff, are the screws not coming all the way out.
i need help im ganna break my car im so mad
I have the same engine (manual transmission) and my idle is really up and down and all over. I don't have any noise coming from the pinhole you describe and there is no change when I put my finger on it. I do feel suction on my finger from the pinhole. Is it possible that my PCV valve is fine and the rough idle is coming from someplace else? if I remove my oil filler cap when the engine is idling, there is a huge amount of suction trying to keep that oil filler cap on the manifold. the dipstick tube has a huge amount of suction as well. Nice video!!!
I'll double check my car tomorrow but I believe there shouldn't be any vacuum coming from that hole. Its possible your diaphragm doesn't have a very bad break. Mine was quite torn. Thanks for watching!
Hey Kevin, hows the RKX diaphragm holding up after 3 years?
I have looked everywhere for the torque values of the three M10 that hold that lower fuel rail and injectors in and unfortunatly that is where your video cut out. Do you have those values?
Tightening torque: 30 Nm (22 ftlb.) , then -- Torque angle: 90° -- Tightening torque: 8 Nm (6 ftlb.)
Hi Kevin, I am a beginner. Really good presentation, how do you suggest to start learning Porsche? I have Cayenne. I noticed that majority of mechanics do not want to work on it since it has a lot of specifics/unique issues. Are the diagrams and schematics you can recommend for Porsche Cayenne may be? I am currently trying to fix 2187 and 2189 codes plus engine misfire (even though i changed coils and spark plugs). Thanks much.
I use alldata it has all the diagrams basically the factory service manual for the car. Have you checked the low pressure pump? It noted that as a possible issue along with fuel leaks. Possible issue with voltage too.
Good info, may end up tackling this myself
Thanks for watching, good luck if plan on tackling it!
Gracias por la información visual, y por la información técnica.
I’m so grateful for you information. Ig it the same !👍
Hi Kevin, i have cayenne 958 92A same engine like your car and idle is unstable, i use scan tools and got the code p050700,p218700 and p218900 is that mean my car have the same issue like yours need to replace pcv valve?
Thanks
So thorough. Thank you!
why there are only 3 fuel injectors we can see?
Because there are two separate fuel rails an upper and lower. The lower gets removed while the upper remains bolted to the head and doesn’t need to be removed. Thanks for watching !
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thank you for your reply. now I got it.
Can you give me a hint of where the coolant temperature sensor is? Front or back of the engine.
Well there are three temp sensors. The one for the computer is in the front of the engine next to the alternator. That’s for the computer. The one for the gauge is at the back of the engine on the coolant pipes to the right of the intake manifold when looking at it from the left front tire. The other is for the fans. I’m unsure of when that one is
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage thank you for your valuable information.
@everyone where do you all get your pricing?! just for a water pump i was charged $600 just for labor an fuel pump $1500 parts and labor. thats in az
Hi Kevin , can u tell me does stop start feature Porsche Cayenne 3.6 use different starter than the car has no stop start feature.
I haven’t seen one without the start stop feature. But yes they are different starters different part numbers
where is your workshop?
I’m located just outside of Boston
did you remove the lower fuel rail when you detached manifold? i am having difficult time aligning high pressure fuel connection when i put back the manifold
Yes the lower rail has to come out. The injectors stay in the block put the manifold back on then put the rain on.
Grateful to you hard work 😮thanks it’s a great info I will do it my now
Impressive well done job 👍
Thanks for watching
How different is the 2008 957?
Video is so good, I had to watch it again. Haha. How much do you think a shop would charge to do this?
Thanks! I think the book says the job takes 6 hrs and the parts are around $150. Then what ever the current labor rate is in your area. I'm not sure what that is around Boston
hey Kevin why did you had to take off the fuel pump ?
There is a hard line that I couldn't get a wrench on or a crows foot. The fuel pump was in the way as soon as I removed that then I was able to remove the line. The line was for the lower fuel rail I believe..
Is 3.6 engine reliable?
Great video bro!!! Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Great video!
Broth, I live in mass too and I want to do that to mine but mine is the S v8...so you think you can help me?
Sorry I only work on my personal vehicles I do not have a garage to work on other peoples cars. I barely have enough time to work on my own stuff right now. A good garage in the Boston area that is reasonably priced is RayTeam Auto in Waltham. They did my exhaust I am happy with their work
Bravo! This looks like a pain in the butt. Great video though. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! It is a pain but doable. Some tight to reach places for sure.
This is a stupid engine design that requires to take the whole god damn engine apart to replace a finicky $4 plastic valve. Most other Porsche engines have this valve right outside the engine cover at the top where any kid can replace it in 5 mins.. smh
Yeah I wasn’t too happy when I had to do this. You can’t buy the valve from Porsche you have to buy the whole cover $400. This is definitely a time where engineering went to far.
LOL. You wouldn't be able to design one yourself.
Thanks for de vídeo bro...... helps a lot
Thanks for watching!
the video would be great if it identified WHY certain seqence is followed. for example, it does not outline why do you need to remove the fuel pump, as it seems unnccessary.
points to note while assembling back:
1. pay attention to injector wiring harness not to be pinched under the intake
2. be careful not to break off fuel pump sensor at the bottom.
3. handle the common rail with extra care not to break sensor on the rightmost side.
4. pay attention not to bend the bottom fuel line (metal) as reassembly may be impossible
5. the t30 torx need to be at least 6.25in long
6. the job will be that much easier if you remove the coolant hoses, while servicing thermostat, water pump, etc., but nit mandatory.
where you located?
Im just west of Boston but i don’t have a public shop. I just work on my own cars
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage gotcha…. you got some excellent talent brother
Thanks 🙏
I want to do it to my car can u help me pout ? How much do u charge ? Any reliable mechanical in nyc. ? How much it will cost ? Plz let me know thx
I don’t know anyone in NYC that i could send you to. The closest place I that i know the people at is The Shop CT in Stratford CT its a long drive but they do good work and you can take the metro north RR back to nyc.
I have Touareg same problem Spenser cars and not goog now before I'm love Golf and Rabbit not any more
Your pelican links don't work anymore. Found all the parts except the injector seals set
How much do you think a independent shop would charge for this job?
The book time is 3.5 hrs which I think is a little low so they might come back with 4.5. So depends on the labor rate where you live. If you change the valve cover your looking at $600 est. in parts. If you do what I did I think I spent less than $200 in parts. But that should give you an idea of what to expect.
Kevin’s European Garage I have my car in the shop now, for what the mechanic believes this is the problem. Did you have a like a rumble at idle and at take off?
I put my thumb on that hole and it’s still the same. Idle rough when park
Check for codes could have a misfire that will also cause the engine to run rough
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage 2013 VW Touareg V6 lux gas. P2189 lean bank 2 idle. Check engine and epc light is both on. That hole is sucking in air continually. I’m afraid it’s the pcv diaphragm
If that hole is sucking in air then yes unfortunately the pcv valve is bad
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage I removed the hose from the breather box and plugged it. For short term fix car is idling fine now. Cel and cpc lights still on with limp mode.