Hey @billp.365 I installed a new valley plate that doesnt have the knock sensor holes in it. If you leave the old valley plate, water will fill in the holes. Even though the valley plate is sealed at the bottom of the hole where the knock sensor is removed, there is still potential to have a leaking seal and get water into your engine. The old seals get hard and dont seal too well when they are undone.The old knock sensor positions are in a blind hole in the block above the cam, not an oil pressure gallery. Hope this helps.
Many things on a Engine should be repositioned, Many Engineers are Bat Shit Crazy positioning Engine Devices that are Impossible to get to without Undressing the whole Engine....
@@kylehyatt9972 I don't think you should. The knock sensors are there to detect knock or problematic issues in the engine. Only checking on one side could miss something important that your ecm needs to know to throw up an engine code.
100% it works. I tested mine with my scan tool on my engine run stand. I had no knock issues when they were in the original position and none in the new position. Some people mount them on the cylinder heads near the exhaust manifold. They will get false knock from the cylinders firing as its too close to the combustion process. They have to be in the correct position. I only moved mine because I was installing cross ram injection, and I wanted a clean look under the inlet runners, so I installed a billet valley plate which meant the sensors had to be re positioned. Otherwise there is no need to move them.
@@SullysRodskustoms. right on! I’m moving mine because I’ve changed the knock sensors now 3-4 times and they keep failing. Not sure if it’s bad sensors or bad connection but it’s such a pain to keep removing my intake at this point relocating them is my step before having them deleted out of the tune
Like he says in the video, plan on doing them a lot if you buy the non-GM. On the plus side, I can take my friend's supercharger off, replace the knock sensors, and reinstall everything in about two and a half hours. He is now using GM units and hasn't popped a code since.
I tapped those holes to the knock sensor thread in the alloy 5.3 i put in my vy with the extension harness and so far so good 👍🏻
Sounds like a good idea too.
👏👏👍👍 answered my question ,good vid.
Glad it was helpful @MrPrelude98.
Are you blocking off the existing holes? Does it affect any type of pressure for the reading or can the holes simply be left open?
Hey @billp.365 I installed a new valley plate that doesnt have the knock sensor holes in it. If you leave the old valley plate, water will fill in the holes. Even though the valley plate is sealed at the bottom of the hole where the knock sensor is removed, there is still potential to have a leaking seal and get water into your engine. The old seals get hard and dont seal too well when they are undone.The old knock sensor positions are in a blind hole in the block above the cam, not an oil pressure gallery. Hope this helps.
@SullysRodskustoms. So I did mine but when I try to start it won't and has a knock now and won't start any suggestions?
Many things on a Engine should be repositioned, Many Engineers are Bat Shit Crazy positioning Engine Devices that are Impossible to get to without Undressing the whole Engine....
So very true. 👍
can l use just the one block on the American passenger side and put both sensors in it?
@@kylehyatt9972 I don't think you should. The knock sensors are there to detect knock or problematic issues in the engine. Only checking on one side could miss something important that your ecm needs to know to throw up an engine code.
Good video, but brother you need to get yourself a cheap lavalier microphone. Volume is very low.
Can't hear
What he say?
Yeh sorry about the volume of the recording. My microphone
turn on when filming and only the camera mic picked up the sound.
Does this actually work???
100% it works. I tested mine with my scan tool on my engine run stand. I had no knock issues when they were in the original position and none in the new position. Some people mount them on the cylinder heads near the exhaust manifold. They will get false knock from the cylinders firing as its too close to the combustion process.
They have to be in the correct position. I only moved mine because I was installing cross ram injection, and I wanted a clean look under the inlet runners, so I installed a billet valley plate which meant the sensors had to be re positioned. Otherwise there is no need to move them.
@@SullysRodskustoms. right on! I’m moving mine because I’ve changed the knock sensors now 3-4 times and they keep failing. Not sure if it’s bad sensors or bad connection but it’s such a pain to keep removing my intake at this point relocating them is my step before having them deleted out of the tune
why bother ? How often does one expect to change it ?
Check out some of my other video's and you will see why. I installed cross ram injection so I moved the knock sensors away from the valley.
ok@@SullysRodskustoms.
Like he says in the video, plan on doing them a lot if you buy the non-GM. On the plus side, I can take my friend's supercharger off, replace the knock sensors, and reinstall everything in about two and a half hours. He is now using GM units and hasn't popped a code since.