Great video! The "one size fits all" answers most people give are so ridiculously unhelpful if you want to really comprehend how the resin printing process works. Your video is much more informative than instructional, and that's always a good thing in my book!
Wow, this video really answered to all my questions about tilting and supports for prints! You couldn't explained more better and detalied than this... Now i understand the logical problems behind printing without failures. You save'd us, the beginners from a lot of wasted time, wasted resin, and nerves... Thank you man, you are a really good teacher in this subject!!! 🤟😎
Actually, there IS a perfect angle for every resin printer and that angle is precisely equal to the arctan(layer height/pixel width) so for my anycubic photon mono 4K the arctan(0.05/0.035) = 55.0079 degrees this angle will be different for each print depending on layer height and your machines pixel width. This angle will give you the smoothest print on every side.
www.rc87.blog/angle-calculator/ Calculates the angle for your printer and layer height. Again, only matters when trying to get the smoothest possible flat surfaces.
OMG.....thank you thank you a thousand times thank you for making this video!!!! You cover EVERYTHING about how to perfectly placing the support pillars! Seriously a great video for a beginner!! 🤩🤩 Will definately save this vid for my future reference!
I learned SO MUCH from this video. Thank you! I do want to share one bit of feedback, maybe open up a discussion about it, whatever... So I saw you using the ball-end for your supports (I typically go with the "None" option). Mainly I wanted to see if there was an advantage to using one over the other. I finished up my supports and did an "Island Detect" and had significantly more islands. As I studied the "why", it was the ball end. The more I though about it, it makes sense... unless your support "shaft" is perfectly vertical, the ball will start with an island. I went back and changed all my supports, because, while the islands are typically "small", I just imagined all those orphaned bits floating in my resin.
Interesting to watch. Definitely learned some useful things about how to support stuff. Till now ive only used auto supports and i havent experienced a lot of issues, but i cant stand the time being wasted when one fails!
Thank you for the tips, my first few prints went pretty okay with auto supports but after trying to do some neca figure stands I’ve been having fails. everything you have said in this video has helped me understand the process so much more.
We support exactly the same way! Lol I always look for what's best for the model I'm currently printing! Hahaha only difference is that I use lychee I really like it!
I've been meaning to switch to lychee but last time I tried I couldn't find an option to either hollow or add holes. Can't remember which one but I kinda gave up 😅. Is it really that much better than chitubox ?
@@jjbeast102699 I think is more about preference honestly they are both really good I tried both and I like lychee more but is a preference thing you know, and yes you can hollow the model add holes add internal supports all that. Is one those things you have to test it out both and see what you like best just be open minded when testing, sometimes inwould pick one thing over another just because I was more familiar with something. Since then I try to go in and put pros and cons and see what I really like even if means I'll have to learn something new completely but if is better in the long run than it's better. But that's just my opinion I still would recommend you to try it maybe you will find that chitubox works best for you.
I've been looking to go to resin printing for a whyle now and am looking at so many video's on 'HOW TO" etc. I have been printing FDM for 4, 5, years now and just can't get some of the detail i want in some models. Resin printing seems to be the solution for this. It's just pretty expensive to start with and it will not get any cheaper. Seeing your video on these supports seems to minimize the use of resin wich is a good thing because of the minimizing of the cost of resin. I like to make my own parts for a number of things, and sometimes you just need to print it to make sure it fits. FDM does do a good job at printing a prototype, but laks on the accuracy. You can see the basic shape but the dementions are mostly just a bit of (no matter how well you print it). Resin printing however is more accurate but it cost a lot more, so beeing able to cut on cost is a blessing for me lol. Thank you for this video, it helped me a lot. It makes my struggle to buy (or not to buy) a resin printer a bit less difficult.
I just started printing in resin, been printing fdm for a few years now. I'm so confused about orientation for resin printing, I keep thinking in the realm of fdm orientation. It's driving me nuts!
thanks for sharing your wisdom on this matter. I've crashed one part a few times and who knew that a flat part doesn't want to be printed flat on a flat plate? Then there's the whole thinking upside down thing going on. Anyway, very helpful information, thank you.
Hello, I'm printing a vw bus 1:43 scale and having problems with the side of the body , when it prints the side is deforming.What can I do, I've already tried to add more support to the entire piece and I've already tried with angles of 45 degrees and 35 degrees. But at the end It make some angle marks on it, Cheers
Iv been using FDM printers for a year and just purchased my first resin printer. After watching many videos for beginners this is by far the best.
Great video! The "one size fits all" answers most people give are so ridiculously unhelpful if you want to really comprehend how the resin printing process works. Your video is much more informative than instructional, and that's always a good thing in my book!
Wow, this video really answered to all my questions about tilting and supports for prints! You couldn't explained more better and detalied than this... Now i understand the logical problems behind printing without failures. You save'd us, the beginners from a lot of wasted time, wasted resin, and nerves... Thank you man, you are a really good teacher in this subject!!! 🤟😎
You're so welcome! I’m glad I could save you some grief. There is a lot to consider when starting to support a model in resin.
Actually, there IS a perfect angle for every resin printer and that angle is precisely equal to the arctan(layer height/pixel width) so for my anycubic photon mono 4K the arctan(0.05/0.035) = 55.0079 degrees this angle will be different for each print depending on layer height and your machines pixel width. This angle will give you the smoothest print on every side.
have a mono4k -have you printed many like that?
@@deaultusername the only time you’ll be able to see steps in layer lines is with flat surfaces and even then it’s so minute, I use it sometimes
Noncence
www.rc87.blog/angle-calculator/
Calculates the angle for your printer and layer height. Again, only matters when trying to get the smoothest possible flat surfaces.
@@KingUsyk nonsense
OMG.....thank you thank you a thousand times thank you for making this video!!!! You cover EVERYTHING about how to perfectly placing the support pillars! Seriously a great video for a beginner!! 🤩🤩 Will definately save this vid for my future reference!
You are so welcome! Best of luck printing!
Being very new to SLA this was incredibly helpful. I have been using auto supports and been less than pleased with the results. Thank you
This is actually brilliant, i'm glad i found you on YT, thx a lot!
I learned SO MUCH from this video. Thank you!
I do want to share one bit of feedback, maybe open up a discussion about it, whatever... So I saw you using the ball-end for your supports (I typically go with the "None" option). Mainly I wanted to see if there was an advantage to using one over the other. I finished up my supports and did an "Island Detect" and had significantly more islands. As I studied the "why", it was the ball end. The more I though about it, it makes sense... unless your support "shaft" is perfectly vertical, the ball will start with an island. I went back and changed all my supports, because, while the islands are typically "small", I just imagined all those orphaned bits floating in my resin.
It would be great to know what settings you use for support.
Thank you so much, you GLORIOUS human being!
Fantastic tutorial really well explained. Thank you
Interesting to watch. Definitely learned some useful things about how to support stuff. Till now ive only used auto supports and i havent experienced a lot of issues, but i cant stand the time being wasted when one fails!
Thanks that was a brilliant tutorial, I've been getting it wrong for a couple of years! ....
Hell yeah another awesome video
Ha ha! Thanks a lot! Glad you liked it.
Thank you for the tips, my first few prints went pretty okay with auto supports but after trying to do some neca figure stands I’ve been having fails. everything you have said in this video has helped me understand the process so much more.
"In this case, the house is hanging upside down." 🤣That about sums up resin printing.
Great video. Take a shot every time he says “support”
Thanks this was so helpful!
We support exactly the same way! Lol I always look for what's best for the model I'm currently printing! Hahaha only difference is that I use lychee I really like it!
Awesome great minds think alike they say. Yeah all the concepts apply to any slicer you use.
I've been meaning to switch to lychee but last time I tried I couldn't find an option to either hollow or add holes. Can't remember which one but I kinda gave up 😅. Is it really that much better than chitubox ?
@@jjbeast102699 I think is more about preference honestly they are both really good I tried both and I like lychee more but is a preference thing you know, and yes you can hollow the model add holes add internal supports all that. Is one those things you have to test it out both and see what you like best just be open minded when testing, sometimes inwould pick one thing over another just because I was more familiar with something. Since then I try to go in and put pros and cons and see what I really like even if means I'll have to learn something new completely but if is better in the long run than it's better. But that's just my opinion I still would recommend you to try it maybe you will find that chitubox works best for you.
Thanks a lot! I learned a lot as I’m really new to this. One question would you use the “raft” option? Someone told me that a 130% option is good too.
Thank you for this video! This was incredibly helpful!
another way to avoid failures with the planking overhangs is to spin the base 85 or 95 degrees so the planking is almost verticle, not horizontal.
great vid man, super useful
Is there a fine sand paper made for models, to get into the less than flat areas?
The best thing I have found is using sanding sticks. Here is a link to some on Amazon
amzn.to/3Qe4ZOt
Do you have a video on how to make those ball-point supports btw?
How do you get it to rotate with a click I have to push the arrows in the right top
I've been looking to go to resin printing for a whyle now and am looking at so many video's on 'HOW TO" etc. I have been printing FDM for 4, 5, years now and just can't get some of the detail i want in some models. Resin printing seems to be the solution for this.
It's just pretty expensive to start with and it will not get any cheaper.
Seeing your video on these supports seems to minimize the use of resin wich is a good thing because of the minimizing of the cost of resin.
I like to make my own parts for a number of things, and sometimes you just need to print it to make sure it fits. FDM does do a good job at printing a prototype, but laks on the accuracy. You can see the basic shape but the dementions are mostly just a bit of (no matter how well you print it). Resin printing however is more accurate but it cost a lot more, so beeing able to cut on cost is a blessing for me lol.
Thank you for this video, it helped me a lot. It makes my struggle to buy (or not to buy) a resin printer a bit less difficult.
Does lychee have a setting that adds the braces automatically like that? Seems super helpful
I just started printing in resin, been printing fdm for a few years now. I'm so confused about orientation for resin printing, I keep thinking in the realm of fdm orientation. It's driving me nuts!
Do you know why people say dont print your 3D image parallel to the plate?
I don’t know anything about 3D printing, where do I start?
I actually did a basic beginner video explaining where to start. you can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/OLOsM-BNuYc/w-d-xo.html
thanks for sharing your wisdom on this matter. I've crashed one part a few times and who knew that a flat part doesn't want to be printed flat on a flat plate? Then there's the whole thinking upside down thing going on. Anyway, very helpful information, thank you.
Yeah it’s a odd way of thinking. But I’m glad I could help. Best of luck printing.
Co zrobić żeby w wydruku nie było dziur po wspornikach?
I start to understand all you have to do with supports but how on earth do you print and with what?
It's going to be printed on a resin 3d printer. Pretty much any of the hobby grade machines will do this easily.
Interesting 🤔
if you angle a round object like that there will be mucho scan lines round objects print smooth flat
Ok i can dig holes in the top of the models but not the bottom wtf?
Hello, I'm printing a vw bus 1:43 scale and having problems with the side of the body , when it prints the side is deforming.What can I do, I've already tried to add more support to the entire piece and I've already tried with angles of 45 degrees and 35 degrees. But at the end It make some angle marks on it, Cheers
So instead of a minimal elephant foot you multiply print time like 30x and add supports as a bonus.
chad
i cant help but think this is tyler from secure team10
The Perfect Angle... "its what ever angle works best" gee thanks, but thats not that helpful. The best angle is ARCTAN(Layerheight/pixelwidth)