I can remember exactly where I was when I watched the utube video of Rob Cosman when said “if you learn how to use hand planes it will change the way you do woodworking”. I am about to finish up a Mahogany Hall Table that I'm very proud of because I learned how to use hand planes. These were my first set of inset drawers I've ever done and I would hate to try it without a hand plane. One of the drawer faces had a bit of a twist and was able to solve that in no time.
Thank you. I tired to figure out how you did it, and came close, but only close. I'm also glad you have your dvd's on a download now, as living in S. America, shipping is a killer. Thanks.
Hi Rob. Quite a few years ago I saw an old article by yourself in an FWW article showing how you made your wooden hinged boxes using the little dowel jig. I have since made quite a few boxes with this type of hinge thanks to you. However, I didn't like having an individual hinge pin between each hinge segment, so instead, I use a single piece of wood the full length of the box hinge, rip it in two and then use a 'V' carving chisel to make a small groove lengthwise for a full length hinge pin (welding rod) on both pieces, then I glue them back together and turn it on my lathe to the final diameter needed to match my cove bit. I found that by sanding a little on a sanding board I could get a perfect glue joint that was virtually invisible. I then drew a straight line along the length of the hinge workpiece so I could realign the grain after cutting. Then I cut the hinge segments with my bench hook using my Japanese saw (sorry, I don't have your saw). The continuous hinge pin prevents any alignment problems. I'm glad I had this opportunity to thank you for that FWW article which has given me the skill to make this hinge which is still my favorite after many years and many boxes..
Worth pointing out that the welding rod is 308L (stainless steel). I dare say you'd want to avoid mild steel or aluminium for corrosion and strength purposes
My questions/comments assume you're using a core/round nose router bit for this video. Otherwise, a ball mill end cutter as Frank comments below would appear to be the better option. Can you explain the setup in greater detail for cutting the groove(s) to seat the dowel or do you have a different video that explains it? You state that you want to seat the dowel past the pin (halfway point) to give maximum glue surface and strength for the pin. However once you begin to cut the groove past the diameter of the dowel using a core/round nose bit, flat surfaces would begin to appear in the material you're cutting in. This type bit can only cut half the diameter of the dowel so how do you seat the dowel past the halfway point without gaps appearing between the flat edges created in the material and the dowel? Am I making any sense? I'll assume for a 3/8" dowel you'd use a 3/16" radius bit which would give you a 3/8" diameter groove (Freud/Diablo #DR18106). Once you start cutting the groove past this point, you begin to have flat surfaces in the material and as the dowel is round, only half of it will seat. Since the dowel is round, the deeper you cut into the material, a gap will be created by the flat edges of the material and the dowel. At exactly the 10:00 minute mark in this video you show the dowel seated past the halfway point. It appears there is a flat edge in the material and to me, the only way you seated the dowel fully was to shave off part of it to meet that flat edge. Is this what you did? Unless you're using a different diameter bit than the dowel, I can't see how you'd seat more than half of it without some kind of modification. Even then, it wouldn't appear to seat properly as now you have 2 different radii. Thank you for your time and sorry to ramble. I'm somewhat new and trying to learn.
OK, I think I see my error. While I think my math is correct, I thought the groove for the lid went on the edge of the lid (like the side/back) when it actually goes on the bottom of the lid. For a 1/2" dowel, you will need a 1/4" radius (1/2" diameter) round nose bit. Cut a 1/4" deep groove on the bottom edge of the lid and try and cut it approx. 1/8" from the edge. This gives you a 1/2" diameter groove (half circle), 3/8" deep from the edge. Do the same on the top edge of the back side of the box. This will give you the same groove as the lid. After mating them and viewing them from the end, you should have formed a 1/2" diameter "hole" 3/8" deep from the edge exposing 1/8" outside the box that you will sand/cut off later after assembly. Is this more like it? No long response necessary, unless I'm wrong again, and again, thank you for your time.
Hey Rob. Thanks for the quick reply. I did what you said and it worked well. I made a test hinge and applied Boiled linseed oil to the inside of the joint to see if it affected the action and it had no negative effects so I finished the inside of the box with the BLO and it looks great and did not negatively effect the action. Thanks again. Love the jig and the hinge makes the box extra special. Gave you credit on lumberjacks. lumberjocks.com/projects/368657
Thanks for sharing this Rob. On a side note, I signed up for your online hand tool workshop. Is it normal for it to take several days to get approved for the free trial ? Sorry for asking here, but it won't let me post on the forums there. thank you
Hey Nogglenuts, let me school you on how to communicate. You expect the youtuber to take the time to answer your question when you throw in a stab. Are you stupid or just ignorant? Have you ever thought before you spoke (typed)? Most intelligent folks would see the stupidity in this approach, that leaves you out of the "intelligent folks" group. So my answer to you is simple, BUZZ OFF!
Please don't take that the wrong way. That wasn't my intent. I'm only saying that because you do work with an air of arrogance. When you're working with others you just seem to be so "matter of fact" that someone could take you the wrong way. And if you are arrogant then I can hardly blame you since you are a master in the field that you've chosen. And lastly, all the other videos such as Wranglerstar and Samurai Carpenter have all given you your props but you haven't given them yours. Again, please don't take offense to this comment. I love watching your videos.
Some people (a lot of people) confuse confidence with arrogance. Professionals that display an air of confidence are often accused of being arrogant. It is a matter of perception on the observers part and not necessarily a matter of fact. #KeepTheChipsFlying!
I can remember exactly where I was when I watched the utube video of Rob Cosman when said “if you learn how to use hand planes it will change the way you do woodworking”. I am about to finish up a Mahogany Hall Table that I'm very proud of because I learned how to use hand planes. These were my first set of inset drawers I've ever done and I would hate to try it without a hand plane. One of the drawer faces had a bit of a twist and was able to solve that in no time.
Thank you. I tired to figure out how you did it, and came close, but only close. I'm also glad you have your dvd's on a download now, as living in S. America, shipping is a killer. Thanks.
Thanx for your eagerness to share the finest technics. Yours gratefully...
Hi Rob. Quite a few years ago I saw an old article by yourself in an FWW article showing how you made your wooden hinged boxes using the little dowel jig. I have since made quite a few boxes with this type of hinge thanks to you. However, I didn't like having an individual hinge pin between each hinge segment, so instead, I use a single piece of wood the full length of the box hinge, rip it in two and then use a 'V' carving chisel to make a small groove lengthwise for a full length hinge pin (welding rod) on both pieces, then I glue them back together and turn it on my lathe to the final diameter needed to match my cove bit. I found that by sanding a little on a sanding board I could get a perfect glue joint that was virtually invisible. I then drew a straight line along the length of the hinge workpiece so I could realign the grain after cutting. Then I cut the hinge segments with my bench hook using my Japanese saw (sorry, I don't have your saw). The continuous hinge pin prevents any alignment problems. I'm glad I had this opportunity to thank you for that FWW article which has given me the skill to make this hinge which is still my favorite after many years and many boxes..
Thoes are amazing box hinges. Looks like they were made in a CNC machine, that's how perfect you made them. Awesome
i have watched a lot of videos over the months. you have my attention sir. thank you for sharing your tips.
You make awesome content...long time fan and I haven’t watched a video that I didn’t like
I'm impressed with your work. The welding rod is about a mid grade of stainless steel.
A ball end mill cutter, (single end) can be purchased at most machinist supply houses, if you can't find an accurate core-box bit.
Frank
I love your wood hinges!
Nice work! You really know what you're doing. Somehow I feel like my boxes with slot hinges are sub-par now.
Great method. I finally ordered the 4 size kit and dvd.
Enjoy and post your boxes
Rob, love box with the proud contrasting wood (walnut?). Would like to see more pictures.
Worth pointing out that the welding rod is 308L (stainless steel). I dare say you'd want to avoid mild steel or aluminium for corrosion and strength purposes
I saw Jimmy Diresta put the dowel in the drill and spun it and put the drill bit into it by hand and it came out perfect.
Which vid?
Does the hinge allow a full 90-degree opening (or more, or less)? I'm intrigued!!
thanks a lot you gave me many many ideas . . .
I’m interested in making dowels my self!
Hi Rob, TFS "thanks for sharing. G :)
You could make that hole centering jig from hardwood or yew
My questions/comments assume you're using a core/round nose router bit for this video. Otherwise, a ball mill end cutter as Frank comments below would appear to be the better option.
Can you explain the setup in greater detail for cutting the groove(s) to seat the dowel or do you have a different video that explains it? You state that you want to seat the dowel past the pin (halfway point) to give maximum glue surface and strength for the pin. However once you begin to cut the groove past the diameter of the dowel using a core/round nose bit, flat surfaces would begin to appear in the material you're cutting in. This type bit can only cut half the diameter of the dowel so how do you seat the dowel past the halfway point without gaps appearing between the flat edges created in the material and the dowel? Am I making any sense?
I'll assume for a 3/8" dowel you'd use a 3/16" radius bit which would give you a 3/8" diameter groove (Freud/Diablo #DR18106). Once you start cutting the groove past this point, you begin to have flat surfaces in the material and as the dowel is round, only half of it will seat. Since the dowel is round, the deeper you cut into the material, a gap will be created by the flat edges of the material and the dowel.
At exactly the 10:00 minute mark in this video you show the dowel seated past the halfway point. It appears there is a flat edge in the material and to me, the only way you seated the dowel fully was to shave off part of it to meet that flat edge. Is this what you did?
Unless you're using a different diameter bit than the dowel, I can't see how you'd seat more than half of it without some kind of modification. Even then, it wouldn't appear to seat properly as now you have 2 different radii.
Thank you for your time and sorry to ramble. I'm somewhat new and trying to learn.
OK, I think I see my error. While I think my math is correct, I thought the groove for the lid went on the edge of the lid (like the side/back) when it actually goes on the bottom of the lid. For a 1/2" dowel, you will need a 1/4" radius (1/2" diameter) round nose bit. Cut a 1/4" deep groove on the bottom edge of the lid and try and cut it approx. 1/8" from the edge. This gives you a 1/2" diameter groove (half circle), 3/8" deep from the edge. Do the same on the top edge of the back side of the box. This will give you the same groove as the lid. After mating them and viewing them from the end, you should have formed a 1/2" diameter "hole" 3/8" deep from the edge exposing 1/8" outside the box that you will sand/cut off later after assembly. Is this more like it? No long response necessary, unless I'm wrong again, and again, thank you for your time.
Hey Rob. I bought your hinge jig and made a few and love it. One question - how do you manage not letting finish mess up the action of the hinge?
Hey Rob. Thanks for the quick reply. I did what you said and it worked well. I made a test hinge and applied Boiled linseed oil to the inside of the joint to see if it affected the action and it had no negative effects so I finished the inside of the box with the BLO and it looks great and did not negatively effect the action. Thanks again. Love the jig and the hinge makes the box extra special. Gave you credit on lumberjacks. lumberjocks.com/projects/368657
Best place for wood ?
thanks
For now, I think that Woody Hyezmar is still giving his Woodworking Bible to those who are interested. Just though I’d mention it.
Thanks for sharing this Rob. On a side note, I signed up for your online hand tool workshop. Is it normal for it to take several days to get approved for the free trial ? Sorry for asking here, but it won't let me post on the forums there.
thank you
thanks a lot....
lovely design really don’t like surface mounted hinges.
TIG filler welding rod FYI. 308 stainless steel. Every welding shop will have it.
The rod is 308 stainless means it's 100% stainless and will never rust
How do we get the video
robcosman.com
That was a long commercial.
gadasz i gadasz ale nie pokazaujesz jak ten zawias skladesz za gadanie wielki minus
DVD's in 2015... LOL
Does not show assembling dowel pieces? Does not show glue up? Do all dowels get glued to top or back, or alternate? Time wasting video.
NoggleBaum I appreciate the negative comment. Maybe this will satisfy you?
th-cam.com/video/87vbqCQUigE/w-d-xo.html
Hey Nogglenuts, let me school you on how to communicate. You expect the youtuber to take the time to answer your question when you throw in a stab. Are you stupid or just ignorant? Have you ever thought before you spoke (typed)? Most intelligent folks would see the stupidity in this approach, that leaves you out of the "intelligent folks" group. So my answer to you is simple, BUZZ OFF!
I have seen way better wooden hinges that this method!!
Post a link and we’ll share it
Rob am I wrong or you a little on the arrogant side?
Please don't take that the wrong way. That wasn't my intent.
I'm only saying that because you do work with an air of arrogance. When you're working with others you just seem to be so "matter of fact" that someone could take you the wrong way. And if you are arrogant then I can hardly blame you since you are a master in the field that you've chosen.
And lastly, all the other videos such as Wranglerstar and Samurai Carpenter have all given you your props but you haven't given them yours.
Again, please don't take offense to this comment. I love watching your videos.
Some people (a lot of people) confuse confidence with arrogance. Professionals that display an air of confidence are often accused of being arrogant. It is a matter of perception on the observers part and not necessarily a matter of fact. #KeepTheChipsFlying!