I keep a bookmark for my browser dedicated to educational woodworking material (videos, books, etc.), and it's pretty much all Rob Cosman videos! I've now found a use for my old Stanley blade.
Thanks Rob... This really fits in with my plans for a birthday gift for my Granddaughter. Y'know, I have seen several vidoes on hidden hinges but nothing comes close to the way you present the information. Believe me, it's really appreciated, and I'm not easy!
Thank you so much for your support of the disabled Veterans. I am a Disabled Veteran my self and I know how it make them fell that someone cares. I would really like more more information on your dust collection in your new shop. Mostly how it is so quiet. I am trying to setup a very small wood shop to work in. Have to keep everything a good distance apart do to on bad days with my back I am in a electric wheelchair. But the VA has been good to me, that I have it do to I have to have it to go out shopping for food and other things. People like you and others on TH-cam make me want to get out and make thanks. Thanks again for what you and the people that work with you to try and help others. It is very important work, please do not stop.
I’ve learned so much watching Rob. The way I thank him is by buying stuff off of his website. If he’s taught you and you want to say thanks, go buy something, it’s all quality…what else would you expect? And if you buy two different times, he really calls you. Awesome guy!! Thanks for all your teaching!
Rob, you demonstrate a great deal of accuracy in your work. I work in the metrology field and would like to offer you a tip. You will get a more accurate measurement from calipers if you measure closer to the shoulder of the jaws. The measurement is based on the inside jaw's mount travel down the bar, the closer to the bar the better. You can get deflection from the end of the jaws which will skew your measurement. Great work and video as always.
Rob - I confess my sin of envy over your doweling jig when you first showed us during TTH. THANK YOU for taking us through this in such humble detail! The BANE of my wood hinges has been in dowel making. I am making this jig TODAY!
ok -- as usual , your videos have my wallet open again! In all honesty, your video series tend to draw me to tools and projects that i would otherwise not have interest in. 2 years ago i visited the shop and Jake showed me how to sharpen a plane blade -- so i left there with a new plane and stones. Since then i cannot imagine touching any project without my 5 1/2 plane that is laser sharp . As a hobby cabinet maker working with plywood, i never would have dreamed of grabbing a plane for what i was doing. With the hand tools, i can now tackle much finer work with solid wood. Now , after watching your several videos on box making, i am now on-line ordering your jigs and video thank you -- wood working is more enjoyable learning from a great teacher.
Thanks for this video. It seems that the more tools that I acquire, the more I learn about others that I need. The need for more tools seems to accelerate...
Rob, I really like your videos as they explain your steps AND reasons for them very nicely. I've been a machinist for 50+ years and enjoy and appreciate precision. It sometimes wants to bite me in the backside, but part of making stuff is also hiding the mistakes in a new method that turns out to be 'as intended'. Well, back to my comment. In machining, we use a center drill before the drill. So instead of using that tapered reamer AFTER you drill, why are you not using it first? You may have a good answer. But the center drill, or in this case, the tapered reamer acts as a guide/starter hole for the drill, and doesn't turn a burr into the hole. It also insures the drill can't do any wandering in the beginning. Your thoughts please. Great work, and I really enjoy watching you work. I send hours at a time on your channel. Thanks, Paul Bertsch, Huntington Beach CA.
I certainly like your attention to detail Professor Cos. Another video that really is detailed for anyone to understand. That you again and keep them coming.
I have made a couple of these jigs for different diameter dowels. What I did was after drilling the desired hole diameter followed by the flair, I cut the waste away so just a portion of the top of the dowel diameter hole was just showing and I did not worry about uncovering the top of the hole uniformly off the saw. I then slowly filed the surface where the cutter rests on the jig with a large flat file to open the area above the dowel diameter uniformly. I then continued to file the cutter bed slowly removing wood to sneak up on the desired diameter of the cut dowel and to make sure the cutter was resting on a flat surface. Several trail dowel cuts were needed to dial in the diameter while slowly filing the cutter bed away. The other thing I did was to leave a small amount of wood of the jig over the top of the entry point of the jig so the rough dowel would not spin out of the jig while starting the cutting. Once the desired diameter was achieved and the cutter orientation set, I marked the cutter location as you did for future use. Thank you Rob for sharing your knowledge of woodworking with us! I love these wooden hinges and you can't beat the price too!😉😉😉
Great video. I have been struggling with my attempt at making a doweling jig. I will be trying this method. Very detailed instructions. Thanks Rob and Jake
Thanks, Rob. I have been struggling to understand the precise geometry of your dowel jigs but with the careful shimming, it makes perfect sense. I am going to try this in a wood like beech with a bit of wax in the exit hole.
Thank you for making this video! I've had some problems with making the dowels. Looking forward to all the little details on getting this just right. :)
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ok I gave it a whirl two ways. Fist I waxed the feed stock which gummed up the cutting blade. Then I put wax on a dowel and used it to wax the hole. That worked great EXCEPT the dowel came out with wax on it which led to a clean up which changed the dowel size. If you don’t clean it it won’t hold glue. Fun experiment but back to the Rob method
Hello from South Florida. Pask Makes referenced you in a recent video and I wanted to check things out. Keep up the good work because I just subscribed! Merry Christmas!
Hi Rob, I am from South Africa and have watched a number of your transfer of your skills to many a piece of wood. Thank you for sharing this particular novel hinge "trick" that can come useful on certain instances. What came to mind while watching this hedge been made, I was wondering if the size of the dowel neeeds to be the same thickness as the rear and top piece. Could I use it on a 12mm dowel for instance. Look forward to your input Rgds Lucio
My dad use to make his own dowels to. He made ajg that used a router with a straight shank and you feed your square stock in one side spinning it with a drill and just pushed it through. The bad thing was it waste a few inches on both ends but you can do a 8 ft rod in a less than a minute if you wanted to. It worked a lot like yours except instead of a chisel you had a router.
Another great demo! I've been thinking about your doweling jig for a while - I think I first noticed it in one of your online video's - and was considering how to make one myself. Now I know the steps! Thank you!
Wow, that was great, Rob~! I will definitely be making this jig, as I want to pick up the dowel hinge kit~! I have a chunk of Teak that I think will work great...very hard and naturally oily. I'll just have to pick up a plane blade. Thank you for another great tutorial~!!
Regarding shimming up the blade, masking tape is very compressible so the force with which you tighten the clamp can significantly alter the thickness of masking tape shims. I imagine the reason that the 0.001" shim you put last didn't alter the diameter of the dowel is that you clamped it down harder than you had without the steel shim thus compressing the tape underneath.
Hello from Sydney, Thank you for the great video Mr Cosman!, quick question, what setting (torque) do you have your drill set at? and what speed do you recommend (1 or 2)?
Genius! I’m going to make one (need a plane blade) and if it works will invest in the hinge jig as they look so good. Now I just need you to get the shoulder vice back in stock so I can ship together to me downunder.......👍
If you are planing away the corners of a square rod, what you get is an octagon section, (8 sides) not hexagon (6 sides) unless you only plane away two of the corners. ( no pun intended).
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, sorry but yes, at 3.24, 7.41, 7.52 and some other times. Please do not take my comment as an offence or me being picky. I make the same mistake sometimes that's why I noticed it.
Can the jig be waxed smooth? I was thinking a hard setting wax. I think a carnauba way could be perfect. It buffs out and dries hard. Really hard and smooth, glass smooth
Hello Rob, your wooden hinge boxes are just great! Could you please link your conical drill once? I was finally able to see what, in your opinion, the dowel maker is all about. I think the conical drill you use is quite ideal in terms of size and cone. Unfortunately I can't find a similar one yet. As a rule, they are always shorter and have a stronger cone. Thank you very much!!! 👍
Hi Rob, my dowell hinges dont glue half the time. Im done using tightbond 3 and am going to use epoxy and wax in future. Im not sure what im doing wrong. Im following your instructions exactly and the dowel fits perfectly. Can you lubricate the dowel end grain? Maybe with wax? Could that help?
If I were to use something like Maple for the cutter block, is there some sort of lubricant I can use to help keep the dowel from burning? Something I can remove with Lacquer thinner or Acetone later.
Thanks Rob! You make it look easy. Could one use a bolt to hold the plane blade and use a mallet to fine tune the fit? I purchased your dowel pin drill jig and it tends to burn store bought dowels, so I will be excited to make my own
RobCosman.com the bolt would go in the slot in the plane blade, then you could advance the blade with the mallet from the heel of the blade. From the video, it seemed like the most important factor is the height of the blade from the center of the hole instead of how forward the blade is or the angle of the blade.
Hmmm… it seems that some HDPE or, even, nylon would work great: self-lubricating and not leaving and marks / color on the wood. It would also have a little more tolerance for the forcing a non-round peg in a round hole. A round-over, bead-forming, similar bit to reduce the size of the dowel, perhaps 1/16"+ larger than the dowel size needed, in this case ¼" and then sending this true a cove bit groove with the plane blade topping off the “unfinished” dowel to be ¼" round. This might be faster than making an octagon, or making something more round (with a table saw), such as a decagon could work. None-the-less, this is just more work when a router bit could more easily shape a closer diameter that can be finalized with precisely placed plane blade rather than doing a similar action with a table saw. I suppose one could to a once-thru pass on a table saw with a dada stack with a ¼"+ or ⅜"+ gap and then let the final pass-thru with our plane blade shaping tool finish the job. It would also be beneficial to draw this up in a program like CorelDraw that would more precisely show what kind of dimensions would work relative to where to place the plane blade.
An idea we have been working on to make it easier for tired fingers to adjust the blade depth. We call it the “adjuSTAR”. Made to fit Woodriver planes and we have a model to fit Lie-Nielsen planes. RobCosman.com
That blood wood was gorgeous. I have a question though. Would it be possible to use something like maple and wax the hole? Thanks again for the great content
Rob, do you know why the table saw blade didn't open the drill hole evenly without having to use masking tape on the bloodwood? Did it have something to do with the squareness of the wood or table saw blade relative to fence? Or was it the drill hole not being quite parallel to the blood wood's surface, which may explain why shimming the back of the piece with masking tape worked? Just curious, thanks!
The LN dowel plate has 2 isdues which i dont like for wood hinges 1) it makes a dowel by scraping not cutting so the surface is rough not smooth and 2) its super hard to make a straight cut on it since there is no long hole to guide the stock. I dont recommend it for this application
Another great video Rob! Jake, assuming he is the one responsible for editing, has definitely upped his game with easily manageable breaks in the video, added notations and excellent camera work. I look forward to what both of you have in store for us. Regarding the jig itself, do you think there is any merit to making the platform out of aluminum, steel or plastic like Delrin?
Hey Rob. I’m getting dowels that are on spec finally but they’re just not that smooth and tend to have tons of the concentric rings. I get them super close to .25” before even sending them through the jig. Any ideas?
@robcosman.com ... looks like you are using a Woodriver adjustable block plane blade... low or standard angle? Do you prepare the blade any differently than if you were using it in the plane? Thanks.
I like the idea of showing the rings of endgrain at the ends of the box. Possibly cutting a thick veneer (1-2mm) and gluing it to a substrate would work.......... but then of course, you have the problem of hiding the substrate. Something to think about :)
Auger bits...For what. To make the jig you just need good brad point drill to match the hige size you are making and a reamer bit (see 7:47 in the video)
I’m a newbie woodworker who hopes to build a shooter board having seen its importance. I just purchased a used Hartford Jointer Plane C7 and think it would work with the shooter board. The problem is,this plane has a Corrugated Bottom. Will this be a problem?
I have tried to design and build a dowel jig 5 times, most recently using a 2-stage design and 3D printing the body. Each time it gets a bit better, but the friction on the backside of the cutting edge is always the problem to which I have not found a solution. I've used reground planer blades, plane irons, etc. It looks like attempt 6 will be in the offing, and perhaps I can find some lignum wood or otherwise figure out how to support it. I'd love to find a solid solution.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking My apologies for the vagueness. The problem is the pressure on the other side of the dowel under the blade. Whatever backing I've used burns badly, or melts the plastic in the case of a 3D printed jig. I'll try an exotic wood backing/instert; so far maple, oak, and teak have all failed. I've tried a "2 stage" design where one blade trims to a rough fit for the final finish (to save time prepping the dowel). The rough cut works well, which is set up like a pencil sharpener, and your video gave me some good ideas for the fine cut. Love the videos, keep up the good work! (I'm a BYU grad also, but in Electrical Engineering...)
My question to you dear sir is: Can this wood hinge work with hardwear store dowels. You said în The begining Off The video that it is imposibile. Is this the only way, By doing your own dowels? Do you need The dowel centering jig? Thanks!
Love your videos. You have a tendency to repeat key phrases or possible gotchas across different videos- often with a slight variation. I’ll hear you say something 10 times and barely register it. Then on the 11th [Or 20th] it clicks and makes sense. You’re good at bridging the gap between someone hearing you and someone understanding you. Keep up the good work!
First either your saw t fence isnt square or more likely your Drill Press to Table isnt, But as for your tool, you needed a Deeper Bloodwood, so you could drill a Hole and Just have a Bolt and T-nut on top Hold the blade down to it, instead of a Clamp.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
I keep a bookmark for my browser dedicated to educational woodworking material (videos, books, etc.), and it's pretty much all Rob Cosman videos! I've now found a use for my old Stanley blade.
Thanks Rob... This really fits in with my plans for a birthday gift for my Granddaughter. Y'know, I have seen several vidoes on hidden hinges but nothing comes close to the way you present the information. Believe me, it's really appreciated, and I'm not easy!
Well, that was brilliant. Well laid out clearly explained. I fancy I could do that.
Mr. Cosman you constantly amaze me! Keep with your content and way of teaching. Dont change.
Thank you so much for your support of the disabled Veterans. I am a Disabled Veteran my self and I know how it make them fell that someone cares. I would really like more more information on your dust collection in your new shop. Mostly how it is so quiet. I am trying to setup a very small wood shop to work in. Have to keep everything a good distance apart do to on bad days with my back I am in a electric wheelchair. But the VA has been good to me, that I have it do to I have to have it to go out shopping for food and other things. People like you and others on TH-cam make me want to get out and make thanks. Thanks again for what you and the people that work with you to try and help others. It is very important work, please do not stop.
We have a couple videos up on it. The collector is in a separate room and we purchased the noise reducer thats avaliable for it
Thanks. A useful, clear demonstration.
I’ve learned so much watching Rob. The way I thank him is by buying stuff off of his website. If he’s taught you and you want to say thanks, go buy something, it’s all quality…what else would you expect? And if you buy two different times, he really calls you. Awesome guy!! Thanks for all your teaching!
Rob, you demonstrate a great deal of accuracy in your work. I work in the metrology field and would like to offer you a tip. You will get a more accurate measurement from calipers if you measure closer to the shoulder of the jaws. The measurement is based on the inside jaw's mount travel down the bar, the closer to the bar the better. You can get deflection from the end of the jaws which will skew your measurement. Great work and video as always.
Great tip, thanks
Ditto - GREAT tip
Great solution to a all to common problem. Love it!
Rob - I confess my sin of envy over your doweling jig when you first showed us during TTH. THANK YOU for taking us through this in such humble detail! The BANE of my wood hinges has been in dowel making. I am making this jig TODAY!
Send me a pic when done
ok -- as usual , your videos have my wallet open again! In all honesty, your video series tend to draw me to tools and projects that i would otherwise not have interest in.
2 years ago i visited the shop and Jake showed me how to sharpen a plane blade -- so i left there with a new plane and stones. Since then i cannot imagine touching any project without my 5 1/2 plane that is laser sharp . As a hobby cabinet maker working with plywood, i never would have dreamed of grabbing a plane for what i was doing. With the hand tools, i can now tackle much finer work with solid wood.
Now , after watching your several videos on box making, i am now on-line ordering your jigs and video
thank you -- wood working is more enjoyable learning from a great teacher.
Thanks for this video. It seems that the more tools that I acquire, the more I learn about others that I need. The need for more tools seems to accelerate...
Is that good or bad?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Good if you're the tool company, bad if you're my wallet!
Very interesting, Rob. Thanks for sharing this video.
Rob, I really like your videos as they explain your steps AND reasons for them very nicely. I've been a machinist for 50+ years and enjoy and appreciate precision. It sometimes wants to bite me in the backside, but part of making stuff is also hiding the mistakes in a new method that turns out to be 'as intended'. Well, back to my comment. In machining, we use a center drill before the drill. So instead of using that tapered reamer AFTER you drill, why are you not using it first? You may have a good answer. But the center drill, or in this case, the tapered reamer acts as a guide/starter hole for the drill, and doesn't turn a burr into the hole. It also insures the drill can't do any wandering in the beginning. Your thoughts please. Great work, and I really enjoy watching you work. I send hours at a time on your channel. Thanks, Paul Bertsch, Huntington Beach CA.
I certainly like your attention to detail Professor Cos. Another video that really is detailed for anyone to understand. That you again and keep them coming.
Wow, thank you!
I have made a couple of these jigs for different diameter dowels. What I did was after drilling the desired hole diameter followed by the flair, I cut the waste away so just a portion of the top of the dowel diameter hole was just showing and I did not worry about uncovering the top of the hole uniformly off the saw. I then slowly filed the surface where the cutter rests on the jig with a large flat file to open the area above the dowel diameter uniformly. I then continued to file the cutter bed slowly removing wood to sneak up on the desired diameter of the cut dowel and to make sure the cutter was resting on a flat surface. Several trail dowel cuts were needed to dial in the diameter while slowly filing the cutter bed away. The other thing I did was to leave a small amount of wood of the jig over the top of the entry point of the jig so the rough dowel would not spin out of the jig while starting the cutting. Once the desired diameter was achieved and the cutter orientation set, I marked the cutter location as you did for future use. Thank you Rob for sharing your knowledge of woodworking with us! I love these wooden hinges and you can't beat the price too!😉😉😉
Great job and thanks for explaining what you did for others
I truly appreciate your instructional videos. Thank you for contributing your knowledge.
You are very welcome
Great job, learned a lot. Thank you.
I love the detail on this one
Glad it was helpful
Another great video. Thanks Rob
Thnaks
i'm making one of these as i'm watching the video. had to order the reamer from lee valley and your dowel drilling gadget is on the way
Great video. I have been struggling with my attempt at making a doweling jig. I will be trying this method. Very detailed instructions. Thanks Rob and Jake
Dont forget COL Luter he writes, produces, directs and edits every video !
Rob, I love the pride you take in your work and the excitement in your voice when something you're doing really comes together.
Thank you!
Never ceases to amaze me, the literally perfect fit on those hinges. COMPLETELY disappear! I doubt a hair could be slid in there...
It was very detailed, thanks for that.
Learned a lot that will save some time when I have to try for myself.
Another awesome how to video.
Thanks
Ive got to make one of these when my tools arrive 😬👍
Very good idea for making dowels, greetings!
Howdie
Love that dowel jig idea. Must go make one now. Thanks a lot for sharing. Your videos are great.
Glad you like them!what time is it there?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking It is now 5pm, still plenty daylight to do something or maybe watch some more Rob's tips :)
Thanks, Rob. I have been struggling to understand the precise geometry of your dowel jigs but with the careful shimming, it makes perfect sense. I am going to try this in a wood like beech with a bit of wax in the exit hole.
I think that will work fine
Thank you for making this video! I've had some problems with making the dowels. Looking forward to all the little details on getting this just right. :)
Glad it was helpful!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ok I gave it a whirl two ways. Fist I waxed the feed stock which gummed up the cutting blade. Then I put wax on a dowel and used it to wax the hole. That worked great EXCEPT the dowel came out with wax on it which led to a clean up which changed the dowel size. If you don’t clean it it won’t hold glue. Fun experiment but back to the Rob method
thanks
Hello from South Florida. Pask Makes
referenced you in a recent video and I wanted to check things out. Keep up the good work because I just subscribed! Merry Christmas!
amazing, great ww master
Great video! My wood dowel drill jig is on its way
Let me know how it does
@@RobCosmanWoodworking will do!
Hi Rob, I am from South Africa and have watched a number of your transfer of your skills to many a piece of wood. Thank you for sharing this particular novel hinge "trick" that can come useful on certain instances. What came to mind while watching this hedge been made, I was wondering if the size of the dowel neeeds to be the same thickness as the rear and top piece. Could I use it on a 12mm dowel for instance. Look forward to your input Rgds
Lucio
For sure i learned in this videos the teory of how to cut Windsor leg joints shape
????
My dad use to make his own dowels to. He made ajg that used a router with a straight shank and you feed your square stock in one side spinning it with a drill and just pushed it through. The bad thing was it waste a few inches on both ends but you can do a 8 ft rod in a less than a minute if you wanted to. It worked a lot like yours except instead of a chisel you had a router.
Another great demo! I've been thinking about your doweling jig for a while - I think I first noticed it in one of your online video's - and was considering how to make one myself. Now I know the steps! Thank you!
Time to make one
Wow, that was great, Rob~! I will definitely be making this jig, as I want to pick up the dowel hinge kit~! I have a chunk of Teak that I think will work great...very hard and naturally oily. I'll just have to pick up a plane blade. Thank you for another great tutorial~!!
Teak is perfect. You can also use a sharp old chisel
Great overview. I got the wood hinge kit for Christmas so I’ll give this a go this weekend. Got to get the dowels made first after all!
I do not know if anyone suggested this, but instead of using tape to find the spacing for the cutter, you can use a feeler gauge.
Nive, very nice indeed.
Thanks for watching
At 4:45 what does the 1/4 in = 0.045 mean? What units if the 0.045?
0.25 is more like it.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate the help.
:)
Thanks for watching
Regarding shimming up the blade, masking tape is very compressible so the force with which you tighten the clamp can significantly alter the thickness of masking tape shims. I imagine the reason that the 0.001" shim you put last didn't alter the diameter of the dowel is that you clamped it down harder than you had without the steel shim thus compressing the tape underneath.
as long as the diametre of the dowel comes out correctly its OK. If you want to use other shim material go right ahead
Hello from Sydney, Thank you for the great video Mr Cosman!, quick question, what setting (torque) do you have your drill set at? and what speed do you recommend (1 or 2)?
cool
Hi Rob. Question. Is the dowel supposed to be the same thickness of the box material thickness?
Love the ingenuity! I'll make mine out of Verawood, after I make a few for practice, that is!
Good idea
Genius! I’m going to make one (need a plane blade) and if it works will invest in the hinge jig as they look so good. Now I just need you to get the shoulder vice back in stock so I can ship together to me downunder.......👍
You can also use a sharp chisel blade
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ok thanks that’s the way then.....
If you are planing away the corners of a square rod, what you get is an octagon section, (8 sides) not hexagon (6 sides) unless you only plane away two of the corners. ( no pun intended).
Did I say hexigon some place?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, sorry but yes, at 3.24, 7.41, 7.52 and some other times. Please do not take my comment as an offence or me being picky. I make the same mistake sometimes that's why I noticed it.
Is there a tutorial to build that sliding cover boxes you use to ship your saws?
Can the jig be waxed smooth? I was thinking a hard setting wax. I think a carnauba way could be perfect. It buffs out and dries hard. Really hard and smooth, glass smooth
Rob do you think a 1/4” wave cutter forstener bit could be a good alternative to the regular drill bit to make the dowel hole? Thank you!
This is very cool. I'll give it a try. PS. Love the grey Cdn Tire C clamp on the original. I have one. Vintage.
vintage rules!
Hello Rob, your wooden hinge boxes are just great!
Could you please link your conical drill once?
I was finally able to see what, in your opinion, the dowel maker is all about.
I think the conical drill you use is quite ideal in terms of size and cone.
Unfortunately I can't find a similar one yet. As a rule, they are always shorter and have a stronger cone.
Thank you very much!!! 👍
Will a 2x6 support a swing?
Hi Rob, my dowell hinges dont glue half the time. Im done using tightbond 3 and am going to use epoxy and wax in future. Im not sure what im doing wrong. Im following your instructions exactly and the dowel fits perfectly. Can you lubricate the dowel end grain? Maybe with wax? Could that help?
Would tzalam work for this? It's really hard, but I'm not sure about oily..
I sometimes do not get a smooth finish on my dowel. It gets chipout and splinters out. Is the the grain direction?
Instead of lignum, could a domestic hardwood be used with some paste wax? Maybe the wax would interfere with gluing. I don't know.
If I were to use something like Maple for the cutter block, is there some sort of lubricant I can use to help keep the dowel from burning? Something I can remove with Lacquer thinner or Acetone later.
I would just try waxing the interior with paste wax...Maybe use a Q tip
Thanks Rob! You make it look easy. Could one use a bolt to hold the plane blade and use a mallet to fine tune the fit? I purchased your dowel pin drill jig and it tends to burn store bought dowels, so I will be excited to make my own
I think a bolt would work. I dont understand how you envision using a mallet to fine tune the fit though.
RobCosman.com the bolt would go in the slot in the plane blade, then you could advance the blade with the mallet from the heel of the blade. From the video, it seemed like the most important factor is the height of the blade from the center of the hole instead of how forward the blade is or the angle of the blade.
Hmmm… it seems that some HDPE or, even, nylon would work great: self-lubricating and not leaving and marks / color on the wood. It would also have a little more tolerance for the forcing a non-round peg in a round hole. A round-over, bead-forming, similar bit to reduce the size of the dowel, perhaps 1/16"+ larger than the dowel size needed, in this case ¼" and then sending this true a cove bit groove with the plane blade topping off the “unfinished” dowel to be ¼" round. This might be faster than making an octagon, or making something more round (with a table saw), such as a decagon could work. None-the-less, this is just more work when a router bit could more easily shape a closer diameter that can be finalized with precisely placed plane blade rather than doing a similar action with a table saw. I suppose one could to a once-thru pass on a table saw with a dada stack with a ¼"+ or ⅜"+ gap and then let the final pass-thru with our plane blade shaping tool finish the job. It would also be beneficial to draw this up in a program like CorelDraw that would more precisely show what kind of dimensions would work relative to where to place the plane blade.
In your recent videos I have noticed that your depth adjustment is different from the standard wheel could you explain what it is?
An idea we have been working on to make it easier for tired fingers to adjust the blade depth. We call it the “adjuSTAR”. Made to fit Woodriver planes and we have a model to fit Lie-Nielsen planes. RobCosman.com
Typo at 4:49, 1/4” = .045. Should say 1/4”=.25
Yes caught that after the efit. To fix would have taken another 48 hours and didnt want to delay publication
@@RobCosmanWoodworking that’s millennial math or new math 😀
That blood wood was gorgeous. I have a question though. Would it be possible to use something like maple and wax the hole? Thanks again for the great content
Yes, but then you’d be left with wax on your dowel which would effect the glue-able surface.
Ill try with Sapele - the only thing I happen to have on hand today that is naturally oily and hard.
Rob, do you know why the table saw blade didn't open the drill hole evenly without having to use masking tape on the bloodwood? Did it have something to do with the squareness of the wood or table saw blade relative to fence? Or was it the drill hole not being quite parallel to the blood wood's surface, which may explain why shimming the back of the piece with masking tape worked? Just curious, thanks!
😮~ you mean all this time I could have been making my own dowel 🤦🏾♀️~ why haven’t I known about this before
You know when you're watching a master when he spins a G clamp like a gunslingers 45 Colt.
Howdy Partner...as he reaches for his C-Clamp
Cute, very cute.
Thanks for this Rob. How does the LN dowel plate compare to making your own jig?
The LN dowel plate has 2 isdues which i dont like for wood hinges 1) it makes a dowel by scraping not cutting so the surface is rough not smooth and 2) its super hard to make a straight cut on it since there is no long hole to guide the stock. I dont recommend it for this application
Another great video Rob! Jake, assuming he is the one responsible for editing, has definitely upped his game with easily manageable breaks in the video, added notations and excellent camera work. I look forward to what both of you have in store for us. Regarding the jig itself, do you think there is any merit to making the platform out of aluminum, steel or plastic like Delrin?
COL Luther does all the production and direction, Jake does the filming, Frick is the Tech guy, i am the talking head
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Don't see much of Jake. Is he camera shy?
Hey Rob. I’m getting dowels that are on spec finally but they’re just not that smooth and tend to have tons of the concentric rings. I get them super close to .25” before even sending them through the jig. Any ideas?
@robcosman.com ... looks like you are using a Woodriver adjustable block plane blade... low or standard angle? Do you prepare the blade any differently than if you were using it in the plane? Thanks.
Do you think Bubinga would work for the Jig? I dont have any Cocobolo, Lignum Vitae or Ebony to hand.
Bubinga would work
Hi Rob, thanks for sharing ur skills. Just wanna ask if its possible to make this hinge box side pieces from cross cut end grain? Will it hold up?
I have never tried it but doesn’t sound like a good idea to me. Why would you want to do that verses showing off the wood grain?
Haha nothing in particular just something to try, take care
I like the idea of showing the rings of endgrain at the ends of the box. Possibly cutting a thick veneer (1-2mm) and gluing it to a substrate would work.......... but then of course, you have the problem of hiding the substrate. Something to think about :)
I don’t have a lathe, but could the dowel be made on a lathe?
Could you please give me a list of natural oily woods that do not stain the dowel, please?
Lets see, lignum, vitae, cocobolo, ebony, do a google search for oily woods. I have never tried this but high density plastic would probably work too
Would it not work to use a high quality dowel plate?
What auger bit sizes should I get
Auger bits...For what. To make the jig you just need good brad point drill to match the hige size you are making and a reamer bit (see 7:47 in the video)
I’m a newbie woodworker who hopes to build a shooter board having seen its importance. I just purchased a used Hartford Jointer Plane C7 and think it would work with the shooter board. The problem is,this plane has a Corrugated Bottom. Will this be a problem?
Nope
Rob : I struggle with plane not being square/parallel causing an angled cut on edges. Do you have methods to get the muscle memory?
Yes. You should watch my video on planing true and square
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Please also address what to do if a WoodRiver 5 1/2 plane is not square sides to bottom when using a shooting board. Thanks
Do you think PEHD would work ? Exotic woods are not so easy to find in Europe. Online and small stock only.
I am not sure what PEHD is. If you are talking about a high density plastic i haver never tried it but I bet it would work,
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes that's it. I let you know when i try . I just didn't want to waste time if you didn't think it would work.
Let me know how it comes out
Rob, do you think Osage Orange would be a good wood choice for this application?
Its hard so thats good, you might find you have to wax the inside of the hole, but i would try it
I have tried to design and build a dowel jig 5 times, most recently using a 2-stage design and 3D printing the body. Each time it gets a bit better, but the friction on the backside of the cutting edge is always the problem to which I have not found a solution. I've used reground planer blades, plane irons, etc. It looks like attempt 6 will be in the offing, and perhaps I can find some lignum wood or otherwise figure out how to support it. I'd love to find a solid solution.
Specifically what is happening on "The backside of the blade"?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking My apologies for the vagueness. The problem is the pressure on the other side of the dowel under the blade. Whatever backing I've used burns badly, or melts the plastic in the case of a 3D printed jig. I'll try an exotic wood backing/instert; so far maple, oak, and teak have all failed. I've tried a "2 stage" design where one blade trims to a rough fit for the final finish (to save time prepping the dowel). The rough cut works well, which is set up like a pencil sharpener, and your video gave me some good ideas for the fine cut. Love the videos, keep up the good work! (I'm a BYU grad also, but in Electrical Engineering...)
Send me a pic when you get it perfected
What kind of a reamer did you use?
Please see the video at 7:47 we give you the part number and where to purchase it
Is the yellow tape you used as .005 shim special or just a masking tape?
Automotive masking tape
If you want to learn how to make a wood hinge box watch this video: th-cam.com/video/87vbqCQUigE/w-d-xo.html
My question to you dear sir is:
Can this wood hinge work with hardwear store dowels.
You said în The begining Off The video that it is imposibile.
Is this the only way,
By doing your own dowels?
Do you need The dowel centering jig?
Thanks!
Store bought tend to be a bit oval and or undersized. Worth a try. Yes on the center drilling jig, secret to a success hinge!
Where in the world are you that 1/4 inch = .0450
Really ? 1/4" = .25 in thousands.
How do you remove the bloodwood staining??
By throwing it away!
How long before you have to resharpen the blade?
Mine last about a year
If you made the jig out of a standard hardwood say maple could you not solve the lubrication problem by waxing the hole occasionally
Maybe. I have never tried that. Do it and let me know how you make out
would Teak work to make this dowel block
Absolutely
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Tank you. very much appreciated.
Love your videos. You have a tendency to repeat key phrases or possible gotchas across different videos- often with a slight variation. I’ll hear you say something 10 times and barely register it. Then on the 11th [Or 20th] it clicks and makes sense. You’re good at bridging the gap between someone hearing you and someone understanding you.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks. And thanks for watching
I've not used a dial caliper. The text on the screen said 1/4"=.045. .045 what? inches is 0.25.
Do you sell a dowel making jig?
First either your saw t fence isnt square or more likely your Drill Press to Table isnt, But as for your tool, you needed a Deeper Bloodwood, so you could drill a Hole and Just have a Bolt and T-nut on top Hold the blade down to it, instead of a Clamp.