Steve, first time stopping in and seeing your video. You have a great, up beat and happy demeanor and I feel like im just asking a buddy for some help. Great video and thanks!
Hello Steve, I have a Sears table saw model 113.29991. I have restored it, but the blade guard that came with it, was actually not for my saw. I have been looking for weeks trying to find one for my saw. I am intrigued by these. I am going to give it a try, as it is not very smart using the saw without something for the blade. Thank you very much.
Great video Steve! I have the exact table saw, gifted from my grandfather. I've been dipping into the world of woodworking, slowly and respectfully lol. This upgrade will definitely be happening very soon. Thanks for the great material!
That was an informative and honest review of both ZCI's and splitters! As the video was progressing I was thinking about my forgetting to take them out for certain cuts and also probably bending them. Then you brought those issues up and I smiled knowing how you're always honest with us! Thanks my friend, I may have to just break down and save up to buy some!
MRrwmac Thanks Mac! I actually kept some notes since I installed them so I wouldn't forget to mention anything. Now if I can just get myself to put them back on if I have to switch inserts for a cut.
+Sean C Great Sean! I still use mine and they are still working out well for me. Just pay attention to the area behind the blade. There's not much space on mine so I almost went with just one splitter. With two in there, I can only raise the blade to cut just over 1.5" which covers most of what I do. If I go higher it will cut into the splitters.
ShopDawgWoodworking Yeah, there are a lot of us with these older saws that don't have spitters or riving knives. I like having them on there now that I've tried them out.
Great instruction for these, Steve. I also have a 113 saw (purchased in 94) and still love it. I got many years out of the original fence but finally had to change it out with a T-2 fence.
Steve Collins I use the original fence and it works ok for what I do, but I don't trust the ruler. It would be nice to not have to measure from the fence to the blade with a tape measure. Does having the T-2 help with that? I haven't looked into better fences.
My first "real" table saw was one just like your Craftsman. Picked it up for $75 used on CraigsList. It was a great saw! I never got to purchase one of these inserts for it, but it looks great. I made one from some thin plywood and it was "okay". Yours looks great, and well worth the cost to get one. Great review on the splitters as well. Thanks!
The Dropcord Workshop Thank you! Yeah, I was surprised to find the insert for only about $15. They had it in the store too. I guess because it's a very common saw. I still might try to make one sometime, but the challenge will be to keep it flat.
Great practical points to consider. It’s those little things like remembering to put the splitters back on after swapping inserts. Thanks for putting together
I've got my wife's dad's old belt drive Craftsman. Even has the original belt! Had to put a new cord on it but a little cleaning and some oil and it just humms. Those new gadgets look swell! No more than I use the saw I think I'll wait on them Nice Video Steve. Keep on making sawdust!
Lewie McNeely Thanks Lewie! You might want to look into getting a red link belt for it. I was amazed at the reduction of noise and vibration when I replaced the old belt on mine with one of those link belts. My saw sat unused in my dad's shop for about 10 years, so the belt was stuck in one shape which caused a lot of vibration.
Hey Buddy! That's a fine idea. Those link belts sure run smooth. I store mine with the pressure off the belt but If I need another , a link will be the one that goes on it. Thanks for the tips and looking forward to your next project. Keep Kool!
Awesome! Good to hear. Sometimes I have to put my old plate on for angle cuts. When I forget to put the splitter back on, it never fails the next rip cut close up behind the blade.
Good information Steve. I have the identical table saw as you. It has served me well, I just don’t like the fence setup. I still have the original safety guard with the riving knife and anti-kickback spurs. I don’t use it mainly because it was so clunky and more of a hindrance when doing setups and you can’t see what’s going on with it in place. I do however like having a splitter setup like you demonstrated. Thanks again.
Dave I also have an older Craftsman TS and almost got rid of it only because of the terrible fence until I discovered and installed the "Delta T2 Fence System". It really brought new life into my TS and I have been enjoying the smooth and accurate operation for several years.
Hey Steve, I have been looking at these for a while. It's nice to hear your take on them. I have been making my own inserts for a while now but I might just have to give this a try. Thanks for the video and your feedback!
gsxrdemo Thanks! Yeah, it depends on each saw and how big the recess is behind the blade. I have to remember not to raise my blade too high or it will cut into the splitter. I rarely cut anything thicker than 1.5" anyway so it's not really an issue.
Steve > I have two of these old work horses and a number of the ptree inserts and one set up for each of my two forrest blades ( one thin, one 1/8 ). I have to agree with Alain on the riving knife. I fabricated one for this before I found the Micro-Jig splitters and really prefer the splitters. Just as you were saying about the 'groves' and the like, it is a lot easier to just pop them out than remove the knife. It is a shame that the newer saws aren't built as solidly as these beasts.
+clutions I'm still liking this insert/splitter setup. I keep thinking the little pin that secures the back of the splitter will fall out, but it never does. That's the only thing that I would improve. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
thanks for the video. I have the same model saw and have been trying to figure out a way to make it safer. I bought the insert and splitters - anxious to give them a go
Steve, I know this is like 5 years old but I'm sure (if you still have that beast as I do) you've gotten more Zero C inserts. A simple solution to the first cut is to take it out and flip it end over end and place a piece of scrap on top of it and bring your regular blade up until it extends about 1/4 inch. Then lower the blade and reinstall it properly. This is especially useful if you are using a thin kerf blade and don't have a 7 1/4" thin kerf blade. Just my take!
Zero clearance inserts on my table saw are a must have especially for ripping narrow pieces that may fall into the blade (very dangerous!). I have one for angled cuts also. Thanks for the review. Scott
eCabinets tips and tricks I may get another one to use for angle cuts. Did you raise the blade at different angles so it can cut from 0 to 45, or just for 45 deg?
Steve Carmichael The inserts that I use are home made so I just made several for example I have one for 45 deg. And one for 22.5 deg. then I have one that I use for odd angles. When that one starts to get too cut up for my comfort I trash it and slap a new one in. I have not tried the 0 to 45. It would seem to me that if you did it that way the result would be basically the same as the stock insert.
Thanks for the review, my saw has a riving knife but I have been looking for something quicker and less of a hassle to remove. Still a bit on the fence on this solution, worried I'd lose them since they are so small.
Dave's DIY Someone else mentioned keeping them attached to the side of the saw with a magnet. I thought that was a great idea. I keep them in the insert plate so they are always together.
Hi Paton - Cool! It's been a good saw for what I do. The splitters are great especially for ripping 2x4s that almost always bind after the blade. Just had some of those yesterday and it worked great. Also, get one of the chain link belts for it to make it run more smooth and quiet...makes a big difference.
Good info Steve, I'm lucky my saw has all the safety stuff all I needed was a zero clearance insert.. I made a bunch and bought two,one for the regular blade and one for the dado blades. They are a good safety feature.
Backyard Woodworking Thanks Roland! I started to make my own, but the one for this saw is really thin so that made me just buy a plastic one that would stay flat.
Thanks for the review. I have an older Jet table saw without a riving knife, and frankly it makes me nervous when ripping. I'll give these a try (and thankfully I live right near Peachtree Woodworking so I can pick them up there).
Even with brand new saw they're great. I got used to the those splitters on my old saw, when I bought a new one I didn't even bother to install my riving knife, I just bought another inset plate and install a set of splitters. BTW I bought 2 insert plates and I never remove my splitters I just change the plate if I don't need them. Knowing how great they are, I can actually say that you made a great video explaning the uses of those splitters.
Riving knives and splitters work great for shorter stock, but when cutting longer stock I have found that they help with the blade binding, but not so much with the wood itself as far as keeping the work piece from binding to the off cut farther down the cut, there fore pressing the piece against the fence and causing the piece to want to walk back towards the blade. I solve this problem by simply shutting down the machine and placing a wedge at the end of the board. once the pressure is relieved the wedge falls to the floor.
Robert Lee Good info Robert. Thanks! I don't cut much long stock. I have had to stop the saw before when ripping 8-foot 2x4s though because it bogged down the motor. It's wild how boards can have that kind of tension in them.
Just picked up one of these saws from Craigslist for free just a couple days ago. Thanks for the video adn showing how it's used, instant subscription. Also, theheads up on Peachtree is great, it's not far from where I live at all, I fear the impact on my wallet. Going to see about some new handles immediately as the plastic ones, whil ein good original shape, were missing the screws and I just feel like since everything else is hefty on the saw, the handle should match. Thanks again!
i might have to invest in some of these i've got a really old delta 1160 from like the forties and i need to get a blank insert for zero clearance. last weekend i had a board pinch so prolly a good idea on the splitters
C.J. phillipson It's rare, but there are times where I've had to stop the saw because of a 2x4 pinching it and bogging down the saw. One thing I forgot to mention is that they prevent me from dragging the wood into the back of the blade when I'm pulling it away with the gripper. The splitters make sure I'm far past it.
Moy perez woodshop Yeah, I've had some 2x4s bind the blade before to the point where I had to stop and turn off the saw. I think these will help with that.
Have the same issue with the back side not having enough room when the blade is fully raised as the instructions specify. Was looking to see if anyone else did the same with blade Height. Thanks!
Great timing! I recently watched Mike Fulton make a zero clearance insert and wondered what it was for. Also I had experienced trying to use the table saw and my piece of wood had nothing to slide on because the hole was too wide! Thanks for the info and product reviews, gonna need these for sure!
Cy's Corner Hi Cy! Awesome! Yeah, Mike and I were talking about these a while back when I first installed them. I told him then I was going to do this video, but stuff happens and it took me two months to get to it. At least I got familiar with them in the mean time. The zero clearance is great for thin cuts.
I don't have one and never used one, but, I would have thought the CNC machines would be great for making table saw insert plates. Either way I'd like to know. Well done my friend.
They should magnetize them, like the 11th finger push sticks, so you can stick them to the underside of the saw. Awesome product review. I have a Ryobi table saw and want a zero clearance fence but it's plate is so thin, not sure if it'll work. I'm gonna have to check that out.
Hello. One thing to be aware of. If you use your smaller blade for a circular saw to get the incision started, make sure it is same kerf thickness. My skillsaw blade is thinner than my tablesaw blade and I can’t get it to fit.
Steve, Hey Hey Hey, Been a loooong time! I was thinking about MAYBE using those splitters and remembered you did a video on them. When I went down to type a comment, guess who’s comment was right below the typing block….. some weird guy called MRrwmac. Must be my cloned twin…haha. Anyway, had to say hi. Hope ALL of your wonderful family, oh and you also, are all healthy and happy!!
Hey Mac! Yep all is well her, just getting older. lol Thinking about making some more videos, but it's a little hot right now. Maybe when it's cooler temps. Hope y'all are doing well too!
+Clayton Lemieux I still have it. My dad bought the saw originally and he kept everything. I don't use it because I cut a lot of grooves and small strips that I can't cut with it installed.
Sir I just purchased that same table saw I don’t have any info on it and I want to set it up properly. I can not find anything on that specific model saw. I was wondering if you know what the two adjustment screws on the top of the table do?
The one on the left sets the 90 degree stop. The one on the right sets the 45 degree stop. For example, if the blade is stopping at 88 deg instead of 90, then loosen the left screw and position the blade at 90, then tighten the screw and recheck. Here's a manual that may help. You should be able to find the manual for your model number online. www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/67xgfn3t7y-000247/craftsman-315228590-table-saw-parts?sid=sem:ggl:DSA+-+Category+-+All+Devices+-+tROAS:76102889225::c&keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAjwkMeUBhBuEiwA4hpqEIlccM_xTIhcFzl4DDsbDAJ7eBdPD5ROGFcltPe15eSJ8fPHVVqAyRoCZ1kQAvD_BwE
Steve, I got the micro jig setup for my thin kerf problen id it seems before the wood begins to touch the splitter and not allow wood to go throughthe splitter. Any ideas? I followed all the directions. Thanks Steve
Check the markings on the sides of the splitters against the instructions. Some sides have a thicker layer of plastic that help push the wood toward or away from the fence. Maybe try the thinnest splitter.
You put a straight edge of a board against the side of the blade and make a pencil mark on the yellow circle where the board crosses it, then do the other side of the blade. It helps to see where the blade will cut so you can line up the mark on your workpiece. I never use it.
Steve, Thanks for the great video. I read back through some of the comments but couldn't find where you found the ZCI for your craftsman. I also have an old Craftsman and would like to get a few (Along with the MJ cSplitters) Thanks!
+Nichoals Field Hey, thanks! The link is in the video description - www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm You will need to measure your current insert to make sure you get the right size because there are a few different sizes for these old Craftsman saws. Also check www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/
Hey, I have an old Craftsman Kromedge dado set that I've used one time. www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/craftsman-kromedge-3248-dado-blade-493803660 This saw was my father's and it has two original red insert plates and one has a wide opening for dado blades like this one - www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/112565355204_/Sears-CRAFTSMAN-DADO-MOLDING-HEAD-INSERT-PLATE-P-N.jpg
What saw do you have? I’ve got a 113.298151 that I’m doing a light refurbishing on. I’ve already ordered machined pulleys, link belt, an new switch, adding the bolts that were missing 🤣. I’m looking for those plates, but it seems pretty confusing to me. Going to buy some splitters though using your affiliate links. Let me know and thanks again.
Hey - It's awesome you are refurbishing yours. My saw is 113.298842 and it was my father's, so it's in pretty good shape. I got insert #953 and it fit well, but measure yours before ordering just in case. Thanks for supporting me by using the affiliate links. Also, thank you for your service! My father was in the Marines at Perris Island for 2 years in the 50's. I have his sharp shooter badge, yearbook, Korea badge, and uniform pins. www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html
Thanks for the awesome video Steve! Are you concerned about not being able to use the splitters when you need to tilt your blade to make a cut? I have an old Craftsman model 113.27520 that doesn't have a splitter, so I will probably pick a set of MicroJig splitters up.
jpdrew3 Thanks! That is one advantage that a riving knife that tilts with the blade has over these splitters. I don't tilt my blade that often though, so I can do without them for a few cuts. I'm finding that there are so many of us out there with these saws.
Hey Steve my old craftsman saw has a thin metal plate. Yours look like the same. Where would someone get a new plate (plastic) so I could fix this? Thank you, Dave Gale
Hi Dave! I got mine at Peachtree Woodworking a few miles from me. Check www.ptreeusa.com and they have a whole lot of different sizes. Just measure the length, width, and depth of the recess in the table to find the one you need.
I have been trying to figure out which Zero Clearance insert from Peachtree Woodworking Supply that you bought. I have your exact Table Saw. Any help would be appreciated. I enjoy your videos!
Steve....great video. Non-related question, I own the same table saw. Can you tell me what the Yellow spot in front of the blade is for? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
+KingsXish The yellow disc is for pencil marks that line up with the blade. I think you are supposed to put a ruler against the side of the blade and draw a pencil mark on the yellow part, so you know where the blade will cut your piece. I've never used it though.
Hey Steve, first of all thanks for the info on where to buy a plate for my old craftsman saw. Question.. I already cut a slot using my 10" blade but want to now use a 7-1/4" inch blade. Should my splitters be ok or should I get another plate, and also I cannot tell how to put the pins.It's marked ++ and 0 I just want the cut material to go like a regular splitter. Any thoughts? Again thanks..Dave
Hi Dave - There is an issue you might run into with the longer distance between the 7.25 blade and the splitter. If the kerf starts closing up before the splitter, the board could stop when it hits the splitter so you can't push it through. If that happens you should hold it in place and turn the saw off. Might be best to get a dedicated plate for the smaller blade so you can put the splitter closer. The splitter manual has info about the pins. 0 means the splitter is not pushing the wood out on that side. The + side spreads the wood out on that side, and ++ and +++ pushes the wood out even further. Typically the + marks should be facing the fence so the splitter helps push the wood against the fence, but it can increase the resistance a bit which you can feel as you cut through the board. Hope that helps! Steve...
Your Craftsman looks like mine! So far, for small pieces I've been laying a 1/4" plywood, C-Clamped down, create my narrow strips. I made a wooden insert once, but it broke. That's a disaster waiting to happen, even when you're using push blocks.
Ron Briz I was going to make one, but it would be about 3/16" thin and that worried me a little, plus I thought it might not stay flat. This plastic one is nice and flat.
use MDF for the Craftsman saw insert - I used 1/2" then routed the edge to fit and also used a drill with a partial hole to make the insert fit tightly
No, but they are a good alternative for keeping the kerf from closing on regular straight cuts. A riving knife has the added ability to raise, lower, and tilt with the blade. These splitters are a fixed height, so you have to take them out to cut a groove that is more shallow than the height of the splitters. They are also fixed at 90 degrees, so you have to take them out if you tilt the blade. Also, the riving knife is usually closer to the blade with very little gap, but the splitters can have a larger gap so it's more possible for a cutoff to touch the back of the blade and kick back. If a riving knife is not available for your saw, then the splitters are a good alternative for straight through cuts.
Good, informative video! I just wish I could find a zero clearance insert for my Ridgid 4513. The stock insert is very thin. Ridgid offers a dado insert, but does not offer a zero clearance insert for the R4513 portable saw. I haven't seen an aftermarket one available either, but I haven't looked for a month or so lately. Maybe I'll look again. Thanks for the video!
KSFWG If you have a planer and a jig saw/scroll saw/bandsaw and a router try this: Use a set of calipers to get the thickness of the the current insert. Or at least the places the insert will wind up touching when inserted. Then plane a board down to that thickness. Trace the shape of the current insert onto the board. Double stick tape the insert onto the new rough shape. And finally, using a flush trim bit on the router, make sure the bearing runs along the exiting insert, clean up the edge. And there you have a zero clearance insert. Shim it out with tape if it is loose. Then cut out a couple more with the shimmed version.
Make Crazydays Thanks for the reply! I've seen several TH-cam videos using the methods you have shared here. I was just hoping to avoid taking the time to make it myself. Thanks again!
KSFWG I was going to make one but this one is 3/16" thin. Here's the link to the different ones that have and there are some Ridgid ones. www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm
Steve Carmichael Thanks Steve but there isn't an aftermarket one available for the R4513. It is rectangular and less than 1/8" thick. I appreciate you trying to help.
Thanks for the info Steve. Do you have a link for that place where you bought the insert? I have a Craftsman saw, but it has a rectangular insert with all kinds of weird tabs, so sofar my attempts to make one have been unsuccessful.
Robert Echten Hi Robert - Here is the link to Peachtree Woodworking Supply - www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm Also check www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/
I laugh when people talk about their old tablesaws. I have an older Craftsman tablesaw that I have yet to see on TH-cam. It has a great quality castiron table, but there's no model number anyplace on it. The plate is thinner than the plates that fit your saw. I don't know if or where I could get a zero clearance plate for my saw, but I will check the links you posted here.
I have an old Sears Craftsman table saw. I can not find the model number. Can anyone help me by telling me where to look? The plate is 14 3/8 long by 3 3/4 wide and a little over 5/64 thick. Thank you!
Hey, mine has a metal badge on the left side, if you are standing in position where you use the saw. I think the www.ptreeusa.com website has measurements for different ones on the site.
Thank you Steve. I went and took another look. It was not where you pointed out. But I did find it behind the motor mount and under sawdust. Thank you.@@SteveCarmichael
Steve, for me finding your video at this time was just right. First, I believe we have the same saw and 2nd I need to get a zero clearance insert for it. I thought you said it came from Peachtree Supply. I've been on the phone with them this morning but w/o luck. Can you tell me which insert they sent you? Also, did the MicroJig splitters come from them also? Thanks for your help as my project is in the kitchen and it's almost Thanksgiving!
Make sure you measure your table saw insert exactly. Peachtree charges shipping (and a lot!) and if you get it wrong you have to pay for shipping back too. And there are dozens and dozens of choices for inserts. So, measure twice, buy once
Hey Steve, i just bought the Craftsman 10 Inch Table Saw Model 113.27520 which sounds like the same type you have. What other improvements have you made?
it cuts ok I suppose. I bought a diabo blade. that helped. cross cuts are great as it can be probably lol. but the rip cuts are less than perfect. seems to bow in the middle of the wood that it cuts. its square on each end but in the middle it bows into the wood.
Hmm, it sounds like either the fence is not parallel to the blade, or while you are pushing the wood through the backend of the fence could be flexing away from the blade.
My old 1961 Craftsman never had the riving knife or splitter or blade guard and I have used it for more than 50 years. I feel very corfortable without them.
Hi Bill, I feel comfortable without them too. I do run across wood sometimes that closes up the kerf behind the blade and I will put in the splitters for those rips.
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One of the best "how-to" videos on TH-cam today. Answered most of my questions regarding an old Sears saw
Thanks! I still use this saw on just about every project.
thanks for the great review! i have the same tablesaw & just ordered these after watching your video. btw i'm a drummer and drum builder!
Steve, first time stopping in and seeing your video. You have a great, up beat and happy demeanor and I feel like im just asking a buddy for some help. Great video and thanks!
Thank you Justin!
Hello Steve, I have a Sears table saw model 113.29991. I have restored it, but the blade guard that came with it, was actually not for my saw. I have been looking for weeks trying to find one for my saw. I am intrigued by these. I am going to give it a try, as it is not very smart using the saw without something for the blade. Thank you very much.
Great video Steve! I have the exact table saw, gifted from my grandfather. I've been dipping into the world of woodworking, slowly and respectfully lol. This upgrade will definitely be happening very soon. Thanks for the great material!
U7
That was an informative and honest review of both ZCI's and splitters! As the video was progressing I was thinking about my forgetting to take them out for certain cuts and also probably bending them. Then you brought those issues up and I smiled knowing how you're always honest with us! Thanks my friend, I may have to just break down and save up to buy some!
MRrwmac Thanks Mac! I actually kept some notes since I installed them so I wouldn't forget to mention anything. Now if I can just get myself to put them back on if I have to switch inserts for a cut.
Just the video I needed! I bought a 1950s era Craftsman saw and it doesn't have a riving knife. I know now how I can add this. Thanks Steve!
+Sean C Great Sean! I still use mine and they are still working out well for me. Just pay attention to the area behind the blade. There's not much space on mine so I almost went with just one splitter. With two in there, I can only raise the blade to cut just over 1.5" which covers most of what I do. If I go higher it will cut into the splitters.
+Steve Carmichael Good advise! Now I need to take the top off to figure out why the bevel crank won't turn...
The project BEFORE the project! Ha ha!
Ha! Yes, I need to do the same actually. Mine never stops in the right place for 0 and 45. I think there's sawdust gunk in the way.
Hey Steve, i have an old craftsman saw too and have been thinking about the lack of splitters on it. Great timing for this video. Thanks
ShopDawgWoodworking Yeah, there are a lot of us with these older saws that don't have spitters or riving knives. I like having them on there now that I've tried them out.
Great instruction for these, Steve. I also have a 113 saw (purchased in 94) and still love it. I got many years out of the original fence but finally had to change it out with a T-2 fence.
Steve Collins I use the original fence and it works ok for what I do, but I don't trust the ruler. It would be nice to not have to measure from the fence to the blade with a tape measure. Does having the T-2 help with that? I haven't looked into better fences.
Steve Carmichael Yes the T-2 is quite accurate for that purpose.
Steve Carmichael I have the 113.29991 and my ruler is reliable. I just adjust the arrow after making test cuts.
My first "real" table saw was one just like your Craftsman. Picked it up for $75 used on CraigsList. It was a great saw! I never got to purchase one of these inserts for it, but it looks great. I made one from some thin plywood and it was "okay". Yours looks great, and well worth the cost to get one. Great review on the splitters as well. Thanks!
The Dropcord Workshop Thank you! Yeah, I was surprised to find the insert for only about $15. They had it in the store too. I guess because it's a very common saw. I still might try to make one sometime, but the challenge will be to keep it flat.
Great practical points to consider. It’s those little things like remembering to put the splitters back on after swapping inserts. Thanks for putting together
I just got a vintager Craftsman table saw. I'm working out replacing the rip fence with one that will allow an outfeed table.
I've got my wife's dad's old belt drive Craftsman. Even has the original belt! Had to put a new cord on it but a little cleaning and some oil and it just humms. Those new gadgets look swell! No more than I use the saw I think I'll wait on them Nice Video Steve. Keep on making sawdust!
Lewie McNeely Thanks Lewie! You might want to look into getting a red link belt for it. I was amazed at the reduction of noise and vibration when I replaced the old belt on mine with one of those link belts. My saw sat unused in my dad's shop for about 10 years, so the belt was stuck in one shape which caused a lot of vibration.
Hey Buddy! That's a fine idea. Those link belts sure run smooth. I store mine with the pressure off the belt but If I need another , a link will be the one that goes on it. Thanks for the tips and looking forward to your next project. Keep Kool!
Thanks for the video, Steve! I just ordered an insert plate for my old Craftsman saw.
Awesome! Good to hear. Sometimes I have to put my old plate on for angle cuts. When I forget to put the splitter back on, it never fails the next rip cut close up behind the blade.
Good information Steve. I have the identical table saw as you. It has served me well, I just don’t like the fence setup. I still have the original safety guard with the riving knife and anti-kickback spurs. I don’t use it mainly because it was so clunky and more of a hindrance when doing setups and you can’t see what’s going on with it in place. I do however like having a splitter setup like you demonstrated. Thanks again.
Dave I also have an older Craftsman TS and almost got rid of it only because of the terrible fence until I discovered and installed the "Delta T2 Fence System". It really brought new life into my TS and I have been enjoying the smooth and accurate operation for several years.
Hey Steve,
I have been looking at these for a while. It's nice to hear your take on them.
I have been making my own inserts for a while now but I might just have to give this a try.
Thanks for the video and your feedback!
Thanks Steve for the insert and splitter review. I would not have thought of the blade height limitations that the splitter causes prior to purchase!
gsxrdemo Thanks! Yeah, it depends on each saw and how big the recess is behind the blade. I have to remember not to raise my blade too high or it will cut into the splitter. I rarely cut anything thicker than 1.5" anyway so it's not really an issue.
I have the same splitters and love them.
w hat about on bevels? wouldnt one that was attached to the motor mount be better?
Steve > I have two of these old work horses and a number of the ptree inserts and one set up for each of my two forrest blades ( one thin, one 1/8 ). I have to agree with Alain on the riving knife. I fabricated one for this before I found the Micro-Jig splitters and really prefer the splitters. Just as you were saying about the 'groves' and the like, it is a lot easier to just pop them out than remove the knife. It is a shame that the newer saws aren't built as solidly as these beasts.
+clutions I'm still liking this insert/splitter setup. I keep thinking the little pin that secures the back of the splitter will fall out, but it never does. That's the only thing that I would improve. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Excellent trick ! Tanks for your complete demonstration Steve.
Steve, Thanks for making the video. This equipment will make a nice upgrade to my old Craftsman table saw.
Glad you liked it!
Great review. Thank you for the time and energy. Liked and subscribed. Most likely will order. Don't have a splitter on mine.
thanks for the video. I have the same model saw and have been trying to figure out a way to make it safer. I bought the insert and splitters - anxious to give them a go
Steve, I know this is like 5 years old but I'm sure (if you still have that beast as I do) you've gotten more Zero C inserts. A simple solution to the first cut is to take it out and flip it end over end and place a piece of scrap on top of it and bring your regular blade up until it extends about 1/4 inch. Then lower the blade and reinstall it properly. This is especially useful if you are using a thin kerf blade and don't have a 7 1/4" thin kerf blade. Just my take!
Hey, thanks! That's a great solution. I still use the same insert.
Looks like the nearly perfect solution for the older saw!
Zero clearance inserts on my table saw are a must have especially for ripping narrow pieces that may fall into the blade (very dangerous!). I have one for angled cuts also.
Thanks for the review.
Scott
eCabinets tips and tricks I may get another one to use for angle cuts. Did you raise the blade at different angles so it can cut from 0 to 45, or just for 45 deg?
Steve Carmichael
The inserts that I use are home made so I just made several for
example I have one for 45 deg. And one for 22.5 deg. then I have one that I use
for odd angles. When that one starts to get too cut up for my comfort I trash
it and slap a new one in. I have not tried the 0 to 45. It would seem to me
that if you did it that way the result would be basically the same as the stock
insert.
Thanks for the review, my saw has a riving knife but I have been looking for something quicker and less of a hassle to remove. Still a bit on the fence on this solution, worried I'd lose them since they are so small.
Dave's DIY Someone else mentioned keeping them attached to the side of the saw with a magnet. I thought that was a great idea. I keep them in the insert plate so they are always together.
Cool push block!
Can you use just the back splitter so the blade can be raised for thicker lumber?
Hey buddy. I just picked up the exact same table saw as you and will do what you did to it! Thanks for the info!
Hi Paton - Cool! It's been a good saw for what I do. The splitters are great especially for ripping 2x4s that almost always bind after the blade. Just had some of those yesterday and it worked great. Also, get one of the chain link belts for it to make it run more smooth and quiet...makes a big difference.
Referencing in Dec 2019 and this was super helpful...thanks!
Hi Paul, glad it helped in some way! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good info Steve, I'm lucky my saw has all the safety stuff all I needed was a zero clearance insert.. I made a bunch and bought two,one for the regular blade and one for the dado blades. They are a good safety feature.
Backyard Woodworking Thanks Roland! I started to make my own, but the one for this saw is really thin so that made me just buy a plastic one that would stay flat.
Thank you Steve. I need to something like this on my old Craftsman!
Thanks for the review. I have an older Jet table saw without a riving knife, and frankly it makes me nervous when ripping. I'll give these a try (and thankfully I live right near Peachtree Woodworking so I can pick them up there).
Even with brand new saw they're great. I got used to the those splitters on my old saw, when I bought a new one I didn't even bother to install my riving knife, I just bought another inset plate and install a set of splitters.
BTW I bought 2 insert plates and I never remove my splitters I just change the plate if I don't need them.
Knowing how great they are, I can actually say that you made a great video explaning the uses of those splitters.
***** Thank you Alain! I watched your video today and noticed you had them too. It's interesting that you prefer them over a riving knife.
Steve Carmichael Yes I do. They're great, I almost only use thin kerf blade and it's so easy to align them to a thin kerf.
Riving knives and splitters work great for shorter stock, but when cutting longer stock I have found that they help with the blade binding, but not so much with the wood itself as far as keeping the work piece from binding to the off cut farther down the cut, there fore pressing the piece against the fence and causing the piece to want to walk back towards the blade. I solve this problem by simply shutting down the machine and placing a wedge at the end of the board. once the pressure is relieved the wedge falls to the floor.
Robert Lee Good info Robert. Thanks! I don't cut much long stock. I have had to stop the saw before when ripping 8-foot 2x4s though because it bogged down the motor. It's wild how boards can have that kind of tension in them.
Just picked up one of these saws from Craigslist for free just a couple days ago. Thanks for the video adn showing how it's used, instant subscription. Also, theheads up on Peachtree is great, it's not far from where I live at all, I fear the impact on my wallet. Going to see about some new handles immediately as the plastic ones, whil ein good original shape, were missing the screws and I just feel like since everything else is hefty on the saw, the handle should match. Thanks again!
i might have to invest in some of these i've got a really old delta 1160 from like the forties and i need to get a blank insert for zero clearance. last weekend i had a board pinch so prolly a good idea on the splitters
C.J. phillipson It's rare, but there are times where I've had to stop the saw because of a 2x4 pinching it and bogging down the saw. One thing I forgot to mention is that they prevent me from dragging the wood into the back of the blade when I'm pulling it away with the gripper. The splitters make sure I'm far past it.
Thanks for the review. As i get older I realize chance can catch up, so minimizing risks are important.
I still use this setup most of the time. Lasted quite a while for plastic stuff. Pretty tough.
It looks like you and I have the same table saw. Have you thought of doing a video that shows your solution for feather boards?
Nice review for the splitters, looks like the do a great job, anything that would help from kick back is a great thing
***** Thanks Sterling!
Thanks Steve! I'll have to buy some of those splitters!
Thank you Steve
Hey Steve ..good info on the splitters and plate I've actually been thinking of making a set for my saw just haven't got around to it yet
Thanks for the info and review steve. I bet those splitters are a good option for some folks
Moy perez woodshop Yeah, I've had some 2x4s bind the blade before to the point where I had to stop and turn off the saw. I think these will help with that.
glad i seen this ! thanks for the advice, my saw is a old school 10' Ohio Steel
This was incredibly helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for making this video. It was very informative.
Glad it could help Chris!
Very helpful. I have that exact table saw.
I think I'll have to get some, thanks for sharing
benji pestell Thanks for watching Benji!
Thanks for the info, Steve. I have been wanting to try the splitters and you clarified some doubts I had.
Ricky Walden Cool, glad it helped a little. I always like watching demos before I buy stuff.
Have the same issue with the back side not having enough room when the blade is fully raised as the instructions specify. Was looking to see if anyone else did the same with blade Height. Thanks!
Extremely helpful video.
Great timing! I recently watched Mike Fulton make a zero clearance insert and wondered what it was for. Also I had experienced trying to use the table saw and my piece of wood had nothing to slide on because the hole was too wide! Thanks for the info and product reviews, gonna need these for sure!
Cy's Corner Hi Cy! Awesome! Yeah, Mike and I were talking about these a while back when I first installed them. I told him then I was going to do this video, but stuff happens and it took me two months to get to it. At least I got familiar with them in the mean time. The zero clearance is great for thin cuts.
Stay tuned there may be a way to win a set. Hint Hint, Wink Wink
I don't have one and never used one, but, I would have thought the CNC machines would be great for making table saw insert plates. Either way I'd like to know. Well done my friend.
David Bishop Hmm, I will have to try that on the CNC. This one is too thin for wood so I'd have to cut plastic.
They should magnetize them, like the 11th finger push sticks, so you can stick them to the underside of the saw. Awesome product review. I have a Ryobi table saw and want a zero clearance fence but it's plate is so thin, not sure if it'll work. I'm gonna have to check that out.
Chris Williams That's a great idea! I suppose I could put a magnet on the side of the saw, or one of those harbor freight magnetic parts dishes.
Hello. One thing to be aware of. If you use your smaller blade for a circular saw to get the incision started, make sure it is same kerf thickness. My skillsaw blade is thinner than my tablesaw blade and I can’t get it to fit.
Steve, Hey Hey Hey, Been a loooong time! I was thinking about MAYBE using those splitters and remembered you did a video on them. When I went down to type a comment, guess who’s comment was right below the typing block….. some weird guy called MRrwmac. Must be my cloned twin…haha. Anyway, had to say hi. Hope ALL of your wonderful family, oh and you also, are all healthy and happy!!
Hey Mac! Yep all is well her, just getting older. lol Thinking about making some more videos, but it's a little hot right now. Maybe when it's cooler temps. Hope y'all are doing well too!
Im assuming you can not raise you blade fully with that plate in?
Correct.
I have the blade Gard wit anti kick back dogs on the same Sears table saw that I purchase new over 30 years ago, why did you not keep yours
+Clayton Lemieux I still have it. My dad bought the saw originally and he kept everything. I don't use it because I cut a lot of grooves and small strips that I can't cut with it installed.
This is good information. Thanks Carmichael.
Sir I just purchased that same table saw I don’t have any info on it and I want to set it up properly. I can not find anything on that specific model saw. I was wondering if you know what the two adjustment screws on the top of the table do?
The one on the left sets the 90 degree stop. The one on the right sets the 45 degree stop. For example, if the blade is stopping at 88 deg instead of 90, then loosen the left screw and position the blade at 90, then tighten the screw and recheck. Here's a manual that may help. You should be able to find the manual for your model number online. www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/67xgfn3t7y-000247/craftsman-315228590-table-saw-parts?sid=sem:ggl:DSA+-+Category+-+All+Devices+-+tROAS:76102889225::c&keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAjwkMeUBhBuEiwA4hpqEIlccM_xTIhcFzl4DDsbDAJ7eBdPD5ROGFcltPe15eSJ8fPHVVqAyRoCZ1kQAvD_BwE
Steve, I got the micro jig setup for my thin kerf problen id it seems before the wood begins to touch the splitter and not allow wood to go throughthe splitter. Any ideas? I followed all the directions. Thanks Steve
Check the markings on the sides of the splitters against the instructions. Some sides have a thicker layer of plastic that help push the wood toward or away from the fence. Maybe try the thinnest splitter.
@@SteveCarmichael thank you, I will check I use a 7-1/4" blade
Thanks for the information and review Steve!
Excellent review Steve.
What's the yellow plug exact cut plug used for on an old table saw Craftsman
You put a straight edge of a board against the side of the blade and make a pencil mark on the yellow circle where the board crosses it, then do the other side of the blade. It helps to see where the blade will cut so you can line up the mark on your workpiece. I never use it.
Steve, Thanks for the great video. I read back through some of the comments but couldn't find where you found the ZCI for your craftsman. I also have an old Craftsman and would like to get a few (Along with the MJ cSplitters)
Thanks!
+Nichoals Field Hey, thanks! The link is in the video description - www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm You will need to measure your current insert to make sure you get the right size because there are a few different sizes for these old Craftsman saws. Also check www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/
hey Steve, do you know which 'dado' options can be used on this saw? sorry, I'm still new to woodworking. thanks
Hey, I have an old Craftsman Kromedge dado set that I've used one time. www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/craftsman-kromedge-3248-dado-blade-493803660
This saw was my father's and it has two original red insert plates and one has a wide opening for dado blades like this one - www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/112565355204_/Sears-CRAFTSMAN-DADO-MOLDING-HEAD-INSERT-PLATE-P-N.jpg
What saw do you have? I’ve got a 113.298151 that I’m doing a light refurbishing on. I’ve already ordered machined pulleys, link belt, an new switch, adding the bolts that were missing 🤣. I’m looking for those plates, but it seems pretty confusing to me. Going to buy some splitters though using your affiliate links. Let me know and thanks again.
Hey - It's awesome you are refurbishing yours. My saw is 113.298842 and it was my father's, so it's in pretty good shape. I got insert #953 and it fit well, but measure yours before ordering just in case. Thanks for supporting me by using the affiliate links. Also, thank you for your service! My father was in the Marines at Perris Island for 2 years in the 50's. I have his sharp shooter badge, yearbook, Korea badge, and uniform pins. www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html
I really should do this as I have a very similar Craftsman tablesaw.
Thanks Steve! I'll have to look into that for my old Delta.
Thanks for the awesome video Steve! Are you concerned about not being able to use the splitters when you need to tilt your blade to make a cut? I have an old Craftsman model 113.27520 that doesn't have a splitter, so I will probably pick a set of MicroJig splitters up.
jpdrew3 Thanks! That is one advantage that a riving knife that tilts with the blade has over these splitters. I don't tilt my blade that often though, so I can do without them for a few cuts. I'm finding that there are so many of us out there with these saws.
Hey Steve my old craftsman saw has a thin metal plate. Yours look like the same. Where would someone get a new plate (plastic) so I could fix this? Thank you, Dave Gale
Hi Dave! I got mine at Peachtree Woodworking a few miles from me. Check www.ptreeusa.com and they have a whole lot of different sizes. Just measure the length, width, and depth of the recess in the table to find the one you need.
thanks Steve I will contact them. BTW are you going to be making any more videos? Thanks Dave Gale
Interested in how you made the Alpha Phi Alpha Paddle.
I cut those out on the scroll saw.
I have the Craftsman limited edition table saw 2.7 and can't find an insert plate for it, can you tell me what size is yours?
Hi Gail - My saw is 113.298842 and the insert I used is Item #953 (14" x 3-3/4" x 3/16") on this page:
www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html
I have been trying to figure out which Zero Clearance insert from Peachtree Woodworking Supply that you bought. I have your exact Table Saw. Any help would be appreciated. I enjoy your videos!
Hey - I got #953 but measure yours before ordering. www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html
Steve....great video. Non-related question, I own the same table saw. Can you tell me what the Yellow spot in front of the blade is for? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
+KingsXish The yellow disc is for pencil marks that line up with the blade. I think you are supposed to put a ruler against the side of the blade and draw a pencil mark on the yellow part, so you know where the blade will cut your piece. I've never used it though.
Hey Steve, first of all thanks for the info on where to buy a plate for my old craftsman saw. Question.. I already cut a slot using my 10" blade but want to now use a 7-1/4" inch blade. Should my splitters be ok or should I get another plate, and also I cannot tell how to put the pins.It's marked ++ and 0 I just want the cut material to go like a regular splitter. Any thoughts? Again thanks..Dave
Hi Dave - There is an issue you might run into with the longer distance between the 7.25 blade and the splitter. If the kerf starts closing up before the splitter, the board could stop when it hits the splitter so you can't push it through. If that happens you should hold it in place and turn the saw off. Might be best to get a dedicated plate for the smaller blade so you can put the splitter closer. The splitter manual has info about the pins. 0 means the splitter is not pushing the wood out on that side. The + side spreads the wood out on that side, and ++ and +++ pushes the wood out even further. Typically the + marks should be facing the fence so the splitter helps push the wood against the fence, but it can increase the resistance a bit which you can feel as you cut through the board. Hope that helps! Steve...
Your Craftsman looks like mine! So far, for small pieces I've been laying a 1/4" plywood, C-Clamped down, create my narrow strips. I made a wooden insert once, but it broke. That's a disaster waiting to happen, even when you're using push blocks.
Ron Briz I saved that peachtree website. Will have to measure my existing insert. It's either old or vintage!
Ron Briz I was going to make one, but it would be about 3/16" thin and that worried me a little, plus I thought it might not stay flat. This plastic one is nice and flat.
use MDF for the Craftsman saw insert - I used 1/2" then routed the edge to fit and also used a drill with a partial hole to make the insert fit tightly
Miss your weekly vids Steve
mathew capel Hi Mathew! I have one coming out tomorrow. I seem to be on a every 10-12 days schedule. lol
Are these as good as a riving knife?
No, but they are a good alternative for keeping the kerf from closing on regular straight cuts. A riving knife has the added ability to raise, lower, and tilt with the blade. These splitters are a fixed height, so you have to take them out to cut a groove that is more shallow than the height of the splitters. They are also fixed at 90 degrees, so you have to take them out if you tilt the blade. Also, the riving knife is usually closer to the blade with very little gap, but the splitters can have a larger gap so it's more possible for a cutoff to touch the back of the blade and kick back. If a riving knife is not available for your saw, then the splitters are a good alternative for straight through cuts.
@@SteveCarmichael thanks for the detailed answer bro. I subscribed
Well done, very informative. Many thanks!
Good, informative video! I just wish I could find a zero clearance insert for my Ridgid 4513. The stock insert is very thin. Ridgid offers a dado insert, but does not offer a zero clearance insert for the R4513 portable saw. I haven't seen an aftermarket one available either, but I haven't looked for a month or so lately. Maybe I'll look again. Thanks for the video!
KSFWG If you have a planer and a jig saw/scroll saw/bandsaw and a router try this:
Use a set of calipers to get the thickness of the the current insert. Or at least the places the insert will wind up touching when inserted. Then plane a board down to that thickness. Trace the shape of the current insert onto the board. Double stick tape the insert onto the new rough shape. And finally, using a flush trim bit on the router, make sure the bearing runs along the exiting insert, clean up the edge. And there you have a zero clearance insert. Shim it out with tape if it is loose. Then cut out a couple more with the shimmed version.
Make Crazydays Thanks for the reply! I've seen several TH-cam videos using the methods you have shared here. I was just hoping to avoid taking the time to make it myself. Thanks again!
The trick is to make enough that you never have to do it again. Good luck though if you do it. It has been worth it to clean up tear out.
KSFWG I was going to make one but this one is 3/16" thin. Here's the link to the different ones that have and there are some Ridgid ones. www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm
Steve Carmichael Thanks Steve but there isn't an aftermarket one available for the R4513. It is rectangular and less than 1/8" thick. I appreciate you trying to help.
Genius, thanks
This is really helpful for me
Keuri Disla Glad you can use the info! Thanks!
Thanks for the info Steve. Do you have a link for that place where you bought the insert? I have a Craftsman saw, but it has a rectangular insert with all kinds of weird tabs, so sofar my attempts to make one have been unsuccessful.
Robert Echten Hi Robert - Here is the link to Peachtree Woodworking Supply - www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm Also check www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/
Steve Carmichael Thanks Steve!
Thanks for the info Steve, very interesting, Cheers Harry
The Little Garden Shed Workshop Thanks Harry!
I laugh when people talk about their old tablesaws. I have an older Craftsman tablesaw that I have yet to see on TH-cam. It has a great quality castiron table, but there's no model number anyplace on it. The plate is thinner than the plates that fit your saw. I don't know if or where I could get a zero clearance plate for my saw, but I will check the links you posted here.
Where did you get that throat plate?
www.ptreeusa.com
I have an old Sears Craftsman table saw. I can not find the model number. Can anyone help me by telling me where to look? The plate is 14 3/8 long by 3 3/4 wide and a little over 5/64 thick. Thank you!
Hey, mine has a metal badge on the left side, if you are standing in position where you use the saw. I think the www.ptreeusa.com website has measurements for different ones on the site.
Thank you Steve. I went and took another look. It was not where you pointed out. But I did find it behind the motor mount and under sawdust. Thank you.@@SteveCarmichael
Steve, for me finding your video at this time was just right. First, I believe we have the same saw and 2nd I need to get a zero clearance insert for it. I thought you said it came from Peachtree Supply. I've been on the phone with them this morning but w/o luck. Can you tell me which insert they sent you? Also, did the MicroJig splitters come from them also? Thanks for your help as my project is in the kitchen and it's almost Thanksgiving!
Hmm interesting. Thanks for sharing Carmichael :-)
Maybe you could epoxy a washer on the underside of the insert plate to assist removal with a magnet.
Tony Banner That's a good idea. Thanks Tony!
Make sure you measure your table saw insert exactly. Peachtree charges shipping (and a lot!) and if you get it wrong you have to pay for shipping back too. And there are dozens and dozens of choices for inserts. So, measure twice, buy once
Do you have recommendations? I’m a total beginner. I am stuck using an old craftsman for a while and it has no protection
Hey Steve, i just bought the Craftsman 10 Inch Table Saw Model 113.27520 which sounds like the same type you have. What other improvements have you made?
Hey - I have a video on some things I did to it. The saw is still working great. th-cam.com/video/dWiUwj5IF_U/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sir! I'll check it out.
can you help me? I just bought a used skil table saw. not sure whats normal or not. and why its doing that
+Richard Cowtails Hi Richard - I've never used a skil table saw before. Why it's doing what?
it cuts ok I suppose. I bought a diabo blade. that helped. cross cuts are great as it can be probably lol. but the rip cuts are less than perfect. seems to bow in the middle of the wood that it cuts. its square on each end but in the middle it bows into the wood.
Hmm, it sounds like either the fence is not parallel to the blade, or while you are pushing the wood through the backend of the fence could be flexing away from the blade.
My old 1961 Craftsman never had the riving knife or splitter or blade guard and I have used it for more than 50 years.
I feel very corfortable without them.
Hi Bill, I feel comfortable without them too. I do run across wood sometimes that closes up the kerf behind the blade and I will put in the splitters for those rips.
Thanks for the info Steve
Peachtree has changed their website. The zero clearance inserts are now at www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html
Oh, cool, thanks for sharing the link.
where did you get a 0 clearance plate at? been looking for one
+jeff r I got this one at Peachtree Woodworking - www.ptreeusa.com Thanks for watching!
+Steve Carmichael I have the same saw. Do you have a product number doe the correct plate?