Table Saw Throat Plates with Splitter Hack
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- It's time again to make some zero clearance table saw throat plates. I planed a piece of oak to the thickness of the existing throat plates for my Powermatic 72 and 66. I shaped the pieces to fit snugly in each table saw. The Powermatic 72 has a rectangular throat plate and the Powermatic 66 has an oval shaped throat plate. I cut the slot for the blade by raising the blade up through the wood as it was being held down by the fence. I then cut the slot further to insert a small piece of wood as a fin. This fin is the same width as the slot and the blade, and acts as a riving knife. It helps to keep the wood from binding on the blade and up against the fence.
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Great idea for older saws that can't be retrofitted with a riving knife! I'm adding this to the list of projects, near the top! Thanks Frank.
The intro was really cool and I like the idea for the riving knife because most people don't like them because the are a hassle to get on and off.
frank howarth thanks a bunch for your videos and work its inspired me so much i am a 19 year old turner and photographer i have seen a lot of videos out there but yours are some of the best keep doing what your doing
Thanks!
Great timing Frank, I'm just setting up my table saw and as I have had a piece of wood kick back on me this is an awesome project. Thanks so much my friend!
Mark
Great video Frank, I need to get to work on my large sled and then on one of these.
Great idea. Going to try this on my old GENERAL table saw
Absolutely love your videos. I anxiously await each week for a new one to be published. You sir are an amazing talent.
Love the stop-motion!
Your videos are so enjoyable to watch.
just love your videos with those small visual effect, nice touch!
A very timely "light bulb" moment Frank, another very informative, and enjoyable video.
Take care
Mike
Looks like it works good I would use a light aluminum angel bracket screwed to the under side of the plate far enough away from the blade
That's a good idea.
You have a great shop - looks really well laid out. We just got done building our shop and are working on the layout now. We're new youtubers btw, just wanted to say hi :-)
Good stuff, and great video as always, it's ideal when a safety solution also improves your tool's performance.
I like your fin idea. I've had a vintage table saw for years without a splitter. (the factory ones from that era were garbage) Working with wild gain is a bit scary, and I really need to do this...
I have a 70s era Craftsman, and my first homemade zero-clearance insert I added a fin like this. Changed blades and the slot and fin didn't line up any more unfortunately. Made a new ZCI, but didn't bother with the hassle of a fin. Forgot about it helping keep the wood against the fence, will definitely make that a priority next shop time I get.
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Well Peter, it's been 4 years. Have you done it yet?
Ingenious Frank! I'll have to give this a try!!
Didn't you run into issues with stressed wood getting tight and stuck with these fins being the same thickness as the blade. Ideally they should be 0,2mm (0,008") thinner than the blade on both sides.
Yes I was getting that a little, I may have to sand the fins down.
Marius Hornberger This is a good point. While ripping a board has internal stresses, the two sides might come together after the blade and bind with the "fins".
Barry's Workshop Well, they better bind on the fins rather than on the blade.
frank howarth
Maybe even coat them with something after sanding a bit more to make them more slippery.
Mark Klukowski yes i was coming to say, i will be making mine a thou thinner and giving them a coat of wax
I did it even simpler--placed a brass screw into the wooden insert in line and behind the blade, then filed the profile to be about the same thickness as the blade. It has been in business for over a year now with no signs of wear. No kick backs, prevents wedging effect and wood burning. Also helps to push the board to the fence. Small size but works great even on thicker boards...
Great !
Hi ladies I would love to try your plans, but I am currently planning to tell you to fuck off thanks.
?@@TomHowbridge
@@markkoons7488 Seems to have been a reply to a comment that was deleted/removed in the 4 years between that comment, and yours.
G'day. Do you still use them if so anything you would change ?
Frank, how about epoxying some aluminum stock In place of the wood splitters? Assuming you have a method of getting aluminum that thin?
what an excellent idea, first time i have see this
I was wondering when you were gonna start using these... good job and boo to the people who gave this a thumbs down.
Thanks this saves me money........ However I have the holes cut into my table saw plate. I bought them used like that.
one draw back is not all blades are the same thickness, I use board buddies on my RAS you can buy them for the table saw too
or Jessem has rollers that pull the stock into the fence or you can take roller skate wheels and make your own.
I have used this cheap method to make my Delta Contractors saw a bit safer since a new saw was not in the budget. I made several inserts for different configurations but not for angled cuts. I have not damaged fins for the two years I have used them.
First time to your channel--love this tutorial! I was looking for good DIY examples...I'll be making this today! Thanks for a great step-by-steps. I'll be subscribing. =)
You will like use them more then not. There is feeling of safety that comes with them and I think it better cuts as well. The next thing you may want to make are kick boards to turn off the saw. To be able to turn off the saw and not move your hands is so helpful. Even when you don't have a time were you have to leave your hands on the wood, it is nice to just make your cut and hit the board with your knee or foot and not have to lean over find the button to turn it off. Great stuff as always.
Excellent sir
Great work. My only thought while watching this was concern for your poor throat. I hope you feel better now. Every time you said throat, I wanted to offer you a lozenge.
Really important video. I never knew what a riving knife was. I suppose like most American's, we tend to throw away guards or covers, and don't pay much attention to safety devices on commonly used shop tools. But I had a super bad kickback after cutting a small piece of hardwood on a 30 degree angle, with the blade angled towards the work piece (it was a horrible user error) and it sucked my entire hand into the blade, and through a divine miracle I didn't cut off any fingers or cut any tendons. But it took about 4 months to heal after getting stitches in 4 fingers. Watching these videos is really difficult because I have bad PTSD now, and haven't gone near my saw. I was always extremely careful, but I made the mistake of cutting when I was extremely sleep deprived after a 10 hour shift in construction, which led to not planning my cut. If I had known WHAT a riving knife was, I probably would have upgraded my saw a long time ago. But I honestly just assumed that they were a specialty item used in unusual circumstances, and nobody used them.
Just want say Happy Easter from your italian friend :-)
"The insert zero clearance" - requires any table saw, especially when cutting small parts. But for some reason many of these neglected :(
Thank you for what you have raised this issue and clearly demonstrated the process.
Frank, a question for you: why did you do the riving knife so long (multi-part)?
Mark Fisher, Ukraine.
I was wondering if the splitters need to be that tall?
maybe they could be 1/2 inch tall to accommodate most cots
I see your self assembling table saw video is on Break.com
Did you post it there or did someone upload it without your permission?
Some nice filmograpy in this one, frank.
Maybe a bad question but.. your shop is so sick! I just have the basic of basic setups in my basement and it's so hard to imagine ever having a big functional shop like yours. Can u give any insight or tips on how best to achieve that goal? I feel such a lack of drive at times because of such a lack of functionality in my "shop". Any tips would be so helpful.
Hey Frank this is just a general question, it has nothing to do with the video. Why does your sliding miter saw shakes when you make a cut? Or is that your style?
Thanks for a great idea. If you use a thin kerf blade sometimes, obviously you could make another zero clearance plate using thinner pieces of wood. It would seem to make sense using a very hard wood for those vertical pieces. Any thoughts about that?
Excellent, Frank! You mentioned the fragile nature of the two spreaders. Have you considered some phenolic or poly stock for those? Much more durable whilst not putting the blade at risk.
I wish I had your test wood! I'm not an expert but it looked like hickory, blood wood, and purple heart. I don't like forking out the cash for pine.
Thank you for showing this. I'll have to do the same!
you're the best
I am thinking this would work with some plastic inserts and the splitters could be plastic also.
I am quite fascinated by those pieces of wood moving by themselves in your intro. What software does that?
What if you used steel for the ricin knife and epoxy to glue it?
Frank, tried this at home with my zero clearance throat insert. It works really well. Thanks so much. I'm going to add one also to my zero clearance plate for angled cuts.
If you're using carbide blades, why couldn't you use aluminum for the fins? And screw or pin'm in, w/either brass or aluminum screws? Or wood pins?
Why does that radial arm saw operation look so scary? I always start with the saw motor closest to my chest, when I am using a sliding miter saw, and push the saw forward, instead of pulling it towards me. I wonder if I've been using the saw wrong this entire time?
Nice tip. Thanks.
Frank, your videos are absolutely amazing. Excellent job.
Nice Frank! A Very unique approach! Never would have thought to make wooden riving knives -=)
Hi Frank, a very well done intelligent video. It's great to see the old tools still in service. I also enjoyed the animation as well.
Would there be any benefit to not cutting all the way to the kerf? Leaving a little of the original wood in place instead of cutting all the way before inserting the fins?
Hi Frank thanks for the video, it looks like a great idea, Best wishes Harry.
shared on Google plus.
Nice video, as always! Did you use your homemade gantry to hang the camera on for those closing (overhead) shots?
Great project and video... love the little time-lapse touches! :o)
Excellent video. Nice production and very interesting to watch.
Perhaps you could find model aircraft plywood in the appropriate thickness for the fins. I've used it for various jigs & letterbox panels, and I think it would more durable:
midwestproducts.com/collections/plywood
I'm curious that a Powermatic table saw doesn't come with a riving knife?? My Rigid did, but it's most likely a newer saw. (3 years) I'm guilty of being old school and didn't like something in the way so I removed it. Watching a few table saw safety vids showed me how wrong I was so I'm going to put it back on as soon as I get around to it. I think removing it may have contributed to a couple painful kickbacks. I'm trying to figure out why you put 2 on yours, and why you stood the grain vertical. What would you think about making them out of metal and adding 2 screws to secure it.
I just came across your video on splitters for the table saw. Your idea is great. I have an old Ridgid TS3650 saw that does not have a splitter nor kickback pawls. I risk my life each time I use the saw and it ,frankly, scares the bejesus out of me. This is a great solution. However, I do have one question. Could some 1/8” thick aluminum be used to replace the hard wood used to act as the splitters? It seems aluminum may be more durable than wood and could be easily glued to the insert with a good epoxy. What are your thought on this?
I've watched heaps of your videos and seen the wooden riving knife, but had not seen this 'making of' video before, and had wondered what the story behind was? One of the table saws I use )a 12" SOMAC which I think is imported from Thailand) came with no riving knife, and when I looked into it, there was no provision a riving knife that lifted with the blade. So I made a steel riving knife by sandwiching two thicknesses of hand saw blade silver soldered at the edges. Something that had not occurred to me before is what you said about the knife holding the work piece against the fence. My home made riving knife extends about 25mm beyond the throat plate, so is going to do that job quite nicely. You never stop learning when it comes to stuff that goes on in a workshop.
You have some of the oldest Dewalt equipment I've ever seen still in use, your disc sander is amazingly large, and you manage to fit in some nice stop motion and graphics in to the videos too? Nicely done sir, subscribed
AT THE RISK OF SEEMING STUPID. WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOU MEAN BY CALLING THIS ACTION A "HACK"? I HAVE SEEN IT A FEW TIMES, BUT NEVER DEFINED.
I ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS VERY MUCH. THANK YOU
i loved the angle and cinematography of the ending frank!
Thanks for the ideas, I need to make a splitter for my vintage Ceaftsman 113 saw (it was my fathers so I have an emotional attachment), and thus should be a doable solution. I might be able to make the insert thicker to help hold the splitter in place.
Never use long grain when using solid wood. Your throat plate can slit and collaps and wedge your saw blade, don't ask me how I know. Had to replace the arbor on my Unisaw.
In Europe, the guide fences can be adjusted in lengte, so that when de wood exits the blade there aint a fence for the wood to snag on, preventing kickback . i dont see that on american table saws, as well the lack of geardblades .. i wonder why so many refuse to use that savety options??
Sorry but I enjoy your videos but this idea doesn’t look like a good idea, it would have been better to make those “fins” out of aluminium or something similar, the wooden fins will snap off way too easily.
Nice idea Frank thanks for the great video tip.
GREAT animations. Good job and good explanation. A+
Great idea Frank
Awesome special effects. Maybe we should make you some t-shirts and hats to sell online. I can help with that and an ecommerce website.
Great idea with just finishing the cut through and gluing in the knives. I really need to move that up on my list of things to make.
Great idea. Thanks for sharing! I like your stop motion filming too.
Zero clearance plates, plus a splitter does do a lot for safety. There are many ways to get this done, and your approach seems to do the trick.
Frank, please take no offense, but you sound terrible in this one. Are spring allergies getting to you?
Hi Frank, We have all gotten used to long fences which are intended for cutting sheet goods not lumber. Be safe! The riving knife is NOT intended to keep the board straight, or up against the fence. They are to prevent a stressed board from closing on the blade and kicking back. Nothing more! If the board is pushing again your fence it's telling you the fence is in the wrong place, ie. past the back edge of the blade. I made my first fin style riving knife in the early '80s and still love them. Fin should be just a hair thicker than the kerf of the blade to do its job. Btw, A safe rip fence does not extend past the back of the blade!
Cheers!
Frank. I've made the same before, but decided to make the riving knife part a piece of metal, because the wood riv-ers (?) tended to break. I used two small screws coming in from the side of the insert, through two holes in the metal riving piece and back into the other side of the insert to hold it in place. Works good. I hope this makes sense, if not I could send a picture. Thanks again for your videos.
Maybe try using some nylon/plastic etc, the same stuff your fence is made out of, for the fins, bet they would last a really long time
The work piece would slide nice on the plastic.
More than likely the fence has delren plastic. That's come pretty tough stuff, a little expensive though
like the ending wide shot
Neat video!
Very well done, Thank you!
Interesting, I hadn't thought of adding the splitters to the throat plate. I've been thinking I should do something about it since WYOMINGWOODTURNER's accident, when he described what happened I realized it wouldn't have happened if the splitters were there.
Well done Frank! Love the video!
Heh, you should call that first one a ZERO CLEARANCE RIVING KNIFE (thunder crashes as another word is added to the shop glossary)
Edit: 7:00 Awesome shot!
Have they held up?
cchaffin2012 Still working great.
frank howarth do you still use these today? I haven't noticed in your current videos. Thanks!
Man, I thought I had old iron! The factory throat plate in my Powermatic 72 looks like yours, all chewed up, a vastly sloppy original fit, and unsupported to the right of the blade. What do you think of taking the top to a machine shop to be milled to provide a support ledge for the right side of a shop-built throat plate? Alternatively, how about drilling and tapping the underside of the saw top for a small supporting ledge to carry an insert? Considering the work involved, I can't work up much enthusiasm for either approach. How about making zero clearance throat plates out of 1/4" aluminum and using Muggyweld to solder in splitters? I'd appreciate your opinion on these ideas. Thank you.
Thanks for the excellent video, Frank. I plan on making some splitters for my old Craftsman saw. One question, do you plan on making splitters that fit your ZCI when doing angled cuts? Or is a splitter not really needed when your blade is tilted?
After a second kickback from my vintage Delta table saw, I began a search for a solution to the back side of the blade catapulting boards at my body. Thank you for posting this one, Frank: I think I can reproduce your elegantly simple solution!
Nice safety feature and straighter cuts too ... Double score bonus points! Nice work (both the project and the video). Thanks for sharing.
I really loved the shot at the end with the plywood passing underneath the camera - that's an awesome perspective!
Very interesting video, Frank - thank you very much. I'd never really realised the point of zero clearance inserts but this has cleared that up!
Are you feeling OK? Your voice has been sounding a little croaky in the last few videos - hope you're alright!
Mr. Howarth this is just great. Can it be done with other materials such as those white cutting boards from the kitchen? Maybe even aluminum? I'm just going for a wild guess. Thanks for sharing.
LOL Seriously. I made mine out of Corian and when fitting it, tight I may add, I for forgot the finger pull too. Awesome channel bro.
Hi Frank, I love your videos and I too have a shop in my backyard....not as epic as yours but creative non the less..... I live in Portland also. Keep up the cool edits and projects!
Frank,
Have you considered busting up lumber on your big band band saw? It's a lot safer/waste less wood.
Glenn
I have only made one zero clearance plate before, I made it out plywood and I did not get it exactly the same thickness. I was cutting a dado in the back of a raised panel frame and the frame got caught on the plate, I let up pressure just slightly and the next thing I knew I was in the ER. The panel caught on the plate them lifted up jump the track of the dado and shot out of my hand, but it caused my fingers to curl under and touch the top of the dado blade. It took the fingernail off my index finger and ground down the bone on my first knuckle and left three nice chunks of flesh hanging. ER doctor just pulled it all up and stitched it together loosely and sent me home, lesson learned. Make sure the insert is exactly the same thickness.
That opening sequence was awesome! I hope you get involved in some movie production someday because your cinematography takes any subject to another level.
Damn, thats an impressive jointer and disc sander!
Im not sure how it could be done, or for that matter if its possible, but what about having interchangeable fins for each plate? Im just thinking if the saw depth needed to be shallow that high fin would get in the way. It would be easier (at least in my opinion) to be able to pull the fin out and replace it than to have a completely different throat plate.
Frank,
Your cleverness and skill never ceases to impress me. Great idea, great video. Please, keep sharing with us.
Why not just have a short riving knife, say 1/2 to 1" tall as all it needs do is keep the pieces from jamming against the blade and getting kicked out, it would still help in keeping the material against the fence for a straighter cut.
Man frank howarth do I just love your videos! Great content and entertainment! Thank you for putting all of your time and energy into these quality videos!
One of the best DIY videos I have come across! You call the fins delicate but If they prevent just one single incident at the table saw they are well worth it! Ten thumbs up!