I put this system on my old (no riving knife/splitter available) and it works great. I've watched this video several times. Your videos are so clear and your enthusiasm is contagious.
Hello Madam, I also have this Dewalt table saw, thank you for this ingenious explanation, but I would also like to know where to get this insert suitable for this table saw. I reside in Israel, far from the United States; if you could let me know where I can order this part, I will be very grateful to you.
Great video, as are all of your videos.. great explanations of why as well as how. My woodworking chops not so hot-- comfortable with metal (mess up - weld it up and do it over!!) but wood has always scared me..kinda. I have an older Craftsman 10" saw and it does not allow for a riving knife which obviates the ability to make use a cross cut sled-- too dangerous without that protections. This appears to bet he perfect solution to both accuracy, ability to make smaller cuts and make and use a sled (saw you vids on that topic too!!) I am now a subscriber and look forward to becoming more educated as a result. Thanks, Larry
Must be an optical illusion because that blade does not look centered in that slot. The front of the blade looks to be closer to the fence than the back of the blade. Is it just me or does anyone else see it too? I'm sure it's just the camera angle and the curvature of the blade but it looks crazy - lol.
I installed my first micro-jig about a month ago. MY wife is happy (she's a worry wart.) I am secretly more comfortable and am getting better quality cuts as well. I really prefer it over my after-market riving knife. Richmond VA
I have only one question...I am going to start using a 7-1/4" blade instead of a 10. Should I use my 10" to make this or can I use my 7-1/4? I'm going to do this....this week thank you
Brian Prusa yep I know, but don’t understand why. Like I said I’ve ran zero clearance inserts on my DeWalt saw (same model) and had no problem cutting a slot for the riving knife.
I got a 1950's Unisaw recently and if there ever was a riving knife it's long gone and a factory replacement can't be found. This thing might help my wife and my dad stop nagging me...
Thanks for going through the installation. You simplified the process tremendously. I have a Craftsman 113.298762 and had to use a metal drill bit to drill through the throat plate lip for the last kerf keeper hole, but it wasn't difficult, just a heads up for anyone else out there with a 113.298762.
Thanks for the kind words. 3x3 Custom does great work. For the older saws that do not have the 2" behind the blade that we recommend, you can use our Steel Pro Splitters, but only drill for the first one, leaving the second off. This requires about half the space of the two-splitter setup.
Cheri, if you look, you will see a small screw head in the edge of the throat plate she is using. That is adjusted to fit the plate into the opening so it does not move within the top opening. It also helps to keep the plate in place. Not all throat plates are lockable in the way you mean.
@@MicrojigI’m talking about her stock plate…it’s the same one I have and there’s a lock knob center bottom. She ran that test piece through without locking the plate down. 😮
I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?
You can cut aluminum with wood blades (be wary of plastic tools/parts anywhere the saw dust would normally shoot), .0625" aluminum flat stock + router and the trick with creating the blade slot shown in the video and you're rolling.
is that a wood insert or medal I only have a regular insert that's medal insert( like the first one you showed. )What thickness and type of material did you use to make a clearance insert
William, you can buy plates already made in phenolic or nylon. You can also make your own out of a good quality 1/2" plywood. Use your existing plate as a template for making a Zero Clearance plate.
Finesse, we do not sell the Zero Clearance Insert. You can buy them in many places and making your own is often not too difficult. Do a web search for "Zero Clearance Insert" and your saw model. That should give you buying options. As for making your own, Woodworker's Journal has a pretty great video here: th-cam.com/video/z5er5jVg3zE/w-d-xo.html
I think the amount of flex in the standard throat plate is insignificant unless one deliberately pushes down on pushstick more than needed on a small workpiece. If workpiece is larger then it is fully supported by tablesaw top and flex should not be a problem. What do you think?
I never thought about sagging inserts! Thanks for that. And thanks for telling us that the second splitter pops free when a board squeezes it. Those little gadgets are ingenious.
Instead of modifying the insert and/or the riving knife you are throwing it away and switching to a splitter , which is inferior in every way. No, thanks. Bad tutorial.
Actually, we are VERY clear about using the riving knife if your saw has one. All NEW saws sold in the US have a riving knife now, but MANY older saws still in use do not. Also, the riving knife opening is often too large to safely cut very thin strips. The strips can fall into the riving knife opening. For example, the opening on the SawStop is about 1/2" wide so you cannot safely rip anything less than 3/8". By using a ZCI with MJ Splitters, I can safely rip down to 1/8" using the GRR-RIPPER.
Dean, every brand and often even model of saw has a different ZCI, so any link is not likely to be relevant to your saw (Sawstop alone has lists 4 different sizes and three different styles) Best bet is to do a search online using your saw make and model.
ya ya ya. Let's see what your building that needs such exactness. This is not a star ship we are building here. as more farter for the videos Good luck with all of that.
Sorry you found it too complicated. The process requires attention, but is not difficult, many thousands of users are safely cutting on their table saws using our MJ Splitters.
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Thanks so much! The directions for the mj splitter were like reading a Calculus proof. You took a long project and made it simple.
Did you say you "hope this helps someone out there"? Well, it did. Thanks for the video.
I put this system on my old (no riving knife/splitter available) and it works great. I've watched this video several times. Your videos are so clear and your enthusiasm is contagious.
Excellent. Thank you
Hey there where did you get the insert plate at? Love your channel have a great day!
Hello Madam, I also have this Dewalt table saw, thank you for this ingenious explanation, but I would also like to know where to get this insert suitable for this table saw. I reside in Israel, far from the United States; if you could let me know where I can order this part, I will be very grateful to you.
Great video, as are all of your videos.. great explanations of why as well as how. My woodworking chops not so hot-- comfortable with metal (mess up - weld it up and do it over!!) but wood has always scared me..kinda. I have an older Craftsman 10" saw and it does not allow for a riving knife which obviates the ability to make use a cross cut sled-- too dangerous without that protections. This appears to bet he perfect solution to both accuracy, ability to make smaller cuts and make and use a sled (saw you vids on that topic too!!) I am now a subscriber and look forward to becoming more educated as a result. Thanks, Larry
Good to hear Larry.
Must be an optical illusion because that blade does not look centered in that slot.
The front of the blade looks to be closer to the fence than the back of the blade.
Is it just me or does anyone else see it too?
I'm sure it's just the camera angle and the curvature of the blade but it looks crazy - lol.
Table saved are different in that how they install zero clearance. Bottom line and may God bless you
Patrick, that is true, but most work similarly enough that we can figure them out when we change saws.
Thank you for doing this! I have had it sitting in a box for 2 months now. I can now follow step by step with you! Thank you!
Hi How and where did you get the zero clearance insert I have a bosch table saw any help would be appreciated Cheers Kim
“Super Simple” you say, but earlier you did say confusing. Thanks for the video.
I installed my first micro-jig about a month ago. MY wife is happy (she's a worry wart.) I am secretly more comfortable and am getting better quality cuts as well. I really prefer it over my after-market riving knife. Richmond VA
What’s the meter / track mechanism that you used to check the right angle of the blade?
Straight edge with adjustable 90* square
Basically a metal ruler with a block on it, that you can set a height and lock in place
Wow, what an awesome job, thank you so much for sharing this video! I learned a lot and feel comfortable with inserting my zero-clearance insert!
I can't seem to get the insert completely flush all around on my saw. My saw and the insert are the same as yours. What can I do?
I have only one question...I am going to start using a 7-1/4" blade instead of a 10. Should I use my 10" to make this or can I use my 7-1/4? I'm going to do this....this week thank you
Instructions state 'designed to work with a 10" saw blade only.'
Which zero clearance plate did you use?
Great tutorial > I continue to learn from you!! :)
Why add a splitter? That saw is equipped with a riving knife system. A zero clearance throat plate worked just fine on my DeWalt saw.
Learning the Hard Way addressed this in the video just after 2:55
Brian Prusa yep I know, but don’t understand why. Like I said I’ve ran zero clearance inserts on my DeWalt saw (same model) and had no problem cutting a slot for the riving knife.
Learning the Hard Way yeah, probably just liability thing with legal stuff. They want you to use the one that it comes with.
I have an older Grizzly 1023 table saw and there is NO riving knife available.
I got a 1950's Unisaw recently and if there ever was a riving knife it's long gone and a factory replacement can't be found. This thing might help my wife and my dad stop nagging me...
do they have one for a 8-1/4 inch dewalt DWE7485? and you mentioned a vix bit? What brand do you recommend?
Thanks for this upload, it was very helpful to me!
Great instructional video, thank you!
Is there any way that you could use a blade guard with this system?
Thanks for going through the installation. You simplified the process tremendously. I have a Craftsman 113.298762 and had to use a metal drill bit to drill through the throat plate lip for the last kerf keeper hole, but it wasn't difficult, just a heads up for anyone else out there with a 113.298762.
Thanks for the kind words. 3x3 Custom does great work.
For the older saws that do not have the 2" behind the blade that we recommend, you can use our Steel Pro Splitters, but only drill for the first one, leaving the second off. This requires about half the space of the two-splitter setup.
2:44 I clamped my 2X4 NEXT to the blade, so as not to mess up a good 2X4.
7:00 You didn’t lock your plate down 😮
Cheri, if you look, you will see a small screw head in the edge of the throat plate she is using.
That is adjusted to fit the plate into the opening so it does not move within the top opening. It also helps to keep the plate in place.
Not all throat plates are lockable in the way you mean.
@@MicrojigI’m talking about her stock plate…it’s the same one I have and there’s a lock knob center bottom. She ran that test piece through without locking the plate down. 😮
Great instruction and information!
Imagen buying one instead of making one yourself
Your personality and presentation are too good not to subscribe. I support your efforts and honesty
I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?
You can cut aluminum with wood blades (be wary of plastic tools/parts anywhere the saw dust would normally shoot), .0625" aluminum flat stock + router and the trick with creating the blade slot shown in the video and you're rolling.
is that a wood insert or medal
I only have a regular insert that's medal insert( like the first one you showed. )What thickness and type of material did you use to make a clearance insert
William, you can buy plates already made in phenolic or nylon. You can also make your own out of a good quality 1/2" plywood. Use your existing plate as a template for making a Zero Clearance plate.
You’re a brilliant teacher! Thank you for teaching me so much! I’ve watched dozens of your videos.
Deb, Tamar is awesome! She may see your comment, but you can tell her directly on her own channel: www.youtube.com/@3x3CustomTamar
I need to apprentice at your shop
Excelente…, muito bem explicado, eu tenho uma igual DW 745, uma excelente máquina na categoria dela!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Good job. well done!
Please send me your old insert.
Perfect solution for my older table saw. where can I buy the zero clearance insert? thank you so much for this option. great video!
Finesse, we do not sell the Zero Clearance Insert. You can buy them in many places and making your own is often not too difficult. Do a web search for "Zero Clearance Insert" and your saw model. That should give you buying options. As for making your own, Woodworker's Journal has a pretty great video here: th-cam.com/video/z5er5jVg3zE/w-d-xo.html
@@Microjig ok. Thank you!
8:08 all the way down the board. Take my words for it 😂
Feel free to try it yourself. You'll find the same.
Good job, thanks
I think the amount of flex in the standard throat plate is insignificant unless one deliberately pushes down on pushstick more than needed on a small workpiece. If workpiece is larger then it is fully supported by tablesaw top and flex should not be a problem. What do you think?
Awesome
I never thought about sagging inserts! Thanks for that.
And thanks for telling us that the second splitter pops free when a board squeezes it. Those little gadgets are ingenious.
Instablaster
très beau
Instead of modifying the insert and/or the riving knife you are throwing it away and switching to a splitter , which is inferior in every way. No, thanks. Bad tutorial.
Actually, we are VERY clear about using the riving knife if your saw has one. All NEW saws sold in the US have a riving knife now, but MANY older saws still in use do not.
Also, the riving knife opening is often too large to safely cut very thin strips. The strips can fall into the riving knife opening. For example, the opening on the SawStop is about 1/2" wide so you cannot safely rip anything less than 3/8".
By using a ZCI with MJ Splitters, I can safely rip down to 1/8" using the GRR-RIPPER.
I see no link to zero clearance insert?
Dean, every brand and often even model of saw has a different ZCI, so any link is not likely to be relevant to your saw (Sawstop alone has lists 4 different sizes and three different styles)
Best bet is to do a search online using your saw make and model.
ya ya ya. Let's see what your building that needs such exactness. This is not a star ship we are building here. as more farter for the videos Good luck with all of that.
Sorry you found it too complicated. The process requires attention, but is not difficult, many thousands of users are safely cutting on their table saws using our MJ Splitters.
There's always one.
Check out the MJ Splitter SteelPro here - store.microjig.com/3x3
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Thanks Mr. Ken, we're on it!