Riving Knife vs Splitter Which to Choose and When for Safe woodworking Tablesaw Cuts avoid kickback
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- True Riving Knife vs. Splitter - Which is the better choice and why for safe woodworking? Decrease the chance of kickback and improve cut quality of cuts with these simple safety devices. Plus learn a bonus accessory if you don't have access to a riving knife or splitter. Quickly review the advantages and disadvantages of each method to avoid kickback at the table saw, and we'll finish up by reading a couple funny comments from viewers.
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Excellent info, good presentation. Don't let the haters bother you.
Thank you Willie. Your dept of knowledge and clear practical suggestions are very helpful. The most valuable comment (of many) involved ensuring that the riving knife never be wider than blade thickness.
I really appreciate this video, thanks. Just got an old used table saw (cheap brand) with no fence, no riving knife, no blade guard, and no sled. Will have to make these myself, except a generic splitter, which I'll have to find at Amazon.
Thanks. Sometimes we learn most when we modify our tools. I hardly have a tool left in the shop that I haven't modified to suit my needs.
Solid advice and well presented.
Thanks Roland!
Great topic. Often overlooked. I’ve always had a RK so I never thought about splitters. And it never occurred to me that blade width matters. Very useful to know. Thanks.
Thanks Woody! You're a nice guy.
So, another option still are stock feeders. Jessem makes a set. Hongdui makes a knockoff. These mount to the top of your fence, and have have spring-loaded wheels with tacky rubber tires attached - and this is critical - using one-way bearings, and at a 3° angle towards the fence. This means that they are constantly exerting downward and inward ("fenceward"?) force on the workpiece. Coupled with a good push block (see: the Grripper or any of its scores of knockoffs, now their patent is up), and you have something that's almost as safe as the riving knife.
Problem with feather boards, stock guides, or even the Grripper is that, if you have a highly-stressed piece of hardwood, and it clamps down on that blade, you better damn well hope your motor binds long enough to kill the power. Because the alternative is discovering what the irresistible force does to a MOVABLE object.
Yes, I have a set of roller wheels, but I never use them. I find they get in the way of my push stick. For cabinet makers cutting wide panels they'd be great. Thanks.
11.17.23. Thanks much. Where can I call for help in choosing an after market Riving knife or splitter for my old Delta 10” contractor table saw?
I don't think you'll find a true riving knife for an older saw, but Microjig or Infinity would have splitter options. Best to you.
@jimballard3767 You might want to check out Sharkguard. Just picked up a riving knife and mount for my table saw that didn’t come with one. It’s a manual adjust up and down
I have a splitter but it's mounted on the back trunnion, so it tilts with the blade. The blade insert opening for it is thus wider. It Has the same shark fin shape as a riving knife, but has a fixed height of about 1-1/8", which should be fine. Thicker wood won't start pinching at the top while the bottom is held apart by the splitter. Easy to remove for non through cuts, and not needed, since the wood that's not being cut stays the same width, just as with a dado cut.
Thanks very much! I’ll follow up.
Dont touch me. 😡
I liked the information you provided in this video. Thank you.
Thanks Phillip!
I didn't get how the feather board is helping with binding, kick back, etc. Could you please elaborate? Thanks
So kickback can occur when the board drifts away from the fence, and into the spinning blade. Since a TS blade is spinning toward the user, it can fling the board back at you. So in that way a featherboard helps hold the stock against the fence. A riving knife is better at preventing binding, say if your board releases internal tension as you make a rip cut.
Also, featherboards only work if you already have two parallel edges.
Best to you.
Choose your weapon for improved cut quality and safety at the Tablesaw.
Thank you great tips.
Thanks for weighing in. Appreciate it.
I never knew what a riving knife was. My Uniguard came with a splitter and anti-kickback pawls so I never thought about it. The splitter does tilt with the blade but doesn't change height. I don't see any way a riving knife would attach and change height with the blade.
A riving knife comes with all new saws. Since it attaches to the arbor, it tilts and raises / lowers with the blade. It would be hard to retrofit one on an older saw I guess. Best to you.
I just started with a table saw. Does the riving knife totally prevent kickback? I've unfortunately experienced the kickback. I did watch some videos before I tried using the saw for the 1st time and saw some kickbacks. I must say however when I experienced it in real time I didn't dig it! Lol. I didn't get hurt I positioned myself a little left of the blade. But... It kinda put the fear of god into me! Is there anything to completely prevent kickback? Thank you I enjoy your presentations I subscribed.
I haven't experienced kickback since getting a tablesaw with a true riving knife. If that's not in the cards, there are still other things you can do to help. Use a splitter or a featherboard to prevent kickback. I like magnetic featherboards (if you have a cast iron top) like these... amzn.to/3OD8wEF they're just so easy to use!
This is a small craftsman saw. It came with a riving knife. It looks pretty cheesy not like yours. Did you make that RV? Can I buy a better RV? Does it have to be from Craftsman? I will get the featherboard. I appreciate the suggestions. Take your time replying. I'm sure you are busy. Thank you.
@@jeffvoght1632 A true riving knife will raise, lower and tilt with the blade. They are generally very good. My Laguna Fusion F2 and Sawstop PCS both have one. A splitter or blade guard splitter just sits there. It won't move up and down, and won't tilt with the blade. If nothing else, the magnetic featherboard should help.
Best to you!
Thank you very much. I appreciate your response. I want to keep my fingers! Lol
It could be that the riving knife is not set up properly, either too far back or too low and it never had the chance to prevent kickback.
1- If it was too far it could be that the workpiece moved slightly before reaching the riving knife was pulled by the blade
2- or the riving was setting too low below the blade and that could result in kickback if you did not push down properly (you tilted the piece backward) or similar to case #1 it got pulled upwards and back to you by the blade before it was in riving knife range
one good tip I could give you is when you are less experienced, do not look at the cut location but look at the fence and its alignment with the work piece. That way you will build up muscle memory of how to push your work piece
Wish you a safe and happy woodworking!