TGR Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Tonight at the Quick Speed Shop I'm giving a 10 minute review of an awesome tool I picked up. It's a TGR Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool. If you flare a lot of line this tool will make that process quick and easy. Come check it out!
amzn.com/B01HOX...
TGR Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool $199.99
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#tool #review #brakeline
I gave in and bought this tool because I spent DAYS trying to get good flares out of the old style tool. well worth it in the savings in time and frustration alone.
this tool is great, I did my mustang brake lines in stainless, it makes double flares in stainless like the lines are made of butter, super fast
I bet it would. It didn't even know the plain steel lines were there.
I just bought one to do the stainless lines in my 64 Impala
Wow, think I need that! I have the old style crap one that you first showed. I think anytime I ever got a good flair with it I usually forgot to put on the fitting, lol
It's one of the best tools I have ever bought!
I'm adding this to my list. Ive used the old style flare tools, and I've never had any luck. They are a pain in the ass. This new flare tool looks badass and looks.like it makes the job much easier
Hellyeah Roadkill life school!! 🤘🤘🤘 I also purchased same tool from the amazon. Good stuff!
I paid $167 for mine TGR doing rear brake on 86 Camaro IROC Z bubble flare great tool
Thank you for doing this review.
I just threw my manual one out and ordered this new one. That manual one has costed me too much money and headaches redoing flares.
I love mine and it works mint every time
Nice video! Quick question, did you have to deburr the lines or did you just cut the brake line and form the flares?
I have a countersink bit I just turn in the end of the tubing by hand to debur it.
What lube would be the best to use when making brake flare? Red Rubber Grease?
I just spray a little penetrating oil on the end of the tube before I flare it.
The manual states one should use an anti-seize compound. I use motor oil but after the first attempts sliped with 3/16 steel line I made sure I cleaned the the die and only put oil on the very end of the brake line. One needs to crank down pretty hard even on the 3/16 line to prevent if from being pushed out of die. I may try wrapping some sandpaper around it as suggested by someone else here for larger lines. I assume you may mean red gear/bearing grease. That should work too.
You do bubble flairs when you have a female tube nut, and double flares for male tube nuts.
Have you experienced the line slipping out of the dye? I cranked it down pretty good,still slips. This is with both steel and Nicopp 3/8 line. Making me nuts.
I haven't done much 3/8 with it, but haven't had a problem
Having same problem with 5/16 line I’m sure that the double flared tool was not flared with this tool went to a machine shop and they flared it with a $50 tool and had them try this tool same thing they said there’s nothing to grip the tube but it will work with soft copper cause it will give easy
I have this problem every time I use mine, I wrap a piece of paper around the tube a few times then clamp down - so far I have haven't had an issue using this method. Without it the lines always push out of the die!
great video...thank you sir
BAM! it is!!
I agree it makes a better flare, but what about when you have to flare a line that is in compromise place under the vehicle?
Have to use the old style tool under the vehicle or replace the entire line fitting to fitting.
I just bought one and am trying to figure out how to flare end of line that goes to front of car. I have the line pulled out at wheel well so it is hanging out 3 or 4 feet from the vehicle. I think my options are:
1) to put the vice on the receiver of another vehicle and back vehicle up to the one being repaired
2) cut square hole in piece of wood to act as a vice and lower vehicle wheel onto the wood to prevent it from rotating. Another option would be to use 2nd vehicle to weigh down the wood.
3) I have been able to make test flares in my kitchen without a vice by using a 9" or longer adjustable wrench that opens to 1.5" or more or use a fixed open end wrench that is a 1.5" wrench. I may be able to do the same and use some wood block to raise the tool enough so that I can push down on the handle.
But, does it do stainless steel line?
I haven't tried stainless, but I'm going to guess that it probably will.
The snap on hydraulic flair tool is the cats ass. also makes fuel lines.
Does the tool work for stainless steel brake lines? I need 45° single flares.
I think it would, but I haven't done stainless lines so I can't say for sure.
@@QuickSpeedShop thanks anyway, I just found that the description on Amazon mentions 'Stainless' capability.
It's made in Taiwan but I have other real good quality tools from there.
I bought this having trouble doing a 5/16 double flare tried several of times but the tube slides and I cranked it up really hard
Sorry to hear that. I mainly use it for 3/16 and 1/4 and haven't had a prob
Try lubing the end of the tube you're flairing so the die doesn't wear prematurely, and so that the die won't have as hard a time pushing on the tube. If that doesn't work, try adding a piece of tape to the channel in the top block half to make the channel a little narrower (and don't forget the lube, too).
Ok thanks I’ll try that
the old way is Junk U need prayer to make it perfect, and the New tool is OVER KILL for DIY. I got mine $40 3/16 flaring tool its called TITAN flaring tool
I have the same titan flaring tool, and the thing is garbage. Flares come out crooked and 90% of the time the double flare cracks during the second procedure. The titan double flare tool is a waste of money. When it comes to brakes, good tools are priceless. Nothing is overkill when the safety of your life and the lives of others depend on a brake system that must function properly every time the brake pedal is used.
Nearly every youtube video I watch that involves a screw type clamp or a camover action is being used dry by the user. Doesn't anyone believe in lubrication? Put a little oil those things! Why do you think manufacturers put oil in engines?
What little coating tools have from the factory is designed to provide short term protection against rust. It's not designed to lubricate. A little oil will greatly improve the functionality of the tool and increase the tool life. It also makes your tool work with greater ease.
I have used the old style tool for years and never once held it in a vice. It was easy enough to use by hand because I always lubricated the threads and dies.
You said your old tool was a little stripped? I bet you never added even a drop of oil to those threads.
The dies also work better with a little lubrication.
If it slides or turns it needs lubrication.
Lubricate, Lubricate, Lubricate!
I did lube the old one, but it was cheap Chinese junk and the threads galled anyway and stripped. I use lube on the dies when I make fittings. I spray in a little Castle Thrust.
i just bought the fancy flare tool. tried more than 20 flares. every single one is malformed. incredibly frustrating. 3/16 ni-copper sae double flares and din bubble flares.
Sorry to hear that. No trouble with mine.
I watched the eastwood video. before coming here. QSS doesn't lube the end of the tube that's being flaired, and over-tightens the block before alignment with operation 0. It just needs to be snug, not one ugga-dugga snug. Also, make sure the die block is laying flat on the tool before doing operation 0.
No one wants to see the old one!!!
I was using the old one as a comparison. You know you can fast forward to the new tool if that's all you want to see, right?
@@QuickSpeedShop I know I was just in a really bad mood. I’m sorry man