Thank you! For years I been trying to find a tool to make the bubble to hold on the rubber hose! Years ago,, many years ago, there was a tool just for making a bubble in a line,, and I haven't seen it since! So now everyone shows you how to make all different flares with all these new tools, but not one person shown how to make a bubble,, so I would know the tool to buy. You are the first person I found to show a tool make a bubble!. Not quite the bubble as done in the old days,, but close enough for exactly the reason you shown! Thank you!
I appreciate you watching and happy I could help. I ended up doing a 2nd video showing how to make the bubble flare using a $30 tool vs the $300+ hydraulic tool. If you’re bored and want to check it out, here’s the link: th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GTEP5uD2YdYujEWb . Again, thank you for watching and commenting.
Thank you for that! I just watched that video! The hydraulic made a nicer bubble. I don't know how old you are, but maybe 3 or 4 decades ago, there was a tool , I can't even remember what it looked like,, we had one in the shop, not in my own box for me to remember. But, it made a slightly bigger bubble a tad bit further in the tube! On older carbureted cars, sometimes the metal fuel lines already had the type bubble that the hose went over from the factory. But, I guess as times change, so do the less need and disappearance of certain tools! But, when I finally watched your video ( I was just watching to see what this tool done because there is one for sale on marketplace, and I never saw this tool before), that's when I was impressed that you made that bubble,, that is pretty darn good for what I want!! I was watching a bunch of these videos, your was the only one to show the bubble. Now I am wondering if all these kits have that die for all sized lines,, because if I am buying one of these, of course I want one to do it all!! :) So, again! Thanks!! And have a spifftacular day!! @@ogresspeedshop
Thank you! I made some great bubble flare and a double for the carb fitting a few hours ago and needed to make a quick bubble on some steel 3/8 at my table, kept making nice double flares and couldnt remember what i was doing wrong; keep it simple! This is the best video on a simple bubble flare
Hey bro, I realize that your fuel line flaring video is a year old but, I wanted to mention, The 1st brake flaring tool u showed, If u make a single flare then use the cone tip that is on the forcing screw/C-clamp, that will fold a single flare into a double flare Secondly, I see that you used sleel line to make your flares, nicop/ Nickel copper line forms much easier & is much easier on your tools & thirdly, I always use a bit of lube when making my flares. I use brake fluid, or penatrating lube/spray, or wheel bearing grease, anti-seize, MAKING SURE TO BRAKE CLEAN ALL OF IT OUT OF THE FITTINGS B4 INSTALLATION! Your tools will thank you for it & last much longer along with saving alot of time!!! I just realized that I canbuse a caulking gun & the bar from the 1st flare kit u showed, to join fittings to nylon tubing. I was going to modify a hand clamp similar to to nylon forming tools online/amazon/ebay. I hope you have a happy new year! Happy Hollidays!
The one place this Mastercool kit is unparalleled is for making those push lock fittings, but it's hard to stomach the $500 tool cost for one rare use. Dorman sell preformed straight length segments with a push lock fitting for nylon connectors at one end, and you can find a way to couple at the other end, either with plastic, rubber or steel. I like how you found a way to bubble the end for rubber hose connections.
The mastercool kit paid for itself at my last job. We did all custom classic muscle cars with all new and custom fuel systems. I probably made more push lock fitting than flared fittings. If you use them everyday they are worth it for sure. Thanks for your comment and and input on the Dorman products!!
The last time I had to make a new push lock tube to accept those GM nylon connectors I machined a washer the same diameter and thickness as the rusted out factory tube and silver brazed it onto the new line. Took longer but worked perfectly.
@@MarkFukui-cq2mp you can do the same thing with a $30 kit from harbor freight too. Here’s the video I made to demonstrate that if you’re interested. Thank you for the comment and I’m happy to hear I could help you. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MlNn4bHzXPZwzaQ9
My Mastercool flaring tool is newer and it has a little flush-up device on the side of the holder that helps you set the tube depth when you don't have clear line of sight. Nice to have. I break it out maybe twice a year and it's still worth the price.
It’s been awhile since I’ve had to work on anything too dirty. That’ll change, hopefully soon. I want to start doing some revivals and “will it run” videos once I get fully settled in and find some other projects. Good to hear from ya!!
Have you seen my video where I used a $30 flaring tool from harbor freight to do the same thing. If not, check it out. It can be done without the expensive tool as well. Thank you for watching!! th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Y7UAq249gs95wFfj
i have found... that up here in maine,, the critters we have,, like to chew on my braided fuel line on my tuned 350hp 2004 subaru forester xt.. im gonna use a hard rubber fuel line amaazon kit, for my 2002 chevy silverado 1500hd with a 6.0l v8... im hoping it will last a few years till i do a better replacement. my truck is a learning experience.. i will have a pro subaru mechanic do the fuel line on my subaru.
I made this video since you asked about the push lock fittings. I hope it’s what you were hoping for. Let me know if there’s anything else I can do to make it better. Thank you for watching and I appreciate the questions. Here’s the new video. th-cam.com/video/QwaNapjjeEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LA3Ov1dPWs1pWw3t
I have a fuel leak on a Mazda 3 from the fuel pump to the hard line and it looks like the push lock fittings (GM style, but the latter one). We replaced the fuel line with stock part but iti is still leaking, Can I just not put a fuel line with clamps and it should work? I have no fancy tools like you do, but if I did I would have to cut the hard line and do what you did.
Sir, what materials are those lines you were demonstrating made from? I'm looking into replacing the rusted out line and flaring the supply,return, and eva fuel lines for a 1990 nissan D21 truck, and I think it's the same material.
I’ve always used the Polyvinyl Fluoride Brake Line, which is basically coated steel lines. Here’s the link to Oreilly’s, what I usually get that’s usually in stock. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/american-grease-stick/american-grease-stick-steel-polyvinyl-fluoride-brake-line/ags0/pa660/v/a/3109/automotive-car-2000-chevrolet-camaro?q=Pa660&pos=0 A lot of people have been going with the nickel copper (NICOP) lines lately. It’s always works pretty good. The thing with the Nissan is they’re most likely metric. So you want to look for it in 10MM or whatever size you may need. Hope this helps.
Anytime I can get away with it I prefer to use stainless steel safety wire tension clamps instead of spiral hose clamps on small diameter hoses. They are the way to go if you are making any connection with plenty of room to work. They are smoother with a low profile that look trick but are too hard to apply in some tight spots.
It’s a Mastercool kit. The design has changed a little since I got mine but it’s basically the same. www.mastercool.com/?s=Flaring+tool&post_type=product
Pretty much. It’s hard to explain but with this flaring tool you can feel the moment where it hits the perfect spot. There’s pressure and as you squeeze it kinda gives a little and that where you stop. It takes some practice to hit it but as long as you don’t go till it stops it works out pretty good. Just gotta practice.
Thanks for this video. I might have to connect a new nitrile rubber fuel hose to an existing steel fuel supply line on a fuel injected engine. How can I make that bubble flare without expensive tools?
You can accomplish it with the cheap flaring tools you can get at any parts store. If you want to save some money, harbor freight has the manual screw down style that can do the job as well. Just make sure it can do double flares and just do the first step of the double flare.
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I appreciate it. I made this video because of your comment and I hope it accomplished how it can work with a manual flaring tool as well. Again, thank you for the comment and for watching my videos. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jason, my name is Tim from eastern AZ. I've put a 1992 Jeep XJ, 4.0L engine in my 1983 Jeep CJ, and I want to use as much of the original XJ stainless steel fuel line as possible. Hence, there are several places where I'll need to make the slight bulge in the end of the stainless line to accomodate a (fuel injection rated) rubber fuel line connection. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that stainless line is a pain, please, will the Mastercool flaring tool do stainless lines OK? If not, please what tool should I use? Thanks.
The mastercool kit can do stainless. Problem with stainless is, it’s kinda brittle and will crack very easily. Just be careful working with it and you should be fine. If you plan on double flaring the stainless though, that’s when you have the most issues with cracking and splitting. I can’t remember off hand but there is a type of stainless that has a different mix of metal that resists corrosion just like normal but is easier to work with. I’m not sure what the stainless lines on your jeep would be like. But the mastercool kit should be able to put a bubble on the line. Make sure you use fuel injector clamps and not just standard work clamps.
Typically this type of flare is used on lower pressure applications. Like carbureted fuel lines and transmission lines. Usually transmission lines put out between 20-30 PSI which i think Is around 2-3 Bar. I don’t know how much pressure a washing machine puts out.
I’d say beading is closer to doing the fuel line push lock style of “flare”, like the GM fuel line. If you watch again at around the 2:00 mark, you’ll see that style.
Not these ones. I did a video video on flaring -AN hard lines. -AN flares are 37° angle for the flare where standard flares are 45°. So it take a special tool to flare for -AN fitting. th-cam.com/video/YujDR9YhWu0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dAzWa9jUqfnNxGpv
I don’t know if I would trust it for long. It could probably get you out of a pinch if needed… but I’ve never been a fan of fuel injection and hose clamps… atleast not over 40 psi. I know some older TBI systems only ran like 18 and I think it would probably work for that. If you do try that, make sure the hose is rated for fuel injection and you use the fuel injection clamps.
We have Gas Fuel Line Kit that may fit your equipment. We're happy to offer you the product completely free of charge in exchange for a video review. Do you need?
If it’s a standard line then you use a regular double flare… if it’s metric then it’s usually going to be a bubble style flare. I could probably do a video demonstrating each one if that’s something that could help you!
Great video believe I need the bubble flair for my 89 Toyota 4x4 3.0 engine but don't have that hydraulic flair tool. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun ps love the firebird
It’ll most likely be a metric bubble style flare on the Toyota. I remember back when I was a teenager wanting one of those trucks. Had a buddy back then.. around 92-93 time frame with one that had a built 350 SBC in it and with somewhere around 4:50 gearing, don’t remember exactly, and he could do wheelies in that thing. Great trucks, if you could keep the rust off of them. Thanks for the love of the Firebird too. I appreciate the comment!!
@@ogresspeedshop ya I've wanted one since my brother had like 6 of them in the 80s 90s I found this one couple weeks ago not running but is pretty much rust free but messed the fitting up on flex line that hooks to fuel pump line nobody has one so I'm thinking just put braided line on hard line n clamps.
Not sure where you got that idea, this kit is about $350. But you can do the same thing with a $30 flaring tool from harbor freight too. Like I demonstrate here. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_YS7_1nZ2vnQ1ne_
@@ogresspeedshop Fair enough. I stand corrected :). I am a normal guy, so that means I like tools, and I do have a few expensive ones too, but for jobs I only do once in a blue moon cheap tools that make you suffer a bit but get the job done are the way to go. I think I may have misjudged you. Liked and subscribed now 👍
I’m all about cheaper tools for one time jobs as well. After I retired from the Navy, I worked at a custom car shop and we made everything, basically from scratch. The hydraulic flaring tool was a vital investment for the amount of custom brake and fuel lines I made. One of my rules of thumb was, if I had to borrow the tool more than twice it was worth buying for myself. Heck, most of my automotive specialty tools I buy at Harbor Freight. So far it’s rare for me to break anything I get there. I’ve got some crappy stuff that I’ll never use again there too but for the most part, I’ve had good luck. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it!
That’s why I did a 2nd video showing how to do the same thing with a $30 kit from harbor freight. If you want, you can check it out here. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kcyrTaKu83vc8vR1
@bobdown9414….the average joe buys a brass flared compression fitting. Compresses the ferrel onto the tube, trims the excess if any. Now you have a flared end for about a buck.
Thank you! For years I been trying to find a tool to make the bubble to hold on the rubber hose! Years ago,, many years ago, there was a tool just for making a bubble in a line,, and I haven't seen it since! So now everyone shows you how to make all different flares with all these new tools, but not one person shown how to make a bubble,, so I would know the tool to buy. You are the first person I found to show a tool make a bubble!. Not quite the bubble as done in the old days,, but close enough for exactly the reason you shown! Thank you!
I appreciate you watching and happy I could help. I ended up doing a 2nd video showing how to make the bubble flare using a $30 tool vs the $300+ hydraulic tool. If you’re bored and want to check it out, here’s the link: th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GTEP5uD2YdYujEWb . Again, thank you for watching and commenting.
Thank you for that! I just watched that video! The hydraulic made a nicer bubble. I don't know how old you are, but maybe 3 or 4 decades ago, there was a tool , I can't even remember what it looked like,, we had one in the shop, not in my own box for me to remember. But, it made a slightly bigger bubble a tad bit further in the tube! On older carbureted cars, sometimes the metal fuel lines already had the type bubble that the hose went over from the factory. But, I guess as times change, so do the less need and disappearance of certain tools! But, when I finally watched your video ( I was just watching to see what this tool done because there is one for sale on marketplace, and I never saw this tool before), that's when I was impressed that you made that bubble,, that is pretty darn good for what I want!! I was watching a bunch of these videos, your was the only one to show the bubble. Now I am wondering if all these kits have that die for all sized lines,, because if I am buying one of these, of course I want one to do it all!! :) So, again! Thanks!! And have a spifftacular day!! @@ogresspeedshop
Thank you! I made some great bubble flare and a double for the carb fitting a few hours ago and needed to make a quick bubble on some steel 3/8 at my table, kept making nice double flares and couldnt remember what i was doing wrong; keep it simple! This is the best video on a simple bubble flare
Happy it could help. I appreciate the feedback!!
Great how to video. Not many showing basics of how to do this. Thanks
I was about to make a BIG mistake, until I saw this video!! Thanks alot dude!!!!!
Happy it helped you!!
Thank you so much for this! The instructions aren't great with the kit I bought. It's so helpful, I really appreciate it.
Hey bro, I realize that your fuel line flaring video is a year old but, I wanted to mention, The 1st brake flaring tool u showed, If u make a single flare then use the cone tip that is on the forcing screw/C-clamp, that will fold a single flare into a double flare Secondly, I see that you used sleel line to make your flares, nicop/ Nickel copper line forms much easier & is much easier on your tools & thirdly, I always use a bit of lube when making my flares. I use brake fluid, or penatrating lube/spray, or wheel bearing grease, anti-seize, MAKING SURE TO BRAKE CLEAN ALL OF IT OUT OF THE FITTINGS B4 INSTALLATION! Your tools will thank you for it & last much longer along with saving alot of time!!! I just realized that I canbuse a caulking gun & the bar from the 1st flare kit u showed, to join fittings to nylon tubing. I was going to modify a hand clamp similar to to nylon forming tools online/amazon/ebay. I hope you have a happy new year! Happy Hollidays!
Thanks for the Tips and Advice. Nice shop BTW 👍
This is great I have the Mastercool set never knew I could do the bubble.
The one place this Mastercool kit is unparalleled is for making those push lock fittings, but it's hard to stomach the $500 tool cost for one rare use. Dorman sell preformed straight length segments with a push lock fitting for nylon connectors at one end, and you can find a way to couple at the other end, either with plastic, rubber or steel. I like how you found a way to bubble the end for rubber hose connections.
The mastercool kit paid for itself at my last job. We did all custom classic muscle cars with all new and custom fuel systems. I probably made more push lock fitting than flared fittings. If you use them everyday they are worth it for sure. Thanks for your comment and and input on the Dorman products!!
The last time I had to make a new push lock tube to accept those GM nylon connectors I machined a washer the same diameter and thickness as the rusted out factory tube and silver brazed it onto the new line. Took longer but worked perfectly.
Very informative video. Thanks-you. I learned a lot.
Thanks for the video.
I just ordered the mastercool flaring kit.
👍👍👍👍
You're a life saver! Thanks for sharing
@@MarkFukui-cq2mp you can do the same thing with a $30 kit from harbor freight too. Here’s the video I made to demonstrate that if you’re interested. Thank you for the comment and I’m happy to hear I could help you.
th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MlNn4bHzXPZwzaQ9
Good instruction and camera work. 👍
My Mastercool flaring tool is newer and it has a little flush-up device on the side of the holder that helps you set the tube depth when you don't have clear line of sight. Nice to have.
I break it out maybe twice a year and it's still worth the price.
That’s a nice upgrade, my buddy over at recycled racing has one with that. Thanks for sharing!!
Great video, thank you.
Thanks cleared my mind!😊
Jason your hands are too clean! Good to see ya
It’s been awhile since I’ve had to work on anything too dirty. That’ll change, hopefully soon. I want to start doing some revivals and “will it run” videos once I get fully settled in and find some other projects. Good to hear from ya!!
Great video. Thanks
Sure would be nice if we all had one of those.
Have you seen my video where I used a $30 flaring tool from harbor freight to do the same thing. If not, check it out. It can be done without the expensive tool as well. Thank you for watching!!
th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Y7UAq249gs95wFfj
i have found... that up here in maine,, the critters we have,, like to chew on my braided fuel line on my tuned 350hp 2004 subaru forester xt.. im gonna use a hard rubber fuel line amaazon kit, for my 2002 chevy silverado 1500hd with a 6.0l v8... im hoping it will last a few years till i do a better replacement. my truck is a learning experience.. i will have a pro
subaru mechanic do the fuel line on my subaru.
That looks easier than thee compression unions used on 3/16 brake lines maybe I should try it
Good stuff brother!
I appreciate it brother. Hopefully I get a little better the more I do. Still messing up and working on editing. Thanks again!!
Excellent video. Thank You. Would you be able to show how to create the push-lock GM style fitting?
I made this video since you asked about the push lock fittings. I hope it’s what you were hoping for. Let me know if there’s anything else I can do to make it better. Thank you for watching and I appreciate the questions. Here’s the new video. th-cam.com/video/QwaNapjjeEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LA3Ov1dPWs1pWw3t
Good information thank you
Thank you for watching. I love hearing that my videos help people. I appreciate you commenting.
I have a fuel leak on a Mazda 3 from the fuel pump to the hard line and it looks like the push lock fittings (GM style, but the latter one). We replaced the fuel line with stock part but iti is still leaking, Can I just not put a fuel line with clamps and it should work? I have no fancy tools like you do, but if I did I would have to cut the hard line and do what you did.
Nice !
...another "dont" you want to be aware of is using the improper CLAMP on a hose/line connection, like the one used in you example! 😆
Sir, what materials are those lines you were demonstrating made from? I'm looking into replacing the rusted out line and flaring the supply,return, and eva fuel lines for a 1990 nissan D21 truck, and I think it's the same material.
I’ve always used the Polyvinyl Fluoride Brake Line, which is basically coated steel lines. Here’s the link to Oreilly’s, what I usually get that’s usually in stock. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/american-grease-stick/american-grease-stick-steel-polyvinyl-fluoride-brake-line/ags0/pa660/v/a/3109/automotive-car-2000-chevrolet-camaro?q=Pa660&pos=0
A lot of people have been going with the nickel copper (NICOP) lines lately. It’s always works pretty good. The thing with the Nissan is they’re most likely metric. So you want to look for it in 10MM or whatever size you may need. Hope this helps.
Um all the flares you showed us how to make in the video can be done with a regular double flaring tool. Which you can also do bubble flares with
Anytime I can get away with it I prefer to use stainless steel safety wire tension clamps instead of spiral hose clamps on small diameter hoses. They are the way to go if you are making any connection with plenty of room to work. They are smoother with a low profile that look trick but are too hard to apply in some tight spots.
How do you make the GM pushlock and fuel line “bubble”?
Awesome video whats the brand of the tool used on the video ?
It’s a Mastercool kit. The design has changed a little since I got mine but it’s basically the same.
www.mastercool.com/?s=Flaring+tool&post_type=product
Thank you!
Boss, so to make that bubble fitting for rubber hose, use an inverted flare adapter but don’t go down very far?
Pretty much. It’s hard to explain but with this flaring tool you can feel the moment where it hits the perfect spot. There’s pressure and as you squeeze it kinda gives a little and that where you stop. It takes some practice to hit it but as long as you don’t go till it stops it works out pretty good. Just gotta practice.
Thanks for this video. I might have to connect a new nitrile rubber fuel hose to an existing steel fuel supply line on a fuel injected engine. How can I make that bubble flare without expensive tools?
You can accomplish it with the cheap flaring tools you can get at any parts store. If you want to save some money, harbor freight has the manual screw down style that can do the job as well. Just make sure it can do double flares and just do the first step of the double flare.
Easy to bubble a line with that fancy tool. Show me how to do it with the manual kit
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I appreciate it. I made this video because of your comment and I hope it accomplished how it can work with a manual flaring tool as well. Again, thank you for the comment and for watching my videos.
th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jason, my name is Tim from eastern AZ. I've put a 1992 Jeep XJ, 4.0L engine in my 1983 Jeep CJ, and I want to use as much of the original XJ stainless steel fuel line as possible. Hence, there are several places where I'll need to make the slight bulge in the end of the stainless line to accomodate a (fuel injection rated) rubber fuel line connection. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that stainless line is a pain, please, will the Mastercool flaring tool do stainless lines OK? If not, please what tool should I use? Thanks.
The mastercool kit can do stainless. Problem with stainless is, it’s kinda brittle and will crack very easily. Just be careful working with it and you should be fine. If you plan on double flaring the stainless though, that’s when you have the most issues with cracking and splitting. I can’t remember off hand but there is a type of stainless that has a different mix of metal that resists corrosion just like normal but is easier to work with. I’m not sure what the stainless lines on your jeep would be like. But the mastercool kit should be able to put a bubble on the line. Make sure you use fuel injector clamps and not just standard work clamps.
so I am asking what will be max. bar pressure. Can you use it also for highpressure hoses for wash machines
Typically this type of flare is used on lower pressure applications. Like carbureted fuel lines and transmission lines. Usually transmission lines put out between 20-30 PSI which i think Is around 2-3 Bar. I don’t know how much pressure a washing machine puts out.
Is a bubble flare what we in aviation call beading?
I’d say beading is closer to doing the fuel line push lock style of “flare”, like the GM fuel line. If you watch again at around the 2:00 mark, you’ll see that style.
Hi Ogre, I am assuming these flares work with AN fittings?
Not these ones. I did a video video on flaring -AN hard lines. -AN flares are 37° angle for the flare where standard flares are 45°. So it take a special tool to flare for -AN fitting. th-cam.com/video/YujDR9YhWu0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dAzWa9jUqfnNxGpv
Nice video. Can the bubble flare handle fuel injection pressure?? 45-50 psi?
I don’t know if I would trust it for long. It could probably get you out of a pinch if needed… but I’ve never been a fan of fuel injection and hose clamps… atleast not over 40 psi. I know some older TBI systems only ran like 18 and I think it would probably work for that. If you do try that, make sure the hose is rated for fuel injection and you use the fuel injection clamps.
@@ogresspeedshop Yep, was going to use both: correct lines and clamps. thanks for showing us what's possible, and thanks for responding.
We have Gas Fuel Line Kit that may fit your equipment. We're happy to offer you the product completely free of charge in exchange for a video review. Do you need?
How do you flare front break hose line
If it’s a standard line then you use a regular double flare… if it’s metric then it’s usually going to be a bubble style flare. I could probably do a video demonstrating each one if that’s something that could help you!
Great video believe I need the bubble flair for my 89 Toyota 4x4 3.0 engine but don't have that hydraulic flair tool. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun ps love the firebird
It’ll most likely be a metric bubble style flare on the Toyota. I remember back when I was a teenager wanting one of those trucks. Had a buddy back then.. around 92-93 time frame with one that had a built 350 SBC in it and with somewhere around 4:50 gearing, don’t remember exactly, and he could do wheelies in that thing. Great trucks, if you could keep the rust off of them. Thanks for the love of the Firebird too. I appreciate the comment!!
@@ogresspeedshop ya I've wanted one since my brother had like 6 of them in the 80s 90s I found this one couple weeks ago not running but is pretty much rust free but messed the fitting up on flex line that hooks to fuel pump line nobody has one so I'm thinking just put braided line on hard line n clamps.
Hi, this is representative of Up2win and luxlead. We have fuel filters with clamps. Are you interested?
So what you’re saying is I need to go buy a thousand dollar tool. Thanks.
Not sure where you got that idea, this kit is about $350. But you can do the same thing with a $30 flaring tool from harbor freight too. Like I demonstrate here. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_YS7_1nZ2vnQ1ne_
@@ogresspeedshop Fair enough. I stand corrected :). I am a normal guy, so that means I like tools, and I do have a few expensive ones too, but for jobs I only do once in a blue moon cheap tools that make you suffer a bit but get the job done are the way to go. I think I may have misjudged you. Liked and subscribed now 👍
I’m all about cheaper tools for one time jobs as well. After I retired from the Navy, I worked at a custom car shop and we made everything, basically from scratch. The hydraulic flaring tool was a vital investment for the amount of custom brake and fuel lines I made. One of my rules of thumb was, if I had to borrow the tool more than twice it was worth buying for myself. Heck, most of my automotive specialty tools I buy at Harbor Freight. So far it’s rare for me to break anything I get there. I’ve got some crappy stuff that I’ll never use again there too but for the most part, I’ve had good luck. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it!
@@ogresspeedshop Anchors aweigh my friend. EM1(ss) myself👍
And ford uses those
Didn't use the basic tool 😢
I made a 2nd video using a $30 flaring tool from harbor freight. Here it is: th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7BL3ar2FNI043khT
bubble
Most diy cant afford that type of flaring tool for maybe a one off job.not very informative for average joe.
That’s why I did a 2nd video showing how to do the same thing with a $30 kit from harbor freight. If you want, you can check it out here. th-cam.com/video/xb6uW_DCGvQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kcyrTaKu83vc8vR1
Average Joe, here 👋 I found it very informative, thank you!
It can be bought from Aliexpress for about 200-300 USD. No need to buy the Mastercool branded one.
@bobdown9414….the average joe buys a brass flared compression fitting. Compresses the ferrel onto the tube, trims the excess if any. Now you have a flared end for about a buck.
Go trump
Spades or Euchre?