I believe your idea of the stuck ring is spot on. Freeing up the ring also increased the compression by a bit more that two fold. I never thought of that being a problem. But will tuck that away in my top pocket. Thanks for the videos.
@@HomeGaragechannel Hi there , my primer bulb is sponge and hard to pump, what should I do? Also I sprayed starting fluid and still engine is not starting. My engine is 25cc craftsman leaf blower. I see spark, compression is 75 psi , still not starting
I’m learning more and more by watching your videos. I would’ve stopped after checking everything you did and given it back to the owner. Thanks for sharing the information.
Nice diagnosis. I'm just learning about small engines a little bit, so this stuff is news to me. I had recently fixed (about 3 months ago) my old gas string trimmer which I had not used in about 30 years. The worst part was just a crumbled fuel line which was a shock to me, but then it made sense since it was made of rubber & it's been 3 decades. Also replaced spark plug which I should not have had to, but the old plug rolled off the desk & broke in 2 on the ground, heh. Imagine that, a 30-year old spark plug was just minding its own business in a trimmer just sitting in the garage unused for 30 years & then some idiot human took it out & boom, it breaks after hibernating for 3 decades, heh. My trimmer is humming along nicely & I can now use it, especially when my electric trimmer is having issues with the line auto-feed mechanism.
Great video. I have learned so much that I have purchased a 16 year old Troy Bilt mower to try my hand at small engine repairs. Thanks again for the indepth videos.
Glad to see your success with this blower. I have one on the shelf of that same brand that probably needs the same treatment. Glad you went the full measure on diagnosing this one and showed the disassembly too.
I work in a small engine repair shop, and we use Echo Red armor with good results in cleaning carbon buildup. Running one tank full through an engine makes a big difference..
@@HomeGaragechannel Your very welcome!! Im so grateful you take the time to upload your knowledge for us. Like I said before, you explain everything perfectly. I've learned so much about Small engines from you. I just wish there was more I could do to show my appreciation.
How much compression the engine needs to start is dependant on how big the engine is, if 2 differently sized engines have the same size leak in pressure, the one with the bigger displacement has more air that needs to be leaked over the same period of time, so it can run on lower compression levels.
I have the same blower I have not baby it used ethanol fuel nor have I ever drained the fuel during winter in Utah and yet it has served me well for over 11 years now runs like a champ! cheers great repair!
I honestly believe those blowers were made to replace about each year or two. I've had a couple and never fails, they stop working after a season or two. However, I bought a Stihl blower (a few dollars more) and I have been using that for at least six years without and problems... Guaranteed it starts and never have to worry about it working!
Thanks to this video I was able to take apart my poulan blower and the piston ring was also stuck, unfortunately it broke trying to get it off so I have 2 new ones coming , hopefully after installing that and changing out the gas lines as they were corroding it’ll work fingers crossed! Great videos I’m addicted! If you have a email I could send a question to I’d appreciate it as I’d be able to send a picture of what I’m talking about on another project I’m working on, thanks again for the awesome videos
That blower looks like a Homelite, and Craftsman they are most likely manufactured by the same manufacturer for all three. Thanks for your excellent tutorial.
Great blower and fantastic repair. I believe that the stuck piston ring caused too low compression and this combined with poor air and fuel flow caused this blower not to run.
I have the same leaf blower and was having trouble with it running. All I did was change all the fuel lines. Fuel filter and put a after market carburetor from Ebay for $13.00 and adjust the it a little. Starts great and runs really well.
It sounds good now ! Yes carbon build up on the piston over time then one day you run it hard shut it down and as the piston cools off the ring gets stuck , it does happen more than you would think , great job on your repair work !
Awesome repair IHG! I commend you on finding the issue and fixing it. I ROFL'ed at you saying "this blower is lucky to be $50 on a good day in November!" I'll try to remember that one!
I have Poulan leaf blower to, was built in 2007 I just changed the carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter, and air filter. I started it right up, no problems, I did make small adjustments to the carburetor. The fuel lines had broke, years ago. And it sat for at least 9 or 10 years. It cost me less than $20 to fix, and I can sell it for around $50-$60 . I can use it as well.
I bought a blower like this except it's a craftsman for 20 bucks and it just needed the idle screw adjusted. I think it's pretty reliable and a good replacement for my homelite tank.
First time my cylinder bolts backed out it sounded like a crotch rocket. Second time I put the thread locker on that the factory forgot. It is a flaw, you are correct.
I have also had a two cycle engine that had one seized ring the other wasn't. my model had two piston rings. i had to put my drill on it to get it to fire. Good video!
Obviously the stuck ring was the issue. Another one saved 👍👍👍 I also really like the idea of the extra hole in the exhaust. You actually could make it match the original outlet if you wanted to without issue. The extra flow helps get rid of heat from the engine, and as long as you adjust the carb to compensate for the extra flow it will be fine. That stick ring was definitely from too oil by the looks of what was in the tank, if the blower wasn't run much up at full operating temperature, it would have a hard time burning the excessive oil off. Also if the exhaust was a little plugged up with carbon like you thought it would be running richer than normal, making the problem worse. Great repair as always 👍👍👍👍
from my view in this case mostly yes and of course i find keeping it good clean shape and of course doing some of the normal tasks will keep something like this running good and top notch too etc.
@@HomeGaragechannel for sure mate i keep mine clean and in good condition and doing yearly basics from replacement parts including fuel filter and fuel line changing and even the spark plugs and whatever it needs and it,s a dead easy one to start for me and i keep my repair bills down as best as possible unless it was out of my skills etc.
Great video, I believe the stuck ring was the reason it wouldn't run, 2 strokes won't run if they're low on compression. They probably either used a cheap low quality oil in the gas or they added too much oil causing the piston ring to become carboned up and stuck.
Excellent Job there boss!! You did the right thing by taking it apart and rebuild it!! Sometimes a rich mixture of too much oil in the gas will cause it to burn rich making carbon disposits will gunk up engine internally!! Will also Sometimes score cylinderwall s and stuck rings on piston...
It could be that as the carbon was building up, the ring, piston, and all were hot, and so, everything was fitting perfectly as it ran, and as it cooled down, it shrank, pulling the seals away from the walls, making a massive gap. Also I think you're right about the lack of fuel draw.
Yes I think stuck ring was the cause. I’ve had two units with a similar problem. Poulenc pro ran like crazy then the next day wouldn’t start. Turned out one of the cheaply designed engine 2 screw cylinder bolts snapped. Sad when the only use 2 bolts to secure the the cylinder to the block. Tried drilling it out with no luck so it’s junk. Bought a Echo 2620 with 4 bolts and bearings on both sides of the crank. Not that much more$ but it’s a pro model and should last. The other unit was a craftsman, turned out ignition module too far from flywheel, regapped and starts with 1 or 2 pulled every time.
It’d probably be best to use the premixed engineered fuel for this thing since it tends to not produce as much carbon. Unless you are daring enough to run 60:1 in this thing.
Agree these are good blowers vs some garbage blowers now. That is, when they work lol. I worked mowing lawns for years long ago with a 85 year old man. He had a Craftsman same style and look as the Poulan. Said he brought it new long ago. Put nothing but no eth gas in it and Stihl oil. What I do know is it ran without a issue and still does. At the time I wanted one and had no blower. Course they are old and finding one is a hit and miss. Speed up to some years and I seen the Poulan on market place for 20 bucks. Brought it and of course carb issue. I must of been inside that blower and carb dozen times. Got it to run and still does, but prob needs new carb. Then out the blue I seen them and the black older Craftsman blowers that look like yours in vid. Story is, now I have about a dozen Poulan yellow and 5 so Craftsman just like it. Now that is not to say they been a pain as in working on. That is because knuckle heads prob used them prior and now issue after issue. I learned alot of time can be wasted in these blowers. A pain to strip down and better pay attention how all goes like that throttle spring under handle lol. I robbed peter to pay paul on a few. Rest is parts but 3 I just put to side long ago. In that 1 you pull the cord and it is so sloppy and no pull back ( ? compression, junk it? ). Other one I just can't get started after carb clean many times and rebuild in parts. I have not checked the ring. Truth be told I never did on any of them. I always thought one needed some tool or something and skill before messing with a ring. I see maybe not in vid as you got all right on and back in without tool. I will say I find the blowers have mood swings. They can run great one day and next darn thing won't start. I use my Craftsman just like that Poulan I rebuilt carb on and it fusses some but few years and still goes. Course I use 90 no eth and Stihl oil. What I can't oddly still get is a part number on that Poulan carb. I searched high and low and asked around. What is the carb part number? Good vid.... Yes, I seen a few where the bolts for engine block get play and back out. I recall right on that Poulan I think one bolt is a pain to get at. Thread locker or JB weld.
My ring does not have rectangular cross section. One side is chamfered toward the outer edge. I assumed that was to make it easer to get back int the cylinder. But that could lead to a compression leak. I could not see if that was how you oriented the ring in your video even with it slowed down. BTW your videos and commentary are superb and I really appreciate your reply to my comment.
Just had to fix one that my smart brother gave to me. It was very hard to start and once started the revs were inconsistent even when warmed up. Checked the ring and it had some build up but not enough to make it stuck. The culprit was one of the 2 screws that holds top of the engine to the bottom, it was loose, after cleaning and reassembly you could feel just by pulling rope that it had more resistance to it and it started right away and run like new.
I have 2 Husqvarna 125b blowers. Same problem. The ring sticks, compression drops, won't start. You need 90 psi min. First time I replaced piston and ring. Second time pulled spark plug, Put piston at top and filled with Marvel Mystery oil. It soaked through after a few hours and filled again. Ring is free again and it runs! Going to add MMO to all my gas at 2 oz to 5 gallons in addition to 2 stroke oil and see if it stops the ring sticking.
Thank you for this video. I have a Poulan SM400 blower, and it's very oily and dirty. I noticed you cleaned it and easily used water to wash it. 0:50 Can I also use water? I wanted to try, but I'm concerned about damaging the carburetor, engine, or something similar.
I’m pretty sure you can make this repair without disassembly, by pouring neat gas in to the cylinder whilst at tdc through the sparkplug hole & letting it sit for a while. As a side note, i run all my equipment on pump gas which is 10% ethanol & a cheap 2S oil, never have any problems but i do always purge the fuel out when i’m not planning on using them within a week or more. My oldest unbranded & well used blower is now 5 years old & i have just fixed a poor starting issue by stripping, cleaning & rebuilding the carburettor with new gaskets a new metering diaphragm, i don’t think the old diaphragm was bad though, i just had a new one to hand.
Compression on a 2-cycle is more critical than a 4-cycle. There's no way to change it externally except with a compression release (relief) on some engines. When it fires and goes down, not only is it exhausting out the exhaust port, its taking in through through the slots in the cylinder on the way up. When that piston ring passes the slots until it tops out in the cylinder, that's all the compression its going to get. Crazy how the compression can get that high, but it takes a lot of cycles to do it.
Yes I do believe that the stuck ring caused the engine not to start,I am glad that I rekitted a Stihl hedge trimmer with a new cylinder kit when I couldn't get the reading above 75 PSI although it also had a shot ignition coil. The reading was then 105 PSI then 120 PSI once the engine was run in. It's unless it's like my L headed Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower where it has a 6:1 compression ratio & they recommend giving it a cylinder leak down test because a compression test won't give a true reading that I will perform a compression test. As far as using threadlocker on the cylinder bolts,the Stihl hedge trimmer engine had self tapping screws fitted so I had to tap them out oversized & fit bigger screws in the new aftermarket cylinder kit because they wouldn't fit & they strip out at the best of times once undone & even with the original parts !
It was probably was hard to start before this, but the owner didn't know the signs of a stuck ring. Nice repair and thanks for teaching us how you diagnosed it. Did you tell him/her to ease up on the oil in the mix?
there is a link in this video's description going back to the part 1 of this story. but when I watched the part 1 of the story I checked its description for a link to part 2. I guess I might not be able to expect that kind of future proofing because the part 2 video hadn't been released yet but wouldn't old video descriptions be editable after the fact? either way I'm glad that my TH-cam feed eventually recommended this video because I was curious about the follow up but I just wanted to let you know
The problem with the stuck ring isn't so much the lack of compression but the failure of the piston to create a vacuum in the crankcase on the upstroke to draw the air/fuel mixture in through the carburetor.
@@HomeGaragechannel finally got to look at it and likely has the same issue or possibly worse. compression test only showed 40psi even tho the cylinder doesn't look too bad inside. not sure i will bother fixing it despite it looking in very good shape. really doesn't seem like it will be worth fixing if it is a common issue.
hmm.. it's a smart move. They want to focus on all the other things they've got going on, which is a lot, and let the cheap overseas "stuff" flood our market. it makes sense to me.
would you be ablle to tell us what cleaner you use to clean your tools and engines? i use simply green but it doesnt seem to do as good of a job as in your videos
sure, and yes simple green is good, but it's not has good as the Degreaser I'm using, from harbor freight. It's the best stuff, I've every used at least, up to this point. Thank you Henry's Small Engine Repair.
Hey love ur vids!! I have a poulan pro leaf blower like vid. But with one carbarator it stay running without holding throttle. Bought another new one and doesn't stay running unless holding down throttle. And I have Tryed to adjust the carbarator. Any thoughts please? Thanks
Sure the ring is believable, along with planned obsolescence! The outfit ai was working for doing lawn maintenance had got a new batch of Snapper walk mowers but with Tecumseh 2-cycle engines. None would run right the 2nd season where the Briggs I/C 2-cycles lasted for years. The compression in the Tecumseh's was GONE! Can't remember if it was a fix of new mowers or just ew mowers with good engines. You did GOOD and Blessings!
@@HomeGaragechannel These mowers were run as in commercially. The Briggs with the cast iron sleeve and Stihl oil could take it. everything was walk mowed. The Tecumseh mowers were fed the same mix of Stihl oil but just couldn't take the constant running. I mowed one yard by myself every 2 weeks that took 7 1/2 hours of steady walking except to fill up with gas and eat. That takes a toll.
Hello, I have 2 questions and my questions are how do you know how much compression an engine is supposed to produce based of a PSI reading? And How can you tell from a PSI reading if the engine condition is good or bad?
as a general rule, for all small engines like this one, I would like to see a reading well over 135 PSI, and as for the second question, I'd say it was based on all the testing I've done, when I've tested them and they were "lower" 135, it just means it has some wear based on what I've seen. 135 and up, the rings and cylinder looked good, when they weren't the number was less, and when the rings and cylinder were scored, they reading was terribly low, say, 80 PSI.
no, you just have to let the engine "cool down" before you turn it off. Also don't let the engine idle make sure that you have it running at full speed, after it warms up.
Hi I have a cub cadet that always started fine until last day it stopped working as I’m using it and wouldn’t start I don’t have the fancy gadget that u have checked the spark plug and also started without prime it cus j think it’s fluded the only thing I notice is a gas smell in my garage any tips I can send u pic thanks
Any idea if the spark arrestor screen on these particular blowers can be cleaned? I had the muffler off of mine today, and it looks like it is welded together and can't be taken apart to do so. Would like to take a look at the screen and clean it if needed, as it hasn't been done in the almost 10 years since I got it.
I put a new carb on mine and it ran fine. Then the next week i tried to start it and nothing. I have spark, fuel, and compression but it's doing the same as the first video. I tried putting fuel in the cylinder and tried starting fluid and it doesn't even try to start. I didn't measure how much compression i have but i suspect maybe it's low. I took the muffler off and the piston doesn't look scored. The cylinder is bolted tight. The spark arrester isn't blocked. I was running out of ideas. Maybe it's the ring sticking just like this video.
from your description, I'm thinking that the engine is flooded with fuel. You can have all the compression and spark you want, but if it's flooded, it won't do anything at all. Try "un-Flooding" the engine and see what happens.
@@HomeGaragechannel sorry for my inaccurate question HG. I should have said where to position the gap in the ring around the circumference of the piston if there isn’t a mark on the piston. I have seen several opinions including “it doesn’t matter, opposite either connecting rod pin, to in line with the exhaust port”.
generally I have seen rings stuck more from sitting for long periods of time. The oil gas mix turned to goo over time and glues the ring back so the compression is lower than normal. Taking the exaust off and checking the cylinder for damage usually tells me if the engine is worth fixing or not. a clean cylinder and stuck ring seldom happends for me. Usually the cylinder is badly damaged. I use recreational fuel in all my equipment.
Is it possible to install the piston ring upside down? I could not get the piston back in until I turned the ring over so the side with a chamfer was on top then it slipped in. But now the compression is only 90 psi. Do I need to turn the ring over and try to get it into the cylinder?
@@HomeGaragechannel I got mine free used it once and acting like it's running really rich, I prime it with fuel disconnect the fuel line and runs ok ish but when you put the line back in it kills it immediately 5 seconds after
I bet they adjusted the idle screw when it started to run inefficiently and slowing down / bogging down doe to the piston ring getting stuck and the increased idle allowed unburned fuel and oil the sit in the combustion chamber making the oil in the cylinder to get thick and sticky and when it ran it burned the fuel but didn't get rid of the thick oil not all of it and made it worse that's my guess, only way to know for sure is to take the fuel that they used and pure some in a container that is open to the air but safe from water and let it sit for a while to see if it becomes sticky and oily / thickens like a syrup if so then the fuel most likely get left in the cylinder and didn't burn but the fuel evaporated and left the oil behind and it burned partially turning it black and sticky
@@HomeGaragechannel yes I am guilty of doing the same thing but nowadays I try to fix the issues causing the problem unless I am in a hurry and don't have time then it may get postponed until a later date but I'm sure most of us have done similar things in the past also I just want to say a little knowledge about things such as this goes a long way and helps others understand why , how , where and sometimes gives them the confidence to repair their own equipment keep up the great videos and interactions with your viewers 👍
People that say put in a new carburetor, ignition coil, etc. are parts changers. They don't diagnose equipment, they fire the parts cannon until it is fixed.
If I had to come up with a theory, I’d say the day prior, the engine was good and hot. User probably ran it all day and it was fine. The carbon and oil probably mixed good, and overnight it cooled off. Causing the oil/carbon mix to get gummy and solidify. Thus the ring got stuck. But I tend to overthink things.
I have a poulan pro blower i start it cold but after its been running its so hard to get back started most the time i have let it set a while i ajusted the carb new gas cap checked exaust not cloged but when it runs its strong ???kinda stumped ty
@@HomeGaragechannel I definitely understand that man that thing was alot of work and time glad you got it going thank you for all the new videos I also just got done watching the one on the populan chainsaw
Clearly the stuck ring did impact compression. I think to say that it was unable to draw enough air/fuel to get the engine to start may be plausible, however you did put fuel straight into the spark plug hole, so if anything the only thing it wouldn't have been able to draw in that it needed would be air. Did the stuck piston ring actually stop it from sucking in air, I honestly don't know. In my opinion, I think this engine really does just require more compression in order to burn the fuel. As for the sudden failure, given that their oil/fuel mixture is a bit rich in oil, it's quite possible that the last run was just enough to finish seizing the ring. Also, once it was running the ring probably expanded a bit as it heated up, allowing the engine to maintain enough compression to just about stay running when they used it, but once the engine cooled, the ring would have shrank back down and no longer been able to build enough compression to run again. I've heard of this problem being able to happen with nitro engines for RC trucks. They don't even have rings, just relies on the fitment between the piston and sleeve to build compression. If your engine gets too hot, the piston will expand enough to enlarge the sleeve, but once it cools the piston and sleeve are too loose to create enough compression to start. Heat it up enough, it may be able to start again, but the engine would have to be running way too hot, and essentially it'll ruin the engine. And again, not knowing how it ran last time they used it, may have been running poorly. Could have had low compression causing the engine to have lazy performance, but if the owner isn't mechanically inclined or familiar with engines, they probably wouldn't have even noticed how poorly it was really running. They'll probably be amazed how smooth and powerful it is when you give it back.
i have this blower and the newer style of poulan pro blower that is black and both of them will start up just fine and rev up good but when i release the throttle even when the engine has warmed up they both shut off about 5 seconds after i release the throttle and they just started doing this. i dont know why because the week before they both ran and idled great. do you have any suggestions?
@@HomeGaragechannel i have replaced the ignition coil and piston ring on one of the 2 blowers about a year ago but i think there is a carberator problem. i usually run seafoam through every tank of gas so thats very suprising that it will start but it wont idle
I have the same blower, however my issue is that it cuts out whenever you try to give it gas. I put new carb on it, new gas lines, gas filter. Blower starts easily but when given gas it stalls out. Any suggestions 🤔
I believe your idea of the stuck ring is spot on. Freeing up the ring also increased the compression by a bit more that two fold. I never thought of that being a problem. But will tuck that away in my top pocket. Thanks for the videos.
thank you D Butler, I appreciate your time.
@@HomeGaragechannel Hi there , my primer bulb is sponge and hard to pump, what should I do? Also I sprayed starting fluid and still engine is not starting. My engine is 25cc craftsman leaf blower. I see spark, compression is 75 psi , still not starting
Seeing that the idle screw was all the way in is a sign that the blower has been having problems for a while. Great job getting it running again.
yes you are correct
I’m learning more and more by watching your videos. I would’ve stopped after checking everything you did and given it back to the owner. Thanks for sharing the information.
thank you wapd205 I appreciate it.
Nice diagnosis. I'm just learning about small engines a little bit, so this stuff is news to me. I had recently fixed (about 3 months ago) my old gas string trimmer which I had not used in about 30 years. The worst part was just a crumbled fuel line which was a shock to me, but then it made sense since it was made of rubber & it's been 3 decades. Also replaced spark plug which I should not have had to, but the old plug rolled off the desk & broke in 2 on the ground, heh. Imagine that, a 30-year old spark plug was just minding its own business in a trimmer just sitting in the garage unused for 30 years & then some idiot human took it out & boom, it breaks after hibernating for 3 decades, heh. My trimmer is humming along nicely & I can now use it, especially when my electric trimmer is having issues with the line auto-feed mechanism.
thank you for sharing your experience Rob webnoid
Wow that’s a big improvement to the Compression...
Interesting story and my first stuck ring on video or live😊
thanks, and yes the improvement was extremely impressive, thank you Rick Thelian.
Great video. I have learned so much that I have purchased a 16 year old Troy Bilt mower to try my hand at small engine repairs. Thanks again for the indepth videos.
no problem Rick Nicholson, and good luck.
Glad to see your success with this blower. I have one on the shelf of that same brand that probably needs the same treatment. Glad you went the full measure on diagnosing this one and showed the disassembly too.
no problem and thank you Joseph Fields
I have the same blower. 2 years ago the piston ring was stuck and I did this same fix. It's been working great ever since.
nice work
I work in a small engine repair shop, and we use Echo Red armor with good results in cleaning carbon buildup. Running one tank full through an engine makes a big difference..
really? is that something that's written in their claims? I'll have to take a look into it, thank you Ted Stankunas.
You never cease to amaze me great job getting that going. I'm so glad I'm subbed to your channel. The amount I've learned a ton from you. Thank you
Thank you Gary Allen, I really appreciate the time you give to this channel and all the comments. It means a lot to me.
@@HomeGaragechannel Your very welcome!! Im so grateful you take the time to upload your knowledge for us. Like I said before, you explain everything perfectly. I've learned so much about Small engines from you. I just wish there was more I could do to show my appreciation.
just keep watch, that's all I ask.
How much compression the engine needs to start is dependant on how big the engine is, if 2 differently sized engines have the same size leak in pressure, the one with the bigger displacement has more air that needs to be leaked over the same period of time, so it can run on lower compression levels.
very well said!
I have the same blower I have not baby it used ethanol fuel nor have I ever drained the fuel during winter in Utah and yet it has served me well for over 11 years now runs like a champ! cheers great repair!
nice and thank you !
Thank you for this series of videos. It helps me to troubleshoot my leaf blower problems.
Glad to help
👍Good job. I’ve NEVER seen this manufacturer start this easy. NEVER! 💩
thank you Major Payne
"They'd never be that greedy."
Sarcasm detected! 😂
in fact, the Sarcasm meter is pegged out, on this one. thank you Nelson Brum.
I honestly believe those blowers were made to replace about each year or two. I've had a couple and never fails, they stop working after a season or two. However, I bought a Stihl blower (a few dollars more) and I have been using that for at least six years without and problems... Guaranteed it starts and never have to worry about it working!
wow that says a lot, thank you Gary Mucher.
It's amazing as to how much I learn from your vedios,."Thanks", your knowledge is much appreciated!
no problem and thank you James A Zahn.
Gotta love it! Now your family member can go back to annoying their neighbors every Saturday morning Oct-Nov. :D
that's the plan.
Thanks to this video I was able to take apart my poulan blower and the piston ring was also stuck, unfortunately it broke trying to get it off so I have 2 new ones coming , hopefully after installing that and changing out the gas lines as they were corroding it’ll work fingers crossed! Great videos I’m addicted! If you have a email I could send a question to I’d appreciate it as I’d be able to send a picture of what I’m talking about on another project I’m working on, thanks again for the awesome videos
no problem and yes, it's homegargemail@gmail.com
That blower looks like a Homelite, and Craftsman they are most likely manufactured by the same manufacturer for all three. Thanks for your excellent tutorial.
Thanks for the info!
That’s exactly what my blower is doing. Thank you
no problem
Great blower and fantastic repair. I believe that the stuck piston ring caused too low compression and this combined with poor air and fuel flow caused this blower not to run.
You are correct
I have the same leaf blower and was having trouble with it running. All I did was change all the fuel lines. Fuel filter and put a after market carburetor from Ebay for $13.00 and adjust the it a little. Starts great and runs really well.
nice work
It sounds good now ! Yes carbon build up on the piston over time then one day you run it hard shut it down and as the piston cools off the ring gets stuck , it does happen more than you would think , great job on your repair work !
nice I like the explanation!
Awesome repair IHG! I commend you on finding the issue and fixing it. I ROFL'ed at you saying "this blower is lucky to be $50 on a good day in November!"
I'll try to remember that one!
thank you Jacob Feather, I'm glad you got the reference
Great job.
Thank you Denis Conor
This actually helped me to find out, that my Stihl that my dad left behind had 50psi of compression. It was over before it even began. 😮😅
sorry to hear that
I have Poulan leaf blower to, was built in 2007 I just changed the carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter, and air filter. I started it right up, no problems, I did make small adjustments to the carburetor.
The fuel lines had broke, years ago. And it sat for at least 9 or 10 years. It cost me less than $20 to fix, and I can sell it for around $50-$60 . I can use it as well.
nice, these do have some value in them, thank you Bert Grau!
I bought a blower like this except it's a craftsman for 20 bucks and it just needed the idle screw adjusted. I think it's pretty reliable and a good replacement for my homelite tank.
nice, thank you for sharing that
That’s just what mine is doing, I guess I’m going to try to do exactly what you did!😊
hope it works
Very good diagnostic on this blower here
thanks I appreciate that.
@@HomeGaragechannel your welcome
First time my cylinder bolts backed out it sounded like a crotch rocket. Second time I put the thread locker on that the factory forgot. It is a flaw, you are correct.
thank you J G.
Well done!
Thank you Jim.
I have also had a two cycle engine that had one seized ring the other wasn't. my model had two piston rings. i had to put my drill on it to get it to fire. Good video!
wow, nice, thank you Mike Jones.
Looks like you saved them alot of money.
quite possible, I would have suggested in buying a good used blower instead, like an echo or stihl.
@@HomeGaragechannel I have a 4 stroke craftsman back pack blower I got for cheap any thoughts?
sure, I would check the valve lash because it's recommended it be checked once in awhile
Nice job! ..I was right on how many pulls to fire it up. a buddy has that same blower
thank you Ron0963.
Obviously the stuck ring was the issue. Another one saved 👍👍👍 I also really like the idea of the extra hole in the exhaust. You actually could make it match the original outlet if you wanted to without issue. The extra flow helps get rid of heat from the engine, and as long as you adjust the carb to compensate for the extra flow it will be fine. That stick ring was definitely from too oil by the looks of what was in the tank, if the blower wasn't run much up at full operating temperature, it would have a hard time burning the excessive oil off. Also if the exhaust was a little plugged up with carbon like you thought it would be running richer than normal, making the problem worse. Great repair as always 👍👍👍👍
thank you patthesoundguy.
from my view in this case mostly yes and of course i find keeping it good clean shape and of course doing some of the normal tasks will keep something like this running good and top notch too etc.
you are correct, thank you Patrick Stapleton.
@@HomeGaragechannel for sure mate i keep mine clean and in good condition and doing yearly basics from replacement parts including fuel filter and fuel line changing and even the spark plugs and whatever it needs and it,s a dead easy one to start for me and i keep my repair bills down as best as possible unless it was out of my skills etc.
Great video, I believe the stuck ring was the reason it wouldn't run, 2 strokes won't run if they're low on compression. They probably either used a cheap low quality oil in the gas or they added too much oil causing the piston ring to become carboned up and stuck.
thank you WildeFox, I also believe the quality of the oil and gasoline, has a huge impact.
Success 🙌 🥇 amazing work
thank you Revelation Homestead.
Excellent Job there boss!! You did the right thing by taking it apart and rebuild it!! Sometimes a rich mixture of too much oil in the gas will cause it to burn rich making carbon disposits will gunk up engine internally!! Will also Sometimes score cylinderwall s and stuck rings on piston...
thank you JJ Juarez!
@@HomeGaragechannel my pleasure anytime!! Keep on keeping on
I will
Great video 👍🙏👍🙏
Thank you RayFpv.
It could be that as the carbon was building up, the ring, piston, and all were hot, and so, everything was fitting perfectly as it ran, and as it cooled down, it shrank, pulling the seals away from the walls, making a massive gap. Also I think you're right about the lack of fuel draw.
oh you make a good point!
. . . Along with a fill up of too oil rich fuel in cold engine. Great video
Yes I think stuck ring was the cause. I’ve had two units with a similar problem. Poulenc pro ran like crazy then the next day wouldn’t start. Turned out one of the cheaply designed engine 2 screw cylinder bolts snapped. Sad when the only use 2 bolts to secure the the cylinder to the block. Tried drilling it out with no luck so it’s junk. Bought a Echo 2620 with 4 bolts and bearings on both sides of the crank. Not that much more$ but it’s a pro model and should last. The other unit was a craftsman, turned out ignition module too far from flywheel, regapped and starts with 1 or 2 pulled every time.
you definitely made a good choice, in buying the echo, thank you Paul Konczak.
It’d probably be best to use the premixed engineered fuel for this thing since it tends to not produce as much carbon. Unless you are daring enough to run 60:1 in this thing.
yes you are correct, the engineered fuel would make a lot less carbon.
Good one man as always
Thank you again
Cheap fix just replace the rings and off you go , there out to make money like ever thing else. Good vid as usual , thx
thank you Gil Picard.
Agree these are good blowers vs some garbage blowers now. That is, when they work lol. I worked mowing lawns for years long ago with a 85 year old man. He had a Craftsman same style and look as the Poulan. Said he brought it new long ago. Put nothing but no eth gas in it and Stihl oil. What I do know is it ran without a issue and still does. At the time I wanted one and had no blower. Course they are old and finding one is a hit and miss. Speed up to some years and I seen the Poulan on market place for 20 bucks. Brought it and of course carb issue. I must of been inside that blower and carb dozen times. Got it to run and still does, but prob needs new carb. Then out the blue I seen them and the black older Craftsman blowers that look like yours in vid. Story is, now I have about a dozen Poulan yellow and 5 so Craftsman just like it. Now that is not to say they been a pain as in working on. That is because knuckle heads prob used them prior and now issue after issue. I learned alot of time can be wasted in these blowers. A pain to strip down and better pay attention how all goes like that throttle spring under handle lol. I robbed peter to pay paul on a few. Rest is parts but 3 I just put to side long ago. In that 1 you pull the cord and it is so sloppy and no pull back ( ? compression, junk it? ). Other one I just can't get started after carb clean many times and rebuild in parts. I have not checked the ring. Truth be told I never did on any of them. I always thought one needed some tool or something and skill before messing with a ring. I see maybe not in vid as you got all right on and back in without tool. I will say I find the blowers have mood swings. They can run great one day and next darn thing won't start. I use my Craftsman just like that Poulan I rebuilt carb on and it fusses some but few years and still goes. Course I use 90 no eth and Stihl oil. What I can't oddly still get is a part number on that Poulan carb. I searched high and low and asked around. What is the carb part number? Good vid.... Yes, I seen a few where the bolts for engine block get play and back out. I recall right on that Poulan I think one bolt is a pain to get at. Thread locker or JB weld.
yes you are correct, these blowers have moods and sometimes it a no go, with them.
Super good video and good job 👍👍🤠
thank you Lobo Robertson.
My ring does not have rectangular cross section. One side is chamfered toward the outer edge. I assumed that was to make it easer to get back int the cylinder. But that could lead to a compression leak. I could not see if that was how you oriented the ring in your video even with it slowed down. BTW your videos and commentary are superb and I really appreciate your reply to my comment.
thanks, and I'm using the chamfered end of the ring to align the ring. There's no chamfered edge on the ring I re-used.
Just had to fix one that my smart brother gave to me. It was very hard to start and once started the revs were inconsistent even when warmed up. Checked the ring and it had some build up but not enough to make it stuck. The culprit was one of the 2 screws that holds top of the engine to the bottom, it was loose, after cleaning and reassembly you could feel just by pulling rope that it had more resistance to it and it started right away and run like new.
very nice work!!
That piston was gummed up almost as bad as the transfer pump I was telling you about. Wow!
wow that bad? dang.
I have 2 Husqvarna 125b blowers. Same problem. The ring sticks, compression drops, won't start. You need 90 psi min. First time I replaced piston and ring. Second time pulled spark plug, Put piston at top and filled with Marvel Mystery oil. It soaked through after a few hours and filled again. Ring is free again and it runs! Going to add MMO to all my gas at 2 oz to 5 gallons in addition to 2 stroke oil and see if it stops the ring sticking.
I think that's a good idea
Thank you for this video. I have a Poulan SM400 blower, and it's very oily and dirty. I noticed you cleaned it and easily used water to wash it. 0:50 Can I also use water? I wanted to try, but I'm concerned about damaging the carburetor, engine, or something similar.
yes you can, just so long as you keep from spraying directly into the carb, or muffler
I’m pretty sure you can make this repair without disassembly, by pouring neat gas in to the cylinder whilst at tdc through the sparkplug hole & letting it sit for a while.
As a side note, i run all my equipment on pump gas which is 10% ethanol & a cheap 2S oil, never have any problems but i do always purge the fuel out when i’m not planning on using them within a week or more.
My oldest unbranded & well used blower is now 5 years old & i have just fixed a poor starting issue by stripping, cleaning & rebuilding the carburettor with new gaskets a new metering diaphragm, i don’t think the old diaphragm was bad though, i just had a new one to hand.
thanks
Wow! Love your channel.
thanks I appreciate that.
Compression on a 2-cycle is more critical than a 4-cycle. There's no way to change it externally except with a compression release (relief) on some engines. When it fires and goes down, not only is it exhausting out the exhaust port, its taking in through through the slots in the cylinder on the way up. When that piston ring passes the slots until it tops out in the cylinder, that's all the compression its going to get. Crazy how the compression can get that high, but it takes a lot of cycles to do it.
thank you TargaWheels for the information
It sure does sound believable to me. You just proved it.
thank you William Snow
5:13 Imagine the blower had 300 psi
Yes I do believe that the stuck ring caused the engine not to start,I am glad that I rekitted a Stihl hedge trimmer with a new cylinder kit when I couldn't get the reading above 75 PSI although it also had a shot ignition coil.
The reading was then 105 PSI then 120 PSI once the engine was run in.
It's unless it's like my L headed Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower where it has a 6:1 compression ratio & they recommend giving it a cylinder leak down test because a compression test won't give a true reading that I will perform a compression test.
As far as using threadlocker on the cylinder bolts,the Stihl hedge trimmer engine had self tapping screws fitted so I had to tap them out oversized & fit bigger screws in the new aftermarket cylinder kit because they wouldn't fit & they strip out at the best of times once undone & even with the original parts !
yes you are correct about the leak down test. Thank you Russell Booth.
It was probably was hard to start before this, but the owner didn't know the signs of a stuck ring. Nice repair and thanks for teaching us how you diagnosed it. Did you tell him/her to ease up on the oil in the mix?
It wouldn't do any good. don't worry, I probably see it again next year for a different problem
@@HomeGaragechannel That’s true. Lol
Excellent You were spot on about the stuck ring!
What is Your go to Or favorite Mixing oil brand?
thanks, and I don't have a favorite, just the cheapest one on the shelf.
Could the stuck ring been the result of not running the engine wide open?
I’ve heard 2 strokes were made to run wide open.
there's a good possibility , but without watching them use it, it's only a guess.
Hey great vids wondering whats that spray you use to clean the engines seems to work great on removing the grime and oil
thanks, I use a degreaser from Harbor Freight
there is a link in this video's description going back to the part 1 of this story. but when I watched the part 1 of the story I checked its description for a link to part 2. I guess I might not be able to expect that kind of future proofing because the part 2 video hadn't been released yet but wouldn't old video descriptions be editable after the fact? either way I'm glad that my TH-cam feed eventually recommended this video because I was curious about the follow up but I just wanted to let you know
thanks for letting me know, I'll take a look.
The problem with the stuck ring isn't so much the lack of compression but the failure of the piston to create a vacuum in the crankcase on the upstroke to draw the air/fuel mixture in through the carburetor.
yes you are correct!
had someone give me one of these today. hopefully it is not that much of a pain to get running.
good luck to you
@@HomeGaragechannel finally got to look at it and likely has the same issue or possibly worse. compression test only showed 40psi even tho the cylinder doesn't look too bad inside. not sure i will bother fixing it despite it looking in very good shape. really doesn't seem like it will be worth fixing if it is a common issue.
Just a thought here from a shop tech. Primary vs secondary compression. Hard to expain. Easier to google.
thank you Kyle C.
The.proper oil to gas mixture is the most important thing to do
you are correct.
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah buddy 😎👍
Hey HG, what are your thoughts on Honda exiting the lawn mower market and discontinuing the production of lawn mowers by 2023
hmm.. it's a smart move. They want to focus on all the other things they've got going on, which is a lot, and let the cheap overseas "stuff" flood our market. it makes sense to me.
would you be ablle to tell us what cleaner you use to clean your tools and engines?
i use simply green but it doesnt seem to do as good of a job as in your videos
sure, and yes simple green is good, but it's not has good as the Degreaser I'm using, from harbor freight. It's the best stuff, I've every used at least, up to this point. Thank you Henry's Small Engine Repair.
Nice job!!!!!
Thanks!
I see a link to the chemical bottle, but what is the magic cleaner you use that works so well?
oh it's a degreaser from Harbor Freight
You are correct
Thank you The Dronz Dr.
Hey love ur vids!! I have a poulan pro leaf blower like vid. But with one carbarator it stay running without holding throttle. Bought another new one and doesn't stay running unless holding down throttle. And I have Tryed to adjust the carbarator.
Any thoughts please?
Thanks
when you say adjusting the carb, were you turning the fuel adjustment screws are the idle set screw?
Sure the ring is believable, along with planned obsolescence! The outfit ai was working for doing lawn maintenance had got a new batch of Snapper walk mowers but with Tecumseh 2-cycle engines. None would run right the 2nd season where the Briggs I/C 2-cycles lasted for years. The compression in the Tecumseh's was GONE! Can't remember if it was a fix of new mowers or just ew mowers with good engines. You did GOOD and Blessings!
wow, the difference between the engines is quite amazing. I wonder what happened to it?
@@HomeGaragechannel These mowers were run as in commercially. The Briggs with the cast iron sleeve and Stihl oil could take it. everything was walk mowed. The Tecumseh mowers were fed the same mix of Stihl oil but just couldn't take the constant running. I mowed one yard by myself every 2 weeks that took 7 1/2 hours of steady walking except to fill up with gas and eat. That takes a toll.
thank you, for the information
@@HomeGaragechannel I try. All I can say anything about is what these old bloodshot eyeballs have been in the middle of.
Hello, I have 2 questions and my questions are how do you know how much compression an engine is supposed to produce based of a PSI reading? And How can you tell from a PSI reading if the engine condition is good or bad?
as a general rule, for all small engines like this one, I would like to see a reading well over 135 PSI, and as for the second question, I'd say it was based on all the testing I've done, when I've tested them and they were "lower" 135, it just means it has some wear based on what I've seen. 135 and up, the rings and cylinder looked good, when they weren't the number was less, and when the rings and cylinder were scored, they reading was terribly low, say, 80 PSI.
Are there any solvents or fuel treatments to keep the ring floating and un seized ? I use enthanol free gas synthetic 2 stroke oil. Thanks.
no, you just have to let the engine "cool down" before you turn it off. Also don't let the engine idle make sure that you have it running at full speed, after it warms up.
Hi I have a cub cadet that always started fine until last day it stopped working as I’m using it and wouldn’t start I don’t have the fancy gadget that u have checked the spark plug and also started without prime it cus j think it’s fluded the only thing I notice is a gas smell in my garage any tips I can send u pic thanks
sorry not enough information for me to help
I got my 2 cycle manual over 20 years ago it said for any 2cycle engine to run right it needed 90lbs. compression are better to run right.
nice, thank you for finding that information
Any idea if the spark arrestor screen on these particular blowers can be cleaned? I had the muffler off of mine today, and it looks like it is welded together and can't be taken apart to do so. Would like to take a look at the screen and clean it if needed, as it hasn't been done in the almost 10 years since I got it.
no the screens in these cannot be easily serviced, you'd have to put the muffler into a fire pit
@@HomeGaragechannel Thanks for your help.
I put a new carb on mine and it ran fine. Then the next week i tried to start it and nothing. I have spark, fuel, and compression but it's doing the same as the first video. I tried putting fuel in the cylinder and tried starting fluid and it doesn't even try to start. I didn't measure how much compression i have but i suspect maybe it's low. I took the muffler off and the piston doesn't look scored. The cylinder is bolted tight. The spark arrester isn't blocked. I was running out of ideas. Maybe it's the ring sticking just like this video.
from your description, I'm thinking that the engine is flooded with fuel. You can have all the compression and spark you want, but if it's flooded, it won't do anything at all.
Try "un-Flooding" the engine and see what happens.
Where do you set the ring gap when you don’t have a mark on the piston?
easy, we don't set the ring gap, at least not on this particular engine. there's only a pin, that locates the ring, to the piston
@@HomeGaragechannel sorry for my inaccurate question HG. I should have said where to position the gap in the ring around the circumference of the piston if there isn’t a mark on the piston. I have seen several opinions including “it doesn’t matter, opposite either connecting rod pin, to in line with the exhaust port”.
generally I have seen rings stuck more from sitting for long periods of time. The oil gas mix turned to goo over time and glues the ring back so the compression is lower than normal. Taking the exaust off and checking the cylinder for damage usually tells me if the engine is worth fixing or not. a clean cylinder and stuck ring seldom happends for me. Usually the cylinder is badly damaged. I use recreational fuel in all my equipment.
nice I wonder if I can get that fuel here.
Is it possible to install the piston ring upside down? I could not get the piston back in until I turned the ring over so the side with a chamfer was on top then it slipped in. But now the compression is only 90 psi. Do I need to turn the ring over and try to get it into the cylinder?
on this piston , you the ring can only go one way as shown in the video. Did you install it like the way it was shown?
Yep definitely the issue with mine lol same exact one
it happens a lot
@@HomeGaragechannel I got mine free used it once and acting like it's running really rich, I prime it with fuel disconnect the fuel line and runs ok ish but when you put the line back in it kills it immediately 5 seconds after
interesting, does the purge bulb cycle fuel?
@@HomeGaragechannel yea, carb is in excellent condition, primer bulb cycles, picks up, and returns
okay, would consider adjusting the carb, or replace it.
The B&S J19 plug is too hot. CJ6 is what it needs. Could this have been your problem?
no that wasn't the problem.
Had the same thing happen to mine Poulan BVM200
thanks
I have one question. What is the method that you used to clean ring and Piston. this? I did not see in the video.
mechanical removal, using scotch brite pad, and razor blade and a bit of brake clean helps out too.
I find that oven cleaner does a nice job
Do trimmers have to use a special grees or any type of grees
for which part?
@@HomeGaragechannel the gear head
I bet they adjusted the idle screw when it started to run inefficiently and slowing down / bogging down doe to the piston ring getting stuck and the increased idle allowed unburned fuel and oil the sit in the combustion chamber making the oil in the cylinder to get thick and sticky and when it ran it burned the fuel but didn't get rid of the thick oil not all of it and made it worse that's my guess, only way to know for sure is to take the fuel that they used and pure some in a container that is open to the air but safe from water and let it sit for a while to see if it becomes sticky and oily / thickens like a syrup if so then the fuel most likely get left in the cylinder and didn't burn but the fuel evaporated and left the oil behind and it burned partially turning it black and sticky
yes you are correct, most often, someone will make that adjustment to deal with issues they're having. It's very telling.
@@HomeGaragechannel yes I am guilty of doing the same thing but nowadays I try to fix the issues causing the problem unless I am in a hurry and don't have time then it may get postponed until a later date but I'm sure most of us have done similar things in the past also I just want to say a little knowledge about things such as this goes a long way and helps others understand why , how , where and sometimes gives them the confidence to repair their own equipment keep up the great videos and interactions with your viewers 👍
People that say put in a new carburetor, ignition coil, etc. are parts changers. They don't diagnose equipment, they fire the parts cannon until it is fixed.
you are correct!
If I had to come up with a theory, I’d say the day prior, the engine was good and hot. User probably ran it all day and it was fine. The carbon and oil probably mixed good, and overnight it cooled off. Causing the oil/carbon mix to get gummy and solidify. Thus the ring got stuck. But I tend to overthink things.
you might be on to something,.
I have a poulan pro blower i start it cold but after its been running its so hard to get back started most the time i have let it set a while i ajusted the carb new gas cap checked exaust not cloged but when it runs its strong ???kinda stumped ty
I would consider replacing the carb.
I might be wrong but it looked like some carbon was built up in the exhaust port I was just wondering
yes you were correct, I didn't clean it, but to be honest, it wasn't that bad.
@@HomeGaragechannel I definitely understand that man that thing was alot of work and time glad you got it going thank you for all the new videos I also just got done watching the one on the populan chainsaw
Drilling the hole in the muffler is giving it a performance mod. That should add 5-10 horsepower!
thank you Daniel Padgett, I appreciate it!
lol.. I've got a few "racing" sticker, I can put on it too.
Clearly the stuck ring did impact compression. I think to say that it was unable to draw enough air/fuel to get the engine to start may be plausible, however you did put fuel straight into the spark plug hole, so if anything the only thing it wouldn't have been able to draw in that it needed would be air. Did the stuck piston ring actually stop it from sucking in air, I honestly don't know. In my opinion, I think this engine really does just require more compression in order to burn the fuel.
As for the sudden failure, given that their oil/fuel mixture is a bit rich in oil, it's quite possible that the last run was just enough to finish seizing the ring. Also, once it was running the ring probably expanded a bit as it heated up, allowing the engine to maintain enough compression to just about stay running when they used it, but once the engine cooled, the ring would have shrank back down and no longer been able to build enough compression to run again. I've heard of this problem being able to happen with nitro engines for RC trucks. They don't even have rings, just relies on the fitment between the piston and sleeve to build compression. If your engine gets too hot, the piston will expand enough to enlarge the sleeve, but once it cools the piston and sleeve are too loose to create enough compression to start. Heat it up enough, it may be able to start again, but the engine would have to be running way too hot, and essentially it'll ruin the engine. And again, not knowing how it ran last time they used it, may have been running poorly. Could have had low compression causing the engine to have lazy performance, but if the owner isn't mechanically inclined or familiar with engines, they probably wouldn't have even noticed how poorly it was really running. They'll probably be amazed how smooth and powerful it is when you give it back.
I hope so, it was quite telling when I found out they were running it at wide open throttle, so who knows how they were taking care of it.
i have this blower and the newer style of poulan pro blower that is black and both of them will start up just fine and rev up good but when i release the throttle even when the engine has warmed up they both shut off about 5 seconds after i release the throttle and they just started doing this. i dont know why because the week before they both ran and idled great. do you have any suggestions?
did you add new fuel recently?
@@HomeGaragechannel yes i mix my 2 cycle fuel by the gallon.
@@HomeGaragechannel i have replaced the ignition coil and piston ring on one of the 2 blowers about a year ago but i think there is a carberator problem. i usually run seafoam through every tank of gas so thats very suprising that it will start but it wont idle
@@HomeGaragechannel and about 2 weeks ago it was idling perfectly.
@@HomeGaragechannel i am considering taking apart the carberator and cleaning it or just ordering a new carberator from amazon
Poulan made a lot of Craftsman blowers back in the day when there were Sears stores all over. Today's Craftsman?
I think you're onto something.
Most Craftsman stuff these days is made by MTD. Many troubles daily.
nice..
I have the same blower, however my issue is that it cuts out whenever you try to give it gas. I put new carb on it, new gas lines, gas filter. Blower starts easily but when given gas it stalls out.
Any suggestions 🤔
oh you need to drill a hole in your muffler to help the exhaust get past the clog in your spark arrestor screen.
@@HomeGaragechannel I tried drilling hole in muffler but made no difference, any other suggestions
Try adjusting the High and low screws for the air mixture
On the carburetor
@@edwardgoodwin1813 I did and it runs well until I give it gas. Then it stalls
What cleaners do you use
I use a degreaser from harbor freight for the oily and greasy spot and LA Awesome cleaner for dirt.
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you very much for te most part things just seem to come off fairly easy in your videos so thank you for the information
it's not for the lack of trying that's for sure.