A real shop??? HG you have way more than enough knowledge and skills to get this blower up and running!!! You are the reason I'm able to fix my equipment. Can't wait for the next upload. Excited to see this blower in action
Thanks for this video! A neighbor was disposing of one of these blowers because it wouldn't start. I had no experience with small engines, but I thought that with the help of videos like this, I might be able to fix it. I picked it up, and after looking it over, I decided to replace the carburetor. Ordered a new carburetor with fuel lines, fuel filter, air filters, spare primer bulbs, and spark plug. Replaced everything with no problems, but still no joy. It would hit even with starter fluid. I pulled the muffler and looked at the ring and thought it looked okay. Put it aside for a while, then looked again and decided the ring might be stuck. I figured that I had nothing to lose at this point, so I disassembled the blower and engine and found the ring was indeed stuck. I broke it while trying to free it, so I cleaned the grove and piston while I waited for a replacement ring. I installed the new ring, reassembled the blower, and it started right up! 😂 Thanks again for posting this and giving me the chance to learn/do something new!
Had the same problem, Poulan, wouldn't help, low compression, stuck piston ring. Cleaned piston, freed ring, bought new ring, reassembled. Fired right up, but didn't last long, till it did it again. Bought new head & piston & ring. Runs like new, now! Learned a lot. Great video!!!
a regular video takes about 10 to 14 hours to make, so a long video would take over 20 to 30 hours. I simply don't have that sort of time and that's why I try to keep my videos from being too long.
I don't mind longer videos either , I know editing takes a while though so it's all good multiple shorter videos or one long video doesn't matter as long as we get to learn something new and or see how things work we are happy and keep up the great videos
@@HomeGaragechannel you should make a playlist for certain things ie blowers, mowers, trimmers, etc. That would be awesome for me personally because I watch your videos at night
A super video for me as DIYer . I am at the same stage with a Stihl sh 86 . I have it ten years and have managed to keep it operating . The last time it just stopped suddenly .Checked spark and all OK. Replaced carb. No go Replaced coil. No go Replaced fly wheel No go Replaced spark plug. No go Currently waiting on a compression tester to arrive , but in the meantime I purchased a new one to relieve the stress . Please get the other video up soon as I can not wait to see the result . I hope to hear it running like a song . PS the day before my blower failed I think I heard a sharp crack coming from it but on failure day it ran good for five minutes . Previous failings were repaired by Carb renewal Coil renewal Kill wiring harness renewal , intermittent stops due to faulty harness . Bolt coming loose behind flywheel causing a mechanical seizure I know this is my Stihl history lesson please forgive ,but it may be of help to someone .
You definitely went way beyond what anyone of the people who own a home would have done. They would have just bought a new one in this case I would have to ask well. Good video
A real shop ? Sir you are humble !.Your experience surpasses so called real shops.Dude you fixed it .that stuck ring fix will bring up the compression at least 25 psi.its fixed now.great job and another awesome video.
Once again I checked with my daughter and she said it has a bad goer. I think you are spot on with your analysis. The only other thing I can think of might be a problem with those reeds that let gas and air to flow into the combustion chamber. Looking forward to the next video.
One thing to do is check continuity of the lead of the ignition module with a multi meter and move and pull the lead around while doing it and see if there is a break or loose connection somewhere. I have been caught out with that before where i checked for spark it was fine but when i plugged the lead back into spark plug i had nothing because of the way the lead was bent over to attach to the plug and i couldn't understand why it was not starting. It's not a common problem but i have seen it from time to time and worth taking a couple of seconds to check.
I’ve learned a ton watching your videos but I’ve always heard of you don’t have at least 100 psi then the blower is no good so I think you are on the right track
Your videos are fantastic! I appreciate that you don't just narrate while you're working. It's so much more helpful when you record the narration after you've made the video track. Pure pro, man. Pure pro!! I wish you had a tip jar!!
Mate, I think you are 100% on the right path. That piston ring needs to be freed up as not only was the compression low, it can cause the eventual problem of a ceased engine. I look forward to the next episode.
FINALLY you come across a stuck ring! I had this exact thing happen with a RedMax blower I was given from a landscaper who said it just wouldn't start one day.
It's great to have tinker time. What it is not important. It's about having something to do. Also you are teaching. The repair is the same regardless what it cost. Sometimes the cheap ones are harder to fix due to quality.
Genuinely a professional quality video; very articulate and thorough! I just went through the exact same gyrations with a Poulan BVM200VS blower that I trash picked. Went through the carb...renewed the fuel lines and freed the piston ring. Noted that it had a new spark plug (clue). Well, I get intermittent spark with the plug grounded but believe that it's likely not sparking when under compression when operating dynamically. Checked air gap and keyway, so I'm condemning the coil. This one's pretty worn out, so likely not worth the $15 for a new coil. Heading to the parts bin!
I have 2 of the same blowers and haven’t post them for sale since I couldn’t get them to run in optimal condition, even put a new carburetor and still have very erratic idling, and hardly ever stays running, unless I hit the throttle, already adjusted the carb and when it seems to be right the next day is acting up again, removed muffler and surprisingly there’s very little to nothing scratches, just a slight carbon buildup on the exhaust port, move the piston in a position where the exhaust port can be cleaned, also submerged the muffler in gasoline to clean all carbon, oil buildup, put it together and finally got a great improvement when starting it and now stays running in idle but still a slight erratic idling. I decided to disassemble the other (same model, got them a yard sales) and cylinder had a very slight fine scratch but the piston ring was stuck like yours in the video, I’m pretty sure that was the real culprit in those leaf blowers. My guess, home owners rarely run blowers or weed eaters full throttle, and they either plug up exhaust arresters, exhaust port or even the muffler, what I noticed when there’s buildup in the muffler or exhaust port the engine floods quickly or run rich. The other situation home owners don’t mix fuel and oil in the correct ratio, (worst case) they put in very little oil and that wears their engines and then come saying but it was running fine before it quit or the that before it started and run.
yes I agree with you, run it at low RPMs and the likelihood that the piston ring might get stuck it very high on these. Also did you do a compression test?
I recently had one of these and the ring was very carbon jammed. Jug was nice, not scored, so I soaked it in pb blaster. 36 hours later, I destroyed the ring. Good thing I ordered the ring initially. I cleaned the piston and installed new ring and Psi jumped from 36 to 120. You showed this model in a previous video and it was very helpful.
Great job cleaning that ring! Took piston from one as ring was scored. Installed in another one and the sucker started!! Used 40-1 mix. I have a weed wacker that I bought at Wal Mart, for $99. Never even replaced the plug on it. Use it twice a week in the summer. What I don’t do is rev the crap out of it. That’s what ruins most of them. Oh, it’s over 10 years old already. Let’s see what happens this spring.😊
Out of all the 2 stroke leaf blowers I've used/repaired, Poulan BVM series were the most troublesome. Mine had over 140psi and didnt have lose outer bolt issue but carb adjustment was extremely sensitive. Utimately, I was able to fine tune the L/H screws on the carb but I spent more time adjusting carb than actually using this leaf blower.
You did it the correct way. It’s not that often you see a ring get stuck on a two stroke unless it’s the vertical scratch marks the keeps it pushed back into the groove. Great video as always
I think that it will come down to low compression as to the reason why it would not run. Eighty PSI, from my experience, is a bit low for a two stroke to run at all. It will be interesting to see how much the compression increases when you button everything back up. The only other thing that it could be is a weak spark from the coil.
Thanks for the video I took mine apart and found the piston ring stuck also. I wasn't as lucky as you I'm waiting for a new ring in the mail, mine broke into pieces.
I have a 6 year old Stihl BG 86 blower and ran perfect until now. The engine suddenly stopped/seized up. I removed the flywheel and the 3 bolts behind it were loose and caused the back of the flywheel to get jammed. I tightened them up and it again ran perfect. I decided to take the flywheel off again and put locktite on the 3 bolts and now it barely starts and will only run on half choke, when I throttle, it bogs then dies. I use nonethanol gas. This is what I've done so far with no success, same problem with no changes: Checked spark plug, checked the air filter, checked the spark arrestor and mufler, replaced the carburetor, fuel lines and filter. Final item, replaced the tank vent and checked the timing. Note, when adjusting the H & L on the new replaced carburetor, nothing changes, still bogs/dies. I'm puzzled as what to do next, any help/suggestions would be great appreciated,
sure thing, have you consider taking off the muffler and looking at the exhaust port? The port could be collecting carbon, and is closed up, acting like a blocked spark arrestor screen.
I have this same blower that I rebuilt from the ground up and have noticed that when I put it away the next day the fuel tank is completely empty, I believe I have a leak somewhere in the tank.
Good job cleaning the ring and groove, make sure to clean the carbon out of the exhaust port as this can make issues with low power or not starting. Also try a different spark tester, I like the jump the gap type as sometimes the orange glow type will give you a false test. Thanks for the video.
I had the exact same problem from start to finish of this video. Mine was a Husqvarna. Mine ring was also carboned stuck and I replaced the ring and cleaned the groove. Reassembled and it fired up.
Great video, hopefully the next video will show it starting. I don’t think your viewers would mind a longer video. I know I don’t mind. Thanks see you on the next one.
Check the ring for a flat spot. Years ago I took two Poulan blowers of this type apart and in each case I found a flat spot worn on the outer circumference. I bought a new ring for each blower and fixed the compression problem.
your most surely on to something and i reckon that crankshaft seal might be part of the culprit from my view seeing all that dirt around where the flywheel sits on that section between the flywheel key and main seal etc.
I had 2 partially stuck piston rings this year on different equipment. They were both from the company that cuts my grass. New rings, gaskets, seals, and they ran like they were brand new. I probably could have just done the rings or cleaned the carbon and put the rings back on. But, considering their use, it's better to just replace those while the block is apart. Both machines had compression readings in the 75-80 range, so when I saw that on yours, my first guess was piston ring if not a scored piston/cylinder. As long as the ring wasn't too worn on the outside, the cleanup should get sufficient compression for it to start and run again. It looked like there was some carbon in the exhaust built up too (hard to tell on camera), which I try to clean up a little as well for better air flow.
phew, that's a LOT of work, for a cheap blower. IDK if i'd have went to the extent you did, sir. I commend you on your diligence and perseverance though! Who'd have though that a stuck piston ring would have caused all of those issues. Great video IHG!
What I am wondering is there a way to clean the stuck ring with out disassembling said blower like a solvent that could be added and left in for a little while then emptied out but it may not work well so just a thought I had
@@HomeGaragechannel makes sense it would damage some seals so there's no way around good old fashioned taking it apart and cleaning / soaking the piston and rings on there own and then reassembling with a little assembly lube when needed
Think your in right direction, but would have replaced ring while it was out...I've seen this before on that engine..I changed the ring...still no start...but way better comp....I went back to the Spark again..& with the spark tester showed spark like yours...however I felt the the light wasn't strong enough "Bright enough" so while I had it apart I changed out the coil assembly with a Known functioning unit I also had...Put it together & it started right up...So I think the coil was going or gone even thou it still produced spark on my spark tester..I have same tester as you!! Also check that the crankcase plastic cover seal looks good and the cover itself has no hairline cracks...ran into that once before too with low comp...Keep up the good work!! Always enjoy your video's!!
I think you covered all the bases but it might be an intermittent coil problem. I've got one for you, i got a brand new old stock Tecumseh tc 300 series engine that runs great but i put my compression tester on it' just to see how good a new one would read and all its got is 37psi. i've checked my tester hooked it up on my air compressor adjusted it to 80psi and that is what the compression tester read. I know it doesn't make sense & it left me scratching my head.😂😂Good video & good luck. I'm looking forward to see what you find out.
While 80 psi isn't ideal, I find it hard to believe that is the issue. I have an echo es210 with 60 psi compression (new ring and I ball honed the cylinder with no increase in compression) but it starts and runs well. I would lean more toward a coil issue/weak spark or an air leak somewhere. I would also use a better oil to prevent that carbon build-up. I run Echo Red armour @ 50:1 in some equipment, and Amsoil Saber @ 80:1 in all my new Echo's (pas2620, hc2210, and pb9010) . Whether or not that was THE issue for the lack of start it certainly was a issue for that blower Hopefully, you got it fixed and great video!!
@@HomeGaragechannel Do you have any ideas on how to get the compression up on that es210? (I run echo red armor in that) I rebuilt the motor completely, ring, gaskets, seals etc., so I am stuck on why it has so little compression. I have used multiple gauges, and it feels weak on compression as well (It doesn't have an easy start feature). I tried removing/deleting the base gasket and just using permatex motoseal and it didn't do anything on the compression either. Thanks!!
hmm.. you didn't do any porting right? Did you take any measurements on the cylinder bore, before and after honing? To only thing I could come up with is milling the cylinder base, a couple thousandths .
No l didnt do any porting or measuring. Measuring the bore would have been a good idea. I also only used echo parts on it, so l dont think l got a part (mainly a ring) that doesn't play nice with the rest of the motor. All l can say next time it comes apart the engine might be getting some modifications to increase compression. Thanks so much for your advice!!
Checking the cylinder compression alone on a 2 stroke, only gives you a small picture because of the way air alone enters the combustion chamber. Two other areas to check are crankcase pressure and crankcase vacuum. Crank vacuum is what air into the engine and unlike a 4 stroke, the air does not enter the combustion chamber from the intake. Air and fuel are drawn into the crank case where it is compressed and "Transferred" to the cylinder for compression and ignition. There are several ways that the crank vacuum and compression are achieved (piston port, rotary valve or reed valve, however all require a good seal between the piston and the cylinder near and to the bottom of stroke. If for any reason, there is a crankcase leak sufficient air and fuel will not be drawn into the engine. Also, there is no float bowl so the main jet fuel supply is governed by a built-in fuel pump and needle valve. All of the fuel pumps are powered buy the fluctuating air pulses in the crankcase and if they are not sufficient, no fuel will enter the engine. The simple task of freeing up the sing may and probably was sufficient to restore proper crankcase seal and and allow the engine to start
@@HomeGaragechannel it's the descending piston that creates primary compression & transfer, if the stuck ring is causing low primary & secondary ? 60 psi on a 4 stroke is enough to get the engine to cycle, perhaps a 2 stroke may need a little more pressure with their configuration ?
@@HomeGaragechannel while we're talking, why don't I see you on the live streams even in the chats ? Top Conker Saturday 7.30 GMT or Ken's small engine on Sunday mornings ? It's good sport, even just being in the chat.
I'm having the same issue with my Dad's old craftsman. spark, fuel, and low compression but still enough. Not really worth fixing anymore, it had the carb replaced last year.
I haven't seen the next video yet but your going in the right direction , compression is low , 80 % forget it , you need at least 100 psi minimum and 120 to 140 psi would be great ! As foe a real shop , your doing great ! Someone ran that blower with less than adequate premix ratio , yes it probably states 50.1 mix but never ever run a poulan blower like that one on anything less than 40.1 ratio premix and make sure it's synthetic premix oil , echo red armor or my personal choice mercury quicksilver 2 cycle marine premix at 40.1 ratio , as for checking the ignition timing thats not a bad idea but I have never saw a flywheel that stripped or jumped keyway on that type of set up !
Just as a question, when storing two stroke equipment, leaf blower weed eater and chainsaws, should I empty all the fuel out of them and run until completely empty?
I would say spot on with the low compression causing non-start, however the cause is probably using the wrong type 2-stroke oil, some people will mix in any type they can find and if its castor based or racing spec it needs higher temperatures to burn off cleanly, if the engine is running cooler than the oil was designed for the unburnt oil turns into a gummy mess and cause ring sticking & port clogging.
Sorry to be a pain but I think my problem is the spark arrestor. Could you give me any advice on how I remove it or do I clean it while it’s in the muffler? Thank you so much for your help.
i wouldnt say you went in the wrong direction sometimes engines are just complicated rabbit holes. but the only thing i thought to check that i didn't hear you say was fuel pump/sending unit
I've got a poulan pro trimmer pp446et that's annoying me similar to your blower. I've got spark, got gas. The spark arrestor screen is clean. I don't have a compression tester. I've changed the coil & a new carburetor & spark plug. I've seen gas come out the carburetor & muffler even after I replaced the carburetor. Dried the plug & did the unflooding stuff. There's a coat of carbon on top of the piston. I'd hate to take it all apart again to check the timing key. I'm about ready to sell it for parts or throw it away.
Not a big fan of the poplin pro, what brand are you least fond of? Oh and ive been trying to send you comments o videos but for some reason they haven’t been sending, pretty weird, sorry if i went quite for a few months
that's weird, I check the "held" section all the time and I haven't seen any of your comments there, so they should be showing up , like normal. As for the least favorite brand, I don't have one, but I do have a "STYLE" of engine, that I don't care for, and it's the one with the spark plug, on the bottom.
I have taken my 15+ year old Poulan apart so may times to fix shit. Luckily never that. Have to say, I had no money when I bought that thing and it still is useful as a backup blower.
screw the nut back onto the shaft, but leave it flush with the shaft. Then use a pry tool under the flywheel and "sharply" strike the nut with a hammer. the shock will loosen the flywheel
I think freeing the ring will get this engine working again. Definitely not supposed to be stuck, and 80psi of compression really is on the low side. I don't necessarily think that 80 is enough compression to make this engine run, probably depends on the engine, but I'm guessing this one is set up in such a way that it needs more than 80 psi to work properly. The only other things I can think of are that either fuel or air got blocked off somehow, but you bypassed the fuel system by putting fuel directly into the engine, and it didn't appear to have anything keeping air out, so not sure what else could cause it. Maybe exhaust/spark arrestor clogged somehow? Any mention of how well it ran the day before it wouldn't start?
hi...love your vids! i have the same blower. it will start and run good but only if i put gas on the carb..it dont start with out putting gas on the carb. any ideas?
I don't know if that blower ran but I have an identical blower with identical non run situation. I am stumped. short of replacing the cylinder and piston, I can find no other solution. I am open to suggestion.
Okay, let’s see what is reviewed in the follow up video, but you did the right thing but it may be carburettor related when it comes to troubles but compression is a major factor.? It would of been replaced if you had to repair at shop
no I was not, confirmed it twice, besides going the other direction, pulls on the rope for the recoil, and won't allow you to turn it over. Thanks for trying tho.
I've got one of the older poulan 2000 blower/vac it starts easy when it's cold but after it runs and get warm when you shut it off it won't start back I'm ready to throw it in the trash
there's no difference now, but there used to be a difference when I came up with them, one was the diagnostic, and the other was the repair but the viewers hated it.
This one is going full send. My guess was bad gas almost before the video started. Then I got tired after several jumps to a conclusion. At this point a recall buying a cheap Poulan chainsaw for ≈ $99 on Amazon. I used it for about an hour to cut down a tree and it crapped out on me, never to run again on the next use five minutes later. I took it to the shop because it was brand new and was told the cylinder was scored so bad it could not be repaired. I was so mad at that chainsaw that I used it like a horseshoe all over the backyard is an effort to feel better about the loss.
I just started watching this video and 1 thing I noticed right away is that the spark plugs boot says to twist to be on and work correctly! If you have a blower u can look for urself or just zoom in on this video and u will see it clearly written!!
I know you have made videos short and it's mostly because of the editing that you have to do takes a lot. But like a previous user on here says too I like long videos also... Yes freeing up the ring was a fantastic thing to do... A little break home down the cylinder walls would have done another clean up too and make it slide easier...
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A real shop??? HG you have way more than enough knowledge and skills to get this blower up and running!!! You are the reason I'm able to fix my equipment. Can't wait for the next upload. Excited to see this blower in action
lol.. I appreciate that, and yes, the second part of the video is being produced right now, and will be available sooner than later
Thanks for this video! A neighbor was disposing of one of these blowers because it wouldn't start. I had no experience with small engines, but I thought that with the help of videos like this, I might be able to fix it. I picked it up, and after looking it over, I decided to replace the carburetor. Ordered a new carburetor with fuel lines, fuel filter, air filters, spare primer bulbs, and spark plug. Replaced everything with no problems, but still no joy. It would hit even with starter fluid. I pulled the muffler and looked at the ring and thought it looked okay. Put it aside for a while, then looked again and decided the ring might be stuck. I figured that I had nothing to lose at this point, so I disassembled the blower and engine and found the ring was indeed stuck. I broke it while trying to free it, so I cleaned the grove and piston while I waited for a replacement ring. I installed the new ring, reassembled the blower, and it started right up! 😂 Thanks again for posting this and giving me the chance to learn/do something new!
Had the same problem, Poulan, wouldn't help, low compression, stuck piston ring. Cleaned piston, freed ring, bought new ring, reassembled. Fired right up, but didn't last long, till it did it again. Bought new head & piston & ring. Runs like new, now! Learned a lot. Great video!!!
really? I'll have to see how long this ones last until it does it again.
Make it a long video I like those
a regular video takes about 10 to 14 hours to make, so a long video would take over 20 to 30 hours. I simply don't have that sort of time and that's why I try to keep my videos from being too long.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you for explaining this I appreciate it.
no problem, and thanks for understanding
I don't mind longer videos either , I know editing takes a while though so it's all good multiple shorter videos or one long video doesn't matter as long as we get to learn something new and or see how things work we are happy and keep up the great videos
@@HomeGaragechannel you should make a playlist for certain things ie blowers, mowers, trimmers, etc. That would be awesome for me personally because I watch your videos at night
One of your best videos - it's nice seeing an uncommon diagnosis
thanks
A super video for me as DIYer . I am at the same stage with a Stihl sh 86 . I have it ten years and have managed to keep it operating .
The last time it just stopped suddenly .Checked spark and all OK.
Replaced carb. No go
Replaced coil. No go
Replaced fly wheel No go
Replaced spark plug. No go
Currently waiting on a compression tester to arrive , but in the meantime I purchased a new one to relieve the stress .
Please get the other video up soon as I can not wait to see the result .
I hope to hear it running like a song .
PS the day before my blower failed I think I heard a sharp crack coming from it but on failure day it ran good for five minutes .
Previous failings were repaired by
Carb renewal
Coil renewal
Kill wiring harness renewal , intermittent stops due to faulty harness .
Bolt coming loose behind flywheel causing a mechanical seizure
I know this is my Stihl history lesson please forgive ,but it may be of help to someone .
wow you've gone thru everything I would have to try and get it running. Yes the video is coming up very soon.
You definitely went way beyond what anyone of the people who own a home would have done. They would have just bought a new one in this case I would have to ask well. Good video
thank you and yes I did go pretty far on it, but it needed it.
A real shop ? Sir you are humble !.Your experience surpasses so called real shops.Dude you fixed it .that stuck ring fix will bring up the compression at least 25 psi.its fixed now.great job and another awesome video.
Thanks I appreciate that. you already know the compression going to go up, and spoiler, it goes up A LOT! thank you Jose Arzola.
Once again I checked with my daughter and she said it has a bad goer. I think you are spot on with your analysis. The only other thing I can think of might be a problem with those reeds that let gas and air to flow into the combustion chamber. Looking forward to the next video.
thank you D Butler
No reeds
One thing to do is check continuity of the lead of the ignition module with a multi meter and move and pull the lead around while doing it and see if there is a break or loose connection somewhere. I have been caught out with that before where i checked for spark it was fine but when i plugged the lead back into spark plug i had nothing because of the way the lead was bent over to attach to the plug and i couldn't understand why it was not starting. It's not a common problem but i have seen it from time to time and worth taking a couple of seconds to check.
My favorite how do I fix this channel 🤝
thank you !
Thanks for making this video… it helped me get my leaf blower running again. Much appreciated!
Glad it helped
I’ve learned a ton watching your videos but I’ve always heard of you don’t have at least 100 psi then the blower is no good so I think you are on the right track
thank you Todd Osterhout. 100 psi is decent, and any lower, it's going to be down on power.
I can’t wait for part 2!
coming up soon
Your videos are fantastic! I appreciate that you don't just narrate while you're working. It's so much more helpful when you record the narration after you've made the video track. Pure pro, man. Pure pro!! I wish you had a tip jar!!
thanks I appreciate that
I`m voting for weak or intermitant spark since it was running ok with the stuck ring for probably some time.Great instructional video !
thank you janovsk1
Had same problem. After considerable checking, found the finest hair line cut in wiring grounding it to block. Repaired and runs good as new.
nice work finding the issue
Mate, I think you are 100% on the right path. That piston ring needs to be freed up as not only was the compression low, it can cause the eventual problem of a ceased engine. I look forward to the next episode.
thank you Dee Bee.
FINALLY you come across a stuck ring! I had this exact thing happen with a RedMax blower I was given from a landscaper who said it just wouldn't start one day.
I'm glad you finally found something that interests you. did you ever fix the redmax?
@@HomeGaragechannel I love your videos! Yeah, once I freed the ring it ran great. Still use it to this day.
Make a long video. I thoroughly enjoy these videos. You have a loyal follower.
I appreciate that A -B
Good day Yes u are going the right as far I would think, but it is a puzzle, but you are the mechanic & I am the watcher. Good luck & thanks
thank you Don Voll, I appreciate it!
It's great to have tinker time. What it is not important. It's about having something to do. Also you are teaching. The repair is the same regardless what it cost. Sometimes the cheap ones are harder to fix due to quality.
you got that right.
Genuinely a professional quality video; very articulate and thorough! I just went through the exact same gyrations with a Poulan BVM200VS blower that I trash picked. Went through the carb...renewed the fuel lines and freed the piston ring. Noted that it had a new spark plug (clue). Well, I get intermittent spark with the plug grounded but believe that it's likely not sparking when under compression when operating dynamically. Checked air gap and keyway, so I'm condemning the coil. This one's pretty worn out, so likely not worth the $15 for a new coil. Heading to the parts bin!
thank you and good luck with the repair.
I have 2 of the same blowers and haven’t post them for sale since I couldn’t get them to run in optimal condition, even put a new carburetor and still have very erratic idling, and hardly ever stays running, unless I hit the throttle, already adjusted the carb and when it seems to be right the next day is acting up again, removed muffler and surprisingly there’s very little to nothing scratches, just a slight carbon buildup on the exhaust port, move the piston in a position where the exhaust port can be cleaned, also submerged the muffler in gasoline to clean all carbon, oil buildup, put it together and finally got a great improvement when starting it and now stays running in idle but still a slight erratic idling.
I decided to disassemble the other (same model, got them a yard sales) and cylinder had a very slight fine scratch but the piston ring was stuck like yours in the video, I’m pretty sure that was the real culprit in those leaf blowers.
My guess, home owners rarely run blowers or weed eaters full throttle, and they either plug up exhaust arresters, exhaust port or even the muffler, what I noticed when there’s buildup in the muffler or exhaust port the engine floods quickly or run rich.
The other situation home owners don’t mix fuel and oil in the correct ratio, (worst case) they put in very little oil and that wears their engines and then come saying but it was running fine before it quit or the that before it started and run.
yes I agree with you, run it at low RPMs and the likelihood that the piston ring might get stuck it very high on these. Also did you do a compression test?
I recently had one of these and the ring was very carbon jammed. Jug was nice, not scored, so I soaked it in pb blaster. 36 hours later, I destroyed the ring. Good thing I ordered the ring initially. I cleaned the piston and installed new ring and Psi jumped from 36 to 120. You showed this model in a previous video and it was very helpful.
yes I've done this job more than once, unfortunately , but I'm glad it worked out for you .
@@HomeGaragechannel $8 ring delivered, it it fun to get them running again.
yes sir.
@@HomeGaragechannel not worth it for profit, but I enjoy the challenge. Sometimes. And sometimes I wonder why I bothered.
Great job cleaning that ring! Took piston from one as ring was scored. Installed in another one and the sucker started!! Used 40-1 mix. I have a weed wacker that I bought at Wal Mart, for $99. Never even replaced the plug on it. Use it twice a week in the summer. What I don’t do is rev the crap out of it. That’s what ruins most of them. Oh, it’s over 10 years old already. Let’s see what happens this spring.😊
very nice, thank you Gyro Onesix
Out of all the 2 stroke leaf blowers I've used/repaired, Poulan BVM series were the most troublesome. Mine had over 140psi and didnt have lose outer bolt issue but carb adjustment was extremely sensitive. Utimately, I was able to fine tune the L/H screws on the carb but I spent more time adjusting carb than actually using this leaf blower.
yes I know how that feels.
You did it the correct way. It’s not that often you see a ring get stuck on a two stroke unless it’s the vertical scratch marks the keeps it pushed back into the groove. Great video as always
I appreciate that, thank you Lasse Kviesgaard
I think that it will come down to low compression as to the reason why it would not run. Eighty PSI, from my experience, is a bit low for a two stroke to run at all. It will be interesting to see how much the compression increases when you button everything back up. The only other thing that it could be is a weak spark from the coil.
you are correct about the spark from the coil, and yes hopefully the compression increase enough to get it to run
Thanks for the video I took mine apart and found the piston ring stuck also. I wasn't as lucky as you I'm waiting for a new ring in the mail, mine broke into pieces.
it happens, and It looks like you're on your way to getting it working again.
Thank you for your video.
I have a 6 year old Stihl BG 86 blower and ran perfect until now. The engine suddenly stopped/seized up. I removed the flywheel and the 3 bolts behind it were loose and caused the back of the flywheel to get jammed. I tightened them up and it again ran perfect. I decided to take the flywheel off again and put locktite on the 3 bolts and now it barely starts and will only run on half choke, when I throttle, it bogs then dies. I use nonethanol gas. This is what I've done so far with no success, same problem with no changes:
Checked spark plug, checked the air filter, checked the spark arrestor and mufler, replaced the carburetor, fuel lines and filter. Final item, replaced the tank vent and checked the timing.
Note, when adjusting the H & L on the new replaced carburetor, nothing changes, still bogs/dies.
I'm puzzled as what to do next, any help/suggestions would be great appreciated,
sure thing, have you consider taking off the muffler and looking at the exhaust port? The port could be collecting carbon, and is closed up, acting like a blocked spark arrestor screen.
@@HomeGaragechannel Yes I did remove the muffler and cleaned a minor amount of carbon build up.
did you notice if the flywheel key was sheared from the "Jamming"?
@@HomeGaragechannel Yes, most of the flywheel key is gone.
I see, if the key is gone, then you'll need to replace the flywheel, otherwise the ignition timing will be off.
I have this same blower that I rebuilt from the ground up and have noticed that when I put it away the next day the fuel tank is completely empty, I believe I have a leak somewhere in the tank.
it's quite possible.
Good job cleaning the ring and groove, make sure to clean the carbon out of the exhaust port as this can make issues with low power or not starting. Also try a different spark tester, I like the jump the gap type as sometimes the orange glow type will give you a false test. Thanks for the video.
yes I should have cleaned the port better, thank you Waterman one.
I had the exact same problem from start to finish of this video. Mine was a Husqvarna. Mine ring was also carboned stuck and I replaced the ring and cleaned the groove. Reassembled and it fired up.
nice work Bob N
Great video, hopefully the next video will show it starting. I don’t think your viewers would mind a longer video. I know I don’t mind. Thanks see you on the next one.
me to, thank you Growing Little Country homestead.
Check the ring for a flat spot. Years ago I took two Poulan blowers of this type apart and in each case I found a flat spot worn on the outer circumference. I bought a new ring for each blower and fixed the compression problem.
thank you for that information
your most surely on to something and i reckon that crankshaft seal might be part of the culprit from my view seeing all that dirt around where the flywheel sits on that section between the flywheel key and main seal etc.
it's definitely a possibility, thank you Patrick Stapleton.
I had 2 partially stuck piston rings this year on different equipment. They were both from the company that cuts my grass. New rings, gaskets, seals, and they ran like they were brand new. I probably could have just done the rings or cleaned the carbon and put the rings back on. But, considering their use, it's better to just replace those while the block is apart. Both machines had compression readings in the 75-80 range, so when I saw that on yours, my first guess was piston ring if not a scored piston/cylinder. As long as the ring wasn't too worn on the outside, the cleanup should get sufficient compression for it to start and run again. It looked like there was some carbon in the exhaust built up too (hard to tell on camera), which I try to clean up a little as well for better air flow.
nice work! and yes after freeing the ring, the compression does improve quite a bit.
phew, that's a LOT of work, for a cheap blower. IDK if i'd have went to the extent you did, sir. I commend you on your diligence and perseverance though! Who'd have though that a stuck piston ring would have caused all of those issues. Great video IHG!
I know right, if I was charing for my time, they would never have agreed to it.
What I am wondering is there a way to clean the stuck ring with out disassembling said blower like a solvent that could be added and left in for a little while then emptied out but it may not work well so just a thought I had
yes you could but you'd have to fill the engine with it too, and it would damage all the seals.
@@HomeGaragechannel makes sense it would damage some seals so there's no way around good old fashioned taking it apart and cleaning / soaking the piston and rings on there own and then reassembling with a little assembly lube when needed
Nice info n tutorial..👍💪😄..greeting from Malaysia..🇲🇾
thank you Matt Arie Channel, and hello Malaysia!
Hi mate. Well done finding that the piston ring was stuck. Looking forward to see if the compression will increase. Cheers 🦘🇦🇺
you won't have to wait long, I'll be releasing it sooner than later, thank you Tyrone Clarke.
@@HomeGaragechannel where's the video showing that after you cleaned the rings the engine started!!! Can you share that video with me please
Think your in right direction, but would have replaced ring while it was out...I've seen this before on that engine..I changed the ring...still no start...but way better comp....I went back to the Spark again..& with the spark tester showed spark like yours...however I felt the the light wasn't strong enough "Bright enough" so while I had it apart I changed out the coil assembly with a Known functioning unit I also had...Put it together & it started right up...So I think the coil was going or gone even thou it still produced spark on my spark tester..I have same tester as you!! Also check that the crankcase plastic cover seal looks good and the cover itself has no hairline cracks...ran into that once before too with low comp...Keep up the good work!! Always enjoy your video's!!
ah, you make good point about the spark, I might have to get a new one, just in case this doesn't work, thank you jct300m.
@@HomeGaragechannel Pretty common coil...Poulan/Craftman/weedeater 25cc are all the same coil Featherlite/P1500-P2500-P3500...Etc...
I think you covered all the bases but it might be an intermittent coil problem. I've got one for you, i got a brand new old stock Tecumseh tc 300 series engine that runs great but i put my compression tester on it' just to see how good a new one would read and all its got is 37psi. i've checked my tester hooked it up on my air compressor adjusted it to 80psi and that is what the compression tester read. I know it doesn't make sense & it left me scratching my head.😂😂Good video & good luck. I'm looking forward to see what you find out.
thank you Mike Jones
While 80 psi isn't ideal, I find it hard to believe that is the issue. I have an echo es210 with 60 psi compression (new ring and I ball honed the cylinder with no increase in compression) but it starts and runs well. I would lean more toward a coil issue/weak spark or an air leak somewhere. I would also use a better oil to prevent that carbon build-up. I run Echo Red armour @ 50:1 in some equipment, and Amsoil Saber @ 80:1 in all my new Echo's (pas2620, hc2210, and pb9010) . Whether or not that was THE issue for the lack of start it certainly was a issue for that blower Hopefully, you got it fixed and great video!!
I hear what you're saying. If this doesn't work, I'm going to look into maybe getting a new ignition coil. Thank you Ethan Miller.
@@HomeGaragechannel Do you have any ideas on how to get the compression up on that es210? (I run echo red armor in that) I rebuilt the motor completely, ring, gaskets, seals etc., so I am stuck on why it has so little compression. I have used multiple gauges, and it feels weak on compression as well (It doesn't have an easy start feature). I tried removing/deleting the base gasket and just using permatex motoseal and it didn't do anything on the compression either. Thanks!!
hmm.. you didn't do any porting right? Did you take any measurements on the cylinder bore, before and after honing? To only thing I could come up with is milling the cylinder base, a couple thousandths .
No l didnt do any porting or measuring. Measuring the bore would have been a good idea. I also only used echo parts on it, so l dont think l got a part (mainly a ring) that doesn't play nice with the rest of the motor. All l can say next time it comes apart the engine might be getting some modifications to increase compression. Thanks so much for your advice!!
no problem thank you for your time.
Checking the cylinder compression alone on a 2 stroke, only gives you a small picture because of the way air alone enters the combustion chamber. Two other areas to check are crankcase pressure and crankcase vacuum. Crank vacuum is what air into the engine and unlike a 4 stroke, the air does not enter the combustion chamber from the intake. Air and fuel are drawn into the crank case where it is compressed and "Transferred" to the cylinder for compression and ignition. There are several ways that the crank vacuum and compression are achieved (piston port, rotary valve or reed valve, however all require a good seal between the piston and the cylinder near and to the bottom of stroke.
If for any reason, there is a crankcase leak sufficient air and fuel will not be drawn into the engine. Also, there is no float bowl so the main jet fuel supply is governed by a built-in fuel pump and needle valve. All of the fuel pumps are powered buy the fluctuating air pulses in the crankcase and if they are not sufficient, no fuel will enter the engine.
The simple task of freeing up the sing may and probably was sufficient to restore proper crankcase seal and and allow the engine to start
thanks
Is there enough primary compression, are the crank seals ok ?
the primary compression is a bit weak and the front crank seal is good.
@@HomeGaragechannel it's the descending piston that creates primary compression & transfer, if the stuck ring is causing low primary & secondary ? 60 psi on a 4 stroke is enough to get the engine to cycle, perhaps a 2 stroke may need a little more pressure with their configuration ?
oh I see you what you're saying.
@@HomeGaragechannel while we're talking, why don't I see you on the live streams even in the chats ? Top Conker Saturday 7.30 GMT or Ken's small engine on Sunday mornings ? It's good sport, even just being in the chat.
nice idea but I am not free, during that time slot.
ANY lead is a lead and you'll never know unless you follow it up. Good deal and Blessings!
you are correct
What is in the spray bottle what kind of cleaner works better
it's either LA Awesome cleaner or harbor freight's degreaser
Think your on the right track . Did the piston have arrow point to the muffler side.
yes it was on the inside of the piston. near the wrist pin.
I'm having the same issue with my Dad's old craftsman. spark, fuel, and low compression but still enough. Not really worth fixing anymore, it had the carb replaced last year.
you're right, this one was not really worth fixing either but I had a few hours on my hands, so I gave it a shot.
Got 3 of these with no run issue , replaced rings in all and cashed out.
nice work!
I haven't seen the next video yet but your going in the right direction , compression is low , 80 % forget it , you need at least 100 psi minimum and 120 to 140 psi would be great ! As foe a real shop , your doing great ! Someone ran that blower with less than adequate premix ratio , yes it probably states 50.1 mix but never ever run a poulan blower like that one on anything less than 40.1 ratio premix and make sure it's synthetic premix oil , echo red armor or my personal choice mercury quicksilver 2 cycle marine premix at 40.1 ratio , as for checking the ignition timing thats not a bad idea but I have never saw a flywheel that stripped or jumped keyway on that type of set up !
thanks, and the next video pretty much sums it up.
Just as a question, when storing two stroke equipment, leaf blower weed eater and chainsaws, should I empty all the fuel out of them and run until completely empty?
I think it's the best method and it's what I do, but It's up to you.
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you, keep putting out great content! You’ve helped me fix my leaf blower and my push mower
I will thank you
I had a trimmer,that had spark compression fuel still would not start,it was the gasket between the insulator and engine had to replace.
yes that's a good reason a blower, wouldn't start. thank you Jerry Southerland.
I've seen a similar problem in a car. Turned out the coil was no good. It can show spark in a tester, but still not fire the plug.
ah.. now that makes sense
I would say spot on with the low compression causing non-start, however the cause is probably using the wrong type 2-stroke oil, some people will mix in any type they can find and if its castor based or racing spec it needs higher temperatures to burn off cleanly, if the engine is running cooler than the oil was designed for the unburnt oil turns into a gummy mess and cause ring sticking & port clogging.
thank you Paddy Man .
I'll be waiting for the next part....
here you go
th-cam.com/video/QltDnZFhZrA/w-d-xo.html
This/you is a real shop!
thank you Curiosity
Sorry to be a pain but I think my problem is the spark arrestor. Could you give me any advice on how I remove it or do I clean it while it’s in the muffler? Thank you so much for your help.
unfortunately I won't be able to help you on this one. But if you get creative you can bypass it. I however won't be able to tell you how though
Thank you for responding. I will see.
Cracked housing.
thanks
i wouldnt say you went in the wrong direction sometimes engines are just complicated rabbit holes. but the only thing i thought to check that i didn't hear you say was fuel pump/sending unit
That's a tough call I would have gone the same way You did to save some money
Understandable that it is extremly frustrating .
thank you for understanding Christopher Furrow.
What type of cleaner did you use on it? Seems like a good one
it's a degreaser from Harbor Freight
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks I will definitely look for it
Hmmm good question. I’m not really sure how to answer that. I guess if it runs at you do what your doing it might show it was a compression problem.
I'm hoping the compression is the problem otherwise I'm not sure what to do.
I've got a poulan pro trimmer pp446et that's annoying me similar to your blower. I've got spark, got gas. The spark arrestor screen is clean. I don't have a compression tester. I've changed the coil & a new carburetor & spark plug. I've seen gas come out the carburetor & muffler even after I replaced the carburetor. Dried the plug & did the unflooding stuff. There's a coat of carbon on top of the piston. I'd hate to take it all apart again to check the timing key. I'm about ready to sell it for parts or throw it away.
I know it's frustrating, but do you have a friend who works on cars? if so, have them do a compression test on it, and see what the reading is.
Use paint thinner to dissolve carbon buildup
thanks for the tip
Not a big fan of the poplin pro, what brand are you least fond of? Oh and ive been trying to send you comments o videos but for some reason they haven’t been sending, pretty weird, sorry if i went quite for a few months
that's weird, I check the "held" section all the time and I haven't seen any of your comments there, so they should be showing up , like normal. As for the least favorite brand, I don't have one, but I do have a "STYLE" of engine, that I don't care for, and it's the one with the spark plug, on the bottom.
What are you spraying and rinsing to clean the outside of the blower?
I'm using the gallon size degreaser from Harbor Freight and using water to rinse
I have taken my 15+ year old Poulan apart so may times to fix shit. Luckily never that. Have to say, I had no money when I bought that thing and it still is useful as a backup blower.
to be honest, I really do like this style of blower, and I don't have an issue using one everyday.
Can you explain more about what the other method of removing the fly wheel is and what the risk associated with it is please?
screw the nut back onto the shaft, but leave it flush with the shaft. Then use a pry tool under the flywheel and "sharply" strike the nut with a hammer. the shock will loosen the flywheel
@@HomeGaragechannelthanks for the reply. I assumed this was the method. Does this method run the risk of damaging the crank shaft in any way?
yes there's a small chance and you could also hit something on the engine if you should miss.
I think freeing the ring will get this engine working again. Definitely not supposed to be stuck, and 80psi of compression really is on the low side. I don't necessarily think that 80 is enough compression to make this engine run, probably depends on the engine, but I'm guessing this one is set up in such a way that it needs more than 80 psi to work properly. The only other things I can think of are that either fuel or air got blocked off somehow, but you bypassed the fuel system by putting fuel directly into the engine, and it didn't appear to have anything keeping air out, so not sure what else could cause it. Maybe exhaust/spark arrestor clogged somehow? Any mention of how well it ran the day before it wouldn't start?
unfortunately no, I wasn't given that information
hi...love your vids! i have the same blower. it will start and run good but only if i put gas on the carb..it dont start with out putting gas on the carb. any ideas?
hmm, it's definitely something going with the carb. I would replace the carb, and reason is it's only $16.
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you! i will do that
Do you think that Sea Foam or any fogging product might have worked on the stuck piston?
at the point it's at, No. It would require something stronger, like saoking in b12 carb cleaner or a strong acid.
I don't know if that blower ran but I have an identical blower with identical non run situation. I am stumped. short of replacing the cylinder and piston, I can find no other solution. I am open to suggestion.
did you watch the entire video? I fixed the blower and the problem Is very common on this model
I'm just as asshole who doesn't know what he's doing, since you've asked. I think you're making logical steps to fix it.
thank you Curtis Frost.
What type of screw driver do I need to take off the muffler? Thank you.
I think it's a T25 or T27 Torx
Thank you!
no problem
that piston has been through hell
it's not as bad as running straight gas thru it.
@@HomeGaragechannel very true but it has still got a lot of use on it
very true.
What did you use to clean the carbon off
you mean on the piston? Carb cleaner seems to do a good job otherwise oven cleaner
Okay, let’s see what is reviewed in the follow up video, but you did the right thing but it may be carburettor related when it comes to troubles but compression is a major factor.?
It would of been replaced if you had to repair at shop
yes you are correct
Does it just use gas?
I have the exact same mcculloch leaf blower, I’m trying to find the right size pvc pipe to attach to make it a leaf sucker.
good luck, do you have the model number?
@@HomeGaragechannel mcculloch gbv 345
unfortunately they no longer make the part you need, you'll need to find it used.
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks, I was planning to make a pipe fit rather then buying a very expensive oem one
When you tried to start it with the drill you were going backwards ?
no I was not, confirmed it twice, besides going the other direction, pulls on the rope for the recoil, and won't allow you to turn it over. Thanks for trying tho.
WOW! Sherlock Holmes lives!👍
thanks
This "blows" me away
lol.. nice
Could it be something to do with the stop switch
no the ring was stuck to the piston.
@homegarage I got a question for you do you know where to find this carburetor for my mower it's a 2006 briggs and stratton
The number on the carburetor is 214661
sure on Amazon, or Ereplacmentparts dot com.
it's best if you had the Model and serial number on the mower deck.
@@HomeGaragechannel I've tried amazon but that didn't work so I'll try the other
I've got one of the older poulan 2000 blower/vac it starts easy when it's cold but after it runs and get warm when you shut it off it won't start back I'm ready to throw it in the trash
sorry to hear that.
Hey man what 2 cycle oil do you use
Black Max full synthetic
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you. I will be getting me some this spring
What's the difference between this channel and IHG?
there's no difference now, but there used to be a difference when I came up with them, one was the diagnostic, and the other was the repair but the viewers hated it.
How do you get that little swing gate open at 1:22 in the video?
push a flat screwdriver into the opening, but have it closer to the left side of the opening
This one is going full send. My guess was bad gas almost before the video started. Then I got tired after several jumps to a conclusion. At this point a recall buying a cheap Poulan chainsaw for ≈ $99 on Amazon. I used it for about an hour to cut down a tree and it crapped out on me, never to run again on the next use five minutes later. I took it to the shop because it was brand new and was told the cylinder was scored so bad it could not be repaired. I was so mad at that chainsaw that I used it like a horseshoe all over the backyard is an effort to feel better about the loss.
man that sucks sorry to hear that.
Did ya get it started?
not yet, but when i get it back together, I'll soon find out.
4:55 would it be in start position?
since I added fuel to the engine, I have to try and start it in the run position otherwise you'll end up flooding it in the "start" position
👍
thank you Revelation Homestead.
I just started watching this video and 1 thing I noticed right away is that the spark plugs boot says to twist to be on and work correctly! If you have a blower u can look for urself or just zoom in on this video and u will see it clearly written!!
really? I'm going to look at it now and see, thanks
Is that a different rod toward the end of the video? I can't tell.
the connecting rod? no it's the same.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok. Thank you. Your vid’s are always a pleasure.
I appreciate that A Patterson.
That was some nasty deposits on that piston. Oil related failure from deposits.
very possible
I know you have made videos short and it's mostly because of the editing that you have to do takes a lot. But like a previous user on here says too I like long videos also... Yes freeing up the ring was a fantastic thing to do... A little break home down the cylinder walls would have done another clean up too and make it slide easier...
thank you Christopher Tyler, if I have enough time, and I can produce longer videos I will, but unfortunately this time didn't work out.
I think it's an air leak in the crankcase
that is definitely a real possibility
Yes. Had a crapsman that did that.
Check the trigger. Make sure it’s opening up enough
thanks for the tip