Thank you so much for this Peter. It's the perfect solution to the un-reliable and clumsy festool edge guide rod thingys. This is such a superior idea and executes with perfect precision every time. Cheers!
Great jig. Super fast to make too. I've been a follower of yours for w while. But when you made this video 3 years ago I didn't have an LR32. Now I do. I've used it twice and was watching Bent's Woodworking's video on how to set up the LR32 and he mentioned your jig. So I had to come back and watch it. I do like the pieces that came with the LR32. I will likely have them set to 37mm and leave them that way. And then make this jig for anything other than that 37mm increment.
Hi Peter... I'm from across the pond in New England where the weather is just awful... I watch 2 or 3 TH-cam's a day from a host of Wood Workers and I do so enjoy your content... the Jigs are just wonderful and I learn so much watching. As I told Matt Jackson of Next Level Carpentry I watch all your videos even if I'll probably will never do what your doing... BUT, I'll be exposed to a tool, a jig, a method or something I see you do will germinate in my mind and when I'm doing a project I'll have that AHA moment and say to myself... "I know how work this problem out!" or I saw Peter or Matt or one of the other You Tuber's do this or that! All I can say great is... Just Brilliant keep up the good work... I have friends up in Ipswich, one who has a radio program on Suffolk BBC "Mark Murphy" He is always looking for interesting people to interview I'm going to drop him line about you if he doesn't already know about you! Check out Matt Jackson both of you seem to be on the very high end of wood working... take care, again great topics!
Thanks Bob! I’ve chatted with Matt at Next Level a few times, big fan of his work and really pleased to see him doing so well. And thanks for the heads-up about Mark. Always happy to have a chat! Best wishes & Happy New Year from London! 🙌👍
Thank you Peter for the great series of very useful tutorials and information. After making my own hole drilling jig sliding along the LR32 track, these location helpers will be super handy. Keep it up!
Built mine so that the plywood runs out far enough to flush up with the edge of your finished cabinet, this way when you set the router guide on the track it will drill the holes at a 37mm set back, if you build a lot of euro cabinets. 😁👍🏻
Tristan, like you I just don't get why anyone would go to the bother of giving any TH-cam video a thumbs down ?? If you are not interested in something then quite simply, stop watching it, simple 🙂
Thanks Peter. Quick, efficient and simple. I have copied and used all of your jigs for the festool rail. Haven't managed to lose any yet though. Thanks once again for going to the effort of making these videos.👍👍😀😀
I used to think that double sided sticky tape was the preserve of Blue Peter projects, but it gets used in so many woodworking projects, especially as a temporary fix. I need some sticky tape (and some clamps, lots of clamps).😄
I don't get it even though I watched until the end 🙄 why not just know the distance from the edge of the track to the router cutter? I can be thick sometimes.
Love the idea. I made these after watching your other guide rail instant jig making video a while back. It was easier for me to buy a predrilled white melamine 18" x 8' board here in the states from HD (The "Orange" big box store) that had the 27mm & 10mm offsets holes predrilled in it. Using a 5mm bit in my router to sync with the 5mm holes in the board, I was able to find the correct distances form the edge. Then with my Peter Millard inspired jigs, I was able to set the correct offset from the edge. Did the same for a 10mm for the rear. For the middle, I just a split the difference for a 24" cabinet side for the middle pins if needed. Hardware fits, shelf's don't rock, works pretty good. Keep the great ideas coming. You inspire other woodworkers to do better.
I love that you can make quality, entertaining content, even where you're making a tiny and very simple jig. Quick one Peter, sorry I can't find it myself, when you were making your built in cabinets, what did you make the carcasses out of. Everyone seems to use melamine coated particle board, and I hate working with it.
Thanks Ben! 97% of my work was painted, 2% Birch ply, 1% veneered. I never - not once in ~20 years - was asked for melamine/MFC. Nothing wrong with it, but none of my clients asked for it. 🤷♂️👍
@@jeffpagnutti thanks, and thanks Peter. I was sure it was MRMDF, I knew the doors were, but I started to doubt my recollection, and though it better to seek the higher powers.
I really liked the earlier video #361 when you made a high end version of an Ikea product. Could you for the sake of entertainment make a video in which you make a bespoke version of a Billy shelf, like 10cm wider than the regular one but of similar quality as from the store? Obviously it would be interesting to know the time and cost that it would take.
Thanks. Honestly, for the time and cost that would take I'd rather buy a Billy! 😂 I do have another one or two of that type of thing up my sleeve, but there's a few other things to get to first. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Obviously it could be a smaller project, but the point of the excercise would be to show how much would it cost to make an item that would fit your house and your needs when the Ikea product is slightly the wrong size. And I think that many believe that a custom shelf would cost only 30% more than an Ikea product.
Another great video Peter I like how you get all the information needed in a short video. I also noticed you using the toughbuilt scraper utility knife and wondered if you had any thoughts on it?
Thanks Matt. The toughbuilt is a really nice knife/scraper, but I have to admit, I have't used it as a scraper anything like as much as I expected to! Still a great knife though, proprietary blades notwithstanding. 🤷♂️👍
This one is making me feel stupid, but I just don't get it... What is the purpose of this jig? To get the rail square with the material by aligning the rail to a drawn line? To a drawn line that may or may not be square to the material? Sorry for being so thick; I'm sure I'm missing something...
It's just a spacer to position the rail relative to where you want the shelf pins to go, you have to measure and mark that first. I'm surprised Peter didn't also cut a strip the width of his 'normal' spacing of the holes from the edge, because that would allow you to get set up much faster/ more reliably. ?
Sorry if that wasn't clear Kevin, but at ~4:40 I do say “…so there you go, a simple jig that lets you align your guiderail in exactly the right place so you know where your row of holes will go.” So basically as Nial says, it's an offset jig to allow you to position the rail accurately in relation to the row of holes. If you don't have an LR32 rail and system, then it's of admittedly limited use. 🤷♂️ 👍
I sympathise with Kevin. I often spend most of a video (not especially on this channel - it's a general tendency) trying to understand what problem is being solved, which should be clear from the initial 'setup' part of the video. (Tell 'em what you're going to say, say it, and then finish by telling 'em what you said). I'm going to re-watch this one now to get a better appreciation of the value of the jig :) P.S. having re-watched I'm not convinced that you couldn't just measure the offset from the rail edge to the desired line of holes...
I'm with everyone on this point. The jig seems to do almost exactly what the LR32 already does: it positions the router bit at a fixed distance from the guide rail. It would seem to be more useful to alter the jig so that it would also or at least position the holes at the standard distance from the edge of your material. That would ensure your consistency and reduce set-up time, would it not? Otherwise a great video, as always, Peter!
Peter, was the doble sided tape you used in the video the same 3M 9088 double-sided tape you link to in the description? I bought some of that a while ago and though I can't remember why wasn't briliantly impressed with it, though it had been stored in a cold unheated garage just before I used. It's inside now but I wondered if you hald alternative stuff to try?
why not make 2 marks on each end of the router base plate where the center of the bit is. Then mark the piece of wood and slide the base next to the mark and adjust the guiderail left and right to allign the marks.
Have you ever used the OF1010 or OF1400 with the LR32 sled? Because if you have you’ll probably know that the routers have centre-marks built into the base - but that the LR32 sled obscures them. Hence the jig. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop That makes totaly sense. I do not own a festool router I made my own baseplate for a small makita router. And I will try your design on my lr32 rail becouse it seem faster to have 2 guides on each end of the rail than sliding the base from side to side.
Peter, pay no attention to the thumbs down people. It’s part of their therapy program at the asylum. Since they are not capable of understanding woodworking projects and having never created anything, the only thing to keep them quiet is let them sit and hit the ‘down’ button. Possibly a cookie drops from above when they do. Ignore them and enjoy your followers.
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Thank you so much for this Peter. It's the perfect solution to the un-reliable and clumsy festool edge guide rod thingys. This is such a superior idea and executes with perfect precision every time. Cheers!
Thanks! That’s exactly how I found the Festool OEM parts - and why I made these. 👍
Absolutely brilliant, mate. A superior solution that also saves significant money compared to buying the full LR system. Well done!
Brill, I will never need one or use one...but so glad i watched it...Cheers Peter.
Peter your videos are never too trivial to watch and enjoy it was good viewing with a coffee and lunchtime sandwich
Thanks Chris! 👍
Probably the most useful jig for festools lr32
Great jig. Super fast to make too. I've been a follower of yours for w while. But when you made this video 3 years ago I didn't have an LR32. Now I do. I've used it twice and was watching Bent's Woodworking's video on how to set up the LR32 and he mentioned your jig. So I had to come back and watch it.
I do like the pieces that came with the LR32. I will likely have them set to 37mm and leave them that way. And then make this jig for anything other than that 37mm increment.
Thank you! 👍
You are a genius. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙌
Hi Peter... I'm from across the pond in New England where the weather is just awful... I watch 2 or 3 TH-cam's a day from a host of Wood Workers and I do so enjoy your content... the Jigs are just wonderful and I learn so much watching. As I told Matt Jackson of Next Level Carpentry I watch all your videos even if I'll probably will never do what your doing... BUT, I'll be exposed to a tool, a jig, a method or something I see you do will germinate in my mind and when I'm doing a project I'll have that AHA moment and say to myself... "I know how work this problem out!" or I saw Peter or Matt or one of the other You Tuber's do this or that! All I can say great is... Just Brilliant keep up the good work... I have friends up in Ipswich, one who has a radio program on Suffolk BBC "Mark Murphy" He is always looking for interesting people to interview I'm going to drop him line about you if he doesn't already know about you! Check out Matt Jackson both of you seem to be on the very high end of wood working... take care, again great topics!
Thanks Bob! I’ve chatted with Matt at Next Level a few times, big fan of his work and really pleased to see him doing so well. And thanks for the heads-up about Mark. Always happy to have a chat! Best wishes & Happy New Year from London! 🙌👍
Fantastic tip
Peter. Cheers.
Excellent jig. Thanks.
Very simple and clever. Thank you.
Thank you Peter! Love your videos and how helpful/informative they are. Just built these last night and they worked like a charm 🙂
Thanks Eric! 👍
Thanks Peter for the video.
Thanks Christopher! 👍
Amazing Peter, just excellent mate.
Thanks David! 👍
Nice update gig build mate
Cheers Dan! 👍
Thank you Peter for the great series of very useful tutorials and information. After making my own hole drilling jig sliding along the LR32 track, these location helpers will be super handy. Keep it up!
This just solved an issue I've been pondering how to approach. It's not for what you are using it for but will solve my problem handily. Thank you.
Multi-functional videos Gary, that’s what we like! 😂👍
Thank you! Saving me a ton of time!
Excellent idea, just excellent
Thank you! Cheers! 👍
Built mine so that the plywood runs out far enough to flush up with the edge of your finished cabinet, this way when you set the router guide on the track it will drill the holes at a 37mm set back, if you build a lot of euro cabinets. 😁👍🏻
Brilliant!
Nice jig. Thanks for sharing the video. I started to paint my jigs, after I lost some of them.
Thanks Hans! And painting them is a great idea! 👍👍
Enjoy your videos. Watching from Boerne, Texas.
Thank you! Best wishes from London! 👍
I'm just about to embark on a kitchen project. This will be extremely useful. Thanks Pete.
Thanks Martin! 👍
That is such an adaptable jig. I know know how I am going to make a router jig for my Kreg Accu-cut. Many thanks Peter.
Cheers Mark; that was the point that many seem to be missing - that the basics of this jig can be adapted for many, many other uses! 👍
Nice one!!
Another of your smart ideas and solutions. This time I somehow understood it much better. Maybe I become smarter myself by watching your videos?
Thanks Frits! 👍
Brilliant, many uses for this ingenious jig, thanks Peter, keep safe
Cheers Paul - you too! 👍
Useful little jig, which I got the Idea of quite quickly even if some others didn't 😁, "Functionality is in the eye of the beholder" 😁
😂 And of course, it can also be used as the basis for many other guiderail-based jigs, which was kind of the point! 👍
Imagine going to the trouble of actually giving this a thumbs down 🤷🏻♂️ I will never understand some people.
😂😂 I don’t even register them. 🤷♂️👍
Tristan, like you I just don't get why anyone would go to the bother of giving any TH-cam video a thumbs down ?? If you are not interested in something then quite simply, stop watching it, simple 🙂
So much easier to critique than create
Thanks Peter. Quick, efficient and simple. I have copied and used all of your jigs for the festool rail. Haven't managed to lose any yet though. Thanks once again for going to the effort of making these videos.👍👍😀😀
Thanks Martin! 👍
Excellent as always Peter 👌🏻
Thank you! 👍
You're such a clever boy 😃 Great videos as always
😆👍👍
this was a very nice video. I am going to try this!
Thanks Mark! 👍
second, HAVE to like everytime....informative, always engaging...now to sit back and enjoy 😊😄😊
Thank you! 👍
I used to think that double sided sticky tape was the preserve of Blue Peter projects, but it gets used in so many woodworking projects, especially as a temporary fix. I need some sticky tape (and some clamps, lots of clamps).😄
Always lots of clamps! 😂👍
Oh, I expect he gets a bit Blue Peter when things go wrong...
Love these simple little jigs 👍.
Thanks! 👍
excellent ... thanks
Right, got it. But I had to wait until the end of the video to understand the problem that this jig resolves!
Almost like it was designed to keep you watching... 😂
I don't get it even though I watched until the end 🙄 why not just know the distance from the edge of the track to the router cutter? I can be thick sometimes.
Love the idea.
I made these after watching your other guide rail instant jig making video a while back. It was easier for me to buy a predrilled white melamine 18" x 8' board here in the states from HD (The "Orange" big box store) that had the 27mm & 10mm offsets holes predrilled in it. Using a 5mm bit in my router to sync with the 5mm holes in the board, I was able to find the correct distances form the edge. Then with my Peter Millard inspired jigs, I was able to set the correct offset from the edge. Did the same for a 10mm for the rear. For the middle, I just a split the difference for a 24" cabinet side for the middle pins if needed. Hardware fits, shelf's don't rock, works pretty good. Keep the great ideas coming. You inspire other woodworkers to do better.
Thanks Warren! Glad to hear it worked out for you! 👍
Nice and simple, the way jigs should be.
👍
Love these usefull quickies 👍👍👍
Thank you! 👍
Only now I realize you posted 3 videos last week :)
😂👍
Genius
A great demo as always Peter but was that an 'I'll just, it's only' moment when you cut the jig in half on the chop saw at the end???
Creative 👍
Did I miss it? How far does the small piece extend out of the rail? Was it 30mm like the first small piece you cut on the band saw?
I think you may have missed the part where I say that absolute sizes don’t matter, just use what works. About 30mm worked fine. 👍
I love that you can make quality, entertaining content, even where you're making a tiny and very simple jig.
Quick one Peter, sorry I can't find it myself, when you were making your built in cabinets, what did you make the carcasses out of. Everyone seems to use melamine coated particle board, and I hate working with it.
Thanks Ben! 97% of my work was painted, 2% Birch ply, 1% veneered. I never - not once in ~20 years - was asked for melamine/MFC. Nothing wrong with it, but none of my clients asked for it. 🤷♂️👍
He makes everything out of MDF. Moisture resistant MDF more specifically.
@@jeffpagnutti thanks, and thanks Peter. I was sure it was MRMDF, I knew the doors were, but I started to doubt my recollection, and though it better to seek the higher powers.
👍 good jig! Find the old one yet?
Nope! 😂🤷♂️
This an improved version another, I think #35. Better sound, clearer.
I really liked the earlier video #361 when you made a high end version of an Ikea product. Could you for the sake of entertainment make a video in which you make a bespoke version of a Billy shelf, like 10cm wider than the regular one but of similar quality as from the store? Obviously it would be interesting to know the time and cost that it would take.
Thanks. Honestly, for the time and cost that would take I'd rather buy a Billy! 😂 I do have another one or two of that type of thing up my sleeve, but there's a few other things to get to first. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Obviously it could be a smaller project, but the point of the excercise would be to show how much would it cost to make an item that would fit your house and your needs when the Ikea product is slightly the wrong size. And I think that many believe that a custom shelf would cost only 30% more than an Ikea product.
Yep, very good point, and I'm sure you're right! 👍
Another great video Peter I like how you get all the information needed in a short video. I also noticed you using the toughbuilt scraper utility knife and wondered if you had any thoughts on it?
Thanks Matt. The toughbuilt is a really nice knife/scraper, but I have to admit, I have't used it as a scraper anything like as much as I expected to! Still a great knife though, proprietary blades notwithstanding. 🤷♂️👍
This one is making me feel stupid, but I just don't get it... What is the purpose of this jig? To get the rail square with the material by aligning the rail to a drawn line? To a drawn line that may or may not be square to the material? Sorry for being so thick; I'm sure I'm missing something...
It's just a spacer to position the rail relative to where you want the shelf pins to go, you have to measure and mark that first. I'm surprised Peter didn't also cut a strip the width of his 'normal' spacing of the holes from the edge, because that would allow you to get set up much faster/ more reliably. ?
Sorry if that wasn't clear Kevin, but at ~4:40 I do say “…so there you go, a simple jig that lets you align your guiderail in exactly the right place so you know where your row of holes will go.” So basically as Nial says, it's an offset jig to allow you to position the rail accurately in relation to the row of holes. If you don't have an LR32 rail and system, then it's of admittedly limited use. 🤷♂️ 👍
@ Nial Stewart - Fair point, but it's because the spacing of the column of holes varies, depending on the application. 👍
I sympathise with Kevin. I often spend most of a video (not especially on this channel - it's a general tendency) trying to understand what problem is being solved, which should be clear from the initial 'setup' part of the video. (Tell 'em what you're going to say, say it, and then finish by telling 'em what you said). I'm going to re-watch this one now to get a better appreciation of the value of the jig :)
P.S. having re-watched I'm not convinced that you couldn't just measure the offset from the rail edge to the desired line of holes...
I'm with everyone on this point. The jig seems to do almost exactly what the LR32 already does: it positions the router bit at a fixed distance from the guide rail. It would seem to be more useful to alter the jig so that it would also or at least position the holes at the standard distance from the edge of your material. That would ensure your consistency and reduce set-up time, would it not?
Otherwise a great video, as always, Peter!
🤯 🙌 🔥 🙇
Is little movement in the track ok or does it have to be perfect fit? Just made one but it has very slight play
A small amount of play is fine - it’s a guide to help you line up a set of holes. 👍
Re your previous video, is the coloured MDF OK to make a MFT?
Yes, absolutely - I'll be using the same material to make the top for my MFT replacement. 👍
This might be a daft question, but how are you spacing the holes so perfectly?
That’s what the LR32 rail does - spaces 5mm holes at 32mm centres.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Ah thank you, I didn't realise that's what was happening in the time lapse!
What blades do you use in miter saw
I think it’s a max item at the moment. Nice blade.
Peter, was the doble sided tape you used in the video the same 3M 9088 double-sided tape you link to in the description? I bought some of that a while ago and though I can't remember why wasn't briliantly impressed with it, though it had been stored in a cold unheated garage just before I used. It's inside now but I wondered if you hald alternative stuff to try?
Have to be honest, it was just whatever I had to hand, and I wasn't overly impressed - stick with the 3M 9088 if you want a strong bond that lasts. 👍
Hey I noticed 151,000 subs Peter 👏. Any video coming about it?
No. But thanks for noticing. 👍👍
Maybe it's an idea to paint them, so it won't disappear that easy in the scrap wood bin
Great idea, thanks! 👍
why not make 2 marks on each end of the router base plate where the center of the bit is.
Then mark the piece of wood and slide the base next to the mark and adjust the guiderail left and right to allign the marks.
Because it’s about 1000 times more work than making a simple jig to do the same job. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop making two marks with a pencil on the baseplate is a lot of work?
Have you ever used the OF1010 or OF1400 with the LR32 sled? Because if you have you’ll probably know that the routers have centre-marks built into the base - but that the LR32 sled obscures them. Hence the jig. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop That makes totaly sense.
I do not own a festool router I made my own baseplate for a small makita router.
And I will try your design on my lr32 rail becouse it seem faster to have 2 guides on each end of the rail than sliding the base from side to side.
Peter, pay no attention to the thumbs down people. It’s part of their therapy program at the asylum. Since they are not capable of understanding woodworking projects and having never created anything,
the only thing to keep them quiet is let them sit and hit the ‘down’ button. Possibly a cookie
drops from above when they do. Ignore them and enjoy your
followers.
Thank you. I have to confess, the 👍 vs 👎 don’t register at all, and tbh they all count as ‘interaction’ as far as the algorithm is concerned! 👍🙌
I did not know that. Didn’t want you to feel down when you see the ‘downs’. You are greatly appreciated!
Thank you! 👍
👍🤗🇨🇭
First!
🙌
It's a rush, isn't it? 😂