ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- As we work through our cabinet build, it's time to drill pinholes in our cabinet sides. Sedge walks us through the setup and use of the LR 32 system, with a few tips and tricks along the way. If you've ever had questions about, or have considered buying the LR 32-SYS for your shop, you may find the answer you're looking for in this video. As always, be positive and stay sharp!
What is the LR 32 System?
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Chapters:
0:00 Intro
3:46 Setting up Indexing Plate
4:38 Setting up Rail
6:06 Setting up Parallel Stop
7:43 Labeling Rail
9:57 Setting Depth on Router
10:51 Hole plunging
14:37 Discuss Cabinetry
17:26 Domino Overview
18:37 Setting Domino Depth
18:57 Using the Domino
23:38 Dry fit Cabinet
#Festool #LR32 #Router
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SedgeTool is all about woodworking and having a great time doing it. SedgeTool is Brian “Sedge” Sedgeley who brings 30 years of woodworking experience and tons of energy to the team. Derick “Big D” Clements who has NO CLUE about woodworking but is ready to learn. Chris "cameraman" Seibert who films it all! If you want to have a good time and learn something about woodworking, then you’ve come to the right place.
All views and opinions expressed during SedgeTool are explicitly those of SedgeTool. They are not intended to represent any claims, value statements, or opinions of any of the tools, brands, subsidiaries, or parent companies of brands referenced, visible, or mentioned on the show. The SedgeTool team is here for entertainment and educational purposes only. SedgeTool is not a replacement for proper training or safety guidelines as outlined by the manufacturer's owner’s manuals.
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As an American who got into woodworking a couple years ago and grew up believing imperial was better and easier, I have no idea why the metric system isn’t more popular here.
I scratch my head every day pondering the same thing...
Great job guys. I’m learning so much more about the festool system and how to improve my workflow. It’s also nice to see a new woodworker developing in real time!
Great to hear! and more to come !!!
Just found your channel, you’re unbelievably good at teaching. Clear concise instruction and the reasons why are given for every step. I’m not even trying to learn how to build a cabinet but I couldn’t stop watching. Subscribed to your channel and will now watch all of your videos!
Wow, thank you Chris...welcome to the Channel !!!!!!
Don’t know how I missed this video Sedge. Thought I had watched everything on your channel (plus Festool Live of course! 😉). Now I want to add the LR32 System to my already vast Festool collection!! 🙈. Thank you as always for a well explained and demonstrated video on the whole process.
Thanks for watching Allan !!!
Just found this video. Love it! I looked at the rest of your video’s, loved the festool stuff. If possible please do more builds.
Thank you! Will do!
These are absolutely golden tips and knowledge...putting that Domino mark to indicate your plate placement, had I seen that three weeks ago it would've saved me an extra 1-2hrs and putting about 6-8 too many incorrect mortises (that probably speaks more to my lack of intelligence to be able to envision how the machine and joinery needed to work together ;) Thank you sincerely for devoting your personal time to make this content...I'm finding it even more valuable than the FesLive episodes, to be honest. Much respect, and greatly appreciated! Be well!!
p.s. This now has me looking at acquiring the LR32 for cabinetry! Thx again
Thanks ...You made our day !!!!!!
Sedge, you are a hoot. Not too many guys would take the time to use FS rails as paneling for the walls. :)
Thanks ... glad you noticed .... best slat wall in my neighborhood !!!
Ok…..just found this fabulous content. Brilliant…..subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Hey Sedge- Canadian guy here in The Netherlands (long story). I know this video was posted 3 years ago but I'm going to ask a question anyway regarding the attachment of the guide plate to the base of the router. The bit about using the centering mandrel is clear. What I never realized is that there are two screws on the underside that should be tightened. 😅 Secondly I noticed in the video that the two black retaining knobs on the base plate were removed during the centering calibration. For me, while setting up my set here, I thought it was odd to have to do this as the threaded posts aren't very long; when affixing the OF 1400 to this plate, you only have a few turns of the knob and it's already tightened. Thankfully it stays in place properly, but it just seemed 'odd' and made me wonder if I had missed something. Might have been handy to have made mention of this detail (perhaps you never had any 'hmmm?' moment about this- might just be me overthinking sh!t... as usual 😅)
Otherwise an excellent masterclass on the LR32 system. You ought to go on tour here in Europe, you'd sell out everywhere!
the knobs are for attaching the OF1010...I always use the screws to attach the OF1400...
Another great video Sedge! At some point will you cover how to successfully join to Holey Rails together to maintain the 32mm spacing? Also, any plans in the future to do a drawer bank to show how to use the LR32 for drawer slides?
yep ... for sure ...already planning to do a drawer box !!! Thanks for watching !!!
Yes it does, thank you!
Great!
Thanks for very informative video.I was wondering is the 37mm offset for overlay cabinet door or inset door?
That 37mm is for full overlay ... to calculate for insert measure the thickness of door and add 37mm .. hope this makes sense ...
Love your Channel. I have a suggestion... When not using your vac-sys turn it off or put some sound barrier around it. When watching and listening, the vac-sys noise in the background makes it tuff to hear you for any length of time. Again, keep the good stuff coming. Can't wait until you use the LR32 to do a base cabinet with small drawers at the top and doors on the bottom. Thanks again for you delivering a great informative channel.
Thanks for the tip!
Sedge, do you have a video where you show your Kipp-type lever modification to the parallel stops? I really like those over the standard equipped thumb screws. What size are they?
The size of the lever is M6 1.0
Hey Sedge. Great video. What sustainer/sortainer would you recommend for storing cabinet hardware? Thanks jm
this one. .....amzn.to/47fCMMS
Hello guys. I am enjoying the new channel/video’s.
Sedge have you guys done yet on using the LR32 to pre-drill the mounting holes for drawer slides?
Also, what do you think of mounting the drawer slides prior to assembly?
Thanks for your time.
Ron
Not yet! working on video's for the future also 35mm cup bore for the door side using the LR32 system.... thanks for watching Ron !!!!!!!!!!!
Sedge, really enjoy your videos. Have learned a tremendous amount. Question for you. I dropped my LR32 guide rail and bent the end enough to make it unusable. I’m thinking of cutting the end off. Thoughts? Thanks
depends how bad the rail is damaged I would not cut it
Only the front set of system holes is 37mm from the edge. If you want to stay in the system,the back holes should be an increment of 32 from the first set, usually an increment that aligns with your rear mounting holes for your drawer slides
ok
Sedge, another very useful video. I'm looking for advice regarding using 5mm euro screws to mount the hinge plate and it seems the "5mm" screws will bite into the 5mm hole. What depth do you drill the 5 mm Pilot hole when using the LR32, I think you said 12mm. What length curio screw do you use? I've found 5mm euro screws in 10, 11.5 and 13mm. I'm using 18mm (~3,4 in plywood for the cabinets. Thanks agin for such useful videos, Bravo!
I use to bore to 10mm but now I bore at 12mm... easy for me to remember because of the domino connectors use 12mm....
I also use a 10mm screw length
Good vid. My question is when do you use the 16 vs 32 endstop setting? I have balanced panels. Cant find any info on this . Thanks Sedge
I use 16 on the sides and 32 on the doors..... that places the cup of the hinge center on the hinge plate .... this video may help you
th-cam.com/video/CxDvPZiwxgM/w-d-xo.html
Do you prefer the 1400 over the 1010 for the LR 32 system? If so, why? Thanks for the fantastic content.
I use to always use the OF1010 with the LR32 system....until I started using my OF1400 with it....I feel that the way the OF1400 attaches to the LR32 plate is easier and more secure
Think I've watched all your LR 32 videos, and I have not heard you talk about doing the other part of the hinge, on the door. I have jigs for it, but how to align for the cup part of the hinge is kind of confusing, getting it right. Plus cups have different offsets, ect. If I understand it correctly, the centerline of the hinge plate is 80 mm standard, then the centerline for the cup is 80 mm as well. Guess offset does not matter for that math. Did I answer my own question? Absolutely LOVE the LR 32 system for shelf pins, but want to use the entire system, for hinges as well.
this video about 19:50 th-cam.com/video/HUFuH38lx40/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get the handles (knobs) for the parallel guides? I only have small knobs on mine that is not easy to tighten/loosen? Thanks!
So many have asked I did a video on it ...
th-cam.com/video/_FYJ7LIUnSQ/w-d-xo.html
Forget the parallel guides, their garbage and clunky! Make your own set up jigs, it’s much faster. 😁👍🏻
is the raising grain in the back panel/door fronts purely an aesthetics thing or does it serve a purpose?
purely aesthetic
Hey sedge have you ever shown how to cut 35 mm holes with lr32 for doors?
Yep ..
th-cam.com/video/HUFuH38lx40/w-d-xo.html
Starts about 20:20 in the video in the attached link
Sedge, I cannot seem to remove all of the guide rail slop from the plate. No matter how much I tighten those two little screws there is 1 to 2 mm of slop on the rail. Is this normal? I was expecting this to behave just like the track saw slop removal process where you can literally make it tight against the guide rail then back it off slightly. Do you think there is an issue with my plate? I am still within a few days of a free return to the seller in case I need to request a replacement. Thanks!
There really should be no slop......
Sedge, I’m have some difficulty with the LR32 indexing pin. It keeps getting stuck. I have oiled it but it seems to stick. Any suggestions?
I use this stuff amzn.to/4aGkFBP
Thanks! You’re the man. Just purchased it!
One thing doesn't add up for me.. When you pre-drill drill the cabinet back with the router and LR32 for the hinge plate hole positions, it seems like you're drilling 5mm pilot holes for screws with a significantly smaller diameter thread. That seems strange. What are the screws which hold the hinge plates actually biting into? Does this work because the hole depth is much less than that of the screw length, so there is some biting right at the back? Do people drill these hinge plate holes super shallow to just use them as guide for a smaller bit? Thanks!
Ohhhh, I actually just checked some of the blum hinge plate specs and the screws that are specced are surprisingly wide in diameter, so they fit in a 5mm pilot hole. Is that right?
that is correct... I use 5mm coarse thread screws.....
Help! I can not get my holes to consistently line up. I’ve followed all the calibration steps. Anyone have advice??? Great video as always guys. Thanks
make sure when you place the router on the plate to use the centering mandrel..
@@sedgetool Thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it. I've taken out the slop in the rail. I have calibrated with the centering mandrel. I am still getting 1.5 to 2mm difference depending if I place the end stop on the left or I place the end stop on the right. I have to test it more but, I think the end stops are not giving me identical spacing from both ends of the rail. Thanks again.
Sounds like you have an unbalanced panel. You want the end stops to be tight at the ends of the panel. If you can jiggle the rail then your panel is too short, if the rail won’t fit on the board then the panel is too long. What ever your panel length is, it needs to be perfectly divisible by 32.
Might need to look at your saw fence for drift or if have your blade out of square it will cause run out; resulting in a non 90° cut.
Just curious, but only two dominoes used? Would a third just make it that much stronger? Thx
I use the domino for alignment of the front edge …. 3 would make it stronger!!! But I use 2 dominoes and 3 screws
@@sedgetool I built some upper wall cabinets for my shop and it was constructed with all pre-finished maple plywood and the end panels where going to show, so I used 4 dominoes with just glue at the butt joint, no screws. What a solid joint! Perfect use for dominos. 😁👍🏻
Is that an of 2200 mounted to your CMS Sedge? 😁
Older model OF1400 ; -) !!!
@@sedgetool We must have the same one!
Just watched a recent video and it vanished :D Sorry for the callout keep making the videos!
Has Festool discontinued this product? Thanks.
No..The LR32 is still available.....
Where, how, and why is the 32 mm created?
European cabinet standardization
@@sedgetool found this on wikipedia: "It is claimed that the system was developed after the end of World War II in order to help speed reconstruction of the vast number of buildings destroyed during the war, that the spacing was decided upon because that was the closest that multiple drill bits on a line boring machine could be placed, because of the size of the gears then available.[4]"
Housing joint UK - Dado US, Grove is only important in L.A.
Thanks...
So with the LR32 system: What is the reason for the 9.5 mm marking on the rail setup blocks (except that 9.5mm is is approximately half of 3/4 inch?) The 32 mm marking appears to be for connecting two or more LR 32 rails together, does this 32mm serve any other purpose? As a special note there are NO INSTRUCTIONS with the LR32 system, everyone just says to use "16mm up and out" but we all know 16mm is approximately 5/8inch and that 16 is one half of 32 so how can 18 mm plywood (if there is such a thing) play in correct cabinet making? Maybe it's a big secret? BTW I have two LR32 systems, 4 1400mm LR32 rails, and one 2424mm rail and no one seems to know if there is a correct answer. Please do not "Shoot from the hip, Documentation would be nice. Love your channel and Festool live..
9.5 for Raffix fittings from Haefle … no documentation… Kinda obsolete that Festool now has domino connectors… thanks for watching
Sedge, please. I love your show(s). Big D is a total distraction from what you’re trying to convey. Your mentorship of him is applauded, but please consider mentoring him off camera. It disrupts the flow. Every time he looks and nods at the camera, it drives me nuts. I’m desperately trying to learn new skills with woodworking and you’re the one that I prefer to learn from. Please take this in the right spirit.
Thanks
The noise from the vac sys ruins this for me.
Sorry about that .....
@@sedgetool good video though! Learning a lot from your channel.
Is that what that is?! I was trying to figure out whst the heck that annoying sound was, especially when you're trying to focus on all the technical details which were very well explained. 👍
Sedge, it seems like you skipped a step in setting up the side panels. I don't see a video explaining the overall design of the cabinet. For example, the slot or dado on the back of the panels is not explained and how far in they should go or what the depth should be. Maybe I missed something but for beginners, you need to take it a little slower. You are so good at this for so many years that the little details are just assumed. However, for newbies like me, every little setup detail that I don't understand, I grind to a halt for sometimes days at a time trying to figure it out. Or I screw up material experimenting around until I finally get something that works. Also somewhere on the channel or a website should be a COMPLETE list of everything you are using, especially all the Festool tools. Which router, what accessories, how are they assembled together. All that stuff. Every item may be simple to you, but you start adding up many many simple items, very quickly in a video, and it can get very confusing and complex very quickly. I believe the router is an OF1400, but instead of a 27mm hose (attached to which dust extractor?), I believe it is a 36mm hose. Is that really necessary in the LR32 system or can the standard 27mm hose be used? Or either (I own both but not many new Festool users have such luxuries when first starting out). What does a complete LR32 system look like? How long is the track? How far should the track fit over the ends of a particular length cabinet? How many holes for TWO or more shelves should there be and what is the guidance on that? All good stuff, and thanks for presenting these videos. Just trying to help.
Please be patient ... Next weeks video will encompass the back groove and it will all come together...thanks !!!
768 mm is 30.2362 inch and not 30.25 which is why I have and only use the LR 32 system. If Metric then use Metric, If Imperial then use Imperial, but do not convert one system of measurement to the other, it always ends in a mess of confusion. 32mm is 1.25984 inch, but 1.25 inch is 31.75mm and confusion will mess it all up. Buy and learn to use the LR32 system. I never buy the rail that comes in any Festool kit deal. Buy the tool without the offered rail and buy a LR32 rail separately , it is more money, but it is also more useful. Just my two cents. Now replay this video.
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