Sedge, man, you did it again. I just got my LR32 yesterday, waiting on the rail to be delivered, though. I came looking for this exact subject and you read my mind again! Must be a bald guy mind link thing. Question, where did you get your gauge blocks? I don't have any thin ones, but I'm shopping as we speak.
Great vid sedge. One thing though, instead of all the faf with the 1 or 2 mm spacers and all that jigery pockery with the rail, why not just make your doors 4mm bigger and cut down just before painting or finishing. I do this and it feels so much quicker. Cheers from the UK.
So if the door was verified to be 4mm smaller than the cabinet side, why should you need to reclamp from both ends? Seems like it would be better to leave it clamped from the one end as the cabinet side was punched out without moving the rail. If the door size was off a little, resetting with the gauge block from the opposite side would misalign it, I think. Great content, always enjoy.
@@sedgetool I think the way you showed was fine but only if door was nearly perfectly 4 mm shorter than the sides. If for example the door ended up too short or too tall and you still wanted to use it, repositioning the rail seems like it would mess up alignment to the side hinge. Leaving the rail in place, assuming your door is shorter than your rail seems like it would guarantee alignment of both hinges. I hope I am making sense. You are much more an expert than I 🙂. Thank you Sedge!!!
Ok thanks. Is the hinge that you installed a Blum Inserta Hinge? And does it use the same size hole that is needed for screws on say a Blum compact hinge or is the hole size bigger? Thanks guys…
Sedge amigo, love your videos. Why would you pin carcass brackets first inside the cabinet & create all the stress of having to line it up? Just install the hinges on the door, clip on the carcass side bracket, then set the door in position. Bingo, screw the hinges into the side of the cabinet.That's the way I have always done it, maybe a means to achieve the same end with far less math or room for error: a bit like scribing vs the measurement of numbers. Perhaps I am missing the point of this technique, or as I find one technique may fit one person's mental graphic, yet others may get quickly confused. Nice to study all methods if time permits.
Hi .. Just watched your bandsaw tension video which was great .. you said you would do one next of the roller set up ..but I can't find it anywhere. Can you pint me in the right direction?? Please ..Thanks
Hey sedge I’ve always used my 1400 router for the lr 32 I bought the little 1010 router for some other purposes thought I’d try it out for some shelf pin holes the other day worked great until I noticed the other side of shelf pins didn’t line up with the other so I put the centering mandrel back in and the router had moved on the plate I’m having problems with the 1010 mounting staying centered and yes I tightened the heck out of it so I went back to my 1400 no problem right ! I noticed you seem to have your 1400 on the lr 32 have you had problems with the 1010 mounting is there a trick to it ? Don’t no what it would be but thought I’d ask thnx
I use to use only my OF1010 with the LR32 ... I switched tho the OF1400 but still use the centering mandrel when tightening the screws.... when using the 1010 I really have to crank the tightening knobs so not to have slippage... I also after centering the 1010 when placing or removing a bit I will lay the plate hang off the table so it does not act as a lever and move the router on the plate....
@@sedgetool I did tighten the 1010 pretty tight thought if went much tighter I would risk bending the plate think I’ll stick to the 1400 for the lr32 lol thnx
I always look after your video’s, but now I have to ask why you complicate simple processes, i use hinge jig with drill and 35 forestner bit. It’s so simple and fast
I know a faster way. I use my Kreg kit & certainly a lot less tools, but obviously he’s a professional with a little bit more of a tool fetish than the rest of us.
Built dozens of kitchens and cabinets over my career. Drill press with large table and a few stop blocks will do and has done what you have spent literally thousands of dollars to do. Festool is a good brand…probably the best BUT all the bells whistles clamps gauges blocks routers rails and god knows what else are in my opinion absolutely ridiculous. I really hope that any newbies that watch this don’t think they need to have all this high priced equipment and gadgets. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a simple process as this,been so OVERDONE. Way way over the top. Just an opinion of a guy 40 years in the business….just sayin
If you have a large shop with the luxury of space for dedicated work stations around large equipment, agreed that some of these jobs can be done with less. I used to have space, but now my workshop is 10x10 feet with a garage door I can open when the weather allows. I am relearning how to do things and this is where Mft type tables and guide rail systems really shine. I’ve purchased Festool for things that made a difference to me (perceived or otherwise), but in the case of the LR32 I’ll admit I wasn’t willing to buy a new router and multiple guides for dados and 32mm system holes. I’m watching these videos to adapt the methods to the Bosch guide adapter that works for dados and the 32mm and also fits my existing router. Since I’d have to buy LR32 rails anyway, buying the off system Bosch rail for this task was a wash.
@@stephennowlan2637 it’s been so long since I commented on that video I can’t even remember it. Suffice it to say “ whatever works “ I was a self employed single operator who turned out quality workmanship for probably 30 plus years. My complete business was based on word of mouth . Other than a box of business cards I never spent a nickel on advertising. I too operated out of a small shop and never had luxury of using high end tools. I am retired now but would put any of my old tools and old ways including the jigs and the stop blocks up against anything out there. I must have been doing something right or I wouldn’t be as comfortable as I am now. Everything that I say here is just an OPINION on something that I’m qualified to speak about. Good luck
![I Make an MFT top with the LR32 rail [video 424][gifted/ad**]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C_J-PKrUo1Y/mqdefault.jpg)
This is about the best boring video I’ve ever seen! Thanks Sedge for putting this together!
🤣🤣
Sedge always shares useful tips in his videos - thanks mate
Happy to help
i am always picking up tips from your videos ....
Thank you
Cool ,Thank you Guys for another great Video an Tips .
Greetings from Wonderful Country Austria .
Thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
Our pleasure!
Just use a hinge cutting jig, but I understand your showing off the possibilities of the router
Sedge, man, you did it again. I just got my LR32 yesterday, waiting on the rail to be delivered, though. I came looking for this exact subject and you read my mind again! Must be a bald guy mind link thing. Question, where did you get your gauge blocks? I don't have any thin ones, but I'm shopping as we speak.
This is great information. I’ve been waiting for this. Makes so much more sense now. Thanks for covering this.
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid sedge. One thing though, instead of all the faf with the 1 or 2 mm spacers and all that jigery pockery with the rail, why not just make your doors 4mm bigger and cut down just before painting or finishing. I do this and it feels so much quicker. Cheers from the UK.
i have tried this before and made the mistake of taking the whole 4mm off of 1 side ...nightmare ....
Toujours parfait, on apprend toujours quelques choses, merci
Merci
Thank you! Amazing... very well done.
Glad you liked it!
what timing. I was looking for a video exactly like this yesterday!
Perfect!
So if the door was verified to be 4mm smaller than the cabinet side, why should you need to reclamp from both ends? Seems like it would be better to leave it clamped from the one end as the cabinet side was punched out without moving the rail. If the door size was off a little, resetting with the gauge block from the opposite side would misalign it, I think. Great content, always enjoy.
@JLLG2, I wad thinking the same thing.
hmmmmmmmm.... lines up the way I do it every time ....but I belive leaving it there will work as well...I will try that way next time...
@@sedgetool I think the way you showed was fine but only if door was nearly perfectly 4 mm shorter than the sides. If for example the door ended up too short or too tall and you still wanted to use it, repositioning the rail seems like it would mess up alignment to the side hinge. Leaving the rail in place, assuming your door is shorter than your rail seems like it would guarantee alignment of both hinges. I hope I am making sense. You are much more an expert than I 🙂. Thank you Sedge!!!
Your thoughts are validated@@JLLG2
Where can we buy those green things on the ratchet clamps? Looks so useful for repetitive setups
right here ...etsy.me/3z3KFWI
Great video, as always, but what are those green sliders on the clamp leg?!
The green slider acts as a balancing device so the clamp can stay upright,
Betsy clamps have the same design.👍🏝️🇨🇦
etsy.me/3z3KFWI
Hey Brian, how about a couple of videos on doing Inset doors and drawers with Euro hardware. Hope all is well.
will try to get it on the schedule
Good video guys! Did I miss where you drill the smaller holes on the door for the locking pins/screws to hold the 35mm cup hinge to the door?
I did not show that part. ......If I need to use screws I just use a vix bit and square the hinge to the door.
Ok thanks. Is the hinge that you installed a Blum Inserta Hinge? And does it use the same size hole that is needed for screws on say a Blum compact hinge or is the hole size bigger? Thanks guys…
Sedge amigo, love your videos. Why would you pin carcass brackets first inside the cabinet & create all the stress of having to line it up?
Just install the hinges on the door, clip on the carcass side bracket, then set the door in position. Bingo, screw the hinges into the side of the cabinet.That's the way I have always done it, maybe a means to achieve the same end with far less math or room for error: a bit like scribing vs the measurement of numbers. Perhaps I am missing the point of this technique, or as I find one technique may fit one person's mental graphic, yet others may get quickly confused. Nice to study all methods if time permits.
This method is all part of the lr32 system.
I use to do it the way you describe and have found this method easier for me ...
Your method is far superior when doing large quantities!@sedgetool Clever minds think alike.Thank you for all your considerate efforts & videos!
How do you use the inserta hinges without drilling the 2 8mm holes for the pins?
after inserted I use a vix bit to bore making sure they are square to the edge of the door
What brand of hinge are you using. They just snap in??
Blum Inserta ...
On poplar I liked this method. Hard maple was difficult for me
I use the LR32 system for boring hinges on all species of wood....
The key is you must have extremely sharp blades and take your time doing the drilling
Great video , thanks :)
Glad you liked it!
What is the brand and model for the snap in hinges that you're using in this video?
Blum Inserta
Where can I find those hinges?
Blum Inserta
Hi .. Just watched your bandsaw tension video which was great .. you said you would do one next of the roller set up ..but I can't find it anywhere. Can you pint me in the right direction?? Please ..Thanks
Coming soon!
Hey sedge I’ve always used my 1400 router for the lr 32 I bought the little 1010 router for some other purposes thought I’d try it out for some shelf pin holes the other day worked great until I noticed the other side of shelf pins didn’t line up with the other so I put the centering mandrel back in and the router had moved on the plate I’m having problems with the 1010 mounting staying centered and yes I tightened the heck out of it so I went back to my 1400 no problem right ! I noticed you seem to have your 1400 on the lr 32 have you had problems with the 1010 mounting is there a trick to it ? Don’t no what it would be but thought I’d ask thnx
I use to use only my OF1010 with the LR32 ... I switched tho the OF1400 but still use the centering mandrel when tightening the screws.... when using the 1010 I really have to crank the tightening knobs so not to have slippage... I also after centering the 1010 when placing or removing a bit I will lay the plate hang off the table so it does not act as a lever and move the router on the plate....
This is a super important question, as I've been debating which router regarding inlay work is most applicable as well
@@sedgetool I did tighten the 1010 pretty tight thought if went much tighter I would risk bending the plate think I’ll stick to the 1400 for the lr32 lol thnx
I always look after your video’s, but now I have to ask why you complicate simple processes, i use hinge jig with drill and 35 forestner bit.
It’s so simple and fast
ok
Exactly I couldn’t agree more, everything he does has to involve thousands of dollars worth of Festool tools, it’s crazy.
I would use a hinge jig or a drill press, your way seems over complicated.
ok
I know a faster way. I use my Kreg kit & certainly a lot less tools, but obviously he’s a professional with a little bit more of a tool fetish than the rest of us.
You need some green masking tape!
for sure
Got to say just use a pillar drill 😅
ok
@@sedgetool it would be a lot quicker though, even making a quick jig would be superior
Sledge lords?
ok
Built dozens of kitchens and cabinets over my career. Drill press with large table and a few stop blocks will do and has done what you have spent literally thousands of dollars to do. Festool is a good brand…probably the best BUT all the bells whistles clamps gauges blocks routers rails and god knows what else are in my opinion absolutely ridiculous. I really hope that any newbies that watch this don’t think they need to have all this high priced equipment and gadgets.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a simple process as this,been so OVERDONE. Way way over the top. Just an opinion of a guy 40 years in the business….just sayin
ok
I agree,use a drill press or a jig with a cordless drill, his way with a Festool router and the Festool rail does seem over complicated.
If you have a large shop with the luxury of space for dedicated work stations around large equipment, agreed that some of these jobs can be done with less. I used to have space, but now my workshop is 10x10 feet with a garage door I can open when the weather allows. I am relearning how to do things and this is where Mft type tables and guide rail systems really shine. I’ve purchased Festool for things that made a difference to me (perceived or otherwise), but in the case of the LR32 I’ll admit I wasn’t willing to buy a new router and multiple guides for dados and 32mm system holes. I’m watching these videos to adapt the methods to the Bosch guide adapter that works for dados and the 32mm and also fits my existing router. Since I’d have to buy LR32 rails anyway, buying the off system Bosch rail for this task was a wash.
@@stephennowlan2637 it’s been so long since I commented on that video I can’t even remember it. Suffice it to say “ whatever works “ I was a self employed single operator who turned out quality workmanship for probably 30 plus years. My complete business was based on word of mouth . Other than a box of business cards I never spent a nickel on advertising. I too operated out of a small shop and never had luxury of using high end tools. I am retired now but would put any of my old tools and old ways including the jigs and the stop blocks up against anything out there. I must have been doing something right or I wouldn’t be as comfortable as I am now. Everything that I say here is just an OPINION on something that I’m qualified to speak about. Good luck