Thanks for your effort on the video. I purchased same door direct from distributor. I didn't follow the enclosed directions but built a story pole out of a saw guide and flat steel ruler. After coming up with my height above threshold of 73 5/16 I used a product called a Toggler as I have metal studs. When cutting length on cross tube (if required) I again used my story pole instead of a tape measure. Remember the length represents the distance including the brass parts. Self install went well but be well aware of the ability to handle 76" length with the weight of the glass. The "bushings" would be better referenced as an eccentric and does offer a small degree of leveling. I'm pleased with my door and a good value. The most important advice is to place sliding panel inside the shower before installing stationary panel! Again, thanks for your video as it gave me the confidence to go forward with my project.
I'm in the middle and learning things as I go. I really appreciate the door in the tub first advise as well since it would have been brutal to place thru the opening.🥵
Great video saved me a ton of money did it myself. One note from the manufacturer.-- Jacob by name. He told me the correct height for the wall bracket centered at 73 and 1/8 inches above the threshold. Jacob said they forgot to include that in the instruction manual. He also said the fixed door basically rests on the threshold and suggested, like you, just using silicone adhesive to keep it in place. You can adjust the height up or down a quarter of an inch using the small wheel on the roller. Point the allen wrench hole down to lower the door-- point it up to raise it. Super helpful. Thanks for saving me $800 install fee. The doors look awesome!!!!
We just installed this exact Woodbridge frameless shower door last week. The door was ordered off of Amazon for the awesome price of $639. It was delivered in a wooden crate. I came here to compliment you on a great video that was so helpful I fully believe Woodbridge should include a link in their instruction manual which is only sufficient at best. I watched the video all the way through first then would start and stop and watched each phase as I completed it. The end resting was beyond my expectations. Thx for a great instructional video!!
💐💐💐 I got you these flowers as a BIG, BIG THANKS for your awesome video! I must of watched your video 6 times preparing for the install. The instructions provided are a dumpster fire. It's beyond me that they don't provide something similar as clear as to what you have done. But, it is what it is and your video was my achor and navigator. Some heros don't wear capes.
Great video. I'm about to embark on this same installation. I realize this video is a couple of years old but I would like to point out a couple of things. I believe the brass-colored brackets for the top bar should be installed with the slot verticle so it can help with height adjustment. Also, even though the brackets on the bottom are not providing a supporting load, I believe they have a side load on them. As gravity acts on the panel and the screws holding the bar to the wall are slipping over time, the panel will tend to rotate into the shower.
@@diybandit Just completed my project...One thing you might add. Make sure the internal threaded pieces on the main rod are firmly inplace. After cutting the pipe with my Chop Saw, both of the threaded pieces slide out of the end of the pipe! Realized that the smallest allen wrench can be used to tightened in place..
It's true! I think we'll just follow your video instead of following the directions. Did it really only take you 38 minutes to install this? @@diybandit
Thanks for this. Installing this door on a tub/shower tomorrow on a bathroom I remodeled. Thanks for the repeated references I can come back to tomorrow while I’m in the thick of it.
Very helpful video…it looks like maybe you set your bar height at 73-1/4…I think this is 3/4 higher than the 72.5 mark…what was your gap from bottom of door to threshold (maybe I missed this in the video) and/or how or why did you select 73-1/4 to install the top bar?
Thank you for the video, great tips for the DIYer. My measurement with the tiling completed is 58 " width and 81" height (measured from the top of threshold of the shower basin to the ceiling). Will I be able to install model MBSDC6076? I have only 5" (81 minus 76) to hang up the rolling door? Question 1 - What is the actual height of the rolling door? In the Woodbridge web site, the schematic shows 76” as measured from the floor and not from the threshold. Question 2 - where exactly do you drill the hole for the screw for the wall bracket (page 16 Fig 7)? The slot is not a hole but oblong shape .
I just installed this door. Very nice door and the video instructions were pretty much spot on. I also used the glue method. Now that I have it up, I'm a little miffed about the color. I feel like its greener in real life than on the video. I wonder if the manufacturer does a low iron version? Anyone know?
Great Video! I just installed this door this weekend! Because of the size of the space of the shower I did not follow the instructions of assembling the bar and stationery glass wall to dry fit. I measure the stationery glass to ensure it was 76" then I measured the center of the hole where the glass is being held in place to the bar and it turned out to be 3" from the top. So I drew my point of where to drill at 73 1/8" above threshold on both sides. I made sure these markings were center with threshold and exactly 73 1/8 above the threshold. This allowed me to install the bar first and I ensured it was level. The brass fittings that your drill into the wall have a long oval slot that can be installed in a way that allows you move the bar up and down a small fraction or side to side. I would do side to side not up or down, but this allows for small adjustments to ensure perfect alignment. Once I had the bar in place than I added the stationery glass wall and it worked great! Again, this saved me from having to move the stationery glass and bar in and out of the small shower area. I had a 60" tub and converted to shower. The shower and toilet are separate from sink area so the room was about 60" by 70" with the toilet in the way. Since I had already installed the toilet and there is a doorway in the way, I had enough room to do it as the instructions call for but it was easier doing the way I did it and it turned out great! But this video is what led to me to buying this door and it worked out nicely! Thank you! Also, I bought it directly from Woodbridge as well!
About to install tomorrow. Thankyou for posting this. The manufacturers instructions are a little "grey" in places (to be polite) Your methodology makes sense and Ill be using it with some of my own tweeks. Awesome video 👏🎬
Thank you for the nice video , where I can get the flat shim you got , and water black metal part . Also can I mount the bar on drywall ? Thanks a lot. ❤
Thanks for the video. It provided me with a very important reference point. According to the not-so-clear manufacturer’s instructions , the anti-splash guard is placed away from the sliding door. Initially my contractor and I followed the manual. Drops of water came out under the door during shower. Then I watched your video and had the guard re-positioned close to the sliding door just as you did in your video. Unfortunately it made the matter worse. I tested it by spraying water directly at the sliding door with a removable shower head (the manufacturer has such a spraying scene in their video clip to demonstrate how the anti-splashing guard works), there was a big splash of water, and the water spilled out under the door to the sloped marble threshold and then the guard was preventing the water from flowing back to the shower floor! So puddles of water remained on the marble threshold. So I had to ask my contractor to come back and move the metal guard back to its original position. To me, there seems to be a design issue. So 1) If it’s a frameless sliding door without a bottom track, 2) if the shower head (esp. removable shower head) is on the same side of the sliding door, and 3) if the shower area is small, is zero water splashing simply impossible to expect? And to guard against big splashes, positioning the metal guard (“ant-splash threshold”) away from the door as the manual instructed might be a better option? But again, I noticed that you placed it close to the sliding door instead of away from it.
Great comment/question. I'm actually working on a video that addresses a part of your issue, as I had some drops making their way over the metal guard after using the shower regularly. Light, but still annoying. Probably a design issue - I wonder how the manufacturer would respond! Anyway, in my case, there seemed to be a very, very small gap between the BOTTOM of the glass door and the TOP of the metal guard. Perhaps your gap is bigger - meaning your sliding door was installed a bit higher up. I wonder if you kept the metal guard close to the sliding glass door similar to how I did in the video, but build the metal guard up like 1/8" or so (with plastic or metal strip of some type on the underside, the hide with translucent caulking)...the idea being if the metal guard were TALLER...might this prevent water from being about to sneak under the glass door and over the metal guard? Or, if this theory is sound, I wonder if a single strip of clear caulking on the TOP of the metal guard (obviously, you wouldn't want it to touch / dry to the glass door) to make the metal guard "taller"? I did the latter and have ZERO spray sneaking out. I can't say if positioning the metal guard further back away from the door is better or worse.
I have made a living doing home repairs for 30 years. I have installed regular shower doors but never a frameless. I installed this door (with a different guide) in the summer of '22. Could not find any online info. Had to calculate height of bar numerous times and as a result, I have multiple holes in my tile, mostly covered by the bar. I handled the 83lb doors countless times. Water pooled outside on slate floor every time I showered. Eventually, I set 1/2" x 1/2" angle-aluminum and sealed with silicone caulk to the base under the open door. A couple of weeks ago, the slider door began to rub on the aluminum when attempting to open door. Yesterday, I spent hours making adjustments. I removed the sagging bar and bent it upwards. The "nuts" inside the bar fell out which took some doing to get back in place. I raised the fixed door and placed 3/8" spacers under in an attempt to not have bar bend in the future. Took shower and copious amounts of water flowed out onto the slate floor. Purchased another angle-aluminum, sealed it to the base with silicone caulk. I also sealed vertically between the fixed door and the wall tile. The slider tends to roll towards closed about 10". Good enough for now.
Is it possible to have the door that slides as the outside door? I like that look better because mine would be sliding to the right! Metal piece that attaches to the bottom of the tub would have to be turned which might’ve worked better for you because then it would have been on a flat surface instead of that bump
Very detailed video! One question. I am installing my 60" model in a fiberglass shower enclosure. The top bar will be above the top of the enclosure which in recessed from the wall about an inch. Is my only option to build out above the enclosure so that the wall is flush with the enclosure?
Good question. If the company doesn't any sell adjustable brackets or extensions, a build out may be the only option. My mind goes to 3 places: (a) adding a 1/2" thick piece of primed wood trim wrapped around the entire top, then some nice tile to cover it, with total wood/mortar/tile thickness measuring 1" and clear 100% silicone to seal any gaps, (b) finding & gluing a round metal 1" long hollow spacer (maybe trim this off the top bar if you can spare it or head to the hardware store) which visually matches the top bar finish, securing with some extra long lag bolts, (c) cutting and gluing a 1" thick piece of sealed wood (maybe 2" x 2") to act as a spacer, with a pre-drilled hole to make sure it doesn't split. Option C is probably the easiest? Sorry, that's all I got - maybe someone else has an idea?
your video is great. I was wondering your opinion on something. My installers did not install backer boards for the shower. Do you think snap toggles would support the weight of this shower door?
I wouldn't do it, if it were me. But you never know. I'd probably check the weight specifications provided by the snap toggle manufacturer and then call/email the shower door company to make sure. But you should still have wood studs to drill into, right?
wow! thanks for a great video. one quick question. if the threshold has a 3/16 to 1/4 slope towards the shower, are the shims sloped to account for the slope of the threshold?
1. Example, If my shower width is 47, should I cut 2 inches on the farther side of the roller bar? 48 - 1 inch wall difference - 1 inch guide rail bracket screw difference? 2. Right hand door installation in the instructions manual ,,,does it mean door knob is on the right hand side? 3 looks like I need to cut the anti splash threshold as well to the guide block?
100% silicone to seal, or adhesive silicone as “glue”…aff links are in description if you need exact info, but any of those are easily purchased in store as well
I think it was a good idea for longer screws for the top track. However the enclosed bolts appear to be stainless steel which are stronger and won't rust.
great video, I'm getting ready to install the door in the next week or so. I was wondering if you have a trim piece between your shower pan and tile? I usually see the tile done down to the pan and then just caulked. but it looked like you had some kind of trim. I have a fairly big gap and was wondering what I could use.
Good question. I used a PVC quarter round trim piece to hide the gap. If my tile had come down a bit more , 1/8" or so from the shower pan, 100% silicone would have done the trick. I had used PVC quarter round to cover gap between the floor tile edge and shower base, so I figured I'd trim out the inside of shower as well. I have a separate video on the PVC trim and how I did it - you can search my channel. But again, if your gap is small, just silicone it and be done. Good luck on your project!
@@tallcool1ifysounds like you installed your tile incorrectly. Not terrible design, terrible install. Tile should always go past the tub and to the floor to eliminate moisture to the drywall and delaminating. All the way to the alcove corner or 2-6” is best.
I'd cruise the aisles at the hardware. If no luck, try emailing Woodbridge, the company who made the shower door in the video...maybe they sell these pieces individually.
Great video! I just completed the same install. It went perfectly. Then I took my first shower - and as the shower area heated up and the door started to build up some condensation…it got a mind of its own and slowly started rolling open. And when fully opened it will slowly roll closed (towards the middle). Maybe if I install one or both of the splash strips (either vertical rubber or horizontal metal) that will supply just enough resistance so the door will stay put. Any ideas?
Weird. If it was level at install, I don't understand why it's moving on its own. I'd call the manufacturer. The only other idea is maybe a thin layer of 100% silicone added to the top of the bar, fully cured, might create the resistance you want.
I ended up cutting two tiny squares of (the same rough side of) velcro. Stuck one on the bottom of the top bar and the corresponding one on the top of one of the safety things on the door. When the door is closed the two pieces of velcro make contact and create just enough friction to hold the door closed. Works perfectly!
I have now installed about 5 of these doors for my homes. I think the round bar can flex ever so slightly in the middle causing this. I accounted for this on subsequent installs by making sure the door end of bar was ever so slightly lower off level (1/32" maybe) towards the door's closing direction. You can also add a slight bit of silicone adhesive on the bar so the roller passes over it and won't want to roll backward. Also, be careful of the weight of the door and closing. I was in the shower for the first time and closed the door (not that hard too) and it SHATTERED because the bottom of the door tapped the tiled wall slightly. Remember, the door is VERY heavy and has momentum. The stop on the bar prevented the TOP of the glass from going too far. But the bottom can continue to SWING past the adjusted stop distance desired. In addition to checking my clearance distances better, I added a 3/8" clear square bumper with self sticking to the wall down low in case a user closed the door too hard. It was pretty funny calling for my worker to come rescue me standing naked hoping the plastic safety sheeting in the glass kept it all together so we could open the now shattered door enough for me to escape. Oh, here's a little trick my worker passed along to me: To apply silicone cleanly, don't just squirt it into gaps using the caulking gun (like in the video) If you apply blue painters tape to both sides of the wall and both sides of the glass you create a slot to then squirt the silicone. Then run your finger down both sides removing the excess. After that, immediately, remove the blue tape. And now you have a clean edged application of silicone that you almost can't see.
We dry fitted the panel on the rail using 3/8 shim on the threshold. Leveled and plumb. After installing the rail/panel and removing the shim, the rail bows and the panel is not level anymore. Will adding the door balance it out or something? It seems that when the door is opened it will add even more weight and bowing.
@@diybandit They sent us a new bar. We aren't hopeful as it looks the same and other sites use a solid stainless bar, not a pipe. Any ideas as to how we could make this work?
@@diybandit installed the new rail. same bending in the middle of the rail, making the right glass panel fit tight against the tile at the bottom of the right wall. installed the door on the left and the door rolls to the middle. when the door is closed at the bottom, there is a large gap at the top. I don't know why 2 rails are not holding the weight of the glass. and no one else has had this problem.
From what I understand, the protective shatterproof film is typically applied to the inside of the shower enclosure. This placement helps prevent shattered glass from scattering into the bathroom in case of breakage. It serves as an added safety measure to minimize the risk of injury in the event that the shower glass is damaged. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions or consult with a professional installer to ensure correct placement for your specific shower enclosure.
I remember unpacking foam, etc. first, then carefully lifting out onto a soft surface. I had the help of a neighbor as opposed to doing it myself. Both glass pieces are awkward and heavy. It should NEVER be in contact with concrete or anything hard or it could crack. Extreme caution - always! Good luck.
The sliding door hangs and then rolls on the bar using the wheels, so yes, the wheels would need to be installed prior to lifting the sliding door onto the bar. Look at 24:58 in the video for how I did it and of course refer to the instruction manual.
First, thanks for the video. Second, and this is important, adding the bar and then measuring, like in the video, is the way to go. My husband thought we should use measurements instead. No!!!!! The measurements we used, from the comments are dead wrong. It's awkward, but put the stationary panel in place and mark the location on the walls. Trust me. The measurements people provided were about 1/2 or so too low. 😢 Had to remove brass brackets and start again with higher holes. It was almost a disaster. And you can see the old holes _slightly_ after redrilling. Anyway, should have used your method. Excellent door for the price.
I got the same door but for installing in a bathtub shower. I installed the bar but now the stationary glass is sitting directing on the sill of the tub with no gap. I can’t move the bar any further up without drilling new holes. Anyone else have this problem? I think I need to take it down and shim it an 1/8” from the tub and reinstall unless you have any other ideas.
I think we are having this type of problem. Used 3/8 plywood shim to dry fit and install. After install, slid out the shim and the bar bows putting the glass almost on the shower threshold. Did you figure out a solution?
Why wouldn't they just give the height dimension of the stationary door to the upper frame door mounts to the threshold? wouldn't it be easier the install the upper rail then install the stationary door?
the glass that close towards the wall is not straight to the wall, the bottom side is staying away from the wall leaving a gap between the glass and the wall, HOW DO I ADJUST THIS SO NO WATER COMES THROUGH THE GAP, the top side is at the wall and the bottom side is no ,,,,, thank you
You sound exactly like "Uncivil Law." Your vid autoplayed randomly (prob due to algorithm noticing I was looking at vids on frameless shower door repairs)...I thought "Why is Kurt (Uncivil Law) attempting to install a shower?"...lol. He seems like the kind of guy that couldn't assemble a 20-piece Lego dog house.
anyone else notice the idiotic manual for this product says "instructions are for right hand door installation" but he pictures are all with the sliding door on the LEFT and the stationary door on the right?? I called tech support and the guy confirmed its a mistake.
Your not showing how to install the bar after brass end pieces are secured....do you cut off another 1/2in from the door end of the bar? I'm trying To install this now...thank you
Thanks for your effort on the video. I purchased same door direct from distributor. I didn't follow the enclosed directions but built a story pole out of a saw guide and flat steel ruler. After coming up with my height above threshold of 73 5/16 I used a product called a Toggler as I have metal studs.
When cutting length on cross tube (if required) I again used my story pole instead of a tape measure. Remember the length represents the distance including the brass parts.
Self install went well but be well aware of the ability to handle 76" length with the weight of the glass.
The "bushings" would be better referenced as an eccentric and does offer a small degree of leveling.
I'm pleased with my door and a good value.
The most important advice is to place sliding panel inside the shower before installing stationary panel!
Again, thanks for your video as it gave me the confidence to go forward with my project.
Thanks for your comment and you're welcome! Enjoy the new door!
I'm in the middle and learning things as I go. I really appreciate the door in the tub first advise as well since it would have been brutal to place thru the opening.🥵
Don't measure! Mount the stationary panel and dry fit! That measurement did not work for me. Ask me how I know. 😢
Great video saved me a ton of money did it myself. One note from the manufacturer.-- Jacob by name. He told me the correct height for the wall bracket centered at 73 and 1/8 inches above the threshold. Jacob said they forgot to include that in the instruction manual. He also said the fixed door basically rests on the threshold and suggested, like you, just using silicone adhesive to keep it in place. You can adjust the height up or down a quarter of an inch using the small wheel on the roller. Point the allen wrench hole down to lower the door-- point it up to raise it. Super helpful. Thanks for saving me $800 install fee. The doors look awesome!!!!
Glad this helped and thanks for your comment - some great information there. Cheers!
We just installed this exact Woodbridge frameless shower door last week. The door was ordered off of Amazon for the awesome price of $639. It was delivered in a wooden crate.
I came here to compliment you on a great video that was so helpful I fully believe Woodbridge should include a link in their instruction manual which is only sufficient at best.
I watched the video all the way through first then would start and stop and watched each phase as I completed it. The end resting was beyond my expectations. Thx for a great instructional video!!
Thanks for the great feedback! I'm so glad this helped you. Cheers!
💐💐💐 I got you these flowers as a BIG, BIG THANKS for your awesome video! I must of watched your video 6 times preparing for the install. The instructions provided are a dumpster fire. It's beyond me that they don't provide something similar as clear as to what you have done. But, it is what it is and your video was my achor and navigator. Some heros don't wear capes.
So nice of you. Very glad I could help out. Cheers!
Great video. I'm about to embark on this same installation. I realize this video is a couple of years old but I would like to point out a couple of things. I believe the brass-colored brackets for the top bar should be installed with the slot verticle so it can help with height adjustment. Also, even though the brackets on the bottom are not providing a supporting load, I believe they have a side load on them. As gravity acts on the panel and the screws holding the bar to the wall are slipping over time, the panel will tend to rotate into the shower.
Excellent comment. Thanks!
One of the best DIY videos I've seen. Even paced, camera work is good and the explanations are complete.
Wow, thanks! What a compliment!
@@diybandit Just completed my project...One thing you might add. Make sure the internal threaded pieces on the main rod are firmly inplace. After cutting the pipe with my Chop Saw, both of the threaded pieces slide out of the end of the pipe! Realized that the smallest allen wrench can be used to tightened in place..
It's true! I think we'll just follow your video instead of following the directions. Did it really only take you 38 minutes to install this? @@diybandit
PUT SLIDING DOOR IN SHOWER BEFORE INSTALLING FIXED DOOR. For those who don't watch the ENTIRE video before following along
Thank you so much
Thanks for this. Installing this door on a tub/shower tomorrow on a bathroom I remodeled. Thanks for the repeated references I can come back to tomorrow while I’m in the thick of it.
Very helpful video…it looks like maybe you set your bar height at 73-1/4…I think this is 3/4 higher than the 72.5 mark…what was your gap from bottom of door to threshold (maybe I missed this in the video) and/or how or why did you select 73-1/4 to install the top bar?
Just installed these doors today, it was a challenge with the weight of the doors but your video helped tremendously!! Great job!
Thank you so much for this helpful video
Most welcome 😊
Thank you for the video, great tips for the DIYer. My measurement with the tiling completed is 58 " width and 81" height (measured from the top of threshold of the shower basin to the ceiling). Will I be able to install model MBSDC6076? I have only 5" (81 minus 76) to hang up the rolling door? Question 1 - What is the actual height of the rolling door? In the Woodbridge web site, the schematic shows 76” as measured from the floor and not from the threshold. Question 2 - where exactly do you drill the hole for the screw for the wall bracket (page 16 Fig 7)? The slot is not a hole but oblong shape .
great explanation! Very detailed 👍👍👍👍
Glad you liked it!
I just installed this door. Very nice door and the video instructions were pretty much spot on. I also used the glue method. Now that I have it up, I'm a little miffed about the color. I feel like its greener in real life than on the video. I wonder if the manufacturer does a low iron version? Anyone know?
Great Video! I just installed this door this weekend! Because of the size of the space of the shower I did not follow the instructions of assembling the bar and stationery glass wall to dry fit. I measure the stationery glass to ensure it was 76" then I measured the center of the hole where the glass is being held in place to the bar and it turned out to be 3" from the top. So I drew my point of where to drill at 73 1/8" above threshold on both sides. I made sure these markings were center with threshold and exactly 73 1/8 above the threshold. This allowed me to install the bar first and I ensured it was level. The brass fittings that your drill into the wall have a long oval slot that can be installed in a way that allows you move the bar up and down a small fraction or side to side. I would do side to side not up or down, but this allows for small adjustments to ensure perfect alignment. Once I had the bar in place than I added the stationery glass wall and it worked great! Again, this saved me from having to move the stationery glass and bar in and out of the small shower area. I had a 60" tub and converted to shower. The shower and toilet are separate from sink area so the room was about 60" by 70" with the toilet in the way. Since I had already installed the toilet and there is a doorway in the way, I had enough room to do it as the instructions call for but it was easier doing the way I did it and it turned out great! But this video is what led to me to buying this door and it worked out nicely! Thank you! Also, I bought it directly from Woodbridge as well!
Thanks for sharing! Glad it turned out!
You’re my hero
Excellent Video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
About to install tomorrow. Thankyou for posting this. The manufacturers instructions are a little "grey" in places (to be polite)
Your methodology makes sense and Ill be using it with some of my own tweeks. Awesome video 👏🎬
Thanks for your comment - good luck!
Kev, don't leave us hanging here pal. How did yours turn out? Enquiring minds are dying to know. How many earls did it take for you to complete it?
Great practical tips. especially on that bottom guide leveling!
Excellent! Answered all my questions and had helpful suggestions. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for commenting!
How many hours did it take you to put up? Anybody
It took us about 4 to 5 hours.
@@diybandit need some one one help!!
And phone help??
Grasias por este vídeo
Acabo de terminar de instalar la puerta Grasias a este vídeo 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Saludos
No hay de que - me alegro de que haya salido bien
Very well done. Attention to detail at its best. Thank you for taking the time to share this installation. Very helpful tips. Best regards.
What a compliment…thank YOU!!
Thank you mister you are such a teacher 🫡
haha, appreciate that!
Watching this video was helpful. Mines turned out A1. Thx
Great to hear! Glad this helped.
Too us 4 to 5 hiurs
Thank you for the nice video , where I can get the flat shim you got , and water black metal part . Also can I mount the bar on drywall ? Thanks a lot. ❤
Thanks for the video. It provided me with a very important reference point. According to the not-so-clear manufacturer’s instructions , the anti-splash guard is placed away from the sliding door. Initially my contractor and I followed the manual. Drops of water came out under the door during shower. Then I watched your video and had the guard re-positioned close to the sliding door just as you did in your video. Unfortunately it made the matter worse. I tested it by spraying water directly at the sliding door with a removable shower head (the manufacturer has such a spraying scene in their video clip to demonstrate how the anti-splashing guard works), there was a big splash of water, and the water spilled out under the door to the sloped marble threshold and then the guard was preventing the water from flowing back to the shower floor! So puddles of water remained on the marble threshold. So I had to ask my contractor to come back and move the metal guard back to its original position. To me, there seems to be a design issue. So 1) If it’s a frameless sliding door without a bottom track, 2) if the shower head (esp. removable shower head) is on the same side of the sliding door, and 3) if the shower area is small, is zero water splashing simply impossible to expect? And to guard against big splashes, positioning the metal guard (“ant-splash threshold”) away from the door as the manual instructed might be a better option? But again, I noticed that you placed it close to the sliding door instead of away from it.
Great comment/question. I'm actually working on a video that addresses a part of your issue, as I had some drops making their way over the metal guard after using the shower regularly. Light, but still annoying. Probably a design issue - I wonder how the manufacturer would respond! Anyway, in my case, there seemed to be a very, very small gap between the BOTTOM of the glass door and the TOP of the metal guard. Perhaps your gap is bigger - meaning your sliding door was installed a bit higher up. I wonder if you kept the metal guard close to the sliding glass door similar to how I did in the video, but build the metal guard up like 1/8" or so (with plastic or metal strip of some type on the underside, the hide with translucent caulking)...the idea being if the metal guard were TALLER...might this prevent water from being about to sneak under the glass door and over the metal guard? Or, if this theory is sound, I wonder if a single strip of clear caulking on the TOP of the metal guard (obviously, you wouldn't want it to touch / dry to the glass door) to make the metal guard "taller"? I did the latter and have ZERO spray sneaking out. I can't say if positioning the metal guard further back away from the door is better or worse.
Hey - sorry for the delay. This video is hot off the press. Hopefully, it helps: th-cam.com/video/qkhCGrNt_yA/w-d-xo.html
I have made a living doing home repairs for 30 years. I have installed regular shower doors but never a frameless. I installed this door (with a different guide) in the summer of '22. Could not find any online info. Had to calculate height of bar numerous times and as a result, I have multiple holes in my tile, mostly covered by the bar. I handled the 83lb doors countless times. Water pooled outside on slate floor every time I showered. Eventually, I set 1/2" x 1/2" angle-aluminum and sealed with silicone caulk to the base under the open door. A couple of weeks ago, the slider door began to rub on the aluminum when attempting to open door. Yesterday, I spent hours making adjustments. I removed the sagging bar and bent it upwards. The "nuts" inside the bar fell out which took some doing to get back in place. I raised the fixed door and placed 3/8" spacers under in an attempt to not have bar bend in the future. Took shower and copious amounts of water flowed out onto the slate floor. Purchased another angle-aluminum, sealed it to the base with silicone caulk. I also sealed vertically between the fixed door and the wall tile. The slider tends to roll towards closed about 10". Good enough for now.
Sounds terrible! Not my experience at all. Hope you work it out.
Is it possible to have the door that slides as the outside door? I like that look better because mine would be sliding to the right! Metal piece that attaches to the bottom of the tub would have to be turned which might’ve worked better for you because then it would have been on a flat surface instead of that bump
Very detailed video! One question. I am installing my 60" model in a fiberglass shower enclosure. The top bar will be above the top of the enclosure which in recessed from the wall about an inch. Is my only option to build out above the enclosure so that the wall is flush with the enclosure?
Good question. If the company doesn't any sell adjustable brackets or extensions, a build out may be the only option. My mind goes to 3 places: (a) adding a 1/2" thick piece of primed wood trim wrapped around the entire top, then some nice tile to cover it, with total wood/mortar/tile thickness measuring 1" and clear 100% silicone to seal any gaps, (b) finding & gluing a round metal 1" long hollow spacer (maybe trim this off the top bar if you can spare it or head to the hardware store) which visually matches the top bar finish, securing with some extra long lag bolts, (c) cutting and gluing a 1" thick piece of sealed wood (maybe 2" x 2") to act as a spacer, with a pre-drilled hole to make sure it doesn't split. Option C is probably the easiest? Sorry, that's all I got - maybe someone else has an idea?
@@diybandit Thank you for responding! Wish me luck!
your video is great. I was wondering your opinion on something. My installers did not install backer boards for the shower. Do you think snap toggles would support the weight of this shower door?
I wouldn't do it, if it were me. But you never know. I'd probably check the weight specifications provided by the snap toggle manufacturer and then call/email the shower door company to make sure. But you should still have wood studs to drill into, right?
This is lovely KELEGIL from Nigeria
This was a very well explained video!! Thanks
You're very welcome!
wow! thanks for a great video. one quick question. if the threshold has a 3/16 to 1/4 slope towards the shower, are the shims sloped to account for the slope of the threshold?
Wished I knew that answer.
1. Example, If my shower width is 47, should I cut 2 inches on the farther side of the roller bar?
48 - 1 inch wall difference - 1 inch guide rail bracket screw difference?
2. Right hand door installation in the instructions manual ,,,does it mean door knob is on the right hand side?
3 looks like I need to cut the anti splash threshold as well to the guide block?
Is this a true soft close door as they advertise?
I don’t think mine was advertised as soft close (and it’s not).
great video, what is the name of the silicone adhesive you used.
100% silicone to seal, or adhesive silicone as “glue”…aff links are in description if you need exact info, but any of those are easily purchased in store as well
I think it was a good idea for longer screws for the top track. However the enclosed bolts appear to be stainless steel which are stronger and won't rust.
Sorry, I meant the enclosed screws, not bolts. I have the exact same assembly which I am about to install. Great video.
@@stevewright7233how long did it take?
great video. thanks
You are welcome!
Great, detailed informative video. I especially like the splash guard, very good idea. Is the sliding hardware easy to clean/maintain?
Thanks for the compliment. Yes, very easy to clean.
I have a 5/8" gap on the bottom. How much adjustment did you have on the roller hinges? It's really frustrating. Everything is level and plumb.
👍🏽🙏🏾how did the silicone glue hold up ?????
Still going strong!
great video, I'm getting ready to install the door in the next week or so. I was wondering if you have a trim piece between your shower pan and tile? I usually see the tile done down to the pan and then just caulked. but it looked like you had some kind of trim. I have a fairly big gap and was wondering what I could use.
Good question. I used a PVC quarter round trim piece to hide the gap. If my tile had come down a bit more , 1/8" or so from the shower pan, 100% silicone would have done the trick. I had used PVC quarter round to cover gap between the floor tile edge and shower base, so I figured I'd trim out the inside of shower as well. I have a separate video on the PVC trim and how I did it - you can search my channel. But again, if your gap is small, just silicone it and be done. Good luck on your project!
Just tried to fit the door and realized the tile can't be set back from the tub face. Terrible design!
@@tallcool1ifysounds like you installed your tile incorrectly. Not terrible design, terrible install. Tile should always go past the tub and to the floor to eliminate moisture to the drywall and delaminating. All the way to the alcove corner or 2-6” is best.
Great video!!!
Where can I find the plastic shields at 32:30 and metal shield at 35:15.
I’m having trouble with splash.
I'd cruise the aisles at the hardware. If no luck, try emailing Woodbridge, the company who made the shower door in the video...maybe they sell these pieces individually.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video! I just completed the same install. It went perfectly. Then I took my first shower - and as the shower area heated up and the door started to build up some condensation…it got a mind of its own and slowly started rolling open. And when fully opened it will slowly roll closed (towards the middle). Maybe if I install one or both of the splash strips (either vertical rubber or horizontal metal) that will supply just enough resistance so the door will stay put. Any ideas?
Weird. If it was level at install, I don't understand why it's moving on its own. I'd call the manufacturer. The only other idea is maybe a thin layer of 100% silicone added to the top of the bar, fully cured, might create the resistance you want.
I ended up cutting two tiny squares of (the same rough side of) velcro. Stuck one on the bottom of the top bar and the corresponding one on the top of one of the safety things on the door. When the door is closed the two pieces of velcro make contact and create just enough friction to hold the door closed. Works perfectly!
I have now installed about 5 of these doors for my homes. I think the round bar can flex ever so slightly in the middle causing this. I accounted for this on subsequent installs by making sure the door end of bar was ever so slightly lower off level (1/32" maybe) towards the door's closing direction. You can also add a slight bit of silicone adhesive on the bar so the roller passes over it and won't want to roll backward.
Also, be careful of the weight of the door and closing. I was in the shower for the first time and closed the door (not that hard too) and it SHATTERED because the bottom of the door tapped the tiled wall slightly. Remember, the door is VERY heavy and has momentum. The stop on the bar prevented the TOP of the glass from going too far. But the bottom can continue to SWING past the adjusted stop distance desired. In addition to checking my clearance distances better, I added a 3/8" clear square bumper with self sticking to the wall down low in case a user closed the door too hard.
It was pretty funny calling for my worker to come rescue me standing naked hoping the plastic safety sheeting in the glass kept it all together so we could open the now shattered door enough for me to escape.
Oh, here's a little trick my worker passed along to me: To apply silicone cleanly, don't just squirt it into gaps using the caulking gun (like in the video) If you apply blue painters tape to both sides of the wall and both sides of the glass you create a slot to then squirt the silicone. Then run your finger down both sides removing the excess. After that, immediately, remove the blue tape. And now you have a clean edged application of silicone that you almost can't see.
Sum pattern on the glass would be nice.
We dry fitted the panel on the rail using 3/8 shim on the threshold. Leveled and plumb. After installing the rail/panel and removing the shim, the rail bows and the panel is not level anymore. Will adding the door balance it out or something? It seems that when the door is opened it will add even more weight and bowing.
I did not have this problem, so I can't say. What's the status - did you figure it out?
@@diybandit They sent us a new bar. We aren't hopeful as it looks the same and other sites use a solid stainless bar, not a pipe.
Any ideas as to how we could make this work?
@@diybandit installed the new rail. same bending in the middle of the rail, making the right glass panel fit tight against the tile at the bottom of the right wall. installed the door on the left and the door rolls to the middle. when the door is closed at the bottom, there is a large gap at the top. I don't know why 2 rails are not holding the weight of the glass. and no one else has had this problem.
@@octamamma Woodbridge has been very understanding and working to figure it out. No one else has noticeable deflection in the rail?
Is the protective shatter proof film supposed to be on inside or outside of shower? Or it doesn't matter?
From what I understand, the protective shatterproof film is typically applied to the inside of the shower enclosure. This placement helps prevent shattered glass from scattering into the bathroom in case of breakage. It serves as an added safety measure to minimize the risk of injury in the event that the shower glass is damaged. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions or consult with a professional installer to ensure correct placement for your specific shower enclosure.
Any suggestions for how to get the glass out of the box?
I remember unpacking foam, etc. first, then carefully lifting out onto a soft surface. I had the help of a neighbor as opposed to doing it myself. Both glass pieces are awkward and heavy. It should NEVER be in contact with concrete or anything hard or it could crack. Extreme caution - always! Good luck.
Were you able to get a replacement piece of glass from the manufacturer? We had a mishap at our house today!
Yes, I called and submitted photos per their process. Easy! Did you figure it out?
In order to reverse the shower doors you have to unscrew the guide on the bottom and reverse that as well. I didn't see that in your video.
Oops, nice catch. Very true, but easy enough to do.
What is the name of the small piece of plastic that you glued on the tub and where can I get it?
It was a plastic shim. I'll try to find it and put an affiliate link in the description.
What height should bar holes be drilled?
thank-you
You bet!
Do you have to install the wheels before put the door on the bar?
The sliding door hangs and then rolls on the bar using the wheels, so yes, the wheels would need to be installed prior to lifting the sliding door onto the bar. Look at 24:58 in the video for how I did it and of course refer to the instruction manual.
Thanks. I was looking for instructions on how to install rod and camera view didn't catch it and you skipped over toughest part
......
Ah man bummer! Sorry about that
First, thanks for the video.
Second, and this is important, adding the bar and then measuring, like in the video, is the way to go. My husband thought we should use measurements instead. No!!!!!
The measurements we used, from the comments are dead wrong. It's awkward, but put the stationary panel in place and mark the location on the walls. Trust me. The measurements people provided were about 1/2 or so too low. 😢 Had to remove brass brackets and start again with higher holes. It was almost a disaster. And you can see the old holes _slightly_ after redrilling.
Anyway, should have used your method.
Excellent door for the price.
Dude you're fucking brilliant. Dremel to cut the bar. Structural screws (these are thinner and stronger than lag bolts)
Thank you so much for making this video. The instructions were terrible.
You're welcome!
Been about a year now is the adhesive still holding strong?
Great question. Adhesive seems rock-strong still - no movement or issues more than a year later.
Thank you! Makes me life easier sense it is strong
Found any one with this shower door tell me the diameter of the top bar? Thank you
I got the same door but for installing in a bathtub shower. I installed the bar but now the stationary glass is sitting directing on the sill of the tub with no gap. I can’t move the bar any further up without drilling new holes. Anyone else have this problem? I think I need to take it down and shim it an 1/8” from the tub and reinstall unless you have any other ideas.
I think we are having this type of problem. Used 3/8 plywood shim to dry fit and install. After install, slid out the shim and the bar bows putting the glass almost on the shower threshold. Did you figure out a solution?
Why wouldn't they just give the height dimension of the stationary door to the upper frame door mounts to the threshold? wouldn't it be easier the install the upper rail then install the stationary door?
I cant find this info ANYWHERE. Nothing will tell you how high to install this from threshold.
the glass that close towards the wall is not straight to the wall, the bottom side is staying away from the wall leaving a gap between the glass and the wall, HOW DO I ADJUST THIS SO NO WATER COMES THROUGH THE GAP, the top side is at the wall and the bottom side is no ,,,,, thank you
You sound exactly like "Uncivil Law." Your vid autoplayed randomly (prob due to algorithm noticing I was looking at vids on frameless shower door repairs)...I thought "Why is Kurt (Uncivil Law) attempting to install a shower?"...lol. He seems like the kind of guy that couldn't assemble a 20-piece Lego dog house.
That is a very unique comment. I like it.
CANT STRESS ENOUGH!!!! PUT THAT SLIDING DOOR IN BATHTUB OR SHOWER BEFORE INSTALLING THE STAIONARY. YOULL REGRET IT IF YOU DONT
Omg so true. Guess that happened to you?
Why, what's the deal?
@@diybandit no, I lucked out and did it right the first time for a change. It would’ve been nearly impossible to do so had I not.
@@TimStJohn-xp8rv read comment ^
Do not save money on this pain in the arse door.
anyone else notice the idiotic manual for this product says "instructions are for right hand door installation" but he pictures are all with the sliding door on the LEFT and the stationary door on the right?? I called tech support and the guy confirmed its a mistake.
Your not showing how to install the bar after brass end pieces are secured....do you cut off another 1/2in from the door end of the bar? I'm trying To install this now...thank you