Installing a Diesel Heater on a Boat [Adventure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2019
- How well do the cheap diesel bus heaters work? How do you install one? Watch how we install a forced air diesel heater onboard our sailboat, Makara. We come up with a good location and mounting bracket and discuss exhaust line runs, then it’s time for some warm, dry heat in the cold, rainy Pacific Northwest!
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Footage from November 2019
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Great video. A few points.
The muffler that comes with these units is not gas tight. It has been designed to sit under a vehicle with the water drain hole downwards. Obviously that can't be done with a boat. It is possible to get get gas-tight marine mufflers, but they are not cheap. You can also get marine water traps to get the condensation (which will build up) out of the lowest part of the exhaust without letting exhaust gas out.
Also, taking the heating air from inside the cabin rather than outside the boat, and recirculating it, can lead to an increase in relative (and absolute) humidity and make condensation problems more likely.
The input air for the actual combustion chamber must come from outside - that's a safety thing.
Happy New Year to you both. I am sure that 2020 will be a great adventure for you.
Thanks for running through the specifics and we know that the muffler drain hole is not going to work for us with the angles here but had not thought about the leakage into the cabin.. Good news is we have a CO2 sniffer there to warn of dangerous levels until we get another solution in place, we like the idea of the water trap which we had initially planned for but could not seem to find anyone selling them, we must be searching for the wrong thing.
Our plan with the heating air currently comes for outside draft air without being air tight sealed through a hatch above the galley and under the dodger, that part will be a test and if we do not like the quality of dry heat or humidity levels. We are also curious about the performance of the unit with not having a direct inlet of air from the outside which of course will be a problem if there is CO2 leaking into the cabin as well.
@@AdventureAdriftSailing I'm based in the UK and got my water trap from ebay - it was actually made in Turkey. Have a peek at the my December video (the 2nd one I think). Where I retro-fitted it. I had already done the exhaust without the water trap - but then changed my mind. I also did a specific humidity test with taking the air from the inside and then the outside - I think that one is is November.
And if I do mention any measurements - they are all in metric ;)
I was about to suggest checking out "Just About Sailing's " excellent videos on inside / outside air and humidity! You got there first!
Just about sailing that makes zero sense. How would recirculating indoor air increase humidity? That’s exactly how every home unit works, plus the outdoor air is very humid how would that even make sense?
@@Juggernaut-fg2up I am guessing that you are from a hotter part of the world than me. The amount of water air can hold is based on the temperature of the air. So in Miami the air outside would mostly be 'wetter' than the air inside. In the UK the air outside is almost always colder and much, much drier.
Have a look at a couple of videos I did - one Theory and one a Practical experiment (November 2019).
My ideal solution whilst I was living aboard and hooked up to mains power was to run a dessicant de-humidifier which, indeed, did re-cyle the air and worked great. A normal compressor type of de-humidifier just doesn't work in UK Winter temperatures.
As someone once said - the best way of keeping warm in a boat is to keep it in warm water.
Cheers
Paul
I just installed the same heater on my boat. Technically had same heater on my previous boat. I absolutely love it.
First your diesel filter is installed backwards. You want the contaminates to go to the outside of filter paper so you can visually see when it is clogged up. In the way it is installed you won’t be able to see that.
Second as others have mentioned the stock exhaust is not air tight and will leak into the cabin. They are designed to be mounted outside an automobile where leakage doesn’t matter. There are long cylindrical ones available. I used exhaust paste available at auto part stores and sealed the muffler, then wrapped the seams, then the whole muffler with aluminum foil air conditioning duct tape.
Lastly make sure you have a good CO detector.
Hit me up if you guys make it to LA, would love to buy you guys dinner.
Thanks Matt, you idea to wrap and seal the muffler is a simple and good solution and like you said a good CO detector goes a long way which we have right now and feel safe with that running but a permanent solution will have to be found. What do you have as a way to get condensation out of the exhaust?
As of right now no way to get it out. I do agree we need them. “Just About Sailing” did a great video on relative humidity levels and what he bought for a muffler and water extractor. Thinking I may go with both. It is tough to find anything here in US because nothing is metric.
Lose the muffler that came with it! They are not fully sealed along all the edges and will leak CO into the interior. I found a long cylindrical muffler on ebay that is fully welded. I've got the same one installed will almost all the identical parts (except the muffler) on my Morgan OI 41. 1 outlet in the main cabin and one in the aft cabin. the heat is great! Don't forget to plumb the combustion inlet to the outside too!
Thanks for the suggestion, we will look into other mufflers. We haven't decided on plumbing the inlet air outside yet, that is our plan if we are unhappy with performance in any way since that is an easy modification, right now we have it below a protected hatch that is open with outside draft air and we hope that will be enough.
@@AdventureAdriftSailing The issue with not having the combustion air plumbed to the outside is. When your unit soots up ( and it will) it will back flow smoke and exhaust through the intake. If its in the cabin you'll see smoke in the interior.
for the exhaust I used one of these (not cheap but sealed)
www.ebay.ca/itm/Webasto-Eberspacher-Leakproof-24mm-Stainless-Marine-exhaust-Silencer-Muffler/323245898701?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I support the metric system! Thanks for all the videos in 2019. Looking forward to watching in 2020. Happy New Year!
I've had one of the $200 Chinese versions in my Vanagon for the last couple of years, it's been fantastic. Hardly uses any fuel or power and keeps me toasty, I love it.
Hi guys! Great episode 👍 Just a thought about your installation; when you’re installing the heater it should be installed in a very well ventilated place in the boat. You want to take in new, dry and fresh air into the cabin and press out the wet and used air. With a installation like yours you will accumulate both moisture and
carbon dioxide and you don’t want that. We are using the same heater in -4 degrees Fahrenheit/-20 degrees Celsius without problems. Love following your journey. All the best from northern Norway 🇳🇴
Happy new years guys! One of our best memories of 2019 was getting to meet you two in Honolulu. Consider adding a second C02 detector in any sleeping cabin where the doors get closed. Especially if they share a wall to your engine room. Also you might want to look at this product "Permatex Ultra Copper RTV High-Temp Gasket Maker" to seal your exhaust fittings. If you sail or drive north to Vancouver Island this year, please add a visit to Ladysmith to your plans. Dinner and beer is on us. Cheers, Anne & Mark Topping
As usual--I'm impressed with the time and energy you put into refitting your boat(s). I recently purchased a Valiant 40 with an Espar diesel heater. I'm anxious to try it out.
LOVE the Valiants.. Nice heat on the Espars.
I've installed a couple of these heaters in boats and there are a couple of things to keep in mind, the exhaust hose gets hot enough to start a fire so make sure to have it shielded all the way to the outlet. The exhaust gas exiting through your cabin side will be hot enough to give a person a severe burn and melt anything it's bowing on. We also wouldn't install one of these heaters without at least one marine grade CO detector.
Good video guys. Dont forget to fit a Co2 alarm on the boat. Sail Safe. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
Agree with Ty metric is so much easier.
Great video as usual :) Happy New Year :)
agree with the metric system we dont use 3/8`s of a dollar to buy a can of coke ! ,
Oh i have had a chinese diesel heater in my 32 foot RV (Thats 9.75 meters ) for 3 years , No dramas but run it flat out for 20 minuets or so every 50 hours use or it will soot up , They do say keep the ehuste as short as posable ,, Great vid ,
R.J.T Traveling the east coast of Australia ,,,
Hello, I have had a planar heater for 5 years now and been very happy with the heater. word of advice is just before the fuel pump make it to where you can disconnect the fuel line or put a tea in the line...( that's what I did after the learning curve) and put fuel line in the gal of Kerosene and run it on high temp for a hour or longer each month and it will burn all the soot out of the exhaust chamber and you will not have any problems. Kerosene is $5 a gal at Walmart and a gal last me 6 to 8 months. I also wrapped the exhaust hose with heat/ muffler tape and you can hold it without burning your hand. all car parts places has it. I did not use the muffler and it is quiet. Have a good day and enjoy the heater.
I have bought and installed the ebay 'cheap chinese diesel heater' for $100 on my boat and it works great! DO NOT use the muffler that is supplied for a boat installation! It is meant to be installed under a van and has a drain hole and will produce carbon monoxide! There are proper boat style mufflers that will work if you want to buy them from Sure Marine Seattle. I did not see where you are supplying the heater with its combustion air intake from. It needs to be from outside the living space. If you are careful with the fuel you are putting in the plastic supply tank do not use a filter. It will just leak eventually. One last bit of advice order the 'Afterburner' control from the dude in Australia to control the heater. Its only about 50 bucks and has a way better display and has Bluetooth and WiFi connection options. I am happy to discuss more on the heather via email or phone if you would like. Its nice staying warm onboard in winter in the PNW!
Aloha, I think if you need a heater, you need to be further south!!! Thanks for sharing, as far as metric vs. imperial I think it is what you grew up with. I use both depending on what is called for, but years ago I converted metric to imperial as I didn't have metric tools. Now in modern times my digital read outs switch back and forth with a push of a button. Mahalo for sharing Happy New Year for 2020.
As for a heat shield the best type is Stainless Steel bent around 1/4 “ concrete wall board found at Home Depo in the old days we use to use asbestos. This would be installed with S.S. Self tapers drilled through the face of the shield with a type of fender washer “ decretive “. Some times the heat shield would be installed with an air gap between it and the bulkhead depending upon how hot the pipe gets.
We too are installing a diesel heater and I had my husband watch your video and wanted me to warn you of some of the areas that were done incorrectly and need attention but I see many below have stated the same about the muffler
And the exhaust pipe will get extremely hot so it needs to be changed as well. Good luck
That's way to funny. A Kilometer, Nautical mile and Statute Mile, not to mention Fathoms are all a mind set. Yards, feet and inches are made up of fractions. Fractions got us Yanks to the moon. Go with what ya know.
@Susan Hahn . My tool box (as an armature DIY Mechanic) has both ASE and Metric. As a world traveler I have come to make these conversions as second nature. My kids learned fractions and decimals via an AMERICAN tape measure and a slide rule, before I allowed them a calculator, I "Personally" think they are far better for it. Don't get me wrong, they also learned the metric system... Not to mention they can read an analog clock! LMAO
And I do not care who you are... Ask ANY mechanic which sockets or wrenches go missing first! I will GUARANTEE the answer will be 1/2 inch or 10 Millimeter!
Nice one.. Have a happy new year...
What a beautiful diesel heater install. Though it might kill you and let me explain why. Number one the exhaust has at least three major issues. Number one the muffler likely leaks a lot. I have one and none of the edges are sealed well. Also you can see inside your cabinet when you show it there is a drip hole visible which goes to the inside of the muffler exposed to exhaust. So it is constantly leaking exhaust into the cabinet. This leads into the second potentially lethal situation. Why does a muffler need a drip hole? Well it is because hot and cold things condense moisture in the air. This leads to water in the exhaust system. Have you ever been behind a car in cold air and there is water pouring out the exhaust? Well that is condensation that collected inside the exhaust. Ok, that leads to potentially lethal situation three. The manuals for these things generally say that you have to install the exhaust pipes downward. That is so the condensation will drain out the exhaust. With your exhaust run the way it is it will not drain. What will happen when it doesn't drain? Well not much immediately. The thing is over time there will be a point in the exhaust pipe where water pools, and as the unit operates it will burn off the water...BUT...at the same time it will deposit diesel soot onto the water. The water makes the soot stick....and as you use the unit more and more the soot builds up more and more. So eventually you get a big lump of soot in the pipe.....so did you ever stick a banana in a tailpipe? It can backfire and flashfire. A better place for the heater would have been in the cabinet with a short exhaust run. The exhaust could drain downwards yet still not have to really worry about wave action. Now you can cap the exhaust with a copper or plastic cap, and you can extend the exhaust on the outside with a copper pipe...Then you can use the muffler. Also wrap the exhaust pipe. I hope this helps!! Sorry not tying to be a G.I.T.
Soot+water+heat+time is also a recipe for corrosion on most any metal, so you can also just get holes in the exhaust which will leak CO into the cabin. This is not an atypical condition on diesel engine exhausts.
@@jeremyrainman Yep to the corrosion, the water trap idea at the exhaust end is the idea we like best.
Unfortunately like most things on the boat it is difficult to get above the water line, to try and find space in an area with a low COG and facing fore and aft would be critical, would have loved to run the exhaust on a downhill run but I do not believe anyone has done this that we have seen. Usually you have ones close to the water line and then a water loop in the line.
@@AdventureAdriftSailing Build the water trap on the outside of the boat with copper pipes and a drain. Just like a P-trap or S-trap under the sink might be the right thing, with a hole at the bottom to drain condensate on the first loop that comes out of the boat. That way if a boarding wave hits it will get caught in the trap and will drain outside just like a dorade box. You can make it so it is right outside the exhaust port flat up against the side there by the outlet. It has to drain the condensate. All that exhaust pipe is a recipe for disaster. Yes it won't be as efficient at mixing the air at the top of the cabinet, but you might be able to fix that rather than the exhaust issue. Also I am fairly sure with all the turns it exceeds the maximum pipe run for the exhaust. The Esper manual (which these are Esper clones)says something like eight feet max with one turn or something(I didn't look it up just going on memory) Every turn reduces the length of the pipe allowable.
@@AdventureAdriftSailing Also you can plumb the air intake the same way with another through hull fitting. It prbably doesn't matter about the combustion air so much as the boat is pretty big and leaks enough air in to get the job done, but it is an option. Stainless pipe is also an good option. So the pipe would come out and right angle down, then come across where a little drain hole would be(big enough to drain water fast but not big enough to allow water to come in too fast) then it should angle up and go higher than the outlet, angle across, then drop down past the outlet and bottom of the other trap and then a little tip to shove it aout from the boat. It would probably be a good idea to have a bigger pip for the condensate drain hole so that water coming in would have a place to go but not essentially clog up the main outlet...think of it as a reservoir. Also I am pretty sure tht the Esper manual does not account for having to pump the exhaust up so far...so that probably reduces pipe length even more.
On the heater ? When heeling over under sail you will get sea water back flowing in the exhaust of the heater if the exhaust is plumbed out through the hull. This type system is typically done through the deck with a “ Charlie nobble “ .
I installed a diesel Wobasto, and one "rule" I was suppose to follow was to allow moisture (condensation) in the exhaust hose to drain by gravity. I installed the unit up high within the cabin. In the future you might install a CO detector since rust will be accelerated if the exhaust hose has a low spot.?????? Maybe periodically inspect it.
It looks like others have brought up the crappy/leaky muffler, better ones are online.... you don't want to wake up with a halo & wings quite yet, hahaha! 🍾🥂🎉
***Happy New Year guys***
Good vid ya'll.
Tie me kangaroo down sport... channeling Rolf Harris
I'll break out the wobble board
You must have the air intet to the Heather be taken from outsider the boat, and the Exhush mufler is not save, you must change it to marine Exhush , this type of Heather is running Best with Furesø air from outside and you most have a oxide alarm. Happy new YEAR to both of you.
What type of diesel heater you guys buy there s a few out there I’ve been looking into
4 1/2". Easy -peasy!
Oh dear. Just nearly got gassed from the diesel heater on my boat so thought I had better give you some warnings based on my experience in addition to other comments.
Firstly I used to be a marine engineer for 20 years so now retired bought a 15 meter boat with a Wabasco already fitted by the builder. After some research (manufactures installation manuals) found the the whole system had not been installed correctly, so basically refitted it.
Point one (and most important) the heater should not be installed inside the boat, in the lazarete with no connection to the inside other than the ducting. In my case the air inlet was from inside the lazarete so piped in an inlet from both the inside and from outside the lazarete, with a Y valve so I could use the cold fresh air inlet option. Also on Wabasco the thermostat is on the inlet so the heater was always running flat out as the incoming air was cold.
The manual says you should NEVER have the cabin air inlet and the combustion air inlet from the same area, or have the exhaust in the same area in case it leaks. The heater surface also gets very hot, so mounting on or near wood is maybe not such a good idea.
The manual also suggests that the system is 40% more efficient if the heat ducting is insulated, made a big difference on mine.
I did run into a problem, with the increased efficiency I got after the reinstall found the heater was overpowered and is now runs on low load most of the time causing to to soot up. Solution, give is a blast before shutting it down.
Now here's how I almost got gassed, heater came on automatically an hour before I get up, as normal, when I got us I almost collapsed, with the cabin spinning, so staggered out into the fresh air. I had two CO digital alarm monitors. Neither had gone into alarm. but were 10-14ppm. Even more confusing was that the monitors were still reading the same outside the boat, so initially though they were faulty.
After much searching figured out that with the still morning air the exhaust fumes were collecting around the boat and getting sucked into the air intake despite being well away from the exhaust. Got reading up to 10 meters from the exhaust.
I will be getting CO alarms that are a lot more sensitive and can alarm at 10ppm. Waiting until it gets to 30ppm for 90minutes as on some cheaper monitors seems crazy.
The pretty factor is your weak point! That exhaust gets very hot! I wrapped mine with wet glass wrap, makes a huge difference!
We wrapped the first 3-4 feet in exhaust wrap and will monitor for performance to make sure the heat escape does not cause a big performance difference.
on a personal note I would remove the redundant wiring that is not being used
We have tried to remove as much as possible, if you can believe it the wiring is actually GLASSED in!
Happy new year kiddos, Praying that God will bless you kids above and beyond or dreams in this new year... I praise God for all the many ways HE has blessed y'all through this past year, and has kept you safe... So I'm sending y'all much love and many prayers be blessed in Jesus name... BBE..
Put talcum powder on exposed skin when sanding/ grinding fiberglass, it blocks the pores so the fibres don't enter.
next video will not be about leaks, it will be about gas detector installation. :) reflecting heat from the exhaust will be nice but i recommend a heat resistant layer between reflector and hull. i am not an expert but i am paranoid on this kind of things :)
Best wishes for new year :)
To add on from lat time. I have the same heater. You may want to check out the troubleshooting channel for the heater on the Book of Faces. Lots of info and help in there. Hope you stay warm and dry. Fair Winds.
Ps miss the canning videos 😇
I see a lot of people have already commented on some issues with your installation, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents. There was an problem a few years back at my marina where a woman almost died using the same brand heater you are. I heard the company sent someone out and found issues with the installation that caused the problem. I installed an Espar heater in my boat last year, and spent a good amount of time looking through the documentation and installation requirements, I believe they should be very similar to yours. So anyway, here is the list of things I noticed
1. There is a limit to how long the exhaust should be, i believe for my heater it was something less than 2m, yours looks pretty long
2. The entire exhaust should probably be covered, it gets very hot. Clamping/ support should be outside the insulation, otherwise all your metal hangers will transfer a lot of heat from the exhaust to the wood its mounted to. Also there should be an good air gap between the exhaust and any combustible materials, looks like you have it clamped directly to wood.
3 Since your exhaust is pretty high above the heater and long it will need a condensation trap/ drain at the lowest point. They sell these that can just be added into the line.
4. Fuel line coming out of pump looks like a long run, I believe the pump should be located relatively close to the heater so it provides an accurate volume of fuel with each pump
5. There is a certain angle that the pump should be mounted, I want to say its around 45 degrees, yours looks like its almost vertical
6. The hard plastic tube you are using for fuel is not ABYC compliant, either hard metal lines or marine grade reinforced rubber hoses should be used.
7. Combustion air should come from outside anyway, but especially if you are recirculating cabin air.
8. If you can I would recommend pulling in fresh air rather than recirculating (both for safety and condensation) This does mean you need a temperature sensor (if its not included in your controller) because the incoming air will be pretty cold so the internal temp sensor will not work well.
9. The muffler might not be the best for marine use, as others said its meant to be mounted outside a vehicle. Also it will definitely get hot and should be wrapped.
10. Your outlet will be hot, probably want to put some sort of shield/ cage over it to protect people/ things from getting burned
Would add a fan to the intake fresh air vent to get more Air into the Unit like what they use on a Pc to keep it cool very low Watts also would see if you can check for leaked gas's in to the Boat ? , Nothing like going to sleep and not waking up .Q: where you put the out let for the Exhaust will it be near any fresh air intakes say like near the Engine as it might chock the Engine ?. Good job looking forward to the next Vlog Guys.
If you are enclosing the exhaust you must really consider wrapping the exhaust in an exhaust wrap made specifically for exhaust systems. West Marine sells it by the foot. When using this product you will also need single strand stainless steal wire.
Because of the hazards of fire please do not run the exhaust behind cabinets with out the covering.
Bloody fractions! Metric FTW! xx
Just one heating outlet for such a big boat? Our boat of a similar size has 5 for our hydronic system. Will you be adding more?
MMMMMMMMMMMMMmm being a marine Mechanic for many years have not seen or run into that one would think the heat generated from the glass would compromise the wire coatings casing problems/// Happy New Year to both of you best of luck to 2020 crewsing// sailing
I’m not to knowledgeable about diesel heaters and wonder how much heat that small will create? The safety factor also concerns me! That’s most likely just the old man in me! So many great technologies have been introduced it is hard to keep up. The holding tank is required in many ports so I guess it is a necessary “evil”! Did you finally get the new sails installed? Looking forward to seeing them filled with a brisk breeze and pushing you along! Happy New Year kids.
Love the work you are doing! Would you guys consider painting the aluminum inserts in the cabinets some shade of brown so they are less obvious?
Barney
We actually like the look of the aluminum. I'd be worried about the paint flaking, but we did apply a clear acrylic coat to help protect against scratches.
Instead of making an air intake from the locker into the cabin, there is a better solution that is used in domestic oil burner installations, to maximise burn efficiency and minimise heat loss.
If you have enough of the stainless exhaust hose left, you should consider running another run of the hose to the second redundant through hull beside your exhaust outlet and back to your burner air intake this would act as a fresh air intake, meaning that you wouldn't be taking heated air from inside the cabin to vent out the exhaust during combustion. Regards Dave
If you do this, try to shroud the intake away from outlet to avoid sending exhaust back to the heater.
The fancy industrial solution is coaxial duct with the exhaust on the inside, intake on the outside. Lots of advantages.
@@artsmith103 though not necessary, it wouldn't do any harm to do as you say and a simple stainless bracket between the intake and exhaust would suffice, where I live domestic oil burners use a snorkel system, which has both the air intake and exhaust in a single pipe, with the exhaust projecting out just slightly further than the air intake, the fact that the exhaust is forced out during combustion actually drives it away from the intake, which can clearly be seen in cold weather, as none of the exhaust is drawn back in through the intake section. Regards Dave.
2:10 - Simply put, we don't use the metric system in the US because multiplying and dividing by 10 is way to difficult.
"re-looking" is always a good thing when I comes to putting holes in a boat.🤨
Had noticed in past videos the use used imperial measurements and had just assumed you had gone to the dark side, good to hear you still prefer metric. Ditch that tape measure and get a tape with metric ONLY.....don't even think about one of those metric/imperial tapes... :)
Hard to find in the US! Plus, all our stuff is a mix of US/Imperial sizes... if we could all just get on the same page..
engineering metric is in mm, when you get to 42376mm, it just isnt memorable in the same way imperial is, which is kind binary
139ft and a 1/4 inch
the first job we did for a shed for a barge going to New Guinea, we look at the dwgs, its all metric.
We cleared this huge space in 3 bay with the cranes, then it turned out it was about 8ft x 6 ft
the exhaust will work like an Alaska stove, be careful it should get very hot
Shielding should have a 1/2" air space behind it. What does the instructions say about vent clearances ? Cheers BTW Haven't you seen the Australian guy singing Johnny kangaroo down Boy while warping his piece of sheet metal as his musical instrument ? Ha Ha Ha
A diesel heaters work well. I use them i trucks all the time.
Wish you would have put a link to your diesel heater
I’m going to weld a T-price into the boat exhaust and run it through there
Now that you've had it running for awhile, measure the temperature of the exposed exhaust. Less than 400F is probably safe for fire, but over 150F is dangerous for skin burns.
Consider pipe inside pipe. Exhaust in the center, combustion air on the outside.
Wish we could measure all along but we are still looking for our laser gauge, the current fitting in the hull is pipe inside pipe to insulate the fiberglass.
@@AdventureAdriftSailing Your multi meter might have a T/C probe.
To burn, substance must get to its "ignition temperature." Paper (wood) is around 450F. That's why the pizza cardboard doesn't burn when you accidentally put it in the 400-425F oven :-)
Maybe you can look up the ignition temperature of the hull polymers for your peace of mind.
will you not get fumes coming into the boat as boats are designed to point into the wind when at anchor.
have to side with the auzy Metric lol Happy new year to both of you
I know that we only have aluminum and not alYOUminium and we use standard instead of metric but hey, it’s home.
You need to get exhaust wrap for it and heat shield for fuel line
Get 1/4" fuel line
@@davidrhightower 1/4 inch fuel line is fine ONLY to feed the pump. From pump to heater the line that came with it is the must have line.
@@Nimashet nope. Real fuel line not plastic crap fuel line on boat. Works just fine in my big truck and boat
I agree the fuel line needs protection, but In this application, using exhaust wrap makes more sense in just the highest heat areas where not doing so might result in burning the surrounding material, because the rest of the longer exhaust run inside the cabin results in the exhaust heat also heating the cabin too. Regards Dave.
@@davidrhightower all the heaters I had when OTR had the plastic line. My heater has same line as the last truck had.
Centimeters its proper numbers HAHAHA... you are probably right buddy
Centimeters are for women sewing dresses, and Mexican builders. Men metric is milimetres or metre and decimal
Why not an exhaust chimney through the deck? Fair Winds.
Wow - you sure generated a lot of comments on this one. I cringed when I saw you starting to put the through hull on the side of the hull - and breathed a sigh of relief when you changed the position. Yes - metric is better, I’ve built boats with both systems. I hope you can sort out all the suggestions and end up with a safe and durable heating system. Are you two going to be at the Seattle Boat show this month?
We are thinking about a trip to the show if time lines up..
That type of silencer is not air tight silencer it would normally be stored outside of the vehicle.
Thanks mate, had not thought about that.
I have been a woodworker in my younger days. I wish everything was metric.
Have you sold Varuna yet?
Metric is so much better!
If you do not like our system of inch’s and feet,why not just measure in metric and cut to your metric measure?
Getting a metric tape in the US is the challenge.
@@FromThePrairies even in Canada you can't get a full metric one. I bought some in Europe last time I was there.
Jake na rubbish , there are plenty of metric tapes and tools in the USA. Remember when we changed to metric officially the auto manufacturers and Military went metric like the government told them to. Then the next government stopped all funding for the conversion so it all stopped. Remember in the late 70's early 80's when we had gas being sold in liters? ( I do)
So we are stuck with the confusion we have now! Cheers Warren
@@CheersWarren ok, show me a metric only measure tape.
ba deep ba deep that’s all folks
The imperial system works just fine and we like our pennies!!!
Typical traditionalist, I'll be waiting for a fire while you rub two sticks together :p
Boss gets nervous when I put screw holes in the boat. I think he would straight stroke out if was as confident as Y’all with putting holes in things. 🙀
It is still always very scary!!
Only a real offshore yachtie would cut and remove the shore power wiring LOL.. don't need that.. :D
Could you not install in the engine room, run a small extractor fan at the same time ,
Eng room normally has extractor, don't you usually have exhausts on the transom, less water ingress,
I think your going to have issues with that install, and you definitely need a CO alarm too, those pipes need sealing joint compound on them, and you need to install a drain, apparently there's a drain in the side of the muffler so it needs installing correctly, yours is not, see this video here th-cam.com/video/hj8da4WQaac/w-d-xo.html watch at 9mins 50 sec. you can also put a copper tube condensate drain instead. Seriously though they don't call CO the silent killer for nothing.
That's a big job /// glad I'm not doing it, there would be a lot of swearing going, should be nice and comfy when you get it all done
It is impossible to get rid of imperial measurements, for a start all restoration n repairs of old stuff can only ever b imperial measurements cause that's the scale the old stuff was made with
The pipe clips seen at 11:37 are not worth any more than a cable tie. They're dangerous whether they're used for coolant pipes or gas tight seals. They really shouldn't be supplied with diesel heaters.
It's worth every single penny or dime, and your time, to get quality hose clamps.
Any time I see these stupid things, they're binned and replaced, they won't compress the pipe to seal before they strip.
They don't do what a steel band clip was designed to do. If you haven't considered their strength, I'd advise replacing them ASAP.
CM? Look like 1 hand to me. How many Stone does he weigh?
when Ty played with that bronze piece it reminded me of the rhythm in the song "Tie my Kangaroo Down" th-cam.com/video/_D-LmRNdQiQ/w-d-xo.html
Why Ty says here is so Australian
OMG I hope you guys are alive ! That silencer is not a sealed unit. It mustn't be installed inside the cabin !!
GO METRIC!
Dude that silencer is NOT for indoor use. It's not fully sealed and will leak TOXIC FUMES (at least unhealthy!) into the cabin. The silencers that come with the units are for installation on OUTSIDE of a car. Do yourself a favor and get a marine grade silencer that is fully sealed (30£ ebay). ALso get a carbon monixide alarm - 12£ that may safe your life if unit malfunctions.
Also, by-product is water vapor, so if exhaust goes UP, ensure condensation fluid can get out without flowing back into the heater.
you want real complexity, go to the land of the farthing and ha'penny.....then inches, eights sixteenths and thirty-seconds seem like chillds' play....but point taken...if everything divides by ten, simplicity ensues and all of creation is happy... until you get to liters.....
Creation is happy? Did you just solve the entire planets problems?
At around 10.10 on the video where you start making music with the thin insulation sheet you should insert this music. m.th-cam.com/video/LCayqrFm0pI/w-d-xo.html
I think he might offend people these days.
Yes the metric system is easy.... That's why we don't use it !! One doesn't have to think ! ... Kick British butt twice...saved it twice... using fractions... Just sayin'
:)
To many comments for me to follow. Why isn't there any accurate instructions available 😢😢😢😢
Do you want to buy a diesel engine? We are a Chinese manufacturer specializing in the production of marine products such as diesel engines, propellers and ships
Ads are outta control
The metric system makes no since to us
*Europeans, Canadians and Australians:* "You Silly uneducated Americans, how can you grow up only being taught one language!?!? You're so arrogant to think that the entire world should speak your language such that you don't have to learn another one!"
*Also Europeans, Canadians and Australians:* "You backwards Americans, how can you grow up using multiple measurement systems? Why didn't you switch fully to Metric? It's like you couldn't consolidate to using just one, so you kept a mix of metric and imperial, so backwards!!"
Just sayin, if you're good at arithmetic, using Imperial shouldn't be hard.