I like the silicone baking mat idea for added heat resistance... my ducting runs close to some of my electrical wires bundles...And my Exhaust runs close too!! Exhaust will be heat wrapped with Titanium heat wrap.... On Amazon i found a silicone baking mat... it’s 2mm thick and heat resistant up to 500 degrees..... is this something similar to what you purchased?
Thank you for the video. I have many diesel heaters in rvs trucks etc. I am putting one in my 20 ft crestliner tournament open bow. I was just curious. How noise is the exhaust on the water? Do you notice it or ?
Its not too bad. In this install (in this specific video) its a hard top; so for the most part you don't hear it other than when you are at the dock and right in front of the exhaust port. At the helm, I do not hear it. They do make exhaust muffler/silencers, but you need to be careful with some of these as they have a small drain on many of them and they could potentially leak exhaust through these into the cabin. Personally, the exhaust noise has not been an issue with where I placed the exhaust port outside the hull and pointed away from passengers (on this boat and on another cabin cruiser). I think the fuel pump clicking noise and getting that pump noise muffled is more advantageous as that rhythmic clicking drives me nuts.🙂
@@AFaO Great to hear. I am installing mine today. I was torn about going out the starbord side or taking it out clear to the back of the boat. Thank you for your information!!
@@jhspraker Ideally whatever is a shorter path and ideally if you can make sure the exhaust is going downhill/slight downward slope. That way any condensation can naturally run out. Some folks have had to use a condensation trap if the exhaust pipe is going uphill and is long. Short lengths going uphill (less than 3'), I have not had any issues with as long as you run the heater hot. But long runs going uphill can be troublesome with condensation.
@@salmonkiller2545 Same tank. Just removed the primer bulb recently. The distance from the tank to the pump is only 12". It is just the initial priming to the pump that takes a little more time with no primer bulb. The pump doesn't have to work as hard since it doesn't have to go through the check valves in that primer bulb. I've had multiple installs...some with the primer bulb and some without. Its only needed for the initial fueling of the tank. After that, its not needed and the heater pump value (assuming its in good condition) will prevent fuel reversing when the heater is not being used. How long of a run do you have from your tank to the pump? Its more critical than anything else to keep that pump in the upward/45 degree direction so that it will prime and work properly. Also follow the directions on max distances and use only the hard fuel line post pump.
@@salmonkiller2545 originally yes. But over time the pickup tube on that tank failed. So I had to put an aftermarket pickup tube in which only had a barbed connection. So I use Oetiker clamps to secure it. So now no quick disconnects.
Hey this is jay again. I was trying to find the double wall exhaust pipe that you deacribed. I have called 6 different rv places. Any chance you remember the name of the place you got yours? Thank you.
The exhaust pipe is not double wall (I believe) the double wall that I was referring to is the silicon boot which has a layer of insulation sandwiched between the two silicon layers. The exhaust pipe is the actual webasto pipe that they sold by the foot. Its a thicker gauge compared to the exhaust pipe material shipped with the Chinese heater. The RV/Marine heater distributor was Rixens Enterprises in Sandy Oregon.
I like the silicone baking mat idea for added heat resistance... my ducting runs close to some of my electrical wires bundles...And my Exhaust runs close too!! Exhaust will be heat wrapped with Titanium heat wrap.... On Amazon i found a silicone baking mat... it’s 2mm thick and heat resistant up to 500 degrees..... is this something similar to what you purchased?
The ones I used are about 1mm thick. Here is the link from Amazon. amzn.to/3Y7mB0K
Thank you for the video. I have many diesel heaters in rvs trucks etc. I am putting one in my 20 ft crestliner tournament open bow. I was just curious. How noise is the exhaust on the water? Do you notice it or ?
Its not too bad. In this install (in this specific video) its a hard top; so for the most part you don't hear it other than when you are at the dock and right in front of the exhaust port. At the helm, I do not hear it. They do make exhaust muffler/silencers, but you need to be careful with some of these as they have a small drain on many of them and they could potentially leak exhaust through these into the cabin. Personally, the exhaust noise has not been an issue with where I placed the exhaust port outside the hull and pointed away from passengers (on this boat and on another cabin cruiser). I think the fuel pump clicking noise and getting that pump noise muffled is more advantageous as that rhythmic clicking drives me nuts.🙂
@@AFaO Great to hear. I am installing mine today. I was torn about going out the starbord side or taking it out clear to the back of the boat. Thank you for your information!!
@@jhspraker Ideally whatever is a shorter path and ideally if you can make sure the exhaust is going downhill/slight downward slope. That way any condensation can naturally run out. Some folks have had to use a condensation trap if the exhaust pipe is going uphill and is long. Short lengths going uphill (less than 3'), I have not had any issues with as long as you run the heater hot. But long runs going uphill can be troublesome with condensation.
Is the primer bulb necessary?
@@salmonkiller2545 not really. In fact, the check valve can create problems. In a later revision, I actually removed it
@@AFaO you don’t use that tank anymore ? Or did you get rid of the quick disconnects ?
@@salmonkiller2545 Same tank. Just removed the primer bulb recently. The distance from the tank to the pump is only 12". It is just the initial priming to the pump that takes a little more time with no primer bulb. The pump doesn't have to work as hard since it doesn't have to go through the check valves in that primer bulb. I've had multiple installs...some with the primer bulb and some without. Its only needed for the initial fueling of the tank. After that, its not needed and the heater pump value (assuming its in good condition) will prevent fuel reversing when the heater is not being used. How long of a run do you have from your tank to the pump? Its more critical than anything else to keep that pump in the upward/45 degree direction so that it will prime and work properly. Also follow the directions on max distances and use only the hard fuel line post pump.
@@AFaO it’s all in work…the hose will be 2 feet or less from tank to pump… so you still use the quick disconnects?
@@salmonkiller2545 originally yes. But over time the pickup tube on that tank failed. So I had to put an aftermarket pickup tube in which only had a barbed connection. So I use Oetiker clamps to secure it. So now no quick disconnects.
Hey this is jay again. I was trying to find the double wall exhaust pipe that you deacribed. I have called 6 different rv places. Any chance you remember the name of the place you got yours? Thank you.
The exhaust pipe is not double wall (I believe) the double wall that I was referring to is the silicon boot which has a layer of insulation sandwiched between the two silicon layers. The exhaust pipe is the actual webasto pipe that they sold by the foot. Its a thicker gauge compared to the exhaust pipe material shipped with the Chinese heater. The RV/Marine heater distributor was Rixens Enterprises in Sandy Oregon.
Do you use kerosene or diesel ?
@@salmonkiller2545 mostly kerosene because its cleaner. But if its not available where I am at…I will use diesel.