1904s are my favorite engine combo for cruiser engines. Lots of fun, low maintenance and easy to build. Great video series. The biggest reason for straight cut gears is to take the side load off the cam thrust bearing and free up some of the drag caused by the helical cut gears. The stock magnesium gears are also pretty weak when you start running bigger lifts and dual springs. IF you do use straight cuts, buy quality ones or make sure you measure the run out on the cheaper ones, they can be horrible, tight in one spot loose in others. With a counter weighted crank and good quality rod bolts, I run my deck as tight as .040 and haven't had issues with pistons kissing the heads. .050 is a great height, still get a better squish on the pad for a better more efficient burn, but loose enough no to worry. I've had to use 4 shims in some engines lately, just because I don't have a good machine shop like brothers locally, I haven't had any problems with rear main leaks or any other issues. I really like to run them at .005 end play, especially if the engine will see high rpm. On my race engines, I actually go a tiny bit looser. There is more room for oil between the shims and they seem to run cooler. I have taken apart engines where I set them at .003 like lots of guys recommend and have found blue shims from heat or gawling on the rear main thrust surface. Tighter isn't always better. A lot of the current flywheel/crank offerings have very tight dowel pin fitment. I never touch them as long as I can pull the flywheel down on the crank with the gland nut. If it's obvious that something has been drilled off line or too small then I will get the holes reamed but I have found that after they have been mated and pulled apart a couple of times, the fitment is a lot better. I would rather have them very tight than a little loose. The first time I put them together, I then pull them apart and inspect the base of the dowel pins carefully for material scraped off the pins, and if there is, clean then very well as this can interfere with your end play measurements.
74 is a bit easier. the 76 is good too but may have some issues because it takes I think short rods and a pistons but has super thick shims. or if you go b pistons you end up with compression too low if I remember right. Will need to ask someone like carcraft about what is the right stuff to put in there to make it work.
Such great info Mike, so many wonderful tips throughout this entire build. Thank you for taking the time to film this build many people will benefit from the info.
Excellent ! That's what most do not understand with the labor involved with these engines. The sub-assemblies are fitted - taken apart. Then after they are all setup. Then everything inside is fitted - checked for clearance issues. Then disassembled. Everything is cleaned for the 3rd time. Then final assembly can begin.
It is like you say Mike if I ran into a machine problem , I would have to go up to San Antonio . There they do most anything but I dont know if they do lifter hole sleeves for the other case I have. To send it across the U.S. and back it would be 180 bucks for a couple hundred dollar job. My wife said they are just going to keep it and you can not do nothing about it.Here 2 guys do line boring and 1 of them does fly cutting heads and opening up heads and blocks .......
yea 2 engines It didnt hurt them because we caught them in the shop at idle they were ok but when you revved it up oil pressure would not go up. Checked the pump welded the gear and pressure ran up to 80lbs. or more.
Asking about the carbs as I’ve heard conflicting comments on the new after market products, I have been thinking to purchase perhaps twin duel Webber but in the bug being close to the firewall makes it not easy to make adjustments thanks buddy your advice would be cherished
Been watching your videos for a while mike. I have a complete 1835 engine in knocked down condition.. unfortunately my engine builder's disappeared due to the pandemic. Do you think I could put an engine together watching this video.. will be absolutely my first time ever..
I've always run Melling pumps (since 1995) I do not drive my bus easy. Never had a problem with them. I run the High volume pump and never had bearing issues.
You make some great informative videos and I really appreciate it. My question is, since you’re having the flywheel machined, couldn’t you machine it so that you wouldn’t need any shims? Seems like that would be most ideal unless the shims serve another purpose.
Awesome video Mike. Just a question on the Empi crank and 8 dowel flywheel? Fitment is quite tight do you ream the holes slightly or tap it in with a block of wood and a hammer?
you want it pretty tight if you need to beat on it too much you should take the dowel pins out and sand them with a little 600. not too much you want it tight but sometimes the machining is crappy on this stuff.
Hey Mike, did you have that rotating assembly balanced or running as is? I see many mixed opinions if not revving much over stock. My rods and pistons are balanced but questioning the rest. I won't be over 4500 rpm. For years I never balanced anything, but they were totally stock.
dont think you need to balance the crank they are pretty well machined and balanced from the factory. the Light rods from aa are also pretty well balanced .My motors spin like a top and want to rev up to almost 6k rpm easily
Hey Mike, quick question, I'm trying to find the best turnkey engine for a 62 single cab here in the LA area, it had a 1600 from a 71 bus and it's toast. So in your opinion, who do know in the area, from riverside to LA that is reputable and has fair prices. It would help me out.
aa performance 4340 chromoly. I think most companies that sell 4340 stroker cranks are all the same. they also make a 4140 and I think they are all from the same manufacturer
Im not sure they are usually under 300 Car craft might have good price. But you will need the clearanced chromoly rods from. Car craft has good prices on those too. carcraftstore.com
Paid $600.00 bucks for my 74 mm Ocrasa crank. Costs some bucks if you wanna play ball. Best bet if your ona budget is a 1776 or a 1835 single 2 barrel carb . Good performance, good reliability, easiest on the wallet. ☮️
Is it possible to build a motor that will handle a.c and still have enough power And run cool in warm climate and be reliable. Also whats the best Ac kit for a bug. Been considering building a resto mod bug as a daily driver But everyone I've talked to said they run too hot with ac and dont have much power. I could convert to Mazda rotary but its work I prefer not to do. I've done a couple but dont care to do anothrr
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You definitely can’t slap it together and call it done. Glad you’re showing more and explaining more so others will understand.
Yes this is a great VID!
especially on stroker engines. all vws need extra care now. more cases and heads machined.
1904s are my favorite engine combo for cruiser engines. Lots of fun, low maintenance and easy to build. Great video series.
The biggest reason for straight cut gears is to take the side load off the cam thrust bearing and free up some of the drag caused by the helical cut gears. The stock magnesium gears are also pretty weak when you start running bigger lifts and dual springs. IF you do use straight cuts, buy quality ones or make sure you measure the run out on the cheaper ones, they can be horrible, tight in one spot loose in others.
With a counter weighted crank and good quality rod bolts, I run my deck as tight as .040 and haven't had issues with pistons kissing the heads. .050 is a great height, still get a better squish on the pad for a better more efficient burn, but loose enough no to worry.
I've had to use 4 shims in some engines lately, just because I don't have a good machine shop like brothers locally, I haven't had any problems with rear main leaks or any other issues. I really like to run them at .005 end play, especially if the engine will see high rpm. On my race engines, I actually go a tiny bit looser. There is more room for oil between the shims and they seem to run cooler. I have taken apart engines where I set them at .003 like lots of guys recommend and have found blue shims from heat or gawling on the rear main thrust surface. Tighter isn't always better.
A lot of the current flywheel/crank offerings have very tight dowel pin fitment. I never touch them as long as I can pull the flywheel down on the crank with the gland nut. If it's obvious that something has been drilled off line or too small then I will get the holes reamed but I have found that after they have been mated and pulled apart a couple of times, the fitment is a lot better. I would rather have them very tight than a little loose. The first time I put them together, I then pull them apart and inspect the base of the dowel pins carefully for material scraped off the pins, and if there is, clean then very well as this can interfere with your end play measurements.
Tons of great information in this one guys! Thanks Mike!
I sense a new engine coming for one of your projects. ha ha. big one too.
I’m just about to build a 76x88, your videos are what I am going by .
74 is a bit easier. the 76 is good too but may have some issues because it takes I think short rods and a pistons but has super thick shims. or if you go b pistons you end up with compression too low if I remember right. Will need to ask someone like carcraft about what is the right stuff to put in there to make it work.
This is great! Don't forget however, Marvel Mystery Oil is almost entirely baby oil (mineral oil).
Such great info Mike, so many wonderful tips throughout this entire build. Thank you for taking the time to film this build many people will benefit from the info.
Excellent !
That's what most do not understand with the labor involved with these engines.
The sub-assemblies are fitted - taken apart. Then after they are all setup. Then everything inside is fitted - checked for clearance issues. Then disassembled.
Everything is cleaned for the 3rd time. Then final assembly can begin.
Very true brother, with my 2276 I must have test fitted 10 to 15 times checking clearances multiple times.
I had the exact motor. 74 by 90.5 duel 44idf. Terrific motor. Be awesome with a blower. ☮️
I love it . As a new guy just getting in to the VW world. I thank job well done.. I learned a lot. Will be checking the other video's
Thanks for taking the time to record these type of vids! Very helpful!
Glad you like them!
Looking good. You have alot of goodies in your parts pile
otta run good.
Love seeing all those new shiny parts!!
definitely a saved video. Great help to avoid mistakes when building a new engine.
Thanks 👍
I just finished a 74x 88 with short rods. I didn’t have to clearance anything and no shims went together nicely no problems.
short rods Like those. almost no need for shims. DIdnt you need to clearance the pistons though?
These were vintage mahle forged pistons with short skirts.
Sheesh, I'm learning more than I ever wanted to about VW engines! Lol your videos are very informative. Keep it up
hope it all helps
Yes, this is one of the best I've seen all gathered in one vid!! Awesome Mike!!
Great Video Mike! I always enjoy learning from your videos!
It is like you say Mike if I ran into a machine problem , I would have to go up to San Antonio . There they do most anything but I dont know if they do lifter hole sleeves for the other case I have. To send it across the U.S. and back it would be 180 bucks for a couple hundred dollar job. My wife said they are just going to keep it and you can not do nothing about it.Here 2 guys do line boring and 1 of them does fly cutting heads and opening up heads and blocks .......
Where in San Antonio do they vw machine work?
New subscriber here and really enjoy seeing the rebuild on these classic motors👍
thanks for coming.
Yes been watching Mike for a while and this is by far one of the better build vids I've seen!!
Thanks buddy,I like your tec information
There is a paper gasket from the factory on the perimeter bolts you put pematex on. No one ever puts it on , they don’t know it goes there.
Push the rod sideways and it will stay in place while you drop the case half on.
Great video, lots of info, thanks Mike😀
Great detail guys🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🇦🇺
Excellent video
😀
Yes fantastic video, great info brother!!
Thank you again
😀
Thank you, Thank you!! Love the info!
very helpful video, i am also planning on doing a 74 stroke motor
Best of luck!
Contemplating a light flywheel also , would a chrome Molly be the ticket thanks
If it works it isn't wrong. I was surprised about the oil pump gear shaft though.
yea 2 engines It didnt hurt them because we caught them in the shop at idle they were ok but when you revved it up oil pressure would not go up. Checked the pump welded the gear and pressure ran up to 80lbs. or more.
I know I never heard of that before... one more thing to add to the to-do when building the big motors!! Great info!!
Very good infos
Thanks for sharing this video it helps me, What Carbies could you suggest and size thanks
Asking about the carbs as I’ve heard conflicting comments on the new after market products, I have been thinking to purchase perhaps twin duel Webber but in the bug being close to the firewall makes it not easy to make adjustments thanks buddy your advice would be cherished
Everything is going great until Mike has to start reciting numbers then the Chong voice emerges. 🤘🤪
Been watching your videos for a while mike.
I have a complete 1835 engine in knocked down condition.. unfortunately my engine builder's disappeared due to the pandemic. Do you think I could put an engine together watching this video.. will be absolutely my first time ever..
You show where to clearance the case for the additional stroke, but didn’t say how to clearance it. Are you using a die grinder, a dremel, or what?
Like to hear your opinion on bubble top cases.
Great Video! Do you check the gap measurement between the cam lob and the lifter? is there a min/ max it should be?
Whats favorite engine for a 1961 original thar will fit?
In the machine shop I worked in in the late ‘80’s, we used Curil K-2 sealant for the case halves. Was this motor for the ‘67 Westfalia?
what you think about the Melling steel oil pump ?
not really sure I think they are good but pretty expensive. so we usually run scadek
That's the one I'll be moving to eventually with a steel cover! The only leak or seep I have is from the front oil pump cover... lol
I've always run Melling pumps (since 1995) I do not drive my bus easy. Never had a problem with them. I run the High volume pump and never had bearing issues.
Mike did you balance the engine?
You make some great informative videos and I really appreciate it. My question is, since you’re having the flywheel machined, couldn’t you machine it so that you wouldn’t need any shims? Seems like that would be most ideal unless the shims serve another purpose.
vw requires 3 shims. There is a reason I am not sure why but whenever I second guess them I find out.
15:13 how hard can that TAP be ?? Struggling to get it all the way seated
Do you think a 36 dellortos twin would be suitable for the size engine that you are building thanks
Awesome video Mike. Just a question on the Empi crank and 8 dowel flywheel? Fitment is quite tight do you ream the holes slightly or tap it in with a block of wood and a hammer?
you want it pretty tight if you need to beat on it too much you should take the dowel pins out and sand them with a little 600. not too much you want it tight but sometimes the machining is crappy on this stuff.
Mike what is your opinion regarding automatic valve adjuster
Can you send me a complete parts list to build this combo ?
Hey Mike, did you have that rotating assembly balanced or running as is? I see many mixed opinions if not revving much over stock. My rods and pistons are balanced but questioning the rest. I won't be over 4500 rpm. For years I never balanced anything, but they were totally stock.
dont think you need to balance the crank they are pretty well machined and balanced from the factory. the Light rods from aa are also pretty well balanced .My motors spin like a top and want to rev up to almost 6k rpm easily
Hey Mike, quick question, I'm trying to find the best turnkey engine for a 62 single cab here in the LA area, it had a 1600 from a 71 bus and it's toast. So in your opinion, who do know in the area, from riverside to LA that is reputable and has fair prices. It would help me out.
bug hair in torrance I know the owner from back in the day growing up builds good motors
What would be a good twin duel Carbies to use th
40s would work but you might need smaller venturis' to make it jet right.
@@Mikefngarage thanks buddy
what brand and model number is that crank?
aa performance 4340 chromoly. I think most companies that sell 4340 stroker cranks are all the same. they also make a 4140 and I think they are all from the same manufacturer
Yeah!! Very nice brother!! Need a parts list in the description... 👍😎👍
What’s your opinion about pulse jet adaptors ( ignition system)
not really sure on that I would need to ask chris maybe he knows about that MSD is usually where we go on high energy ignition.
Yeah... What's that... gonna need to look that up. Love learning something new!
I’m also looking into replacing my stock crank to a 74mm crank but I’m on a budget what is your opinion for a reasonable price and good crank ?
Im not sure they are usually under 300 Car craft might have good price. But you will need the clearanced chromoly rods from. Car craft has good prices on those too. carcraftstore.com
@@Mikefngarage yah already got it as well as the 95.5 pistons and sleeves your out in Riverside ca. Mike ?
Paid $600.00 bucks for my 74 mm Ocrasa crank. Costs some bucks if you wanna play ball. Best bet if your ona budget is a 1776 or a 1835 single 2 barrel carb . Good performance, good reliability, easiest on the wallet. ☮️
How does 90.5 x 74 = 1904 compare with 94 x 69 = 1914 ??
You have a good video but you keep saying maybe this is it or not check your references need to be more detail
comment
It doesn't seem to run near as good as it should
Is it possible to build a motor that will handle a.c and still have enough power
And run cool in warm climate and be reliable. Also whats the best
Ac kit for a bug. Been considering building a resto mod bug as a daily driver
But everyone I've talked to said they run too hot with ac and dont have much power. I could convert to Mazda rotary but its work I prefer not to do.
I've done a couple but dont care to do anothrr
Hi Mike do you have an e mail or phone number or the address your your garage , need a lots of parts