Normally when we do an engine build we have all the parts laid out on the bench but because we had to do mock up and cut the case we just went to it with all the parrs a bit scattered. We didnt want to clean up with all those parts laid out like that. Some parts like the dowel pins were not in the bags I brought over also case studs and ETC....So we had to stop and find some from one of the sheds with all his surviving parts from moving a few times over the years. Shop was closed in the late 90s. so it has been over 25 years that he has had a place to put stuff. Still a work in progress. And the shop is still not done yet.
When i was preparing to build up my 1600 sp motor. I watched so many builds I could damn near build a flat 4 in my sleep! Found myself reciting along with this like an old favorite movie, something familiar and comforting about the whole process. Hopefully some new guys get to learn from your instructions as i did. Thanks Mike.
As I watch your video I'm very impressed with your engine building have done a lot of engine building high performance Volkswagens in v8 but I was at aerospace machinist and venom machinist 40 years we years olds counter saying switch your actually called counter bore when are the top brands we use are tulips for all your machine screws and stuff they're fantastic and you get a nice finish thanks for the video
Perfect timing. I am just now starting the same build using my EFI case, 74x88 thicks, 92 panchitos 40x35 and a web 86, 1.25:1 rockers with 8:1 compression. Just want something with a bit more power to move the super convertible, hopefully with a good bit of longevity. Always enjoy and appreciate your show.
I would CC the combustion chambers I think those are 60cc. and consider going to 8.5 with that combo. If it works on the math I would try to go longer rods 5.4 and use head gaskets at near 0 deck. different situation than mine.
The gray coating you wiped off the bearing is most likely a zinc coating that is necessary in the oil of a break in time engine. Think about the micro amount of that gray coating compared to the total volume of oil circulating in the engine…. You quickly realize it would never be an issue to the oil filter.
@@Maurice-c6z We used to get a heavy grey substance on the oil drain plate when we did not do it. Maybe because VW normally does not have a filter?. I am not sure what that grey stuff might do in a passage.....Possibly get restricted. Been doing it this way for years. Never had an issue. over 1000 engines done at the shop. Not saying your wrong. But I think it is a non issue. just the way we did it. Every normally used engine would last over 100k miles too. many came in for a second rebuild at 150 and that was because the case was worn out. Even my auto teacher in HS and my Friend who taught me to build V8s said the same thing. My auto teacher said that is a coating to protect the bearing after production and needs to come off. This was in HS....He used a rag no scotch-brite. But the scotch brite would give some place for the oil to retain on the bearing.....I see no issues. But Again I could be wrong. works fine doing it the way we do.
@@Maurice-c6z the race car bearings Chad orders with a special coating that you dont want to remove and it is not the same as what is on the factory style bearings. I forget the name of it.. So I believe some people get this mixed up with what is on these bearings. It is really preference. IMO. But we removed it only because of what we saw in the bottom of the engine. We think it is not zinc....We believe it is just a coating put on the castings to make it easier to release them or something like that.
at 41:17 in the video there is what looks like a main bearing dowel pin laying on the bench. I hope that was not left out. also I think the plate under the generator stand is upside down. cheers Mike.
Second on the oil deflector plate at the base of the generator stand it was upside down and rotated 180 degrees as compared to how it’s supposed to go but I imagine Mike was just putting the longblock in his car to take it home and finish putting it together. I am pretty sure he knows the correct position.
I really enjoy all your videos. I have learned so much from all your wisdom. I’m encouraged to build my own engines now because of your videos. Thank you! I have a single port that needs a rebuild and I’m thinking about doing an 1800cc with the single port.
Hey Mike ! when you go to fire it up take a old trans oil bottle with the funnel cap and squeeze oil into the oil pressure hole for 2-3 minutes and fill the galley up, this is not just for VWs ,
Any details on the awesome engine build stand? Custom? Made back in the day? Any details on dimensions? Also, that crank holder was cool. Are things like that still available? I have an OG factory VW book of "Local Manufacturer" that was given to all dealers. Lots of measured drawings of tools and how to make them, but I don't remember seeing a build stand. I love how that one is at a comfortable working height and not tied to a bench. You can walk all around it. Fantastic!
No those are old dealer tools. cant find them We hard this one laying around for years. The engine stand he made himself. He got that pedestal from a huge machine room that was throwing it away 50 years ago. then made the top part with steel and put his own stand he made himself on it. super sturdy. Built over 1000 engines on that engine stand over 20 plus years in business. 25 years ago.
When you're setting the oil pump to block, I usually use a spray grease on both halves Because it's not just for a lubricant, but to cause suction. And on the bearings Because the grease has a stronger film-strength until the oil pressure comes up to ride on that oil cushion.
Question for Mike do you ever use a dial indicator on the cam gear to crankshaft gear backlash as I usually do especially building a rear end if so what is your recommended backlash with a dial indicator just guessing from my knowledge of gears in different materials on a cam I would think it should be within .003 to 005 if you have an answer that would be fantastic
Hey Mike ! On my new Autolinea case the oil grooves had to be matched . I saw that if they weren't that it would be showing a false high oil pressure ?
@@jimmywilkinson9190Absolutely; all parts then fit perfectly; even aftermarket. Now with all the aftermarket stuff you have to make sure everything works together down to oil holes on bearings and even that dual thrust cam bearing. Back then everything would just slap together perfectly.
not currently I dont have the time But if you need an engine job or mechanical work there is always Performance workshop in Riverside. they are really good and inexpensive.
@@RudyTorres-ki9bx Yea i know the owner Greg TImms. he does great work on engines. also Ed does the repairs. I have know them since I was a teenager. good people do great work.
Mike I need some advice n help. I’m getting conflicting info online. I ordered a78mm crank n want to use my 88mm thick walls. What you think ? Will it work? I know you said you can cut the skirts down but what about the rods?
Engle 100 grind and Single port heads (need single port for the bucket truck to look original. Ported with stock valves. step cut for lower compression.
honestly .075 is not going to change anything on rod angle. I really dont understand the theory. 2.5mm on each end is not going to do much either. even if you went to 5.5 you would gain just over an 1/8 of an inch in rod length. which would change the rod angle an almost unmeasurable amount on a 74.
doing more research on this.....Video coming soon. Porsche 912 74 stroke 5.352 rod length. So this is almost the same as Porsche.....So IDK tell them they did it wrong. No offence. longer rods are better.... BUT.....This is absolutely fine. Rod Ratio still at like 1.89 if I recall correctly Which is still above the average target of 1.75. getting down the track best to be over 2.0 ratio but for a everyday car there should be no issues with skirt wear or any of that. Just a slight difference in power probably unnoticeable between 1.75 and 1.99 which is stock. F1 cars are like 2.10....We are not going there.
@@Mikefngarage Mike, don't want to start chaos and will delete this thread in the next few days. Conrod length is a hot topic amongst academics. Formula one engines have the longest conrod/stroke ratio. Followed by large diesel engines. When MBenz asked Cosworth to modify their 190e m102 2-lit 4 cylinder engine in the 80's to 2.5 lit they first shortened the stroke to increase the conrod length (and improve the geometry) then had to go massive oversize on the bore. To this day that engine is considered the most bullet proof engine ever. There is a point where the conrod becomes to short. That number is subjective. Homebuilt airplane guy in my area took a 1600, downsized the stroke one size, and maxed the bore. I've just seen to many failures with stroked engines. Will remove this thread in a day. But thanks for sharing.
@@ebutuoyebutouy I wouldnt remove it. again no offense...it is good information for others to see. that might have the same question in mind. You are right with longer rods being better and someone might use that information for their benefit. These are things I thought about when doing this. Longer rods make more torque too,
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Normally when we do an engine build we have all the parts laid out on the bench but because we had to do mock up and cut the case we just went to it with all the parrs a bit scattered. We didnt want to clean up with all those parts laid out like that. Some parts like the dowel pins were not in the bags I brought over also case studs and ETC....So we had to stop and find some from one of the sheds with all his surviving parts from moving a few times over the years. Shop was closed in the late 90s. so it has been over 25 years that he has had a place to put stuff. Still a work in progress. And the shop is still not done yet.
When i was preparing to build up my 1600 sp motor. I watched so many builds I could damn near build a flat 4 in my sleep! Found myself reciting along with this like an old favorite movie, something familiar and comforting about the whole process.
Hopefully some new guys get to learn from your instructions as i did. Thanks Mike.
As I watch your video I'm very impressed with your engine building have done a lot of engine building high performance Volkswagens in v8 but I was at aerospace machinist and venom machinist 40 years we years olds counter saying switch your actually called counter bore when are the top brands we use are tulips for all your machine screws and stuff they're fantastic and you get a nice finish thanks for the video
Perfect timing. I am just now starting the same build using my EFI case, 74x88 thicks, 92 panchitos 40x35 and a web 86, 1.25:1 rockers with 8:1 compression. Just want something with a bit more power to move the super convertible, hopefully with a good bit of longevity. Always enjoy and appreciate your show.
I would CC the combustion chambers I think those are 60cc. and consider going to 8.5 with that combo. If it works on the math I would try to go longer rods 5.4 and use head gaskets at near 0 deck. different situation than mine.
Man that's so great to see an engine build. Looks like a beautiful machine!
The gray coating you wiped off the bearing is most likely a zinc coating that is necessary in the oil of a break in time engine.
Think about the micro amount of that gray coating compared to the total volume of oil circulating in the engine…. You quickly realize it would never be an issue to the oil filter.
interesting. Every engine builder I have known in 40 years has always said to remove that coating on the bearing surface. But I could be wrong.
In my case we didn’t take the coating off the bearings; obviously we made sure the bearings were clean and lubed but that’s it.
@@Maurice-c6z We used to get a heavy grey substance on the oil drain plate when we did not do it. Maybe because VW normally does not have a filter?. I am not sure what that grey stuff might do in a passage.....Possibly get restricted. Been doing it this way for years. Never had an issue. over 1000 engines done at the shop. Not saying your wrong. But I think it is a non issue. just the way we did it. Every normally used engine would last over 100k miles too. many came in for a second rebuild at 150 and that was because the case was worn out. Even my auto teacher in HS and my Friend who taught me to build V8s said the same thing. My auto teacher said that is a coating to protect the bearing after production and needs to come off. This was in HS....He used a rag no scotch-brite. But the scotch brite would give some place for the oil to retain on the bearing.....I see no issues. But Again I could be wrong. works fine doing it the way we do.
@@Maurice-c6z the race car bearings Chad orders with a special coating that you dont want to remove and it is not the same as what is on the factory style bearings. I forget the name of it.. So I believe some people get this mixed up with what is on these bearings. It is really preference. IMO. But we removed it only because of what we saw in the bottom of the engine. We think it is not zinc....We believe it is just a coating put on the castings to make it easier to release them or something like that.
at 41:17 in the video there is what looks like a main bearing dowel pin laying on the bench. I hope that was not left out. also I think the plate under the generator stand is upside down. cheers Mike.
yea I was missing one and that was an extra. We had to go through the pile. all of them are in there.
Second on the oil deflector plate at the base of the generator stand it was upside down and rotated 180 degrees as compared to how it’s supposed to go but I imagine Mike was just putting the longblock in his car to take it home and finish putting it together. I am pretty sure he knows the correct position.
Beautiful shop too!
I really enjoy all your videos. I have learned so much from all your wisdom. I’m encouraged to build my own engines now because of your videos. Thank you! I have a single port that needs a rebuild and I’m thinking about doing an 1800cc with the single port.
Hey Mike ! when you go to fire it up take a old trans oil bottle with the funnel cap and squeeze oil into the oil pressure hole for 2-3 minutes and fill the galley up, this is not just for VWs ,
Any details on the awesome engine build stand? Custom? Made back in the day? Any details on dimensions? Also, that crank holder was cool. Are things like that still available? I have an OG factory VW book of "Local Manufacturer" that was given to all dealers. Lots of measured drawings of tools and how to make them, but I don't remember seeing a build stand. I love how that one is at a comfortable working height and not tied to a bench. You can walk all around it. Fantastic!
No those are old dealer tools. cant find them We hard this one laying around for years. The engine stand he made himself. He got that pedestal from a huge machine room that was throwing it away 50 years ago. then made the top part with steel and put his own stand he made himself on it. super sturdy. Built over 1000 engines on that engine stand over 20 plus years in business. 25 years ago.
When you're setting the oil pump to block, I usually use a spray grease on both halves Because it's not just for a lubricant, but to cause suction.
And on the bearings Because the grease has a stronger film-strength until the oil pressure comes up to ride on that oil cushion.
Great video, how was the rock arm geometry with the 74mm crank ?
stock.....with those rods. that is one of the reasons I go with them. stock pushrods not cut to fit. using stock length chromoly.
Question for Mike do you ever use a dial indicator on the cam gear to crankshaft gear backlash as I usually do especially building a rear end if so what is your recommended backlash with a dial indicator just guessing from my knowledge of gears in different materials on a cam I would think it should be within .003 to 005 if you have an answer that would be fantastic
😮 the 88's with its thin cylinder to case will & does pound the case.
There is always a price for power. I like running no shims so there is more meat down there. I think we are fine though.
Hey Mike ! On my new Autolinea case the oil grooves had to be matched . I saw that if they weren't that it would be showing a false high oil pressure ?
depends on how far off they are. on these stock ones it is close enough.
@@Mikefngarage back in the late 60s and early 70s you could slap one together without worrying at all .
@@jimmywilkinson9190Absolutely; all parts then fit perfectly; even aftermarket. Now with all the aftermarket stuff you have to make sure everything works together down to oil holes on bearings and even that dual thrust cam bearing. Back then everything would just slap together perfectly.
@@vayabroder729 10-4 on the cam thrust bearing
If the 74 and 76 were ment to be drop in, why would the stock rods be an issue?
Hi Mike, I’m a new subscriber you have great videos very informative do you only work on your personal projects or are you open to the public?
not currently I dont have the time But if you need an engine job or mechanical work there is always Performance workshop in Riverside. they are really good and inexpensive.
Thank you do you know any ones in particular?
@@RudyTorres-ki9bx Yea i know the owner Greg TImms. he does great work on engines. also Ed does the repairs. I have know them since I was a teenager. good people do great work.
@@RudyTorres-ki9bx I put a link in the description to Performance workshops webpage
Why use a cw crank if your not turning up the rpm's?
Mike I need some advice n help. I’m getting conflicting info online. I ordered a78mm crank n want to use my 88mm thick walls. What you think ? Will it work? I know you said you can cut the skirts down but what about the rods?
Can I run stock VW heads bored to 92mm?
yea if your running 88 thick wall cylinders.
what cam did you use?,, what heads?
Engle 100 grind and Single port heads (need single port for the bucket truck to look original. Ported with stock valves. step cut for lower compression.
Want a bullet proof VW engine then look no further than the Type-4 engine.
Love your channel. But: longer stroke = shorter rods = Nfg. Period. Keep the rods as long as possible.
you can go 5.4 on 88 or if your going 90.5 or bigger you can go b piston 5.5
honestly .075 is not going to change anything on rod angle. I really dont understand the theory. 2.5mm on each end is not going to do much either. even if you went to 5.5 you would gain just over an 1/8 of an inch in rod length. which would change the rod angle an almost unmeasurable amount on a 74.
doing more research on this.....Video coming soon. Porsche 912 74 stroke 5.352 rod length. So this is almost the same as Porsche.....So IDK tell them they did it wrong. No offence. longer rods are better.... BUT.....This is absolutely fine. Rod Ratio still at like 1.89 if I recall correctly Which is still above the average target of 1.75. getting down the track best to be over 2.0 ratio but for a everyday car there should be no issues with skirt wear or any of that. Just a slight difference in power probably unnoticeable between 1.75 and 1.99 which is stock. F1 cars are like 2.10....We are not going there.
@@Mikefngarage Mike, don't want to start chaos and will delete this thread in the next few days. Conrod length is a hot topic amongst academics. Formula one engines have the longest conrod/stroke ratio. Followed by large diesel engines. When MBenz asked Cosworth to modify their 190e m102 2-lit 4 cylinder engine in the 80's to 2.5 lit they first shortened the stroke to increase the conrod length (and improve the geometry) then had to go massive oversize on the bore. To this day that engine is considered the most bullet proof engine ever. There is a point where the conrod becomes to short. That number is subjective. Homebuilt airplane guy in my area took a 1600, downsized the stroke one size, and maxed the bore. I've just seen to many failures with stroked engines. Will remove this thread in a day. But thanks for sharing.
@@ebutuoyebutouy I wouldnt remove it. again no offense...it is good information for others to see. that might have the same question in mind. You are right with longer rods being better and someone might use that information for their benefit. These are things I thought about when doing this. Longer rods make more torque too,
How can all these super hyped procedures be relevant There's no need its not Micro Surgery..