You are like learning from a knowledgeable neighbor. That's exactly what I need. I don't like watching these polished clean lifts, time-lapsed, videos. Thank you.
Any engine can be bulletproof, just takes quality parts and blueprinting, I daily drive a bug with a 2109cc I built in 2010, its currently my only car so it has to run. I wont give up the combo but it has dual 44 Webers so it hauls!
A 2,180 thick wall has same case machining just 94mm heads. Can run less cam and create same power. Even a 1,907 puts out plenty of power/fun , those 2,332 and 2,387 just have too much material taken from the cases.
I've built Vw engines for 20 years, your setup is one of the most reliable nonstock setups, and I've loved them. I normally go with a 74mm crank, and 90.5 p&c's, but smaller than an 82 crank and they tend to be reliable.
@@Mikefngarage Hi, Greetings from Germany. I am riding a '77 bay window with a Stock 1600 engine, but plan to upgrade. I wonder how to s elect the piston kit for larger cranks. If you have a 74mm crank with pistons for 69mm, you miss 5mm and need lots of rings under your cylinder? If you use 82mm pistons from AA, it will be 8mm to high with the 74mm crank, or not? Thanks!
Great info for me to better understand my new project build. I just got a 69 Ghia with a new motor with the numbers 74 / 88 written on the shroud Thank you taking the time and effort for all of us out here trying to learn these builds! I do appreciate your patience and knowledge on VW's 808Hi 🤙
Hey My guess it is a 74 stroke with 88 thick wall cylinders. Lets hope they are the thick walls. they had a super thin wall cylinder for 88 too. The 88 thick wall had the same bore as the 90.5 cylinder on the head side. but a stock block bore. Really good street engine called an 1800. Keeps the block strong and gives you a lot more power than stock. also has the counterweighted crankshaft. I would recommend a Breather box for that though make sure it has one. Those counterweights are like a fan inside the crankcase and will create pressure. Valve covers should have hoses to a box behind the fan shroud. and one to the vent at the filler neck.
Mike thank you for all of your videos. They are so valuable for those of us that have the desire but not lifetime of knowledge and skill that you share. My bus won't be perfect but the project with my daughter will be priceles and hopefully a nice bus at some future point to pass down to her.
People forget that the manufacturer produces the quality the customer requests. If they request quality, and are prepared to pay for it and monitor the quality, that's what you get. It don't matter if it's made in China. If you request cheap to sell to your customers, that's what you get.
Good to see a well set out vid like this. We build about 8 ~9 mild to mid performance T1 mtrs every year (plus more hopped up Type4 & Type1 mtrs). We found that style of Empi cooler really effective for the money. However, don't you think a 72 plate external cooler , plus fan, plus Type4 cooler, plus deep sump is a fair bit overkill if that engine is well built, tuned and running a suitable carburetor? We're located in one of the hottest parts of the planet and we wouldn't use all that cooling even if that motor was going in a bus. Also, we found that a external oil cooler is more effective than any deep sump so all we'd run is a 48 plate external oil cooler with a inline thermostat and the factory doghouse cooler only on that size mtr. The inline Thermostat still allows about 30% oil flow through the external cooler even when the motor is cold so we don't like to run a too bigger oil cooler. Also, often there's casting sand inside those deep sumps and pick up tubes that suck air too so there's work there. Please keep the great vids coming :)
Looking forward to additional videos. Very good info for both new and seasoned builders. Thanks for the time you took to explain things. Thank you, thank you, thank you..
Fantastic hints and suggestions!. It's interesting because I did befor watching your videos believe stock is king. But understanding the obvious that is the world is moving on these days. So much needs to be updated. But its not for the engineering genius... regular Joe's can understand the stuff you explain. Fantastic 🤘😄
yea best to keep up with traffic. update the gears and engine. Otherwise you can get rear ended.. people are not ready to see a slow moving car up a hill (like the old days)
Quite right. Here in the UK I just stick behind the trucks haha. People over-take us easily. I'd rather be slow than keeping pace with faster moving cars. Although people do tend to slow down and wave. Awsome content BTW you must have alot of vws. Keep the music rolling, tyres strolling happy faces passing places that grabs the mind and grabs the soul. 🤙
Wow, all nice parts. Are you using 10mm studs? With the larger oil pump you'll want to watch your oil pressure. The relief valve directs the oil to the cooler when the oil viscosity/ pressure drops. With a higher output pump the oil has to heat up to a higher temperature before it's directed to the cooler.
Oh yea for sure you bet The build video will go through some of that stuff as well. 10mm studs and the only ones I use. I dont build 94 bores. but If I were I would machine the cylinders to fit them.
Mike I agree with u mate if u going rebuild the engine new parts only and yes I would use some original stuff if not too far gone has u say where live old parts are also availble the point should always be reliability when building a vechal for traveling. by the way mike lockdow is starting to ease now every body can start back to work today but schools may be June 1st or september Phil in the uk
I would say the main issue with US owners owning and driving them back in the day especially the lower HP versions is driving flat out or say 70-80 mph like an American car [Oldsmobile. etc.] and also NOT changing the oil every 2000 miles and cleaning the screen as well as keeping the valves adjusted. Having said that the fact its air cooled means lots of heat so it seemed they needed a valve job at maybe 70,000 miles. If the motor is fresh and maintained well driving at say 55-60 it should easily get 60K. I bought a 68 in the late 70's with 85,000 original and motor was NEVER touched, older owner who drove it locally to work for 12 years with excellent maintenance
When you mentioned a supplier for the replacement tins, I could n't make out who you said (the video seemed to jump, even backed up to try again and still jumped). If you could tell who makes the best replacement tins that would be great. Thanks...
Hey Mike. Great video. I’ve built engines before but learned a lot from this series! Looking forward to more. One question, who makes that gasket set you showed? E something...
Mike, enjoy all of your be knowledge and tips. You are pretty good at body work and painting too. The drag racing bugs were pretty cool! How much did you spend on the bulletproof vw engine? I watched a video of a guy with a VW van who put a used Subaru 300 hp turbo engine in it. He fabricated the engine mounts, bought a Acura radiator and electric fan mounted under the engine and made some metal tubing radiator hoses.
im just in the process of building my first aircooled engine for my bus. i have a great case and its never been touched. i was going to do the standard ssp counterweight crank, ssp flywheel, engle 110 cam and make it a 1776. would you recommend anything else? I'm building it for keeping up with traffic, not speed really. i have a stock 1600 that i built up from a longblock recon but bought a second hand engine i have finally decided to rebuild...better!
as long as it is not a cast crank.....Those are crap. 4140 or 4340 chromoly are pretty good. But IMO if your going counterweighted. I would go 74 stroker. and put the chromoly short rods in there. it is a lighter setup and will like the freeway....110 cam works well with that too. Crank is about 250 or so rods are about 130 or so. works great with 90.5. Little better power and torque. and a lighter top end. better spinning.
Outstanding Video Mike! Okay here we go! Mine is a 74/1600DP Type 1 At 13:26 where did you get those tins at? I never saw those before. Are they okay for Type 1 And your right! They would function much better than the stock tiny ones that don’t cool the whole piston. Also do you like car craft? I see EZGZ brought them up. I am only doing a stock or maybe 87mm, although I read the 87s run hot. They have them for 149.00 a piece with stainless guides. Sorry lots of questions my friend. Just for reference I’m building for dependability and long term reliability.
I dont use 87s They do run hot not worth the extra poop. Best to send your case and heads out and have it opened up and inspected just in case the line bore needs to be done. Then put in 90.5 you will feel that with a 74 for sure. Now if you want bolt on performance get some of those heads. It will come alive. even with the 85.5 cyls.
Mike Fn Garage I will have to go back and listen to your video again, and see exactly where you bought those heads. When you say they will be different make it come alive, are there larger valves or something? That would make them do that? Take your time answering there’s no rush I know you got better things to do. Yeah I’m going to run the stock Pistons then, I thought the 87s run hotter. I’m just trying to get on the road this coming spring. But build another engine later a 1776 not to race or beat on it just has a nice daily driver because I’m in Pennsylvania and we have a lot of hills.
I wished the new engine cases mag/aluminum would have the Bob Hoover modification done to them. Also the type 3 tins doesn't fit right, if you are going to use all the type 1 tins below the cylinder covers.
@@Mikefngarage I tried that,it didn't work with the tins I had. The tins I'm writing about is the 2 small ones that go on each side of the crankshaft pulley, behind the pulley tin.
lots of Bob Hoover mods are stuff they guys around here have done for years. I have a lot of respect for him but one that he speaks against is the type 3 tin under the cylinders. But in the same breath he says they do work if you do it right. So I think there is only one way to do it and that is the right way. They need to be wired up tight to the bottom of the cylinders We will be showing that. Plus many other things he uses and we have done for years That work well for a long lasting build.
Why don’t you give all that old metalwork a clean up and a good spray of black paint.....you might as well as you have it all in bits and it will look brand new when you build your engine!
Hi Mike. Lars from Sweden again :) I have ideas for building/rebuilding/upgrading a 1600 type 1 engine some day. I'm not made of money, so cost is certainly a an issue. What I would be aiming for would be an engine with roughly the same torque/horsepower ratio as original, but a bit more. Say revving up to 4500 rpm. I want it to have decent bulletproofness, meaning street and the occasional trip with highway driving at top speed or nearly. I want single carburator and functional heat. I would prefer original stroke, but with a counterweighted crank to reduce the stress on the block at higher rpms. Those cylinder heads sound awesome. Could you make recommendations on what I should go for? Sincerely Lars Karlsson
I would suggest going to 74 so you can get the 4340 chromoly I am not sure if the stock 69 size would be in that grade. Stock cranks with welded counterweights are good too but probably more expensive.. Only small clearancing for that can be done by hand I may build out one of my old engines to those specs just to see.
Mike, I have watched this build series several times and I have watched a couple of other builders as well and nobody mentions anything regarding engine balancing. A couple of questions 1. Are the parts you used from AA pre-balanced? 2. What ratio rocker arms did you use? 3. What size carburetor do you recommend? 4. What horsepower & torque number did you produce? An estimate if you don't know actual. Thanks for you help. Rick
to an extent and better balanced than original. the cranks are pretty well balanced. rods are somewhat blueprinted. You can DIY with a gram scale from harbor freight to even tighter specs. I would run E gas 38/38 we changed it to that one easier to jet and bigger for that engine works better. Aa performance 1.25 rockers I like but on that one the cam was already to large for ratios. Running stock with porsche style adjusters. . (fairly cheap. also lash caps or Porsche style adjusters. I dont remember what ones on that engine both work fine. probably 105 HP maybe 110. dont know torque. but I am sure the HP to torque ratio favors the torque IF I put dual carbs 40s full size vents it would run lots of HP probably 140-150and break the tranny for sure.
why not go with a 30mm pump? with dual relief its OK man. + you are going to move the oil a long ways. They only have too muck oil pressure for the first 20,000 miles then it will calm down! Are you going with a quite muffler. Now Mike on a new aftermarket case check the oil pump fit.
yea chris called out the 26mm pump. Not sure why but there is a reason he didnt go 30. Not going to rev high for sure with the small carb. Dont want to build the trans and really no need to go that fast in a bus. The new aluminum cases are set up for the 8mm Oil pump studs. Should be fine there. He is working on modifying the shroud for the type 4 cooler. Instead of oil we should just call it coolant. ha ha. Look at that external cooler. Plus the cool tin. He is setting it up like his race motor that runs cool all the time too at 10 to 1 Because he used a O2 setup to check mixture at all rmp driving ranges. and jetted it perfect. Several more motor videos coming. as per your request. plus I just needed to build one. Stay tuned.
@@Mikefngarage I dont think you understand about the oil pump fit? Mike the hole that it fits into and the size O.D. of even a Shadek pump does not come close too how a VW pump and a stock case size . I have had problems with this before. On a case that was made in 1999 it was so bad it caused it to suck air between the pump and case and spill oil on the exit side . As soon as it warmed up here came the oil light.I took the engine apart 3 times looking for a bleed out before I got a mellings cast iron pump and had to change studs and just for the hell of it put the pump in with no studs and it fell into the hole and would rattle around = BINGO . My boss said to put solder around the holes on the pump and I sanded them like a shoe shine and it went from 4 lbs hot to 55 hot!!!!!! I have the correct measurements of a VW. oil pump and the case hole.I got a new case 2 years ago and it has the same problem but not as bad .It is called oil cavitation or something????
Ok will do should be making the total build video I am sure chris is aware but I will tell him about what you said.. probably using quiet pack yes only because I dont think the merged exhaust will fit on the bus. hits the rear valance.
Mike, do you know which AA head that was that you described in the video? You’re actually linking car craft heads but you talked about AA? Reason I ask is I just assembled my short block with 69 mm stock crank and installed the CB performance cheater cam. Any recommendations on going forward? I have the stark cylinders And pistons but wanted some feedback on which heads to buy. As well as rockers.
I like to go with the 88 thick wall cylinders makes a 1679. Then use the 4035 valve heads with single high Rev springs and you get the heads that are open to 90 1/2 cylinders otherwise you might lose some bottom end with those big valves. Stock ratio rockers. But going down the highway those heads have a very good flow. If you can up the compression a little bit to like 8.5 to 1. You will need to cc the combustion Chambers and use the chart on CB performance website
@@Mikefngarage so since I bought the 85.5mm cyl and pistons I’ll likely stick with them. But I may change my mind. Okay, stock rockers, what about the push rods? Do I have to cut to length?
Do NOT used those spring loaded pushrod tubes, lost an engine due to them, they got hot, lost strength, oil leaked out, and connecting rod 2 went through the case 12 miles from Buffalo....never going back to that vw shop who put them in.
yea for sure the stock ones are better sometimes on some engines there is no choice but to use them because on some strokers the engine is extra wide from shims.
I have a 72 bus. I’m looking to build (or have built) a good reliable engine. What size do you think is best? About cooling, what do you think of the Porsche style fan shroud?
well on that one you have a type 4 engine. They are expensive to build. We were thinking one like this one would be cool if you put type 3 engine tin on it and modified the cooling to work in the late model busses. would take some work but would be a reliable alternative to the original engine which has problems with the valve seats dropping out and causing engine damage.
Actually, I don’t have an engine. I saw the video about the new aluminum case, and have been thinking of going that way. How big should I go in that route? Bore & stroke, please.
Thanks for taking time to answer my questions. What about the Porsche style cooling fan? Are they worth the money for a daily driver, or just for show?
My friend had a 2007 like this with a PICT 34 3 4 and it worked great. Just like running big carbs at 1/4 throttle which was plenty. pulled pretty strong, super nice torque Stock trans and no issues.
Matt Jackson no. The pict 1 is just a little too small for a dual port motor. Max you can get out of a 30 PICT 1 would be a 1600 SP. Also, the carb has to have the power circuit (I think that’s the name), early PICT 1s didn’t have it
yea there are videos for all that stuff. but some guys just want to see the parts I am using. Some guys dont even know what each part and why I am using it.
Real Holly webber. Easy to maintain. has choke. But you gotta re jet them to the new motor spec. You do end up with a dead spot in the transition sometimes but great on gas decent power and great on gas. Plus more torque because of longer intake runner. Great for daily driver in a bus.
I have had more problems with Mahle cracking then aa. but not good for high performance. This is not about that If I wanted high performance I would go wiseco.
I'm not saying it can't be done , I'm saying it shouldn't be done . Especially with a solid cam . I've had many a customer insist on their used cam to save a few bucks , and have it result in engine failure . Do what you want to do, you will anyway , but don't act like it is really a acceptable practice, or a standard for a competent engine builder, because it's not. This is low budget shade tree type of stuff , not trying to insult you , but the shoe fits ,no offense.
@@jacksonstorm6395 this cam is much more than 40 bucks More like near 100 or more and it is in perfect shape came out of an engine in the shop many years ago no wear on the lifters and it was just too big for the engine it was in. customer came in for rebuild. I have a few of them around and this one is the right one for that engine so it is time to run it. I used to save them when they were performance grinds and perfect shape. The only cams I have ever had on VWs go flat are empi cams and lifters. It is because of the grind. Tom the owner of scat told me that. He was explaining it to em and I dont remember the specifics. His shop makes all the cam blanks for everyone now.
@@Mikefngarage brand new engle w120 goes for 70-91 bucks brand new. W gear they are 110 bucks. Don't bullshit me bro , I'm not some youtube flunky who's never turned a wrench. So now your logic is spend 3k or about, but use a used cam to save 100 bucks .... still not right bro. If you'd like to name drop ( vw or just car world in general ) I can oblige you , and sadly I've been out of the vw scene for awhile. Who makes a ' bullet proof ' engine video with a used cam ? You're just pissed that I called you on it. I even tried to be somewhat respectful in the begining about it , but it's just plain stupid . You can inspect the lobes and mic it with your harbor freight junk , but you do Not have the equipment to properly check it , because I don't see a machine shop and hundreds of thousands of dollars in the background. Doesn't matter , it's a toothless sister fucker type move. Maybe it works out for you , but hopefully your ignorant viewers who are watching you for advice don't make the same mistake. By the way I run scat rotating assemblies in my RVW (radial vs the world) car . So if you thinkni don't have some names to drop think again.
You are like learning from a knowledgeable neighbor. That's exactly what I need. I don't like watching these polished clean lifts, time-lapsed, videos. Thank you.
Any engine can be bulletproof, just takes quality parts and blueprinting, I daily drive a bug with a 2109cc I built in 2010, its currently my only car so it has to run. I wont give up the combo but it has dual 44 Webers so it hauls!
Why not 'give up the combo'? You're here watching a video that someone else is sharing - if you think you have something good, share it.
A 2,180 thick wall has same case machining just 94mm heads. Can run less cam and create same power. Even a 1,907 puts out plenty of power/fun , those 2,332 and 2,387 just have too much material taken from the cases.
I've built Vw engines for 20 years, your setup is one of the most reliable nonstock setups, and I've loved them. I normally go with a 74mm crank, and 90.5 p&c's, but smaller than an 82 crank and they tend to be reliable.
78 is about as much as I would call in the bulletproof zone. yea 74 is great too.
@@Mikefngarage Hi, Greetings from Germany. I am riding a '77 bay window with a Stock 1600 engine, but plan to upgrade. I wonder how to s elect the piston kit for larger cranks. If you have a 74mm crank with pistons for 69mm, you miss 5mm and need lots of rings under your cylinder? If you use 82mm pistons from AA, it will be 8mm to high with the 74mm crank, or not? Thanks!
Great info for me to better understand my new project build. I just got a 69 Ghia with a new motor with the numbers 74 / 88 written on the shroud Thank you taking the time and effort for all of us out here trying to learn these builds! I do appreciate your patience and knowledge on VW's
808Hi 🤙
Glad it helped
Hey My guess it is a 74 stroke with 88 thick wall cylinders. Lets hope they are the thick walls. they had a super thin wall cylinder for 88 too. The 88 thick wall had the same bore as the 90.5 cylinder on the head side. but a stock block bore. Really good street engine called an 1800. Keeps the block strong and gives you a lot more power than stock. also has the counterweighted crankshaft. I would recommend a Breather box for that though make sure it has one. Those counterweights are like a fan inside the crankcase and will create pressure. Valve covers should have hoses to a box behind the fan shroud. and one to the vent at the filler neck.
Less equals more , I agree , nice set up .Looking forward to seeing the end result. Cheers from B.C.
Mike thank you for all of your videos. They are so valuable for those of us that have the desire but not lifetime of knowledge and skill that you share. My bus won't be perfect but the project with my daughter will be priceles and hopefully a nice bus at some future point to pass down to her.
A venturi ring on any fan shroud is a big help also.
Yea hadnt thought of that yet but I am not sure what chris has up his sleeve.
People forget that the manufacturer produces the quality the customer requests. If they request quality, and are prepared to pay for it and monitor the quality, that's what you get. It don't matter if it's made in China. If you request cheap to sell to your customers, that's what you get.
Great video Mike! I'm building my first engine all stock. This will be good information to use on my next one. Thanks man!
yea it will be cool for you to see what it was like originally. Then for sure you will want to make it work better.
When you get it all done and running then maybe build a second full drive train for it and just replace it all at once
Good to see a well set out vid like this. We build about 8 ~9 mild to mid performance T1 mtrs every year (plus more hopped up Type4 & Type1 mtrs). We found that style of Empi cooler really effective for the money. However, don't you think a 72 plate external cooler , plus fan, plus Type4 cooler, plus deep sump is a fair bit overkill if that engine is well built, tuned and running a suitable carburetor? We're located in one of the hottest parts of the planet and we wouldn't use all that cooling even if that motor was going in a bus. Also, we found that a external oil cooler is more effective than any deep sump so all we'd run is a 48 plate external oil cooler with a inline thermostat and the factory doghouse cooler only on that size mtr. The inline Thermostat still allows about 30% oil flow through the external cooler even when the motor is cold so we don't like to run a too bigger oil cooler. Also, often there's casting sand inside those deep sumps and pick up tubes that suck air too so there's work there. Please keep the great vids coming :)
Looking forward to additional videos. Very good info for both new and seasoned builders. Thanks for the time you took to explain things. Thank you, thank you, thank you..
thanks for that
i spy Vista Paint 👍 Used to be a painting contractor in riverside and used them and Dunns exclusively
learning, looks good....can't wait to see this run...I liked the bus ride with the 1776...
Fantastic hints and suggestions!. It's interesting because I did befor watching your videos believe stock is king. But understanding the obvious that is the world is moving on these days. So much needs to be updated. But its not for the engineering genius... regular Joe's can understand the stuff you explain.
Fantastic 🤘😄
yea best to keep up with traffic. update the gears and engine. Otherwise you can get rear ended.. people are not ready to see a slow moving car up a hill (like the old days)
Quite right. Here in the UK I just stick behind the trucks haha. People over-take us easily. I'd rather be slow than keeping pace with faster moving cars. Although people do tend to slow down and wave.
Awsome content BTW you must have alot of vws.
Keep the music rolling, tyres strolling happy faces passing places that grabs the mind and grabs the soul. 🤙
Wow, all nice parts. Are you using 10mm studs? With the larger oil pump you'll want to watch your oil pressure. The relief valve directs the oil to the cooler when the oil viscosity/ pressure drops. With a higher output pump the oil has to heat up to a higher temperature before it's directed to the cooler.
Oh yea for sure you bet The build video will go through some of that stuff as well. 10mm studs and the only ones I use. I dont build 94 bores. but If I were I would machine the cylinders to fit them.
The casings look like the where cast using aluminum pop cans and poured in a kids sandbox .
Mike I agree with u mate if u going rebuild the engine new parts only and yes I would use some original stuff if not too far gone has u say where live old parts are also availble the point should always be reliability when building a vechal for traveling.
by the way mike lockdow is starting to ease now every body can start back to work today but schools may be June 1st or september
Phil in the uk
I would say the main issue with US owners owning and driving them back in the day especially the lower HP versions is driving flat out or say 70-80 mph like an American car [Oldsmobile. etc.] and also NOT changing the oil every 2000 miles and cleaning the screen as well as keeping the valves adjusted. Having said that the fact its air cooled means lots of heat so it seemed they needed a valve job at maybe 70,000 miles. If the motor is fresh and maintained well driving at say 55-60 it should easily get 60K. I bought a 68 in the late 70's with 85,000 original and motor was NEVER touched, older owner who drove it locally to work for 12 years with excellent maintenance
Thank you for making this video. Great tips! I'll study these videos
thanks for watching Ivor.
Thank you for all the info. Im finishing up a 1800cc build.
that is a nice combo. 74x88 thick wall works well.
@@Mikefngarage Thanks for the confidence!
Man, that looks like a nice engine. Looking forward to seeing it run.
Amazing job Mike, this video will help lots of people. How's that engine doing almost 2 years later? Maybe an update video would be great!
was in that bus at the show runs super strong. My buddy has a similar one got 150k miles out of it.
Good information Mike.
When you mentioned a supplier for the replacement tins, I could n't make out who you said (the video seemed to jump, even backed up to try again and still jumped). If you could tell who makes the best replacement tins that would be great. Thanks...
probably should have continued watching before typing (SCAT got it)
Hey Mike. Great video. I’ve built engines before but learned a lot from this series! Looking forward to more. One question, who makes that gasket set you showed? E something...
the actual build video will help people build and not get leaks. and make it last the best.
Elring
1:16 I'm glad you stated what "bulletprooof" means in real world terms!
Mike, enjoy all of your be knowledge and tips. You are pretty good at body work and painting too. The drag racing bugs were pretty cool! How much did you spend on the bulletproof vw engine? I watched a video of a guy with a VW van who put a used Subaru 300 hp turbo engine in it. He fabricated the engine mounts, bought a Acura radiator and electric fan mounted under the engine and made some metal tubing radiator hoses.
Where do you get those little plates for the heads? I can't find them anywhere.
What rocker tips did you use? Swivel ball? What brand ?
im just in the process of building my first aircooled engine for my bus. i have a great case and its never been touched. i was going to do the standard ssp counterweight crank, ssp flywheel, engle 110 cam and make it a 1776. would you recommend anything else? I'm building it for keeping up with traffic, not speed really. i have a stock 1600 that i built up from a longblock recon but bought a second hand engine i have finally decided to rebuild...better!
as long as it is not a cast crank.....Those are crap. 4140 or 4340 chromoly are pretty good. But IMO if your going counterweighted. I would go 74 stroker. and put the chromoly short rods in there. it is a lighter setup and will like the freeway....110 cam works well with that too. Crank is about 250 or so rods are about 130 or so. works great with 90.5. Little better power and torque. and a lighter top end. better spinning.
and no machine work required....Just a slight bit I put on a video.
Outstanding Video Mike!
Okay here we go! Mine is a 74/1600DP Type 1
At 13:26 where did you get those tins at? I never saw those before. Are they okay for Type 1
And your right! They would function much better than the stock tiny ones that don’t cool the whole piston.
Also do you like car craft? I see EZGZ brought them up. I am only doing a stock or maybe 87mm, although I read the 87s run hot. They have them for 149.00 a piece with stainless guides. Sorry lots of questions my friend. Just for reference I’m building for dependability and long term reliability.
I dont use 87s They do run hot not worth the extra poop. Best to send your case and heads out and have it opened up and inspected just in case the line bore needs to be done. Then put in 90.5 you will feel that with a 74 for sure. Now if you want bolt on performance get some of those heads. It will come alive. even with the 85.5 cyls.
Mike Fn Garage I will have to go back and listen to your video again, and see exactly where you bought those heads. When you say they will be different make it come alive, are there larger valves or something? That would make them do that?
Take your time answering there’s no rush I know you got better things to do. Yeah I’m going to run the stock Pistons then, I thought the 87s run hotter. I’m just trying to get on the road this coming spring. But build another engine later a 1776 not to race or beat on it just has a nice daily driver because I’m in Pennsylvania and we have a lot of hills.
@@SladesVWBeetle it might take a while but may put a link on there with each part and where to buy it.
I wished the new engine cases mag/aluminum would have the Bob Hoover modification done to them. Also the type 3 tins doesn't fit right, if you are going to use all the type 1 tins below the cylinder covers.
They fit but you need to wire them up tight. otherwise they wont work properly We will show this on the engine build.
@@Mikefngarage
I tried that,it didn't work with the tins I had. The tins I'm writing about is the 2 small ones that go on each side of the crankshaft pulley, behind the pulley tin.
lots of Bob Hoover mods are stuff they guys around here have done for years. I have a lot of respect for him but one that he speaks against is the type 3 tin under the cylinders. But in the same breath he says they do work if you do it right. So I think there is only one way to do it and that is the right way. They need to be wired up tight to the bottom of the cylinders We will be showing that. Plus many other things he uses and we have done for years That work well for a long lasting build.
Why don’t you give all that old metalwork a clean up and a good spray of black paint.....you might as well as you have it all in bits and it will look brand new when you build your engine!
yea we are sand blasting it and welding up the cracks right now then painting it black Great Idea. thanks for watching.
Great info Mike.
thank you
Hi Mike.
Lars from Sweden again :) I have ideas for building/rebuilding/upgrading a 1600 type 1 engine some day. I'm not made of money, so cost is certainly a an issue. What I would be aiming for would be an engine with roughly the same torque/horsepower ratio as original, but a bit more. Say revving up to 4500 rpm. I want it to have decent bulletproofness, meaning street and the occasional trip with highway driving at top speed or nearly. I want single carburator and functional heat.
I would prefer original stroke, but with a counterweighted crank to reduce the stress on the block at higher rpms. Those cylinder heads sound awesome. Could you make recommendations on what I should go for?
Sincerely
Lars Karlsson
I would suggest going to 74 so you can get the 4340 chromoly I am not sure if the stock 69 size would be in that grade. Stock cranks with welded counterweights are good too but probably more expensive.. Only small clearancing for that can be done by hand I may build out one of my old engines to those specs just to see.
what about the hoover bit for the oil cooler???
Mike, I have watched this build series several times and I have watched a couple of other builders as well and nobody mentions anything regarding engine balancing. A couple of questions
1. Are the parts you used from AA pre-balanced?
2. What ratio rocker arms did you use?
3. What size carburetor do you recommend?
4. What horsepower & torque number did you produce? An estimate if you don't know actual.
Thanks for you help.
Rick
to an extent and better balanced than original. the cranks are pretty well balanced. rods are somewhat blueprinted. You can DIY with a gram scale from harbor freight to even tighter specs.
I would run E gas 38/38 we changed it to that one easier to jet and bigger for that engine works better.
Aa performance 1.25 rockers I like but on that one the cam was already to large for ratios. Running stock with porsche style adjusters. . (fairly cheap. also lash caps or Porsche style adjusters. I dont remember what ones on that engine both work fine.
probably 105 HP maybe 110. dont know torque. but I am sure the HP to torque ratio favors the torque IF I put dual carbs 40s full size vents it would run lots of HP probably 140-150and break the tranny for sure.
@@Mikefngarage Thanks for the info.
thanks for your help dude, i just built a standard twin port 1600 for my splitty on these guidelines,
Cheers from Australia mate
No problem 👍
Send it to me when you are done!
Finally got my case today mike on may way
😀🚗
Thanks for the parts tutorial
Any time!
Would you recommend these engine specs for use in a 71’ beetle?
these are great engine specs It would really make a beetle fly. Especially with dual carbs.
What do you think about scatt c45 cam with 90.5 by 78 mm & a single 45 webber
sounds pretty nice about right for that. more top end with dual carbs but nice midrange strong power and decent mpg with that setup.
cam specs are almost the same as mine.
Please help me understand why I would want this instead of a Subaru motor
no radiator also bolts right in and doesn't have a timing belt.Air cooled no head gaskets to blow. and will run strong and cool.
Ryan Chase I too struggle. My 78 bus engine, parts alone, I was at 3K and the type four store wanted 10K for an engine kit ! Nope, not me, not today.
why not go with a 30mm pump? with dual relief its OK man. + you are going to move the oil a long ways. They only have too muck oil pressure for the first 20,000 miles then it will calm down! Are you going with a quite muffler. Now Mike on a new aftermarket case check the oil pump fit.
yea chris called out the 26mm pump. Not sure why but there is a reason he didnt go 30. Not going to rev high for sure with the small carb. Dont want to build the trans and really no need to go that fast in a bus. The new aluminum cases are set up for the 8mm Oil pump studs. Should be fine there. He is working on modifying the shroud for the type 4 cooler. Instead of oil we should just call it coolant. ha ha. Look at that external cooler. Plus the cool tin. He is setting it up like his race motor that runs cool all the time too at 10 to 1 Because he used a O2 setup to check mixture at all rmp driving ranges. and jetted it perfect. Several more motor videos coming. as per your request. plus I just needed to build one. Stay tuned.
@@Mikefngarage I dont think you understand about the oil pump fit? Mike the hole that it fits into and the size O.D. of even a Shadek pump does not come close too how a VW pump and a stock case size . I have had problems with this before. On a case that was made in 1999 it was so bad it caused it to suck air between the pump and case and spill oil on the exit side . As soon as it warmed up here came the oil light.I took the engine apart 3 times looking for a bleed out before I got a mellings cast iron pump and had to change studs and just for the hell of it put the pump in with no studs and it fell into the hole and would rattle around = BINGO . My boss said to put solder around the holes on the pump and I sanded them like a shoe shine and it went from 4 lbs hot to 55 hot!!!!!! I have the correct measurements of a VW. oil pump and the case hole.I got a new case 2
years ago and it has the same problem but not as bad .It is called oil cavitation or something????
Ok will do should be making the total build video I am sure chris is aware but I will tell him about what you said.. probably using quiet pack yes only because I dont think the merged exhaust will fit on the bus. hits the rear valance.
30mm sounds better with that case and extra cooler. Also keyed gear to shaft for pump to not spin the gear on shaft
Thank you for the video!
Mike, do you know which AA head that was that you described in the video? You’re actually linking car craft heads but you talked about AA? Reason I ask is I just assembled my short block with 69 mm stock crank and installed the CB performance cheater cam. Any recommendations on going forward? I have the stark cylinders And pistons but wanted some feedback on which heads to buy. As well as rockers.
I like to go with the 88 thick wall cylinders makes a 1679. Then use the 4035 valve heads with single high Rev springs and you get the heads that are open to 90 1/2 cylinders otherwise you might lose some bottom end with those big valves. Stock ratio rockers. But going down the highway those heads have a very good flow. If you can up the compression a little bit to like 8.5 to 1. You will need to cc the combustion Chambers and use the chart on CB performance website
@@Mikefngarage so since I bought the 85.5mm cyl and pistons I’ll likely stick with them. But I may change my mind. Okay, stock rockers, what about the push rods? Do I have to cut to length?
Do NOT used those spring loaded pushrod tubes, lost an engine due to them, they got hot, lost strength, oil leaked out, and connecting rod 2 went through the case 12 miles from Buffalo....never going back to that vw shop who put them in.
yea for sure the stock ones are better sometimes on some engines there is no choice but to use them because on some strokers the engine is extra wide from shims.
where are you located
I have a 72 bus. I’m looking to build (or have built) a good reliable engine. What size do you think is best? About cooling, what do you think of the Porsche style fan shroud?
well on that one you have a type 4 engine. They are expensive to build. We were thinking one like this one would be cool if you put type 3 engine tin on it and modified the cooling to work in the late model busses. would take some work but would be a reliable alternative to the original engine which has problems with the valve seats dropping out and causing engine damage.
Actually, I don’t have an engine. I saw the video about the new aluminum case, and have been thinking of going that way. How big should I go in that route? Bore & stroke, please.
@@terryfleming7084 90.5 x 78 is a strong stroker motor. going to 82 requires cutting the cam. total build uploaded but not released. yet. coming soon
Thanks for taking time to answer my questions. What about the Porsche style cooling fan? Are they worth the money for a daily driver, or just for show?
What is the anticipated HP
Could you make a 30pict1 work with this setup?
My friend had a 2007 like this with a PICT 34 3 4 and it worked great. Just like running big carbs at 1/4 throttle which was plenty. pulled pretty strong, super nice torque Stock trans and no issues.
Matt Jackson no. The pict 1 is just a little too small for a dual port motor. Max you can get out of a 30 PICT 1 would be a 1600 SP. Also, the carb has to have the power circuit (I think that’s the name), early PICT 1s didn’t have it
@@Mikefngarage awesome
How about a bullet proof 40 horse build?
That crank has the oil hole way off center on the thrust bearing
we have not had any problems with that crank.
One shot each for "Bullet Proof"
There is not really any bullet proof in a 70 year old technology but the best available
ALL parts in the video can be purchased at car craft store carcraftstore.com/ They sell AA parts and empi.
Good information, but stop mumbling and get a lav mic for you phone so you can be heard when you move the phone away.
HOW MUCH FOR ALL THOSE PARTS?
Im not exactly sure because I get them at wholesale. But over 4000 for sure.
To much taking less work good information but let's cut the b.s. and let's get to the job
yea there are videos for all that stuff. but some guys just want to see the parts I am using. Some guys dont even know what each part and why I am using it.
What carb will you run?
Real Holly webber. Easy to maintain. has choke. But you gotta re jet them to the new motor spec. You do end up with a dead spot in the transition sometimes but great on gas decent power and great on gas. Plus more torque because of longer intake runner. Great for daily driver in a bus.
@@Mikefngarage Cool, I'll watch for next videos. You running vaccuum advance distributor?
009 with pointless
AA pistons =Junk
I have had more problems with Mahle cracking then aa. but not good for high performance. This is not about that If I wanted high performance I would go wiseco.
Used cam ? Sorry but never run a used camshaft . All those parts and you skimp to save what 40 bucks ? Come on man.
It will be fine. done this before.
and dont run one unless you know how to check to see if it is worn. gotta know your used parts.
I'm not saying it can't be done , I'm saying it shouldn't be done . Especially with a solid cam . I've had many a customer insist on their used cam to save a few bucks , and have it result in engine failure . Do what you want to do, you will anyway , but don't act like it is really a acceptable practice, or a standard for a competent engine builder, because it's not. This is low budget shade tree type of stuff , not trying to insult you , but the shoe fits ,no offense.
@@jacksonstorm6395 this cam is much more than 40 bucks More like near 100 or more and it is in perfect shape came out of an engine in the shop many years ago no wear on the lifters and it was just too big for the engine it was in. customer came in for rebuild. I have a few of them around and this one is the right one for that engine so it is time to run it. I used to save them when they were performance grinds and perfect shape. The only cams I have ever had on VWs go flat are empi cams and lifters. It is because of the grind. Tom the owner of scat told me that. He was explaining it to em and I dont remember the specifics. His shop makes all the cam blanks for everyone now.
@@Mikefngarage brand new engle w120 goes for 70-91 bucks brand new. W gear they are 110 bucks. Don't bullshit me bro , I'm not some youtube flunky who's never turned a wrench. So now your logic is spend 3k or about, but use a used cam to save 100 bucks .... still not right bro. If you'd like to name drop ( vw or just car world in general ) I can oblige you , and sadly I've been out of the vw scene for awhile. Who makes a ' bullet proof ' engine video with a used cam ? You're just pissed that I called you on it. I even tried to be somewhat respectful in the begining about it , but it's just plain stupid . You can inspect the lobes and mic it with your harbor freight junk , but you do Not have the equipment to properly check it , because I don't see a machine shop and hundreds of thousands of dollars in the background. Doesn't matter , it's a toothless sister fucker type move. Maybe it works out for you , but hopefully your ignorant viewers who are watching you for advice don't make the same mistake. By the way I run scat rotating assemblies in my RVW (radial vs the world) car . So if you thinkni don't have some names to drop think again.