I Bought a Broken 3D Printer and FIXED IT!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2024
- The finale for the Broken 3D Printer Series.
PCBWay enhanced this series with their support, go check them out!
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Check out the Knomi 2 and other brilliant upgrades from BIQU and BIGTREETECH! (Affiliate Link)
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Business Contact ►► tommy@tommyhoughton.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I believe that taking a broken 3d printer and fixing it is far better than buying another cheap one. 1. You are recycling components that otherwise would rot and rust somewhere. 2. You are learning and improving your skills and understanding. Great video, can't wait for the speed upgrades.
The part 5 we never knew we needed 💋
Always appreciate your support Miles
Clogs. Check inside of heat break. Make sure it is smooth. Or used like floss and toothpaste to smooth it.
Also retract 3 mm at the end of a print. That makes the filament a little more solid. When it starts a print and pushes the filament out. instead of just trying to melt more. Once I started doing that no more clogs.
Love what you are doing. Amazing to see what you have done with an older 1st gen unit :)
A beautiful conclusion to this wonderful, informative, professional and entertaining series - Thank you Tommy! 😀
Love it!
Some of the best content on TH-cam seems to be coming from Down Under and New Zealand. What's in the water down there?
Thanks!
I’ve been keeping a look out for NZ and Australian TH-camrs, they’re really entertaining.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing more content like this!
Price and time is one thing but I feel like knowing you saved what you could and just didnt but another cheap ender3 clone is reason enough even if the cost could be "the same"
Been waiting for this video
I appreciate that!
if you still use test cubes to calibrate the printer dimensional accuracy always print 2 sizes and compare the error of both if error in size is the ssme don't touch steps per mm and calibrate flow instead because this is what 20 mm cube was ment to be used for , calibrate flow, you can calibrate the motion system by just using reprap calculator online knowing the belt pitch and motor gear tooth count and it would be even closer to what you can do with a single cube
I used the gear and pitch to get the rotational distance values for klipper, not sure how it was incorrect once I originally flashed it, but since I put the “correct” values in, it’s been accurate. I’ve got esteps calibrated for the extruder, but I’m not sure about flow rate, I’ll look into it.
@@TommyHoughton did you count teeth of your puley on the motor or did you assume it is a certain number? when i made my last two printers the math always worked even though i used 32 (50steps), 25, (64 steps) 20 (80 steps) or 16 (100 steps) teeth puleys (i like nice round bumber of steps) even with 3d printed puleys so if you have some off puley like 19 or 21 the number might be much crazier
I assumed it was a certain number, it was awkward to try and count them so I just printed a bunch of cubes with clean numbers for rotational distance. 32 is the final value for X and Y, and I've been getting accurate prints since then. I watched so many videos and articles on rotational distance that I ended up getting too confused and ended up just trial and erroring, which isn't the right approach, but in the end it worked. This won't work for more complex situations of course.
@@TommyHoughton with my first printer i was lazy, i went to pruse/reprap calculator website and just inserted puley teeth out of the air, no counting from 25 to 15 and had 10 values to try out then just measured roughly with a scale how much the carridge moved and if it was close to 100mm i wanted to move that was it if not inserted another number in pronterface terminal and moved again, that being said my motors were 1$ used junk from ebay and they came with pressed on puley from the get go so i just used it after spacing the motor far enough from the mount so the puley was inline with a belt, later i took apart 2 more motors, removed armature and coil assembly and used them as a bearing blocks with idler gears on the other side, looks kind of funny but that wasn't the wierdest thing my first printer had
Keep up the good spirit, I'm abut to convert my anet a8 to klipper and new components, and call it resura8ted
it's funny how, over time, the extra hardware tends to take up more space than the printer does.
Next episode: reprinting the hotend parts in anything but PLA.
PETG or PET at a minimum. PLA works as a "for now" option but in reality all it takes is that one incident and hopefully you have some spares.
Yeah, I really need to get something other then pla
aluminum extrusions shouldn't be that hard to cut
Not sure why they were, perhaps I was using the wrong blade.
@@TommyHoughton you're blade didn't seem to be tensioned enough most fine tooth (and even regular wood cutting blades like on chopsaws and table saws ) blades work very well for aluminum but you're saw might not be able to handle enough tension for aluminum cutting
@@teitgenengineering I’ve got a few other basic saws that I can try, I’ll see if any perform better.
@@TommyHoughton OK most saws can cut aluminum as its very soft
Yo brother....you want the old anet a8 in my closet? It's probably not worth anything
I appreciate the offer! As nice as that would be, the shipping cost wouldn't be worth it for me unfortunately. I'm sure you can find a local buyer though! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton I think I got it in like 2017. Even then it was not good. I've thought about salvaging it for years, but it never seemed worth it. Any recommendations for a new printer?
@@Eli-dt3ge The parts on it wouldn’t really be worth much. I’ve heard positive reviews on the Ender V3 SE as a good budget printer, and some of the Sovol machines too. It depends on your requirements and budget. Cheers
Definitely like!