I Bought Another Broken 3D Printer...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ค. 2023
- This video ended up being way too long...
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I started also with a used printer. your "filament" problems could be described as extrudes fine go to print and jams. I also have this problem. it is definitely 100% heat creep . the filament melts in the tube and swells just enough to jam . the solution I use is when you are done extruding be it a test flow or print have the g code pull the filament back like 50 mm to clear all heat areas that way you avoid the swelling. this drove me nuts on my machine. love the content .
Thanks for your comment! I had never encountered heat creep until I got this machine, it was an issue for many months. It’s mostly resolved now. I’m glad it happened though, it’s been helpful to learn about. Cheers
Specific pattern of the Prusa is called the Bear, which afaik isn't official but is a popular alteration of the frame. Some of the plastic parts are different but the extruder should (and looks) to be the same as the Mk3S and if you wanted you could probably print the R7 version with files off Printables (with a part modified to take a bl-touch instead of a pinda). Light blue parts may interfere with an IR filament sensor (the parts are meant to be black, and in addition to the sensor you'll need magnets for the lever and a little (8mm?) ball bearing). Others have pointed out that the pancake stepper is too weak- there are designs on Printables for little gearboxes to go with a pancake (though you will probably need to check the shaft length and will need to get other hardware), but the proper size of motor is a 42-40 (I think, that's what I used when upgrading my clone prusa into a "real" prusa).
If it's 24v and you need a new hotend Fystec sells a good clone of the Prusa specific e3d v6 that's all-metal for 40 dollars (if you don't want to buy the official one. I bought one recently and it even came fully assembled and heat tightened). The clone hot end that's in there right now is a bowden hotend that is supposed to use a PC4 coupling to hold the tube in place- the previous owner did this because they probably wanted to be cheap without realizing that the Prusa v6 has a collet built into the hotend, then they simply removed the coupling and hoped it would be held in place by extruder geometry alone. The Fystec hotend also comes with a better heater cartridge and thermistor that's in a proper metal cartridge, which may also fix the runaway issues- if it's particularly having issues getting up to temp, it may be a heater cartridge with incorrect voltage or an incorrect thermistor.
You can probably reflash the Robin with newer firmware, if you're willing; you may end up needing to do that in the long run anyway. It isn't too hard, just a bit of time. Does it use TMCs?
In part two I address a bunch of the problems, I try to solve all of them but some things won't arrive in time. I will do some research into finding printable parts for this machine as not having any spares isn't the best. I've swapped the pancake stepper for a full size one, it's currently working great. The whole system is currently 12, but in the future I would really like to convert to 24v as the bed heat up time isn't exactly pleasant. I've replaced the heater cartridge, thermistor, nozzle, hotend and now It's printing semi reliably. Also got a filament heater/dryer on the way so moisture and filament are less issues. Once I get Klipper on the machine I'll do a deeper dive on the firmware. It uses TMC 2208 drivers. Thanks a ton for the information! This will be really helpful.
This looks like it was an ANET A8 that someone upgraded to a metal frame and maybe a newer mainboard. I’ve done exactly the same with my “free” and slightly singed ANET. (It nearly caught fire…)
I’ve been taking a look at the Anet Am8 thingiverse page, and it definitely bears more resemblance with this machine than a prusa. That must’ve a scary encounter with your machine, Klipper has been quite reassuring with this machine and thermal runaway.
No KlipperScreen with this type of display.
that pancake stepper is too weak for that type of extruder. Usually these are used with reduction type extruders like the BMG or Titan. Also you`ll get more clogs in the future as that piece of PTFE tube in the hotend is not fixed in place by anything so molten filament can and will get trapped between it and the nozzle as it will move upwards. Klipper is possible on this board but you`ll lose the touchscreen.
Thanks for the info! I’ve got a spare regular sized stepper motor, so I may swap to that. Do you reckon switching to an all metal heatbreak could improve things or will that not affect it? Good to know klipper is compatible, I do love the touch screen so I’ll have to decide if it’s worth it. Thanks again!
@@TommyHoughton a quality all metal hotend is worth it as that would eliminate PTFE tube related problems and allow you to print at higher temps. Make sure you reduce your retraction length in the slicer to 1mm or so as direct drive doesn`t require much retraction.
Good to know! I’ve been holding off on getting a few all metal heat breaks for my machines, so that gives me some good reasons to upgrade.
@@TommyHoughton get the bimetal ones
The temperature issues could be from the lack of a silicone sock for the heater block.
That could be the case. I ended up “borrowing” one from my ender 3 when I replaced hotends and it’s really helped. I’ve also added a really powerful fan so making sure the hotend stays insulated is very important.
the dust was a paid actor
This is exactly the type of project i love doing. I was given a second hand printer in Dec 2022 and while it worked it had issues Being my first 3d printer i was completely lost and in uncharted territory but after a LOT of online searching and trial and error I managed to work through the problems and get it printing really well It's still far from perfect but for free I'm not going to complain. A great video.
Glad to hear that! My first ever printer never ended up working, luckily it didn’t put me off and I sold it and bought a new machine that started my journey. Thanks for watching and commenting!
How do you not have more subscribers. Your work is amazing and I can see your trying your best! I love your style and how you make topics interesting!! Keep up the good work and never get down ❤
Thanks for the support! I’ll continue to keep up the work and improve.
This content is so underrated ❤
The gap between Heatsink and Heatingblock looks really small. Maybe this causes heat creep = extrusions trouble.
It has been. I’ve replaced the fan with a less broken one and also ordered a bi-metallic heat break which should hopefully help. I’ve been lucky to never encounter heat creep until now, but it’s caused me to take apart the hotend assembly almost 10 times so far. Thanks for your comment!
it has standard mk3s extruder and it's missing filament sensor, filament guide path and part cooling fan support bracket.
Good to know! Thanks
Excluding the MKS Robin board, this printer looks eerily similar to my first printer when I sold it 6 years ago (MK2 clone). 3030 extrusion custom Prusa i3 MK2 clone with a 20x20 build plate.
What I didn’t like about your fixes is that you were looking for faults in the wrong places. Many of the conclusions were incorrect or had a pretty obvious solution. You kept fiddling with the TMC heatsinks when you were experiencing multiple thermal runaways. I’m sure you’ll gain more experience over time. I’m happy to see someone attempt to revive an old printer
Thanks for your comment! Yeah I did make quite a few mistakes in this one, I’m grateful to everyone who’s pointed them out, I did end up going a bit all over the place while working on this machine.
I've got a printer with a robin nano 1.2 with the same touch screen as well (twotrees bluer v2/v3). It looks like you're running the mks firmware v2. But it is quite buggy. especially when using the bltouch. Or a clone. The issue is, that is seems to forget the z-offset settings and doing a g29 in the start code will lock up the screen or put it in a weird "not printing" mode even when it is printing. Either change it to read the heightmap from eeprom and set the z-offset in the settings or just remove the sensor and go back to limit switches. when you change somthing with dimensions and offsets you might cause the printer to not do any probing at all until the values are good. regarding the thermal runaway: check if the power supply can keep up and check if the cables are all good or if they are loose. When the bed heater or nozzle heater as too much resistance then it might be very slow. In that case change the thermal protection settings to wait a bit longer. I noticed, you got the esp module in there, that means you could upload modles via the mks wifi plugin in cura. However when you send a model over to the machine, make sure the heaters are off because the upload takes quite long and the thermistor is ignored at this time. Especially the nozzle will heat up uncontrolled while its uploading, which is a fire hazard. After the sending completes it will trigger a thermal runaway error right before the print starts and wil lock up the firmware until restart. Very annoying. My ptfe tube was heated above 300degree that way. Heating the bed before sending a print is fine, though, when the bed is not that hot at the start.
Using klipper with this board is a great idea and is what i will do on my twotrees bluer v2 (or v3).
If you need more info about the board, just ask. I spent a lot of time learning its flaws and reflashing it a lot of times
Thanks for your for all the info! I’m still figuring this board out and having someone with experience will be really helpful. I’ll do some more research into the firmware once I start adding klipper to this machine. The thermal runaway issue has mainly been solved since I’ve switched heater cartridges and thermistors, I’ll attempt to do another PID tune again soon.
Klipper is an option, but you can also simply build the latest Marlin for the Robin Nano 1.2 and its LCD. That will give you the latest robust firmware without needing an extra Pi for Klipper. I cannot understand why printer-makers always try to put their own old derivative of Marlin on a printer instead of just adding their configuration to the upstream Marlin and profit from the community improving things and hence getting positive reviews because of it ... And now those companies are starting to do similar stuff with Klipper (or at least derivatives thereof). It's a shame...
@@MisterkeTube The issue is here that it seems the marlin version has changed quite a bit between the mks marlin github repo and the official one. I already tried that and there are lots of issues to fix when you want to keep the configuration possibilities from the robin nano.
You would also still loose the file preview feature from mks that can display the print object on the screen and some other mks additions.
the marlin version in the mks repo is actually not that old but the recent changes broke the firmware up to the point that it can't even read from sd anymore (i'm actually a software developer and i debugged it to some extent but it would be a lot of work to fix it all).
While I agree with your statement about custom repos, i looked at the mks code and it's organized very badly. This might be one of the reasons why it is so buggy.
Not only that, but they do lots of similar marlin things in a different way, instead of sticking to standard methods.
That way the marlin team would never accept changes from them. I certainly would not.
In my opinion installing klipper will be easier in the long run. anyone who wants to go back to the official merlin version can of course to this. I won't because of the easier configurability in klipper an lots of other benefits.
Btw. I got myself an mks pi board with the 3,5inch touch screen to replace the one in the printer.
@@Noxoreos You will indeed lose some of the "user-friendliness" of the touchscreen when moving to Marlin and when moving to Klipper you lose that touchscreen completely, but both Marlin and Klipper run fine on a Nano 1.2. I have a Sapphire Plus with the same board and touchscreen. With Marlin I would use the touchscreen in a simulation mode for the rotary button control of ex. an Ender3. Not super user-friendly, but more functional than the nice GUI. With Klipper it remains black and is now covered up by an old Android tablet running KlipperScreen. I'll choose good printing quality and speed over a nice touchscreen GUI every time. And dump the wifi ESP8266 connected to the Nano. It's a suoer slow communication link. Instead get a Pi to run Klipper (or Octoprint), it will give you a way better wifi experience.
@@MisterkeTube Yes, I know that touchscreen will be useless with klipper. I'm choosing quality as well over user friendliness. And since the original robin nano firmware from mks is to much of a hassle for my taste after finding out about all the problems, I went with klipper. Changing parameters without flashing firmware is my biggest reason to install klipper because i try out many things and also build my own stuff for the printer. And because i like having a screen ready to be used when i want to check something in front of the device, I got an mks pi with a 3,5" screen that runs klipperscreen. It can be bought together as a bundle with the mks pi. And it fits in place of the touchscreen from the robin nano. So i don't need an extra tablet. It's alright for the basic stuff like viewing the progress and simple configuration.
Very interesting vid, love seeing your knowledge
Thanks! I’ll keep working on improving.
Once you start using klipper, the screen can be binned, mobileraker on android or just fluidd is so much better than klipperscreen or the bogstandard lcd
Will look into it! Thanks!
@@TommyHoughton its gotten to the point where i just flash klipper as soon as possible, I don't even remember how to use marlin anymore
Just a wild guess, but it might be because of the thermistor. My guess is that it's either broken or not properly setup in the firmware, which might've reported a lower incorrect temperature, causing thermal runaway.
You’re right, in the upcoming part two I swapped it out twice and everything started working properly. Also did a pid tune and everything is within a degree at all times.
i would love to see you work on a konoovo
That would be fun, perhaps I can partner with them one day to make that happen.
You and me are in the same boat. I have 5-7 more printers to fix and make work for my shop. Glad to find a channel like yours. Subbed!!!
Thanks! Best of luck fixing your printers!
Wow, love the detail & patience you have in troubleshooting the issues with this printer - I found the process quite fascinating! 😀
Love it, let's see if you can beat my 6:49 benchy on that (i think it's a fair fight
Part two is coming out soon where I push this machine with upgrades! Aiming for under 20m right now, but I should be able to get 15m. Thanks for your comment!
@@TommyHoughton you are welcome brother, let me know if you wanna do a Collab
@@Lucas_sGarageonce I get everything modified I’d love to have a friendly Benchy race. Would be good fun. *not sure if my machine would comply with the speedboatrace rules tho but I would have to check
@@TommyHoughton as long as you have steppers, a (up to) 0.5mm nozzle 2 perimeters, 3 top and bottom layers and 10% infill you are set
I'm currently using a .6mm CHT nozzle, so I would have to find something else. I'll keep you updated with this.
Great Video Man New Sub!!
Thanks! I really appreciate it.
Yo your so underrated bro the amount of effort in these videos are crazy
Thanks! I really appreciate it!
Yo, you missing 000 behind your sub count, love the content, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks so much! I’ll keep working and improving!
Catch Like! Well done!👍
Thank you!
Are you making your hands look bigger on camera, or what is up with that warping?
Some shots utilise digital stabilisation in post while handheld which may or may not affect it. I’m also using a 50mm lens. I’m not trying to influence anything here this video was more “run-and-gun” in terms of filming so there was less outside planning.
prusa bear... beta?
Possibly, I’m unsure what version specifically.
You got the printer cheap. Kudos.
Im so sick of 3d printing being referred to as a journey. Its a tool. I didnt go on a journey to learn how to use a hammer ffs.
Only 300 subs is crazy
I’ll keep working hard to grow, It’s only a matter of time. Thanks for your comment!
@@TommyHoughton I was thinking you had 300k+
great video.
Thank you!