Can we Make a High Quality 3D Print?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2024
- I'm TIRED of making 3d prints that are throw-away junk.
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3D Prints look cheap, and feel cheap. In this video, we'll address this by throwing a few solid techniques at the prints while also using 3D printing for what it excels at, and using traditional hand-crafting methods and bringing the two together to see if we can make something that looks and feels like a quality product.
A shout out to @Willofthemaker for sharing his techniques for making prints that look like the ones shown in the video.
It isn't enough to just 3D print a part solid. First we need to pick the right material. If we try to use a low-quality filament, we're going to see a lot of variation in the diameter, and that will translate into more visible layer lines. Picking a quality filament is the first and one of the most important factors.
We also want to print HEAVY, when you tap on a print, it should feel solid, not hollow, it's a small thing, but it helps quite a bit.
The color of the print does make a difference. It's a matter of preference in a way, but there are some colors that look more pro, and those are darker colors. Light and bright colors look cheap, like kids toys.
For the rest of the tips, check out the video.
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
Download the model yourself:
www.patreon.com/Needitmakeit/...
Close up images of the fuzzy surface
imgur.com/a/XhgtNMB
#bambu
#crealityk1
#3dprinting - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Using fuzzy skin to make the exterior look more professional is really intriguing! I don’t have an issue with layer lines but having the option to make it appear textured is something I’ll be looking into more. Great video!
Yea fr. I really underestimated fuzzy skin and thought it's just a stupid thing to play around.
Respect on the precision you're using in the design and the skills of making the stuff exact in 360 first!
Hey thanks. It takes quite a bit of time, the cool thing is that now I have the model I can re-design, or give access to other people if they'd like to make their own. I was thinking about a soft-cover option as well from TPU, having the model make it so much easier. Unfortunately all I have is white TPU, and it looks really cheap. I think it needs to be a dark color, maybe even with fuzzy skin on it!
@@NeedItMakeItMaybe try out some soft PLA. I bet you can get a higher quality look/feel with it easier than TPU.
@@NeedItMakeIt The Fuzzy skin is a good idea, I have never used that feature before but It can come in handy, well done.
@@sierraecho884 Thanks! Normally I wouldn't use it either, adding grip is one use and I have a video on that, but I kind of like it for PETG, even just a tiny amount helps with that sheen, so maybe it's a keeper.
The sides of the prusament spools come off fairly easy from the cardboard core. You could print your own higher precision sides and replace them without the hassle of unspooling. You can also buy some prusament as a refill without the sides at all.
Always helpful - thanks for sharing this practical project. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you! Of course, it's my pleasure. I have another kind of cool one on the way within the next few days. Adapting extremely old techniques for construction to give a functional result for 3D printing. I've no idea if anyone will find it useful, but I thought it was at least interesting and worth sharing maybe someone can build on the concept and improve it as well.
I just discovered your channel with your Z spacer mod for the k1. I really like your content, very professional and interesting to watch. And woodworking is another of my hobbies so I couldn't be more happy with this video ❤ keep up the great work ;)
Awesome, that's great to hear! I'm shooting for 2 new videos/wk, hopefully I can ramp up to a bit more. Woodworking is a great hobby especially these days if you can do the work yourself and save some $$. Woodworking is my trade, and my passion as well, but 3D printing is pretty high on the list too. Thanks for your kind words and for taking the time!
I’d like a tutorial on how you modeled everything.
If you want to see a similar style of going from a circle to a rectangle, check out Aurora Tech's tutorial for Fusion 360:
th-cam.com/video/yjaei8kaNmA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6SjQW4L2d3yIMS1n
The premise for the mic shape seems to be nearly identical to lofting and multiple planes she does for her oven button - just with opposite sizes for the circle/rectangle
You can "model" where the seam will go during the design process, and it would be nice to see how well you were able to reproduce the through hole on the side of the mic holder.
Great video, I like how meticulously you went about it. I dont know if I should mention this, but the non-clack mic holders kinda ended up looking a bit like plungers. The black ones look terrific though.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
It's all good, as long as they look like high-quality plungers :) The Black CF always looks so pro. There are other CF filament colors available now, I wonder if they'd make any difference in the look. I still need to make a holder if I want to store them or desk, mount them... could be a future video! Everyone needs a holder for their plungers.
The bambu carbon fiber filaments have been my absolute favorite. Ive been using grey PETG-CF and black PET-CF to make card holders with levers, after dialing in print speeds (the PETG needed to be WAY slower than the bambu defaults to look really consistent on my p1s, like 75-125mm/s) they have an amazing finish. I tried doing a few in PLA instead, but they really feel cheap in comparison. I have not had an issue with the CF scratching the cards.
3D printed inserts into wooden shells is what I'm working on now. It hides the 3D printed part but allows you do do complex geometries with the plastic core. You could also laminate veneers onto flat 3D printed surfaces so the printed parts are just a subtle accent color.
Great video on a topic I wish was covered more.
I’d have liked to see some more close up shots though.
Thanks! You're right, and I usually give more close ups. I've provided a few close-ups in the description links. I will make sure to do more of that in future videos, thanks for the feedback.
Very useful video, I have been 3D printing for 5 years and I just heard of the fuzzy skin feature from your video. Subbed.
At 8:18 , were you using wooodchips to burnish the handle?
Also, in your slicer - was that a tree support that went up to the rectangular opening in the side? If so, did it need to be added from the build plate like that or could it have been supports from the bottom to the top of the opening in some grid pattern?
I recommend Polymaker ASA in Black or white. it’s a bit pricier than other filaments but it prints so good and the „matte“ finish is amazing. I use it always for carparts, works perfectly and looks good. just make sure it’s dry before printing
Would you not be able to print a couple of snap in collet washers to make the center of that PETG spool wider, which would allow for more width clearance at the outer edges? (not sure about the spool holder mechanics.)
i love seeing the combination of 3D printing alongside traditional methods to create products, definitely adds a quality feel to it
That's great thanks for letting me know. I'm using them a bit more than I expected. Who knew that mounting a mic to a stick would make a difference. The wood gives it something extra, I might have to do this for more of my prints coming up. I wonder if inlays of wood, or veneering a 3d print would look alright?
@@NeedItMakeItwould love to see you try that!
Nice video. I like the combination of skills, wood working and 3D printing. Matte filaments always looks better to me. I have also notice printing hotter also reduces the shiny finish.
Thanks! I've been thinking about using a 3D print to make casting molds for alum. as well, that combined with some wood might make for some very nice parts. It's a lot of work of course and I need a better setup for pre-heating. The wood really does look good, and I think that the combo makes it seem a bit higher quality, there was definitely more effort put in. I agree, the matte finish looks so much better. I like working with PETG, but that sheen just looks terrible in the final product. PLA or ABS would be better for the matte look. I think Prusa makes a matte PETG which is not CF as well, I believe there are a few other options that might be worth trying. The matte finish with Black looks really smart, I like the blue as well, but I think it needed to be darker blue for a more elegant look.
really good work! so many 3d printed parts look cheap and unprofessional, in large part, i suspect, because it's so easy to make parts that designers don't feel the need to make each part beautiful.
Thank you! I have a feeling that most of what we're making will end up in the trash, and if we decided to focus more on quality, it's going to be more likely to get use and for us to see that it has some value. A part that feels and acts like an injection molded piece is probably the best as far as plastics...or move to metal.
I'm not much of a toy guy, there are some amazing ones out there, credit to those designers, they're far more talented that I am. I really like things to be made and then used for a long time. They should have a purpose. That's me, I'm not necessarily right I just don't like waste and see these things thrown out because they have no value.
Since I hate gluing stuff I would probably attach the handle like one would attach an axe with a screw from the inside which deform the wood a little and clamps it to the plastic.
Don´t forget 3D printing is perfect for prototypes which can be cast later on in metal for example, you can also do it at home if you use ZAMAC for instance with a melting point of roughly 400°C.
You can also use jigs and fixtures to bend, hammer form or press sheet metal into place for a great product as well.
I really like printing regular PLA at lower temperatures, that gives it a mate finish and parts look really good.
Or just change to higher speed!
Or use matte PLA!
And split at the slightest force because the layers didn't weld at all just hugged each other's texture like hot glue...
@@daliasprints9798 it's a myth. You need to print really cold to lose strength.
@@ioscaleb matte PLA is meh and hard to work with.
Great lathe work nice finish for your product nice 3D printing easy access for charging nice colour printing for your product 😁😎
Thanks! I have been wanting to use my lathe for a long time, it's nice to finally put it to use. I like the combo, doing something like that fully from wood.... would be tough. I have CNC, but work-holding & tooling is an issue, and then we have a pretty weak part in the end after removing so much material. I've been using them more than I thought I would. I like to use them as a storage place as well so they're easy to spot, and I don't mind using the mic that way either; it feels a little more professional for some reason.
The fuzzy finish doesn't look that nice to my eyes, but the Carbon finish does look more like we'd expect to find on proffesional hardware.
The wood parts are fabulous. Might be nice to dump the Rode logo and put a show or stations own logo in there.
It might sound counterintuitive, but when using the fuzzy feature, use random seams. Down to 0.05 they will hide very well amongst the texture.
Another thing, Lilac is a wonderful wood to use for Everything! Everyone should use lilac! The only reason I say this is because about 2 months out of the year, I have allergy issues because of this hateful flowering bush! Cut it down, burn it, use it to make anything you like. Makes me happy to see!
Nice Video
Try Fiberlogy MATTFLEX 40D, it is a TPU with a matte finish and low visibility of the layer boundaries,
I've had it for a few days, it's awesome.
Or you could also use Abs/Asa and smooth ist with acetone,i use this very often,the parts lock lilke they were injection molded.
I've never heard of it, I just had a look and you're right it does look really good. Is it too rubbery for something like this?
it would be great if you can do a video about your printing settings
May you test this inner spool weights with your AMS and Prusa rolls or even other solutions including heavy mods like HydraAMS?
The black look good for sure... I would put some color in the logo either with filament or paint... Then it would reall pop...!!!
Nice idea, I may have to take that. I have a few design tweaks I would like to make on it. I need some type of trigger to allow me to turn it off while it's being held so I can save the battery.
I think with a translucent white finish on the handle the orange one could look quite good
Cover up that beautiful natural wood? Says the woodworker. Yeah, I guess it's really a matter of taste, I've been using the black and blue versions, since I only needed two, they're all working fell and feel good in hand, I think there is only one change I'd like to make, that is to add some way of turning the power off to save the battery without having to remove them from the holder. The button is on the bottom, and it'd be a nice feature. Aside from that, they're really good, very happy.
@@NeedItMakeIt the grain would still be visible though if that's a solace lol. Translucent white has been a popular finish with electric guitars lately, I think it looks quite elegant. You've done a really nice job with these, amazing how much of a difference the texture makes. Maybe you could make a compliant mechanism to bridge the button press with a second button on the side of the holder?
Vapor polishing🤔, Woodwork is good though. Will take note of the polyurethane adhesive, for future projects.❤👍
combining build methods and materials is a great idea. I'D love to see more people using leather, for example, to make straps or other flexible components, instead of printing out a line of TPA
I've got a shamisen I've printed out and bound leather to the sound box. I'm a rank amateur though, so it's an ugly job, but the leather-wrapped PLA feels fantastic.
There aren't any limits, most people don't work with leather, it's an amazing material to work with, being able to wet-form it, stamp it and stain it. I'd love to try to integrate it into some designs. Great idea. I still have some from a few past jobs. I spent a few years learning leatherworking, but I never got great, just okay.
I'd love to see a picture of it.
what are the programs he is using? Please
Hi, sure, I use mainly Fusion 360 for creating models, and I use Orca Slicer for...well slicing for printing. Fusion isn't too cheap unless you purchase a year or more at once, but it's one of the better options out there right now. There are some others which could be very competitive but I have yet to learn them yet. Blender is free and has some capability, but it's a different style and it wouldn't allow you to edit details after changes are made very easily. I hope that answers your question.
New to channel, was nice. 👍✌🖖🥃
Thanks! It's something a little different from the norm. Not everyone has a lathe of course, but maybe there's an idea here or there that people could use on their own projects.
Hey great build. Really doesn't look like it was 3d printed at all.
One short note. Please use a riving knife on your table saw for your own safety. When standing directly infront of the tablesaw it is quite likely for a piece to catch and get throw at you at lightspeed and that part usually loves to suck your hand in as well.
Cheers!
I kitbash the parts that don't make the cut into mecha characters, a little like figure garage kits.
How about to change in NiMI logo the "I" for an "!" as a reflection of "i"?
Love this video but you didn't give any closeups of the fuzzy skin. I also experimented with that but I absolutely hated the look of that (although yours look much better but again, no closeups).
I went for a matte pla (esun) which also gives that look of the carbon fiber (but for a lot less money).
Sorry about that, I've just setup one of my cameras, which has the 50mm lens on it to be stationary, so I guess I missed out on some of the shots I'd usually take with it. I've taken some shots of them now and I can add links to the images in the description. I kind of wish I had picked darker colors, dark grey, navy blue, and maybe dark red. There's always the next video!
Wasnt aware of "fuzzy" going to experiment with it.
Please use that table saw with some kind of protection i saw a lot of accidents happen, with your setup you could easily get kick back for wood in your chest.
I see a lot of hateful comments, although this particular item is not something i personaly need, i find your techniques very interesting that i can use in my projects when 3d printing some of my stuff.
I feel that a lot of people don't understand that this video can be used for other projects and not just for this mic holder.
Thanks for your comments, all woodworking machines are dangerous, they are in fact more dangerous with a guard when cutting small parts, it is better to know where you hands are at all times and respect the power of the machines. There is no chance of kick back while using my push stick. I am a Woodworker by trade, this is something I have been trained on formally, and I have been in the industry for 20+ years now, I have seen my fair share of accidents. By far the most common causes of injury are from people who are inexperienced, from distraction and from working while exhausted. One key to cutting small parts on the table saw with success is to have a zero clearance throat plate, an outfeed table is also nice.
There is always 5% of people who will hate what you are doing no matter what, these people are most likely insecure themselves. I'm not concerned about those people. If the majority of comments are positive or inquisitive, that's fine by me, there is no need to try and please everyone, it is an impossible task.
Most of my videos are just ideas and I try and wrap them up into a project of some kind, it might not suit everyone, but it's different than most of what I see online, so I'll run with it.
Your definition of quality seems like my definition of luxe, or maybe high-end. That’s fine - I just think of it more as durable, reliable, and consistent.
It was a big change to see someone wanting and achieving the goal of printing something professional looking and functional. You get a solid A in my book. I loved the Walnut with CF the best even though Natural Cherry is my favorite by far.
I would be perfectly fine if I never see another Benchy for the rest of my life. I'm actually going to start unsubscribing from all of these channels that print garbage with completely un-tuned printers. Example - "30 functional prints that will make your life easier". But they look like shit and have no strength because I have a shit printer that is completely un-tuned because I spend all of my time making decent quality video's of JUNK that will clutter your life and your desk.
Thank You for the breath of fresh air and inspiration to print something you can be proud of.
P.S. - I wanted to give you an A+ but stuck with the A only because the wooden handle is just a bit boring. I found myself wanting you to cut in just a couple of bands on the lathe or anything geometrically different so they weren't just a straight taper with a flat end.
A suggestion if you want to create functional parts that will look great, stand up to anything like heat, UV light and is as strong if not stronger than injection molded pieces... try PAHF-CF or PET-CF. It's expensive but for things that are going to be used around a shop it can't be beat. Plus you can create all kinds of things that you can't buy. 👻 🔫
This is awesome. I love 3D printing but I hate the way 3D printed objects look.
nice
Slick!
Yeah, worked out nicely, the black with the walnut handle looks pretty smart. I'm using them a bit more than expected, I can mount the mic to a stand and get really close for excellent sound quality. I think adding a few threaded inserts might be nice, maybe something from.
@@NeedItMakeIt Oooh yeah threaded inserts would make them even more useful. It sounded great when you were holding it.
@@802Garage For sure, I think I'll do an updated version with some added features then, try to integrate inserts and maybe some type of holster so I can act all cool and holster it on my belt. That would be hilarious actually. Probably would make for a pretty good self defense tool as well. One thing I noticed as well after using it is that the on/off is at the bottom, and it'd be nice to easily access that while it's being held, not quite sure how to do that, but I'm sure there is some way.
I wonder how easy it would be to add 1/4-20 inserts into a print, they've gotta be pretty big. Maybe pre-heat them first?
@@NeedItMakeIt Lots of different ways to do inserts, but yeah plenty of tutorials on heat pressing them in with a soldering iron. You can look up some strength testing vids too. For the bottom switch if it's not too difficult you could cut a slot on the wood and 3D print some kind of switch mechanism, but def getting complex there, hahaha.
@@802Garage I'll have to check them out, I don't do inserts too often... though I just did a few for a video releasing tomorrow, they were just tiny inserts. Ah, I wasn't thinking about that, that's a pretty good idea, press maybe from the bottom of the handle or have it on some type of pivot action on a trigger of sorts. Hey you've got some good ideas!
Great Video! Not gonna lie I thought these were farm tools.
Thanks! Best compliment from my perspective.
FDM prints are always more or less prototypes. If want a perfect mass production plastic product, it need to made with injection molding.
For sure, though I think we're soon going to see some tech for a better option as a competitor to injection.
I knew that WW2 german hand granade looked different ... xD
Man: wet sanding, paint, finisher.
Are you referring to the plastic?
@@NeedItMakeIt Aye, for what you print, there's no wet sanding for wood.
@@eaman11 I can't say I've ever wet-sanded a 3d print, but I can see that working well for ABS. Wet sanding wood was a thing, though not used very often the purpose is to raise the grain. The only time that is needed is when the work does not have a finish applied. Pretty much an obsolete technique these days. On occasion I would wet-sand a table top with a few coats of varnish on it as well.
@@NeedItMakeIt Seriously man, learn some 3d print post production, it ain't anything new, there's tones of tutorials even on youtube.
@@eaman11 I'd prefer not to waste time post-processing, the goal is to try to get closer to a quality product directly from the printer. I've done my fair share of sanding, it is not my favorite thing to do, by all means go wild and enjoy yourself :)
extend the internal hole all the wau down and put the seam on the inside. ffs.
MIC WAND
LOL. The Mic Wand, that sounds pretty nice with a dash of nerd as well. I should use a Diablo 2 naming convention for my parts. The Wandering Mic.
Carbon fibre is great. But in this case you probably should not use it, because it will scratch up you mic.
That's a good point, nice thinking. Ideally the inside would be lined with some kind of stick on velvet. Any thoughts on that?
@@NeedItMakeIt Either that, or maybe a soft TPU inlay. I think at least with the new cura you can combine materials pretty easily, so Putting TPU on the Inside to prevent scratching should actually not that hard.
@@XA--pb9ni I think I need to buy some black TPU, all I have it white and it looks pretty cheap. I'll give the mixing a try though. TPU is probably the simplest way to do it, adding velvet to the inside of that small space would take some dexterity that I don't know I have. I haven't touched Cura much, I'll dive back in, I have an Ender 3V3 now, it might be a good way to start printing with it, though it does run Klipper.
If you want a quality look, 3d print and electroplate the print. You spray it with conductive paint. The metal only goes where the paint goes.
...or just get yourself a resin printer! As far as detail goes and less "toy plastic"feel. Plus you can get it to have exact measurements and sharp corners etc.
I'm open, for smaller parts like that it probably makes sense. I haven't gone down the resin path yet, but I want to. I have been waiting for some new tech to come out which blows the rest of out printers away. Printing with lasers in Gel seems like it might be one of the newer methods. Do resin printers allow printing in dark colors or are they mainly clearish/white?
@@NeedItMakeIt The laser/gel way is a long time from being practical, just a concept/prototype at this point, that will definitely take a few years, but i also love it, haha. Colors are possible, but painting really is the best way.
bruh what is that support lol
Which one, the tree support?
Never mind...I see you are using fuzzy skin. 4:10 are you in ludicrous mode or something? The finish on that print looks off.
I think it was just the lighting in there, that's the same print shown in the final product, the top lighting probably made it looks strange.
Ive never 3d printed anything that was throw-away junk. Speaking of which, if you dont glue the plastic onto the handle, you can reuse that wood when you realize that you will barely use one of those, let alone 3.
You can enjoy the hobby while also being critical of its flaws. You don't need to get defensive about it. 3D printing hobbyists - myself included - are avid producers of plastic waste.
The single biggest thing that gets me down about this hobby is that maybe 80% of anything I've ever seen a hobbyist printing on Reddit or Facebook is throwaway junk.
If you do anything meaningful aka designing your own parts, you are a waster of plastic due to all the prototype junk. It’s that simple.
@@user-yk1cw8im4hwhat do you think the point of a prototype is?💀💀💀
@@kronk4621 well, if it goes to the landfill then it's a junk.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h not necessarily. It let's you test what will work and what won't. And even then, 3d printers aren't the only things that do that🤣
A whole video for that shit 😂😂😂
Can you provide a bit more info or detail, what were you expecting, what would you improve, in other words, how would you do it? Thanks.
Hey shitposter, do you have anything better to share?
prints are not looking good at all sorry
You have very high standards, I like that. Can you show me a picture of what your ideal high quality print looks like?
The quality of the bamboo printers is quite bad. Someone needs to make a more rigid machine capable of holding tolerance.
Dumb comment. These printers are best in its class without going custom, enthusiast or commercial grade
yes, precision is great - seems someone here not able to use them right
Whole video about making parts that look professional and it all looks horrible. Pass on this channel.