UPDATE: Hamish has his printer back and has successfully printed a bunch of models already. He's printed a scaled benchy just as I did, although he did his much larger so I'll have to reprint and make mine bigger, as well as some terrain pieces as well. I'm very pleased with this project and so is Hamish.
Hello Tommy! Greetings from Germany this video just popped randomly on my feed and as a fellow AnyCubic 3D Printer user who is building his own 3D Printer (Voron) I can tell you, that AnyCubic is cheaping out on a lot of damn crap with weird issues. One Tip I can give you is what ever you see that can be tighten... TIGHTEN IT! Especially on AnyCubic FDM Printers!!! Tune the belt-tension to 110hz (You can use a Phone for that). Change the Teflon tube to a god damn Capricorn PTFE tube! NO REGRETS!!!!
Hey there! Thanks for the tips! I must give that belt tension technique a trick. I've had around 5 Anycubic machines, and I've certainly noticed a variety of issues across them from broken parts to stuff just not working. Best of luck with your Voron! I really hope to build one in the future. I'd love to hear how it goes!
I am slowly getting it started parts wise, I personally run an AnyCubic Vyper and that thing has so many issues.... A friend recommended it to me. I wanted my first printer to be actually an Ender but he convinced me to buy the Vyper for the automatic bed leveling. Like I said, AnyCubic really likes to cheap out on their FDM-achines same can be said for the pcbs. If you look deep into the AC-Printer lines everyone will recommend you to just run a custom firmware or just throw away the display and start running mainsail/klipper. Also Cheers mate! @@TommyHoughton
I liked this video to previous ones not because of the content but the way you presented it. The live commentary mixed with a bit of comedy made the video and the content almost seem to fly by great video again pookie.
Is it possible to increase the stepper motor current on this machine? I would imagine that could prevent some of the layer skipping issues and potentially let you go a bit faster than what was in the video. Excellent work regardless and I look forward to the next upload :)
It should be possible (and definetly help with the issues,) there isn't much information on the specs though so I'm unsure if I can use gcode to change it or it requires a reflash of Marlin. I may contact Anycubic for more details. If the video performs well, I'll get some info off them, and get some parts and stuff planned for an upgrade video. Thanks! I have some big videos planned for the coming months :D
I just had a look on the anycubic website, from the looks of things the anycubic go boards seem to have the small potentiometer screws that you can use to tune the VREF of the stepper motors. I wouldn't know myself how to measure the current but I believe Teaching Tech does a pretty good video on adjusting the current that way. Best of luck :)
@@wrathblox500 I’ve done that before on a separate machine, should easily be possible on this one too. Thanks for the info! If I give it a go I’ll let you know.
Great video, Tommy! I'm sure Hamish will be pleased with the results. I think I prefer your live commentary - it sounds more natural. As always, thanks for sharing! 😀🦾
stupid question about stepper motor does the coil pinout used on creality printers "standard" (a1 empty b1 a2 empty b2) or is it only standard on creality printers because all stepper motors i bought used on ebay recently are different ( a1, empty or middlesplit, a2, b1, empty or middlesplit, b2) since you swaped motor from creality printer to anurybic you should know if you had toswap middle pins of the plug or not :P it is kind of funny issue but i never tryed to question it untill now
I wasn’t able to use the Creality motor because it wasn’t the right size so I didn’t end up trying to see if it worked, however I did have a spare other motor that was the right size, but when I plugged it in and tried to use the Z axis it wouldn’t work, so I’m assuming the wiring was different and that would require the swapping of some wires. I’m not very good with wiring stepper motors, I’ve had issues in the past which I usually left, or tried to solve with firmware. I wish I had the knowledge to answer your question properly. I hope you find the answer you’re looking for.
@@TommyHoughton ok that answers some of it, , but sinc you know less than i asumed i will share some info that you may find usefull later unipolar stepper motor usually have 2 coils a and be so it uses 4 wires a1 or a+ a2 or a- b1 or b+ and b2 or b - the main thing being on creality printers coil a is always connected to pin 1 and 4 of the plug and coil b to pins 3 and 6, in all my other motors coil a is connected to pin 1 and 3 while coil b is connected to pin 4 and 6 with cocasional motor having half way windings for each coil on pins 2 and 5 usually if direction is wrong you just have to flip a plug upside down in other words swaping coils a for b on the driver and if motor buzz in place it usually means one coil is right way the other one is in reverse i am assuming for use any motor that don't want to run on creality you have to swap pins 3 and 4 on the motor plug, i did that and didn't even care if the direction woul be the same while replacing extruder motor on my ender, surprisingly direction was right on first try i might be wrong on some parts but this is what i learned from experience
@@kokodin5895 Thanks for sharing! I’ve done a few projects involving stepper motors, and I plan on doing more, so that info is really helpful. That also explains some issues I’ve had previously. I’ll know next time how to handle them. Thanks again!
UPDATE: Hamish has his printer back and has successfully printed a bunch of models already. He's printed a scaled benchy just as I did, although he did his much larger so I'll have to reprint and make mine bigger, as well as some terrain pieces as well. I'm very pleased with this project and so is Hamish.
Lesgoo Tommy, another great video. I'm sure Hamish will be pleased haha
Thanks Otis! I can’t wait for Hamish to get back to printing after all this time lol
Hello Tommy! Greetings from Germany this video just popped randomly on my feed and as a fellow AnyCubic 3D Printer user who is building his own 3D Printer (Voron) I can tell you, that AnyCubic is cheaping out on a lot of damn crap with weird issues. One Tip I can give you is what ever you see that can be tighten... TIGHTEN IT! Especially on AnyCubic FDM Printers!!! Tune the belt-tension to 110hz (You can use a Phone for that). Change the Teflon tube to a god damn Capricorn PTFE tube! NO REGRETS!!!!
Hey there! Thanks for the tips! I must give that belt tension technique a trick. I've had around 5 Anycubic machines, and I've certainly noticed a variety of issues across them from broken parts to stuff just not working. Best of luck with your Voron! I really hope to build one in the future. I'd love to hear how it goes!
I am slowly getting it started parts wise, I personally run an AnyCubic Vyper and that thing has so many issues.... A friend recommended it to me. I wanted my first printer to be actually an Ender but he convinced me to buy the Vyper for the automatic bed leveling. Like I said, AnyCubic really likes to cheap out on their FDM-achines same can be said for the pcbs. If you look deep into the AC-Printer lines everyone will recommend you to just run a custom firmware or just throw away the display and start running mainsail/klipper. Also Cheers mate! @@TommyHoughton
I came here for the Water-cooled Xbox 360 and stayed for the Broken 3D Printer series, awesome content keep up the great work !
Thanks for that!
I liked this video to previous ones not because of the content but the way you presented it. The live commentary mixed with a bit of comedy made the video and the content almost seem to fly by great video again pookie.
Thanks for the feedback Leo! Always appreciate it. Will keep working on that for future videos.
Is it possible to increase the stepper motor current on this machine? I would imagine that could prevent some of the layer skipping issues and potentially let you go a bit faster than what was in the video. Excellent work regardless and I look forward to the next upload :)
It should be possible (and definetly help with the issues,) there isn't much information on the specs though so I'm unsure if I can use gcode to change it or it requires a reflash of Marlin. I may contact Anycubic for more details. If the video performs well, I'll get some info off them, and get some parts and stuff planned for an upgrade video. Thanks! I have some big videos planned for the coming months :D
I just had a look on the anycubic website, from the looks of things the anycubic go boards seem to have the small potentiometer screws that you can use to tune the VREF of the stepper motors. I wouldn't know myself how to measure the current but I believe Teaching Tech does a pretty good video on adjusting the current that way. Best of luck :)
@@wrathblox500 I’ve done that before on a separate machine, should easily be possible on this one too. Thanks for the info! If I give it a go I’ll let you know.
The fact you didn't initially brush off the dust on the print bed hurts my soul
I’ll make sure it doesn’t happen again
Great video, Tommy! I'm sure Hamish will be pleased with the results. I think I prefer your live commentary - it sounds more natural. As always, thanks for sharing! 😀🦾
Thanks Auntie!
stupid question about stepper motor
does the coil pinout used on creality printers "standard" (a1 empty b1 a2 empty b2)
or is it only standard on creality printers because all stepper motors i bought used on ebay recently are different ( a1, empty or middlesplit, a2, b1, empty or middlesplit, b2)
since you swaped motor from creality printer to anurybic you should know if you had toswap middle pins of the plug or not :P
it is kind of funny issue but i never tryed to question it untill now
I wasn’t able to use the Creality motor because it wasn’t the right size so I didn’t end up trying to see if it worked, however I did have a spare other motor that was the right size, but when I plugged it in and tried to use the Z axis it wouldn’t work, so I’m assuming the wiring was different and that would require the swapping of some wires. I’m not very good with wiring stepper motors, I’ve had issues in the past which I usually left, or tried to solve with firmware.
I wish I had the knowledge to answer your question properly. I hope you find the answer you’re looking for.
@@TommyHoughton ok that answers some of it, , but sinc you know less than i asumed i will share some info that you may find usefull later
unipolar stepper motor usually have 2 coils a and be so it uses 4 wires a1 or a+ a2 or a- b1 or b+ and b2 or b -
the main thing being on creality printers coil a is always connected to pin 1 and 4 of the plug and coil b to pins 3 and 6, in all my other motors coil a is connected to pin 1 and 3 while coil b is connected to pin 4 and 6 with cocasional motor having half way windings for each coil on pins 2 and 5
usually if direction is wrong you just have to flip a plug upside down in other words swaping coils a for b on the driver and if motor buzz in place it usually means one coil is right way the other one is in reverse
i am assuming for use any motor that don't want to run on creality you have to swap pins 3 and 4 on the motor plug, i did that and didn't even care if the direction woul be the same while replacing extruder motor on my ender, surprisingly direction was right on first try
i might be wrong on some parts but this is what i learned from experience
@@kokodin5895 Thanks for sharing! I’ve done a few projects involving stepper motors, and I plan on doing more, so that info is really helpful. That also explains some issues I’ve had previously. I’ll know next time how to handle them. Thanks again!
3d print a 3d printer.
Great content - new sub!
That’s great to hear, thanks!