Extremely helpful. Got an 05 crank no start intermittent but I think it's when it's warm. It had an IPR code but he replaced the IPR and of course it still wouldn't start. So I think I'm going to go straight to that stand pipe and pull it out and check that o ring. Watched another video that showed how to get the pipe out without removing the rail.
Excellent video best explication I have seen. Thank you so much keep up the great work. I have a 06 will not start cold or hot. I spray starting fluid and it cranks and runs good.
I just had the same problem, when warm I have 318 PSI at the ICP sensor and I'm gonna do the air test to find ICP leak and hope it just a stand pipe and not injectors. Great video!
Thank you sir! Don't think this is my problem, as it cuts out randomly while driving. But a friend said the sensor could be fried so I'll try that. Outstanding video nonetheless!
Thank-you for your great camera work trouble shooting and detailed disassembly procedure including tool sizes and descriptions and your calm attack on a difficult job! ;)
Thanks man, wish I had more time to make videos but I’m a manager at the day job now so finding time is hard, also part quality has made this job difficult, super tired of doing jobs 2 or 3 times because parts are failing
I have an 06 that will start mostly fine when cold. I had replaced the fuel pump because it was cranking long and had to stomp the gas to get it to start cold or hot, and it will come to life when cold and will run good until I cut it off. If I try to start it hot it will just crank and then say “TBC fault” also the new fuel pump makes a louder bubbling noise not sure if it’s important but it was not OEM
We have a long crank to start cold and no start when hot. It cranks a long time before the dash shows oil pressure but once it shows it starts up. Just got done replacing all injector, fuel rail nipple o-rings, and pipes/plugs. Oil filter gets oil. Oil pump plug came out no issues. It slid out with no magnet, and no metal was found. Pulled the ipr and screen looked good, no metal found. With scanner, activated ipr and tested good.
Thank you for this video. I have an 05 that is currently experiencing this same issue. I do have a couple of questions if I may: When doing the air leak test through the ICP port, do you not have to command the IPR off first? I watched your video twice and did not hear you mention this. So, I thought I would ask as I am getting ready to leak test mine very soon. Secondly, do you have any idea what would cause the ICP senor to keep going out? I have had my truck for 7 years and have replaced the ICP 5 times. The first two replacement were not OEM, but the last three have been. Could parking on a hill with the nose down be a possible cause?
The ipr valve will hold up to 500psi I believe without any power to it unless it’s got something jammed in it holding it open, and honestly I’m not sure is your truck tuned? It’s not an item I replace very often, maybe your pressure is super high due to tuning
@@bradgdiesel3243 No tune. EGR deleted but thats it. I believe the previous owner upgraded the head bolts but did not put studs in it. The ICP has been my biggest problem with this truck. Luckily, with it being an 05, the ICP is on the valve cover. So, it has been an easy change out. I know that asking about the truck being parked on the hill may have sounded a little strange, but our drive way was so steep that if I parked my truck at the top with the nose down and on new tires , it would slide down to the bottom of the driveway overnight. I started paying attention to when the icp would go out and it was usually within a few days/weeks of parking the truck nose down in the driveway.
Did 03 have the same issue mine crank no start hot and cold it got worst and worst but sometimes would start like butter i thought hpop or icp sensor ?
BradGDiesel Thanks for the video and explanations, have my shop in Cedar Hill TX . been doing mainly big rigs, pick ups and some auto for 45 yrs. Starting to get more and more 6.0 and 6.4. people tired of paying dealer prices. Cut my teeth on DETROIT 6V92s then CAT and CUMMINS from frame straightening or glider kits to cab repairs and everything under them front to back. Just saying shit load of experience but never too old to learn especially from mechanics that are up to date, current and obviously good at what you do. Most people either have no idea or just don't understand how much and how long alot of what we do REALLY TAKES. Thanks again for your dedication!!! Ernie M.
Just dummy plugs and stand pipes, not a bad idea to check everything else, I have never seen the rail nipples fail unless people have tried to re seal them, so leave them alone, also if you have a bad internal injector o ring I recommend replacing the whole injector
Mine cranks about 3 seconds if not 4 seconds, it’s an 07 but it’s gotten worse slowly, cranked like normal etc then slowly got longer. 198k, I was suspecting stand pipes based on the crank but do you think it could be anything else? It is about 20-30° here right now, it does that long crank while the engine is warm. I don’t wanna be stranded so I’m trying to figure it out
It’s most likely taking longer to build pressure, could be anything stand pipes and dummy plugs are common but could be injector o-ring or something else on the rail, only way to find very small leaks is use something like nitrogen thru the Ipr valve port, otherwise you need to wait until it gets worst to find it
Hello BradGDiesel I have a 6.0 Ford F-250 diesel I changed icp sensor, now it starts but now it shuts off after about 45 of running and dosent start while hot only cold any ideas?
I’m sorry I’m not really sure what your asking, where did you inject the air? It’s tough if your doing it the way I am in this video sometime because the ipr valve will always dump and sound like there’s an air leak that’s why the best way is to actually inject the air thru the ipr valve port if your uncertain
Great video! Question, does there seem to be a mileage point where this happens? And, do you recommend servicing all of the orings on those tubes at a certain mileage? Thanks again!
Usually shops do a flat rate diagnosis for the first hour and then straight time after that, and typically it’s 4-6 hours labour, once you have done a few you can do it faster but you gotta make it worth your time, 700-1000$ depending on shop rates and parts
@@bradgdiesel3243 Hey Brad, do you know any guys in EDm or area that are as sharp on these 6.0l trucks. I want to find a guy around here i can use when i need help with my truck. Awesome video, smart guy for sure. Thanks
@@floydswitzer6556 no unfortunately I don’t know any good places, I understand your frustration for sure not the reliability a diesel should have, I just continue to work on these things because people keep buying them for some reason, same with the 6.4
We are in Dayton Ohio and need a diesel mechanic that knows what he is doing. we have an 03 6.0 that will not start. we have spent a fortune with different shops and still no luck. Any one know a reliable mechanic in our area?
My truck does this but will start if we have a truck with cables on both batteries. And sometimes starting fluid it will start as well. Will this still apply to my truck? 2007 6.0 powerstroke 180k miles.
@bradgdiesel3243 are you in British Columbia? Having same issue on same truck and looking for someone to do the work. If in BC and interested, how could one get a hold of you? Thanks! Justin
Thank you for all of this useful information, I just now know what's wrong with my truck, it's doing exactly what that one is doing.
Glad you got it all figured out man
Extremely helpful. Got an 05 crank no start intermittent but I think it's when it's warm. It had an IPR code but he replaced the IPR and of course it still wouldn't start. So I think I'm going to go straight to that stand pipe and pull it out and check that o ring. Watched another video that showed how to get the pipe out without removing the rail.
Excellent video best explication I have seen. Thank you so much keep up the great work. I have a 06 will not start cold or hot. I spray starting fluid and it cranks and runs good.
The most helpful video ive found!!
We appreciate you Brad..Very mooth, When pointing everything out..👍👍
Thanks for the positive feedback
Great explanation, thank you so much.
I just had the same problem, when warm I have 318 PSI at the ICP sensor and I'm gonna do the air test to find ICP leak and hope it just a stand pipe and not injectors. Great video!
Glad I could help good luck
Thank you sir! Don't think this is my problem, as it cuts out randomly while driving. But a friend said the sensor could be fried so I'll try that. Outstanding video nonetheless!
Sounds like ipr sensor to me
Awesome video
Great video
Thank you sir
Well done thank you.
Thank-you for your great camera work trouble shooting and detailed disassembly procedure including tool sizes and descriptions and your calm attack on a difficult job! ;)
Thanks man, wish I had more time to make videos but I’m a manager at the day job now so finding time is hard, also part quality has made this job difficult, super tired of doing jobs 2 or 3 times because parts are failing
I have an 06 that will start mostly fine when cold. I had replaced the fuel pump because it was cranking long and had to stomp the gas to get it to start cold or hot, and it will come to life when cold and will run good until I cut it off. If I try to start it hot it will just crank and then say “TBC fault” also the new fuel pump makes a louder bubbling noise not sure if it’s important but it was not OEM
Thanks
We have a long crank to start cold and no start when hot. It cranks a long time before the dash shows oil pressure but once it shows it starts up. Just got done replacing all injector, fuel rail nipple o-rings, and pipes/plugs. Oil filter gets oil. Oil pump plug came out no issues. It slid out with no magnet, and no metal was found. Pulled the ipr and screen looked good, no metal found. With scanner, activated ipr and tested good.
Make sure you have the right oil filter in there
Cool!
Thank you for this video. I have an 05 that is currently experiencing this same issue.
I do have a couple of questions if I may:
When doing the air leak test through the ICP port, do you not have to command the IPR off first? I watched your video twice and did not hear you mention this. So, I thought I would ask as I am getting ready to leak test mine very soon.
Secondly, do you have any idea what would cause the ICP senor to keep going out? I have had my truck for 7 years and have replaced the ICP 5 times. The first two replacement were not OEM, but the last three have been. Could parking on a hill with the nose down be a possible cause?
The ipr valve will hold up to 500psi I believe without any power to it unless it’s got something jammed in it holding it open, and honestly I’m not sure is your truck tuned? It’s not an item I replace very often, maybe your pressure is super high due to tuning
@@bradgdiesel3243 No tune. EGR deleted but thats it. I believe the previous owner upgraded the head bolts but did not put studs in it. The ICP has been my biggest problem with this truck. Luckily, with it being an 05, the ICP is on the valve cover. So, it has been an easy change out.
I know that asking about the truck being parked on the hill may have sounded a little strange, but our drive way was so steep that if I parked my truck at the top with the nose down and on new tires , it would slide down to the bottom of the driveway overnight.
I started paying attention to when the icp would go out and it was usually within a few days/weeks of parking the truck nose down in the driveway.
Did 03 have the same issue mine crank no start hot and cold it got worst and worst but sometimes would start like butter i thought hpop or icp sensor ?
Is it normal for a 3-5 second cold start on 6.0?
BradGDiesel Thanks for the video and explanations, have my shop in Cedar Hill TX . been doing mainly big rigs, pick ups and some auto for 45 yrs. Starting to get more and more 6.0 and 6.4. people tired of paying dealer prices. Cut my teeth on DETROIT 6V92s then CAT and CUMMINS from frame straightening or glider kits to cab repairs and everything under them front to back. Just saying shit load of experience but never too old to learn especially from mechanics that are up to date, current and obviously good at what you do. Most people either have no idea or just don't understand how much and how long alot of what we do REALLY TAKES. Thanks again for your dedication!!! Ernie M.
Thank you Ernie, appreciate your response
Did you replace any other seals while in there or the front dummy plug?
Just dummy plugs and stand pipes, not a bad idea to check everything else, I have never seen the rail nipples fail unless people have tried to re seal them, so leave them alone, also if you have a bad internal injector o ring I recommend replacing the whole injector
Can you use that scanner on the 4.5 v6 in the lcf
Honestly my friend not sure about that, If it’s an obd2 plug chances are you can use the basic scanner function to pull codes
Did you turn key on to close IPR valve? Before putting air pressure to it
No need for that the spring in the valve will hold 500 psi with no power to it as long as it isn’t stuck open, I am using shop air 155psi max
Mine cranks about 3 seconds if not 4 seconds, it’s an 07 but it’s gotten worse slowly, cranked like normal etc then slowly got longer. 198k, I was suspecting stand pipes based on the crank but do you think it could be anything else? It is about 20-30° here right now, it does that long crank while the engine is warm. I don’t wanna be stranded so I’m trying to figure it out
It’s most likely taking longer to build pressure, could be anything stand pipes and dummy plugs are common but could be injector o-ring or something else on the rail, only way to find very small leaks is use something like nitrogen thru the Ipr valve port, otherwise you need to wait until it gets worst to find it
Is there a way to identify between what version of stand pipes one has on their engine? What changes were made to them?
The original ones are the 10mm Allen to remove the 12mm Allen is the updated
Hello BradGDiesel I have a 6.0 Ford F-250 diesel I changed icp sensor, now it starts but now it shuts off after about 45 of running and dosent start while hot only cold any ideas?
If your oil level and everything looks good, it could possibly be an injector letting air push back into the fuel system causing it to air lock
What if I didn’t hear a leak from the IPR side but I didn’t push air through the ICP ?
I’m sorry I’m not really sure what your asking, where did you inject the air? It’s tough if your doing it the way I am in this video sometime because the ipr valve will always dump and sound like there’s an air leak that’s why the best way is to actually inject the air thru the ipr valve port if your uncertain
04:42, what PSI? Great video...
Whatever your max air will do, my compressor does 155psi
Great video! Question, does there seem to be a mileage point where this happens? And, do you recommend servicing all of the orings on those tubes at a certain mileage? Thanks again!
How much would a repair like this cost?
Usually shops do a flat rate diagnosis for the first hour and then straight time after that, and typically it’s 4-6 hours labour, once you have done a few you can do it faster but you gotta make it worth your time, 700-1000$ depending on shop rates and parts
I have 161 thousand miles as well and it's doing that right now. Cut off on me today
Very well could be your issue
Injector Orings
Where are you located?
I am near vancouver BC
@@bradgdiesel3243 Hey Brad, do you know any guys in EDm or area that are as sharp on these 6.0l trucks. I want to find a guy around here i can use when i need help with my truck. Awesome video, smart guy for sure. Thanks
@@floydswitzer6556 no unfortunately I don’t know any good places, I understand your frustration for sure not the reliability a diesel should have, I just continue to work on these things because people keep buying them for some reason, same with the 6.4
It won’t crack. What should I do?
Won’t start you mean?
Yup no fuel wants to go in the injectors. Also when I turn the key it doesn’t do anything
We are in Dayton Ohio and need a diesel mechanic that knows what he is doing. we have an 03 6.0 that will not start. we have spent a fortune with different shops and still no luck. Any one know a reliable mechanic in our area?
Honestly I’m not sure, I’m in Canada
My truck does this but will start if we have a truck with cables on both batteries. And sometimes starting fluid it will start as well. Will this still apply to my truck? 2007 6.0 powerstroke 180k miles.
Yes
@bradgdiesel3243 are you in British Columbia? Having same issue on same truck and looking for someone to do the work. If in BC and interested, how could one get a hold of you? Thanks! Justin
Email me bradgormley@gmail.com