A truck came with a long crank when cold. Verified that it was due to low icp or maybe I should say long time for icp to build. This is my test procedure to find the cause and fix.
Great videos! I started at ford. Unfortunately didn't stay long. Went independent. Now I am seeing a ton of 6.0s and these videos helped my diags for sure. Thanks
Ron, thanks for all you do to help people. I did dummy plugs and still getting long crank, I will have to check the other plugs I suppose. The dummys were worn so I did not investigate any further. Thanks again
I’m at 235,000 on my 2005 king ranch 6.0. Im going to do the glow plugs, harness, dummy plug, the little one , the standpipe and the blue spring upgrade just to head off a big surprise repair.
The wear would be enough to be a no start hot if it was driven hard and shut off and restarted within a few minutes. It still should be the same diagnosis on early ones. Listen to the injector preclatter for sticking injectors and make sure it has oil staying in the filter. (Wrong cap)
Hey Ron, what causes the FICM to fail? i've heard vibrations and heat, and low voltage/power? what is the cause? if its heat and vibrations, why has no one made an extension harness to put the FICM in say, the glove box? just a thought.
Could you please tell me what software you use to diagnose the truck in this video? I have an intermittent cold, no start. First, a long crank with no start. Then let it sit for a minute and then it starts.
The extra seal you said to check, what's that called and do you have a part number for it. About to do this job and I'm damn certain I don't want to do it twice
based on what I've been watching, early 6.0 engines have power but problems, a lot of problems since the engines were relatively new and working out issues. I've also heard that 6.7+ don't have as many problems or has had a lot of the early model engine problems fixed. I recommend checking out the channel powerstrokehelp or hes get a site powerstrokehelp.com bill hewitt, he knows his powerstrokes.
I have an 03 with a very excessive long crank (15 seconds+) and a no start hot. Would anyone be able to lead me in the right direction. Also has a terrible stutter at 1800-2200 rpms and when in overdrive
+Todd Mcvicker There's a small sensor located on the passenger side firewall that is located in the blower box. It has two bolts and is pretty easy to get to. Pull it and look at it. If it looks burnt then replace and you're done.
If it’s a 4wd truck, the soloniod that operates the front axle in 4wd is probably leaking. This causes a loss of vacuum and most often causes the defrost vents to come on.
Do you happen to know the part number for the gasket on the small plug? I replaced Standpipes and dummy plugs as well as replaced the STC fitting with the upgrade and I am having this exact issue again. Thanks I appreciate the time you take making these videos.
+Ira Kinkead I found two part numbers but the Ford part doesn't seem to be available. The numbers I found are 3C349C064BA and NAV 1815887C1. the standard dimensions are -902 but I couldn't find a durometer spec.
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Add me to the list of thousands of people this man has helped and taught. STILL one of the best teachers on youtube!!
It sucks so bad that Ron is gone. His videos were/are great! Such an easy look into with his help. Sorry to the family for their loss.
Great video, very helpful. Hard to imagine a tech that's missed any more than this guy.
Many Blessings to you, Ron.
Great videos! I started at ford. Unfortunately didn't stay long. Went independent. Now I am seeing a ton of 6.0s and these videos helped my diags for sure. Thanks
Ron, thanks for all you do to help people. I did dummy plugs and still getting long crank, I will have to check the other plugs I suppose. The dummys were worn so I did not investigate any further. Thanks again
Thanks ron! Just found my leak on that small plug. RIP
Hey where did you buy the small plug at I cant find one
I’m at 235,000 on my 2005 king ranch 6.0. Im going to do the glow plugs, harness, dummy plug, the little one , the standpipe and the blue spring upgrade just to head off a big surprise repair.
This video was beyond helpful.. very good narrative, helped me out a ton!!! Thanks
This dude is great!! Lems truck repair in springfield, mo is the closest Ive found to this maN!
Nice work Rob
I am a mecanique to and you video are realy good info
Keep them going man
Nice video! Very informative. Made easy to follow using IDS for pids as I use same scanner.Thanks
We missed you
The wear would be enough to be a no start hot if it was driven hard and shut off and restarted within a few minutes. It still should be the same diagnosis on early ones. Listen to the injector preclatter for sticking injectors and make sure it has oil staying in the filter. (Wrong cap)
Hey Ron, what causes the FICM to fail? i've heard vibrations and heat, and low voltage/power? what is the cause? if its heat and vibrations, why has no one made an extension harness to put the FICM in say, the glove box? just a thought.
Munky332 with the size of the plugs for the FICM it would be really expensive to make a jumper harness, not many would care much there easy to remove
Hi there I have a new engine on my 04 ford f350 6.0L and I updated for a 06 I need to do a program and how I can or can't do it my self.
i would like to see a hard start cold on an early build 6.0, i have a hard time diagnosing those.
You sir are a badass!!
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to teach.
Should the oil drip out when you pull the icp? Or should it just be close to the threads in the oil rail?
god bless you ron.
Just need to say thanks . Your a big help.
Could you please tell me what software you use to diagnose the truck in this video? I have an intermittent cold, no start. First, a long crank with no start. Then let it sit for a minute and then it starts.
Ron, is this too small of a leak to cause long crank hot?
Ron, could you take a look at my cold start video and give me any thoughts on my issue. Thanks in advance
so I have long crank when cold with lots of white smoke diesel smell think its the same or glow plug issue thx
Another good video. Thanks
my 07 does this when it's hot or cold. could it be the same thing? or a hpop leak?
When you're finished with that job did you have to get the air out of the ICP sensor ( bleed the air out of ICP sensor) ?
Ron isn't with us anymore. He passed away back in 2016. Rip Ron thanks for all the help
thank you
The extra seal you said to check, what's that called and do you have a part number for it. About to do this job and I'm damn certain I don't want to do it twice
Sorry to inform you but Ron isn't with us anymore. He passed away back in 2016
@@Chuckingrocks36 I'm sorry to hear that.
Thank u thank u thank u
Ron, do you recommend staying away from 2004 model 6.0 engines?
based on what I've been watching, early 6.0 engines have power but problems, a lot of problems since the engines were relatively new and working out issues. I've also heard that 6.7+ don't have as many problems or has had a lot of the early model engine problems fixed. I recommend checking out the channel powerstrokehelp or hes get a site powerstrokehelp.com bill hewitt, he knows his powerstrokes.
I have an 03 with a very excessive long crank (15 seconds+) and a no start hot. Would anyone be able to lead me in the right direction. Also has a terrible stutter at 1800-2200 rpms and when in overdrive
Sounds like Injectors or seals
I have a 04 f350 4 door dually that gets stuck on defrost can any one tell me how to check and fix this problem??
+Todd Mcvicker There's a small sensor located on the passenger side firewall that is located in the blower box. It has two bolts and is pretty easy to get to. Pull it and look at it. If it looks burnt then replace and you're done.
If it’s a 4wd truck, the soloniod that operates the front axle in 4wd is probably leaking. This causes a loss of vacuum and most often causes the defrost vents to come on.
Vacuum leak
how did he pass away?
Car accident there’s a video by his so. Explaining if you click Ron’s page
the Problem is that if you already had that sensor off why not replace it with a new one.
Because it doesn’t need replacement and that sensor is sitting on the top of the engine waiting for you to replace it anytime without effort
Do you happen to know the part number for the gasket on the small plug? I replaced Standpipes and dummy plugs as well as replaced the STC fitting with the upgrade and I am having this exact issue again. Thanks I appreciate the time you take making these videos.
+Ira Kinkead I found two part numbers but the Ford part doesn't seem to be available. The numbers I found are 3C349C064BA and NAV 1815887C1. the standard dimensions are -902 but I couldn't find a durometer spec.
did you fix the issue
👍👏🙏🏻