Hi Pat, thanks for making this video. I’ve changed my NSX oil 3 times so far, and also notice the blub-blub on some of the oil drains. The dry-sump oil pump has 5 scavenge sections. The front most bolt drains the “chain box” section which is well vented, so no blub-blub. One of the bottom bolts drains the turbo charger(s) oil drain, which is its own scavenge section. I don’t remember if it blubs or not. Of course the tank is no blub because you first removed the oil fill cap. The Bolt on the front of the oil pump drains the oil supply hose from the tank to the pressure side of the pump, so no blub. The 3 remaining bolts drain the 3 crank case sections. These sections are completely sealed from each other, so they are basically air tight. One section is the oil return for just one pair of cylinders, and it’s completely sealed from the other pairs of cylinders. Because of how these crank sections are sealed, there’s a lot of blub-blub. This is a good thing. The NSX engine is really a race car engine that’s dialed back for the street. This is the way a properly designed dry sump system works for racing. Enjoy!
Thanks so much for the detailed response. I hadn't spent enough time in the manuals to understand it all before creating the video. You've clearly filled in the blanks! I'll update the description with this information thanks to you!
I would love to see someone mod a NSX and just straight up remove all power unit’s the low energy density hybrid battery tech from the car. No MGUK, no MGUH, battery coolers, electric motors all gone.
Thanks Pat. I will be going through this myself as well. Right now oil life is at 60% so I have a ways to go. It still has a very light Color to it. I really don’t believe in changing too early as this oil is long life specific and the factory uses the same brand. Service manual info. Where do I get that? Thanks again.
I agree, may as well wait until the oil is closer to the end of life. I got access to the service manual via the Honda website, which is subscription based. I puchased a month of access and downloaded a bunch of service info to PDF. techinfo.honda.com
Very well done walk-through. They didn't make it easy though did they? Couple of questions: Is that undertray some kind of fibrous material? Any chance those plastic scoops would un-bolt and come off with the undertray vs having to pry on stuff? Lastly do they specify a single universal oil weight like the 1st gen cars, or do they have separate weight specifications for normal use and 'heavy duty' (i.e. track) use?
Thank you! Yes, this isn't easy. I spent 9 hours doing the oil change due to recording, breaks, etc. The undertray is fibrous but semi-rigid so it flexes easily. If I removed the longitudinal metal piece toward the front of the car, I could likely slide the underbody panel towards the front of the car to get it past the scoops. It just looked like the previous oil changes had been done with prying so I did the same. 0w40 is still recommended for all seasons and duties, so no need to change the weight for a particular temperature or purpose.
@@PatsGarageOnline He he, yeah filming anything means it'll take at least 3x as long. Definitely sounds like one should budget at least a half day at least the first time.
Hey Pat. I had to brew a whole new fresh pot of my Chock full O'nuts for this video! You know, I don't do that for everybody. I sure hope Santa brings me a new supply. Subscribing to your channel is costing me a fortune! 😉 So, since I only have ten fingers and I lost count. How many drain plugs AND miscellaneous bolts did you have to remove to perform this chore? Remember the old days. Miss your Vettes much and changing their oil? 🤣 Lastly, what does the dealer get to this oil change? Save the Wave👋
I'm always happy to provide quality content and appreciate your response, PC! I think there were 20 bolts holding the underbody panel, 7 drain plugs under the car. 8 clips and 4 more bolts were removed to get to the oil filter. Quite an ordeal and dealers charge between $400 and $600 depending on the labor rate in different parts of the country. So much easier with Corvette, no doubt. But, for some reason, I keep choosing highly complicated cars to enjoy and maintain. Part of me enjoys the challenge. But, it took me 9 hours to do the oil change, which required a lot of double checking due to it being a first-time job, a bunch of breaks/snacks and all the recording. I'm not sure the next change will require as much time.
You're a master of the understatement Pat. "Quite an ordeal." 😉 For most of us this oil change would be a career!🤣 But the NSX does suit you and it's probably the only mid-engine that I'd want after the C8. The dealer cost for the oil change is understandable when you equate the labor cost to doing it. So you took nine hours which is understandable because it's YOU doing it. While watching you having to slip a pipe over the handle of you ratchet to loosen up the bolts, my thought was, "yeah, last time at the dealer the mechanic just didn't know what he was doing, and those bolts were over-torqued." Now YOU KNOW it's been done correctly. But going back to labor cost, even if you reduce your time down to 4 hours and giving you a low hourly rate of $150.00/hr., that's $600. without the cost of oil and filter. Keep ride'n and smile'n Pat and as always, Save the Wave👋
Be sure to follow my Instagram for more photos like my click bait thumbnail 🤣 instagram.com/patsgarageonline/
Hi Pat, thanks for making this video. I’ve changed my NSX oil 3 times so far, and also notice the blub-blub on some of the oil drains. The dry-sump oil pump has 5 scavenge sections. The front most bolt drains the “chain box” section which is well vented, so no blub-blub. One of the bottom bolts drains the turbo charger(s) oil drain, which is its own scavenge section. I don’t remember if it blubs or not. Of course the tank is no blub because you first removed the oil fill cap. The Bolt on the front of the oil pump drains the oil supply hose from the tank to the pressure side of the pump, so no blub. The 3 remaining bolts drain the 3 crank case sections. These sections are completely sealed from each other, so they are basically air tight. One section is the oil return for just one pair of cylinders, and it’s completely sealed from the other pairs of cylinders. Because of how these crank sections are sealed, there’s a lot of blub-blub. This is a good thing. The NSX engine is really a race car engine that’s dialed back for the street. This is the way a properly designed dry sump system works for racing. Enjoy!
Thanks so much for the detailed response. I hadn't spent enough time in the manuals to understand it all before creating the video. You've clearly filled in the blanks! I'll update the description with this information thanks to you!
That was pretty crazy. I was not expecting that much oil to come out of the other drain plugs after the main one. Also... 7 drain plugs?! 🤯
Me neither! A complete surprise but well explained by Eric Crowder in the comments.
That was fascinating! I commend you for taking on this, what seems to be an impossible, job for an end user. Good work...
The sound, transitions and over all editing is on point bud! Excellent review and content. Keep it coming 👊👍.We love the cat as well Lol.
Great video and detail. I will use this in the future (probably 2023) b/c my Type S wont be here till August 2022.
I'm shocked Acura engineer's couldn't have come up with a more simple oil drainage design.
I've learned that it's a Cosworth engine.
@@PatsGarageOnline I'm guessing it's a dry sump system.
You make this look easy ! Maybe one day 😉👍
I would love to see someone mod a NSX and just straight up remove all power unit’s the low energy density hybrid battery tech from the car. No MGUK, no MGUH, battery coolers, electric motors all gone.
Popcorn ready!
Thanks Pat. I will be going through this myself as well. Right now oil life is at 60% so I have a ways to go. It still has a very light Color to it.
I really don’t believe in changing too early as this oil is long life specific and the factory uses the same brand.
Service manual info. Where do I get that?
Thanks again.
I agree, may as well wait until the oil is closer to the end of life. I got access to the service manual via the Honda website, which is subscription based. I puchased a month of access and downloaded a bunch of service info to PDF. techinfo.honda.com
Good job!
Very precise
Goo video
I subscribed!
Awesome video!! I’m a new subscriber!!
Thanks for subbing!
Very well done walk-through. They didn't make it easy though did they? Couple of questions: Is that undertray some kind of fibrous material? Any chance those plastic scoops would un-bolt and come off with the undertray vs having to pry on stuff? Lastly do they specify a single universal oil weight like the 1st gen cars, or do they have separate weight specifications for normal use and 'heavy duty' (i.e. track) use?
Thank you! Yes, this isn't easy. I spent 9 hours doing the oil change due to recording, breaks, etc. The undertray is fibrous but semi-rigid so it flexes easily. If I removed the longitudinal metal piece toward the front of the car, I could likely slide the underbody panel towards the front of the car to get it past the scoops. It just looked like the previous oil changes had been done with prying so I did the same. 0w40 is still recommended for all seasons and duties, so no need to change the weight for a particular temperature or purpose.
@@PatsGarageOnline He he, yeah filming anything means it'll take at least 3x as long. Definitely sounds like one should budget at least a half day at least the first time.
thankx,awesome video
What if you over fill oil halve a quart
Hey Pat. I had to brew a whole new fresh pot of my Chock full O'nuts for this video! You know, I don't do that for everybody. I sure hope Santa brings me a new supply. Subscribing to your channel is costing me a fortune! 😉 So, since I only have ten fingers and I lost count. How many drain plugs AND miscellaneous bolts did you have to remove to perform this chore? Remember the old days. Miss your Vettes much and changing their oil? 🤣 Lastly, what does the dealer get to this oil change? Save the Wave👋
I'm always happy to provide quality content and appreciate your response, PC! I think there were 20 bolts holding the underbody panel, 7 drain plugs under the car. 8 clips and 4 more bolts were removed to get to the oil filter. Quite an ordeal and dealers charge between $400 and $600 depending on the labor rate in different parts of the country. So much easier with Corvette, no doubt. But, for some reason, I keep choosing highly complicated cars to enjoy and maintain. Part of me enjoys the challenge. But, it took me 9 hours to do the oil change, which required a lot of double checking due to it being a first-time job, a bunch of breaks/snacks and all the recording. I'm not sure the next change will require as much time.
You're a master of the understatement Pat. "Quite an ordeal." 😉 For most of us this oil change would be a career!🤣 But the NSX does suit you and it's probably the only mid-engine that I'd want after the C8. The dealer cost for the oil change is understandable when you equate the labor cost to doing it. So you took nine hours which is understandable because it's YOU doing it. While watching you having to slip a pipe over the handle of you ratchet to loosen up the bolts, my thought was, "yeah, last time at the dealer the mechanic just didn't know what he was doing, and those bolts were over-torqued." Now YOU KNOW it's been done correctly. But going back to labor cost, even if you reduce your time down to 4 hours and giving you a low hourly rate of $150.00/hr., that's $600. without the cost of oil and filter.
Keep ride'n and smile'n Pat and as always, Save the Wave👋
30 lbs is a lot of feet.
Oh... shameless clickbait :)