He's got an SPTools sticker on his toolbox, an SPtools banner on the wall behind him, and a SPtools discount code in the description. Of course, the SP unit is going to be the only one that works. Don't really care if he's trying to make it look legit. Funny thing is I've watched a dozen videos reviews on the NOCO GB150 and ALL have started diesel engines. This is the only one that didn't. In fact, one was mid 90's 7.3 Ford, probably one of the worst at cold starting.
SP all day long is $325.00. Genius Boost is a lot cheaper. For the budget GB70 is the way to go. I used my GB70 quite often as tech. I used it on 6.7 Dodge and the Duramax. It has worked every time for 8 years straight with no problem.
Dude something is wrong with yours I’ve seen mine start a rollback with a 6.7 l Cummins with no batteries hahaha that means 0.00 volts you must be getting paid noco is the shi* had a gb 150
Thanks for the video, I appreciate the time you invested. I believe every ounce of what I just witnessed here, seeing is believing, right? So just ignore all of the know nothing useless keyboard warriors below. Ya can't fix stupid, but ya can make stupid 'silent' on your channel! @ 19:56 the more amp/watt hours, the more available power over time. It has nothing to do with speed, but rather sustain of X amount of power over X amount of time. Cheers man🍻
the GB70 didn't bump any voltage since not boosted, GB 150 bumped from 7.X to 10.X V about 3 V, then you use the SP to bump it to 14+which is a healthy voltage to start a truck. If you need to do a non-biest comparison should drain the battery again and start from 7 voltage again.
The answer to your question: How can that thing put out 4000 amps? It's about power over time. It might peak at 4k amps for just a few milliseconds, but won't sustain it for any usable amount of time. Just like the inrush current of a hand held circular saw can draw about 20 amps every time you pull the trigger, so why doesn't it trip the breaker of a 15 amp circuit? Because it's only high current draw for a few milliseconds before leveling off at half it's starting current draw. A motor is almost a dead short until it begins to spin, and it only takes milliseconds worth of huge power to get them spinning. Cheers 🍻
I own a roadside assistance company and I’m telling you all the Gb150 will start that damn truck without issue if you know how to use it. You must use the override button to get max power out of it. I just started a dead duramax 2500 first crank less than an hour ago. I was just looking at videos of the gb500 and this one popped up. But the Gb series works great period
Ok so I’ve talked to now two GB reps and the answer on the over ride button is NO using the over ride button DOES NOT boost power in any way shape or form! It only bypasses the polarity safety that is active when there is less than 3 volts. They said it is possible that I have a bad/weak jump pack but it was used correctly. This is also not a stock Duramax engine either.
The GB150 is a freaking magic box! My elderly senile father kept buying used junkers from people over the years, stocking more than he sold. He had about 25 cars, several not started in years. I was able to crank a majority of them. If the battery is completed dead you have to use the 5 min Genius Boost (which takes 5 minutes to complete) to bring it up before jumping. Now when jumping with it after your connection and turn unit on you wait while the light flashes from far left (red) to the far right led (green) which can take one to five minutes, and while the green led is flashing that's when you start the vehicle. With all the positive things I've said I will admit I had one bad experience. Using it on my vehicle that was just a little over a year old with the Genius Boost over ride it killed my computer. I should have disconnected battery all the way from the car then do it (that's why there is a red lighting bolt warning on the button). But in the end it looks like you didn't follow the Genius manual.
Thank you for disproving this guy. Now, I'm just a backyard mechanic, nothing special. I'm also a paralyzed Disabled Veteran and really can't do mechanics work anymore. Before I buy anything, I really try to do my research. I watched 5 videos showing how good the NOCO is. If NOCO doesn't work then you're doing it wrong. Why isn't this guy not connecting any of these straight to the battery like most people. I have never in my life seen a vehicle jumped the way this guy has done it. Thank you for showing explaining the truth.
Connection is very important. When I can, I prefer to go straight off the battery. That ground that your using, I find I need to hold the clamps tighter to get some boxes to jump vehicles
Yeah, with a booster charger, where you don’t turn it on till it’s connected, and turn it off before disconnecting, there isn’t even any risk of sparks. Direct to the battery is the way to go with these.
I have Audi A8 D3 with a 4.2 TDI engine, 326 HP. Recently my battery died, but due to the fact that I suspected problems with the electrics, instead of replacing the battery, I decided to buy NOCO 70. The car started without any problems, with 3V on the battery and the ambient temperature around +1/-1 C. Sorry for my English but I recommend the device .
Who the hell told you that button was a "boost" button? Haha. That is the override button. You only use that button (the Override Button) when the pack doesn't detect a battery, which is anything under 2 volts. If battery reads anything more than 2 volts, then that button is not needed. My GB150 started my old 7.3L diesel first go in consecutive -2 degree mornings after months of inactivity. Either the GB150 is faulty or you are doing something wrong.
i can see how these jump packs are ok for like a tool to keep in your vehicle in case you have a dead battery. HOWEVER, as a tech what i use is a "good" used battery and attach some cables to it , the battery is one of those that have a built in handle strap. its rated for 650 CCA. In most cases about 90% it works just fine to jump any vehicle I need to. If it wont jump it I just change the battery on the lot. The battery was free. used some old jumper cables , cut one end of the clamps off and used generic battery terminals to attach it to the battery so its all contained on the battery. I just recharge it when needed.
The GB 70 gave engine 9 volts, that can't crank it can it? The GB 150 provided 10 volts, not enough? SP one provided 13.5. Isn't the minimum to start at least 12 volts? Noco's didn't seem to provide voltage needed.
Weird the sponsored unit worked so much better than the units that put out more power when used correctly. Project farm is a superior channel and noco is a superior product.
You could have given the first one a few seconds to at least reach 12.5 volts!! It was only at 10.5 when you started cranking !! But the sp instantaneous 14 volts was impressive
@Michael B why do the gb units say to leave them hooked up for 30sec before cranking then? Legit question, I’m Just getting into these packs and trying to figure them out.
I guess you did not read the owners manual before doing this test. I believe every owners manual says to hook the booster to the battery. Maybe that is why it failed.
Project Farm (NOT sponsored, buys all tested products) has done 2 comparisons of jump boxes. Auto Auction Rebuilds has used the higher capacity Noco on his Co Part walk arounds, and has no issue starting ANY diesel pickup, along with starting 15-20 vehicles...
Most of the time they go bad from not being used. It’s better for them to be used here and there. I’ve had some last 5 years and still put out 75% ish of what they did new. Most of the noco’s I’ve had last about two years. Idk if that’s just bad luck or what🤷♂️
From watching other real-world tests on these boosters, it seems guys are turning them on, giving them a minute or so, and then holding the little exclamation mark button to bypass the safeties. Seems to work, maybe worth a try. Take care!
Great video and nice job showing all the connections close up. I have 2 of these jump starters (avapow 3000a and Fanttik 2000a) , and neither one will work on a battery that is below 50%, which is around 12.4 volts. So when some of these people say that their battery was stone cold dead, it was not. It still had at least 12 volts or close to it. The SP really works great, but the price tag is just too high.....I still carry jumper cables just in case all else fails
I have both the gb150 and the SP (well my "sp" is branded by the original manufacturer starkpower jumpbox fleetpro 1500w) I have been wanting to buy another but couldn't find it or anything like it since company went under till just the other day when I found the sp tools one but basically case and spec are exactly the same. As for gb150 both it's and the SP would jump a 7.3 powerstroke from what I see from the video he did not use the gb150 correctly the two box although performing similar function do it completely different the gb150 for lack of better explanation basic transfers it's charge to the truck battery so it need at least 30sec in completely dead situation sometimes longer but u hook it up and turn it on and it will continue to do its thing the CP is a basically an extreme booster its gonna be like switching ur charger to the boosted start engine setting that instructs u to not run it more than 30sec if vehicle doesn't start which the SP is the same way one it finds its polarity u have 15-30 sec to turn the key and start the vehicle before it times out and shuts off. In my experience with both of them they both have there times that are useful if you have vehicle that normal doesn't crank fast but cranks long to start then the gb150 is probably the way to go if u have a vehicle that likes fast short cranking then the SP would be the better option I've had situation where the SP wouldn't work cause it wouldn't allow me to crank long enough to where the GB150 did and vise a versa the gb150 wouldn't crank one vehicle fast enough when the SP would just my 2cents and experience working in a on-highway CAT dealership as a journeyman for 10years
Here is the problem when you post a video not using a tool to its potential remove the video replace it with a video that makes it look like you are manipulating the outcome and you lose all credibility.
I believe the noco can't tell a draw is being applied to the battery when its on the jump posts I would like to see if it hooked directly to the the battery it would make a difference !? maybe not, but would definitely rid of any Skepticism!
@@windsbra12 - Yeah, I’ve seen the GB70 jump start an old Cummins! The GB150 has started class 5 trucks. There are videos all over TH-cam of that happening!
I use my GB70 all the time to start the Cummins in the Motorhome or the tow rig. Straight to the battery and no heater grid on the tow rig in 30* weather without a hiccup
They are following what the Chinese do when it comes to advertised specs. The GB150 is rated for 4000amps which is absurd. But they cleverly use the word "peak" output. So for maybe 50 milliseconds it peaked at 4000A, but that number is useless in the real world. They need to be made to rate their output in something realistic and useful like continuous (or average) numbers.
Want to know it’s not accurate? When you hold the boost button down to get manual mode it shows the voltage at 10volts. You’re not getting a good connection or the pack isn’t charged fully. Hook the gb150 directly to battery.
Also funny that you noted it jumped the truck with only One battery. It doesn't matter if you have 2, 1, or no batteries at all once the pack is connected. Try it... With any vehicle, disconnect the battery, clap the jump pack directly to the terminal ends of the battery cables, hit that manual override button that you thought was the extra turbo boost (obviously, because it won't automatically detect a battery when there's not one) and jump your car/truck/bike/boat/etc. ✌
@ 1:43. It's a "Joule" thing in terms of the marketing claims on (peak) current output. (1 Joule = 1 Watt * 1 Second). The Amp unit is buried in the Watt unit. Thanks for the side-by-side comparison.
Excellent! You demystified the issue. Thanks. Question. what do you think about the FORTEM Digital Tire Inflator for Car. I was thinking about getting it for my wife's vehicle.
good video, but something seems wrong with the first 2 packs. they aren't showing 12v when hooked up, let alone 13v. of course they wont start the truck - they wouldn't even start a motorcycle. lol
Jump to 11:37 in the video. The SP tools jump pack has boosted the truck battery voltage to 14.87 volts before the engine is started and with a discharged truck battery load. I suspect the SP tools jump pack has more battery cells in series to increase the output voltage. Can the SP tools jump pack be safely use as a battery (voltage) maintainer while programming modules for up to an hour?
The red ! Button is not a boost button it’s a manual override because the gb does bot detect a battery if it’s under 2v that button is only so you can jump start a car/truck battery that under 2v
Just at your voltmeter you can tell that 2nd test will not start it because it's showing under 12v on voltmeter and 3rd test with SP unit will start it because it's showing more than 13v so I already knew just by looking at voltmeter which one was going to start it and which one was not 🤗
I have NOCO GB70 and NOCO GB150 if your battery is down it will start it up but if your battery is flat 🪫 it doesn’t work i have 3.0L Diesel Toyota Hilux and 2.1L Diesel Mercedes Sprinter I am also disappointed with NOCO brand. Spend lot of money and outcome is worthless.
Coming from a tech that gets cars from the tow lot with stone dead batteries. The only test is with any to all batteries removed from the car (except high voltage hybrid batteries). My go to jumper is the jump and carry 770r (JNC 770R). What I have seen is that some vehicle charging systems are slow to start charging. My experience has been that the small jumpers shut down after jump starting causing the engine to shut down right after it started. In other words, will the jumper maintain a voltage after the jump start. Maybe disconnect the alternator also to see if with just the jumper box in the electrical system, will the vehicle crank and stay running without output from an alternator? Great video and that SP tools is a great contender.
Great points! I see those JNC770R’s and say to myself, nah I don’t really need that....and then I get a stone dead 6.0 Ford in the middle of winter. Then immediately kick myself in the butt lol
With good cables and connections it makes no difference at all. Plus all the packs were hooked up in the same way at the same place for testing control.
also i know its not in overboost as when you hold down the I for two seconds the status lights move rapidly in sequence, and it wasn't so maybe user error on this one
In my experience the Noco doesn't put out power as quickly as other units and you need to wait a minute after hooking it up to let it boost the battery.
That one is only 2-3 months old and another unit that is exactly the same we have at our shop performs the exact same. If anyone gets a new one and is able to get different results, I’d like to see it.
Rustbelt Mechanic I was just talking to a tow truck driver this week as he was dropping off a car. He said they have been using the gb 40 for two years with great results. Btw good video. I like the camera angle better than the last one.
Where is the link to the jump packs down in the description below I don’t see him anywhere.. Pretty much they’re always at the top and in blue so you can click on them and go straight there. I loved your analysis of the units. And I appreciate that you Included the price. Thank you for the video.
Here’s the link to the SP pack, it’s out of stock though probably until the end of January... sptoolsusa.com/products/sp61073-hd-diesel-1600a-jump-starter?_pos=3&_sid=3abaec15b&_ss=r
Just bought a GB70 and i'm sending it back. It only puts out 12v even after charging it with a bench power supply. If you have a relatively dumb car it does work, it started my 5.7 chevy with a battery at 8v - it delivered 200 amps during cranking so it does work to an extent. But it refused to start my L322 Range rover because the car needs more than 12v to even attempt to crank and this pack doesn't put out more than 12v and therefore doesn't deliver any 'boost' into the battery. So if you have a relatively dumb car that will start on sub 12v then it will work, but some more modern cars wont allow the engine to crank on 12v (which is actually considered at 50% battery level)
My Noco GB70 is a complete fail, because of a very serious design flaw. I tried to use mine at -24C and it just flashed error. Close reading of the instructions say its designed to shut down in temps colder that -20C. WTF? That's the one time I really needed it. BTW -20 is completely normal for the winter here in Canada.
These booster packs are designed differently. Noco takes alil bit to put the power in where the SP puts out Alot of it's power at first but only for a few seconds. I have several booster backs and one of the cheaper ones I bought off of Amazon is a Gooloo and it works like that SP tools it puts out a ton of power right off of the bat but within a few short seconds cuts off. I have started 10 vehicles in a row with it no problem but if you need to leave the vehicle running a minute with it on, it is not jump pack you want.
This is joke. I have a tiny 1000a peak booster. Starts anything from dead flat. You have to have a fully charged booster pack. 95% to 100% is a huge drop in charge for these booster pack
I emailed Noco, this is what they told Me. Chris G (NOCO) Jan 4, 2021, 10:14 MST R, Thanks for contacting NOCO Support. The GB150 4000A has been replaced with the 3000A version. We revised our rating due to a change in the testing standards developed in a partnership with UL. However, the new 3000A GB150 is significantly more powerful than any previous versions. As resellers refresh their inventory, all that will be available is the 3000A version. I do apologize for the inconvenience. Please let us know if you have any additional questions. Regards, Chris G NOCO Support Specialist
Has anyone else noticed he never showed what the voltage was on the gb150 ?? I have one and start my f-350 no problem with dead batteries on truck multiple times. My batteries didn't hold charge so I had to jump it everytime.
The number stated on the unit is referring to the peak total power. Geepers!! if you had the like of 2000 amps going to your starter POOF! it would be fried. The starter would only take no more than what the master main fuse is rated for if even at that at least half to turn over a engine.
Rating is based on Temperatures... You're not going to get the full rating. If you're no where near that... And these have two functions. The battery has to be above 2-3 volts. To work. If not. You have to hit the override button..To get the battery above that voltage. Then the NOCO will work.. It's a safety feature. to keep you from blowing your battery up..
I agree 100 per cent noco is crap I had 2 and both were shit one melted the other wouldn't charge never again 'I'm gonna try gooloo 4000 I'm really impressed with the torque amps it spun the engine really fast and kept on going '''it would blow noco into the weeds 'not in the same league
Bought NOCO 4250 amp off Amazon, not impressed by its capacity..Expected more,50 percent capacity loss after jumping one small car. Maybe mine is faulty?
I really appreciate this video, I was going to buy the noco GB150 cuz I have the GB40 and it won't jump start any of the Audi's i work on now. It worked fine for small engines that have the batteries right next to it but most audi have jump posts on the engine bay and the battery is usually in the trunk or in other harder areas to reach. So good to know I didn't throw my money away. Thanks
This WOULD HAVE WORKED if he would’ve hooked it up straight to the battery instead of those stupid remote jump posts. You would NOT have wasted your money.
You wouldn't have wasted your money. The dude used the jumper packs incorrectly. Reading the manual shows you're supposed to leave it hooked up for a minute until it charges it to a good voltage basically. You can hold the power button (I believe. I could be wrong) and that will put it into manual override, and allow you to basically use it as a jumper pack straight away. This dude was basically using the noco gb packs as a jump starter straight away while it was in the battery charging mode.
I read this from someone's comment on how he was using the GB jumper packs wrong, which was a big reason it didn't jump off his vehicle straight away like he was hoping, so take that knowledge how you will.
The rating is more likely the manufacturer just selling a product because there's really no rating system they have to follow as far as I know. It's the same in the lighting industry. You can just say whatever you want. Kinda lame so shop smart and check the reviews like this one. Just an FYI, I would've hooked then all up direct to the battery. The big GB150 might have started the diesel that way.
Man!! So many reviews on jump staters that make us really confused 🤷♂️! I just need a jump starter for my TJ 1997 so I can be cool when I’m camping 🏕! But I don’t really want to pay $$$$247.00 for a jumper! So I’m going to stick with something around $$$100.00! If anyone out there has a suggestion I’ll appreciate! Anyways thanks for the video!
Audew Upgraded Car Jump Starters, Jump Box 2000A Peak 20000mAh B... $64.21 Prime day sale, I bought it when it was $100 bucks and jump starts everything I put it on so far.
You killed the genius boosters before you took the video. The voltage of both should have gone above 12V. Showing us the light is stating that the booster is full but what is its voltage before you connect to the vehicle.
It is amazing that people DO not care about SOS or the light. They should. If you have ever been out away from city lights, it gets DARRRK! A little light goes a long ways in those conditions. AND...guess who knows what SOS sequence is? Emergency response and rescue units! Drive off the side of the road, put this on top of the vehicle, maybe cover it with a light bag and make it a lantern/beacon.
One year later are you still positive on the SP unit? I have a 5 year old GB40 that has ran out of horse power and I am going to replace it with something that has more muscle. Thanks
Great test, thanks for sharing. The difference of Lithium batteries has a lot to do with the grade or quality of graphite that they bind to the lithium cells, and also the quality of the binder. SP-Tools is obviously using a premium graphite and binder to adhere to the lithium cell. Companies are now adding SiNanode process to the graphite to increase the power, life, and speed of the charge. TESLA is leading the way but companies such as GM are charging forward and catching up. All-in-all what is added to the Lithium is what creates a superior battery.
You cannot believe these videos because the user is clueless about the products. Granted, the GB products have highly inflated specs, but so does every other product. What this guy should know is that if you just turn on the GB70/GB150 it goes into the default mode which just attempts to charge the car battery that is not completely depleted. In this mode it does not supply enough cranking amps to turn the starter on its own. It’s relying on the car battery in conjunction to do do. The GB70/GB150 has an override mode which you have to press the ‘!’ button until all the lights start blinking like crazy. This mode bypasses the car battery altogether and attempts to supply all the current necessary to crank the starter. This is explained in the manual, which I’m sure this guy is too manly to read. In this video, he did not put either the GB70 or the GB150 in the override mode. He needs to press ‘!’ button AFTER the power level lights become steady after turning on the units. He was pressing it on the GB150 while those lights were still cycling, meaning the unit is still trying to sense polarity and other stuff, and never got into the override mode, which would have been indicated by all the lights pulsing at the same time. It’s actually NOCO to blame for user errors like these because the default mode is not how most people use these booster packs. The override mode is how most people want or expect these things to work. It should be the default or only mode. I have the GB70 myself and have no problems with it starting big trucks. But if I were to buy now I would choose another brand/unit not because the GBs don’t work. It’s because I can find much better value elsewhere.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
He's got an SPTools sticker on his toolbox, an SPtools banner on the wall behind him, and a SPtools discount code in the description. Of course, the SP unit is going to be the only one that works. Don't really care if he's trying to make it look legit. Funny thing is I've watched a dozen videos reviews on the NOCO GB150 and ALL have started diesel engines. This is the only one that didn't. In fact, one was mid 90's 7.3 Ford, probably one of the worst at cold starting.
Yea I was shouting at my tv when the gb70 he pretty much turned it on and ran to the Ignition switch not giving it a second.
Amazing how the SP performed so well compared to the others. Must be the SP sponsorship working its magic
That's exactly right what he is "testing" is actually the paid promotion of SP
SP all day long is $325.00. Genius Boost is a lot cheaper. For the budget GB70 is the way to go. I used my GB70 quite often as tech. I used it on 6.7 Dodge and the Duramax. It has worked every time for 8 years straight with no problem.
How long will it hold a charge? What is the longest it has gone unused by you and still performed when you needed.
You have to press the manual boost button for three second (the lights will flash) and let go. Really helps to know what you are doing. Same with GB70
I've used a gb150 to jump a 9860 combine doing something wrong
(Sigh) It's not a boost button. Per the manual it is called the "Manual Override Button." It helps if you know what you are talking about.
@@urntwrthyZ then you should know that what it does it provide boost since you are obviously so smart lol.
I’ve used the GB 150 to jump my semi when it was stone cold dead. Worked every time.
Really? So that 150 is way togo?
@@bryansmith94 so im confused why didn't it start this truck
@@brianbrown4303 it almost did, the bolt almost hit 11 volts. I’d stick to the SP tools , why anyone would buy the other two I have no clue
The semi wasn’t stone cold dead.... it must have had at least 8 -9 volts
Dude something is wrong with yours I’ve seen mine start a rollback with a 6.7 l Cummins with no batteries hahaha that means 0.00 volts you must be getting paid noco is the shi* had a gb 150
Thanks for the video, I appreciate the time you invested. I believe every ounce of what I just witnessed here, seeing is believing, right? So just ignore all of the know nothing useless keyboard warriors below. Ya can't fix stupid, but ya can make stupid 'silent' on your channel! @ 19:56 the more amp/watt hours, the more available power over time. It has nothing to do with speed, but rather sustain of X amount of power over X amount of time. Cheers man🍻
the GB70 didn't bump any voltage since not boosted, GB 150 bumped from 7.X to 10.X V about 3 V, then you use the SP to bump it to 14+which is a healthy voltage to start a truck. If you need to do a non-biest comparison should drain the battery again and start from 7 voltage again.
The answer to your question: How can that thing put out 4000 amps? It's about power over time. It might peak at 4k amps for just a few milliseconds, but won't sustain it for any usable amount of time. Just like the inrush current of a hand held circular saw can draw about 20 amps every time you pull the trigger, so why doesn't it trip the breaker of a 15 amp circuit? Because it's only high current draw for a few milliseconds before leveling off at half it's starting current draw. A motor is almost a dead short until it begins to spin, and it only takes milliseconds worth of huge power to get them spinning. Cheers 🍻
I own a roadside assistance company and I’m telling you all the Gb150 will start that damn truck without issue if you know how to use it. You must use the override button to get max power out of it. I just started a dead duramax 2500 first crank less than an hour ago. I was just looking at videos of the gb500 and this one popped up. But the Gb series works great period
Ok so I’ve talked to now two GB reps and the answer on the over ride button is NO using the over ride button DOES NOT boost power in any way shape or form! It only bypasses the polarity safety that is active when there is less than 3 volts. They said it is possible that I have a bad/weak jump pack but it was used correctly. This is also not a stock Duramax engine either.
LOL, you don't get any additional power by using the bypass function...that's not what it's for.
The GB150 is a freaking magic box! My elderly senile father kept buying used junkers from people over the years, stocking more than he sold. He had about 25 cars, several not started in years. I was able to crank a majority of them. If the battery is completed dead you have to use the 5 min Genius Boost (which takes 5 minutes to complete) to bring it up before jumping. Now when jumping with it after your connection and turn unit on you wait while the light flashes from far left (red) to the far right led (green) which can take one to five minutes, and while the green led is flashing that's when you start the vehicle. With all the positive things I've said I will admit I had one bad experience. Using it on my vehicle that was just a little over a year old with the Genius Boost over ride it killed my computer. I should have disconnected battery all the way from the car then do it (that's why there is a red lighting bolt warning on the button). But in the end it looks like you didn't follow the Genius manual.
Thank you for disproving this guy. Now, I'm just a backyard mechanic, nothing special. I'm also a paralyzed Disabled Veteran and really can't do mechanics work anymore. Before I buy anything, I really try to do my research. I watched 5 videos showing how good the NOCO is. If NOCO doesn't work then you're doing it wrong. Why isn't this guy not connecting any of these straight to the battery like most people. I have never in my life seen a vehicle jumped the way this guy has done it. Thank you for showing explaining the truth.
Connection is very important. When I can, I prefer to go straight off the battery. That ground that your using, I find I need to hold the clamps tighter to get some boxes to jump vehicles
Yeah, with a booster charger, where you don’t turn it on till it’s connected, and turn it off before disconnecting, there isn’t even any risk of sparks. Direct to the battery is the way to go with these.
I have Audi A8 D3 with a 4.2 TDI engine, 326 HP. Recently my battery died, but due to the fact that I suspected problems with the electrics, instead of replacing the battery, I decided to buy NOCO 70. The car started without any problems, with 3V on the battery and the ambient temperature around +1/-1 C. Sorry for my English but I recommend the device .
You support holding the information button until the light comes on
The GB150 is standard issue tool for every truck in my buddies tow fleet.
Who the hell told you that button was a "boost" button? Haha. That is the override button. You only use that button (the Override Button) when the pack doesn't detect a battery, which is anything under 2 volts. If battery reads anything more than 2 volts, then that button is not needed.
My GB150 started my old 7.3L diesel first go in consecutive -2 degree mornings after months of inactivity. Either the GB150 is faulty or you are doing something wrong.
strange how the first 2 only showed 8 volts when turned on ?????
try HULKMAN ALPHA 85 OR 100 on your testing
i can see how these jump packs are ok for like a tool to keep in your vehicle in case you have a dead battery. HOWEVER, as a tech what i use is a "good" used battery and attach some cables to it , the battery is one of those that have a built in handle strap. its rated for 650 CCA. In most cases about 90% it works just fine to jump any vehicle I need to. If it wont jump it I just change the battery on the lot. The battery was free. used some old jumper cables , cut one end of the clamps off and used generic battery terminals to attach it to the battery so its all contained on the battery. I just recharge it when needed.
The GB 70 gave engine 9 volts, that can't crank it can it? The GB 150 provided 10 volts, not enough? SP one provided 13.5. Isn't the minimum to start at least 12 volts? Noco's didn't seem to provide voltage needed.
Weird the sponsored unit worked so much better than the units that put out more power when used correctly. Project farm is a superior channel and noco is a superior product.
Project farm is a good view on the boost units. Smart Man. Earl White
You could have given the first one a few seconds to at least reach 12.5 volts!! It was only at 10.5 when you started cranking !! But the sp instantaneous 14 volts was impressive
@Michael B are you for real, when I find you on the road dead I'll pass you by🖐️
He is sponsored by the one that worked lol.
The gb150 was charging battery and volts were going up but this guy didn let it go up
@Michael B why do the gb units say to leave them hooked up for 30sec before cranking then? Legit question, I’m Just getting into these packs and trying to figure them out.
Dont buy the noco gbx series. Most of them dont charge. Noco needs to fix this problem.
Thats weird, this video might be rigged my gb70 started my friends 6.6L with 0 trouble and first try so i doubt the gb150 couldnt do it
Your voltage meter showed less than 12 volts when testing the GB70 and GB150. what's up with that?
It means his boost pack is not charged
It means the dead 12v battery is pulling down the voltage, not that the boost pack isn't charged.
Awful name! Seems sketchy almost criminal! Like a cat except not as cool
I guess you did not read the owners manual before doing this test. I believe every owners manual says to hook the booster to the battery. Maybe that is why it failed.
Project Farm (NOT sponsored, buys all tested products) has done 2 comparisons of jump boxes. Auto Auction Rebuilds has used the higher capacity Noco on his Co Part walk arounds, and has no issue starting ANY diesel pickup, along with starting 15-20 vehicles...
I noticed the sp tools jump pack boosted voltage to 13 to 14 volts were the genius never went past 10 volts for either
Did u have the other two NOCO fully charged before u used it? I would like to see the level of charge before u use it like the way u did with the SP
How many times can you use one of these jumper boxes before it needs to be replaced???
Most of the time they go bad from not being used. It’s better for them to be used here and there. I’ve had some last 5 years and still put out 75% ish of what they did new. Most of the noco’s I’ve had last about two years. Idk if that’s just bad luck or what🤷♂️
From watching other real-world tests on these boosters, it seems guys are turning them on, giving them a minute or so, and then holding the little exclamation mark button to bypass the safeties. Seems to work, maybe worth a try. Take care!
Great video and nice job showing all the connections close up. I have 2 of these jump starters (avapow 3000a and Fanttik 2000a) , and neither one will work on a battery that is below 50%, which is around 12.4 volts. So when some of these people say that their battery was stone cold dead, it was not. It still had at least 12 volts or close to it. The SP really works great, but the price tag is just too high.....I still carry jumper cables just in case all else fails
I have both the gb150 and the SP (well my "sp" is branded by the original manufacturer starkpower jumpbox fleetpro 1500w) I have been wanting to buy another but couldn't find it or anything like it since company went under till just the other day when I found the sp tools one but basically case and spec are exactly the same. As for gb150 both it's and the SP would jump a 7.3 powerstroke from what I see from the video he did not use the gb150 correctly the two box although performing similar function do it completely different the gb150 for lack of better explanation basic transfers it's charge to the truck battery so it need at least 30sec in completely dead situation sometimes longer but u hook it up and turn it on and it will continue to do its thing the CP is a basically an extreme booster its gonna be like switching ur charger to the boosted start engine setting that instructs u to not run it more than 30sec if vehicle doesn't start which the SP is the same way one it finds its polarity u have 15-30 sec to turn the key and start the vehicle before it times out and shuts off. In my experience with both of them they both have there times that are useful if you have vehicle that normal doesn't crank fast but cranks long to start then the gb150 is probably the way to go if u have a vehicle that likes fast short cranking then the SP would be the better option I've had situation where the SP wouldn't work cause it wouldn't allow me to crank long enough to where the GB150 did and vise a versa the gb150 wouldn't crank one vehicle fast enough when the SP would just my 2cents and experience working in a on-highway CAT dealership as a journeyman for 10years
Why you didn’t put the clamps to the battery??
Here is the problem when you post a video not using a tool to its potential remove the video replace it with a video that makes it look like you are manipulating the outcome and you lose all credibility.
How was the outcome manipulated? He clearly showed the entire engine and connection points. The NOCO did not start it..
Dude, you NEED to skip those stupid remote jump posts and hook it up straight to the battery.
I believe the noco can't tell a draw is being applied to the battery when its on the jump posts I would like to see if it hooked directly to the the battery it would make a difference !? maybe not, but would definitely rid of any Skepticism!
@@windsbra12 - Yeah, I’ve seen the GB70 jump start an old Cummins! The GB150 has started class 5 trucks. There are videos all over TH-cam of that happening!
I use my GB70 all the time to start the Cummins in the Motorhome or the tow rig. Straight to the battery and no heater grid on the tow rig in 30* weather without a hiccup
YOU NEVER CONNECT THESE DIRECT TO A BMW BATTERY.mines in my boot.that’s why the jump terminals are under the bonnet or hood lol
I was thinking what the hell is he doing lmao
They are following what the Chinese do when it comes to advertised specs. The GB150 is rated for 4000amps which is absurd. But they cleverly use the word "peak" output. So for maybe 50 milliseconds it peaked at 4000A, but that number is useless in the real world. They need to be made to rate their output in something realistic and useful like continuous (or average) numbers.
Want to know it’s not accurate? When you hold the boost button down to get manual mode it shows the voltage at 10volts. You’re not getting a good connection or the pack isn’t charged fully. Hook the gb150 directly to battery.
My battery is under my driver seat. So I only have posts to boost from. Would this still work well on a diesel if cannot connect direct to posts?
I used my GB70 on a 26ft box truck…works every time
Also funny that you noted it jumped the truck with only One battery.
It doesn't matter if you have 2, 1, or no batteries at all once the pack is connected.
Try it...
With any vehicle, disconnect the battery, clap the jump pack directly to the terminal ends of the battery cables, hit that manual override button that you thought was the extra turbo boost (obviously, because it won't automatically detect a battery when there's not one) and jump your car/truck/bike/boat/etc. ✌
@ 1:43. It's a "Joule" thing in terms of the marketing claims on (peak) current output. (1 Joule = 1 Watt * 1 Second). The Amp unit is buried in the Watt unit. Thanks for the side-by-side comparison.
Watched both videos and never doubted you for a second. Plan on getting the SP for my second gen Cummins. Your content is second to none.
Excellent! You demystified the issue. Thanks. Question. what do you think about the FORTEM Digital Tire Inflator for Car. I was thinking about getting it for my wife's vehicle.
good video, but something seems wrong with the first 2 packs. they aren't showing 12v when hooked up, let alone 13v. of course they wont start the truck - they wouldn't even start a motorcycle. lol
Jump to 11:37 in the video. The SP tools jump pack has boosted the truck battery voltage to 14.87 volts before the engine is started and with a discharged truck battery load. I suspect the SP tools jump pack has more battery cells in series to increase the output voltage. Can the SP tools jump pack be safely use as a battery (voltage) maintainer while programming modules for up to an hour?
The red ! Button is not a boost button it’s a manual override because the gb does bot detect a battery if it’s under 2v that button is only so you can jump start a car/truck battery that under 2v
Yes!!!!! This is exactly what I’ve been telling people FOREVER! Yet they insist on telling me it’s a boost button😂
I know it’s stupid
Winner!!!!!
Just at your voltmeter you can tell that 2nd test will not start it because it's showing under 12v on voltmeter and 3rd test with SP unit will start it because it's showing more than 13v so I already knew just by looking at voltmeter which one was going to start it and which one was not 🤗
I have NOCO GB70 and NOCO GB150 if your battery is down it will start it up but if your battery is flat 🪫 it doesn’t work i have 3.0L Diesel Toyota Hilux and 2.1L Diesel Mercedes Sprinter I am also disappointed with NOCO brand. Spend lot of money and outcome is worthless.
I think your are supposed to power off the Genious GB70 THEN hit the "I" to go into overboost
Coming from a tech that gets cars from the tow lot with stone dead batteries. The only test is with any to all batteries removed from the car (except high voltage hybrid batteries). My go to jumper is the jump and carry 770r (JNC 770R). What I have seen is that some vehicle charging systems are slow to start charging. My experience has been that the small jumpers shut down after jump starting causing the engine to shut down right after it started. In other words, will the jumper maintain a voltage after the jump start. Maybe disconnect the alternator also to see if with just the jumper box in the electrical system, will the vehicle crank and stay running without output from an alternator? Great video and that SP tools is a great contender.
Great points! I see those JNC770R’s and say to myself, nah I don’t really need that....and then I get a stone dead 6.0 Ford in the middle of winter. Then immediately kick myself in the butt lol
Why didn’t you hook it up to the battery terminals like you’re suppose too?
With good cables and connections it makes no difference at all. Plus all the packs were hooked up in the same way at the same place for testing control.
also i know its not in overboost as when you hold down the I for two seconds the status lights move rapidly in sequence, and it wasn't so maybe user error on this one
I have Matco Versa Pro 3. It works awesome. Cool video to see what else is out there
In my experience the Noco doesn't put out power as quickly as other units and you need to wait a minute after hooking it up to let it boost the battery.
The sp tools jumper brought battery voltage over 13 volts before cranking. The gb 150 only brought battery voltage just over 10. Is it defective?
That one is only 2-3 months old and another unit that is exactly the same we have at our shop performs the exact same. If anyone gets a new one and is able to get different results, I’d like to see it.
Rustbelt Mechanic I was just talking to a tow truck driver this week as he was dropping off a car. He said they have been using the gb 40 for two years with great results. Btw good video. I like the camera angle better than the last one.
Those packs weren't charged properley
Auto Zone uses the GB units to start customers vehicles. This video smells funky.
Even if you hooked a pair of jumper cables on that pickup you wouldn't get it to start right away. You got to let some charge get into the battery.
I got the GB150 for $175! It was totally worth it!
Explain this voodoo! Where did you find it so cheap?
Let it charge for 30 seconds
Where is the link to the jump packs down in the description below I don’t see him anywhere.. Pretty much they’re always at the top and in blue so you can click on them and go straight there. I loved your analysis of the units. And I appreciate that you Included the price. Thank you for the video.
Here’s the link to the SP pack, it’s out of stock though probably until the end of January...
sptoolsusa.com/products/sp61073-hd-diesel-1600a-jump-starter?_pos=3&_sid=3abaec15b&_ss=r
when you hit the boost button after hooking it up it turns off the boost so good try. been using noco for 8 years and never had a problem.
Just bought a GB70 and i'm sending it back. It only puts out 12v even after charging it with a bench power supply. If you have a relatively dumb car it does work, it started my 5.7 chevy with a battery at 8v - it delivered 200 amps during cranking so it does work to an extent. But it refused to start my L322 Range rover because the car needs more than 12v to even attempt to crank and this pack doesn't put out more than 12v and therefore doesn't deliver any 'boost' into the battery. So if you have a relatively dumb car that will start on sub 12v then it will work, but some more modern cars wont allow the engine to crank on 12v (which is actually considered at 50% battery level)
Wish the Sp had a 60 watt usb c to usb c Fast charge port.
thats cool. but how many years can you get out of them?
Sponsored by SP. shocked that it was the only one to start the truck
My Noco GB70 is a complete fail, because of a very serious design flaw. I tried to use mine at -24C and it just flashed error. Close reading of the instructions say its designed to shut down in temps colder that -20C. WTF? That's the one time I really needed it. BTW -20 is completely normal for the winter here in Canada.
Which jump starter you will recommend it more Noco GB 150 or Snap On EEJP600?
I have the GB70 and I have jumped my 6.4L before...not sure if I got lucky or not.
It'll start it with GB70 if you wait and give some time to charge the battery !!
Yes the GB70 Will Start that Vehicle because you Used it the CORRECT WAY.
These booster packs are designed differently. Noco takes alil bit to put the power in where the SP puts out Alot of it's power at first but only for a few seconds. I have several booster backs and one of the cheaper ones I bought off of Amazon is a Gooloo and it works like that SP tools it puts out a ton of power right off of the bat but within a few short seconds cuts off. I have started 10 vehicles in a row with it no problem but if you need to leave the vehicle running a minute with it on, it is not jump pack you want.
He knows. He’s a dishonest shill.
You didn't use the Noco correctly like others are saying.
Exactly!!!
How so exactly?
What happened u re-uploaded it?
You need to watch the AvE teardown video of the genius charger! They aren't made very well.
This is joke. I have a tiny 1000a peak booster. Starts anything from dead flat. You have to have a fully charged booster pack. 95% to 100% is a huge drop in charge for these booster pack
What's the difference between the Noco Boost Pro GB150 3,000A 9L gas 7L diesel and the Noco GENIUS Boost Pro GB150 4,000A 10L gas or diesel?????
Not sure, boost pro wasn’t out the time I did the video I believe
I emailed Noco, this is what they told Me.
Chris G (NOCO)
Jan 4, 2021, 10:14 MST
R,
Thanks for contacting NOCO Support.
The GB150 4000A has been replaced with the 3000A version. We revised our rating due to a change in the testing standards developed in a partnership with UL. However, the new 3000A GB150 is significantly more powerful than any previous versions. As resellers refresh their inventory, all that will be available is the 3000A version. I do apologize for the inconvenience.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
Regards,
Chris G
NOCO Support Specialist
Sadly for myself. I have owned two GB70s both useless, no starting power, and quickly flat...
Too expensive. Jnc770 half the cost even with coupon code. It is heavier, but so are diesel trucks.
Has anyone else noticed he never showed what the voltage was on the gb150 ?? I have one and start my f-350 no problem with dead batteries on truck multiple times. My batteries didn't hold charge so I had to jump it everytime.
The number stated on the unit is referring to the peak total power. Geepers!! if you had the like of 2000 amps going to your starter POOF! it would be fried. The starter would only take no more than what the master main fuse is rated for if even at that at least half to turn over a engine.
Rating is based on Temperatures... You're not going to get the full rating. If you're no where near that...
And these have two functions. The battery has to be above 2-3 volts. To work. If not. You have to hit the override button..To get the battery above that voltage. Then the NOCO will work.. It's a safety feature. to keep you from blowing your battery up..
Note that you are buying one that has 4 cells and not 3.
The voltage on the 3 cells is too low for large diesel engines.
Can I hook up the 40 / 70 to a NOCO Trickle Charger?
You mentioned you could bypass the safety feature on the sp tools unit, I just got mine in today and wondering how you do that? Thanks
Any water proof?
I agree 100 per cent noco is crap I had 2 and both were shit one melted the other wouldn't charge never again 'I'm gonna try gooloo 4000 I'm really impressed with the torque amps it spun the engine really fast and kept on going '''it would blow noco into the weeds 'not in the same league
Hook it up directly to the battery instead of the jumper
Bought NOCO 4250 amp off Amazon, not impressed by its capacity..Expected more,50 percent capacity loss after jumping one small car. Maybe mine is faulty?
When you hold the boost button the lights must scroll and it didn’t because he didn’t hit the button
Any jump pack should read 12+V with no load. My guess is Gb150 was defective. Or they need 20-30secs to reach 12v
@Alan d'Eonwanted it to fail
I really appreciate this video, I was going to buy the noco GB150 cuz I have the GB40 and it won't jump start any of the Audi's i work on now. It worked fine for small engines that have the batteries right next to it but most audi have jump posts on the engine bay and the battery is usually in the trunk or in other harder areas to reach. So good to know I didn't throw my money away. Thanks
This WOULD HAVE WORKED if he would’ve hooked it up straight to the battery instead of those stupid remote jump posts. You would NOT have wasted your money.
You wouldn't have wasted your money. The dude used the jumper packs incorrectly. Reading the manual shows you're supposed to leave it hooked up for a minute until it charges it to a good voltage basically. You can hold the power button (I believe. I could be wrong) and that will put it into manual override, and allow you to basically use it as a jumper pack straight away. This dude was basically using the noco gb packs as a jump starter straight away while it was in the battery charging mode.
I read this from someone's comment on how he was using the GB jumper packs wrong, which was a big reason it didn't jump off his vehicle straight away like he was hoping, so take that knowledge how you will.
The rating is more likely the manufacturer just selling a product because there's really no rating system they have to follow as far as I know. It's the same in the lighting industry. You can just say whatever you want. Kinda lame so shop smart and check the reviews like this one. Just an FYI, I would've hooked then all up direct to the battery. The big GB150 might have started the diesel that way.
You have to connect directly to battery. Ports is not a method of a direct charge
Man!! So many reviews on jump staters that make us really confused 🤷♂️! I just need a jump starter for my TJ 1997 so I can be cool when I’m camping 🏕! But I don’t really want to pay $$$$247.00 for a jumper! So I’m going to stick with something around $$$100.00! If anyone out there has a suggestion I’ll appreciate! Anyways thanks for the video!
Audew Upgraded Car Jump Starters, Jump Box 2000A Peak 20000mAh B...
$64.21
Prime day sale, I bought it when it was $100 bucks and jump starts everything I put it on so far.
It’s concerning that the Noco was only running at 9V which makes me think it’s not designed to be hooked up the way you did it.
He need to hook it up straight to the batter how’s it’s only running at 9v
Why wasn’t the ground hooked directly to the battery???
I had the Genius Boost if the battery was completely dead it didn't sense that there was a battery and it would not work. Have they since fixed this?
You killed the genius boosters before you took the video. The voltage of both should have gone above 12V. Showing us the light is stating that the booster is full but what is its voltage before you connect to the vehicle.
It is amazing that people DO not care about SOS or the light. They should. If you have ever been out away from city lights, it gets DARRRK! A little light goes a long ways in those conditions. AND...guess who knows what SOS sequence is? Emergency response and rescue units! Drive off the side of the road, put this on top of the vehicle, maybe cover it with a light bag and make it a lantern/beacon.
You gotta put one jump pack on each battery then get your buddy to hook one directly to the starter itself .
One year later are you still positive on the SP unit? I have a 5 year old GB40 that has ran out of horse power and I am going to replace it with something that has more muscle. Thanks
Great test, thanks for sharing. The difference of Lithium batteries has a lot to do with the grade or quality of graphite that they bind to the lithium cells, and also the quality of the binder. SP-Tools is obviously using a premium graphite and binder to adhere to the lithium cell. Companies are now adding SiNanode process to the graphite to increase the power, life, and speed of the charge. TESLA is leading the way but companies such as GM are charging forward and catching up. All-in-all what is added to the Lithium is what creates a superior battery.
You cannot believe these videos because the user is clueless about the products.
Granted, the GB products have highly inflated specs, but so does every other product.
What this guy should know is that if you just turn on the GB70/GB150 it goes into the default mode which just attempts to charge the car battery that is not completely depleted. In this mode it does not supply enough cranking amps to turn the starter on its own. It’s relying on the car battery in conjunction to do do.
The GB70/GB150 has an override mode which you have to press the ‘!’ button until all the lights start blinking like crazy. This mode bypasses the car battery altogether and attempts to supply all the current necessary to crank the starter. This is explained in the manual, which I’m sure this guy is too manly to read. In this video, he did not put either the GB70 or the GB150 in the override mode. He needs to press ‘!’ button AFTER the power level lights become steady after turning on the units. He was pressing it on the GB150 while those lights were still cycling, meaning the unit is still trying to sense polarity and other stuff, and never got into the override mode, which would have been indicated by all the lights pulsing at the same time.
It’s actually NOCO to blame for user errors like these because the default mode is not how most people use these booster packs. The override mode is how most people want or expect these things to work. It should be the default or only mode.
I have the GB70 myself and have no problems with it starting big trucks. But if I were to buy now I would choose another brand/unit not because the GBs don’t work. It’s because I can find much better value elsewhere.