Best tub install video on You Tube. Really appreciate a great craftsman doing his thing. Like the mixing auger too, first time I’ve seen one. Well done
Even though you panned the camera past that inset in your tile for soap or whatever for just a second or two, that's what really caught my eye. My complements to you for a really nice job of tiling that in. I had a guy working for me a while back that literally ruined a tile job by mismeasuring his tile cuts and just globbing pieces in with grout. Told me he knew how to do it. You know how that goes I'm sure! Took me a full extra day to bust out what he did and get back to something close to what you have here. Anyway, you did a quality job there. Nice work.
Hey, I appreciate the time and effort you put into each teaching video. I find that watch multiple videos show different types of tubs being installed is helpful for me to understand. Watch - Rinse - ReWatch. Thanks!
Love your videos! I have always used the locking nuts and gaskets to plumb sinks and tub. Learned not too long ago that apparently it is not allowed by codes in some jurisdictions to use these types of fittings, especially on tubs. So just check, you may have to bond all the connections for the overflow and drain assembly.
The soaker tub is a definite female favorite at our house! I would suggest senior citizens add at least one safety 'grab bar' at this stage of an install, since a retrofit later is a much greater challenge.
Thanks, it actually does not say or discourage anything about screwing through flange, but does spec and recommend washers with screws that pinch flange to wall 👍
My back hurts watching you remove the tub so many times. lol. Great job on video. I do have a suggestion. I alway plumb drain shoe assembly first. After marking drain hole I put cross hairs, centered, extending past where I’m cutting floor. It makes it very easy to know where to plumb to. Everything can be done on the same floor as tub. Most of the time there isn’t access anyhow. Just a suggestion though. Both ways will work. Also, I like using high density spray foam vs mortar bed. I also would have wanted to frame 60 1/4” vs 60”. 1/8” wiggle room on both sides of endwall rail isn’t a bad thing. Again, great job on video and I can tell you care about your work. ✌🏻
Please respond! I'm currently doing this exact project and barely know what I'm doing ... shouldn't all that plumbing be in place in the floor before setting the tub? And then final connections made with the tub in place with the threaded fittings without any silicone or putty? Don't Mechanical threaded connections say to not use silicone? do you not recommend insulating wherever possible to keep bathroom noise down for the adjoining rooms? fender washers work dont they? I mean gravity will be holding it down, just need some lateral securement... cant you cut your access hole as big as you want? you can patch it later.
Can you use construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) instead of silicone on top of the ledger board? I was thinking it might be better to have something that gives way less than silicone.
Until you do this as I did recently, you don't realize how tricky it is to get level and line up the drain especially if it's an old house, no access to the trap but eventually I got it.
Great videos! Have you ever installed a Kohler Underscore tub? Was wondering about the quality and such. Also my wife wants black trim, American Standard doesn't have that trim color for tubs.
I have the same uneven floor situation. Did you put shims or mortar under the apron that was floating 1/2 in above the floor (to support someone sitting on the apron)?
I dont understand - if the backerboard only goes to the top of the tub flange, how are you getting the tile all the way to the top of the tub and how are you waterproofing it?
Great video for anyone with some working knowledge of building things. The question is, I see you used PEX as a drop for the tub spout to the Drop Ear. I thought faucet manufactory recommend only copper for tub spout drop? Can you use PEx to a drop ear than copper or pipe from drop ear to tub?
Im sure by now if you did a renovation you are done, but for reference manufacturers want a rigid tub spout for obvious reasons. You don't want a spout that moves if you grab it for obvious reasons. The method in the video used a drop ear elbow secured to the framing with screws and an appropriate length threaded nipple that the spout will thread into. Since the elbow is secured to framing the spout will be rigid and works just fine and gives and gives flexibility to the spout to valve location you desire for a particular installation. I think doing it like shown gives more rigidity than the pre made copper stub outs that are made for tub spouts.
@@Cobalt135 I know this is insanely late but the reason you don't want to use pex even down to the drop ear is that 1/2" pex has smaller inside diameter than 1/2" copper, enough so that it will back the flow up and go out of the shower head when trying to fill the bath. This only goes for tubs with the diverter in the spout and not in the handle.
I'm installing this exactl tub. First timer. Installed it this weekend then yesterday noticed it was 1/4 inch out of level towards back long wall. Took it up today and will try again tomorrow. AS said 2 bags of mortar but that made the tub sit 4" too high. Seems 1 bag is about right. I had cemeted the drain assembly (basement concrete floor) so Im hoping things line up or its back to the jackhammer :( Any wisdom?
No, I do not believe that to be true And what warranty claim would you have where that would be denied? Leaking of bottom of tub? Acrylic coating flaking? I guess if you called in a claim for tub deck flange leaking I could see them voiding it
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I asked them yesterday because the washers interfere with the backer board and tile and they said you will void the warranty if you alter the tub contrary to the directions. I guess the warranty would be if it leaked? Maybe the warranty for a tub is useless. You have bigger issues if it comes to that.
@@romeobravo78 did you install the ledgers all the way around? Once those are level & set in right place…it’s hard to not make level unless you are fighting to much mortar…
Well now I know why my new tub was all scratched up when I moved in . Why don't they put some of the protective plastic sheets on the finished surface. The type you see on a fridge , dishwasher or clothes washer ? Ever see anyone use expanding foam as a support rather than the floor leveler or cement mix?
I really appreciate your tutorials. I want to install a tub in my basement. And because the floor is concrete.. I was wondering if I need to build a base for the p-trap.. Do you have any suggestions?
Do you have a drain routers through floor? If not, some people do create platforms to be able to tie in above the concrete floor. It’s a heck of a step into tub though 😆
Have you noticed on this tub that the 2 runner on the bottom are taller than the apron? They say the apron should rest on the ground yet that's impossible the way the tub was designed. A/S told me to just shave off some of the runners but I shouldn't have to do that on a $700 tub. I had installed mine and there was a 5/8" gap between apron and subfloor and their recommendation was to uninstall which I did. Now I have a drain assemble cemented into the ground, a wasted perfect mortar job, and a new tub on the way.
Were the runners on your new tub any shorter? I have the same issue with this tub. Runners raise the apron about 1/4" off the ground, and the A/S rep said there should be some mortar under the runners (not just between them), so that will raise it even higher.
@@tandtalias No they weren't. So what I did was flip the tub upside down and take a planer I borrowed and planed off about 1/4" of the runners. I then readjusted the stringer heights and dry fit the tub a couple times until I was happy with the set. I mixed 1 bag of mortar and made 3 long rows of mortar that were higher (maybe 4-5" tall) and squished the tub into them. The valleys between the rows allowed the mortar to squish out and fill the gaps. I tried to get it between the runners but I think some got under them which was fine because I think the height of the stringers kept the runners off the floor anyway. So they are also sitting on some mortar. It turned out solid and perfect. Way too much work for a $700 tub though...Goodluck! American Standard was helpful though.
@@romeobravo78 Thanks for the quick response. Guess we'll have to go that path also. The runners on ours also have a bow, so they don't even sit flat on the floor. And the bottom surface of the tub rim is so rough it can't make full contact along the entire ledger, so will have to try a bead of silicone to fill the gaps for better support. Good to hear you're happy with yours in the end, but agree you should not have to do this for a $700 tub! Disappointing quality for American Standard, for sure!
@@tandtalias Just use the ledger for level, not support. And again don't sweat the runners. Just make sure the mortar is supporting that center gap. I put it in a took it out 3 different times. Last time I agonized over doing it because I already soldered the water lines. But as I was knocking my knuckles on the floor of the tub it sounded hollow. So I bit the bullet and took it out and was glad I did as I didn't make my mortar piles high enough. So I did it one more time, using the three long rows of mortar and now when I knock it sounds very solid.
You know your stuff. Wish I would have watched this before my local plumber screwed me for $2k to install one tub similar to this and one shower valve. I bought all the materials other than drains.
WOW, here in rural ohio they wanted 1200 to rough in a shower + materials.... Needless to say ive redone all three of my bathrooms with great success from watching this guy and his buddy with the beard..... Just make sure to water test/pressure test everything.. 24hr pan test if your doing schluter shower system or something similar..... I hate paying people for things i can do my self just as good and sometimes better.....
@@throlyhd9448 yeah pretty expensive. I am in Northern Ut and honestly just have never felt comfortable doing bathtubs. I can rough in shower valves but I figured while the plumber was there he might as well do that too. Stuff is just getting crazy expensive and it’s hard to do everything yourself but that’s the way things are moving for sure
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher honestly thank for you the videos and tricks/tips you put out, I'm the type of guy that even with the money to pay for work to be done I'd rather do it myself and if I fail it's a lesson earned rather that always rely on someone else.... so thanks for the content you've saved me alot of money and help me gain confidence to redo all my bathrooms
Directions show the overflow gasket with the thick portion to the bottom. Looks like you put it on the top. Either way I've put it and dry fitted the tub I'm loose on either side. That would've been nice to hear better explanation on what you did instead you're covering it with your hands the whole time you installed it.
My wife and I are redoing a very small bathroom which is roughly 8‘ x 5‘ and then a shower and tub which we want to redo which is your typical 60 x 30. Looking for a new tub can be exhausting and we don’t know which is better between fiberglass or porcelain enamel steel. We have been told that steel will last longer and is probably a little better? We plan on being in this house for a long time and we have four kids that use the bathroom so what’s the difference in a generic $300 tub from Lowe’s or Home Depot and the ones that are more expensive? American Standard has a new tub that is called the new solar which is porcelain enamel steel and it’s $500 and looks great. Do you recommend that one?
Haven’t heard of that one? I’ll have to check it out. Sounds like their Americast type tubs. Which are great 👍 Don’t shop at box stores 😆 even the name brands cheapen out! (Kohler being the most disappointing)
Amanada, not sure where you live, but I went to FW Webb and got a higher quality tub (the one in the video actually), it cost probably double what I would have paid at the big department stores, but the reviews were much higher and the quality seemed better when compared to the department store offerings. Look to see if you have large plumbing supply stores or kitchen and bath stores in your area. @@amandahively5285
I can’t believe how much cheap plastic is used for the drain. I know the argument that it won’t rust, but what about cracking, how long will it last over the decades it will be used?
Not enough detail on setting the ledge boards. Measured 1.5 inches below what? Never showed thickness of tub flange. What was the 1.5" below? Leads me to believe the tub flange is 1.5 inches thick. How would I know as he never showed the thickness of the tub flange. I kept looking to see as he dry fitted. This guy installed the tub and described the installation to someone who already knows how to install an alcove tub. I have never installed one. Like asking someone for directions. They always give you directions as if you know the area already. To the direction describer, everything is simple as they know the area. For an out of towner, it is not that simple. "go to the 2nd stop sign make a left, then go to third dirt road make a right (skips the dirt driveway that could be a dirt road" give me a break. I am going to watch someone who else.
Wow dude. Sorry you have such trouble understanding. Please move on or buy a course for more detailed instruction bathroomremodeling.teachable.com/p/home
All the bathrooms I install tubs in are just over or at 60 inches from stud to stud, I generally cut the drywall 16 inches past and about 4 feet up by the tub, this gives you an open stud bay to tilt the tub in place, without doing this there's no way to tilt the tub without getting it stuck.
These tubs are nothing but garbage, flimsy, and the fiberglassing is a joke that you see straight through the acrylic. Absolutely no quality controll concerns from the manufacturer, just overpriced crap, look elsewhere for a tub.
![[UNCUT] "เสรีพิศุทธ์" แฉยับ! งัดหลักฐานใหม่ชั้น 14 ได้นอนคุกสมใจแน่!! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 2 ก.ย.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/O1SSg4p9Izs/mqdefault.jpg)
Love this guy. Hard worker and very helpful.
Wow I must have watched 30 or 40 bathroom videos and this is absolutely gorgeous very inspirational oh boy I got my work cut out for me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Love how you are actually teaching man. Thanks for creating this content.
All the tub install videos I have seen so far this is the best one. Good tips with the trash bag and silicone on ledger boards.
Your videos are so good. Your explanations and how you show everything makes it all make sense.
Thanks 😊 hope it helps 👍
Best tub install video on You Tube. Really appreciate a great craftsman doing his thing. Like the mixing auger too, first time I’ve seen one. Well done
Even though you panned the camera past that inset in your tile for soap or whatever for just a second or two, that's what really caught my eye. My complements to you for a really nice job of tiling that in. I had a guy working for me a while back that literally ruined a tile job by mismeasuring his tile cuts and just globbing pieces in with grout. Told me he knew how to do it. You know how that goes I'm sure! Took me a full extra day to bust out what he did and get back to something close to what you have here. Anyway, you did a quality job there. Nice work.
Just a great ,down to earth explanation by a craftsman. This has helped me feel confident about tackling my project. Big TU.
This guy is the GOAT. He needs to be training the next generation.
Hey, I appreciate the time and effort you put into each teaching video. I find that watch multiple videos show different types of tubs being installed is helpful for me to understand. Watch - Rinse - ReWatch. Thanks!
Love your videos! I have always used the locking nuts and gaskets to plumb sinks and tub. Learned not too long ago that apparently it is not allowed by codes in some jurisdictions to use these types of fittings, especially on tubs. So just check, you may have to bond all the connections for the overflow and drain assembly.
Good point. You can’t win with code in a lot of places.
Best video out there for learning this job. Great work.
The soaker tub is a definite female favorite at our house! I would suggest senior citizens add at least one safety 'grab bar' at this stage of an install, since a retrofit later is a much greater challenge.
I love soaking too I'm not a female
Thanks for the video! FYI the AS website recommends against putting screws through the flange.
Thanks, it actually does not say or discourage anything about screwing through flange, but does spec and recommend washers with screws that pinch flange to wall 👍
WOW! Just so beautiful.
All i have to know before i DIY my bathtub replacement!! Thanks you sir!!!
Fantastic
My back hurts watching you remove the tub so many times. lol. Great job on video. I do have a suggestion. I alway plumb drain shoe assembly first. After marking drain hole I put cross hairs, centered, extending past where I’m cutting floor. It makes it very easy to know where to plumb to. Everything can be done on the same floor as tub. Most of the time there isn’t access anyhow. Just a suggestion though. Both ways will work. Also, I like using high density spray foam vs mortar bed. I also would have wanted to frame 60 1/4” vs 60”. 1/8” wiggle room on both sides of endwall rail isn’t a bad thing. Again, great job on video and I can tell you care about your work. ✌🏻
The best teacher when it comes to explaining how to do it .
Followed you’re tips to the T
Thanks …
Learned so much from this guy 👍👍👍👍
Duravit also makes really nice, sturdy, reinforced tubs. Just installed one in my house recently. You should check them out, price is OK too.
Great work
Could you use a laser level to set all the Leger boards?
Amazing workmanship! 👍
Beautiful job you,are,the,best
P.S. your work is amazing!
Looks Great !!!
Please respond! I'm currently doing this exact project and barely know what I'm doing ...
shouldn't all that plumbing be in place in the floor before setting the tub? And then final connections made with the tub in place with the threaded fittings without any silicone or putty? Don't Mechanical threaded connections say to not use silicone?
do you not recommend insulating wherever possible to keep bathroom noise down for the adjoining rooms?
fender washers work dont they? I mean gravity will be holding it down, just need some lateral securement...
cant you cut your access hole as big as you want? you can patch it later.
very nice video and explanation.
Great helpful information
Thank keep posting
can you use ridged foam instead of concrete to level/ insulate your tub
Great content. would be a great college instructor.
Can you use construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) instead of silicone on top of the ledger board? I was thinking it might be better to have something that gives way less than silicone.
Yes 👍 a polysealant/adhesive would be the best
Until you do this as I did recently, you don't realize how tricky it is to get level and line up the drain especially if it's an old house, no access to the trap but eventually I got it.
Great videos! Have you ever installed a Kohler Underscore tub? Was wondering about the quality and such. Also my wife wants black trim, American Standard doesn't have that trim color for tubs.
I have the same uneven floor situation. Did you put shims or mortar under the apron that was floating 1/2 in above the floor (to support someone sitting on the apron)?
How do you do final connection if we don't have access like basement floors?
Muy bien gracias! Dios lo bendiga! Con mucha salud.
I dont understand - if the backerboard only goes to the top of the tub flange, how are you getting the tile all the way to the top of the tub and how are you waterproofing it?
Great video! 1 ) Is there a 3 piece surround that goes with this tub? and 2) Can a Delta 500 3 piece surround be used with this tub? Thanks!
Yes 👍 Installing an American Standard Tub & Delta 500 Series Shower Surround | Complete Step by Step Guide
th-cam.com/video/-CHa1y0pRpk/w-d-xo.html
what f yo dont have access to the trap from under or side? great helpful videos
Out of all the alcove tubs you have installed with tile walls what is your recommended brand and model tub for quality durability and longevity
Yur hired!
Great video for anyone with some working knowledge of building things. The question is, I see you used PEX as a drop for the tub spout to the Drop Ear. I thought faucet manufactory recommend only copper for tub spout drop? Can you use PEx to a drop ear than copper or pipe from drop ear to tub?
Im sure by now if you did a renovation you are done, but for reference manufacturers want a rigid tub spout for obvious reasons. You don't want a spout that moves if you grab it for obvious reasons. The method in the video used a drop ear elbow secured to the framing with screws and an appropriate length threaded nipple that the spout will thread into. Since the elbow is secured to framing the spout will be rigid and works just fine and gives and gives flexibility to the spout to valve location you desire for a particular installation. I think doing it like shown gives more rigidity than the pre made copper stub outs that are made for tub spouts.
@@Cobalt135 I know this is insanely late but the reason you don't want to use pex even down to the drop ear is that 1/2" pex has smaller inside diameter than 1/2" copper, enough so that it will back the flow up and go out of the shower head when trying to fill the bath. This only goes for tubs with the diverter in the spout and not in the handle.
FYI according to American Standard, the warranty is voided if you drill through the flange. They require the washers which are a pain in the butt.
I'm installing this exactl tub. First timer. Installed it this weekend then yesterday noticed it was 1/4 inch out of level towards back long wall. Took it up today and will try again tomorrow. AS said 2 bags of mortar but that made the tub sit 4" too high. Seems 1 bag is about right. I had cemeted the drain assembly (basement concrete floor) so Im hoping things line up or its back to the jackhammer :( Any wisdom?
No, I do not believe that to be true
And what warranty claim would you have where that would be denied? Leaking of bottom of tub? Acrylic coating flaking?
I guess if you called in a claim for tub deck flange leaking I could see them voiding it
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I asked them yesterday because the washers interfere with the backer board and tile and they said you will void the warranty if you alter the tub contrary to the directions. I guess the warranty would be if it leaked? Maybe the warranty for a tub is useless. You have bigger issues if it comes to that.
@@romeobravo78 did you install the ledgers all the way around?
Once those are level & set in right place…it’s hard to not make level unless you are fighting to much mortar…
As I said in my other post, it does in fact state on the directions for this tub not to drill through the flange! @@BathroomRemodelingTeacher
Well now I know why my new tub was all scratched up when I moved in . Why don't they put some of the protective plastic sheets on the finished surface. The type you see on a fridge , dishwasher or clothes washer ? Ever see anyone use expanding foam as a support rather than the floor leveler or cement mix?
I've seen another video where you only put a ledger on the back side. How do you decide if you need them on all 3 sides?
It is recommended to do all three sides 👍
I really appreciate your tutorials. I want to install a tub in my basement. And because the floor is concrete.. I was wondering if I need to build a base for the p-trap.. Do you have any suggestions?
Do you have a drain routers through floor? If not, some people do create platforms to be able to tie in above the concrete floor. It’s a heck of a step into tub though 😆
Have you noticed on this tub that the 2 runner on the bottom are taller than the apron? They say the apron should rest on the ground yet that's impossible the way the tub was designed. A/S told me to just shave off some of the runners but I shouldn't have to do that on a $700 tub. I had installed mine and there was a 5/8" gap between apron and subfloor and their recommendation was to uninstall which I did. Now I have a drain assemble cemented into the ground, a wasted perfect mortar job, and a new tub on the way.
Were the runners on your new tub any shorter? I have the same issue with this tub. Runners raise the apron about 1/4" off the ground, and the A/S rep said there should be some mortar under the runners (not just between them), so that will raise it even higher.
@@tandtalias No they weren't. So what I did was flip the tub upside down and take a planer I borrowed and planed off about 1/4" of the runners. I then readjusted the stringer heights and dry fit the tub a couple times until I was happy with the set. I mixed 1 bag of mortar and made 3 long rows of mortar that were higher (maybe 4-5" tall) and squished the tub into them. The valleys between the rows allowed the mortar to squish out and fill the gaps. I tried to get it between the runners but I think some got under them which was fine because I think the height of the stringers kept the runners off the floor anyway. So they are also sitting on some mortar. It turned out solid and perfect. Way too much work for a $700 tub though...Goodluck! American Standard was helpful though.
@@romeobravo78 Thanks for the quick response. Guess we'll have to go that path also. The runners on ours also have a bow, so they don't even sit flat on the floor. And the bottom surface of the tub rim is so rough it can't make full contact along the entire ledger, so will have to try a bead of silicone to fill the gaps for better support. Good to hear you're happy with yours in the end, but agree you should not have to do this for a $700 tub! Disappointing quality for American Standard, for sure!
@@tandtalias Just use the ledger for level, not support. And again don't sweat the runners. Just make sure the mortar is supporting that center gap. I put it in a took it out 3 different times. Last time I agonized over doing it because I already soldered the water lines. But as I was knocking my knuckles on the floor of the tub it sounded hollow. So I bit the bullet and took it out and was glad I did as I didn't make my mortar piles high enough. So I did it one more time, using the three long rows of mortar and now when I knock it sounds very solid.
My project is so similar. Big thanks for your video!
Are ledgers all around necessary for an enameled steel tub?
No not typically. And not all acrylics need it either. This one recommends it 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher thank you so much! Your install looks literally perfect, thank you so much for creating content!
What thermostat did you use for the radiant flooring?
Great work. What kind of screws did you use to secure the tub?
Regular galvanized deck screws 👍
You know your stuff. Wish I would have watched this before my local plumber screwed me for $2k to install one tub similar to this and one shower valve. I bought all the materials other than drains.
WOW, here in rural ohio they wanted 1200 to rough in a shower + materials.... Needless to say ive redone all three of my bathrooms with great success from watching this guy and his buddy with the beard..... Just make sure to water test/pressure test everything.. 24hr pan test if your doing schluter shower system or something similar..... I hate paying people for things i can do my self just as good and sometimes better.....
@@throlyhd9448 yeah pretty expensive. I am in Northern Ut and honestly just have never felt comfortable doing bathtubs. I can rough in shower valves but I figured while the plumber was there he might as well do that too. Stuff is just getting crazy expensive and it’s hard to do everything yourself but that’s the way things are moving for sure
Sorry to hear that,. Nothing is worse than getting ripped off like that
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher honestly thank for you the videos and tricks/tips you put out, I'm the type of guy that even with the money to pay for work to be done I'd rather do it myself and if I fail it's a lesson earned rather that always rely on someone else.... so thanks for the content you've saved me alot of money and help me gain confidence to redo all my bathrooms
That's nothing, I just paid 9500.00 to have my old tub taken out and this one installed with Swanstone surround!!
Directions show the overflow gasket with the thick portion to the bottom. Looks like you put it on the top. Either way I've put it and dry fitted the tub I'm loose on either side. That would've been nice to hear better explanation on what you did instead you're covering it with your hands the whole time you installed it.
Notes taken 👍
DTY should protect the tub from scratchers, put a drop cloth down when you step on it.
My drinking word for this video is "basically"... 😆
What it cost to install a. Bath tub drain,your job looks elexent wish i could hire u.
I just had this exact tub installed with swan stone surround and new shower stuff as well and it cost a total of 9500.00. It isn't cheap!
Installing the new tub was easy, getting the old cast iron tub out was a nightmare! I had to bust it up with a 5 pound hammer
I have to finally comment on how much you look like Trent Reznor.
My wife and I are redoing a very small bathroom which is roughly 8‘ x 5‘ and then a shower and tub which we want to redo which is your typical 60 x 30.
Looking for a new tub can be exhausting and we don’t know which is better between fiberglass or porcelain enamel steel. We have been told that steel will last longer and is probably a little better?
We plan on being in this house for a long time and we have four kids that use the bathroom so what’s the difference in a generic $300 tub from Lowe’s or Home Depot and the ones that are more expensive?
American Standard has a new tub that is called the new solar which is porcelain enamel steel and it’s $500 and looks great. Do you recommend that one?
Haven’t heard of that one? I’ll have to check it out. Sounds like their Americast type tubs. Which are great 👍
Don’t shop at box stores 😆 even the name brands cheapen out! (Kohler being the most disappointing)
Where do you recommend buying a tub from instead of a box store? I’m looking to buy one to redo my bathroom.
Amanada, not sure where you live, but I went to FW Webb and got a higher quality tub (the one in the video actually), it cost probably double what I would have paid at the big department stores, but the reviews were much higher and the quality seemed better when compared to the department store offerings. Look to see if you have large plumbing supply stores or kitchen and bath stores in your area. @@amandahively5285
Im tackling my shower tub right now any advice if I dnt have access under to connect all drains.?? Thanks
It’s certainly a lot tougher. Do you have back access?
I do but I dnt think it’s big enough to move around pipes and to glue it all together
@@juniormedina9282 I would recoomend rearranging pipes before setting pipe. Then set trap like I did here th-cam.com/video/LX4oQHsmdc8/w-d-xo.html
@@juniormedina9282 I have a course on this too bathroomremodeling.teachable.com/p/tub-to-shower-course
Thank you for all you do to help others like me.
Why was the plumbing on a exterior wall, should have installed a right hand drain.
13:30 damn bro... nice caulk
Where's the plumbers putty?
I can’t believe how much cheap plastic is used for the drain. I know the argument that it won’t rust, but what about cracking, how long will it last over the decades it will be used?
Great question 👍
Pity the guy who needs to remove the drain assembly. Also check your local code before using that non glued drain.
My average is 5 dry fits
Not enough detail on setting the ledge boards. Measured 1.5 inches below what? Never showed thickness of tub flange. What was the 1.5" below? Leads me to believe the tub flange is 1.5 inches thick. How would I know as he never showed the thickness of the tub flange. I kept looking to see as he dry fitted. This guy installed the tub and described the installation to someone who already knows how to install an alcove tub. I have never installed one. Like asking someone for directions. They always give you directions as if you know the area already. To the direction describer, everything is simple as they know the area. For an out of towner, it is not that simple. "go to the 2nd stop sign make a left, then go to third dirt road make a right (skips the dirt driveway that could be a dirt road" give me a break. I am going to watch someone who else.
Wow dude. Sorry you have such trouble understanding. Please move on or buy a course for more detailed instruction
bathroomremodeling.teachable.com/p/home
you need more tools in your pouch
Show a realistic installation where the whole bathroom is the same width as the tub alcove...I would love to watch you fight with it
Jacuzzi Tub Installation
th-cam.com/video/FwLLOEKqC7w/w-d-xo.html
All the bathrooms I install tubs in are just over or at 60 inches from stud to stud, I generally cut the drywall 16 inches past and about 4 feet up by the tub, this gives you an open stud bay to tilt the tub in place, without doing this there's no way to tilt the tub without getting it stuck.
These tubs are nothing but garbage, flimsy, and the fiberglassing is a joke that you see straight through the acrylic. Absolutely no quality controll concerns from the manufacturer, just overpriced crap, look elsewhere for a tub.
What tub would you recommend using?