2022 Ford Maverick Door Speaker Upgrade (Focal K2 Power) & Sound Deadening
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- How to remove door panels for replacing factory speaker. How to remove the window regulator (black plastic panel) for sound deadening inner door sheet metal.
0:00 Intro
0:28 Demo with and w/o Sound Deadening
0:47 Factory Speaker vs Focal Speaker Comparison
1:30 Tools/Material Needed
2:40 Door Panel Removal
6:50 How to Connect Speaker Wire to Speaker (Two Methods)
9:09 Resoldering Speaker Wire Harness
10:28 Minor modification to Door Panel (thin plastic ring removal)
11:18 Sound Deaden Door Panel (Blue Plastic Panel)
12:17 Removing Window Regulator (Black Plastic Panel)
18:38 Sound Deaden Inner Door Metal
19:50 Sound Deaden Windor Regulator Panel
20:05 Adding Closed Cell Foam (CCF) to Inner Door
21:18 Reinstall Door Panel
24:29 Ending - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
UPDATE #2!!
Check out this forum page on how to remove the window regulator easier than how I attempted it.
www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/window-regulator-panel-removal-for-sound-dampening-install.39136/
UPDATE!!!
I missed the sixth fastener when removing the door panel. See link for more details. 😅
www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/remove-door-panel-or-door-card.39022/
Also, I didn’t use the speaker spacers after all. Was able to barely squeeze the speaker inside. This fixed the issue with the speaker vibrating on the door panel.
Be careful with removing the door panel that you don’t break the door handle mechanism. It clips in a certain way. Take note of it and practice reattaching it. It’s not as difficult as I made it look if you know how it goes back on!
Great video. Showed each step appropriately and all the work that goes into something like this. With the video, it becomes a high level DIY, but at least doable.
Great work. I rarely see anyone put in that much effort. If you do wind up taking the panels back off, I highly recommend some hydrophobic melamine foam (HMF) in the door cavity. It helps a ton with rear wave absorption. It measurably improves midbass and will absorb higher frequencies from reflecting back through the speaker cone.
Thanks. I did add some blackhole tiles inside the door later on to absorb some of the back waves. I may go back in after summer and add some HMF.
Awesome video man. Should have my Maverick in 2 months, this is the first major upgrade I'm going to tackle
It's definitely worth it! Just be prepared for some frustration haha.
Amazing effort and time spent on this project. Great job!
Thanks!
Thanks for making these videos, they were essential in helping me not break clips
You’re welcome
Just an observation with plugging the new speaker into the factory wire and you have to cut and re-solder it. One just drill a hole in the plastic hosing just big enough to fit the speaker side cable through before pluggin them into the speaker. Going past that you were removing the whole window regulator panel which would make it so when you put it back on you can just feed the wires through the way you need them haha. Not trying to hate at all you did some awesome work espicailly with the sound deadening. Just for the people that aint going to go that far with it some simpler fixes than having to resolder the wires.
Appreciate the feedback! No doubt your solution would of been 1000x easier lol.
Nice video man! Keep them coming!
Thanks! Might do a few more videos.
Just got a small notch in the spacer ring for the wire.
Lots of hard work by someone with Lazy in his name. Nice job.
You did a Damn Good Job.. You didn't cheapen your premium Focal's by cutting up the factory speaker bracket.. And you didn't ghetto-phy your vehicle as will with your wire harness modification.. . I've see videos of people butchering their vehicle factory wires. The sound treatment was a nice touch as well..Good Job..
Thanks!! Super happy with how it sounds. Now I’m thinking of making a fiberglass subwoofer box to either fit under the rear seats or behind it. Not sure I can fit my 13.5” JL TW5 sub though lol
Dude, this is amazing! Please be in SoCal so I can hire you to do this to my Mav!
Thanks! Out here in AZ. Not sure I ever wanna do this again lol
Hey had a question in what store did you get your speaker gasket tape
By the way you did a very good job on your video explaining every little detail.
Thanks! Ordered the tape from Amazon
Great job. I'm sure it made a big difference in there. I'm still waiting for my cactus grey hybrid xlt. Not sure I'll have the energy to do what you've done here. Looks great though
Thanks! I'm definitely happy with the sound coming from my door speakers. Zero rattling from the door at high volume (even with the subwoofer turned up high!).
It was a lot of work. Recommend doing it little by little to not be overwhelmed.
Love this video, how much foam did you end up using for all 4 doors and behind the back seats. I want to make sure I buy the right amount the first time. I really appreciate the dept you went into this tear down, super easy to follow, cheers
Thanks! I can’t recall exactly how much I used. I bought 27 sqft of foam and had plenty left over. I would estimate about 20 sqft
Good luck on your install!
Watched your 4 videos, very nice work.
Did all the damping make your maverick noticeably quieter when not playing music?
Thanks! I haven’t noticed a difference in road noise from the sound dampening. But the bass is very clean sounding without any rattles 😉. Now I get to be annoyed by the small creaking sounds from the passenger-side dash (near the tweeter grill). Got to fix that someday 😅
Nice job! Very thorough. Have you installed many car speakers before? At first, I was watching this clip thinking I could do this, to coming away convinced there's no way I could it fully with how much detailed work you did 👍🏼 Impressive!
Thanks! I've installed single & double din headunits before. Not many speakers and never sound deadening. It was definitely a learning experience and a few weekends of work! Also installed an amplifier. I might show a run down on that process too.
I had to buy a lot of tools/materials for this install. I figured if I'm going to attempt this, better do it right. Would not recommend if DIY is not your thing. Took me HOURS to complete.
For the speaker wire you can just drill a hole on the side of the housing and run the wire through then put silicone to seal/hold it in place.
Yes, definitely a better option than what I did. Thanks for the advice
Yoo! How did you get that door handle clip back on, I gave up after struggling with it forever and might have to take it to the dealer.
Ugh, fuck that door handle lol. Was a pain in the ass to put back on. If I remember correctly, there’s a tab that the door handle fits under to snap it in place.
Nice work! Any idea what that black wiring running across the mid section of the inside of the door went to? Any chance it was just plugged and went to nothing?
Thanks. I don’t remember what that wiring was for. Maybe for the power door locks?
@@LazyMex thank you
Where did you get the closed cell foam; and do you have a link?
resonixsoundsolutions.com/
Curious to know 2 things... to add the sound deadener to the door skins, could you have just loosened the window regulator and fit your hands behind (basically stop removing at 15:45) ? I really want to do this but I don't want to mess around with releasing the window. Also, after you completed the job, was it worth it? Is the sound deadening really noticeable? great job by the way.
You probably could fit your arm inside without removing the entire window regulator but it’ll make the job harder. More effective to use large pieces of sound deadening rather than a bunch of smaller pieces too. If you got skinny arms, try it! May not get as much coverage as I did but really only need 50% or so with diminishing returns after that (from what I’ve heard online)
I didn’t listen to the speakers before and after sound deadening to get a sense of the difference unfortunately. Doors are solid now even with the music blasting! I played a song that over emphasized the low mid bass region and my doors sounded like subwoofers lol. Lots of good mid bass. If you’re serious about good sounding music, definitely add sound deadening (and DSP 😉)
What’s the reason you used the closed cell foam on the back of the door panel? Noise reduction or just to avoid any squeaks or rubbing noises between the door panel and the window regulator?
Very nice video btw. Saved it to use when I install my speakers.
That’s right, used the foam to eliminate any rubbing noises between door panels. I’ve heard others had problems with rattling inside the door after installing better speakers. At the minimum, I would definitely recommend you treat the inner door card with sound deadening material.
Thanks and good luck on your install!
@@LazyMex I’m looking at the Jbl club 605csq components from crutchfield (2 1/16” mounting depth). Is it safe to assume I’ll also need the adaptor rings you used?
@@brianjachim7537 I was actually able to squeeze my speakers in without using the spacers. Otherwise the speakers were hitting the door panel and making noise. You should be fine.
nice video. I even upgraded much better speakers on my car, actual sound was not that better because stock stereo unit could only provide week power. My conclusion is, if I upgrade speakers, also need to upgrade more powerful amplifier.
Can you also add amplifier to the stock Maverick stereo? I think that video will be a big hit... Maybe adding subwoofer behind second back seat addition to that.
Agreed. Really do need an amplifier if you are installing high end speakers.
I installed a JL Audio VX1000/5i amplifier already. Max 4x75 watts rms and 1x600 watts rms to subwoofer. I can probably upload a video on how i mounted the amp and connecting to head unit wiring harness. Soldering already done so you won't see that type of detail.
Still working on how to install a subwoofer underneath rear seats. Right now I have a sub sitting behind the passenger seat.
Where did you get the foam to go around the speaker?
I used the excess foam from the doors to make the speaker rings. From resonix
do you have a link for the wire speaker adapter? and are the some type from rear and front adapter??
Front speaker wiring harness are Metra 72-5602. Can get them from Amazon or Crutchfield. Unsure on the rear speaker wiring harness
@@LazyMex many thanks comrade.
Video there really great I want to do that with my speakers but where is the second part of the video so we can hear what they sound like man And where did you get those speakers from and if you could tell me where did you order the stuff to make the cab more soundproof I would appreciate it
Thanks! I'll try to post part 2 soon.
I bought my speakers from: Crutchfield.com
The sound deadening material came from: resonixsoundsolutions.com/
(expensive stuff. there's other brands out there that are cheaper.)
Hey thanks for answering me where did you get the stuff to deaden the sound on the door
@@frankc4026 the brand is called resonix
resonixsoundsolutions.com/
There are cheaper options out there too like Dynomat, Second Skin, etc.
@@LazyMex are the other brands just as good though I mean more is one better than the other
And I forgot to ask you didn't make a difference in the truck
Beautiful install, I just got mine done and I gotta say yours is very clean and love that resonix your using. How big of a spacer did you have to use?
Do you by chance know the part number for the a pillar airbag tether?
Thanks! I was initially using a 1/2” spacer but found that the speaker was vibrating on the door panel. I was able to push the speaker inside without the use of the spacer (should have done that in the first place 🤦♂️) so now it sounds great.
Sorry, don’t know the part number.
@@LazyMex wow that's very impressive you were able to get that size speaker in there without a spacer! I love those k2's they sound beautiful, I had some flax in my f150 I loved as well. I wish they would have given us a little more room in these things lol
@@thagh0st809 I know! Thank god they fit because I was about to cut out the outer door panel to make them fit lol. I’ve also seen someone cut into that black panel piece not knowing it’s part of the window glass track 🫣
You should do a video on how you mounted your midbasses. I'm trying to figure out how you mounted them, I have massive spacer that are causing rattles and driving me crazy (1.5 spacer)
@@thagh0st809 I was able to mount my speakers without those spacers. They were also rattling my door panel.
How did you reinstall the top forward black triangular piece? I can't get my to reattach at the top. The two clips at the base super easy, but the top tab won't go back into the door slot... 😕
That top plastic tab gets warped fairly easily. My still goes into the top slot but there's a bit of a sag now. Unsure if that sag was present before i removed it.
Might need to reshape the tab piece with a blade to fit back into the slot?
You forgot the screw under the reflector. I know because I did the same thing today.
Yeah, I found that out a two years later on the forums! I need to make an update soon
How much would you charge to do this to my new Maverick
Swapping speakers takes like 10 mins. It’s the sound deadening part that’s time consuming! Probably a 3 hr job for the front doors. Man…idk. Maybe $200 in this summer heat. I think most shops charge $100-120/hr for labor.
for wire in the door I would have just drilled small hole and then sealed it after the wire was through.
Definitely recommend that. Would have been so much easier.
If you live south maybe.. but if you live up north.. you have to use the factory wires and plugs and try to find speakers that allow to be connected the same way the factory speakers were connected…. That means if the factory speakers had their connector inside, the aftermarket speakers must have their connectors inside. If you do not, if you put wires inside the doors behind the seals (where the window glass slide) the wires will oxidize and break and eventually will have to replaced which is annoying to do every year.. especially if that happen in the middle of the winter . Hard to work on wires when its 0 f degree and bellow. Depending which aftermarket speakers you bought, The best way is to dremel and swap the speakers in order to reuse the factory mount and factory wires and plug.
Thanks for that information!
Is that because moisture might get behind that panel and cause the oxidation? I do live in AZ which is very dry. Does using heat shrink tubing over the exposed wire reduce the risk of corrosion?
@@LazyMex some factory speakers do come with special plugs that are meant to go inside the panel that and they won't corrode.. thats why we like to dremmel the factory speaker to salvage the supporting mount that usually comes with those special plug. Shrink Tube won't stop from corrosion if the wire lead tip get that microscopic moisture and it will somehow.. over time it will turn green and it will break …oxidation will spread just like cancer. Best is to have all the connections inside behind the first plastic panel.. just like the factory setup was. I don,t live in AZ.. i suppose it it won't be as bad as for us living up north.
@@reefgratos2035 I'll remember that for future installs, thanks!
the only thing that drove me nuts is it is not "Fo-Cal" like "So-Cal"..it's ."Focal" like "focal point" otherwise great video man!!
Lol someone else told me the same thing but I’ve heard others pronounce it that way too. They’re made in France so I’ll need to check how they say it 😅 oh well.. Thanks!!
@@LazyMex they probably say "Les So-cal" :-)
For anyone else to learn from my mistake: At 6:07, the door handle doesn't "just pop straight out". There's a push clip that needs to be undone. I made the mistake of just trying to "pop it straight out" and the clip broke and the part is backordered. No matter what I tried to do the clip won't stay on, not with zip ties or anything and now I have a driver's side inner door handle that doesn't work and no replacement part in sight.
Damn, sorry to hear that. I learned later how that door handle actually comes off and on.
Use a 2 part epoxy, sold at dollar tree, or any home center for 10x more. The plastic will be the weak link after you glue it back and it cures.
Where is the crossover?
Running active crossover with a DSP
Lol why didn’t you just drill a hole for the wires 😂
Fine....as long as I dont have to listen to your music, I promise you wont have to listen to mine. Have a good day
It's "Focal" not "foe-cal". Also, you should not wear great sweat pants if you don't have a package to show off. How pathetic.
It's Foe-cal. It's French, you uncultured swine.