Right on Kevin your neighbour is blessed to have you as a neighbour! I appreciate you showing the difference between the English and American Ferguson. I was told a long time ago that there’s something about the oil pumps that can cause a problem but I can’t remember exactly what that was maybe a shear pin that goes on the pump or something? But yes I agree about the plugs a friend of mine told me that if I went with auto lights instead of champion I wouldn’t have as many as problems and he was right in my experience. It’s amazing how amperage and voltages and heat and carbon can make a difference in the engine.
I’m with you 100% mate. I had the SAME thing with my TE20 last week. Before I removed fuel tanks, drilled for vacuum gauge points, removed the rocker cover, exhaust manifold, compression testing etc, I would have checked for four good sparks. I did - and that was my problem (well, cleanliness and alignment of ignition points was). One hour, and we were running down my field, running sweet as a not.
Hey Kevin, after about 40 hours of labor, I finally got my 48 TE running! But just like your buddies here, mine does something very similar. Runs ok until it warms up then sputters out and dies. I’m thinking now that they put it away 20 years ago because it had a oil leak that they didn’t want to fool with. Anyway, I think it’s just tired and needs the head redone… I’d love your hear thoughts!
Its either running out of fuel or something is getting hot (high resistance) and starving the ignition of current. But my bet is the fuel side. Easy test is put a hose on the outlet of the fuel bulb and open it up into a jerry can or something. You should get a good stream of fuel that doesn't stop til the tank is empty. Most of the running problems with these old things usually end up being caused by poor fuel flow. Also try running it on a remote supply . completely take your tank and plumbing ot of the equation. My battles with this TE20 went on long after this video was shot. We had a Land of Almost Fits carburetor and the original. Finally after so long it is running great on the original carb. If you have one of those aluminum replacement carbs, launch it. The originals are the only ones that seem to work.
I noticed on the top of the Battery these symbolism's, Something about sparks around a battery. Your sparkplug grounding point appears to be a bit close to the battery at 8:25 in the video.
I have a 48 TE 20 with a z120 engine and a Ford distributor....not Delco or Lucas.....same points, condenser ,cap and rotor as a 52 8n with side mount distributor. ..runs great but was surprised at the parts house when I bought tune up stuff . Alot of plugs are made in China now ...not surprised you had bad ones.
I have a 49' TO-20 from my research they're basically the same as a TE-20. I'm watching all your videos for this TE-20 to see if I can resolve my problem. Mine will immediately start if I spray either into the carb but as soon as the fuel is exastasted (2-4 sec). For those few seconds it runs great. I think there is some problem with gas uptake to the cylinders. I'm struggling to figure this out. If you see this comment and direct me to a video or place for me to find some help.
First thing I would try is a remote fuel source IE bypass the tank. make something from an old water bottle or something to feed fuel direct to the carb. If it still does the same thing check the inlet elbow on the carb. If its the right one it should have a screen on it. make sure the screen is clear. If it still does it after that you need to go through the carb. There are plenty of Marvel carb how to's on YT. And make sure its the right one, should be a TSX361.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I removed and thoroughly cleaned the carburetor, I'm refitting the original gas bulb filter. The 90 deg tank fitting is original but the screen is missing. I think there is an issue with the electronics to the coil cause it's hotter than a firecracker, I am researching that now. It doesn't use the neutral start mechanism on the block. I may be over my head? I'm pretty mechanically inclined for a 66 yr old grandma but, I WILL figure this out. Thank you so much for your response and help.
@@MynewTennesseeHome It is natural for the coil to get hot if the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the ignition is good enough to fire it, it should be good enough to run it. My bet is still a carb/fuel issue.
Been watching more and more of your vid's and really wanted to take the time to tell you how I appreciate your skill in diagnosing these issues. Fun watching you go through it and I think a lot of people can learn from it. Thank you for putting it out there. I am wondering if this spark plug issue was a production run issue? That was really odd. As a side, I see you have a Neon you run in stock cars. I used to race, too, but that was sports car. If you want to call a Fiesta a sports car. Lol. Was involved with it in one form or another for 30 years. My payment to the boss after all of that is a small farm. Heck! If Jim Clark can do sheep, I can do goats! That led me to vintage tractors and equipment. I do not have any ferguson's yet, but I do not rule a MF 135 at some point. Currently, I have a '50 8n and a '54 NAA, which serve me well. I do see you occaisionally on FB, too, in the Ford tractor groups. Small community I guess. Keep up the good work and take care!
I've got a 1949 ferguson with the Standard engine. On light duties short reach are fine, but in working with a cultivator it'd start to miss beats and loose power. Once I'd removed the plugs and cleaned them normal running was resumed, for a while. Regards from 🇬🇧 👍
@@09amusement You could keep your short plugs but go up one or 2 heat ranges. My TEA will foul #3 once in a blue moon but hasn't done it in years (touch wood). My neighbour had no complaints about this TE fouling plugs, it just wouldn't run.
Right on Kevin your neighbour is blessed to have you as a neighbour! I appreciate you showing the difference between the English and American Ferguson. I was told a long time ago that there’s something about the oil pumps that can cause a problem but I can’t remember exactly what that was maybe a shear pin that goes on the pump or something? But yes I agree about the plugs a friend of mine told me that if I went with auto lights instead of champion I wouldn’t have as many as problems and he was right in my experience. It’s amazing how amperage and voltages and heat and carbon can make a difference in the engine.
Good troubleshooting video - thanks. Didn’t expect the plugs to be bad, Spark is one of the first things I check
I had checked for spark previously when I was at his place using an inline spark tester which showed continuity. This was an odd one.
I’m with you 100% mate. I had the SAME thing with my TE20 last week. Before I removed fuel tanks, drilled for vacuum gauge points, removed the rocker cover, exhaust manifold, compression testing etc, I would have checked for four good sparks. I did - and that was my problem (well, cleanliness and alignment of ignition points was). One hour, and we were running down my field, running sweet as a not.
I have Ferguson memories from growing up on a farm, also Fords.
Good informational video, For the info. The Continental Z120 Engine in the Ferguson TO and TE20. The oil filter is up thru the bottom of the oil pan.
Really enjoyed how detailed you are .
Thank you.
Good, informative video - with some tidbits on the different engines. Thanks for posting.
My pleasure!
Hey Kevin, after about 40 hours of labor, I finally got my 48 TE running! But just like your buddies here, mine does something very similar. Runs ok until it warms up then sputters out and dies. I’m thinking now that they put it away 20 years ago because it had a oil leak that they didn’t want to fool with.
Anyway, I think it’s just tired and needs the head redone… I’d love your hear thoughts!
It’s got spark in all plugs although it’s more orange than blue. Each cylinder has about 85-90 lbs compression…
Its either running out of fuel or something is getting hot (high resistance) and starving the ignition of current. But my bet is the fuel side. Easy test is put a hose on the outlet of the fuel bulb and open it up into a jerry can or something. You should get a good stream of fuel that doesn't stop til the tank is empty. Most of the running problems with these old things usually end up being caused by poor fuel flow. Also try running it on a remote supply . completely take your tank and plumbing ot of the equation. My battles with this TE20 went on long after this video was shot. We had a Land of Almost Fits carburetor and the original. Finally after so long it is running great on the original carb. If you have one of those aluminum replacement carbs, launch it. The originals are the only ones that seem to work.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Thank you!! I’ll give those ideas a try. Seemed to me the fuel was good but I’m a better drummer than I am a mechanic 👍
@@EWDrums Best of luck with it!
That exhaust manifold looks like the surface of the moon... or worse!
I noticed on the top of the Battery these symbolism's, Something about sparks around a battery. Your sparkplug grounding point appears to be a bit close to the battery at 8:25 in the video.
Thanks, good point.
I have a 48 TE 20 with a z120 engine and a Ford distributor....not Delco or Lucas.....same points, condenser ,cap and rotor as a 52 8n with side mount distributor.
..runs great but was surprised at the parts house when I bought tune up stuff . Alot of plugs are made in China now ...not surprised you had bad ones.
Apparently, the Ford dist is a drop in on Z120s. Somebody else told me the same thing.
the old pink lodge are gooooood
I have a 49' TO-20 from my research they're basically the same as a TE-20. I'm watching all your videos for this TE-20 to see if I can resolve my problem. Mine will immediately start if I spray either into the carb but as soon as the fuel is exastasted (2-4 sec). For those few seconds it runs great. I think there is some problem with gas uptake to the cylinders. I'm struggling to figure this out. If you see this comment and direct me to a video or place for me to find some help.
First thing I would try is a remote fuel source IE bypass the tank. make something from an old water bottle or something to feed fuel direct to the carb. If it still does the same thing check the inlet elbow on the carb. If its the right one it should have a screen on it. make sure the screen is clear. If it still does it after that you need to go through the carb. There are plenty of Marvel carb how to's on YT. And make sure its the right one, should be a TSX361.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I removed and thoroughly cleaned the carburetor, I'm refitting the original gas bulb filter. The 90 deg tank fitting is original but the screen is missing. I think there is an issue with the electronics to the coil cause it's hotter than a firecracker, I am researching that now. It doesn't use the neutral start mechanism on the block. I may be over my head? I'm pretty mechanically inclined for a 66 yr old grandma but, I WILL figure this out. Thank you so much for your response and help.
@@MynewTennesseeHome It is natural for the coil to get hot if the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the ignition is good enough to fire it, it should be good enough to run it. My bet is still a carb/fuel issue.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Thankyou so much!
Would love to see a vid of how you age. Down the lights on the front and how to pack the wires neat
I have an upcoming wiring video, Stay tuned !
Been watching more and more of your vid's and really wanted to take the time to tell you how I appreciate your skill in diagnosing these issues. Fun watching you go through it and I think a lot of people can learn from it. Thank you for putting it out there. I am wondering if this spark plug issue was a production run issue? That was really odd. As a side, I see you have a Neon you run in stock cars. I used to race, too, but that was sports car. If you want to call a Fiesta a sports car. Lol. Was involved with it in one form or another for 30 years. My payment to the boss after all of that is a small farm. Heck! If Jim Clark can do sheep, I can do goats! That led me to vintage tractors and equipment. I do not have any ferguson's yet, but I do not rule a MF 135 at some point. Currently, I have a '50 8n and a '54 NAA, which serve me well. I do see you occaisionally on FB, too, in the Ford tractor groups. Small community I guess. Keep up the good work and take care!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for supporting our channel. As far as the spark plugs, its something that I find baffling.
I had stuck fully advanced weights in the distributor on a Massey Harris 22 acted the same way
That's the continental engine.
you are correct. It is a Z120
Use long reach plugs. Short reach plugs will quickly soot up again due to spark shielding and not burning clean. Long reach plugs will burn clean.
Understood. These plugs were not sooted or fouled. They were simply dead. Open circuit. i don't anticipate any further issues.
I've got a 1949 ferguson with the Standard engine. On light duties short reach are fine, but in working with a cultivator it'd start to miss beats and loose power. Once I'd removed the plugs and cleaned them normal running was resumed, for a while. Regards from 🇬🇧 👍
@@09amusement You could keep your short plugs but go up one or 2 heat ranges. My TEA will foul #3 once in a blue moon but hasn't done it in years (touch wood). My neighbour had no complaints about this TE fouling plugs, it just wouldn't run.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage modern fuel ⛽ does not help either. We have 10% ethanol in our petrol (gasoline) now. In a word... Shit.
@@09amusement We still have ethanol free gas for now.
look at 48 TEA 6 volt oil filtet
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