So stoked that you are molding the kit, gonna be awesome to watch that progress. Makes me miss my SF5 Forester project so much watching the older Subaru projects!
I did a full on restomod like this on my gc a couple years ago. Down to bare shell and every single part brand new. Cant wait to watch your journey as i had a blast for about 8 months working on it. Now i have a 450whp beautiful gc:)
@@Smeediaif ya going to be working on all these old subies, an induction heater might be a good investment for all these stuck bolts. Especially the Jesus bolt.
1:23 Dope!!!! I am sooo excited!!!! Please do the last coat or 2 of the top color coat with the body assembled. Your pearl may not line up properly of it is done seperate. I am so excited to see this done!!
As for the rear suspension and working on it... I have a couple of special tools for that "jesus bolt": - 10in solid steel 1/2 dia rod (I use to drive the "jesus bolt" out) - impact drill/chisel (I use to knock the jesus bolt out with the hammer mech, not the spin option) - small torch (medium heat, not welding torch)
@@Smeedia I just had to deal with the Jesus bolt and uh.... Oxyacetylene didn't work either. Drilling did fuck all.... Ended up going to Pick n Pull and found Forester Rear Knuckles that matched... So I just swapped the entire assembly lmao. Edit: It also broke my first breaker bar. Then I pulled out my big boy 3/4" Breaker with a 5 foot cheater pipe on it and definitely didn't shear both heads off :) . But yeah
I was ready to fight those on my OBS but they pretty much spun right out. It was the body end bolts on the trailing arms that gave me unexpected trouble and ended up getting the chop, and one of the captive nuts for the subframe bolts came loose and that became it's own special project
When you replace the subframe bushings you should drop an IG post with some part numbers. I couldn't for the life of me find the correct ones for the subframe itself.
Remember at the start of this project I suggested shipping that bad boy off for a chemical dip/acid bath to strip down to the metal. I know it's some extra cash but there's no way in hell you can get into all those cracks and crevices without the chemical dip, especially if you want to keep this long-term and do it up right.
@@Smeedia there's a video of 3S Chemicals for example, out in Pennsylvania from 2 years ago. Said they charge right around $2,400. Some other shops around the country it might be worthwhile to just have the car shipped there or delivered and drop it off yourself and do some promotions or work on some customer cars while you're out in a different city state.
Did the same on my Impreza L-STI, stripped to bare shell to replace every single bolt and part to brand new since all the old stuff had over 400k miles on it
So pumped for this car! Excited to see how much you have learned from the rx7 combining what you already know about subarus. Best build yet incoming 🤙🤙
Oh ya I’ve lost many a good axle to the rust siezing them together. And having access to a press I decided to press it out and save it… just save your self the time and get the torch. Cut all the bolts off and replace everything. I have a 85 rx turbo. The rear basically fell apart after torching the bolts off. And I just cut the axles.
Trust me don’t mold do internal hardware so you don’t see it. No matter what you do with molding it’ll always fall apart and your redoing your work. also weld a nut to whatever broken bolts yah see honestly the best bolt extractor
@@Smeediamold never holds up to the test of time and vibration no matter what you do. And on top of that heat and cold adds to the mess and filler and even fiber glass doesn’t like that over time and fragile that’s my 2 cents though if it’s gonna be a garage/ show car and hardly driven I guess it could work but I’ve never seen a molded kit hold up 🤷🏽♂️ is it crazy clean yes just an utter pain for the work
Hidden hardware you get kinda the best of both worlds is it harder to get figured out yes but at least it’s not redoing your hard work if something happens yah Know. Once it starts to crack you’ll be redoing it type crap if you want to do it right. Filler is also only supposed to be 1/4 thick. This isn’t to knock you down in anyway before I Joined the body business I was all about it then I got in and I was like hell no
@@Smeediaand paint is all about the prep literally anyone can learn how to spray but what’s the car look like 6 months from now when it’s completed flashed and leveled out. Can you see edges of primer/ mapping of layers of paint scratches that were missed but you can see now after the paints sunk back things to think about when doing molded. Now you do a metal wide body “molded kit” like @ryankraws now your in a different realm
man I can feel the dread when you reiterate what you are about to do by the amount of times you restate what you need to do. lol. much love an respect as always though. you are doing what most wont. I appreciate your content as always
This build is literally the dream haha. I do have a couple of questions about chassis strengthening: 1). Are you planning to do any seam welding to the car? 2). Are you planning on filling the frame rails with polyurethane? I've heard they're good for restoring/increasing chassis rigidity and wanted to know what you think :)
@@Smeedia I saw a video of a complete build and the owner filled the frame rails with polyurethane. He said it increased chassis rigidity and acted as sound deadening. It was a couple years ago so I'm having a hard time finding the video. I'll link it in another comment for you :)
Hey tanner, do a quick search and see if anyone near you does media blasting for the rs. It makes everything much faster and you'll spend less on sand paper and ice for your joints
For inside the frame rails, Eastwood has an aerosol can with a LOONG flexible straw specifically for spraying inside frame rails.... I've used it on my gd and there is plenty of product... Iirc I only used 1 can... And i think I got it all heavily covered...
Should’ve left the roof in to make the mold for the carbon roof. I just for the sake of your sanity the carbon roof won’t be warped when you attempt to panel bond back onto the car. By cutting off the roof, you may have unfortunately twisted the roof.
Not sure if you plan on using RaptorLiner for the undercoating (can't remember if you used it on the RX7) but be careful with that shiz!! Make sure you're in a WELL ventilated area. I've heard horror stories of people using/applying that stuff to whatever and not waking up the next morning...🙃 Besides that, can't wait for this build! You're gonna make me want to do the same thing in the future hahah. Keep these vids comin'! Stay safe brotha! 🦾
Should probably weld some type of bar or other stock inside the channels (below the roof line). It'll help stop flex from cracking the roof, and also protect my favorite youtuber. 😁
beyond exited for this build! I get to live vicariously through your videos as i've always wanted to do a build like this! Cheers to you for taking it on!
I did a full suspension rebuild on my 03 Forester suspension all around and it was nightmarish. Might be because it had 260k miles, but it definitely sucked
What color? Satin black with lower door sections metal flake w candy yellow and candy rootbeer over coat, possibly white stansition line would really stand out
Nope! Handful of people! Still ironing out the details but I think we are around the $1600ish price point right now with the included panel bonds to install it. Just working on the details and over head still 🫡
when i did my trans swap recently i had the same issue with one corner seized so it wouldnt move so i ended up leaving that in place and slid the diff out instead and then just slid the diff back onto the cv in that corner haha idk what ill do when that cv goes or if i need to pull the suspension out from that corner
I really don't believe that wire wheeling is the most effective way, wouldn't using a 120 grit disc just eliminate any possibility? Or sand blasting? I mean wire wheeling should be good enough but if you can just grind past it all, right? Obviously not thinning the material out.
@@Smeedia a place to share already made open source tunes, so another person can download it to a cobb, if it exists lol. seems dumb to me that id be the 40th person going into a shop with 800 cad in my hand for a downpipe and intake legacy gt, if i can get a tune from another guy who had the same stuff and made/bought a tune 3 years ago and posted it
I poop it out 😭 For the most part almost everything I make goes back into the channel. So I don’t really make any money. The company has it all 😂 But fixing other cars and a couple other revenue streams 🫡
@@jklololol9691 totally different business models. His car part purchases are directly inflating his revenue stream as it provides content which directly increases his income. Your car part purchases directly decrease your income and provide zero revenue stream back to you..
Nice progress. As you continue to do more restorations, it's just gonna get easier & quicker turn around once you get your groove. Incoming tangent, nothing against you. When people say "rear fender" and "front quarter" that really irks me on a deep level. Maybe it's just because I'm older, almost 40, but in my day if you said fender it referred to the front of the car, and quarter panel referred to the rear of the car. Actually scratch that, I just recalled a particularly rough interaction I had back in the day when I worked a call center for resto parts. I wound up getting this Canadian dude on the phone doing a massive sheet metal order for his Chevelle, shipped up to I shit you not literally the North Pole, not only that but it was trans continental from east to west coast-ish. The dude sounded hammered, and he was giving me names of the parts he was looking to get as opposed to supplying the exact part numbers, this is important later. He did the thing with mixing up the terminology, I forget which way the mixup went exactly like if he wanted a fender but I input a quarter or whatever. In any event we send over an email with the invoice, including part # & description, and the shipping quote for approval before the order is processed. He okay'd it. Fast forward a few weeks and he's calling up RIPSHIT pissed, threatening to sue the company, the whole nine yards. I don't remember exactly how that one resolved but I think it was a compromise or we washed our hands and ate the cost of the part in a refund... and fwiw the markup on this stuff was insane so we really didn't lose anything aside from pure profit. I'm just spitballing but if the thing was $300 retail we were paying like $40 on it from the factory. And thanks for listening to my TED talk. Next week I'll discuss how the Better Business Bureau is a scam and how you can pay them to have an A+ rating.
FINALLLY SOME DORA CONTENT AGAIN!
Keep it coming.
DORA DA DA DA DA DORA!
So stoked for this series! I literally just picked up a GC8 a few days ago, wish I could restore it to this level. Can’t wait to see more
It’s a masssive amount of work to go this deep into them 😅 but start with small projects here and there on it!
"POGERS" I think you just found what the license plate is going to say
Lmao down for that 😂
Between the FD and this, I'm getting quite motivated to completely strip my SVX this winter to refresh the whole thing... 🤔🤔
Send it 😈😈 save the SVX!
Nothing more satisfying than seeing a car fully stripped down and rebuilt fresh. You get dirt on your face every time 😂
Dude today I looked like I came out of a coal mine 😂
Love the idea of a 22B build, I’ve gotten back into my childhood love a wrx’s and WRC. I recently bought a 24, Love all this content
So stoked that you are molding the kit, gonna be awesome to watch that progress. Makes me miss my SF5 Forester project so much watching the older Subaru projects!
This will be my first time molding so exciting to give my hand a try at it 🥳
Absolutely enjoy seeing 90s imprezas getting restored correctly!! Well done can't wait to see final results.
Gotta save the ones we still can 💪
I love gd's but this is going to be my favourite build you have done
Hyped to see this thing fully done 🎉 especially after seeing how the FD came out 😍
I did a full on restomod like this on my gc a couple years ago. Down to bare shell and every single part brand new. Cant wait to watch your journey as i had a blast for about 8 months working on it. Now i have a 450whp beautiful gc:)
Ohhhh love to hear it! Bringing these things back is definitely a labor of love 🥳
Brings a smile every time I watch your videos. 😊
i would be so happy, if mine 2.5RS had so little rust. that makes doing projects so much faster.
Fastest click of my life
Same bro same
My mans getting quicker!
@@Smeediaif ya going to be working on all these old subies, an induction heater might be a good investment for all these stuck bolts. Especially the Jesus bolt.
Damn... I couldn't get here in time 😂😂
Probably the best that car has looked in yrs already
FR 😂
Loving the glasses and promoting eye ball safety.
Safety spectacles😅
22B! Let's go Tanner! 🔥🔥🔥
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Stellar Job bro! I love every second of it. Thanks for streaming and sharing! Awesome!
Always appreciate the support my mans 🫶
The Rx-7 was Star Trek, The 22B is Star Wars.
Beam me up Scotty, we have darth vader to fight
I'm amazed with just how far you are going to do this properly. Can't wait to see where this goes
👀 going wide body?!! He'll yeah!
Smeedia FTW!!
Yessir 💪
Carbon roof with sunroof delete = 🔥 🔥
It’s the only way 💪
I hope you can film the shop next door making your carbon roof
1:23 Dope!!!! I am sooo excited!!!! Please do the last coat or 2 of the top color coat with the body assembled. Your pearl may not line up properly of it is done seperate. I am so excited to see this done!!
Looking forward to this build!
As for the rear suspension and working on it... I have a couple of special tools for that "jesus bolt":
- 10in solid steel 1/2 dia rod (I use to drive the "jesus bolt" out)
- impact drill/chisel (I use to knock the jesus bolt out with the hammer mech, not the spin option)
- small torch (medium heat, not welding torch)
PS when ya get good with this method.... 30sec is about all that bolt will hassle you. A good plug-in Impact Chisel will knock that suck loose fast.
I broke one of my breaker bars on that bolt so next time I’ll give this a try 😅
@@Smeedia I just had to deal with the Jesus bolt and uh.... Oxyacetylene didn't work either. Drilling did fuck all.... Ended up going to Pick n Pull and found Forester Rear Knuckles that matched... So I just swapped the entire assembly lmao.
Edit: It also broke my first breaker bar. Then I pulled out my big boy 3/4" Breaker with a 5 foot cheater pipe on it and definitely didn't shear both heads off :) . But yeah
I was ready to fight those on my OBS but they pretty much spun right out. It was the body end bolts on the trailing arms that gave me unexpected trouble and ended up getting the chop, and one of the captive nuts for the subframe bolts came loose and that became it's own special project
Keen for this to start coming together
Only gets better from here 🎉
It would be fun to see you and AMMONYC do a video detailing the 22B when the paints on, he would be able to hep you out with polishing and detailing
This build is going to be epic. Keep up the amazing work man 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Goddamnit! I was just trying to put on some tunes for my shower and then see a Smeedia 22B vid post.
lol perfect timing 😂😅
Can’t wait to see more of this build!!!
LETS GOOOO!! My favorite part of a build...the teardown!
Tear down always a fun time 🥳
When you replace the subframe bushings you should drop an IG post with some part numbers. I couldn't for the life of me find the correct ones for the subframe itself.
Cavity wax will definitely help with future rust prevention as well!
Remember at the start of this project I suggested shipping that bad boy off for a chemical dip/acid bath to strip down to the metal. I know it's some extra cash but there's no way in hell you can get into all those cracks and crevices without the chemical dip, especially if you want to keep this long-term and do it up right.
Unfortunately it’s just not financially possible. One shop 6 hours away that can do it with no predicted lead times and north of $5,500
@@Smeedia $5,500 is way overpriced. What city is closest to where you’re shop is located?
@@Smeedia there's a video of 3S Chemicals for example, out in Pennsylvania from 2 years ago. Said they charge right around $2,400. Some other shops around the country it might be worthwhile to just have the car shipped there or delivered and drop it off yourself and do some promotions or work on some customer cars while you're out in a different city state.
I wanna see you rebuild a wrecked sti or wrx❤ would be lovely to see
Did the same on my Impreza L-STI, stripped to bare shell to replace every single bolt and part to brand new since all the old stuff had over 400k miles on it
Seriously contemplated a carbon fiber roof after you mentioned it, but that looks like a mission!
It’s definitely a commitment 😅
So pumped for this car! Excited to see how much you have learned from the rx7 combining what you already know about subarus. Best build yet incoming 🤙🤙
Stoaked for how this one is going to come out 🥳
Oh ya I’ve lost many a good axle to the rust siezing them together. And having access to a press I decided to press it out and save it… just save your self the time and get the torch. Cut all the bolts off and replace everything. I have a 85 rx turbo. The rear basically fell apart after torching the bolts off. And I just cut the axles.
Everything’s getting replaced back there on this one. Rust can be an absolutely wild natural glue 😂
Rear lat bolt or god bolt is like a consumable. even after replacing it oem new, the next time I removed it had to replace.
I’ve learned the same, just replace them every time 😂
Trust me don’t mold do internal hardware so you don’t see it. No matter what you do with molding it’ll always fall apart and your redoing your work. also weld a nut to whatever broken bolts yah see honestly the best bolt extractor
Why hidden hardware over mold?
@@Smeediamold never holds up to the test of time and vibration no matter what you do. And on top of that heat and cold adds to the mess and filler and even fiber glass doesn’t like that over time and fragile that’s my 2 cents though if it’s gonna be a garage/ show car and hardly driven I guess it could work but I’ve never seen a molded kit hold up 🤷🏽♂️ is it crazy clean yes just an utter pain for the work
Hidden hardware you get kinda the best of both worlds is it harder to get figured out yes but at least it’s not redoing your hard work if something happens yah Know. Once it starts to crack you’ll be redoing it type crap if you want to do it right. Filler is also only supposed to be 1/4 thick. This isn’t to knock you down in anyway before I Joined the body business I was all about it then I got in and I was like hell no
@@Smeediaand paint is all about the prep literally anyone can learn how to spray but what’s the car look like 6 months from now when it’s completed flashed and leveled out. Can you see edges of primer/ mapping of layers of paint scratches that were missed but you can see now after the paints sunk back things to think about when doing molded. Now you do a metal wide body “molded kit” like @ryankraws now your in a different realm
Great video as always 👍
Thanks buddy 🥳
man I can feel the dread when you reiterate what you are about to do by the amount of times you restate what you need to do. lol. much love an respect as always though. you are doing what most wont. I appreciate your content as always
This build is literally the dream haha. I do have a couple of questions about chassis strengthening:
1). Are you planning to do any seam welding to the car?
2). Are you planning on filling the frame rails with polyurethane?
I've heard they're good for restoring/increasing chassis rigidity and wanted to know what you think :)
I will be doing some stick welding in some areas on the chassis 🫡
I’ve never heard of doing that before but I’ll definitely do some reading into it!
@@Smeedia I saw a video of a complete build and the owner filled the frame rails with polyurethane. He said it increased chassis rigidity and acted as sound deadening. It was a couple years ago so I'm having a hard time finding the video. I'll link it in another comment for you :)
Hey tanner, do a quick search and see if anyone near you does media blasting for the rs. It makes everything much faster and you'll spend less on sand paper and ice for your joints
Excited for this!
For inside the frame rails, Eastwood has an aerosol can with a LOONG flexible straw specifically for spraying inside frame rails.... I've used it on my gd and there is plenty of product... Iirc I only used 1 can... And i think I got it all heavily covered...
Let's GO!
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Should’ve left the roof in to make the mold for the carbon roof. I just for the sake of your sanity the carbon roof won’t be warped when you attempt to panel bond back onto the car. By cutting off the roof, you may have unfortunately twisted the roof.
I had to cut out the rear suspension parallel arms and trailing arms because of that foot long bolt,
YES, THANK YOU
No no no, thank you!
Great Scott!
They took everything but the frame 😭
That’s all we need 😭😅
Try dry ice for all your sound deadening I saw a video and it peels it right off with little to no sticky glue left behind
Tried that with the FD and the results were very lack luster. Not worth it IMO for the price 🫡
Not sure if you plan on using RaptorLiner for the undercoating (can't remember if you used it on the RX7) but be careful with that shiz!! Make sure you're in a WELL ventilated area. I've heard horror stories of people using/applying that stuff to whatever and not waking up the next morning...🙃 Besides that, can't wait for this build! You're gonna make me want to do the same thing in the future hahah. Keep these vids comin'! Stay safe brotha! 🦾
We are using actual under costing from Eastwood this time. That raptor liner stuff is bad on fumes! Used it on the RX7 💀
@@Smeedia Daamn! Ok yeah just makin sure!
Keep up the good work ❤
Should u use the fuel system cleaner on FA20DIT?
Yessir you most definitely can 🫡
This is going to be awesome
Yes!!
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Should probably weld some type of bar or other stock inside the channels (below the roof line). It'll help stop flex from cracking the roof, and also protect my favorite youtuber. 😁
Still regret not buying a new 2.5rs in 2000
If only we knew back then what we know now
surprised you went with WRB. figured you would do something different and less typical.
Amazing
🫶🫶🫶
@@Smeedia we all have been waiting so long for this lol
How would a BATTERY IN THE BOOT work for this project ??
Battery will be in the boot 🫡 I just wanted an OE looking bay 😅
Are you using the “02C” paint code WR Blue or a different iteration?
Unfortunately no it is K7X the newer WRB
beyond exited for this build! I get to live vicariously through your videos as i've always wanted to do a build like this! Cheers to you for taking it on!
Always appreciate the support my mans 🫶
After doing one of these style builds I’m hooked. They’re so much more enjoyable.
strongly agreeing! This one is too the moon!!!! Dibs when you sell this one.
V7 207
V7 207
if you need inspiration and come down to the bay area you can drive my full swapped coupe, and you will see
I’m late but I am here
Better late than never 🫶
that wheel spacer must have weighed a ton loool
Thing was heavy apparently 😂
I did a full suspension rebuild on my 03 Forester suspension all around and it was nightmarish. Might be because it had 260k miles, but it definitely sucked
What color?
Satin black with lower door sections metal flake w candy yellow and candy rootbeer over coat, possibly white stansition line would really stand out
Wow working fast! Is this a customer car or a channel build?
This one is mine 🫡 I have a white one that’s a customers that is just getting swapped.
I assume i was the only guy interested in a group buy lol?
Nope! Handful of people! Still ironing out the details but I think we are around the $1600ish price point right now with the included panel bonds to install it. Just working on the details and over head still 🫡
Did you buy that iwata spray gun yet? Makes a huge difference
Swiper, no swiping x3, is he gone? 😂
I've heard you say in some videos that you are working on a "customers" car. How does one get in contact to have a car built by you?
Shoot me an email 🫡
Tannerwrx525@gmail.com
when i did my trans swap recently i had the same issue with one corner seized so it wouldnt move so i ended up leaving that in place and slid the diff out instead and then just slid the diff back onto the cv in that corner haha
idk what ill do when that cv goes or if i need to pull the suspension out from that corner
You might want to make/buy a car rotisserie 🤷🏻♂️
My neighbors have one I can use if we need 😅
Where do you get your zinc plating done? I’m also in WA
I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the map, I’M THE MAP
you’re welcome
YAYYYYYYY
Pawgers 😅
This is really pawgers🤓
i want myh gc to turn out as good as yours! so herni
Right now it ain’t looking so hot for kind. But in due time 😅
😎👍🏻👍🏻
TOMMMM MY MANS!
Who is Levi?!
🎉🎉🎉
Buddy who swing sober every now and then 😅 he’s up here for work right now 🫡
Would I need a tune if I switched my 2014 wrx too equal length headers? Also what would be a good brand for equal length headers?
Where did you send the bolts out to get zinc plated?
Novation inc 🫡
Oh damn. Still thinkin media blast the b
We don’t have the means for that 😅
Walnuts and baking soda bia lol
Get air tools. Hutchins air file is a life saver.
I really don't believe that wire wheeling is the most effective way, wouldn't using a 120 grit disc just eliminate any possibility? Or sand blasting? I mean wire wheeling should be good enough but if you can just grind past it all, right? Obviously not thinning the material out.
You're gunna hate me. My GG9 has 410,000km on it. I can slide that bolt out of there with my fingers.
I’m actually jealous 😂
Could you do a video on how to find pre made open source subaru tunes? like a guy who already has the same mods as me who uploaded his tune map?
Like trying to use someone else’s tune?
@@Smeedia a place to share already made open source tunes, so another person can download it to a cobb, if it exists lol. seems dumb to me that id be the 40th person going into a shop with 800 cad in my hand for a downpipe and intake legacy gt, if i can get a tune from another guy who had the same stuff and made/bought a tune 3 years ago and posted it
How are you going to attach the carbon roof?
Panel bond, rivits and seam sealer
@@SmeediaI thought you couldn't drill holes in carbon fiber without risking the overall integrity of the piece?
@@camrongoodall you don't. Carbon panels are pretty much glued to the vehicle.
Can you say hazme un sándwich? That means make me a sandwich in Spanish. Best intro ever
What kinda sandwich we talking here? 👀
It’s gotta be a New Yorker. Nothing beats a corned beef pastrami sandwich.
Bumpity bump.
Yoo that bolt mfin suck bro. I was adding lateral arms and dude. I was there for a while but thank to Diablo blade and me bang and bang with a hammer
Hola 🎉
Hola!
Will you ever mess around with the ez30 motor?
Maybe one day but no immediate plans
What brand are your glasses?????
Kroger special 😂
Know all to well about the impossible bolt..
That one bolt is the bane of every Subaru owners existence 😂
The forever bolts suck!
Those two bolts have a special place in hell 😂😅
Quick question where the fuck does your money come from??? 😂😂😂 asking for a friend
I poop it out 😭
For the most part almost everything I make goes back into the channel. So I don’t really make any money. The company has it all 😂
But fixing other cars and a couple other revenue streams 🫡
My broke ass waiting 3 pay checks to buy a car part I add them up until I got all the parts for what I’m working on then do it 😂😂😂
@@jklololol9691 totally different business models. His car part purchases are directly inflating his revenue stream as it provides content which directly increases his income. Your car part purchases directly decrease your income and provide zero revenue stream back to you..
Nice progress. As you continue to do more restorations, it's just gonna get easier & quicker turn around once you get your groove.
Incoming tangent, nothing against you. When people say "rear fender" and "front quarter" that really irks me on a deep level. Maybe it's just because I'm older, almost 40, but in my day if you said fender it referred to the front of the car, and quarter panel referred to the rear of the car.
Actually scratch that, I just recalled a particularly rough interaction I had back in the day when I worked a call center for resto parts. I wound up getting this Canadian dude on the phone doing a massive sheet metal order for his Chevelle, shipped up to I shit you not literally the North Pole, not only that but it was trans continental from east to west coast-ish. The dude sounded hammered, and he was giving me names of the parts he was looking to get as opposed to supplying the exact part numbers, this is important later.
He did the thing with mixing up the terminology, I forget which way the mixup went exactly like if he wanted a fender but I input a quarter or whatever. In any event we send over an email with the invoice, including part # & description, and the shipping quote for approval before the order is processed. He okay'd it. Fast forward a few weeks and he's calling up RIPSHIT pissed, threatening to sue the company, the whole nine yards.
I don't remember exactly how that one resolved but I think it was a compromise or we washed our hands and ate the cost of the part in a refund... and fwiw the markup on this stuff was insane so we really didn't lose anything aside from pure profit. I'm just spitballing but if the thing was $300 retail we were paying like $40 on it from the factory.
And thanks for listening to my TED talk. Next week I'll discuss how the Better Business Bureau is a scam and how you can pay them to have an A+ rating.
🫡🫡🫡💙
🫡🫡🫡
Should I move from Australia to USA🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅
Idk, Australia got some pretty cool stuff 😅