Subaru TR690 CVT Valve Body Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
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Given their CVT policies, it looks like even Subaru techs don't get much experience with the inside of these units until after the warranty expires. Thanks for posting this video, I find the details helpful.
True. They don't rebuild them. The most they do at the dealership is fluid replacement, valve body replacement, torque converter replacement CVT assembly replacement.
Nah subaru tech's arent required to over haul trannies or cvts in this day in age
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You 're a truly professional and passionate mechanic ..I will be following your videos due to the fact that im the owner of a 2005 legacy wagon turbo charged..and with your help and knowledge i will be able to do alot of work on it..thanks !
Thanks for making this video. It made swapping my valve body really straightforward. One of the solenoids really started to go recently, but even from new I had a little bit of clunk when the torque converter engaged. Swapping the valve body fixed both issues.
I did not expect to watch that the whole way through, but I did lol very informative!
I just had the valve body replaced on my 2014 Outback 2.5i. It started throwing the P0700 and P2764 trouble codes. I drove about 1,000 miles with it like that without too much trouble-it would die sometimes when first starting it and the shifting was off.
I’ve been living out of my car for a few months, working a seasonal job halfway across the country. Decided to get it fixed before I drive back home. Total cost was $1400 at the dealership
Excellent video. It's so nice to see somene else cleaning all their stuff as they go. It pains me to see people working on dirty parts. You do it right in my opinion. Keep it clean as you go and never worry about getting crud in your parts.
Awesome video I like like you supply them part numbers for every parts your replaced. Like I always say videos are very detailed and always have great lighting!!! Always look forward to the uploads and enjoy watching them!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video
Does this go for the 12 forester 4spd non turbo
You make it look easy this probably what's going wrong with mine. It's showing the signs of harsh lock ups. No code yet. Thankfully Subaru said they would replace it after they did a relearn. Even without a code
They ended up replacing it today! No more issues. Talk about a buzzer beater I'm at 98k miles of the 100k warranty
Thanks for the video. I chose to do my own this weekend and it turned out great so far. Wouldn’t have done it without your awesome step by step video!
Do you have to do the AT learning or does it do alright with just the reinstall?
I didn’t and neither have some others on Subaru forums. No one has mentioned an issue. The correct way is to do the relearn but I don’t know why if no one is having issues.
@@joepond769 Any update? I’m about to do this but don’t have the tool to do the relearn
@Yeyo Esparza no issue more than a year later.
Thank you! I removed all the black bolts, but that one silver bolt next to the connector is the one I needed to figure out
Awesome video, I followed the procedure and the car works almost flawlessly again, thank you for posting such an informative process! The only issue I'm having is that "reverse" behaves like "drive." So now the only way to go in reverse is to put myself in neutral and get pushed...so not the best haha. Per some earlier comments, I would have thought that maybe the valve body is bad, but it was working perfectly up until I tried to swap the solenoid so I'm inclined to believe it's still okay. Any thoughts on what I might have done wrong? I'm thinking maybe an O-ring didn't seat correctly, or I bumped some level when I reinserted the valve body.
Sounds like the manual valve wasnt engaged correctly
Thanks for excellent video and explanations. We purchased my daughter's 2013 Impreza just 2 months ago before she got the codes while driving to a friend's house. Valve body is the culprit according to the codes, more specifically the lockout solenoid. Bad thing is the Triton extended warranty doesn't seem to cover this repair according to the dealer, so lesson learned about extended warranty on Subaru's from Triton. Appreciate knowing the expertise that is needed to effectively repair the transmission.
Being a 2013 Impreza, you'll have a TR580 CVT. That means the valve body is on top of the transmission, rather than on the bottom, in the pan, like this TR690.
@@MrSubaru1387 It will have to be a job for the Subaru dealer then this week. Just don't have the tools if I run into issues getting the top cover off for the car and the time to do it myself. Think I could do it, your video helps build confidence and the videos for the TR580 help understand the repair from the top end of the car. Thanks for the heads up that the car model and year has a TR580.
Seeing the 2013 Impreza is different being TR580 will that also be the same for 2013 crosstrek xv ?
How much was you visit to dealer for this issue? If you don’t mind me to ask?
So I just wanted to make sure I'm getting the right information. Subaru dealership told me that my CVT Transmission on my 2021 Crosstrek limited is non serviceable they told me not to touch it. If it fails they r supposed to send it back to the manufacturer and they will send a new one.
Everything is serviceable mate. They're telling pork pies
Just got the PO700 code on my 2013 Outback, taking to dealer next week for I think valve body #3 original went around 110,000 #2 made it about 50,000
In regards to the bolts retaining the valve body to the transmission, it's 11 black bolts numbered 9 on the face or head of the bolt and the last being unmarked which is on the portion of the forward & reverse solenoid where the harness connectors are located...for those who haven't found a manual or weren't sure which bolts to remove. My lock up solenoid tested around 20 ohms, if there had to be a part to shit the bed it just happens to be this vital solenoid which can cause the torque converter to fail if you don't catch this soon enough. I'm not sure if Subaru spent enough time delving into this issue because they have a service bulletin for the torque converter but if you follow the sequence of operation on this particular CVT it is probably this damn solenoid which causes the torque converter issue. While I cannot prove this beyond doubt I'm just using my intuition from 22 years wrenching on cars. Luckily I didn't find any sediments or contaminants in my transmission fluid, galley, orifice related to the lock up solenoid. Definitely want to inspect the your fluid and the valve body. I found the lock up solenoid online so I chose not to replace the valve body or torque converter yet since my torque converter felt like it's still holding on strong. Not that I would recommend anyone going this route but I did a few preliminary test to rule out the torque converter had failed entirely. Hoping to make it to 200k miles with this torque converter. Driving your car with a failing solenoid long enough will most likely kill your torque converter, which will in turn destroy the transmission if not addressed soon enough, so if you happen to catch this early you may be able to get some life out of your torque converter if this solution is too hard on your wallet. My car is just under 110k so this was my decision to not go the route as our wonderful friend Mr. Subaru here. I really appreciate his professionalism and fountain of knowledge he shares in his videos so I don't recommend everyone cut corners as I did.
Question, I replaced the bad solenoid, and now my car won't move in any of the gears, I'm stumped
was yours stalling when coming to a stop?
@@JKGreene1976 originally, before I replaced the torque converter and lock up duty solenoid..... The stalling now is intermittent but typically under load. Starting to wonder whether the lock up " On/off" solenoid is going bad. This is the solenoid that can't be purchased by itself and operates within a different range... assuming the device is a normally an open circuit where the ECU calls for lock up when the car reaches 40mph. I'm worried mine may be locking up prematurely. This solenoid is not the same as lock up duty.... whatever the problem is, I'm having Subaru look at it because if the valve body came originally with faulty solenoids, I'm sure it's not just one solenoid failing when 3 of them have the same operational function.
The biggest issue is Subaru has a proprietary system on the transmission computer which we do not have access to. This is why Subaru is going through a lawsuit, because someone is suing them over the transmission proprietary technology which consumers say they rightfully paid for when purchasing the car. It's also other businesses suing Subaru over their repairing of transmission parts and how they go about repairing them. Essentially knowingly selling a faulty car to create future business at the expense of the consumer.
@@joecaca4136 have you replaced the torque converter yet? There was a recall for this but of course is over 100k miles and 10ths old so no longer covered under recall.. BS
Thank you for the detailed video! As always very helpful . I want to try to replace the failed solenoid in the valve body. Would you need to do a relearn for that as well?
I like this video! It's very detailed and easy to understand.
Definitely DO NOT forget to take that little pipe out of the old valve body and install it on the new one.. That mistake cost me a couple of days and some heartburn.
Did you do the relearn?
@@mpatone2263 Nope. Just drive it.
Great vid. Subaru is replacing this on my car, right now. Quoted very close to the same price you've said. Good to know what's going on. Thanks for making this. 👍👍
Read up on Subaru’s before we got our first 2019 Crosstrek but got one anyway. Lifted and pimped out new from dealer. Lots more room than our old Corolla. Got the full warranty so hopefully won’t have to get under it anytime soon.
Thanks for the videos!
that CVT fluid looked as though it has seen better days haha
157k miles. Factory fill.
@@MrSubaru1387 well... that explains everything
Where did you purchase the Subaru Select Monitor III USB?
Smart..to have that hat on your head!
Nothing like a dirty CVT oil head/hair!!
Lol, because there's no heat in the shop and it was freezing.
Not sure if your still active but great video. I assume you ran through the gears with the foot of brake and wheels free to turn. I did this and got a shudder with traction control lighting up upon shudder. Foot on brake or not?
First let me confess my foolishness as one who was rushed to change oil in daughters 2016 3.6R Outback and will be refilling the trans fluid. Your video is fantastically clear (I have subscribed) and the first one that clearly ID's the CVT fill port on a TR690 (seems the 580 is on the side of the housing facing passenger side). I have not found an inexpensive OBD tool that will show trans temp. Do you know of one? Could I use an infrared temp gun on a clean exterior trans pan?
Local Subaru dealer quoted $3,200 for this job - yeah, right. I bought a $95 solenoid and $170 of Redline 30804 fluid on Amazon. Two days later, I did the job after work, filled it the next evening, and (knock on wood) it's been driving great. No relearn. The longest process by far (one hour) was cleaning the RTV off the pan. The whole thing is a little messy, but otherwise easy, peasy.
Followed th-cam.com/video/HuWRVggxSYQ/w-d-xo.html for just the solenoid replacement.
This seemed very doable up until he started in with the computers. Is it possible to retrain the TCU w/o a scan tool? Or can I do the physical part and pay someone to do the retraining? I.e. is it drivable before the retraining?
Me too I would like to know?
Yes, it is driveable without retraining. I think you can do the physical part and pay someone for the computer part. If not, I'm SOL.
Forums say for some people it wasn't required. If it's acting funny just have a dealer do the relearn imo.
Our subaru went to the great scrap yard in the sky. I for one will never buy another subaru or another toyota again. Our highlander and our outback, both bought new, lasted less than 150K and ended up to be the most expensive and least reliable cars we've ever owned. (sorry for the rant.)
Great video, inspiring and educational!
1. Thanks for being so thorough. 2. Watching the black CVT fluid come out when you dropped the pan makes me want to do that when I change the fluid on mine. 3. Are there coolant lines for the CVT that I can add a GOOD inline filter to?
I wouldn't add an in line filter. May be a cause for flow restriction/issues down the line. Just keep the fluid changed and you should be fine. Drain and refill. No flushes.
My experience has been no one is willing to wait for the rtv to cure. (Even me) I’ve never had a service advisor who was willing to tell the customer their car has to sit overnight. Nor are flat rate techs willing to wait that long. 😂
Welp, I believe in doing things right, the first time. Anything worth doing, is doing right. Yet to have a pan leak, knock on wood. Lol
I’m not knocking you. I agree. That’s one of the benefits of owning the place where you work.
I waited the full 24 hours as well. If you don’t have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it again? Beauty of working on my own cars is I can follow this methodology :)
Love the video i got the p0700 and p2763 and p2757 sounds like i should replace the valve body I almost want to do this myself but the programing at the end of your video I would need some complicated software? Update I got Subaru to discount the valve body and labor down to $1700.00 out the door I have 132k miles on my Forester XT only 6 years old.
How did you get Subaru to discount it? Did you call SOA? If so what did you say
@@jason7078 Yes I called SOA If you talk nice and say how much you love Subaru which i have owned 3 they will often make a one time exception and apply some discount. It still was expensive but I did save about 3 to 4 hundred dollars and they did include the trans oil which is also expensive.
@@jamesnelson2844 Well they didn't do shit for me because the dealer lied.They said the dealer found the car is low on key cycles and believes it may have been tuned, and it is difficult to determine if that interfered with the transmission or not. Such bullshit I'm pissed. I'll never go back that's shady as fuck
@@jason7078 Sorry to hear about your experience sounds like it was more about the dealer than SOA. You can Tune a Piano but you cant Tune a Fish in the lower Keys with a Subaru sometimes we have to laugh at our pain/problems and we all have seen our fair share of BS from car dealerships.
You can buy the solenoid on Amazon or eBay for about $120.
Sounds like they are garbage based on recent reviews. Depends how much time and fluid you want to gamble with.
Transmission shop is replacing TCC & valve body on my 2011 Outback (109k miles). Is the CVT relearn procedure something I should assume they did? Is there an alternative direct driving method for the CVT relearn if they say they can't do it? (They're closed for weekend & I broke down far far from home).
I will be asking them to put that on the invoice.
Good vid. How long it takes to replace a valve body from start to finish?
Looks like you need to reset the TCM ID/memory. What is used to clear memory? It looks like you can't just do this with a basic code reader and you have to have a much fancier diagnostics tool or pay for programming software (in which case it probably is just easier to take it into the dealer and pay them for the hour or so of work). Also, what happens if you don't clear memory and try to run and drive the car with the new valve body/transmission?
Great video and recently subscribed to your channel. That fluid was pretty black was that its first time being changed? I have a 2015 Outback that I plan on doing the fluid on here in the next week or so. Last question - what was that software you used on your laptop? That seems extremely convenient to have.
Thank you for time explaining everything.
Pretty sure it had never been serviced. The laptop is the Subaru select monitor III factory scan tool.
Thanks for the follow up! Thats was a great video!
You're welcome 👍🏻
Thank you for this video...excellent mechanic
I have a 2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i. Am I correct in assuming the valve body is on the bottom of the transmission? My code is telling me it's the TCC solenoid, but the dealership wants $1800 to do it. After watching your video (and another on solenoid replacement) I feel confident I can do the physical replacement, but how can I perform the AT Learning process without the computer? Is that even possible?
Your awesome 👏 love your videos. Great Professional ! What camera do you use ? Thank you sir ... Merry Christmas 🎄
For this vid, Canon 6D MKII and Samsung Note 10+.
It is uncanny how my 1998 forester and now my 2011 2.5 outback have had all the known issues at over 200,000 miles (head gastkets, solenoid/valve body; $$$$ repairs). I just put electrical tape over the blinking AT Oil Temp Light on my 1998 and got another 200,000 miles. After watching this video and my Outback at 225,000 I think I will do the same and just do drain and fills until it dies. I did find this video fascinating but the fact I have to reprogram with a very expensive model specific software leaves me a bit discouraged. This advise is probably not the best but it worked for me in the past so time will tell...
I installed the new one exactly as you instructed...many thanks for that. Only issue now, the trans temp light flashes from the time you start the car until you shut it off. Drives perfect though. Ideas? Where is the trans temp sensor? Thank you for the help...
by the way those valve body solenoids can be repaired, just need to rewind coil wire, it's important to use same thickness copper wire and wire lenght should be the same as it was
Oh I'm aware that they can be replaced, the issue is Subaru doesn't sell them separately from the valve body.
I mean solenoid itself can be dissasemled and repaired. Of course this option is more like diy and maybe not an option when you are working on customer car. Replacing whole valve body is more professional approach in your case.
www.drive2.ru/l/452400107636130186/#a461262446233912430
that is instruction how it can be done, it's in russian, but can be traslated with google chrome browser translator, maybe useful for somebody as diy cheap repair without replacing valve body
Brilliant video !
Thanks for the video! @ 1:30 you mentioned a video diagnosing the issue. Did you ever end up making that? Thanks again.
Good video. I had mine replaced under the extended warranty along with the torque converter. Well I'm 500 miles over the extended warranty and Subaru of America only offered a 350$ parts and service certificate. It sucks cause they changed the valve body barely 12k miles ago. It seems these cvt transmissions are doomed even with replacement. Same code as before. P2763 and p2762. Any thoughts? Maybe the wiring harness? That was the only thing that hasn't been done according to the tsb.
Subaru wants 2700 to do this job
Your video was fantastic, but I do have a question. Next to the pressure pipe you installed on the new valve body, I noticed the large port next to the pressure pipe that appears to have an o-ring sitting over that port, however you do not mention that o-ring, and when you installed the valve body, you made no reference to the o-ring. You can see it at 16:28 minutes into your video.
I just got the check engine light on my 2011 outback with 2.5 so I know this is gonna be me soon
SSM is awesome. I use freessm which is obviously not capable of actually doing learning like people say. It’s funny how many people say just clear mem2 and go. Def more to it than that.
You can clear the adaptive and drive to relearn. Just much faster to do the process with the scan tool.
MrSubaru1387 hey man thanks for all the videos,
I followed all the steps replacing the valve body, then i had to follow your other video for taking the engine out of my outback 2011 2.5 and i also replaced the torque converter,
I used the OEM valve body and torque converter and I successfully did everything because of your videos,
The only thing was that after i cleared memory 2 the AT temp light is blinking 8 times/sec and i am driving the car but it is not relearning,
I want a cheap solution for that other than the dealer,
Thank you
Hoe long have you driven it with the light blinking? Can take over 100 miles in some cases.
MrSubaru1387 i will drive around Houston tonight and i will keep you posted,
I only drove 10 miles
there's an extended warranty on cvt transmissions to 10 years or 100k miles just got mine fixed 13 impreza
How were you able to diagnose that you had to change the valve body, I have the same error codes P0700 and P2762.
Great Video, really detailed very easy to follow.
Hi my name is Ferdinand, I'm at the moment working on a 2012 Subaru Outback is is on stands and I have to crawl underneat it.
I had an error P2763
I got a new valve body.
While removing the old valve body, the pressure pipe remained in the housing., tough time to get it out, the pressure pipe fell in the oil and Im not sure if it matters which way the pressure pipe goes in to the main body. is this important.
I transferred the pressure pipe with new o-rings to the new body, but have problems in reinstalling valve body to line up and press the valve body into the main body.
it will not go into the main body. any suggestions.
Thanks kindly Ferdinand
could you give me a call?
Just happened to my Subaru 2009 Outback 3.0 currently at 178000 miles.
Great video thanks for sharing!
Is this the part that normally fails when the Cvt does? I have a 2012 outback. So far it’s ok but I’m planning ahead. Also, it has 110k on it and to my knowledge has not had the CVT serviced. At this point should I service it or will it do more damage than riding it out? I ask because I have heard that if a transmission has not been serviced until high miles sometimes doing a service will ruin valves. Thank you.
I'd suggest replacing the fluid. Drain and refill only, no flushes!
MrSubaru1387 I will then. Thank you for all the educational videos.
Great video. Replacing the valvebody in my mother's outback for her now. What would happen if you drive the car without having the valvebody relearned? If you don't have the software to do so does it have to go to the dealership to be relearned or is there a process you can do at home to accomplish this?
Did you ever get an answer?
Would also really love to know this, before going forward doing it myself
@@doughicks9302 not yet
I need to know this, as well.
I can confirm a 2023 Autel Maxicom MK808S will.
excellent video. I wanted to ask a question; I have a 2014 Outback with 130k miles after changing the trans fluid, the car is not good, there are no codes on the dash, but when we drive 20 to 40 miles it slips a lot once and at 60 miles after the first fluid change I changed the fluid and the filter 2 more times, now I used subaru cvt fluid, once it doesn't slip at all, I don't know what to do, I have another car and I don't use it, can you give me any opinion, it could be the valve body, if not there are codes in dash
Im getting similar issues with my 2011 with 140k Same car. Have you had any experience with servicing the transmission fluid will fix the 2nd "gear" slip or hard shift. It interesting that it doesnt do it in manual mode using the paddle shifters.
What are the options on software to Re-train the valve body? Will Autel do that?
Thanks, and great video!
I can confirm a 2023 Autel Maxicom MK808S will.
Great video as usual. Just got an AT oil temp light just as I was pulling in to work 52 mile drive. turned off as soon as I turned the car off and back on. Hopefully it’s not valve body related. I recently did the valve body on my 08 GT so I am familiar with the process.
Did the light ever come back on? Mine came on at 102,000 miles. Ran diagnostics at Subaru and no codes came up. Just had the transmission fluid flushed. Waiting to see what happens after a 1 hr drive (that’s how long I drove the 2x the light came on). Praying it’s not the Valve Body.
*2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited
*EDIT* My light only comes on after driving for 45+ mins on the freeway going 65 mph+. No codes came up at Subaru. Is this the valve body?
StreaminGreen funny you ask. It didn’t. Until today. So took 3 weeks. Unfortunately I had to drive it home from work 50 miles. I think I’m going to change the fluid and if it fails again bite the bullet and buy the valve body
nick scarola ouch that sucks bro. Mine comes on solid after about 45+ mins of driving but goes away if I let the car idle for a minute or if I restart the engine. I just had the transmission flushed but I’m praying it’s not the valve body. I hope the same for u brother. Keep me updated!
he guys. I have a 2014 forester and got the transmission fluid changed / flushed [the counter guy says one thing and the mechanic says another] anyway,, 3 months later my dashboard lights up like a christmas tree [AT over heat, traction cntrl, chk eng lite etc...] now they said my valve body is bad. Only cost 1800. Fyi. Feel your pain.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I just got done with the repair yesterday and it went super smooth. I ended up just replacing the single faulty solenoid like @bruceyyyyy describes in his video but you video was incredibly well done and I used it for the removal and replacement steps. Cost me only ~$200 for the solenoid and fluids for the job. YOU ROCK!!!
I think it time for you to do a video specifically to replace transmission valve body solenoids. I know you do things by the book as far as doing repairs according to Subaru recommendations, but as of this comment date the TR690 valve body is back order indefinitely. We have no choice but to replace the solenoids. I'd rather trust your judgment on replacing the solenoids. Please consider. Thanks.
There’s no means to buy the OE solenoids. If there was, I’d do solenoids only. Everyone that’s emailed me, replacing the solenoids with the cheap Chinese ones from eBay, are back doing the job again, within a year, when they fail. I won’t recommend the solenoid only replacement because the only solenoids available are crap. Do it right with the VB and you’re good for years and 100k+ miles. Replace a solenoid with aftermarket junk and you’re wasting time and money doing the job again.
@@MrSubaru1387 I'm not trying to do the job on the cheap,. Got the code P2763. Jim Keras Subaru dealer said "We don't have the valve body and we can't get the valve body. We recommend you go to a transmission shop to replace just the solenoid. " I then ordered the valve body for my 2016 Forester XT from Subaru Parts Deals. They emailed me saying they can't get the part. Now I'm stuck with no choice but to go after market solenoid. I'll keep trying to get the valve body. Hopefully I'll get it before after market solenoids fail. But I need my car. Spending a weekend, money on fluid, o-rings, and solenoids is not bad keeping my car in service. I already had my Topdon 900BT scanner. I just wanted a better video to follow to help out consumers like me who are stuck between a rock and a hard place.
Forgot to mention before this visit to Jim Keras Subaru dealer where they diagnosed the P2763 code (for free, which I though was weird) the solenoid was "open" no continuity ... less than a 1,000 miles ago the dealer did my cvt fluid change at 110k mi.
Great video. I heard that you can get individual solenoids, but the way I see it they're all the same age and if one is bad, the next one might be about to fail as well. No point in doing the job twice! My 2013 needs the valve body and I plan to do it myself, but I'm not sure about the final part where you've got the laptop hooked up. Can I just clear the faults with my OBDII scan tool or do I need to take it to a dealership?
Did you get your 2013 sorted out? Im in a similar situation. replaced one solenoid but about 8 months later check engine light came on and same problems. Should have replaced the whole body the first time.
@@JDanger22 it wound up being that my battery was dying. Ultimately, replacing the battery fixed the issue. Low voltage during cranking threw codes.
@@a.sanford8731 So, you were getting transmission codes? Do you recall which ones? Did you know the battery was causing those codes, or did you just happen to replace the battery & the codes went away?
Great video. Very helpful. Try Stivers Subaru fo parts
This makes me worry about purchasing a car with a CVT transmission. Is my worrying justified?
It is. They're pretty expensive to fix when they fail. They're failing at a higher rate than the old 4EAT and 5EAT as well.
Was there ever a second video made instructing how to diagnose this and narrow it down to the valve body being the problem?
You’d think the drain and fill plugs would be the same size hex hey 🤔
Ensure that the manual valve is aligned with the manual plate before all of the bolts are tightened or you will get to install the bolts twice....
I am learning this the hard way. I forgot to do this completely and the gear shifter inside the car doesn't even move. Do you think this may be the issue? Thanks
@@GisborneDAVE and @rogerairborne I forgot to do this too, was about to refill it w/ fluid after waiting for the sealant to cure. Would the valve body not seat properly if it wasn't engaged? It went on nice and snug.
Question for you. I have a 2011 2.5i Premium with bad head gasket, 160K miles. Should I go ahead and change out the torque converter while I have the engine out as preventive maintenance? As far as I know it is still the factory one.
Im working on 2011 outback and would like to know if there is a diagram of what each solenoid is...? any help would be much appreciated!
last day i did the exact same thing in my garage and now car is going backward in reverse and in drive is there something i did that could have had an effect
I can’t get our Outback to move after doing this job. Did the procedure to relearn but maybe I am missing something.
Hi, this is a very informative video. I need your advice:
I have a GP2 Impreza 1.6I. I got it as an import and first thing I did was a major service including CVT oil change at about 87K miles. Afterwards, the AT Oil Temp light comes on while:
1. Moving at speeds over 80mph downhill.
2. Sustained acceleration of speed at 60mph or over uphill.
The light is steady, it doesn't flash. I come to a stop everytime the light is displayed. After about 3 minutes, the light disappears and I proceed as if nothing has happened. A visit to my local subaru dealership hasn't been fruitful coz no error codes have been established upon diagnosis.
Kindly advise
Great Video. IF I dont have the super computer to relearn the AT/CVT, will it still operate normal (ish). thank you
What is going to be happened, without relearn procedure?
He is great.. step by step, very clearly explanation..
Mrsubaru, what is the video where you do the diagnosis to be able to change the valve body?
Be careful installing the o-rings, the dealership messed up installing them and the entire transmission had to be replaced after I picked my car up and drove it 1/8 mile. Subaru gave me a new transmission, but if you mess that up when you do the valve body replacement yourself you wouldn't be so lucky.
If I was to do the Valve Body Replacement myself, would the car be able to get it to the local Dealer(15 minutes away) to do the Relearn? I've already have done a Trans Pan/Filter plus refill on a CVT and feel competent enough to do the Valve Body, just worried about the Relearn Procedure and paying the $1500 for the dealer to do it. Are there any DIY/APPS Programs that can do the Relearn available for the Consumer? Thanks for all of your Videos.
Same question...following.
You can drive it without the relearn. No, you need the Subaru factory scan tool to perform the relearn.
I can confirm a 2023 Autel Maxicom MK808S will.
Do you know how to check which type of transmission ( tr580/tr690) is in my 2015 Forester 2.5.
What are you sealing the pan with? A gasket or rtv?
Quick question, if I may?
Did you ever post a 2nd video on the diagnostics for this valve body replacement. Just asking because my 2011 Legacy (2.5L - 217k miles (a ton of highway miles as you can see)) has a strange shifting issue going on at the moment and I would appreciate your input. Long story short, "after" the car warms up and I go to pull out from a stop sign / red light, the car moves just fine, but then when it wants to shift up to the fake 2nd gear, i can feel like a thud from that shift while it goes into its higher "gear" - It feels like shifting a manual tranny from 2nd to 6th. After the "thud" happens, the car runs fine. I can step on the throttle and it will downshift like its supposed to and there isn't any slipping what so ever.
Now, here's the strange part: when the car is cold, it doesn't do it at all - it drives like its supposed to with seamless shifts, it all happens "after" the car warms up. If I throw it into manual shift mode, I can't get the "thud" shift to happen, but the rpm's will rise normally and then surge higher for a second and then continue on normally. Once that happens, I can manually shift through all the fake gears and everything performs normally.
So, I know there are a lot of highway miles on this car, but it has performed flawlessly throughout those 217k miles. The engine has been a champ and still performs close to the day that I got it. I can still get great gas mileage on the highway, it doesn't burn oil and the interior and exterior are in great shape. So, I'm hoping that its just the valve body that seems to be acting up and not the torque converter or the tranny itself, because I really don't want to get rid of it since its been such a great car.
As a side note; I'm not getting any codes thrown and the tranny fluid level is fine. The tranny fluid hasn't been changes as per Subaru says not to - but you already know that part.
Your insight would be greatly appreciated. Just wanted to know your thoughts before I took it to a mechanic in my area - which, is basically another Mr. Subaru as that's all he works on.
Best Regards and keep up the good work.
Please help with some advice. My son just did this to his 2010 legacy. We dont have a relearn tool. Heres the problem, the car goes backward in drive and reverse. It will not go forward. Any thoughts? Thank you
Is there anyway to do the relearning process yourself after you swap out the Valvebody with a Subaru OEM Valvebody on a 2011 Subaru Legacy 3.6r ?
Like this video. What is the adhesive (pink) between oil pan and CVT body? I didn't see you re-seal oil pan. No need to use this adhesive?
That's ThreeBond RTV silicone. I reseal the pan with Permatex Ultra Grey RTV Silicone.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the information
Excellent video. Can you recommend a source for a used/remanufactured valve body for a 2014 Subaru Crosstrek?
Thank you for the video
You're welcome. 👍🏻
2011 Outback 2.51, Just started getting check engine light coming on, ran through a code reader and getting p0700 and p2764. Is this a definite replacement of the Valve Body?
Hi Mr. Subaru. If the 'Manual Valve Rod' on the valve body isn't connected to the selector could this cause the gear shifter inside the car to not want to move past reverse from park? I think I have done this and the gear shifter just didn't want to move. Only just managed to get it into reverse and thought crap, what have I done!!!
I have a 2011 Outback CVT not sure if TR580 or 690. No codes, just bad torque bind in tight turns. All tires are the same and proper PSI. I've changed the CVT fluid and differential fluid, no change. I have heard a valve body can possibly be the fix. Any thoughts? My car does not have the FWD fuse to try.
I’m beginning to think I didn’t get over charged that badly at the dealership...
Thanks You mister
2017 Legacy at 67k miles. Can I get away with a simple dump and fill on jack stands? Or should I start planning long term for a failure at this point and just do the job you've shown here? Not sure on CVT where the "to late you'll only cause damage" point is.
Do you know how i can find a good shop in Mass to change my valve body out?
I have a question MrSubaru. 2011 Subaru Outback 130k miles Just had trouble code p0700 and p2763 show up a month ago. Decided it was too much for me to handle and took to a 'local trusted mechanic' being our dealership is 100 miles away. He replaced the valve body and now the car will not go into gear.....any suggestions? I have since hauled the car home and wanted to try to solve the issue.
What would happen if the manual valve wasn't in the correct spot with the lever at 25:10.
Hi - getting ready to do this job in the near future. I do not have a scan tool that will do the AT relearn. Any advice?
Love the video and info! Advise please! Got the same P0700 and P2762 (with P050A, C0057 and C0045) codes on my 2011 outback. Mechanic at Subaru dealer said it was VB AND Transmission that both would need to be replaced. But how do you know if it's both the transmission and VB? Don't know if they are just trying to sell me a new car. lol The car has 177,000 miles on it so I wouldn't replace the trans if that was the case but thinking if it's worth it to change the VB for about $1500/$2000if that's what it is only. The symptoms when driving are poor acceleration on hills and getting up to speed on highway. Also all dashboard lights are on. If I get a new car should I stay away from the CVTs? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
How long should one of these transmissions last after valve body & torque converter replacement (my car is a 2011 Outback w/109,000 miles on it)? CVT fluid was changed at 62k miles. Do lots of dirt road driving (but I generally always drive at an easy pace in or off road).
Question, My 2016 Impreza Sedan 2.0L is getting a bad solenoid on the valve body. I have ordered a used replacement valve body. If I just swap all the solenoid's, can I avoid the programming as I am a DIY guy? Not sure what holds the programming that the car knows.
MrSubaru
I have a 2013 outback vin# ending in D3228068, I called my local Subaru dealer where I purchased the vehicle here in Memphis Tn and asked for a couple of part numbers and the type of CVT I had so I could do some research before I got into and they refused to give me the info I needed. I have already recieved the incorrect speed sensor using the year make and model.