Hesitation Off The Line? Subaru CVT Fluid Replacement, Apadtives Clear, & Learn Process Completed!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
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That tip about removing the fill plug *first* before removing the drain plug is absolute gold.
If you remove the drain plug first, draining the CVT in the process, and then find the fill plug is completely seized or stripped somehow, well, you've now got no easy way to refill the CVT to get it back to a driveable condition.
You're then *forced* to figure out the fill plug problem with whatever you've got in that particular location, cuz the car ain't going anywhere.
And that's the kind of tip you'll only get from someone with experience, folks.
Watched your other videos to replace the valve body of my wife's 2018 Forester with the TR580 CVT, front & rear diff fluid changes, & CVT fluid replacement and relearn procedures. Luckily TopDon was having a sale so I got the Phoenix Lite 2 and did the relearn procedure myself. Went to the dealership and some other shops and quoted me upwards of $3000 to replace the valve body. All said and done I spent roughly $1000 parts and fluids (not including the TopDon). Thank you for what you're doing and keep posting videos!
Hands down the best channel for all things Subaru! Having finally bought my first one in 2022 I find myself coming here for everything even if it’s just to learn the ins and outs. Great stuff!
It’s so amazing seeing no rust on these southern cars. #rustbeltprobs
road salt in snow environments are the real issue with rust
I had my cvt fluid change on my 2015 2:12 legacy 3.6 and made a world of difference, I went from 15 -17 mpg to 19 mpg city , and much crisper acceleration.😅
Less friction!
Love your videos, as I own my 4th Subaru, a 2023 Outback Touring XT. Sometimes the service department is the customer's worst enemy. I had a 2015 Outback 2.5i Limited. I do not put a lot of mileage on my car ( I own my current Outback just shy of a year and just coming up to 5k miles) t 3 years of ownership I requested the CVT fluid change and the service manager gave me an argument. He tried to convince me it was a "permanent fluid". So I asked what is the difference between the American fluid and the Japanese fluid? The Japanese home market recommends changing the fluid every 3 years or 36k miles. Then I told him, just do it, I am the customer.
100%. Subaru’s biggest detriment to their brand, is Subaru of America.
Had the same argument with my dealer in Bradenton, Florida. They finally did change it after I pitched a fit.
It’s so odd to me that some dealerships won’t/try to refuse service on the CVT. Any dealer in my area will do as you request, no questions asked. I have 46k on my 2022 Outback Touring and have had the CVT serviced once so far.
Sadly, they probably never actually changed your fluid. Take your car to an independent transmission shop that is only known for their quality work! Even if you have to drive a bit! If you can not do it yourself. I worked for multiple dealerships for many many years. We used to be the standard. Horrifyingly, dealerships today are worse than jiffy lube! They only want to pay minimum wage to the new guys coming in and often higher illegal aliens as well.
Every transmission uses a filter didn't see that change in this video!😮
What ever happened to the hood ol days when changing the tranny fluid was just a dump and fill…lol. This is definitely not for the lay person unless you have all the diagnostic gear to plug into the OBD. Another great video.
Thanks for these video's. I've already serviced a bunch of TR580 Subies without any issues.
Do you meke the relearning process? i wont to do but don't have a scanner
Excellent videos. I used your videos to perform the CVT transmission fluid change as well as the front and rear differential fluid change. I even used my Topdon Phoenix Lite 2 to do the transmission relearn. Which I bought with the money I saved doing all this myself. Thanks Mr. Subaru!
Such an important service it makes a huge difference. Great video. It’s so amazing seeing no rust on these southern cars. #rustbeltprobs.
Clean and Fluid film undercoat every fall
Why would a car have rust in it after less than 10 years, mine is coming up 7 years old in april and not a spec of rust anywhere.
@@jasonswift7098road salt. I just got rid of a 2013 that had pretty much reached the end of its life due to corrosion from salt.
@@jasonswift7098 LMAO you've obviously never seen a 10 year old central New York State car. It's so bad it makes me want to cry :(
The fluid draining from the transmission is a good color. from factory if never changed the cvt fluid is a darker red ish color like that. the stuff you fill it with on its first service will be a lighter green cvtf-2. I've replaced under warranty many tr690s and tr580s and the fluid is always this color no mater the mileage.
The CVT fluid thing is a weird one. Instinct really tells me no fluid should be lifetime, but most of the rumors relating to why you should change it end up being false. Japan doesnt recommend changing it. The ONLY manual that has a service interval on it is the Canadian one, which states 100k. Thats likely just a mistake and was left in there from the standard automatics.
When a car with a standard transmission is driving, it engages the clutch pack very frequently. This leaves material in the fluid. You go from park to drive, that's 1 engagement. Then you accelerate/decelerate & every gear change is a clutch pack engagement. Driving from your house to the freeway and getting up to highway speeds will likely be over 15 engagements.
Doing the same thing with Subaru's CVT would be 1 single engagement; Going from park to drive. There's no clutch usage whilst driving.
Does changing the fluid benefit anything, or would somebody be wasting all their time and money?
@@kyle-qw5yx The torque converter clutch gets used quite a bit especially in cvt transmissions. They activate quite early when driving but still come on and off depending on traffic and driving conditions. also some Subaru's have a viscous coupling or a clutch as a center differential. this also builds wear and uses the fluids. another aspect are the heat cycles that the fluid experiences. I personally work at a subaru dealer and do fluid changes and transmission replacement quite often. 100k km for the first fluid change is about twice what it should be. I recommend doing it during your C service which is 3 years 60k km along with brake fluid and injector service.
@@zac8123 My dealer does not do them, and the only local shop I've found willing wants $450. For that price, it's a pass. lol
@@kyle-qw5yx The standard transmission has a wet clutch ?
I'll never work on my own cars anymore, but we just bought a Forester Wilderness so it's good to know more about Subarus so I am better educated when it comes time to take it in for servicing. I've heard our local Subaru dealer is pretty decent, so I'm hoping for better experiences than we got with our previous Kia vehicles.
i like my subaru dealership also good people, just took my crosstrek in for that 30k service
on a 4 hr service they give you a loaner car mine was a new outback
Hyundai/Kia dealerships are the worst to deal with. Communication was nonexistent and repair times were much longer than expected. On my 2nd and 3rd Subarus now. First Subaru required a new battery and tires in 8 years of ownership. Can’t say that about my last and final Hyundai.
My friend never trust a stealership they are nothing but parts changers and experts at toweling the job.
They’ll bill you for work not done.
Why won't you ever work on your own vehicles again?
@@alexhaile7957 My vehicles are newer and under warranty (or extended warranty) so I won't need to do anything on them for quite a while. My bad back prevents me from wrenching on cars anymore.
Proof that CVT service on a Subaru should be done by a properly trained and diligent mechanic. There's no way a mechanic should try and bluff their way through one of these services without proper equipment and knowledge. Good to know.
PSA, you will need a breaker bar to get the fill plug out if its never been opened before. They are in ridiculously tight from the factory.
Just used a torch and 1/2” impact gun on ours, still wouldn’t crack loose!!
Just don’t be a pussy
Vice grip
Just bought my first Subaru today! 2021 Outback limited XT, has 42,000 miles on it and the service department said the fluid hadn’t drained and filled yet, must do this soon!!
TY for the video. I didn’t think I could want a CVT any less than before, but here we are.
My old work van had a CVT. Hated every minute of it for the better part of a decade. Terrible in the winter. Horrifying in a panic stop. Smooth on highway though. Good gas mileage, but I’d rather take a little hit at the pump than mess with that again.
FYI y’all Idemitsu is the OEM supplier for this fluid…. Also for the 5EAT …. they also make the OEM fluids for Honda, Nissan…
Such an important service it makes a huge difference. Great video
I have a 2019 Outback with 72,000 miles. At about 50,000 I went to a dealer for service, asked for the CVT fluid to be replaced. Was told it wasn't needed until 100,000 miles. Seemed odd but I did what they told me to do. Well guess what.This week I heard a strange sounds coming from the drivetrain. Took it back to the same dealer, they did their diagnostic work and informed me my transmission was bad and I needed a total replacement. Good thing I have a extended warranty!! Also had my touch screen go out last year. Took them over 9 months to find a replacement.
yes every 30,000 miles CHANGE THE CVT FLUID !
When these were new, all 2014 and newer models with CVT, we were told it was a 100K replacement interval. Several years later, they changed their minds. Then, because other car brands like Nissan had problems with CVT transmissions (theirs had a belt instead of a chain), Subaru declared a 100K (or 10 years) CVT/ Drivetrain warranty, even on cars not original owner. Subaru told me this was true. Now, dealers are saying change it sooner than that. Remember, these are not made the same as other transmissions, so a 30K interval is way overkill. I am going to do mine before 100K because of its age and not mileage.
@@barry4fish19 I tried to get the trans serviced and they told me I didn't need it. Rather frustrating, Just glad I had the extented warranty and got a new trans at no charge. Also had the touch screen radio go out which apparantly is a common problem.
Must be nice to live in an area where these older cars aren't completely rotted out from road salt! Good to know the CVT fluid replacement seems relatively easy though.
Hello again Mr. Subaru! Excellent explanation, BUT you left me with an important question. I have replaced the fluid and filter in my 2013 Subi Crosstrek Limited as you explained; EXCEPT for not having a scan tool as you do and did so I could NOT do the re-learning. What types of problems can I get into for NOT doing the re-learning part of the operation, please? Is the a an easier way to do it without spending all that money on the scan tool, please? OR taking it to the dealer to have them 're-learn' it??
im pretty sure you only have to do a relearn in two situations one being doing a valve body replacement and when the cvt fluid is extremely dirty if im not mistaken
Hey next time you do one of these videos on CVT with hesitation, try test driving it without the re-learn so we can see if it makes a difference.
My Crosstrek does the same, I've done 3 CVT fluid changes and no difference. Looks like the re-learn is what really made the difference but some folks say you can skip it. If you're having hesitation, don't skip the relearn or you'll waste 5 quarts of good CVT fluid. (10 in my case)
Good call! I was going to ask this question…I have an older 2008 Outback but no access to the computer for the relearn… I’ve read elsewhere that it’s not necessary… 🤷♂️
Just checking to see if you received my question on the necessity of going through the A/T Learning mode procedure. I have a 2015 outback 2.5I premium and am just changing the CVT fluid. Not all of your CVTF replacement videos talk about the Learning mode procedures; so, I am confused as to if that procedure is necessary just for a fluid change. Thanks, bud. Appreciate your videos.
You can also recommend OBD2 for displaying CVT oil temperature.
How do you do that? Thanks
Pretty clean underneath for all those miles! Thanks for the great video!!
Super helpful! I thought this was a bit more complex than this so I had always taken to the dealer. Recently caught my sister's Crosstrek up with 2 drain and fills since we didn't know the history of her car. Seemed not too dirty for 140k so I have hopes that it has been serviced in the past.
I was involved in changing gearbox fluid on a Volvo V70 and the trick we used was to disconnect the hoses from the oil cooler and fill fresh fluid in the return hose while draining the old through the feed hose - and trying to keep track of drained v.s. filled volume and waiting for the color change. That actually worked pretty well and most of the fluid was then changed because the oil drained did pretty much match the specified volume for the gearbox.
Maybe it was a bit lazy, but if it works it's not totally wrong.
My dealership couldn’t even do my 5 tire wilderness rotation correct 😂. Time to do maintenance myself!!!
They didn’t even do my tire rotation last time and left my glove box w the cabin filter on the floor 🤦🏻 I wish we didn’t need a computer for this so I think I may need to find another mechanic to do this… I’m taking on just about everything else myself tho!
Yeah, not for me, but I appreciate you showing it for the masses. Good video!
Excellent video, was very informative
Thank you for this. I did it successfully for a customer. However, this is why all my vehicles have manual transmissions.
Familiar thing. A couple of long trips on even surfaces with very gentle acceleration should do the trick.
Mr Subaru, how about a video on the high torque fluid. Specifically, any alternatives such as Idemitsu or Motul?
QUESTION! do I need to do the AT learning value thing? I have a 2018 crosstrek 2.0 liter.
No that will only reset the shifting points.
Off topic. The auto gearbox on my 2002 Forester made it to 500,000 km yesterday. No repairs ever, just oil and filter changes. Not bad! I do have to let it warm up for a few minutes these days or it will clunk a bit when I put it in reverse. I assume this indicates some part/s is worn and it's gradually dying (I'm no gearbox expert), so slowly saving for a replacement. Still happy about how long it has lasted though.
The 4EAT us a durable old style design. It's lasted this long because it is not a CVT. My AU Falcon went for 450000 km and was starting to delay engaging gears as well. I was considering to buy a Subaru but I don't like the CVTs. They are not durable.
I also had an AU Falcon (2000 if I remember rightly). That 4L straight 6 and gearbox was a very reliable combo in my experience. Pity the build quality of the rest of the car was absolutely awful.@@chrisbenn8691
Yeah, I learned the hard way mini years ago about taking the fill plug out first on an old Ford ranger with a T5 manual transmission could not get the fill plug out so I ended up pulling the shifter out of the transmission through the floor of the truck and put the fluid in that way Outside the box thanking there 😂
That....was a genius solution.... 😅
Great video don with care and attention , many many people with cvt issues I feel from what I have seen think that you just dump the oil put in x amount and you are good to go. One reason that either very experienced technicians should do this or a dealership. Nissans especially since they were one of the early companies had issues of which many drove them 100K before they had the tranny serviced. We have ours done every 25 K, 2019 Pathfinder. Subaru builds a great vehicle.
I can't help but wonder if the relearn alone would have resolved this issue. Based on the looks of the CVT fluid, I don't disagree with the need to replace it, but I really would like to know if the relearn was the fix, or if it was the fluid replacement.
ive "fixed" several stuttering TR690s and TR580s just by changing the CVT fluid. ive found the Lubeguard Complete CVT fluid is just as good or better than the OEM at a much lower cost than the absurd price the stealership charges for it
The Subaru cvt fluid is outrageous. I use the editsu or whatever it is at half the price.
@jeffreygoss8109 Yep Idemitsu $55 for 5Qts from Rock Auto, it's the same stuff (CVTF-II vs SB2). Hope they make a SB3 soon for the newer TR580s.
Or AISIN ATF-SCV @ $9.15 per quart, also from RockAuto.
Is there a less expensive Top Don unit that can be used to do this relearn procedure. Asking for us mere modals! 🤨 Thanks
Have a 2021 Forester Premier. Call the local dealership to see if they would replace the transmission fluid since i heard some dealerships won't 14:38 do it. Subaru of Fort Myers said they will di it but will charge $1100.00. Think i will do this myself and will continue to research.
Seems a lot easier than I thought. I guess if my scanner shows atf temp then I’m good to do this myself.
Or just use a infrared temp gun on the pan.
Yeah but what about the CVT learning procedure and stuff?
@@Aeryxs don’t think that’s needed for a fluid change. I think he did it because he was having the hesitation issue.
Very helpful, thank you.
Hey Mr.Subaru how many litres did you use for this drain & fill procedure?
Thank you for showing procedure much appreciated
So, this looked like a very simple process, and easy to drain/fill - why all the “it’s a sealed system don’t f with it EVER” stuff from Subaru? Did I possibly replace my CVT unnecessarily? My mechanic said “there’s no way to get into it or rebuild it” - I realize a rebuild may be off the table, but seems like a fluid change ‘ released might have helped find if there was something else causing every warning light and chime to go off.
Subaru Japan has always said to service the CVTF every 3yr/36k miles. Subaru of America says the CVT is sealed and a lifetime fluid, purely to show a lower cost of ownership.
Subaru Australia also say sealed for life. Unless under extreme conditions eg towing/off rd.
However all our CVTs In Australia get a cvt oil cooler standard. Except the 2.0 engines.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks - I really wish I’d been paying more attention in the early days of the vehicle.
So I F'd up on an oil change with our 18 Outback and pulled the CVT drain plug thinking it was the oil drain plug.... long story short I had the dealership replace the CVT fluid ($400 oops). They told me it was a lifetime fluid. I can understand Subaru of America (Corporate) saying lifetime but don't know why my local dealership would say the same if they can make $400+ every 36K to change my CVT fluid? Makes no sense. I also have a 2010 Audi Q5 which I'm also told has lifetime transmission fluid.
thank you for the quick tutorial!
There was a significant amount of fluid draining from the upper plug compared to the final amount of replacement fluid. Please explain if this is a problem and why not.
Wife's 70k mile 2015 outback 2.5 limited is having this hesitation issue, car drives 80% in heavy traffic. CVT Fluid was changed once at 35k and I will do it again next week, have not decided if I will go with Subaru fluid or Amsoil, I use Amsoil for all my other vehicles and quite happy with results. Question is in regards to the re-learning, I found that on a recent occasion where I had the battery disconnected overnight the next day the presumed CVT issue was gone for the 1st hour of driving in traffic and then came back again so I presume if you disconnect your battery long enough after the fluid change the transmission module will loose memory and be forced into a re-learn mode. I am having another issue with the battery going down fast (like 10 min) if engine stopped and car switched on. Happened several times while waiting for kids and keeping the radio on. (radio which only has 1 FM frequency working (go figure) . Needs jumper cables to start then after 10 min of driving back home test battery with load tester and find battery fully charged. (?) This has cost my wife already 2 batteries since if she calls road assistance they say her battery need replacement and I have one for you in the van. Hard to believe Subaru USA such crap vehicles, my son still drives our 2000 Forester SF5 2L turbo recently converted to E85 with over 300K miles made in Japan with zero problems, zero rust, leather seats like new compare to our 15 outback leatherette shit that is completely torn apart on our driving seat. Ha yes also I never figured what the wind noise is at the driver window. Wife likes the car, me not at all, I admit it could be a very good car, have driven it long trips and it drives well but quality is a big issue.
2014 legacy.. if I could replace the cvt with a 6 SPD.... I have 220k..and was always told factory unit don't touch it.
I avoid faux leather like the plague, that stuff always disintegrates in less than a year
Ask questions and do your research…
Dealership A: Drain/Fill/Relearn $330
Dealership B: Drain/Fill $330, $364, $375 (Told me a relearn wasn’t needed. Treated me like I was a dumb ol girl. Three different people quoted me three different prices.)
Went with Dealership A since they were in line with Mr. Subaru.
Is the relearn a mandatory step ? I have seen other videos from you (the 2015 white Subaru) where you didn’t relearn it !! Thanks in advance 🙏
Thanks .....................I have a 2013, Legacy, 80,000 miles, I need to do this........................
Hey brother I have a 2013 legacy at 80k now anything I should look for?
@MrSubaru1387 I recently saw a video of someone servicing a CVT and they dropped the pan and changed out what they referred to as a filter. Is this a thing? Or is a fluid swap plenty?
Could you address the controversy about when a relearn process needs to be completed. There is a great deal of controversy about when it must be done, ie, valve body replacement vs CVT drain and replace(routine maintenance) with no symptoms of shifting problems. I highly value your opinions.
Relearn is performed when a torque converter, valve body, or entire CVT is replaced. Optional to perform with a fluid replacement.
I had my 2016 outback cvt fluid done and the dealer was only able to change 1/2 the fluid. It took forever because it had to be a certain temp and was supposed to be done in like a clean room environment! At least half of mine was changed. I'm amazed that dealers do not have the proper equipment to do it correctly.
Saw a vid of a guy doing 3 flushes using the heat exchange and some 3/8 tubing to get as much of the old stuff out as possible
@@reesestefer never flush the fluid, that will lead to sediment clogging up the solenoids
MrSubaru I have wathced your other video but this one popped up again and thought I'd ask you since learn from you how to do anyways. I have a 2012 Outback 2.5 sohc and the tr690 tranny, it was driving fine except clicking from the shifter and I knew that was the locking solenoid anyways, but the at oil temp light came on. Got the scanner tool and the duty lock up solenoids or whatever was throwing codes. It was driving fine just had been driving it 120 miles in a day here and there. Went to Subaru got the valve body and the fluid. Change them as you did in your videos, added the fluid. Went to relearn when was at temp all the good stuff followed per your instructions and the re-learn failed. The car was level and I adjusted the e-brake then as sounded like tire slipped. I then changed brakes sensor on brake pedal and the shifter to get rid of the shift lock going in and out it was always clicking. So have done pretty much everything that could be causing it and still can't figure out why it won't relearn. Had to move it no choice was in neighbors garage mine was full at time, but when I moved it not far not even far or fast enough to shift, but it did go up hill. Now I start it and it wont move when fluid is cold? What should I try now to get it to relearn? I know that can be a pain, and have been through most of it. One time when was filling the fluid it did all the sudden start gushing out the fill hole before it was full wasn't even up there yet started gushing and had to turn off loosing a quart or more. Never did that again, if you could provide some suggestions I'd be greatful.
did you get a reply?
@@heartforg No
We have a 2020 Ascent with just under 30k on it. And it is doing a weird stumbling type event every once in a while. When you take off from a stop, at maybe 10ish mph it will occasionally just fall on its face as if the engine stalled or the transmission missed a shift. Then picks itself back up and accelerates normally a half second later. I wonder if it needs a transmission relearn?
Of course this happens so random and infrequently the dealer says they can’t find anything and cannot replicate the complaint.
@MrSubaru1387 When you were refilling just before jumping into the car to run it up to temperature (9:55), I didn't see you close the fill plug. Do you leave the fill plug open while bringing the fluid up to temperature while running the car or close it first? Also, did you leave the car running while doing the final topping off of the new fluid?
Yes car is running when he does the final top off and puts fill plug back in. I believe it’s left open while coming up to temp but not sure. Another thing to keep in mind is make sure the vehicle is level when on the stand.
Def a contentious service, based on some forums I’ve read. SOA Dealers will say it’s a lifetime fluid, yet the service manual calls for regular changes at 30k or so mile intervals. How would the dealership know If I changed the fluid? Apparently if done before 100k miles, it voids the warranty
Hi there. My Suby dealer tells me that the service you perform here executed on my 2017 2.5 premium will be $900.00. Even at 150 hr and $120 for fluid, what might I be paying for? What did you charge for that service and how critical is it to perform this service. I've got 84m on it now. I generally keep my cars for 20 years or more. Thanks. Great channel.
Great video, perfect 👌
Interesting. When you first took off the fill plug, a lot of fluid came out, suggesting the level was above the plug. But, when you filled it, you were only able to put in enough fluid to start leaking out at a very minimal rate. So is the fluid level now lower than it was from the factory?
That's what I want to know as well. Also, did you measure the amount of fluid that initially drained out and how did that compare to what was put back in?
@@stephenhair5501 saya mengukur berapa liter oli yang keluar dan kasus yang sama ketika saya memasukan kembali oli yang baru ternyata takarannya tidak sama seperti ketika menguras.ada oli yang terbuang keluar dari tutup atas.apakah itu normal?saya juga ingin mengetahuinya.
Yes that’s what I said!
Wait isn’t there more fluid needed cuz a ton of fluid came out when you took the fill plug out. More then just fill to dribble out.
Excellent video on the process, which as some of us know can be royally screwed up with catastrophic results. Mr Subaru do you need TOPDON Phoenix Max for the CVT relearn or would a Phoenix Plus be sufficient?
Interesting video. Thinking about doing it on my 2017 Outback where the CVT has always been crappy, with no low-end torque since day one, but since you never respond to any of the dozens of questions posed, why should I pay attention to you?
What is this "learn process" you're talking about? How does chanigng oil change something else. What model scan tool are you using to complete this task? Thanks
a couple questions:
1. why there was fluid leaking first time you opened fill plug and it didn't for the second time?
2. is the procedure same for TR 690?
3. I got a 2010 Outback with a TR690: when driving now during winter time, when I emergency break or do a fast stop, when I get close to 10-5 km/h engine stalls(as if I in manual transmission, and forgot to press clutch when stopping), and I have to start the engine again... what could that be? in all other possible modes, the transmission works perfectly
I hope u get answers from him👍.
.....but fluid came out I'm sure because fluid was cold, if it was warmed to the correct temperature before....I bet only a light drizzle.
I guess what's important is the scan tool procedure makes sure the right amount goes in at the end🤔
It was fully cold at the beginning so fluid that would be in the torque converter in a hot transmission was in the pan. That's why you do a final fill after being the transmission up to temp at the end - makes sure it's at the right level with the torque converter warmed up too.
I really like that graphing
Great channel Mr. Subaru. Thank You. I have 2010 Outback with around 100,000 miles that has given me very little trouble. I try to do most of the maintenance on it myself. Thanks to your channel, I am convinced that it will make sense to change the CVT fluid soon. If my CVT is not giving me any issues now, is it necessary to go thru the relearn procedure? Secondly, what scanning tool would you recommend for budget-minded DIYer to use to monitor the CVT temperature to properly change the fluid? Thank you
My 2013 does the same thing. I just assumed it was normal.
"grab a 8mm hex for the fill plug...(Mr Subaru's arms start shaking as he pulls on the breaker bar)....😀
Is this pretty much the same for the 2018 Crosstrek models? Or os there a different video on this? Is the learn process necessary or can you just run through the gears at temp once you finish with the fluid exchange? As always, Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Is the relearn necessary when changing the cvt fluid on the TR690? Or only when replacing the valve body?
Thanks for another informative video. I have a question: I have a 2018 Crosstrek with 142,000 miles and the CVT transmission fluid has never been changed. I've heard that changing it now, with so many miles, can do more harm than good, is that true? I'm not having any problems with it yet.
Most people would say at this point do a drain and fill (which is usually only 5 of the 12.5 qts). A full flush wouldn't be recommended.
I have an automatic and would love MrSubaru's answer too. Too many Scotty videos make me think it can be more harm than good after too many miles. Although I think some video he suggested steadily removing some and adding more can be the way to go in that situation. I too want a more confident answer before trying anything like that. As it was one of my dad's cars before giving it to me, I'd have to ask him how long before he gave it to me that he had it done.. (So I could be close enough to schedule.)
@davidglad Which Subie? Autos and CVT are completely different. An Auto is more like a differential fluid drain and fill. A CVT is more finicky and could cause issues if overfiller or underfilled by .5 Qt for example. That's why the fluid must be in correct range of 95-113F. Temp of fluid doesn't apply to the others. Hopefully he confirms, once you confirm CVT or Auto.
Change it. But don’t flush it.
@@jparker1823 It's actually an 06 Camry, 187269+ miles of family (dad,me,brother,me) history. I have come to bond with it and want to *KEEP* it so long as it works. Likely grabbing slightly over 35 mpg on nearly all highway driving. (Helps I drive more carefully than a grandma.) At the same time I am happy to grab a second vehicle if the right opportunity comes along as my parents try to nudge me toward a new vehicle.
Subaru Canada maintenance schedule says 100,000km/5 years for CVT and differential fluid change. So I just had mine done at 98,000km and it's not the same transmission anymore. Definitely not waiting another 100,000km to have it serviced next time...
Can u force the computer to relearn without having the fancy connector tool? For example, unplug the battery for over an hour?
Curious on this as well
Not completely. There is a secondary backup battery inside the computer box. That one would need removed too, which is a complete re-learn, not just the transmission. Also voids warranty if you still got one
What kind of crush washers are needed for this change
Following up on previous comment about shudder I did 3 oil replacements, the oil that came out wasn't looking too bad, just a little on the brown side but still transparent yellow and wasn't as tacky as the new CVTF II. Reset by disconnecting battery during 1 hour after completed last refill. car operated great for about an hour in traffic then shudder came back, sounds very much like torque converter locking at low speed, no shuddering if under acceleration with a bit of gas but if low or moderate gas applied then the shuddering occurs below 35mph. What it does fills like putting a manual gearbox in 6th gear at very low speed, the engine tries to rotates all together and collapses the engine mounts instead of sending torque to the output shaft. No codes. Anyone experience this and wishes to share how the overcome that issue thanks in advance.
Never mind. You said it does on the video
Yesterday I got couldn’t get out of a parking space in my 2016 3.6 Legacy. The front wheels were on dry pavement but the rear wheels were on ice. I was going up hill. The rear wheel in the ice just spun. I have 32K miles, the car was delivered in 9/2015, and it is always parked outside. I don’t recall having any issues before. I’m in DC.
Thanks for that, can i ask if it's recommended to change to cvt pan with the (i think) integrated filter at the same time as changing the fluids? Thanks again for another informative video.
There is no serviceable filter on these, just a strainer which doesn't require replacement. Of course dropping the pan and cleaning off the magnet is a good idea once you get up there in mileage. Some people even add an extra magnet or two so they wouldn't have to drop the pan again.
@@jparker1823thanks for that, noted in the strainer Vs filter. Not owned a "traditional" automatic before, let alone a CVT, so interested in learning as much as possible on these. Appreciate the answer, regards from a cool and misty Ireland this morning!👍🍀
My wife's 2017 Subaru Outback Limited edition with 93k transmission sometimes hesitates and irritates me when I drive it. Should I take it to my local Subaru dealership, as it is still under the 100k CVT warranty that was extended for an inspection?
She loves her Outback, and our only issue with it was the battery. I replaced it with a heavy-duty AGM battery that fixed the problem.
I would, because then It will be recorded u had the issue at 93k & they looked at it.....then if they said it's all good & something happens soon after 100k, u can take it back & they can still fix it under warranty because it's a continuation of the 93k issue 🤷
You are right, and thank you for the reply. @@mrgarrison3516
Another great video. Thank you for doing this.
What was so great about it....lots of questions.
another question please - if the fluid was so dirty and the owner was unware of the history of the car, why you haven't decided to remove the CVT oil pan and clean/replace the oil filter as well? also some times its a good thing to check tightening torque of the mechatronic bolts
How many quarts did it take?
How much extra fluid did you have to add after you brought it up to proper temp? When I did mine it was 1/2 quart. I didn't have a scan tool I used a temp laser tool. Now I have a decent scan tool to use.
Usually when you bring it up to temp, the fluid expands and you lose fluid from the fill plug. For reference, I usually get 3.5 Qts in before the CVT is full. Then when you run the car, I can get another 1.5 Qts in before I lose roughly 8 onces when the fluid hits 105F. If your car is truly level. The TR580 is usually a 4Qt plus 20 once drain and fill. The TR690 is probably different.
Thanks for the quick reply @@jparker1823
Could you just measure how much came out and put the same amount back?
Can you do a video on the newer CVT on the 2019and up Subaru Ascent. There's been alot of hestiation complaints on the FB/Ascent forums about it. Mr Subaru1387
If I can get my hands on one with an issue.
Why was there so much out of fill plug at first? Over filled?
Because the engine wasn’t running, transmission pump wasn’t moving fluid, it was all drained into the pan/transmission body.
I asked the same question. I assume heat expansion (but he said the temp was cool) and a Unlevel car (but it wasn't THAT Unlevel).....
@MrSubaru1387 is this a "better" way to get more fluid out of a fluid change as opposed to two successive drain and fills, or will the "same amount" of fluid come out in one drain & fill in this method vs if the car was running?
Is this the same service that Could be done to a TR690? I have a 2020 WRX with the TR690 and it has 37K on it. No issues at all, but I would like it to stay that way. Seems like its time for a drain and refill. Would you concur?
Could you explain the "learn function" that you spoke of? Why did you want the vehicle to "learn" the customers driving style as opposed to yours?
Hey, love your quality videos. I've got a 2018 wrx limited 6mt. Bought used in 2021. Within a year of ownership, I've begun to notice hesitation during acceleration throught gears 1 through 5. Took it to dealer and they said they could find an issue vehicle was operating within parameters. The tech gave me a bottle of fuel injection cleaner but Issue not resolved. Have you come across this with wrx?
It appears from the video that the transmission was severely over filled. when you removed the fill plug the level had to be way above the top of the fill hole. Can you explain this ? Thanks
When the car is off all the oil from the tranny and torque converter settle in the pan overfilling it when you start the car the level drops because it travels through your transmission! Thats why the car has to be running and the proper temp when you top it off!
Am I able to do the same drain and fill without all the nice equipment and read outs or should I just take it to my Subaru dealer? If I can do I change anything? I noticed it took about 5-ish min for the CVT fluid to get to optimal temperature so I can use that as a gauge. Anyways, thanks for the awesome Subaru vids
Same for a 15 Crosstrek trans
I asked my local dealership if they would change the fluid on my 2017 Forester 2.5, and they said it was lifetime fluid. Is there a reason why the dealership would not want to perform this service? I have around 73000 miles on it.
They make more money when the trans kicks the bucket...
Lifetime means until your warranty runs out and most people these days done own a car over 10yrs. Lifetime is false.
@@davispaul82according to the subaru techs I know, it's 50-60k regardless of driving style.
What about the extended warranty on CVT's? It's 10 year 100,000 miles. This particular car is way over warranty so it doesn't matter, but many places on TH-cam say that CVT' fluid should be changed at 30,000 miles for long life, but if you do that, you void the factory warranty. If you don't change the fluid, you risk it dying 3 minutes after the warranty is up, costing you thousands.
Hi Robert, I recently purchased a 2022 Subaru Ascent Touring. We have previously owned a 2022 Forester and really enjoyed the car but needed something larger. Question for you on the on the Ascent, it feels as if the engine is lugging when tasking off from a stop position. Almost as if its shifting to a higher gear too fast. Is it possible this is due to the previous owners driving habits and we need to have the AT learning reset?
Hi,
is it necessary to have the screwdriver in the shift lock release? Does the car recognize it as being in diagnostics mode?
I changed my cvt fluid and topped it off to proper levels. However when I went to do a clear and relearn it wouldn't work. I am using a Foxwell NT710 on a 2019 forester sport. I think it's the Foxwell NT710. All temps and prerequisites are met. Vehicle is lifted on jack stands.
Does this mean we should NOT do this serivice on our own if we do not have the phoenix computer to relearn?
The CVT in my 2015 Outback sometimes acts different when immediately driving after a cold startup. Like it wants to rev the engine all the way to 4-5k rpm without much corresponding forward thrust. I noticed this mostly on cold days last winter. During most summer days it seems to respond better, starting to make good acceleration down in the 2-3k RPM range, then "downshifting" before it even gets anywhere near 5k. I thought it was a cold fluid quirk where it just likes to warm up first, but I started noticing it already again after some of the cooler nights in the 50s and low 60s. I'm starting to think it's an abnormal condition.
Its the engine management system trying to get the exhaust catalyst as hot as possible as quickly as possible,
@@jafa1402 That's an odd engine quirk, then. I swear, when it's trying to warm up, I can have my foot nearly to the floor with the engine reving to 5k and the car barely feels like it can get out of its own way. When it's not warming up, acceleration is just fine. Actually kind of annoying if I am on my way to work, because I tend to drive more...um..."briskly." Thanks for the info, though. It was really puzzling me.
@@prepper_nation_h watch the blue temp light. If you can get to flat ground you'll see the blue light go out and the revs drop right away but the speed stays constant.
I've learned when cold out, don't even try to drive these on the road until the blue flashing light goes off, for this exact reason. They just have zero power and do weird things until that cold light goes off. There is a lot of debate online about that dash light and what it means. If I have to drive it cold, triple your distances for pulling into traffic, and know it's not going to accelerate normally until that light goes off. If I had to guess, that's the EGR phase of startup as well, based on the added noise when trying to drive it cold.
@jafa1402 Is it normal for the blue temp light to briefly be on when first starting my car? It didn't always do it but it as been consistent for a while regardless of temp outside. I park slightly uphill too. Is it nefarious for something else? My radiator has also been replaced due to a leak and still does it.