6 year old video and still, you’ve really helped me out with this today!! - thank you for putting together such a detailed, professional and well thought out video. And with kit that’s probably now 10 years old!- LEGEND!!!
Hi great video I'm going to try that on my honda crv deisel, luckily the exaust is a bit easier to remove than yours ,I've the same problem so fingers crossed 🤞regards Frank 😊
Had probems with MK1 Skoda 1.9 where turbo cut out at 2.5k revs and went into limp mode. Did procedure. Hardest part was locating actuator rod at back of wastegas. Once found, no movement went to a cm play after 2 hours treatment. Refitted all and took car out and redlined it after 15 miles driving in 2nd then 3rd gear, then 20 mins on mway. Goes like a rocket with no problems now. Can rev to 3.5k and no cut out. MPG improved also. great video. thanks, saved at least £1000!
Thank you soooooooooo much mate. Had a quote for £700 to replace the turbo, have just finished doing this and took the car for a blast, felt great! No limp mode, and the car felt so much better. Can't thank you enough ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
@@vhallediting6551 a couple of weeks until the turbo was caked up again, had a recon turbo fitted and blanked the egr. No problems 😁 the Mr muscle did clean the turbo but didn't stop the problem
You can actually get to the top of the rod from above. This saves a lot of hard work as you can stay in the engine bay while you push the rod down and let it spring beck up. Also it's more effective to spray the mr muscle down the egr opening in the exhaust manifold - this gets it right to where it needs to be.
I totally agree with you spraying mr muscle down the egr opening in the exhaust manifold it will get it rite into the vanes only issue is its a right pain taking egr off and getting to the egr opening on the exhaust manifold wish some one done a video on it.
Having done this job a couple of times, I completely agree. Go in from the top with a length of silicon tubing attached to the can. Also push down and let spring up as dopiaza2006 says.
@@phermn Hi Peter I agree from the top is easier did you remove the black plastic pipe that goes into the turbo? I've got a golf mk5 that pipe is in the way.
Its good to know that sometimes you can fix the sticky vanes problem by just playing with the actuator rod without using the Mr.Muscle. Its how I repaired one of my TDIs. Also, every TDI should get a good thrashing on a regular base, that prevents the soot buildup.
great vid! i would make a slight modification to the procedure and cut out a piece of thick perspex using that exhaust gasket as a template and use it as a blanking plate to cover the turbo while spraying that stuff in. Put a brake bleed valve in the middle of the perspex plate, fix on the turbo with the three nuts finger tight and attach mr muscle using a small hose. Spray until it starts using out the sides. will keep most of the cleaner inside and safer.
just done my 1.9tdi Leon 09 plate. been going into limp etc and funny noises from the turbo. filled it with Mr muscle and wiggled the actuator and now it seems fixed! great video cheers
Brilliant, thanks so much for taking the time to put this together. I drive my Boxer II van too gently and the wastegate is stuck. Once I've cleared it I'll be sure to push it harder on a regular basis. Your video has impired me, thanks😊😊😊😊
I did this years ago but went in from the top through the egr port on the exhaust manifold, I used a long piece of tube, 6mm fish tank airline, glued the wd40 straw inside it and spray loads down into the turbo. Pumped the actuator. Worked a treat and less chance of snapping bolts!
@@mevio4665 yes you just push the tube down till it stops then back off a bit spray loads in leave it for say half hour spray more in and start pumping the actuator. I used a bar on top of the actuator to push down from the top. You can see the egr pipe in this video just beyond the exhaust.
Hi,man this is an excellent video.i did for my vw passat b5 tdi today.couldn't drive a mile without turbo overboost ,actuator was seized completely and now works like swiss watch.Thank you very much.
Did this on my Audi A6 tdi Quattro sport then on my old Disco 300 tdi, amazing results, especially on the old landy, she was quivering like an over excited pup after the clean, big cloud of smoke and stupendous power! Recommended!
Thank you very much for uploading such a good and easy guideline video. My car has the same problem. I’ve tested and rinsed most of the sensors and still have same problem. I need to turn of and on the car when it happens and then everything is normal again. I’m excited to try this out today 😇
We have a bora/jetta 1.9tdi and it had the problem like yours going to limp mode and losing power. So what we do is mad it on 3rd gear all the way down to the red line for a good 5 minutes of driving only on the red line 3rd gear and after that no problem with limp mode and losing power :)
Great video. If this is a consistent problem I would remove the exhaust and drill a small hole on the elbow of the down pipe. Then weld a nut and a bolt on it as an access hole. Sort of like what you see on an oxygen sensor but a lot smaller. Then in the future you just remove the bolt and spray the cleaner with the straw.
Did that with a Mondeo with the electronic actuator. Well, I drilled the hole in the manifold and tapped it to accept a M8 screw, used a McDonald's straw on some oven cleaner lol
@@DIZZYDAZZLER2011 what's the point? If it's a vehicle the turbo is a pain to get to then you can do it that way, plus you don't have to replace gaskets, manifold/flange nuts, studs etc...
Nice explanation. I've gone from the easy to the hard checks/fixes on my VW Golf TDI. My shop can't wait for me to ask them to replace the turbo, so I think the Mr Muscle fix is the next step. Your video explains things nicely.
Chris Domin Garages always suggest turbo recondition between £400-500 or replacement at between £800-1200 when most common problem on these turbos is the sticky VNT. This is a much cheaper fix, well worth trying before forking out on new turbo. Thanks for your comment - glad to be of help.
Oven cleaner is good for cleaning EGR when you get an insufficient flow error. Done it on my Golf TDI and Audi A6 3.0 TDI, worst build-up of carbon is right where the EGR enters the intake pipe to the manifold. I would suggest in the video putting the most difficult nut on after putting the other 2 on finger tight.
just got a polo pd100 tdi but with all pd130 parts... experiencing limp mode and symptoms are pointing to this issue so will give it a go and report back. good video.
Thanks Smurfy. It's a common issue which develops in these turbos, especially given they're all getting old now. I would be very surprised to find an old, high mileage PD engine which hasn't at some point developed the sticky turbo veins problem. Let us know how you get on.
Great video, I'll give it a go on my VW passat B6 2.0 tdi as it's got this very same problem -going into limp mode almost every day now. Having to stop/restart the engine to clear the fault until it happens again. Wish me luck. Lol Thanks once again!
Hi bud, i used your method to sort out my 2001 Golf 1.9 TDi as it was going into limp mode a lot and was generally sluggish in the top end, now it's like a new car! Well impressed. One thing from my car, when i poked the actuator lever at the very start it was stuck fast either opened/closed it sort of snapped the other way, then it started moving freely, so this could have sorted the problem out for me, but I decided to go the whole hog since i got all the bits, so after giving it a good Mr Muscle treatment the shite that came out the back end was amazing, it definitely shifted some carbon that's for sure and loosened the vanes up.
I got the dreaded over boost issue on my over coddled Skoda Fabia 1400 TDI. Just on 60,000 miles of mostly 2000 rpm, A road driving (60 mph for forty miles four times a week). The car has never been thrashed in its life. I looked at this job and thought I would need to do it, but before getting into it, I tried thrashing the car in low gears at 4000 rpm for five miles at a time, and on a long hill, in third, pumping the throttle on and off at about 70 to force the actuator to go on and off, in the hope I could maybe free things off. Over about three weeks, this pumping the throttle under load at about 3000 - 4000 rpm has really helped. It would obviously work the actuator and the variable vanes from hard on to right off. Anyway - fingers crossed, the limp mode issue has stopped and I can drive the car at 90 up hill now, when previously, it would go into limp mode when I tied to overtake a truck at sixty up hill. I give it a hard burst up a long hill every week now to keep it at bay. I'm sure it would go past 90, but I want to keep my license.
Hi. Done it today as well. On my 2006 Audi a6 c6. 2.0TDi. Had very rough idle and limp mode on harder acceleration and on motorway at speed 60-70mph. now car quieter ,idle ok and goes again to 120mph without any problem.
Hi. For me no more limp mode. at least not yet :D its now around 3 months. Before car was over boosting badly-very badly. I tested with Vag-com vcds and what i saw was horrible. Now ok.
I have a 22 year old Golf Mk4 1.9 PD with only 43k miles on the clock. It's my mums, and she's owned it from new, we drove it out the showroom in Hamburg....back in the day of grey imports saving approx £5k on the full UK spec purchase. It was when you could bypass the UK dealership system. Full UK spec, English handbooks, lettering on tyres etc, and of course right hand drive. We did the same a year before, my dad got a new Passat TDi automatic in 1999 from Sittard in Holland. The Golf EGR valve is grubby at worst, so that's cool. It does go into limp mode after a motorway run....so I thought sticky vanes. Yesterday I did this trick, I'm hoping it helps. It's had a 22 year old life of short journeys. I went down the route from above after removing the small EGR metal pipe. The actuator did free up nicely, but I didn't really feel it any different once I drove it. It wasn't in limp mode, but still not a night and day difference. Maybe now it won't go into limp mode again after I give it some good runs, and generally run it harder / more often....time will tell....if it is stuck vanes, why does simply switching the car off and then back on again make it run normally again for a while? Some say this trick kills oil seals? I can confirm the Mr Muscle oven cleaner does attack aluminium...I tested it on an old Subaru STi piston. Leaves a cloudy / etched finish. But then any standard 2.5 Subaru piston is only good at being a paperweight anyway lol.
It goes out of limp mode when you start it because it is overboost issue stuck vanes are only an issue when the boost pressure gets really high, which is generally when going fast up steep hills or motorway
yeah, cool repair and kuddos for taking the inconvenience of filming during working. one question, though - aren't you supposed to get the gunk out of the turbo BEFORE you reattach the exhaust, just to prevent it from occurring into catalytic converter?? Just start the car and rev it and the gunk will come out! Then reattach the exhaust.
@@RedlineRevs hey man, I've been using your videos for years. Do you have anything relating to a ceized turbo actuator on a Leon 2005 pd150? Cheers for all the effort to film bud, saved me ££££££ over the years
Just did this on my Seat Alhambra... I had the "limp mode" and a weird "over boost noise". The only difference for me was I pulled off the egr piping from below as my exhaust bolt(that tricky one) was impossible without potentially stripping it. The egr bolts however came off like a dream. I used a "pig sticker" pry bar to get the actuator to loosen expeditiously and had the whole thing done with 1 hour. I cheated though and did it up on a vehicle lift. Much Thanks for the vid!
Seems like an easy fix.. I've been quoted £1400.00 to have a new turbo fitted, sticky veins being the diagnosis ( sudden loss of power at high revs).. A fault code on the readout indicated the turbo was the problem. Whenever I get a chance I’ll have a bash at this.. Hopefully save some money……Thanks for the detailed video. Thought the problem was the MAF sensor at first but nope…..
Hi would this work on Ford focus 1.6 tdci 08 plate as I've suspected turbo problems, I'm no machanic and as it goes through system would it help unblock dpf. Cheers Tim.
For the inconvenience think it would have been easier to remove the turbocharger and strip and clean the variable vanes then you would know all the components are clean and free to move engine power restored great video
Redline Revs if u spray it into exhaust, some exhaust valves will be open, maybe change ur oil after a quick run? or start it carefully at least as it will wash the cylinders clean. although mine overboosts I think, 21psi, keep breaking hose connections.
Redline Revs sorry didn't watch whole video regarding it getting into cylinders!have u removed any tdi boost hoses before; I am changing a hose, have to unclip it...nasty idea!
Redline Revs one is on the IC itself, I just hope its a broken pipe stub and not the IC itself....the metal hose from the turbo broke at the end, then the one on the inlet manifold, now the stub pipe between ic and plastic pipe!
This might sound like a stupid question (from a non-mech), but is there any way this can be done by injecting the Mr Muscle in the air intake, after the MAF? Or this will damage something (everything?!). I cannot find a way to get under the car and spray directly into the turbo.
Oh wow excellent video ! Thanks so much for this, I think this is the problem I'm having with my 150hp 5 cylinder 2.5tdi T4 transporter (the 150hp tdi has a variable vane turbo). The turbo seems to hesitate when I accelerate in 3rd and then suddenly takes off with à great puff of black smoke from the exhaust. She won't hold speed with the cruise control going uphill on the motorway but she will accelerate if I put my foot down - again she takes off after hesitation with that puff of smoke. I've deleted the egr so I guess If I remove the blanking plate I can inject the Mr Muscle through there. I'd really appreciate any advice.
I done it over last weekend, the actuator arm squeaked when I checked it, followed your instructions every step, that nut is a right bastard to take off :) Held the exhaust with a bit of wire so it will be out the way and used masking tape on the turbo opening to cover the hole so it will keep the foam in. Turbo vane was solid which was a big relief it would have been expensive to repair. Drove it for 4 days and the symptoms are gone. Spent 7 pounds all together and 2 hours work :D On the bonus side I done some duct tape body work repair while waiting for the foam :) One of he inner plastic front wheel arch had a piece broken out of and there was a hole... Black duct tape done the job, looks like new ;D Shukran!
Hey Porkimond I appreciate you letting us know how it went. I'm glad to see this has fixed the problem for you - worked a treat for me as well. £7 well spent, saved a fortune on new turbo! Thanks again for your feedback.
Attempting this tomorrow as from the top my blanking plate is slightly different being an import and bolts were rusty. I hear going in from underneath on the hot side is not recommended but I will try it anyway so restore power limp mode loss. Wish me luck
great video!! seems just the job i need to get done.just brought a vw caddy1.9tdi and after 2500 revs its goes lame with loss of acceleration and loss of revs, finding it difficult to get up the smallest of hills. If i turn the engine off and on again its fine. If it doesn't work and the problem is still there how can I chuck out the mr muscle through the exhaust if I can't redline it?? Once again- great video!!
+themohawkmadman Thanks for your comment. Sounds like you have sticky vains problem this should help. Even if you can't redline it just drive around as hard as you can realistically exhaust gasses will incinerate the sodium hydroxide very quickly.
Fantastic mate. Thanks for posting this. I have a 58 plate Skoda Octavia 2 1.9TDi PD BXE that just this morning lost all turbo power and was creeping up the rev's. Panicked that a new turbo was on the cards but I'm gonna try this fix first. Thank you. 3 questions though if ya don't mind. 1) How do I know if I have a VNT / VGT turbo fitted? 2) Are the VNT and VGT different turbo's or the same turbo known by two different names? 3) Finally Your video was both clear and concise and looks easy enough to follow but I'm no mechanic. Would you suggest this would be suitable for someone without mechanical experience as long as they follow your instructions properly or could there be hidden problems that would require mechanic's knowledge to overcome? Thanks in advance mate. oh and by the way Liked and Subscribed. ;)
Hey Skinz, thanks so much for your comment. 1) the VW group TDIs use VNT turbos, so you will have one fitted. 2) yes, VNT and VGT are different names for the same mechanism 3) this job should be doable by anyone, even with little mechanical knowledge. However - safety is very important when under the car so please always use ramps / axle stands and wear gloves and eye protection when using Mr Muscle.
Brilliant video... I know this is a very old clip now so probs won't get a reply. I've got 2.0l tdi, 56 plate b6. Defo got the over boost problem where the car goes into limp if you rev over 3k in 5th or 6th and every now and then randomly drops power for a split second when accelerating. Is this possible on my car without removing anything else from the car? I believe the turbo is on the off side, quite close behind the off side front wheel
@Redline Revs Hi... I think that this video is solution for my problem whithout spending money that i dont hawe..... And i have 2 question... i should clean egr and intake manifold to..Can i dou it with mr muscle? i will take it off first and then sprey it. After some time i will remove foam with some old clothers... What is your opinion about that? Btw i drive 2000 Seat Cordoba 1.9 tdi 110hp (vw golf mk4 engine)... Thank u for ansvering...
I think this is a good temporary fix but after rebuilding one of these turbos I’d recommend taking it off for rebuild as it’s not just the carbon build up the vnt ring inside actually wears over time causing slack in the whole assembly.
This is probably a really dumb idea, forgive my ignorance but can't you just spray the Mr muscle in the other side and let the turbo suck it in but disconnect the pipe going back into the engine? Or does it need to go into the exhaust side?
My A3 2.0 TDI went into limp mode due to a vacuum leak the pipe that went into the vacuum resivoir split.. Amazingly no lights came on the dashboard or no codes were found. Im guessing the vacuum leak caused the vanes to stay closed as i got no grunt when flooring it.
+michael jagger I get this on my 2003 SEAT Ibiza 1.9TDI PD too. No lights , no codes just no pull. It occurs at around 2,300 rpm in fifth and higher revs in lower gears. You can just feel it go too. I've carried out a 'moving reset' by coasting and turning off/on engine on the ignition to cure it but it still comes back minutes later.
Martin Griffin . I had no power at all. I had to keep my foot planted on the floor just to gain speed. It wasn't fun climbing hills and trying to get to the national speed limit when busy. Once i fixed the vacuum leak my car it went back to normal. It was a DI during the vacuum leak then a TDI again when fixed. Your's sounds more of a mechanical issue than an electric issue since there are no lights or no codes showing. Check for splits in pipes and if there fine try turbo cleaner or something.
Hello mate. I bought a reconditioned turbo and had that fitted (passat). Have had the overboost problem ever since. Obviously I shouldn't need to clean out my turbo. The garage said the vanes/turbo were probably "done up too tight" by the turbo suppliers. Having looked at turbo specs I can't see what they would be referring too. Any ideas? Can't imagine this fix would work on mine.
I had all the symptoms mentioned here including the limp mode and error codes, and tried the mr muscle and replacing vacuum hoses to no avail, turned out the intercooler was leaking (hissing noise when revved) replaced intercooler runs perfectly again now, hope this helps .
Is it safe for catalytic converter to run the residues from Mr.Muscle and dirt through it? Or should I better start the engine without exhaust pipe connected so the dirt comes out bypassing the catalyst? Thanks
Thinking of doing this but am concerned about Mr Muscle destroying the Turbo seals, after all they are only made of rubber,surely the chemicals in Mr Muscle will eat through them,,.I done an Innotech Turbo clean at 76,000 miles on my mk4 pd150 golf last year,,now on 82,000 and helped but still occasionally going into limp mode so want to clean again,,also a Archoil AR 6600 cleaner on market that's supposed to target post combustion,,not sure what way to go,,won't Mr Muscle damage the Turbo blades and seals that keep the exhaust fumes out of the c.h.r.a. ?
+Darren Darlington sodium hydroxide will not hurt rubber or plastic, that is generally what it is contained in. i use this a lot at work to clean, keep it away from aluminum as it will react and eat it. it will also destroy paint and surface coatings. it should be okay for turbos as most are metal sealed or have a high temp teflon. hope this was helpful.
Hi there iam stu in the uk 🇬🇧 good video will this clean all the turbo fan inside the housing? and would it be OK to keep the mr muscle in there over night thank you ps I will getting a vw golf tdi 1.9 2007 mk5 the turbo is a bit down thank you
This worked on a 2000 TDI Beetle used Easy Off Oven Cleaner w Lye. I too had a P1557 over boost code. Cost me $4 U.S. thanks so much, Dave! Also used similiar style ramps also!
Chris Salter thanks Chris, hope this helps you. There's only about an inch or so of travel in the actuator, just keep going at it as hard as you can for as long as you're under there. it should get looser as you go on.
Redline Revs Thanks that explains a lot, im only getting about a centimetre of travel, ive got a complete spare turbo on a donor car i bought but im not quite ready to expose the engine innards to the damp weather as i intend to fully rebuild it, so i just wanted to cure the overboost/limp mode that ive been getting, looks like this is the key 🙂
is that travel while engine is running or actuator is connected...could be your actuator instead of the veins themselves...by actuator doesnt travel much but when taken off the veins move freely
mannerz91 the actuators brand new, ive screwed it out a couple of threads so that its constantly trying to push the lever up, its alleviated the limp mode a little as the turbo now kicks in a little later, ive got a spare turbo on a donor car, its just finding time to remove it and give it a once over before i swap them over
Nice video, good thing the exaust is bolted on to the turbo, unlike Opel (vauxhall in UK) wich as a F...g metalic clamp hard to get out without special pliers. Anyway i agree with the Mr Muscle that is also good to clean the intake manifold (p.s: don't use flames into an aluminium intake like i have already wachted WTF!!!!) i just think that the WD40 will do nothing to the inside pans because it doesn't as direct access to them, but it will work good on the rod of the actuator. I saw in the begining of the video some oil near the actuator am i right? If so you might try to see the oil lub gasquet is not dead because that can cause also a limp mode and it can also send to much oil into the air intake. Anyway nice video thanks
Is the lambda sensor anywhere near this end of your exhaust? I'm just wondering if the Mr Muscle might damage the lambda if it get on it during the first drive? Thanks for making video
Going to try and use a throttle body cleaner that ha a 360 spray nozzle and see if I can get it deeper in And hit all sides as this seems harder to reach everywhere.
... wouldn't it be possible to drill a small hole into exhaust pipe as close as possible to turbo, just to fit WD-40 straw pump mr muscle in and put a small self tapping screw in place to close the hole. Would make it easier to redo the cleaning process from time to time
Done this to mine yesterday I removed the dpf which is fully deleted/empty to removed the sensor from dpf and pushed my hose right into the turbo only left the mr muscle in for 30mins and never pulled the actuator because it’s virtually impossible to get to the actuator 🤬 Audi A3 Quattro 170, stage 2 mapped. No errors but under boosting intermittently and doing my head in, gonna do it again tomoz and do my best to pull down on the actuator why I’ve got a day off work 👌 hopefully free it up
Hello bro ... i have a a4 b5 tdi and my turbo geometry is stuck! Can i do your metod without removing the exaust pipe?? Can i do in egr colector connection? Regards from Portugal Very thanks 💪
I have issue with my 08 rdx you may be able to figure out. driving me bonkers. I got it for a steal at the auction. Throwing p2263 code and p0420 and a underboost code p0299. Acura dealer had serviced the car it’s whole life. One owner. The lady had 176k miles and was already lookin at a new rdx. She brought it in because it was running slow on acceleration and not going past 1/4 of the way in boost gauge. The car runs and drives good but very slow and anything past 50% throttle and it feels like even more restriction. Lower throttle works ok just very slow. Sometimes randomly it will have a little more pep than others. I’ve checked for boost leaks. Replaced the maf. Reset the ecu. It did this worse with stock intake I Even got a aftermarket intake which actually helped keep the code from coming back as soon. But didn’t help power much. You can hear the turbo spool. In neutral it wil rev fast an no issue but no boost showing on gauge in park or neutral just builds in driving mode and builds and drops off when it shifts like normal but low. I’m seeing on my code scanner the cat temp gets up to 1300deg and when sitting it’s like 800ish. I see the 02 sensor voltage fluctuate a lot when i rev it. Not sure what it’s supposed to be. I wouldn’t think an 02 would make a dealer say bad turbo and cause this much issue but the master tech at Sutton told them it was the turbo itself. I just find it hard to think it’s the whole turbo. Feels more like stuck wastgate or clogged cat or something. I have never removed a turbo and I don’t want to mess anything up or throw money at it without knowing for sure what’s wrong. The actuator is like 230$. New cats are 275 I think. And a catless down pipe is 400. Refurbished turbo is 800$ on eBay. Used is 650. Any advise? I feel like if the turbo is bad it wouldn’t spool so quick to 1/4 boost and stop. It’s like an actuator or something flow control is stopping it. The rod ends look fine.
My vgt rod is very difficult to move, it is like it has a spring which pushes it back, is there a way to disconnect something so I could move it to work out the vanes area? Otherwise it is very hard. Thank you
How long does this last I have a golf gt tdi and it’s over boosting around 60mph. Turbo is only 5 yrs old trouble is because egr runs through turbo it builds carbon on it.
wouldn’t it be good too loosen while its hot tho ,,,, works a treat for me and also did my exhaust mani on my fez st150 2006 to date few month ago came off no problem bita heat works a treat
Hi I’ve done this job but went but more into it inlet egr valve cleaning now I’ve unplug all valves ng18 75 other don’t no plugs go on any chance any help can’t wait start car see if improve it
Drive your car with gusto once or twice a week, keep your vanes free and clean... don't potter around in diesels like a granny. Aim for 2500rpm regularly keep things clean!
hi great vid do you know if you can have sticky vanes and not go into limp mode i have very little power till bout 2.5k then turbo kicks in a little till 3.5k then dies off iv checked maf sensor n75 valve and boost leak all seems fine car does not go into limp mode but driving up a hill in 1st and 2nd car just sits bout 1.5k-2k foot planted 2 the floor it just wont rev i have a 2002 vw mk4 golf tdi pd150 a reply would be awesome thx
Great video, very descriptive. I've just got rid of my 320CD and picked up a Volvo V50 as it's a lot more spacious for my fishing kit. It's got 120K miles on the clock. Would it be worth doing this on it or just leave it for now, until it causes me jip? Cheers
6 year old video and still, you’ve really helped me out with this today!! - thank you for putting together such a detailed, professional and well thought out video. And with kit that’s probably now 10 years old!- LEGEND!!!
Hi great video I'm going to try that on my honda crv deisel, luckily the exaust is a bit easier to remove than yours ,I've the same problem so fingers crossed 🤞regards Frank 😊
Same here. I'm gonna do my TDI soon and my friend has two tdi Jettas gonna make it a routine yearly
Had probems with MK1 Skoda 1.9 where turbo cut out at 2.5k revs and went into limp mode. Did procedure. Hardest part was locating actuator rod at back of wastegas. Once found, no movement went to a cm play after 2 hours treatment. Refitted all and took car out and redlined it after 15 miles driving in 2nd then 3rd gear, then 20 mins on mway. Goes like a rocket with no problems now. Can rev to 3.5k and no cut out. MPG improved also. great video. thanks, saved at least £1000!
What do you mean with cm play
I think he meant that the rod went from a state of no movement to a state where it could move about a centimeter up and down
Thank you soooooooooo much mate. Had a quote for £700 to replace the turbo, have just finished doing this and took the car for a blast, felt great! No limp mode, and the car felt so much better. Can't thank you enough ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Did it last?
@@vhallediting6551 a couple of weeks until the turbo was caked up again, had a recon turbo fitted and blanked the egr. No problems 😁 the Mr muscle did clean the turbo but didn't stop the problem
You can actually get to the top of the rod from above. This saves a lot of hard work as you can stay in the engine bay while you push the rod down and let it spring beck up. Also it's more effective to spray the mr muscle down the egr opening in the exhaust manifold - this gets it right to where it needs to be.
Boss i need ur help
Any video showing how to ?
I totally agree with you spraying mr muscle down the egr opening in the exhaust manifold it will get it rite into the vanes only issue is its a right pain taking egr off and getting to the egr opening on the exhaust manifold wish some one done a video on it.
Having done this job a couple of times, I completely agree. Go in from the top with a length of silicon tubing attached to the can. Also push down and let spring up as dopiaza2006 says.
@@phermn Hi Peter I agree from the top is easier did you remove the black plastic pipe that goes into the turbo? I've got a golf mk5 that pipe is in the way.
Its good to know that sometimes you can fix the sticky vanes problem by just playing with the actuator rod without using the Mr.Muscle. Its how I repaired one of my TDIs. Also, every TDI should get a good thrashing on a regular base, that prevents the soot buildup.
Hi really? without mr muscle just by moving the rod does that work?
No need to Thrash the car, just do a EGR delete, job done and never blocks up again.
@@lolorick5885 but what we'll we do without thrashing? 😁 My egrs all work well, haven't deleted them..
great vid!
i would make a slight modification to the procedure and cut out a piece of thick perspex using that exhaust gasket as a template and use it as a blanking plate to cover the turbo while spraying that stuff in. Put a brake bleed valve in the middle of the perspex plate, fix on the turbo with the three nuts finger tight and attach mr muscle using a small hose. Spray until it starts using out the sides.
will keep most of the cleaner inside and safer.
Zappa I would slightly modify this also don’t do it
Great idea; a ~~square piece with the 3 holes and a center one for a vacuum tubing insertion,snug fit, sounds good; beats R&R the turbo!
Turbo is on the other side...
yea good point but if you care about your car and don't want to get that stuff through your engine you should do it this way instead
just done my 1.9tdi Leon 09 plate.
been going into limp etc and funny noises from the turbo.
filled it with Mr muscle and wiggled the actuator and now it seems fixed!
great video cheers
Really glad this helped, Dax. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Can you tell for how long did the fix last? :)
@@Scholltyshe about a month tbh
Wynns turbo cleaner is now brilliant,great video
Brilliant, thanks so much for taking the time to put this together. I drive my Boxer II van too gently and the wastegate is stuck. Once I've cleared it I'll be sure to push it harder on a regular basis.
Your video has impired me, thanks😊😊😊😊
Thank you for taking the time to comment!
I did this years ago but went in from the top through the egr port on the exhaust manifold, I used a long piece of tube, 6mm fish tank airline, glued the wd40 straw inside it and spray loads down into the turbo. Pumped the actuator. Worked a treat and less chance of snapping bolts!
Nice! I wanna do the same. How long did it last? Did the tube reach the turbo? Thanks.
@@mevio4665 yes you just push the tube down till it stops then back off a bit spray loads in leave it for say half hour spray more in and start pumping the actuator. I used a bar on top of the actuator to push down from the top. You can see the egr pipe in this video just beyond the exhaust.
@@marcogarofalo6343 Many thanks for sharing your experience! Will follow your advice.
is their any video on how to go through the egr port on exhaust manifold? did you had to remove the egr valve?
@@shakeeloniel8891 no just the gold looking pipe from the in between the egr and exhaust
Hi,man this is an excellent video.i did for my vw passat b5 tdi today.couldn't drive a mile without turbo overboost ,actuator was seized completely and now works like swiss watch.Thank you very much.
So glad this helped, Dom. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Did this on my Audi A6 tdi Quattro sport then on my old Disco 300 tdi, amazing results, especially on the old landy, she was quivering like an over excited pup after the clean, big cloud of smoke and stupendous power! Recommended!
steve asquith Really glad that it helped Steve, thanks for taking the time to leave your feedback!
Thank you very much for uploading such a good and easy guideline video. My car has the same problem. I’ve tested and rinsed most of the sensors and still have same problem. I need to turn of and on the car when it happens and then everything is normal again. I’m excited to try this out today 😇
thanks man...I tried this today and it worked. I have no more limp mode and power has been restored.. brilliant video. many thanks bro.
Glad it worked bro, thanks for taking the time to comment.
Can you tell for how long did the fix last? :)
Good tip. U can get to all the down pipe bolts and everything from the top. Less risk of getting anything on u. No laying in the dirt.
You explain things really well and are easy to follow, great video. Keep It up
+Aqib Ahmed Thanks for your support bro.
We have a bora/jetta 1.9tdi and it had the problem like yours going to limp mode and losing power. So what we do is mad it on 3rd gear all the way down to the red line for a good 5 minutes of driving only on the red line 3rd gear and after that no problem with limp mode and losing power :)
Good way to blow your gaskets
Great video. If this is a consistent problem I would remove the exhaust and drill a small hole on the elbow of the down pipe. Then weld a nut and a bolt on it as an access hole. Sort of like what you see on an oxygen sensor but a lot smaller. Then in the future you just remove the bolt and spray the cleaner with the straw.
+1966badnova
Agree!
Also you can use that same hole and install a thermocouple and install a pyrometer to monitor EGTs. :-)
You are a fcking genious!!! You gave me an brilliant idea omg!!! You are the man! I cant remove the bolts,to old and rusty!
Did that with a Mondeo with the electronic actuator. Well, I drilled the hole in the manifold and tapped it to accept a M8 screw, used a McDonald's straw on some oven cleaner lol
Just take the bloody turbo off and clean it??? all this faffing around ffs
@@DIZZYDAZZLER2011 what's the point? If it's a vehicle the turbo is a pain to get to then you can do it that way, plus you don't have to replace gaskets, manifold/flange nuts, studs etc...
Nice explanation. I've gone from the easy to the hard checks/fixes on my VW Golf TDI. My shop can't wait for me to ask them to replace the turbo, so I think the Mr Muscle fix is the next step. Your video explains things nicely.
Chris Domin Garages always suggest turbo recondition between £400-500 or replacement at between £800-1200 when most common problem on these turbos is the sticky VNT. This is a much cheaper fix, well worth trying before forking out on new turbo. Thanks for your comment - glad to be of help.
Very good video, precisely explained despite the dodgy head cam.
Oven cleaner is good for cleaning EGR when you get an insufficient flow error. Done it on my Golf TDI and Audi A6 3.0 TDI, worst build-up of carbon is right where the EGR enters the intake pipe to the manifold. I would suggest in the video putting the most difficult nut on after putting the other 2 on finger tight.
just got a polo pd100 tdi but with all pd130 parts... experiencing limp mode and symptoms are pointing to this issue so will give it a go and report back. good video.
Thanks Smurfy. It's a common issue which develops in these turbos, especially given they're all getting old now. I would be very surprised to find an old, high mileage PD engine which hasn't at some point developed the sticky turbo veins problem. Let us know how you get on.
Great video, I'll give it a go on my VW passat B6 2.0 tdi as it's got this very same problem -going into limp mode almost every day now. Having to stop/restart the engine to clear the fault until it happens again. Wish me luck. Lol
Thanks once again!
Hi bud, i used your method to sort out my 2001 Golf 1.9 TDi as it was going into limp mode a lot and was generally sluggish in the top end, now it's like a new car! Well impressed.
One thing from my car, when i poked the actuator lever at the very start it was stuck fast either opened/closed it sort of snapped the other way, then it started moving freely, so this could have sorted the problem out for me, but I decided to go the whole hog since i got all the bits, so after giving it a good Mr Muscle treatment the shite that came out the back end was amazing, it definitely shifted some carbon that's for sure and loosened the vanes up.
Really glad this helped, thanks for taking the time to comment.
I got the dreaded over boost issue on my over coddled Skoda Fabia 1400 TDI. Just on 60,000 miles of mostly 2000 rpm, A road driving (60 mph for forty miles four times a week). The car has never been thrashed in its life. I looked at this job and thought I would need to do it, but before getting into it, I tried thrashing the car in low gears at 4000 rpm for five miles at a time, and on a long hill, in third, pumping the throttle on and off at about 70 to force the actuator to go on and off, in the hope I could maybe free things off. Over about three weeks, this pumping the throttle under load at about 3000 - 4000 rpm has really helped. It would obviously work the actuator and the variable vanes from hard on to right off. Anyway - fingers crossed, the limp mode issue has stopped and I can drive the car at 90 up hill now, when previously, it would go into limp mode when I tied to overtake a truck at sixty up hill. I give it a hard burst up a long hill every week now to keep it at bay. I'm sure it would go past 90, but I want to keep my license.
Great video brother. Very clear and precise instructions. Well done. Guna do this on my 2.0tdi passat. Thanks for sharing. Respect.
followed this video at weekend I've got the same car mk1 Leon cupra pd150 wow what a difference cheers for the video mate
Really glad this helped Shaun. And thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hi. Done it today as well. On my 2006 Audi a6 c6. 2.0TDi. Had very rough idle and limp mode on harder acceleration and on motorway at speed 60-70mph. now car quieter ,idle ok and goes again to 120mph without any problem.
Really glad this helped. Thanks for commenting.
Hi. For me no more limp mode. at least not yet :D its now around 3 months. Before car was over boosting badly-very badly. I tested with Vag-com vcds and what i saw was horrible. Now ok.
Can you tell for how long did the fix last? :)
I have a 22 year old Golf Mk4 1.9 PD with only 43k miles on the clock. It's my mums, and she's owned it from new, we drove it out the showroom in Hamburg....back in the day of grey imports saving approx £5k on the full UK spec purchase. It was when you could bypass the UK dealership system. Full UK spec, English handbooks, lettering on tyres etc, and of course right hand drive. We did the same a year before, my dad got a new Passat TDi automatic in 1999 from Sittard in Holland.
The Golf EGR valve is grubby at worst, so that's cool. It does go into limp mode after a motorway run....so I thought sticky vanes. Yesterday I did this trick, I'm hoping it helps. It's had a 22 year old life of short journeys.
I went down the route from above after removing the small EGR metal pipe. The actuator did free up nicely, but I didn't really feel it any different once I drove it. It wasn't in limp mode, but still not a night and day difference.
Maybe now it won't go into limp mode again after I give it some good runs, and generally run it harder / more often....time will tell....if it is stuck vanes, why does simply switching the car off and then back on again make it run normally again for a while?
Some say this trick kills oil seals? I can confirm the Mr Muscle oven cleaner does attack aluminium...I tested it on an old Subaru STi piston. Leaves a cloudy / etched finish. But then any standard 2.5 Subaru piston is only good at being a paperweight anyway lol.
It goes out of limp mode when you start it because it is overboost issue stuck vanes are only an issue when the boost pressure gets really high, which is generally when going fast up steep hills or motorway
yeah, cool repair and kuddos for taking the inconvenience of filming during working. one question, though - aren't you supposed to get the gunk out of the turbo BEFORE you reattach the exhaust, just to prevent it from occurring into catalytic converter?? Just start the car and rev it and the gunk will come out! Then reattach the exhaust.
That sounds like a good idea for people who are worried about their catalytic converters. Thanks for the contribution.
@@RedlineRevs hey man, I've been using your videos for years. Do you have anything relating to a ceized turbo actuator on a Leon 2005 pd150?
Cheers for all the effort to film bud, saved me ££££££ over the years
Just did this on my Seat Alhambra... I had the "limp mode" and a weird "over boost noise". The only difference for me was I pulled off the egr piping from below as my exhaust bolt(that tricky one) was impossible without potentially stripping it. The egr bolts however came off like a dream. I used a "pig sticker" pry bar to get the actuator to loosen expeditiously and had the whole thing done with 1 hour. I cheated though and did it up on a vehicle lift. Much Thanks for the vid!
this vid saved me 200 euros!
Seems like an easy fix.. I've been quoted £1400.00 to have a new turbo fitted, sticky veins being the diagnosis ( sudden loss of power at high revs).. A fault code on the readout indicated the turbo was the problem. Whenever I get a chance I’ll have a bash at this.. Hopefully save some money……Thanks for the detailed video. Thought the problem was the MAF sensor at first but nope…..
+Donk67 justabloke Glad this has been informative please let us know how you got on.
Donk67 justabloke n
Hi would this work on Ford focus 1.6 tdci 08 plate as I've suspected turbo problems, I'm no machanic and as it goes through system would it help unblock dpf.
Cheers Tim.
,,
For the inconvenience think it would have been easier to remove the turbocharger and strip and clean the variable vanes then you would know all the components are clean and free to move engine power restored great video
What he did is incredibly easy and accessible. Removing the turbo, taking it apart, and cleaning it would take considerably longer.
@@Flopsaurus well yes true but how long would it last before it would want doing again
A great help in this video! Today I did it and finally everything is perfect again! A big thank you!
János Tóth I'm very happy to know that this helped you too. Thanks for taking the time to leave your feedback.
Redline Revs if u spray it into exhaust, some exhaust valves will be open, maybe change ur oil after a quick run? or start it carefully at least as it will wash the cylinders clean. although mine overboosts I think, 21psi, keep breaking hose connections.
Redline Revs sorry didn't watch whole video regarding it getting into cylinders!have u removed any tdi boost hoses before; I am changing a hose, have to unclip it...nasty idea!
Hey, you need wide opening monkey pliars / wrench to get at some of the boost hoses, those clips can be in tircky positions.
Redline Revs one is on the IC itself, I just hope its a broken pipe stub and not the IC itself....the metal hose from the turbo broke at the end, then the one on the inlet manifold, now the stub pipe between ic and plastic pipe!
This might sound like a stupid question (from a non-mech), but is there any way this can be done by injecting the Mr Muscle in the air intake, after the MAF? Or this will damage something (everything?!).
I cannot find a way to get under the car and spray directly into the turbo.
Just tried this on my VW Touran TDI , worked a treat !
MANY THANKS
Aaron50001 I'm glad this helped, thanks for taking the time to comment!
Oh wow excellent video !
Thanks so much for this, I think this is the problem I'm having with my 150hp 5 cylinder 2.5tdi T4 transporter (the 150hp tdi has a variable vane turbo).
The turbo seems to hesitate when I accelerate in 3rd and then suddenly takes off with à great puff of black smoke from the exhaust. She won't hold speed with the cruise control going uphill on the motorway but she will accelerate if I put my foot down - again she takes off after hesitation with that puff of smoke.
I've deleted the egr so I guess If I remove the blanking plate I can inject the Mr Muscle through there. I'd really appreciate any advice.
Perfect video thank you,.Golf mk5 is glitchy on power so I'm going to try this when I've got the plastic engine tray off for its oil change.
Thanks for the upload, I got a Leon fr too playing up ill do it over the weekend!
Thanks for watching, hope this helps. Let us know how you got on.
I done it over last weekend, the actuator arm squeaked when I checked it, followed your instructions every step, that nut is a right bastard to take off :)
Held the exhaust with a bit of wire so it will be out the way and used masking tape on the turbo opening to cover the hole so it will keep the foam in.
Turbo vane was solid which was a big relief it would have been expensive to repair.
Drove it for 4 days and the symptoms are gone. Spent 7 pounds all together and 2 hours work :D
On the bonus side I done some duct tape body work repair while waiting for the foam :)
One of he inner plastic front wheel arch had a piece broken out of and there was a hole... Black duct tape done the job, looks like new ;D
Shukran!
Hey Porkimond I appreciate you letting us know how it went. I'm glad to see this has fixed the problem for you - worked a treat for me as well. £7 well spent, saved a fortune on new turbo! Thanks again for your feedback.
I did this today on my ford galaxy mk2 1.9 tdi and it worked a treat thank you for the video saved me alot of money.
Hi Martin, thank you for taking the time to comment, really glad this helped with your Galaxy 1.9tdi!
Attempting this tomorrow as from the top my blanking plate is slightly different being an import and bolts were rusty. I hear going in from underneath on the hot side is not recommended but I will try it anyway so restore power limp mode loss. Wish me luck
Hi Richard, thanks for the post, How it went? I wanna do the same thing as you.
Excellent video, very clear instructions. Thanks
Thank you for your comment akhi
isn't it bad when that mr muscle stuff gets into the intake manifold through egr pipe after the start of the engine ?
Cheers m8 my car is alive again!!! 🤜🤛
Can this be sprayed into the vacuum line connector to the turbo?
great video!! seems just the job i need to get done.just brought a vw caddy1.9tdi and after 2500 revs its goes lame with loss of acceleration and loss of revs, finding it difficult to get up the smallest of hills. If i turn the engine off and on again its fine.
If it doesn't work and the problem is still there how can I chuck out the mr muscle through the exhaust if I can't redline it??
Once again- great video!!
+themohawkmadman Thanks for your comment. Sounds like you have sticky vains problem this should help. Even if you can't redline it just drive around as hard as you can realistically exhaust gasses will incinerate the sodium hydroxide very quickly.
tried and tested 100% works cheers
Very Good. Are the veins on the Exhaust/Turbine side Or Air Compressor side of the Turbo?
Fantastic mate. Thanks for posting this. I have a 58 plate Skoda Octavia 2 1.9TDi PD BXE that just this morning lost all turbo power and was creeping up the rev's. Panicked that a new turbo was on the cards but I'm gonna try this fix first. Thank you. 3 questions though if ya don't mind.
1) How do I know if I have a VNT / VGT turbo fitted?
2) Are the VNT and VGT different turbo's or the same turbo known by two different names?
3) Finally Your video was both clear and concise and looks easy enough to follow but I'm no mechanic. Would you suggest this would be suitable for someone without mechanical experience as long as they follow your instructions properly or could there be hidden problems that would require mechanic's knowledge to overcome?
Thanks in advance mate. oh and by the way Liked and Subscribed. ;)
Hey Skinz, thanks so much for your comment.
1) the VW group TDIs use VNT turbos, so you will have one fitted.
2) yes, VNT and VGT are different names for the same mechanism
3) this job should be doable by anyone, even with little mechanical knowledge. However - safety is very important when under the car so please always use ramps / axle stands and wear gloves and eye protection when using Mr Muscle.
Cheers buddy, will do
Brilliant video... I know this is a very old clip now so probs won't get a reply. I've got 2.0l tdi, 56 plate b6. Defo got the over boost problem where the car goes into limp if you rev over 3k in 5th or 6th and every now and then randomly drops power for a split second when accelerating. Is this possible on my car without removing anything else from the car? I believe the turbo is on the off side, quite close behind the off side front wheel
@Redline Revs Hi... I think that this video is solution for my problem whithout spending money that i dont hawe..... And i have 2 question... i should clean egr and intake manifold to..Can i dou it with mr muscle? i will take it off first and then sprey it. After some time i will remove foam with some old clothers... What is your opinion about that? Btw i drive 2000 Seat Cordoba 1.9 tdi 110hp (vw golf mk4 engine)... Thank u for ansvering...
After 2 years what happened, зny problems with the car? How is the turbo?
I think this is a good temporary fix but after rebuilding one of these turbos I’d recommend taking it off for rebuild as it’s not just the carbon build up the vnt ring inside actually wears over time causing slack in the whole assembly.
Thanks for posting, just got the thread from SCN. My car has had the exact same issue, annoys the hell out of me!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is probably a really dumb idea, forgive my ignorance but can't you just spray the Mr muscle in the other side and let the turbo suck it in but disconnect the pipe going back into the engine? Or does it need to go into the exhaust side?
Can we do a more practical operation by attaching a screw to the exhaust pipe instead of removing the screws.
My A3 2.0 TDI went into limp mode due to a vacuum leak the pipe that went into the vacuum resivoir split.. Amazingly no lights came on the dashboard or no codes were found. Im guessing the vacuum leak caused the vanes to stay closed as i got no grunt when flooring it.
+michael jagger I get this on my 2003 SEAT Ibiza 1.9TDI PD too. No lights , no codes just no pull. It occurs at around 2,300 rpm in fifth and higher revs in lower gears. You can just feel it go too. I've carried out a 'moving reset' by coasting and turning off/on engine on the ignition to cure it but it still comes back minutes later.
Martin Griffin . I had no power at all. I had to keep my foot planted on the floor just to gain speed. It wasn't fun climbing hills and trying to get to the national speed limit when busy. Once i fixed the vacuum leak my car it went back to normal. It was a DI during the vacuum leak then a TDI again when fixed. Your's sounds more of a mechanical issue than an electric issue since there are no lights or no codes showing. Check for splits in pipes and if there fine try turbo cleaner or something.
Outstanding video. Concise and thorough. Many thanks. x
Hello mate. I bought a reconditioned turbo and had that fitted (passat). Have had the overboost problem ever since. Obviously I shouldn't need to clean out my turbo. The garage said the vanes/turbo were probably "done up too tight" by the turbo suppliers. Having looked at turbo specs I can't see what they would be referring too. Any ideas? Can't imagine this fix would work on mine.
I had all the symptoms mentioned here including the limp mode and error codes, and tried the mr muscle and replacing vacuum hoses to no avail, turned out the intercooler was leaking (hissing noise when revved) replaced intercooler runs perfectly again now, hope this helps .
Was that expensive?
Is it safe for catalytic converter to run the residues from Mr.Muscle and dirt through it? Or should I better start the engine without exhaust pipe connected so the dirt comes out bypassing the catalyst? Thanks
It's not dirt it is carbon, being Diesel it will have a DPF which is designed to trap carbon and burn it anyway.
Thinking of doing this but am concerned about Mr Muscle destroying the Turbo seals, after all they are only made of rubber,surely the chemicals in Mr Muscle will eat through them,,.I done an Innotech Turbo clean at 76,000 miles on my mk4 pd150 golf last year,,now on 82,000 and helped but still occasionally going into limp mode so want to clean again,,also a Archoil AR 6600 cleaner on market that's supposed to target post combustion,,not sure what way to go,,won't Mr Muscle damage the Turbo blades and seals that keep the exhaust fumes out of the c.h.r.a. ?
+Darren Darlington sodium hydroxide will not hurt rubber or plastic, that is generally what it is contained in. i use this a lot at work to clean, keep it away from aluminum as it will react and eat it. it will also destroy paint and surface coatings. it should be okay for turbos as most are metal sealed or have a high temp teflon. hope this was helpful.
Hi there iam stu in the uk 🇬🇧 good video will this clean all the turbo fan inside the housing? and would it be OK to keep the mr muscle in there over night thank you ps I will getting a vw golf tdi 1.9 2007 mk5 the turbo is a bit down thank you
Hi! Great video, will be doing this tomorrow! How many times do you squirt the mr muscle in? Just once until it's seeping or a few times? Thanks
This worked on a 2000 TDI Beetle used Easy Off Oven Cleaner w Lye. I too had a P1557 over boost code. Cost me $4 U.S. thanks so much, Dave! Also used similiar style ramps also!
It worked for me-a big THANK YOU !
Glad to see this is still helping people. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Gonna try this at week end hopefully it will sort my lag out can’t be anything else
Great video, im having a lot of issue with my turbo, how much travel should there be in the vnt lever?
Chris Salter thanks Chris, hope this helps you. There's only about an inch or so of travel in the actuator, just keep going at it as hard as you can for as long as you're under there. it should get looser as you go on.
Redline Revs Thanks that explains a lot, im only getting about a centimetre of travel, ive got a complete spare turbo on a donor car i bought but im not quite ready to expose the engine innards to the damp weather as i intend to fully rebuild it, so i just wanted to cure the overboost/limp mode that ive been getting, looks like this is the key 🙂
is that travel while engine is running or actuator is connected...could be your actuator instead of the veins themselves...by actuator doesnt travel much but when taken off the veins move freely
mannerz91 the actuators brand new, ive screwed it out a couple of threads so that its constantly trying to push the lever up, its alleviated the limp mode a little as the turbo now kicks in a little later, ive got a spare turbo on a donor car, its just finding time to remove it and give it a once over before i swap them over
Can you just move the actuator rod by hand if everything is fine? Or do you need pliers or some tool? Thanks
Nice video, good thing the exaust is bolted on to the turbo, unlike Opel (vauxhall in UK) wich as a F...g metalic clamp hard to get out without special pliers. Anyway i agree with the Mr Muscle that is also good to clean the intake manifold (p.s: don't use flames into an aluminium intake like i have already wachted WTF!!!!) i just think that the WD40 will do nothing to the inside pans because it doesn't as direct access to them, but it will work good on the rod of the actuator. I saw in the begining of the video some oil near the actuator am i right? If so you might try to see the oil lub gasquet is not dead because that can cause also a limp mode and it can also send to much oil into the air intake. Anyway nice video thanks
I wonder if this chemical could damage the turbo seals or the catalytic converter.
That's a good question, for which I also like to have an answer
Oven cleaner is nasty but it does get rid of carbon build up ive cleaned out my BKD manifold and EGR valve with this.
Mr muscolo best cleaner, bravo
Is the lambda sensor anywhere near this end of your exhaust? I'm just wondering if the Mr Muscle might damage the lambda if it get on it during the first drive?
Thanks for making video
No Lambda on a TDI
Going to try and use a throttle body cleaner that ha a 360 spray nozzle and see if I can get it deeper in And hit all sides as this seems harder to reach everywhere.
You really are working in the worst of conditions!I'd crack up
... wouldn't it be possible to drill a small hole into exhaust pipe as close as possible to turbo, just to fit WD-40 straw pump mr muscle in and put a small self tapping screw in place to close the hole. Would make it easier to redo the cleaning process from time to time
Done this to mine yesterday I removed the dpf which is fully deleted/empty to removed the sensor from dpf and pushed my hose right into the turbo only left the mr muscle in for 30mins and never pulled the actuator because it’s virtually impossible to get to the actuator 🤬 Audi A3 Quattro 170, stage 2 mapped. No errors but under boosting intermittently and doing my head in, gonna do it again tomoz and do my best to pull down on the actuator why I’ve got a day off work 👌 hopefully free it up
Would this work on the bsy 2ltr vag engines turbo I believe it’s a Garret turbo
Great video. Very helpful - thanks
+Glenn Hargreaves Thank you so much for taking the time to show your support.
Hello bro ... i have a a4 b5 tdi and my turbo geometry is stuck! Can i do your metod without removing the exaust pipe?? Can i do in egr colector connection?
Regards from Portugal
Very thanks 💪
What about damaging the seals? Mine is 23 years old with 326,000 miles on it.
How big is your downpipe and all exhaust?
Did you make your downpipe yourself?
Hello i will try this metod on my Leon1.9 ARl.When car have 3000RPM turbo is stuck i give answer in this week
Hi again,GREAT news today i used mr muscle and wait 2h, no more limp mode mr muscle help thx for video CHEERS!
What symptoms was before you decided what problem is there?
I want to clean mine while it's disassembled. Pretty sure my problem is the sensor since I randomly get too high, too low or invalid boost codes.
would this work for 04 passat awx engine? it's the 130pd? thanks jeff
I have issue with my 08 rdx you may be able to figure out. driving me bonkers. I got it for a steal at the auction. Throwing p2263 code and p0420 and a underboost code p0299. Acura dealer had serviced the car it’s whole life. One owner. The lady had 176k miles and was already lookin at a new rdx. She brought it in because it was running slow on acceleration and not going past 1/4 of the way in boost gauge.
The car runs and drives good but very slow and anything past 50% throttle and it feels like even more restriction. Lower throttle works ok just very slow. Sometimes randomly it will have a little more pep than others.
I’ve checked for boost leaks. Replaced the maf. Reset the ecu. It did this worse with stock intake I Even got a aftermarket intake which actually helped keep the code from coming back as soon. But didn’t help power much. You can hear the turbo spool. In neutral it wil rev fast an no issue but no boost showing on gauge in park or neutral just builds in driving mode and builds and drops off when it shifts like normal but low.
I’m seeing on my code scanner the cat temp gets up to 1300deg and when sitting it’s like 800ish. I see the 02 sensor voltage fluctuate a lot when i rev it. Not sure what it’s supposed to be. I wouldn’t think an 02 would make a dealer say bad turbo and cause this much issue but the master tech at Sutton told them it was the turbo itself. I just find it hard to think it’s the whole turbo. Feels more like stuck wastgate or clogged cat or something. I have never removed a turbo and I don’t want to mess anything up or throw money at it without knowing for sure what’s wrong. The actuator is like 230$. New cats are 275 I think. And a catless down pipe is 400. Refurbished turbo is 800$ on eBay. Used is 650. Any advise? I feel like if the turbo is bad it wouldn’t spool so quick to 1/4 boost and stop. It’s like an actuator or something flow control is stopping it. The rod ends look fine.
Great video buddy, really helpful,Thanks.
Hi would this work on a VW marine TDI 100-5 turbo? Think its a VTG trubo or is it the same as VGT?
Hey Lars, it should be a similar or identical process - VTG and VGT are different names for the same thing. The turbos themselves aren't made by VW.
Did you had oil leaking in the pipes to ? Thanks in advance
My vgt rod is very difficult to move, it is like it has a spring which pushes it back, is there a way to disconnect something so I could move it to work out the vanes area? Otherwise it is very hard. Thank you
How long does this last I have a golf gt tdi and it’s over boosting around 60mph. Turbo is only 5 yrs old trouble is because egr runs through turbo it builds carbon on it.
wouldn’t it be good too loosen while its hot tho ,,,, works a treat for me and also did my exhaust mani on my fez st150 2006 to date few month ago came off no problem bita heat works a treat
Hi I’ve done this job but went but more into it inlet egr valve cleaning now I’ve unplug all valves ng18 75 other don’t no plugs go on any chance any help can’t wait start car see if improve it
Will this fix fault code p0299 did have p0234 witch has now gone after clear code
Drive your car with gusto once or twice a week, keep your vanes free and clean... don't potter around in diesels like a granny. Aim for 2500rpm regularly keep things clean!
I always do. Even after driving like that i have soot in my boost control solenoid, could somebody help me with diagnostics?
If you clean the throttle egr and manifold then take the car out for a good thrashing it will clean itself out a more fun way to do it
Whenever I sort one at work I always take it hold it at 2500rpm at 25mph for 15-20mins and that always seems to clean out a bunch of soot
This stuff only works on nasty diesels? would it do anything on a petrol turbo?
hi great vid do you know if you can have sticky vanes and not go into limp mode
i have very little power till bout 2.5k then turbo kicks in a little till 3.5k then dies off
iv checked maf sensor n75 valve and boost leak all seems fine
car does not go into limp mode but driving up a hill in 1st and 2nd car just sits bout 1.5k-2k foot planted 2 the floor it just wont rev
i have a 2002 vw mk4 golf tdi pd150
a reply would be awesome thx
Did you ever solve this
@tom rober was yours smoking aswell ?
I have a serious oil leak around turbo would this merhod help
Great video, very descriptive.
I've just got rid of my 320CD and picked up a Volvo V50 as it's a lot more spacious for my fishing kit.
It's got 120K miles on the clock. Would it be worth doing this on it or just leave it for now, until it causes me jip?
Cheers