Hello, nice work. Ok, few days ago I read something interesting in ktm's owners manual: 'The pivot bearing for pds suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing's lifecycle will be reduced dramatically. '
Correct, I think I mentioned that in the video. If I didn't in this one I did in my video for the lower heim joint. If I remember correctly I used aftermarket bearings and couldn't find anything on the packaging mentioning whether or not they were built to oem specs, so I lubed them. I guess in hindsight you would hope that the aftermarket Bearing Company would produce their bearings to match OEM specification and have that Teflon coating. I probably should have left them dry and simply assumed they were built with the same Teflon coating. Thanks for the comment. And thanks for watching
Thanks for the help! I found it easier to give the retaining ring a tap with a centre punch 5mm from its end. It bends the end out so it's easy to get hold of.
@3:24 you should support the upper shock body below where you are hammering on the flat side underneath. There is enough room to knock the bearing down and relieve pressure on that snap ring. After that I supported the shock on the top edge of that to knock the bearing completely free. It relieves pressure on the round part of the shock body and torqueing forces from hammering the bearing out. The XC-F / FX shocks don't have as much room figuring out now how to press the new one in. Cheers
The top eyelet bushing needs to be pressed in and therefore doesn't 'move'. It gets pressed in until you measure it to be centered on the eyelet. Then, two spacers get place over the bushing and the pivot bolts pivots inside the i.d. of these spacers. Is this what you're asking?
The retaining rings might be stock received in the housing of the shock itself. One of the things that might make it easier is pick one side to address first. From that side take a socket that fits past the retaining ring but doesn't fit past the mini heim joint itself and tap on the miniature heim joint in the shock body itself until it moves all the way over to the other retaining ring and bottoms out against it. That'll free up one of the retaining rings so that you can get it out. Then once you have one retaining ring out you can flip the shock body over and using your socket you can pound the upper shock bearing out through that side. Then all you would have left is just one retaining ring to deal with.
Spherical bearing is really bad design from KTM. I would go with ball or needle bearing. (the shock absorber would need to be in the center of swing aarm and frame of course)
Hello, nice work. Ok, few days ago I read something interesting in ktm's owners manual: 'The pivot bearing for pds suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing's lifecycle will be reduced dramatically. '
Correct, I think I mentioned that in the video. If I didn't in this one I did in my video for the lower heim joint. If I remember correctly I used aftermarket bearings and couldn't find anything on the packaging mentioning whether or not they were built to oem specs, so I lubed them. I guess in hindsight you would hope that the aftermarket Bearing Company would produce their bearings to match OEM specification and have that Teflon coating. I probably should have left them dry and simply assumed they were built with the same Teflon coating. Thanks for the comment. And thanks for watching
Nicolas Poirier Yes I tought so , maybe only the original KTM bearings were teflon coated, meaning that’s ok you greased those hehe.
@@NicolasPoirier hey mate do u have a link to the aftermarket bearings ?
@@boblogIIIfan sorry, no I don't. I think I bought them from motosport.com possibly
Thanks for the help! I found it easier to give the retaining ring a tap with a centre punch 5mm from its end. It bends the end out so it's easy to get hold of.
Great tip, thanks
Fucking hero.
@3:24 you should support the upper shock body below where you are hammering on the flat side underneath. There is enough room to knock the bearing down and relieve pressure on that snap ring. After that I supported the shock on the top edge of that to knock the bearing completely free. It relieves pressure on the round part of the shock body and torqueing forces from hammering the bearing out. The XC-F / FX shocks don't have as much room figuring out now how to press the new one in. Cheers
it also makes it easier to tap out as not as much impact goes into the torque forces.
is the top bearing supposed to move? How do you know it's done? Should I take out the spacer and inspect the bearing?
The top eyelet bushing needs to be pressed in and therefore doesn't 'move'. It gets pressed in until you measure it to be centered on the eyelet. Then, two spacers get place over the bushing and the pivot bolts pivots inside the i.d. of these spacers. Is this what you're asking?
@NicolasPoirier thanks!!!!!
Where yaat in VT?
Do they use the same bearing on top and bottom of the shock?
They are different
@@NicolasPoirier alright thank you for letting me know
Thanks for the helpful video. Put your bearings in the freezer and add a little heat to the shock and the bearings should drop right in.
Little tip i just found out while trying to get the clip out , i used a feeler gauge and it came out first try 😮
Thanks I didn't know about the retaining clips. but I do now.
Good video. I'm doing my EXC450 Shock soon and those top bearing clips are a real pain to get out. Cheers from Australia.
AJQuigley thanks I appreciate it. It's cool to know someone from across the globe watched the video
Nicolas Poirier UK here 👍
Can’t get the retaining rings out I’m so pissed of with working on ktm
The retaining rings might be stock received in the housing of the shock itself. One of the things that might make it easier is pick one side to address first. From that side take a socket that fits past the retaining ring but doesn't fit past the mini heim joint itself and tap on the miniature heim joint in the shock body itself until it moves all the way over to the other retaining ring and bottoms out against it. That'll free up one of the retaining rings so that you can get it out. Then once you have one retaining ring out you can flip the shock body over and using your socket you can pound the upper shock bearing out through that side. Then all you would have left is just one retaining ring to deal with.
Thanks for the reply mate I’ll try that
Exactly what I was looking for. Good video!!!
Glad it helped!
@@NicolasPoirier no thank you. Lol. Abs thanks for the sub. It seems like we have simular content. Ill be sure to chrck our your channel some more.
Spherical bearing is really bad design from KTM. I would go with ball or needle bearing. (the shock absorber would need to be in the center of swing aarm and frame of course)
good job man! I always like the improvisation with tool at home! good job.
Awesome video thanks
Super helpful!
Great
Big thanks 😊