You guys always do a fantastic job of showing several methods to complete the repairs; it’s obvious you’re trying to teach not just sell specialty tools. Now get ready to take some of my stimulus money...
Here's a TIP that worked for me. Charles in the video suggests for riders without the tool, using the old race, cut a slit into it and use it to hammer the bottom bearing down the triple clamp shaft. Good luck cutting a slit into the old race! You'll wear out a dozen hacksaw blades before even getting 2mm. That steel is HARD. Instead, I measured my bearing's inner race and found it was exactly 1 1/4 inches. So I went to Home Depot and bought a galvanized 1 1/4 inch pipe about ten inches long, and put a cap on the end of it for hitting with a hammer. Voila! homemade bearing driver. Chiseling the bottom bearing off the bottom triple clamp shaft will likely cause damage so make sure you have a spare to replace it with. Otherwise, just clean and grease it in place.
The way he said to tighten everything up works, but the order recommended by KTM is: 1) Bottom clamp bolts 2) top stem bolt (17mm) 3) stem lock bolt (10mm) 4) top clamp bolts 5) wheel
Exactly! He tightened the top clamp bolts before actually tightening the top nut. I (as a noob mechanic) think that the top clamp needs to stay loose before tightening the top nut, just so it can move freely and so you can properly tighten the headset
I have the Motion Pro tool, and it’s brilliant, I’ve also adapted mine to press fit the new bearing onto the bottom of the stem, as I don’t like the hammering method. I use the old race, no need to cut a slot in it, and it works fine!!
could you guys explain how to deal with a tight upper bearing? if i have to press it on how can i make sure the whole assembly isn’t to tight in the end and turns smoothely from side to side?
If you tighten the tension of the nut, and tighten the safety bolt on the trip triple clamp, but then move the bars back and forth a few times, and the tension disappears what does that indicate? I tightened my steering so it had a ton of drag and then after 5-6 times back and forth it goes loose again. I’ve had the front end off a few times checking everything.
Your best bet is to check the OEM parts finder, or maybe something like eBay if it's not available from the OEM. You can check our OEM parts finder here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
You guys always do a fantastic job of showing several methods to complete the repairs; it’s obvious you’re trying to teach not just sell specialty tools. Now get ready to take some of my stimulus money...
Good video. The tip about using the old inner race would also apply to auto and factory maintenance etc. 👍🏻
Charles is a professional Dude 👏 👌
Here's a TIP that worked for me. Charles in the video suggests for riders without the tool, using the old race, cut a slit into it and use it to hammer the bottom bearing down the triple clamp shaft. Good luck cutting a slit into the old race! You'll wear out a dozen hacksaw blades before even getting 2mm. That steel is HARD. Instead, I measured my bearing's inner race and found it was exactly 1 1/4 inches. So I went to Home Depot and bought a galvanized 1 1/4 inch pipe about ten inches long, and put a cap on the end of it for hitting with a hammer. Voila! homemade bearing driver. Chiseling the bottom bearing off the bottom triple clamp shaft will likely cause damage so make sure you have a spare to replace it with. Otherwise, just clean and grease it in place.
well cutting the old race with a hacksaw isn‘t the best approach. angle grinder with cutting wheel does the job.
The way he said to tighten everything up works, but the order recommended by KTM is:
1) Bottom clamp bolts
2) top stem bolt (17mm)
3) stem lock bolt (10mm)
4) top clamp bolts
5) wheel
Exactly! He tightened the top clamp bolts before actually tightening the top nut. I (as a noob mechanic) think that the top clamp needs to stay loose before tightening the top nut, just so it can move freely and so you can properly tighten the headset
@@DonGH297i did the same now, did you feel a type of vibration after tightning the headset screw, when you turned the forks left and right?
Hi Charles! I think that you are very good at explaining 👍
I have the Motion Pro tool, and it’s brilliant, I’ve also adapted mine to press fit the new bearing onto the bottom of the stem, as I don’t like the hammering method. I use the old race, no need to cut a slot in it, and it works fine!!
Thanks brother from India
Thank you! So helpful
Glad you liked the video and found it helpful! Thanks for watching, and feedback.
Simple way to check play in bearings hold front brake in and compress the forks pushing forwards n backwards
That race remover from tusk is legit tho
Drop the link bro
The first link in the description will take you to a page with all the parts and tools used in this video.
Thank you, would heat be ok to help heat up the lower bearing to come off?
great video
Awesome!!!
Great video!
Mesma montagem da beta 300 2020? O oring vai depois da capa de metal? Ou seja fica abaixo da mesa superior
could you guys explain how to deal with a tight upper bearing? if i have to press it on how can i make sure the whole assembly isn’t to tight in the end and turns smoothely from side to side?
If you tighten the tension of the nut, and tighten the safety bolt on the trip triple clamp, but then move the bars back and forth a few times, and the tension disappears what does that indicate?
I tightened my steering so it had a ton of drag and then after 5-6 times back and forth it goes loose again. I’ve had the front end off a few times checking everything.
How do I find a top cap cover the metal thing I kinda lost mine
Your best bet is to check the OEM parts finder, or maybe something like eBay if it's not available from the OEM. You can check our OEM parts finder here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
My tools just hammer & chisel 😅
Hey if it gets the job done, it works!
Love the cheater tips for us broke asses!
Spring conversion because air forks suckkkkkkkkk